Rytan RY100 User manual

RY39 Auxiliary Lamp
Kit is an Extra Cost
Accessory
Rytan Model RY100 Semi-Automatic Key Duplicating Machine for
O P E R A T O R ’ S M A N U A L
Rytan Products Are Designed and Manufactured in the U.S.A.
RYTAN, INC. RESERVES THE RIGHT TO MAKE CHANGES WITHOUT NOTICE. PRICES MAY VARY FROM YOUR DISTRIBUTOR
1648 W. 134th St. — Gardena, CA 90249 U.S.A. [phone] FAX [phone]
M o d e l R Y 1 0 0
RY101 Wire Brush
Kit is an Extra Cost
RY39 Auxiliary Lamp
Kit is an Extra Cost
READ AND UNDERSTAND THIS OPERATOR’S MANUAL AND BECOME
FAMILIAR WITH YOUR NEW MACHINE BEFORE YOU START CUTTING KEYS

TABLE OF CONTENTS
1. INTRODUCTION………………………………………………………………………………………… 4
2. GETTING STARTED……………………………………………………………………………………. 4
3. SAFETY RULES………………………………………………………………………………………….4
4. MOUNTING THE MACHINE…………………………………………………………………………… 5
5. CUTING STANDARD KEYS…………………………...………………………………………………. 6
6. CUTTING DEEP CUTS………………………………………………………………………………… 6
7. VISE JAWS……………………………………………………………………………………………….7
8. TOP SHOULDER GAUGING……………………………………………….………………………….10
9. CLAMPING KEYS………………………………………………………….……………………………10
10. TIP GAUGING………………………………………………………………..………………………….13
11. RELEASING THE CARRIAGE……………………………………………..………………………….13
12. CUTTER SHAFT LOCK……………………………………………………..………………………….14
13. REMOVING/REPLACING CUTTER…………………………………………..………………………15
14. DEPTH ADJUSTMENT……………………………………………………..…………………………..15
15. SPACE ADJUSTMENT………………………………………………………..………………………..18
16. KEY GAUGE ADJUSTMENT…………………………………………………...………………………21
17. CARRIAGE OVER TRAVEL ADJ…………………………………………...………………………….22
18. MAINTENANCE…………………………………………………………………...……………………..23
19. TROUBLESHOOTING………………………………………………………...………………………...25
20. CUSTOMER INFORMATION………………………………………………...………………………...30
21. WARRANTY………………………………………………………………...…………………………….31
22. PARTS BREAKDOWN………………………………………………..………………………………...32
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1. INTRODUCTION
Thank you for purchasing our American Made, Rytan, Inc., Model RY100, universal key duplicating machine.
Your new key machine has been designed and built with heavy-duty components designed for the most de-
manding shop and service vehicle use. As you become familiar with your new machine you will find a new ease
and confidence in key cutting. Discover the smooth and natural interaction between machine and operator, re-
sulting from careful design and placement of the operating controls. We are confident you will profit greatly from
this quality built versatile key machine.
Your new RY100 key duplicating machine is made similar to the RY256 RAMM semi-automatic key machine,
but with one exception: Stylus and Cutter Head cannot be rotated to cut Medeco Level-1 high security keys.
Use your machine to cut standard cylinder keys and U.S. and Foreign automobile keys. Install an optional
RY111 Flat Slotter Kit and duplicate Flat Safe Deposit Keys.
2. GETTING STARTED
Please take time now to read and understand this manual thoroughly before you start cutting keys. Maintain
this owner’s manual and review it often, and make it available to others who will use this machine.
Do not attempt to operate this machine until you have read thoroughly and understand completely
all instructions, rules, etc. contained in this manual. Failure to comply can result in accidents involving
fire, electric shock, or serious personal injury.
3. SAFETY RULES
A. Know your machine. Read the owner’s manual carefully. Learn its applications and limitations as
well as specific operational hazards peculiar to this machine.
B. Guard against electrical shock by preventing body contact with grounded surfaces. Examples:
Pipes and metal work tops.
C. Keep guards in place at all times.
D. Keep your work area clean. Cluttered areas and benches invite accidents.
E. Avoid dangerous environment. Don’t use this machine in damp or wet locations. Keep your work
area well lit.
F. Keep children away. All visitors should be kept a safe distance from work area. Do not let visitors
