Samsung RC090MHXEA Manual

www.samsungehs.co.uk Hendra – August 2013
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Air Source Heat Pump
Installation and Maintenance Manual
Model Numbers:
RC090MHXEA
RC160MHXEA
August 2013

www.samsungehs.co.uk Hendra – August 2013
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The outdoor unit (boiler)
Deciding on Where to Install the Outdoor Unit
The outdoor unit must not be placed on its side or upside down, as the compressor lubrication
oil will run into the cooling circuit and seriously damage the unit.
Choose a location where the noise of the Air to Water Heat Pump when running and the
discharged air do not disturb any neighbours.
Install the outdoor unit on a flat, stable surface with plenty of drainage, gravel or grass is
ideal; make sure the base can support its weight
Position the outdoor unit so that the air flows into an open area.
Place the outdoor unit where there are no plants and animals
When installing the outdoor unit near sea make sure it is not directly exposed to sea breeze.
The golden rule is, if you can see the sea from the position of the outdoor unit you need to
apply Blygold or equivalent anti-corrosion coating on the whole unit.
The unit needs to be securely
mounted at least 100mm off the
ground on rubber feet or wall
brackets, the unit must be bolted
down for security using 10mm bolts
and Zebedee bolts.
The unit must have adequate
drainage away from the unit; it can
produce up to 6 L / hour.
There is a drainage kit included
which we recommend you don’t
use, its best to let the unit drain into
the ground. The drain holes in the
unit are clearly shown, if a drip tray
is used it must be 25mm longer and wider than the base of the unit to catch all the drips.
Dimensions:
Size 16 - 1420mm (h) 940mm (w) 330mm (d) 103kg
Size 9 - 998mm (h) 940mm (w) 330mm (d) 75kg
The space around the unit is very important, allow:
300mm to the left hand side (facing the front of the
unit), 600mm to the right of the unit, 300mm to the
rear of the unit and 1500mm to the front of the unit.
The unit will not benefit from being mounted on the
North or South of the building any aspect is fine, you
should avoid very exposed positions to avoid wind
blowing into the back or front of the unit and very
sheltered positions.
An exposed location may increase difficulty for full unit defrost.
The Control Box
When the heat pump is delivered it comes with a control box which also contains the flow
switch. Install the control unit indoors as it’s not waterproof.
It needs to be sited within 15m of the hot water cylinder, 100m of the outdoor unit and as near
as possible to the pump, flow switch and any zone valves.
The box is 323mm wide, 339mm high, 131mm deep

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Pipework Schematic size 9 units
The 9kW unit has 1 inch BSP
male connections; these should
be connected to flexi hoses.
To maintain flow rate we
recommend 28mm pipework is
used with this machine. NEVER
use 22mm plastic tube, if you
insist on using plastic use 28mm
throughout
All Pipework including the flexis
need to be insulated with 23mm
lagging
It is essential to connect an
expansion vessel, pressure
gauge, pressure relief valve, filling
loop, magnetic filter/strainer and
automatic bypass.
A pump will be required, normally
in the flow. Dependant on system
resistance some times, 2 pumps
may be required.
Either a 3 port diverter valve or 2
x 2 port valves need to be
installed for domestic hot water
prioritisation.
Its possible to have 2 heating
zones at 2 different temperatures
for example one for radiators and
one for under floor
A flow meter / setter and flow
switch should be installed and a
strainer in the return.
The domestic hot water cylinder
must be manufactured specifically
for the heat pump and have a coil
with a surface area of more than
3m^2 equivalent..

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Pipework Schematic size 16 units
The 16 kW unit has 1 inch BSP
male connections, these should
be connected to flexi hoses
(supplied).
To maintain flow rate we
recommend 28mm pipework is
used with this machine. NEVER
use 22mm plastic tube, if you
insist on using plastic use 28mm
throughout
All Pipework including the flexis
need to be insulated with 23mm
lagging
It is essential to connect an
expansion vessel, pressure
gauge, pressure relief valve, filling
loop, magnetic filter/strainer and
automatic bypass.
A pump will be required, normally
in the flow. Dependant on system
resistance some times, 2 pumps
may be required.
Either a 3 port diverter valve or 2
x 2 port valves need to be
installed for domestic hot water
prioritisation.
Its possible to have 2 heating
zones at 2 different temperatures
for example one for radiators and
one for under floor
A flow meter / setter and flow
switch should always be installed
and a strainer in the return.
The domestic hot water cylinder
must be manufactured specifically
for the heat pump and have a coil
with a surface area of more than
3m^2 equivalent.

