RS Racing RS200 User manual

RS 200
OWNER’S MANUAL
LDC Racing Sailboats, Trafalgar Close, Chandlers Ford, Eastleigh
SO53 4BW, GBR
Tel. [phone] Fax. [phone]
www.RSsailing.com

Introduction
Congratulations on the purchase of your new RS200.
The RS200 was designed by Phil Morrison and launched in the UK at the
beginning of 1996.
Designer Phil Morrison
Length 4.00m 13'0"
Beam 1.83m 6'0"
Sail Area (main & jib) 11.52sq.m. 124sq.ft.
Sail Area (asymmetric) 8.29sq.m. 89sq.ft.
Weight 78Kg 172lbs
Important Note
The RS200 is an exciting boat to sail and offers fantastic performance. It is a light weight racing
dinghy and should be treated with care. In order to get the most enjoyment from your boat and
maintain it in top condition, please read this manual carefully.
Whilst your RS boat has been carefully prepared, it is important that new owners should check that
shackles, knots, mast step bolts etc. are tight. This is especially important when the boat is new, as
travelling can loosen seemingly tight fittings and knots. It is also important to regularly check such
items prior to sailing. Make sure that youhave a basic tool kit with you the first time you rig the boat in
case there are tuning / settings changes that you wish to make.
Index
1 EC Declaration Form page 3 2 Identification page 4
1 Safety Information page 4
2 Rigging and Sailing by Phil Morrison page 10
3 Care and Maintenance by Richard Woof page 24
4 Sail Care Guide by Hyde Sails page 27
5 Racing and Tuning page 28
6 RS Class Association page 30
For further information, spares, accessories, and service, please contact:
LDC Racing Sailboats Trafalgar Close Tel: [phone] Fax: [phone] Chandlers Ford E-mail: [e-mail]
www.ldcracingsailboats.co.uk Eastleigh Hants SO53 4BW

LDC Racing Sailboats Trafalgar Close, Chandlers’ Ford Eastleigh, Hants SO53 4BW England
EC DECLARATION OF CONFORMITY TO DIRECTIVE
2003/44/EC
I declare that the craft described as:
RS200
Bearing the Hull Identification Number:
HIN
Conforms to EU Recreational Craft Directive 2003/44/EC
Annex 1 – sections 3.2 & 3.3 and Annex 6 – Module A
EU Notified body:
No. 0808 (Irish Sailing Assoc.)
Trade Marque:
RS Racing
Type:
RS200
Design Category:
C
Maximum Crew:
3
Maximum load:
225kg
Iso Standards:
ISO 12217
Overall Length
4.00m
Builder Name:
LDC Racing Sailboats, England
Date:
____________________________
Signed:
Name: ______________________
Signature: ___________________

Identification.
Your RS 200 can be identified by two numbers, one is the sail number and the other is the Hull Identification
Number.
The sail number is the number by which you register your RS 200 with insurance companies, the class
association and alsowhen you sign onfor events. Not only is thesailnumber on the mainsail itself; it is also
imprinted on the transom just below the rudder gudgeon.
The Hull Identification Number, or HIN, is required by European law. The Recreational Craft Directive
stipulates that every craft sold in Europe should meet the categories set down by it and display an individual
number to show it meets with these rules. Your RS 200 complies with the RCD to design category C and
hence as a HIN imprinted on the starboard side of the transom.
The HIN is purely for conformity to European regulation, therefore, your RS 200 should be referred to by
its sail number.
3. SAFETY INFORMATION
3.1 Design Category.
The RS 200 is a Design Category C boat. The definition of this category is:
Design Category: C – ‘inshore’
Description of Use: Designed for voyages in costal waters, large bays, estuaries, lakes and rivers.
Wind Force: Up to, and including Beaufort force 6.
Significant Wave Height: up to, and including 2 m.
The RS 200 complies with this design category, subject to:
The crew having suitable skill and experience.
Satisfactory construction and maintenance of the boat and its equipment.
Users of this boat are advised that:
All crew should receive suitable training.
The boat should not carry more than the maximum load.
Any water in the hull should be kept to a minimum.
Stability is reduced by any weight added high up.
3.2 Loading.
The maximum recommended load for the RS 200 is 250 kg and the maximum number of crew it can
carry is two.
The minimum recommended crew weight is 110 kg.

3.3 Safety Equipment.
It is your responsibility to ensure that all necessary safety equipment is obtained for the type of sailing you
are participating in and it is readily accessible on board while the boat is in operation.
3.4 Capsize Recovery.
The capsize is an inevitable part of dinghy sailing and the RS 200 is no exception. The RS 200 is a racing
dinghy and there is a high likelihood that you will capsize if you sail it to its limit. You should practice capsize
recovery when you first sail the boat, ideally in an area where there is some kind of safety patrol to assist you,
should you get into difficulty.
Recovery technique.
Should you capsize your RS 200:
If the asymmetric spinnaker was up, it should be lowered into the chute.
The mainsheet and jib sheet should be uncleated and made sure that it will run freely when the boat is
righted.
The vang should be eased to de-power the top of the mainsail.
One member of the crew should go to the centerboard as quiklyas possible to avoid the boat inverting.
If the boat inverts, it should be pulled onto its side so that the rig is horizontal to the water. This can be done
by standing on the underside of the gunwale and pulling on the centreboard. It sometimes helps to pull it up
with the aid of the wind blowing over the deck and rig.
After that, there are two basic situations to recover from:
When the rig is lying in the water, pointing downwind.
When the rig is lying in the water, pointing upwind.
Both of the following methods will take some practice to enable you to right your RS 200 quickly and
effectively, but they are proven methods to enable you to continue sailing after a capsize.
Rig pointing downwind.
You should be on the centre board, with the asymmetric spinnaker dropped, with the mainsheet, jib sheet
and vang uncleated.
Using the asymmetric spinnaker sheet for extra leverage, pull the boat upright. As the boat gets to about 45
degrees, you should climb in, over the deck or over the transom.
The RS 200 is a relatively stable platform but you should endeavour to get hold of the tiller and gain control as
soon as possible. Once you are in control, you can then sort yourself out, tidy the boat and get sailing again.