contact machine or power cord.
G. Do not force the machine. It will do the job better and safer at the rate for which it was designed.
Always maintain a sharp cutter wheel on the machine.
H. Use the machine for what it was designed. Don’t use the machine for anything but the key blanks
for which it was intended. Cutting steel keys is not recommended.
I. Wear proper apparel. For example: No loose clothing or jewelry to get caught in moving parts.
Operators without properly restrained long hair MUST NOT operate any type of machinery,
Including key machines. Long hair can get caught in moving (rotating) machinery parts.
J. Use safety glasses. Flying chips, improperly secured key blanks and broken cutter wheel teeth
can injure the eye if not properly protected.
K. Don’t abuse cord. Never yank cord to disconnect from receptacle. Keep cord from heat, oil and sharp
edges. Never remove the ground connection from the plug. If you use a two wore adapter be sure to
properly connect the ground wire. NEVER CUT OFF THE GROUND TERMINAL FROM THE
MACHINE’S POWER PLUG!
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L. Secure keys properly in vises. Don’t hold key head for support when cutting. If it doesn’t clamp
properly, don’t try to cut it!
M. Maintain a sharp cutter wheel. A dull cutter wheel is not only inefficient but dangerous. A dull cutter
wheel can produce excessive cutting force on a key blank and exceed the machine’s vise jaws clamping
force to a point where the key blank could be ripped out of the machine.
N. Disconnect machine. When not in use, during servicing, or when changing cutter wheel and accessory
brush always disconnect the machine form its electrical power source.
O. Remove servicing wrenches. Remove all service tools from the machine before turning it on.
P. Always turn off machine. After cutting a key, turn off the machine before removing a cut key and
clamping another fresh blank.
Q. Always lock carriage back. After cutting a key, turn off the machine and lock the carriage back to
prevent accident or injury.
R. Outdoor use. When machine is used outdoors, use only extension cords suitable for outdoors and
that have a built-in third wire and ground terminal. NEVER CUT OFF THE GROUND TERMINAL
FROM THE MACHINE’S POWER PLUG!
S. Keep hands away from cutter and key blank. Keep hands away from rotating cutter. Do not
reach underneath or around cutter or key blank when cutter is rotating. Do not attempt to remove
key blank or key blank material while cutter is rotating.
T. Never use machine in an explosive atmosphere. For example, if your machine is in a service vehicle
with a fuel leak or spill, switching on the machine could ignite the fumes.
NOTE: A FLAMMABLE SOLVENT SPILL IN YOUR SHOP OR VAN IS EQUALLY DANGEROUS!
U. Inspect machine cord periodically. If damaged, repair at once.
V. Keep hands dry, clean and free from oil and grease.
W. Stay alert. Watch what you are doing and use common sense. Do not operate machine when you are tired.
X. Do not use machine if switch does not turn the machine ON and OFF.
Y. Drugs, Alcohol, Medication. Do not operate machine while under the influence of drugs, alcohol,
or any medication.
Z. The operation of any key machine can result in foreign objects being thrown into the eyes, which can
result in severe eye damage. Always wear safety glasses or eye shields before commencing key
machine operation. We recommend wide vision safety mask for use over spectacles or standard
safety glasses.
AA. Save these instructions.
4. MOUNTING THE MACHINE
Drill two oversized ½” holes in your bench top to mount the machine. Use ½” – 13 bolts from your local hardware
store. Carefully turn the machine up-side-down and measure the spacing of the two tapped holes on the bottom
of your machine (be careful not to set the machine on the power switch). Turn the machine right-side-up and
place the machine where you want it on your work bench. Mark the bench and drill your holes.