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Other components you need to supply and fit:
An expansion vessel, pressure gauge, pressure relief valve and filling
loop
Most heating engineers use a robokit with the appropriate size expansion
vessel, this is sized exactly the same way as when using a boiler.
Pump
Your pump needs to supply 20l/min for the 9kW and 30l/min for the 16kW unit.
The static resistance through the unit is 10kPa for the 9kW and 15kPa for the
16kW unit. The flow meter has a resistance of around 5kPa
The cylinders (Gledhill) have a static resistance of 5kPa for the heat pump coil
and 19kPa for the solar coil.
The total resistance of the components will be approximately 39kPa for the size
9 unit and if the cylinder is piped using both coils and approximately 44kPa for
the size 16 unit if using both coils.
Flow switch and flow meter
The unit requires 16L / min flow at all times, if you don’t achieve this
E911 error will occur to check this flow switch is installed. The flow
switch comes with the control box.
The flow Switch MUST be installed in horizontal pipe with at least
150mm of straight pipe either side, connection is 1” female BSP. The
wire is 2m long and needs to connect into the wiring station. This wire can be extended to
suit. We recommend a flow meter is installed into the flow side of the flow switch as per the
photo. Adaptors may be required to enable this join. The flow switch is not IP65 rated
(weatherproof) and so must not be installed externally.
Diverter valves
If you require domestic hot water and heating, diverter valves are
required, you need to supply these. You can use a three port or 2
port valves. The three ports must be of the diverter variety or wired
as a diverter, see wiring.
Bypass Valve
You must install a bypass valve in the heating circuit as far away from the heat
pump as possible. The bypass valve enables flow to be maintained as the trv’s
shut down at all times to prevent unit flow fault.
Buffer vessels
We don’t normally use buffer vessels on Samsung EHS systems; as long as the water volume
circulating is over 20 Litre. The inbuilt variable speed compressor means the unit can operate
without a buffer.
1m of 22mm pipe holds 380 ml of water, if you add the volume in the unit and components
and make sure you put the bypass valve more than 25m from the heat pump your system
volume will be adequate. When utilizing multiple units, a buffer or low loss header is required
to hydraulically join the units.
Water Filter
In all cases a filter with strainer needs to be installed in the return to the heat pump. A
magnetic filter must also be installed in the return to the unit. The filters ensure that
debris/foreign materials do not cause damage to the heat exchanger in the unit voiding
warranties.
Glycol
A propylene glycol mixture must be utilized to prevent freezing of the water within the system.
It is important that the glycol concentration is adequate to protect the unit in case of power
failure in very cold conditions. If the unit freezes up there will be no warranty. Manufacturer
dependant, a mix of around 25% should suffice.

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The Cylinder:
The cylinder needs to be installed less than 15m from the control box to allow for the
temperature sensor cable. Note the size and weight of the cylinder. Full installation
instructions are included with the cylinder.
We only recommend using Gledhill heat pump stainless steel cylinders however other
cylinders can be used IF the coil area is more than 2.5m^2. Smaller coils are not acceptable
and cannot be used. Please do not attempt to utilize a standard central heating, non-heat
pump optimized cylinder. Cylinders can be pressurised or open vented.
When using Gledhill cylinders both the heat pump
(top) coil and the solar (bottom) coil should be
used. If no solar thermal is being used the heat
pump should connect to both coils as per the
recommendations in the Gledhill installation
instructions, and oversized by 30% to take into
account 0kW input from solar thermal in winter.
G3
The G3 regulations state in section 3.13a “for all
indirect heat sources an overheat cut out to
disconnect the supply to the stored vessel in the
event of the stored water overheating must be
employed so that the temperature of the stored
water does not exceed 100C”.
For this reason the heat pump cylinder comes with
a 2 port valve and cylinder stat. The valve can be
installed in the flow as per the diagram.
However as the refrigerant used in the Samsung
EHS is R410A it is not able to physically heat above its critical temperature of 72.8C.
Many heating engineers do not install this valve.
If solar thermal is used it needs to be connected to the bottom coil of the cylinder as shown.

