Samba Pike Precision 2 User manual

Pike Precision 2
Congratulations for choosing the right model! Your new Pike Precision.
The model is a handmade product, carefully packed for your convenience.
Please check that all items ordered are included and not damaged during transportation.
A basic model includes:
•2 wing sections (left and right)
•1 fuselage with nose cone and tail cone
•2 v-tails
•1 carbon joiner
•aileron and flaps horns (unless RDS version ordered)
•2 pcs clevis couplers
•Wire harness
•4 plastic servo covers
Additionally you can order:
•ballast set
•wing bags
•Fuse cover for sun protection
To complete a model you will need:
•4 pcs metal geared servos for the wings. Min. 25Ncm/35oz.in
•2 pcs 13mm servo for v-tail. Min. 20Ncm/30oz.in
•8 clevises and 2mm threaded rods for the wings (or better 2,5mm)
•4xAA Rx battery or equal and a sufficient switch
•a high quality receiver
•epoxy to glue in the servos and thin cyano (CA) to secure clevises
•strong clear tape (12mm wide) to join the wings and v-tail to the fuselage
Assembling the wing:
•Sand the surface of the servos and the servo trays where the servos will be glued.
•Connect the servos and the fuse harness to the respective channels on the
receiver. Check that the aileron servo arms are set 90 degrees on the servo and
that the transmitter also is set to neutral. Check that the flap servo arms are set
identically to approximately 20 degrees (measured from the 90°-angle) towards
the flap. The transmitter should later be set to an offset so that the flap servo
arms are 90 degrees on the servos. With full butterfly the servo arms on the flaps
are almost straight towards the flap. This ensures full deflection of the flaps for
butterfly brake.
•Check again the servo settings and also set the offset of the flap servos. Check
also that the servos move the right way.
•Mark where the servos will be glued in place by a pencil in the servo trays and
ensure that the servo arm is aligned (straight line) to the line defined by the hole
in the subspar and the flap horn. Some like to fix their servos to the spar. This
ensures a very tight and slop free servo installation as the wing surface can bend
a little.
•Glue the aileron and flap horns.
•Glue the servos in using epoxy. Use a proper amount of epoxy so that some
epoxy will be pressed out on the sides of the servos when you push them in. Use
some weight fixing the servos as long as the epoxy hardens to ensure that the
servo fits perfect. If the epoxy is thin it is possible to add some thixotropy agent.

•Install the threads and clevises whilst the servo arms are set 90 degrees on the
servos and the ailerons / flaps are set in neutral position. Secure the thread to the
clevis with extra thin CA as this is a place with some slop. Check also thoroughly
the clevis pins going into the horns and servo arms. There are clevises that can be
poorly made in this special detail. Use the inner most hole on the servoarms
possible to ensure full power of the servo yet providing full throw.
•It is recommended to install clear tape on the ends of the wings. This will prevent
the paint being ripped off when the tape is applied / removed every time you go
flying.
•Adjust the aileron throw to 20/12mm.
•Adjust the aileron throw on flaps to 9/6mm
•Adjust the crow brake flaps to as much as possible (70-85 degrees is good)
•Adjust the crowbrake on ailerons to 7mm up
•Adjust the camber for launch to 10mm flap and aileron equal.
Camber for thermal is +3mm measured on flaps and equal along the whole
trailing edge. More thermal camber might be used in special weather conditions.
Camber/relex for speed is -1 mm.
•Snap flap (elevator – flap mix) can be used up to 10mm on full elevator throw.
Beware snap flap might not be the most effective in all conditions / flying styles.
•Cut the servo covers carefully so that the servo horns fit underneath the bumps if
needed.
Assembling the fuselage:
•Install the “fuse to wing”-harness in the fuselage. Roughen the green connector
and fuselage fitting before you glue it.
•Install the receiver battery and receiver before servos. 2+2 AA batteries are
recommended though 2+3 can also be fitted. It is recommended to pack the
receiver in bubble plastic or equal to absorb shocks.
Two Lion battery is possible. Ensure servos can use the voltage and secure the
front end of the battery to absorb shocks. Use a voltage regulator if needed.
•Install the fuselage servos
•Install the receiver. If 2.4 receiver with long antennas is used there is a slot on
the underside of the inner nose cone to tape on one antenna. Drill a hole so that
the antenna comes out without making a sharp bend. Tape the antenna to the
inner nose cone. The second (or more) antenna is taped on the receiver side
making sure it is as free as possible and not hidden by electronics or wires.
The outer nose cone is of glassfiber and signals will pass thru with no hindering. A
range test will show that your installation is correct.
•Shorten the rod for correct length. Roughen inside of the tube and glue the
coupler inside of the push rod. Pinch the coupler with a plier to ensure tight fit.
Check the connection thoroughly.
Glue the pushrod tube to the fuselage between canopy and the leading edge
•Adjust the elevator so that it is in neutral checking top and bottom airfoil. Full
throw is 5mm up and 5mm down. At full crow the elevator goes down
approximately 5mm depending on crow settings for wing. It is good to ensure
more down throw (+10mm) possible after crow brake is set.
Launch setting is -1mm
Rudder throw +/- 6mm
Assembling the model:
•Attach the two v-tails to the fuse and secure with a tiny piece of tape round the
front and lower part. Carefully push the ball link in place and check that they
move freely. Pinch the plastic with a plier to free them up if they are tight. The

ball link can be removed by using a flat screwdriver clicking it off again. Tape on
the tail cone.
•Adjust the tow hook to 100mm from the leading edge.
•Attach the wing with clear tape to secure at top and around leading edge.
•Check and adjust the CG (center of gravity). A suitable CG to start off is 99 for
F3B and 95 – 99mm for F3F from leading edge.
•Check range according to transmitter specifications.
If you can not get the necessary range you need to:
1) Check antenna locations
2) Try another transmitter
3) Try another receiver
Settings:
•All the latest detailed settings can be found on www.F3J.com.
These are settings from some of the world’s best pilots.
You will find these setting a very good starting point.
Model cannot stay in the sun without silver protection covers (including fuselage). Covers
prevent excessive heating of the model as there could appear some deformations of
model parts when model is overheated, or the surface could get distortions. If the reflex
painted parts are not protected against the sun, the reflex effect will fade much earlier
even if there is used layer of paint with UV filter
Joiner is made of high modulus carbon fibers UMS
After harder landings it is necessary to check the joiner and look for cracks as it could
cause failure of complete model in the next flights.
We hope you will be satisfied with your new model. If you have any questions be sure to
look at our webpages. Additional info about the setup and detailed pictures can be found
there.
Regards
Samba Model
Webpage: www.F3J.com / Email: [email protected]