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This is the “step” side of
the top jaw. Flip over
and use this side down
when cutting very deep
cuts in small keys such
as padlock and General
Motors.
You want the top “step”
jaw tight against the
surface on the bottom
jaw when you tighten
the knurled knob to
secure the top jaw in
place.
Fig. 1 Fig. 1A
Quick-Change
Step Vise Jaw
Quick-Change Step
Vise Jaw
5. CUTTING STANDARD KEYS
A. Most key clamping requirements use the standard top jaw configuration. Top jaw can be flipped
over for “step” jaw requirements -to make deeper cuts in small keys.
B. Keys are always gauged with the full-function flip-up key gauges. We do not recommend bottom
shoulder gauging because key blank manufacturers do not always maintain a reliable correlation
between bottom and top shoulder positions on the key blanks they make.
C. Always remember to flip down your key gauges before cutting a key. Failure to do so may damage
the key gauge and key gauge shaft with the cutter wheel.
D. Always cut keys from Bow-to-Tip. NEVER MAKE YOUR FIRST CUT FROM TIP-TO-BOW.
The RY100 is specifically designed to cut most cylinder keys and U.S. and Foreign automotive keys by
operating the machine’s “stick-shift” lever SMOOTHLY from Right-to-Left. The key will be cut properly
starting at the Bow and ending at the tip of the key. It is O.K. to make a “cleanup” cut back to the bow
of the key ONLY after the key has already been cut.
NOTE: If an excessive amount of key blank material is removed on the cleanup cut (second cut) your
cutter may need replacing or re-sharpening.
6. CUTTING DEEP CUTS IN SMALL KEYS
A. Most key clamping requirements use the standard top jaw configuration. If you are making deep cuts
in small keys you may have to use the “step” top configuration. You must flip over both left and right
top vise jaws and clamp them in place with the large knurled knobs located below the painted key
clamping knobs.
Make sure your vise jaws are clean (no chips in the way) and as you secure the top vise jaw in the
“step” jaw configuration -be sure to push the back edge of the step top jaw firmly, flat, and parallel
against the stepped face of the bottom vise jaw when tightening the large knurled knob located below
the painted key clamp knob. See figure 1 & 1A.
When claming keys in the “step” jaws be sure to open the jaws ONLY enough to slide the key in place so it will
be clamped against the top vise jaw’s “step” Opening the vise jaw too wide will allow the key to pass under the
step part of the top jaw and the key will be clamped improperly.
Please see below for more Vise Jaw information.

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Step Jaw
Not Used
Step
Jaw
Standard Top Jaw Configuration for Step Top Jaw Configuration for
Fig. 2 Fig. 2A
A. Keys are always gauged with the full-function flip-up key gauges.
B. Always remember to Flip Down your key gauges before cutting a key. Failure to do so may damage
the key gauge and key gauge shaft with the cutter wheel.
C. Switch ON your machine and gently release the carriage and operate the “stick-shift” lever until the
stylus is right over the left edge of the first cut closest to the bow of the key. Ease up on the
carriage and manipulate the carriage controls to make a smooth gentle cut down the left edge of
the “V” cut in the key to the tip cutting all cuts on the key.
D. You may want to reverse the carriage and make a “clean-up” cut back to the bow of the key.
E. Lock back your carriage. Turn OFF the machine.
NOTE: CUTTING STEEL KEYS IS NOT RECOMMENDED.
Cutting steel keys will accelerate cutter wear. Some steel keys will ruin your cutter wheel with just one pass.
NOTE: Some automotive presentation keys are made of Hardened Steel and can ruin the cutter wheel I
instantly! Don’t be fooled by the decorative Gold, Brass, or Silver plating on these keys.
Suggestion: Keep a small magnet near your key machine to identify steel keys. Before cutting a steel
key try filing a small groove where one of the deeper cuts will be made –if the key won’t file easily it
won’t cut any better in your key machine and will most likely ruin your cutter!
7. VISE JAWS
Choosing the correct upper vise jaw. For most key cutting work the upper jaw can remain in the
standard configuration. In the standard configuration the entire “throat” of the bottom and top jaws
is used. Measuring from the front faces of the top and bottom vise jaws and into the throat of the
jaws –you will measure .142”. This throat dimension of .142” is how much of the key is consumed
by the vise jaws when the key is clamped. Most keys are rarely cut deeper than .142” from the back
edge of the key blade.
Some padlock keys and some General Motors keys have cuts deeper than .142” from the back edge
of the key blade. For these keys you have two choices to clamp the keys.
A. The old-fashion way. Use a pair of round wire shims made from Music Wire about .037” diameter and 1-1/2
long. Place a wire shim in each vise jaw against the back edge and lay the key in front of the shim –effec-
tively pushing the key out of the vise jaws and clamping on the remaining .105” of the key.
B. The modern “step” jaw way. Loosen the knurled knob securing the top vise jaw in place and flip
the top jaw over to the step jaw side. Retighten the knurled knob securing the top vise jaw.
You must do both vise jaws for this to work. See figure 2 & 2A.