Rig pointing upwind.
This is quite often the position the boat ends up in, especially if you have spent time in the water getting the
asymmetric spinnaker down, or recovering from the inverted position.
You should be on the centreboard, with the asymmetric spinnaker dropped, with the mainsheet, jib sheet
and vang uncleated.
As you start toright the boat, the wind will blow under themainsail and help you right it. Depending on the wind
strength will depend on how fast the boat rights, the stronger the wind the faster you will have to move! As the
mast tip leaves the water, you should climb into the boat behind of the shroud, walk across the boat to the new
windward side to prevent it capsizing over again.
Should the boat capsize again, simply climb over on to the centreboard and follow the procedure for the rig
pointing downwind.
3.5 Air Tank.
The RS 200 is equipped with a sealed buoyancy compartment just in case of capsize or swamping. The
buoyancy compartment is formed by the hull and deck mouldings and consequently the following points
should be noted:
Do not puncture the buoyancy compartment.
Should the buoyancy compartment become punctured, do not use the boat until the
compartment is properly repaired. If in any doubt, contact RS Racing for repair details.
It is against class rules to add any fittings; you may have to replace fittings from time to time.
Ensure that all fastenings are resealed properly using an appropriate sealant. If in any doubt, contact
RS Racing for details.
3.6 Man Overboard Prevention and Recovery.
Working deck.
The working deck of the RS 200, which is intended to be occupied only when the boat is afloat, is the
areas covered with a none slip coating. These areas are:
The entire cockpit floor, including kick-blocks centre board case
The top surface and outside edge of the side deck from the shrouds to the transom.
Crew overboard recovery.
The RS 200 is designed to be sailed with two people. It is recommended that you ensure adequate safety
cover is in attendance before launching.
Should both crew overboard, whilst sailing alone, the boat will soon capsize allowing you to swim to it and
follow the righting procedures previously mentioned in this manual.
To recover a crew member from the water:

The helm should bring the boat just downwind of the person in the water.
The helm should balance the boat, using a combination of body weight movement and sail pressure.
The crew should board the boat via the windward gunwale using a combination of the following
handholds: the windward shroud the windward grab rail or over the transom.
Don’t walk over the foredeck.
•
3.7 Use of an Outboard Engine.
The RS 200 is not designed or equipped for use with an outboard engine and is not capable of
modification to be safely used with an outboard engine.
3.8 Towing, Anchoring, Mooring and Trailing.
Towing.
Should it become necessary to tow the RS 200, you should follow the procedure below:
Secure the towing line around the base of the mast. If the mast has failed, secure the line around the
front eye bolt Fully raise the centre board.
Stay at the tiller. In the event of rudder loss, sit well aft.
Anchoring.
The RS 200 is not designed or equipped for anchoring and this should not normally be attempted. You
should remain in control of the boat at all times.
If there is no alternative to anchoring, the anchor line should be secured round the base of the mast (or from
the forward eye bolt) and you should remain in the boat at all times. If the boat must be abandoned when
anchored, it is best left in the capsized position with the rig pointing downwind.
Mooring.
The RS 200 is not designed or equipped for mooring and this should not be attempted. You should
remain in control of the boat at all times when afloat.
Trailing.
When trailing your RS 200 you should only use an approved trolley and road base. Tying down the boat to
its trailer is important because too much or too little tension could result in damage. Follow the instructions
below for safe trailing:
Ensure the boat is located correctly on the trolleyand the bow located in the bowsnubber of the trolley.
Ensure the trolley is properly located on the road base and the retaining pin is fitted.
Tie the boat down to the trailer at the bow and across the middle. You only need to apply sufficient
tension to hold the boat in contact with the trolley supports. Use padding material where any straps touch the
deck.
It is always a good idea to tie the boat down when it is left in the dinghy compound to prevent any damage to
you boat, or any other, in the event of strong winds.

Rigging and Sailing
By Phil Morrison (designer)
Your RS 200 will have been examined and checked both at the factory and by your dealer. The
following is a step by step guide to rigging the boat for the first time and some general advice on
sailing your new RS 200.
Preliminary checks
As delivered the mast may be wrapped for transport please remove the wrapping carefully
and perform some preliminary checks as follows:-
(1) Check that the shroud ‘T’ terminals are correctly seated in their sockets on the mast and
that they are securely attached to the end of the spreaders.
(2) Wrap tape around any sharp edges on the spreaders or brackets to protect the spinnaker.
(3) Attach a short length of shock cord between the shrouds approximately 300mm down from
the top and passing around the jib halyard and forestay this will help prevent the spinnaker being
trapped in the angle formed between the jib halyard and the mast under certain situations.
(4) Check the spreader settings, spreaders should have been pre-set at the factory or by your
dealer but the recommended initial settings are as follows:-Length of spreader measured from the
wall of the mast to the shroud 390mm Distance from a line between the shrouds and the back of the
mast 140mm
(5) The main and jib halyards should be sorted out and dressed neatly down the mast
(7) Dress the spinnaker halyard down the mast in the manner described below
Warning:
The spreader settings recommended are safe general purpose settings. Most people should
not find it necessary to deviate substantialy from these positions. We have deliberately left the
spreaders adjustable in the RS200 to enhance its potential as a racing boat and broaden the range
of competitive sailors. Extreme settings, especially a reduction in the distance from the shrouds to
the back of the mast, may lead to mast failure in strong winds.