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By opening the vise jaws just enough to slide the key in you will be making the key lay right in front of
the step portion of the top vise jaw - effectively pushing the key out of the vise jaws and clamping
on the remaining .105” of the key.
CHANGING THE TOP VISE JAW
To change the top vise jaw unscrew the painted key clamping knob a few turns. Unscrew the large knurled
knob located below the painted key clamping knob a few turns. Slide out the top vise jaw. Look for key cutting
chips and brush them away before reinstalling the top vise jaw. Reinstall the top vise jaw in the reverse order.
NOTE: When reinstalling the top vise jaw you should push on the face of the top vise jaw and hold it firmly
against the vertical step on the bottom vise jaw. By doing this you will insure that the top vise jaw is installed
perfectly parallel to the bottom vise jaw. This is especially important when using the face of the top vise jaw as
reference surface when cutting keys like Ford double-sided and when using the step jaw - especially when cut-
ting Medeco keys on a Rytan RY256 RAMM key duplicating machine for standard and Medeco keys.
Always change both vise jaws to standard or the step jaw configuration. If you change only one –your depth of
cut will be off either plus .037” or minus .037”.
Check the knurled knobs securing the top vise jaws for tightness often and recheck the parallelism of the top
vise jaws - especially when using the step vise jaw configuration and when cutting key such as Ford double-
sided.
TOP VISE JAW REPLACEMENT
Either top vise jaw may be replaced at any time –you do not have to buy top vise jaws in pairs or sets. Inspect
your top vise jaws for uneven clamping and referencing surfaces. Replace when jaws appear worn. Accelerat-
ed wear occurs when you clamp double-sided steel keys such as Volkswagen. Clamping pre 1984- ½ Ford dou-
ble-sided keys too far to the right into the vise jaws causes wear to the left edges of both top and bottom vise
jaws. The damage is due to the “wedged” shaped milling of these keys as you approach the bow of the key.
See figure 3.
BOTTOM VISE JAW REPLACEMENT
Remove the top vise jaws. The bottom vise jaws are secured by two #10-32 x ½ long socket head cap screws.
Use a 5/32” Allen hex wrench to remove the screws. If you have difficulty accessing the bottom screw you may
remove the top plate. #6 –32 x ¼” long socket head cap screws.
To remove the top plate you must first remove the key clamping knob assembly with the 3-piece radial thrust
bearing and the knurled knob. Use a 7/64” Allen hex wrench to remove four #6 – 32 x ¼” long socket head cap
screws. See figure 4.
Remove bottom vise jaw from 1” diameter plunger. Wipe plunger and carriage surfaces clean with a lint-free rag
or paper towel. Bolt a new bottom vise jaw onto the plunger, loosely - do not tighten the two screws at this time.
Use Sta-Lube Super White Multi-Purpose Grease (available in Auto Parts Stores). This is a Lithium grease,
Grade 2, 350 °F water resistant lubricant.
Coat all steel sliding surfaces (back side of bottom vise jaw and plunger and all aluminum mating surfaces on
the carriage). Also apply this grease to the 3/8” threaded hole in the plunger.
Gently slide the bottom vise jaw and plunger assembly into the carriage from the top. Snug up the two screws
securing the bottom vise jaw and check that the assembly slides up and down in the carriage –do not tighten
the two screws at this time.

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8. TOP SHOULDER KEY GAUGING
Standard cylinder keys should always be top shoulder gauged. Use the machine’s full-function flip-up key gaug-
es. We do not recommend bottom shoulder gauging because key blank manufacturers do not always maintain
a reliable correlation between bottom and top shoulder positions on the key blanks they make. See figure 5.
Always remember to flip DOWN your key gauges before cutting a key. Failure to do so may damage the key
gauge and the key gauge shaft with the cutter wheel.
9. CLAMPING KEYS
Open the vise jaws only wide enough to slide the key in. With the key in all the way into the “throat” of the vise
jaws - put your index finger against the key blade as shown below and with moderate force against the key in to
the vise jaw gently slide the key left and right a few times (about 1/8” will do) to “seat” the key into the vise jaws.
With the bottom shoulder of a standard cylinder key about 1/32” away from the edge of the vise jaws CLAMP
the key with the key clamp knob –still pressing against the blade of the key with your finger as you tighten the
key clamp knob. See figure 6.
Fig. 5
LEAVE ABOUT 1/32”
GAP BETWEEN
BOTTOM SHOULDER
Leave about 1/32”
gap Between
bottom Shoulder of
key and left Edge
RIGHT VISE
Fig. 6

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Top Vise Jaw
Replacement
TOP PLATE
INDEX MARK
Knurled
Knob
Fig. 3 Fig. 4
Reinstall the top plate with the (4) #6 –32 x ½” screws flush with the top of the top plate -but do not tighten
the four screws at this time. Remember to reinstall the top plate with its INDEX MARK in the same location
as illustrated here.
With your hand hold the top vise jaw on top of the top plate and at the same time raise up the bottom vise
jaw so the two vise jaw parts engage each other as if they were clamping a key. With your other hand grab
the edges of the top plate and pull it back until it contacts the short tabs on the open “horseshoe” end of the
top vise jaw - you want to take up as much of the slack between the top and bottom vise jaws as you can.
NOW tighten the four #6 –32 screws with your 7/64” Allen hex wrench – readjust if necessary to get a good
fit.
You may now reinstall the knurled knob, 3-piece redial thrust bearing (please clean it first) and key clamp
knob assembly - you may secure the top vise jaw in place with the knurled knob at this time.
You will secure the bottom vise jaw now. Before tightening the two #10 –32 screws - use the key clamp
knob to close the vise jaws together with moderate force without a key. NOW tighten the two #10 –32
screws with your 5/32” Allen hex wrench. Loosen the key clamp knob a few turns and push down on it to
open the vise jaws. You have created a matched pair of vises on your key machine that are about as good
as they were when the machine was new.

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When both keys have been properly gauged and clamped in the vise jaws REMEMBER to flip down the
full-function key gauges before attempting to cut the key. Failure to flip down the key gauges may damage
the key gauge and key gauge shaft with the cutter wheel. See figure 7.
KEY CLAMPING . . . (Ford double-sided keys)
Keys such as Ford double-sided ignition and door do not have a top shoulder to gauge from.
Open the vise jaws ONLY enough to slide in the thinnest part of the key. Slide in the key blank and
allow the full thickness “ridge” of the key to contact the face of the vise jaw.
Clamp the key into the vise jaws so that its cuts are approximately centered in the vise jaws.
Ignition key “ridge” will contact the face of the TOP vise jaw. See figure 8.
Fig. 7
LEFT VISE JAW
Fig. 8
Ridge of key must
contact face of top
vise jaw. Open vise
jaws ONLY enough
to allow thinnest
section of key blade
IGNITION KEY
STANDARD TOP JAW
CONFIGURATION

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Door and trunk key “ridge” will contact the face of the BOTTOM vise jaw. See figure 9.
Operate the full-function key gauges by rotating the key gauge shaft toward you - then push to the right
on the key gauge shaft while continuing to rotate the key gauge until the key gauge aligns itself with the
tip of the key. See figure 10.
Fig. 10
Always remember to flip DOWN your key gauges before cutting a key. Failure to do so may damage
the key gauge and key gauge shaft with the cutter wheel.
PUSH
ALIGN TOP JAW
TO BOTTOM JAW
Ridge of key must
contact face of
bottom vise jaw.
Open vise jaws
ONLY enough to
allow thinnest sec-
DOOR KEY
Fig. 9
STANDARD TOP JAW

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10. BEST AND FALCON (BEHIND THE TIP) KEY GAUGING
These keys must be gauged from a “tip” location that is behind the actual tip of the key. Position the key
in the vise so that the “tip” edge of the key is about 1/32” (or less) from the right edge of the vise
jaws. Operate the full –function key gauges by rotating the key gauge shaft toward you - then push to the
right on the key gauge shaft while continuing to rotate the key gauge shaft until the key gauge slides past
the actual tip of the key. Slowly release the key gauge shaft and allow the key gauge to rest on the
“tip” location that is behind the actual tip of the key (see illustration in circle). See figure 11 and figure 12.
Fig. 11
Fig. 12
Always remember to flip DOWN your key gauges before cutting a key. Failure to do so may damage t
he key gauge and key gauge shaft with the cutter wheel.
11. RELEASING THE CARRIAGE
For safety reasons - releasing the carriage requires two actions. With your right hand, push down gently
on the carriage’s large “teardrop” knob just enough to move the carriage down a small distance.
While holding the carriage down reach around with your thumb and index finger and grasp the small
round black knob and pull it out and hold it there. When the small round black knob is pulled out - gently
lift up on the carriage a small distance and THEN let go of the small round black knob and
continue positioning the carriage where you want it to be (you will want to move the carriage to the
beginning of the first cut nearest the bow of the key).
NOTE: You will not be able to pull the small black knob by itself to release the carriage. You are required to
push down on the carriage first –then pull out the small black knob to release the carriage. See figure 13.