Stepping the mast
Before stepping the mast
(1) Check the surroundings for electrical power lines! On no account attempt to step the mast
near electrical power lines or if there are any lines between you and the sailing water!
(2) Check, all sheaves and pulleys rotate freely
(3) Check the shrouds, forestay and halyards for damage or chafe, the spreaders for
alignment and that the spinnaker halyard and Tweaker line move easily.
(4) Fit any racing flag or wind direction indicator to the mast head. It will help if the boat and
launching trolley are off the road trailer base when stepping and un-stepping the mast as this keeps
the boat as low as possible.
Stepping the mast
(1) Check the shrouds and forestay are free and ready to attach and that the mast step in the
boat is clear of ropes and obstructions, the kicking strap rig tension and Cunningham controls should
all be aft of the step
(2) Rotate the mast to the upright position whilst standing beside the boat adjacent to the mast
step.
(3) Try to ensure that the tenon at the base of the mast remains free of sand, grit or stones.
(4) Lift the mast into position. If you are uncertain or there are strong winds it will be helpful if
one crew member stands in the boat just behind the mast step. Be careful to keep forward of the
launching trolley wheels when in the boat.
(5) Ensure that the tenon is fully located, both in the step and between the Spacer and the
rear bolts. It should be a snug fit, any rotational play reduces the efficiency of the spreaders to control
mast bend.
(6) One crew member remains holding the mast.
(7) The other crew member can then attach the shrouds.
For a first setting locate the shrouds 5 holes down on the longer range of
adjusters.
(8) Secure the forestay to the large eye bolt at the bow using at least 3
turns of the lanyard and finally finishing off with 3 or 4 half hitches.
(9) Do not over tension the forestay, a light tension sufficient to prevent the
mast moving around excessively is sufficient.
It is desirable that the forestay has some considerable slack in it once the jib
is hoisted and tensioned. The windward performance of you RS 200 may be
adversely affected if the forestay becomes tight whilst sailing!
(10) Once the mast is stepped and secured, tape all the rigging pins on the
shrouds for extra security and the swage at the bottom of the forestay to
prevent snagging the spinnaker.

The RS 200 mast is fairly light, most people will have little difficulty simply lifting the mast into
place in the mast step as described. If you are short handed, however, it is possible to step the
mast with the shrouds already attached.

Warning:
The forestay on the RS 200 is intended solely to support the mast when ashore without sails
hoisted. Do not attempt to sail the boat without a fully hoisted and tensioned jib. Should the jib fall
down or lose tension for any reason return to shore as quickly as possible sheeting the mainsail only
lightly.
Normally, before lowering the mast:-
(1) Un-reave the spinnaker halyard tail right back to the exit slot in the mast.
(2) Make a large bowline in the fall of the halyard.
(3) Pass the whole of the tail of the halyard through the loop of the bowline.
(4) Keep hold of the bitter end of the halyard tail
(5) Pull on the halyard where it exits from the mast slot, hoisting the bowline up the mast
taking a loop of the tail with it.
(6)When the halyard has got to the end of its travel the end can now be secured at the exit slot
with a couple of half hitches.
(7) Any remainder can be wrapped around the mast or used to secure the shrouds etc.
This method of securing the spinnaker halyard when de-rigging has the
advantages of keeping everything tidy when lowering or stepping the mast.
More importantly it does not require a lot of winding or coiling which helps to
keep the halyard twist and kink free when sailing.
The Sprit is fully rigged and set at the factory but you should see the sections
below, on operating and rigging the Sprit for details of operation.
Reaving the spinnaker halyard
If you have dressed the spinnaker halyard on the mast as recommended above:-
(1) Untie the hitches and pull the halyard down.
(2) Keep the bowline on the end of the halyard and hook it over a handle of the launching
trolley. This is a precaution to ensure the halyard is not inadvertently pulled up the mast, or worse
still, pulled through the top sheave.
(3) Feed the tail of the halyard directly from the exit slot forward through the outer (unsprung)
pulley at the aft end of the sprit tube.
(4) Pass it around the single block attached to the pole launch line, situated toward the front of
the tube.
(5) Pass it back through the fairlead and cleat at the inboard end of the sprit tube.
(6) Pass the rope through a floating pulley, which is connected from the port front toe strap
eye, and the middle control line pulleys. It should be tied so the pulley is fractionally below the cleat
height so the Halyard automatically cleats on the host.
(7) Lead the halyard tail, which is now the downhaul line, directly back to the turning block at
the aft end of the spinnaker sock.
(8) When you attach the spinnaker (see:- Rigging the spinnaker), this line must be fed through
the spinnaker sock to the chute mouth and passthe rope through the first ring on the downhaul patch
and then tied to the second downhaul patch on the spinnaker. A sail batten or stiff wire will help with
this on the first occasion.
(9) Remember to pull the end of the spinnaker sheet or some other rope back through the
sock when you subsequently de-rig in order to facilitate this action in future.
Hoisting the Jib
When using a brand new jib for the first time carefully unroll it in a clean area and hold it out by the
three corners:-
(1) Ensure that the eye in the luff wire at the head is correctly aligned with the attaching tape.
(2) Now whilst applying firm tension to the luff wire make a small lashing at the tack between
the eyelet in the sail and the eye in the luff wire ensuring these are correctly aligned. (You cannot do