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Fig. 13
ALWAYS REMEMBER to flip down your key gauges before cutting a key. Failure to do so may damage the
key gauge and key gauge shaft with the cutter wheel.
PLEASE. . . DON’T FORGET to turn off your key machine before removing a cut key and reloading another key
blank.
LOCK THE CARRIAGE BACK (after cutting a key)
Push DOWN on the carriage’s large “teardrop” knob until the carriage “clicks” into the locked position.
SWITCH “ON” YOUR MACHINE
The power switch is located at the lower right, front of the machine. See figure 14.
Fig.14
To switch ON push the switch DOWN.
To switch OFF pull the switch UP.
12.CUTTER SHAFT LOCK
To remove the cutter you must lock the cutter and cutter shaft in position before using a wrench to
remove the cutter.
Power Switch

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Press DOWN firmly on the cutter shaft lock. While holding the lever down - rotate the cutter by hand
until the cutter shaft lock “clicks” in to position. When turning the cutter by hand there is only ONE
locking position to be found. Once the cutter shaft lock is fully depressed - Hold it There. You may
now proceed with removing the cutter shaft lock nut and the cutter.
PLEASE . . . DON’T FORGET to pull UP on the cutter shaft lock when you are finished reinstalling the
cutter wheel. Pulling UP on the cutter shaft lock releases the cutter and the cutter shaft from the locked posi-
tion. Failure to unlock the cutter when attempting to cut a key may result in no rotation of the cutter. Please
note - the motor may be powerful enough to slip the belt and permanently damage it by wearing
a flat spot on the belt.
13. REMOVING/REPLACING THE CUTTER
REMOVING THE CUTTER
The cutter wheel is secured to the cutter shaft with a LEFT-HAND NUT. You must turn the nut to the
RIGHT (facing the cutter wheel) to remove it. See figure 15.
Fig. 15
Use a 1” open-end or hex wrench to remove the Left-Hand Nut.
REPLACING THE CUTTER
Before your replace the cutter - clean off any cuttings from the cutter shaft with a clean rag. Apply a small of
white grease to the cutter shaft face, shank, and threads before installing the cutter wheel and Left-Hand Nut.
DON’T OVERTIGHTEN the cutter wheel nut - The Left-Hand Nut is self tightening as you use it.
Over tightening the cutter wheel nut may make it harder to remove later and may result in damaging t
he cutter shaft lock or cutter pulley later when you remove the cutter at a later date.
14. DEPTH ADJUSTMENT
Depth is adjusted at the back end of the stylus. See figure 16.

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Fig. 16
To adjust the depth you will need:
5/32” Allen Hex Wrench
Piece of writing paper cut to approximately 1” x 4”
Two identical key blanks-measure blade width with micrometer or calipers and select two that match.
To begin the adjustment you must loosen the two #10-32 Screws. Use your 5/32” Allen Hex Wrench
to loosen the two screws about 1 turn each.
Before you begin please make sure that both top vise jaws are in the standard configuration. See figure 17
below.
Fig.17
Depth is adjusted by moving the stylus forward or backward by means of a knurled adjustment knob located
at the back of the stylus. The adjustment is secured by two #10-32 Allen Socket Head Cap Screws located
on the top of the stylus holder.
Depth Adjust- Cutter Shaft Lock
Power Switch
TOP JAW STANDARD
CONFIGURATION

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To begin the adjustment you must loosen the two #10-32 Screws. Use your 5/32” Allen Hex Nut Wrench to
loosen the two screws about 1 turn each.
Use your hand to turn the knurled thumb-turn adjustment knob about 1 full turn - viewed from the front of the
machine you will turn the knob to your LEFT.
Secure the two matched key blanks - one in each vise jaw. Please note: Clamp the keys into the vise jaws
with about 1/32” gap between the bottom shoulder of the key and the left-side edge of the vise jaws. DO NOT
bottom shoulder the keys into the vises - there may be a small radius in the corner of the key blank’s blade and
the bottom shoulder area. Clamping in this area may ANGLE the key blank in the vise and throw off your ad-
justment.
With the keys clamped in the vises and with the stylus adjusted forward about 1 turn - carefully release the car-
riage and position it so the key in the left vise jaw LIGHTLY contacts the stylus about in the middle of the key
blank’s blade.
Observe that the cutter wheel missed the key blank in the right vise by carefully turning the cutter BACK-
WARDS by hand - the cutter teeth should miss the key blank blade. The reason for turning the cutter back-
wards is to prevent any cutter teeth from removing material off the key blank’s blade before you make your ad-
justments. Turning the cutter backwards will bump the key blank without cutting it - if the stylus was not adjust-
ed forward enough to miss the key blank.
Upon verifying that the cutter wheel misses the key blank –you may switch ON your key machine.
Take the 1” x 4” piece of writing paper you made earlier and hold one end of it between the spinning cutter
wheel and the blade of the key blank.
Use your hand to slowly and carefully back off on the knurled adjustment knob –at the same time we recom-
mend that you slowly move the 1” x 4” piece of paper from side to side along the blade of the key blank to as-
sist you in detecting when the cutter wheel’s teeth first contact the paper. When the cutter wheel first contacts
the paper the paper will be shaved almost without any sound –you must back off the stylus very slowly for this
to work.
NOTE: Use the knurled knob as a “clock” to measure how much you are moving the stylus. One full turn of the
knurled knob is about .035” (35 thousandths). There are about 80 knurls around the edge of the knob. 1 knurl
is less than ¼ thousandth of an inch. 10 knurls is a little over 4 thousandths (.004”).
Backing off the stylus in 1/8 turn increments will speed up the process considerably, 10 knurls at a time –sliding
the piece of paper across the front of the cutter wheel after each 1/8 turn will establish a simple routing and
make the job less tedious to perform.
Once you have the cutter wheel touching the paper you may slow down the procedure to very small increments,
1 knurl at a time - each time moving the piece of paper from side to side in front of the spinning cutter wheel.
Stop when the piece of paper is cut through to the last few fibers. You have now accurately adjusted the depth
of cut on your key machine.
Tighten the two #10-32 Screws with your 5/32” Allen Hex Wrench – moderate tightness should be enough. See
figure 18.
Verify that tightening the two screws did not alter the adjustment by switching ON the machine and verifying that
the cutter wheel just “ticks” the blade of the key blank. We recommend moving the machine’s “stick-shift” lever
very slightly to the right –and at the same time listening to the cutter wheel for the very faint “ticking” sound of
the cutter wheel teeth barely grazing the key blank. DO NOT go back and forth over the same spot! If you use
the same spot more than once your stylus will burnish a spot on the key blank that is ever so slightly lower than
the rest of the key blank.
Switch OFF the key machine.

-18-
Fig. 18
15. SPACE ADJUSTMENT
Never adjust the spacing without first adjusting DEPTH. If the depth adjustment is not right - then spacing
will not be right. See #14 above for depth adjustment.
Spacing is adjusted by moving the cutter wheel and its cutter shaft assembly left or right. The cutter shaft
assembly is secured tot he machine’s main housing by two #10 – 32 Allen Socket Head Cap Screws. See
figure 19.
Fig. 19
To adjust the spacing you will need:
5/32” Allen Hex Wrench
Two identical Key Blanks
Small Plastic Mallet
Two #10-32 Screws

Before you begin please make sure that both top vise jaws are in the standard configuration. See figure 20.
Fig. 20
Stack the two identical key blanks one on top of each other and clamp them in the right hand vise jaw. Be sure
to top shoulder gauge them with the machine’s flip-up full-function key gauges –leave about 1/32” gap be-
tween the bottom shoulder of the keys and the left-side edge of the vise jaws. DO NOT bottom shoulder the
keys into the vise - there may be a small radius in the corner of the key blank’s blade and bottom shoulder ar-
ea. Clamping in this area may ANGLE the key blank in the vise jaw and throw off your adjustment. There
should be NO key blank in the left vise jaw for this part of the procedure.
DO NOT FORGET to flip down your key gauges. Failure to do so may result in damage to the key gauge and
key gauge shaft by the cutter wheel.
Switch ON the key machine and carefully release the carriage and position it so the cutter wheel will make a
cut in about the middle of the blade of the key blanks. Hold the machine’s “stick-shift” lever steady and careful-
ly make a straight “V” cut into the two-piece key blank stack about 1/8” deep – it is important to do this opera-
tion without moving the carriage sidewise by the slightest amount. See figure 21.
Fig. 21
Pull the carriage back straight and switch OFF the key machine.
Remove the two key blanks from the right vise jaw –Do Not Mix Them Up.
-19-
STANDARD TOP JAW
CONFIGURATION