this with the jib rolled as this twists the wire relative to the sail.)
(3) Leave the lashing quite slack at this stage you can adjust the tension once the sail is
hoisted and the luff wire correctly tensioned.
(4) Attach the jib sheets, knotting the sheet rope at its centre through the clew cringle.
(5) At the boat, shackle the tack to the same eye bolt as the forestay ensuring the eye in the
luff wire and the sail lashing are correctly aligned fore and aft without any twists.
(6) Shackle the jib halyard to the head of the jib, ensuring the jib or halyard are not twisted.
(7) Tape these two areas generously to prevent snagging the spinnaker.
(8) Hoist the sail by pulling on the jib halyard tail, which exits from a slot just beneath the
gooseneck
(9) Hook the loop of wire which emerges onto the jib halyard tensioning purchase. It may help
to obtain sufficient slack at this point if one crew member pulls firmly forward on the forestay.
(10) Ensure that the tensioning purchase is not twisted or fouling other systems (it should be
the one closest to the mast).
(11) Pull on some rig tension, a generous heave should be sufficient.
(12) Stow the halyard tail in the halyard bag provided.
(13) Check that the forestay now has plenty of slack in it and that the jib is not twisting at the
head. If it is, it may be necessary to lower the sail and turn the wire (undoing the temporary lashing)
at the tack until the sail lies fairly well fore and aft.
(14) Adjust the lashing at the tack so that the tension is just sufficient to remove the wrinkles in
the sail cloth (it may be necessary to redo these adjustments after one or two sails as the jib and luff
wire settle down).
(15) Finally pass the jib sheets through the jib fairleads and finish off with a figure of eight knot
in the usual manner.
(16) If conditions permit cleat the jib to save it flapping and remember never leave any sails
especially the jib and spinnaker flapping unnecessarily as this considerably shortens the life of the
sail.
Rigging the spinnaker
If conditions allow, it is simplest to rig the spinnaker with it partly hoisted and whilst the jib is up.
(1) Identify the three corners of the sail, the tack is close to the sail makers mark and should
be attached to the tack line which is permanently fixed to the end of the Sprit, tie this on with a
bowline.
(2) Next attach the halyard to the head of the spinnaker (the corner with the narrowest angle),
first checking that it is clear of the jib halyard and forestay.
(3) Partially hoist the spinnaker and with the slack thus gained in the halyard/downhaul pull it
out of the chute mouth and pass through the first patch and tie with a bowline on the second patch on
the spinnaker. Remember this line should go directly from the chute mouth to the spinnaker if the
spinnaker is lying on the port side or around in front of the jib luff if the spinnaker is to starboard, it
should not pass inside the jib luff in order to reach the spinnaker.
(4) The spinnaker sheets should be fed under the kicking strap and boom but over the jib
sheets and spinnaker halyard, passing directly across the boat between the ratchet blocks attached
at each shroud anchorage. Take care to ensure that they are threaded the correct waythrough these
ratchet blocks (the arrows indicate the direction of sheeting in, i.e. they should point into the boat).
You can check this by holding the sheet on either side of the block and applying some load to engage
the ratchet whilst moving the sheet back and forth.
(5) Take the ends of the spinnaker sheets and bring them together at the jib luff ensuring that
they pass outside everything to do with the jib and forestay and inside everything to do with the
spinnaker.
(6) Take both sheets to the spinnaker clew (the corner with the greatest angle.....the only one
left!) ensuring one sheet passes around the jib luff and tie them securely making sure they are inside
the downhaul. Keep these knots neat and tape the ends to avoid snagging the downhaul and jib luff
when dropping the spinnaker. A tip is to tie one slightly large bowline to the clew cringle and
tie the second sheet to the loop of that bowline to prevent a large bunch right at the clew.
(7) Finally if conditions permit try the sail on either gybe to ensure everything is rigged

correctly and lower the sail pulling gently on the downhaul and carefully feeding the sail into the chute
making sure it does not snag on the launching trolley handles etc.
(8) Tape everything which may snag a wayward spinnaker.
(9) Whether it was possible to check that the spinnaker was rigged properly whilst ashore or
not; it is good racing practice to make a habit of hoisting the spinnaker and trying a gybe or two prior
to the start of the race anyway.
Hoisting the mainsail
(1) With a brand new sail carefully unroll the sail in the boat or on a clean smooth surface and
ensure the battens are fully inserted into their protectors at the luff and securely tied into the sail. It is
preferable, initially at least, to tie the battens in too tightly rather than too loosely. This helps to
prevent the formation of wrinkles emanating from the battens in use. Other than this the sail is ready
to hoist.
(2) Ensure that the boat is as near as possible head to wind. This is especially important with
fully battened sails as point loads at the end of the batten tend to accelerate the wear on the luff tape
if care is not taken when hoisting and lowering the sail. The use of candle wax or silicon spray in the
luff groove from time to time is highly recommended, this will certainly ease hoisting and prolong the
life of your sail.
(3) Do not attach the boom.
(4) Tie a permanent overhand knot in the end of the halyard for security.
(5) After checking that the halyard is clear attach it to the head of themainsailbytyinganother
overhand knot through the eye in the headboard. A bowline is not recommended as it wastes
distance at the mast head, it is also a weak knot especially when tied in Kevlar.
(6) The exit for the main halyard is positioned on the port side of the mast, when hoisting try to
avoid letting the halyard run through the Clamcleat. Hoist the sail taking care to feed the sail carefully
into the feeder on the luff grove. You will notice that this becomes a little harder just after each batten
as the tension in the sail cloth tries to force the bend into the batten. You will help this situation by
holding the luff rope just below the feeder and pulling it forward of the sail track, this will force bend
into the batten and take the load off the sail where it enters the feeder.
(7) Do not force the sail into the feeder, if it catches ease the sail down a little and then start
again using the technique described above.
(8) When fully hoisted slip the halyard into the Clamcleat and stow the halyard tail in the
stowage bag beneath.
(9) Secure the tack around the mast using the webbing and buckle provided.
(10) Ensure that the Cunningham eye purchase is untwisted and connect this by passing the
knotted end of the single line through the higher cringle in the sail and locating the knot into the short
length of sail track available above the jib exit slot immediately under the gooseneck.
(11)PullfairlyhardontheCunninghamcontrolandrelease,nowpullhardonthemainhalyard
once again and re-cleat, this helps remove stretch in the halyard.
Rigging the boom and mainsheet
(1) Check and adjust if necessary the position of the sliding eye attachments for the central
mainsheet block and kicking strap, ensuring that the latter is very firmly screwed home. These may
be adjusted to suit your personal preferences however the following positions are recommended as
aguide:-mainsheet at 1030 mm and kicker at 420mm, measuredfrom the forward end of the boom to
the centre of the eye.
(2) After sailing your RS 200 in a variety of conditions, and you are satisfied these positions
are correct, a small hole drilled in the underside of the boom track where the slider screw locates will
ensure these fittings do not slip under load.
(3) Attach the kicking strap purchase to the eye on the boom ensuring it runs freely and is
clear of twists.
(4) Reave the mainsheet. Tie a figure of eight knot in one end of the mainsheet then pass the
other end through the fairlead on top of the swivelling mainsheet cleat, through the ratchet block in
the opposite direction to the indicating arrow and up to the central block on the boom. From here feed
the mainsheet through he slot in the underside of the boom until it emerges at the outboard end,

thence through the block at the end of the boom. Finally pass it through the two loops of the centre aft
bridle and tie a simple overhand knot to prevent it pulling back through. (The bridle is adjustable and
works under friction, by pulling the tail or loop the bridle will get longer or shorter, once found the
desired length its worth tying an overhand knot to secure the splice.)
(5) You may wish to tie a further fig.8 knot in the helmsman’s end of the mainsheet, positioned
so that the boom will not hit the shroud with the mainsheet released. this saves wear and tear on the
boom and mainsail and could prevent a broken boom or mast in the event of a capsize in strong
winds.
(6) If not already supplied by your dealer you are recommended to fit a gybing rope as
follows:-tie one end of a piece of rope approx. 900mm long to the centre boom eye and make a
bowline in the other so that the loop encircles but does not restrict the fall of the mainsheet.Thisrope
enables the helmsman to pull the boom over positively in a gybe rather than pulling on the
mainsheet.
(7) Normally the mainsheet and kicking strap may be left permanently attached to the boom
for ease of use.
Fitting the rudder
(1) Fit the tiller extension to theend of the tiller,the flexible joint on theextension locates in the
fitting provided on the tiller and is locked in place by rotating the cover plate.
(2) The tiller extension, as supplied, is certainly long enough for most tastes. If you find the
extension on the long side it is perfectly acceptable to trim it to length by cutting off the outboard end.
(3) Ensure the extension is properly located then wrap tape around the cover plate and tiller
as a precaution against accidental release.
(4) Ensure the down haul line is released and fully raise the rudder blade in the stock.
(5) Adjust the wing nut pressure so that the friction will safely hold the blade up.
(6) Pass the tiller and extension under the mainsheet bridle and slide the rudder assembly
onto the transom fittings.
(7) Check that the rudder retaining clip engages correctly over the lower gudgeon.
(8) Immediately prior to launching ensure the tiller extension is clear of the mainsheet
Attaching the boom
As the boom can be readily attached whilst the mainsail is hoisted, you will find most owners do not
attach the boom until they are just ready to launch and soon release the clew on coming ashore.
You will find this makes the sail a lot more manageable and removes the potential danger from an
uncontrolled boom.
When ready to launch you should attach the boom to the mast and sail as follows:-
(1) Release the outhaul line near the inboard end of the boom so there is about 500mm of line
available at the outboard end.
(2) Slip the inboard end of the boom onto the gooseneck. It will locate with a click, this will stop
the boom coming off during sailing.
(3) From the aft end of the boat maintaining slight forward pressure so that the boom does not
fall off the gooseneck, lift the outboard end of the boom to the clew of the mainsail.
(4) Engage the clew slider into the slot on the top of the boom and pull aft.
(5) Thread the outhaul line through the clew cringle and locate the knotted end in the ‘V’ notch
at the end of the boom.
(6) Tension the outhaul to the desired setting. A setting allowing about 50mm draught in the
foot of the sail will make a good starting point.
Adjusting the centreplate friction
The friction pad which holds the centreboard in position is pre-set at the factory after a few
sails it may be necessary to adjust this setting:-
(1) Whilst the boat is on the launching trolley and trailer base raise the bow of the boat as far
as it will go.
(2) Armed with a good “Posidrive” screwdriver and a short piece of wood or plastic approx. 25