-20-
Reinstall the TOP key blank in the Right vise jaw with about 1/32” gap between the bottom shoulder of the key
and the left-edge of the vise jaw.
Install the BOTTOM key blank in the left vise jaw - flip up the machine’s full-function key gauges and carefully
top shoulder guard the left key to the key in the right-hand vise jaw.
Carefully release the carriage and align the left-hand blank’s “V” cut with the machine’s stylus – the “V” cut in
the key blank in the right-hand vise jaw should “fall” into place around the “V” profile of the cutter wheel.
Use your hands to carefully turn the cutter wheel BACKWARDS to verify that the cutter wheel’s teeth do not
touch the “V” cut in the key blank.
Loosen the two #10 –32 Screws securing the cutter shaft assembly in place using your 5/32” Allen Hex Wrench
–Retighten the two screws with LIGHT pressure. You want just enough retightening pressure on the two
screws to keep the cutter shaft assembly in place so you can’t move it with your hand – but you can move it
with gentle-to-moderate tapping with your small plastic mallet. See figure 22.
Fig. 22
Turn the cutter BACKWARDS with your hand and observe which way you must move the cutter. Use your
small plastic mallet to “nudge” the cutter shaft assembly in the direction you want it to go. It is a good idea to
verify the cutter position in the “V” cut in the key after every “tap” of the small plastic mallet. Verify your results
by turning the cutter backwards with your hand. Also, verify that the stylus is properly seated in the “V” cut in
the left-hand key. Adjust the position of the carriage using the machine’s “stick-shift” lever as required to keep
the stylus seated in the “V” cut in the key.
Continue with this procedure until you are satisfied with the position of the cutter. Once you are satisfied you
may wish to turn ON your key machine and observe the spinning cutter wheel in the “V” cut in the key. This test
must only be done AFTER you have turned the cutter wheel backwards by hand and verify that no cutter wheel
teeth will contact either side of the “V” cut in the key. With the machine running you may want to slightly
“nudge” the spinning cutter a little more before retightening
the two #10 –32 screws.
VIEW SHOWN WITHOUT CUT-
TER GUARD FOR CLARITY.
YOU DO NOT HAVE TO RE-
MOVE THE CUTTER GUARD TO
ADJUST SPACING.
Loosen
two
screws.
Use your small
plastic mallet to
move the cutter to
the left.
Use your small
plastic mallet to
move the cutter
to the right.

-21-
Switch OFF the key machine.
Tighten the two screws using the 5/32” Allen Hex Wrench
IMPORTANT –Verify that your depth adjustment is correct and readjust if necessary. Refer back to page 15
regarding Depth Adjustment if necessary.
16. KEY GAUGE ADJUSTMENT
Stack two identical key blanks one on top of the other and clamp in the right-hand vise jaw. Be sure to BOT-
TOM SHOULDER GAUGE them. DO NOT use the machine’s flip-up full-function key gauges.
There should be NO key blank in the left vise jaw for this part of the procedure.
Switch ON the key machine and carefully release the carriage and position it so the cutter wheel will make a
cut in about the middle of the blade of the key blanks. Hold the machine’s “stick-shift” lever steady and careful-
ly make a straight “V” cut into the two-piece key blank stack - go all the way to the
carriage’s built-in over-travel stop and move the machine’s “stick-shift” lever to the LEFT making a wide cut
slightly more than ¼” wide.
Pull the carriage back and SWITCH OFF the key machine.
Remove the two key blanks from the right-hand vise jaw.
Reinstall one key blank in the Right vise jaw- use BOTTOM SHOULDER GAUGING. DO NOT use the ma-
chine’s flip-up full-function key gauges.
Install the other key blank in the Left vise jaw - use BOTTOM SHOULDER GAUGING. DO NOT use the ma-
chine’s flip-up full function key gauges.
NOW flip up the machine’s full-function key gauges and place them in the wide grooves cut in the keys. Adjust
the key gauges as necessary by loosening the key gauge’s fastening screws - retighten the screws when you
are finished. See figure 23
Fig. 23
The key gauges now match the spacing of the vise jaws.
You MUST verify and readjust, if necessary, the machine’s spacing and adjustment. Please refer to page 18
for SPACING ADJUSTMENT information.