x 5 mm in section get under the boat near the forward end of the centreboard slot gasket.
(3) Insert the piece of wood through the slot in the gasket and rotate it to spread the gasket.
(4) The two screws locating and compressing the centreplate friction pad should be readily
visible
(5) Adjust the friction pad as desired screwing in to increase centreplate friction.
Sailing the RS 200
Your initial perception of the RS 200 will depend to a large extent on your previous dinghy
experience. If you are used to small light weight dinghies then the 200 will hold few surprises.
However, if you are relatively inexperienced and used to the more intrinsically stable kinds of
dinghies found in sailing schools you may find her lively feel a little disconcerting at first. This is
primarilyafunctionofherlowerweightandnarrowerwaterlinerelativetoheroverallbeam.Ifyoufeel
this to be the case, simply avoid sailing in strong winds for the first few sails. You will rapidly become
acclimatised to these characteristics and should quickly begin to appreciate the advantages of
sailing a light responsive racing dinghy. You will notice that although the boat feels lively and
responsive she still remains controllable at all times, provided you provide the correct input of course!
You may find it helpful to remember that helm and crew will need to move about more than in larger
heavier boats. Similarly, that correct steering plays as much a role in keeping the boat upright as
playing the sheets, especially off wind with the spinnaker up. It is just these characteristics that make
the RS 200 the ideal boat to hone those sailing skills and provide the long term excitement and
satisfaction of competing in a challenging racing dinghy.
Prior to leaving the shore make a quick check of the cockpit to ensure that all ropes, sheets, tiller
and extension are clear and free running. If it is light wind or you are likely to spend some time at low
speed insert the bung in the self bailer hole at the back end of the centreplate case.
Remember to lower a little centreplate as soon as possible and fully lower the rudder by pulling on
the downhaul line as soon as you have enough depth of water. Avoid applying a large load to the tiller
when the rudder blade is not fully down as this can put considerable loads on the stock and fittings.
Try to sail theboat away from the beach usingthe sails and heel of the boat to guide her. Once safely
in deep water and clear of other boats tighten the wing nut on the rudder stock if necessary, this
helps to eliminate extraneous movement and maintain a positive feel especially in strong winds.
Don’t forget to slacken the wing nut before coming ashore! As soon as the water is deep enough,
lower the centerboard and secure it with the elastic to prevent it retracting in the event of a total
inversion.
You will find that with the rudderblade fully down the helm should be both light and responsive. If at
any time the helm becomes heavy, suspect that the rudder has lifted and check that it is fully down.
Should you prefer a little more feel to the helm in particular in light weather, then you can of course
deliberately let the rudder come back a small amount. The movement required is very small indeed
and probably best achieved by attaching small packing pieces to the inside of the rudder stock just
below the lower fitting, where the rudder blade touches when fully down.
Sheet in and enjoy your sail. Give yourself and the crew time to get used to the feel of the boat
initially, allow plenty of time for manoeuvres. Check the main sheet and jib sheet cleats are the right
height for ease of operation, the toe straps are adjusted for best sitting out position, you are
comfortable with the tiller extension length. Trya few gentle tacks, you will probably be surprised how
fast she can tack and you may need a little time to get used to pushing the tiller extension in front of
you, Laser style, as you start the tack. Don’t tryto take it round the back, it won’t go! Try some gybes,
in any wind you will find the gybeing line described above most useful for pulling the boom over and
that just the right amount of rudder correction is required coming out of the gybe.
Setting the fore and aft sails
The following are helpful generalisations to guide the relatively inexperienced. Further advise and
information is available in subsequent sections to help you get the bestracing performance from your

RS200.
The jib
Once hoisted and a firm but not ridiculous tension is applied to the rig the only adjustment necessary
is to position the jib fairleads. By and large if the rake has been set up as suggested in ‘stepping the
mast’ then a middle to bottom position should not be far out. The jib has a fairly narrow sheeting
angle and consequently the crewshould be careful not to over sheet the jib. In most conditions the jib
should be set as closely as possible yet allowing the leach to take a slight curve in sympathy with the
shape of the mainsail. There is no hard and fast rule, only practice and experience will find the
correct setting for all conditions. Observation of the telltales will go a long way to helping find the
correct setting.When the jib is correctly set these should all respond pretty well in unison, if you have
difficulty in achieving this then try moving the fairleads a little fore and aft as follows:-
If the top leeward telltale tends to collapse before the others then ease the sheet a little (by little read
1cm or so), if this causes the foot of the jib to get significantly fuller then move the fairleads aft. If the
top windward tell tale tends to lift well before the others then sheet a little harder or if this has little or
no effect then move the fairleads forward. In very light and in strong winds the fairleads should be
moved a hole or so aft of the optimum to encourage the leach to open. The RS 200 is fundamentally
a pointing boat; so even in moderate winds the top windward telltale should lift a fraction before the
others and the boat generally sailed to windward such that all windward tell tales are lifting a little.
The mainsail
To windward in all but the most extreme conditions the mainsail should be sheeted close to the
centreline. To this end the length of the mainsheet bridle should be adjusted in order to optimise this
across the wind range. Adjust the clew outhaul so that it just takes the slack out of the foot of the sail.
Only ease it when off the wind or when looking for that extra bit of power in say moderate winds and
a choppy sea, and then only a little. You may pull it tight once overpowered especially on flat water.
In most conditions sheet the mainsail solely with the mainsheet, the kicking strap should remain
slack and only come into play when the mainsheet is eased or in strong winds. Up until the wind
strength when you are effectively overpowered all of the time use no Cunningham tension at all,
basically sail on the mainsheet constantly adjusting the tension to keep the upper part of the mainsail
correctly sheeted. Use the upper leach telltale to help you determine this. Beware of under sheeting
the mainsail, from experience many people, even experienced hands, who are new to fully battened
mainsails tend to under sheet the sail with a consequent loss in pointing ability. The combination of
large upper roach and modified aerodynamics mean that considerably more tension and less twist is
required for the optimum performance. Obviously it is still possible to overdo it, but be prepared for
the best performance to be when the upper leach telltale spends more of its time collapsed than
flying. As you start to become overpowered, especially in gusty conditions, parry the gust by luffing
slightly and easing the mainsheetfor a moment. If the gusts are particularly viscous or prolonged you
may set the kicker so that it is very lightly tensioned when the sail is sheeted fullyin and comes under
load as the main is eased. This further helps to bend the mast and improves the responsiveness to
the gusts. As the wind increases further to the point where you are almost continuously having to
ease power start to pull some tension on the Cunningham control, bearing in mind that you should
always aim to be slightly overpowered rather than under powered. “Rig for the lulls and not for the
gusts”. You will find that the Cunningham is much more effective in de-powering the fully battened
sail than it is in a conventional soft sail. Use just sufficient kicking strap tension to maintain the
pointing required. Ultimately you may end up with full Cunningham and considerable kicking strap
tension, by now it will be very windy indeed! Don’t forget to ease some kicker before you bear away
or you will put unfair loads on the lower mast. If things deteriorate to survival conditions you will
probably find extra super Cunningham tension and virtually no kicking strap tension to be the easiest
set up to control.
Off wind
Ease the Cunningham away completely. Adjust the kicking strap to the best setting. Due to the
unsupported deck stepped mast, this will have to be a compromise between reducing twist and over

bending the lower mast. If overpowered on a tight reach with the spinnaker set remember to ease
the kicker to allow the upper sail to twist open and spill wind. If trying to survive or
just lay the mark on such a leg don’t forget the Cunningham can be used to
further flatten and de-power the main.
Use of the outhaul will normally be restricted to maximising power on two sail
reaches.
Setting the spinnaker and operating the Sprit
To hoist the spinnaker - ensure the check line knot is clear of the “V” notch alongside the halyard
cleat and pull on the spinnaker halyard until the sprit is fully extended and the halyard is hoisted to
hounds height. Ensure the downhaul line is free to follow the spinnaker out of the chute ( you are not
standing on it). Unless something becomes fouled the sprit should have precedence over the
halyard as it has a 2:1 purchase advantage. Sheet in using the appropriate sheet. Check again that
the halyard/downhaul is not caught and distorting the spinnaker Now treat the spinnaker virtually like
a large jib. As with a jib or a conventional spinnaker for that matter pay attention never to over sheet
the sail. The spinnaker sheets should be played constantly in an attempt to keep the luff of the sail
just on the edge of collapse. With practice at the onset of a gust especially on a tight reach the luff of
the sail can be partially rolled to help keep the boat on a level keel and travelling at her maximum
speed. It is a characteristic of the asymmetric spinnaker that it will develop considerable lee helm at
times particularly if the main has to be eased to any extent. For this reason it should never be
necessary to raise the centreboard when reaching and is perfectly acceptable to sail the boat with a
slight heel to leeward to obtain a neutral helm. The hull shape has been designed with this
consideration in mind.
Gybing
Gybing an asymmetric spinnaker is simplicity itself but as with most manoeuvres there are a few
simple tricks which can help with the efficiency of the process.They are not going to like hearing this
but the helmsman holds the key to a perfect gybe! The speed with which you enter the gybe and the
amount by which you allow the boat to round up after the boom has crossed over affect the success
of the gybe fundamentally. Don’t bear away too quickly. Try to bear away smoothly allowing the
crew sufficient time to adjust the sheets and maintaining speed. In preparing for the gybe the crew
should have released the old jib sheet and set the new one loosely on the windward side then taken
as much slack out of the new spinnaker sheet as possible. The crew should resist the urge to let go
of or ease the old sheet too far. In fact it will help if the crew gives the old sheet a final tug in at the
last moment before the boom goes over and subsequently sheets in smartly on the new sheet.
Coming out of the gybe if the conditions allow the helmsman should permit the boat to round up
sufficiently to fill the spinnaker as quickly as possible before bearing away smoothly to the new
course. Timing is the essence and practice makes perfect.
Lowering the spinnaker - release the halyard and allow to run free then haul quickly and firmly until
the spinnaker is fully recovered into the chute and the pole retracted. It helps avoid bunching and the
downhaul becoming entangled in the sheet knots if the sheet is not released too early in this
process; give it to the helmsman or try standing or sitting on it until the spinnaker is entered into the
chute mouth.
Rigging the Sprit
Internal lines should be rigged as shown on the attached diagram. To set the correct lengths
proceed as follows:-
(1) Tack line - fixed length sufficient to tie to spinnaker
(2) Launch line - should emerge through the slot in the outer tube, pass anti-clockwise around

the adjacent cheek block and tie off to a single block. The length should be such that this block is
fully forward when the pole is retracted (check there is sufficient movement to fully extend the pole).
(3) Tweaker line - comes out of the inboard end of the pole and passes around the inner (sprung)
block and is connected by the clips to the end of the Tweaker line which emerges from the mast just
above the
gooseneck. To ensure the correct lengths the pole should be fully extended and locked out. The
Tweaker line coming from the pole should then be pulled as far as it will go and the clip tied off close
to the sprung block. The Tweaker line and clip from the mast should nowbe tied off tightly so that the
spinnaker halyard is held firmly into the mast at the hounds. Check that with the pole retracted the
spinnaker halyard can go fully up the mast (the clips have sufficient travel between the sprung block
and the mast exit slot) and that with the pole extended there is no significant slack in the Tweaker
line.
(4) Tweaker line take up elastic - this should be tensioned so that the Tweaker line still has as
much tension as possible when the sprit is retracted yet the elastic is never over-stretched when the
Tweaker line is tensioned. Check this by pullingon the Tweaker line and ensuring the internal plastic
ring can travel right to the inboard end of the sprit.
(5) Check line - simply exits from the inboard end of the sprit and outer tube, although it is also
used to attach the end of the take up elastic it is not meant to move so ensure it is knotted both ways.
a further knot should be placed in the Check line so that it can be engaged in the “V” notch in the
base plate to prevent the sprit from going out. The line should be left long enough that the end does
not disappear into the sprit outer tube when the sprit is extended.
Diagram of inner bow sprit workings.
Care and Maintenance
By Richard Woof
There are four key areas of care:

1 Keep your dinghy well drained and ventilated
2 Wash with fresh water (internally and externally) on a regular basis
3 Have damage repaired promptly.
4 Tie your dinghy correctly to the trailer for towing
1. Keep your dinghy well drained and ventilated
All composite structures, no matter what they are made from absorb moisture which increases
weight and under additional circumstances causes cosmetic blistering and raised fibre pattern.
Obviously in dealing with a marine environment, equipment gets wet which in itself is not a problem.
The problem starts when moisture is trapped for any length of time - e.g. a dinghy is left with a PVC
cover on for several weeks, the cover fills with water and pulls the cover tight over the foredeck and
sidedecks, the moisture trapped between the cover and the deck alters in salinity and creates the
start of an osmotic cell. To help avoid this situation a) Ensure the boat is kept at an angle that allows
water to run off the cover and internal water to drain out of tanks and self bailer. b) If using a PVC
cover, make sure it is removed and the boat well ventilated at least once a week. Better still, get a
breathable cover - polycotton, acrylic or cotton duck. c) When using an undercover, make sure the
cover has an opening by the self bailer to prevent water draining from the cockpit and filling the
undercover. Do not leave the undercover on for long periods. d) Trailer cradles should be covered
with a free draining material, in order to prevent an osmotic cell. All recent RS trailers are supplied
with a ribbed rubber cradle liner. If your trailer cradles do not have this, a rubber kit is available
through your RS dealer.
2. Wash with fresh water
Fresh water evaporates far quicker than salt water, so if your dinghy has been sailed in salt water,
don't stop at the sails, fittings and external surfaces, wash the tanks out as well. This is not as daft as
it sounds - all RS tanks are vented and sooner or later water will enter, particularly after prolonged
capsizes. When this happens, drain the tanks and lightly spray a fresh water hose pipe into the tank
to lift off the salt water and then the tank will have a much better chance of drying out.
3. Damage
Hull damage falls into three categories:
a) SERIOUS e.g. large hole, split, crack or worse. Don't be too distressed! Get the remains back to
your RS dealer, most problems can be repaired by the builder.
b) MEDIUM e.g. small hole or split, gel crazing. If this occurs during an event, sailing can often be
continued, as long as leaking can be prevented by drying off the area and applying a strong adhesive
tape. Sail repair tape, duck tape or "denso" tape works well with the ends of the tape cut to a radius
to prevent the corners peeling back. CAUTION - if the damage has occurred on or close to a heavily
loaded point, then a close inspection should be made to ensure joints or laminate are fit for the
prevailing conditions. If in doubt, ask an RS dealer. With this type of damage, get it fixed as soon as
possible at your local RS dealer.
c) S M AL L e.g. chip, scratching. This type of damage is obviously not life threatening but needs to be
attended to, firstly to keep the boat looking good and secondly to prevent water ingress into the
laminate. This type of damage can be rectified by you the owner, if you wish. Buy the correct colour
gel coat repair kit from your RS dealer and either wait for a dry warm day outside or preferably put
your boat in a dry warm place under cover. Start by carefully drying the area to be repaired.
N
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If the damage is a single scratch or score mark, make sure it is clean by gently re-scratching

with the tip of a sharp craft knife. If the damage is more general, etch up with a medium grade
abrasive - say 80 grit (no wet or dry paper because it will leave a grey discoloration). Blow off the
dust, don't wipe; this may leave fluff or contamination which will spoil the quality of the repair. If
your hand is not steady, mask around the prepared area with masking tape (always remove the
tape while the gel coat is liquid)
The gel coat you get from the dealer has a wax additive in it so, when it cures, a tack free surface
is produced. This tack free surface makes final shaping and finishing of the repair easier but also
means that if you have to recoat the repair, the surface should be abraded or solvent wiped to
remove the paraffin wax which helps create the tack free surface.
Stir the tin of gel coat, then decant a small quantity into a suitable container and add 2%
catalyst. As a guide use 2 drops of catalyst (match head size) per full tin lid measure from an RS
gel coat tin. Mix thoroughly and carefully apply to the repair area with a suitable instrument e.g.
artist's brush, cocktail stick, match stick etc.
The speed of cure depends on temperature - on a warm day, the repair will be workable in 1-2
hours, if cooler, it may have to be left overnight. The shaping and finishing is done firstly with a
file or fine abrasive 180 - 240 grit and then rubbing down with wet or dry abrasive 400 grade, then
600 grade, then 800 and finally 1200 grade. Finally polish with a proprietary polishing compound.
4.Tying down your dinghy correctly
Tying your RS dinghy correctly to the trailer is obviously important, but damage can be caused by
tyingdown tootightlyor too loosely. The boats are welllocated on their trailers and it istherefore only
necessary to apply sufficient tension to hold the boat in contact with the cradles or keel and gunwale
support. Tying the boat too loosely will allow it to move around on its supports, running the risk of
scuffing the hull, but too tightly and there is a risk of structural damage. Do not use ratchet straps
unless they are used very gently.

Sail Care Guide
By Hyde Sails
Good racing sails today are expensive items, yet itis surprising how many people are prepared to
neglect or mistreat them. The rules for correct sail care are easy and simple to implement.
1. The jib and mainsail should be stored dry, out of direct sunlight when not in use (Ultra-Violet light
damages sailcloth), and rolled:
* Ensure there are no folds in the cloth as you roll the sail.
* If you do have a fold or crease, unroll the sail and let the crease drop out. DO NOT PULL IT
OUT!! This action can tear sailcloth.
1 Asymmetric spinnakers should be stored dry and loose if possible, do not leave them in the
chute with the corners hanging out! Do not dry spinnakers by allowing them to flap in the wind.
2 When using brand new sails for the first time, try to ensure that the conditions are not too
extreme because the high loads on new sailcloth can diminish the racing life of the sail. This
particularly applies to the Hard Dacron jib, which may get a lot of those 'Little white score marks'. Do
not allow sails to flap unnecessarily. Where possible, take sails down between races and as soon as
possible after sailing.
3 If your sail is stained in any way, try to remove it using normal detergent and warm water. Do
not attempt to launder the sail yourself.
1 Repairs should be temporarily fixed using sticky number cloth or sail repair tape and then
returned to a sail maker for a professional repair.
2 Check the batten tension regularly, slack battens can work their way out of the luff retaining
caps and damage the sailcloth. The battens should be tensioned enough in the pockets so that when
the boat is sailing there are no wrinkles in the batten pockets.Watch out for wear and tear, especially
around the batten pockets and bolt rope.
3 Make sure that all shackles, pins and sharp objects that the spinnaker might travel over are
well taped (preferably using PVC tape). Un-taped shackles or frayed wires are the most common
cause of major tears in spinnakers.