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Wiring diagram for heating and HW heat pump:
If normally open valves are used connect the live feed for the valves to B10 for
HW, B13 for zone 1 and B17 for zone 2

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Wiring and Power Supply Information:
Power
The EHS system needs 2 power supplies:
One connects into the outdoor unit, 20 Amp for the 9kW and 32
Amp for the size 16
The one for the control box is 16 Amp and wires into the top of
the breaker (mcb) in the box
Immersion Heater
The immersion heater is connected into the control box terminals
A3 Neutral and A4 Live, The control box controls the operation of
the immersion heater. If a fused spur is used it must be labelled
as switching it off will cause an error.
Communication cable
This must be run from the outdoor unit to the control box. Use 2 core flex 0.5-1mm (its 16V
ac)
Sensors
The blue cylinder sensor plugs into a socket T4 on the
controller PCB and into the control sensor pocket in the cylinder
in the top ½ of the cylinder. Must be above immersion. The
cylinder sensor needs to go 115mm into the cylinder; it must be
clipped so it can’t pull out.
The red safety sensor is to avoid over temperature, when using a backup boiler or heater, it
clips to the outlet of the boiler. If no backup boiler is used the sensor is not needed. It plugs
into a red socket T3 on the controller PCB
There is a black wire with a red plug in the box, this is not used.
Sensors cannot not be cut or extended. Keep sensors away from mains cables please
Diverter Valves
Using a three port valve
3 way valve if A to heating & B to HW wire both the white and grey wires to B9, Blue to B7 the
rest are not used. If valve is piped the other way round use terminal B10 instead of B9
Using two port valves
2 port valve for Hot water, wire brown wire to B9 and Blue to B7, the rest are not used.
2 port valve for heating zone 1 wire B14 live and B11 Neutral
2 port valve for heating zone 2 wire B18 live and B15 Neutral
Thermostats/ timers and under floor heating manifolds
We recommend in all cases the heating should be controlled by an external field supplied
room stat / setback stat time clock etc. or run signal from a boiler enable signal from under
floor manifolds. If both rads and u floor are used in the same system the heat pump can be
controlled to run at 2 different set points one for each thermostat terminal.
To run the unit with radiators make a connection from B20 – B24, to run the unit from under
floor heating make the connection from B20 - B22. B20 is permanently live 240V ac. B19 is
Neutral
When the stat is made the unit will run, when the stat opens the unit will stop. NOTE the
pump will run on for 6 minutes after the unit is told to stop. Hot water production is not
affected and will always take priority.
Pump
The circulation pump must be wired Live to B6 and neutral to B5, MAX pump power is 500
Watts. If two pumps are used wire them both to these terminals
If normally open valves are used connect the live feed for the valves to B10 for
HW, B13 for zone 1 and B17 for
zone 2

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Using multiple heating zones:
When multi zone systems are required the wiring and pipework needs to be set up as below.

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Start Up Procedure:
With the power OFF, remove the front of the remote controller, slide it upwards, turn it over
DON’T TOUCH THE PCB, there are 8 dip switches near the red sensor, using a small
screwdriver flick dip switch 1 and 5 to on. Cooling will no longer be available. Put the
controller back on the wall.
On the outdoor unit remove the front cover, there are 2
screws at the top and one at the bottom, slide the cover
down. Inside the unit on the back of the white switch box
there is a baseplate heater PCB see picture. Which is not
normally required in the UK, disconnect the bottom wire with
the white plug and tuck it out the way
Filling and flushing:
The Building Regulations for England and Wales, Part L,
2006, now require a central heating system to be cleaned
and inhibited chemically whenever the boiler is changed or
any major works are carried out to the system. When
installing any Heat pump we insist on a thorough system
flush prior to connection of the new equipment, your
warranty will be at risk if a suitable flush is not carried out
and the system becomes blocked during normal operation. The recommended procedure is to
power flush the system in both forward and reverse directions at 110% of the normal flow rate
and to use a chemical flushing agent where required.
Filling
Using the power flusher fill the system with water and 25% Propylene
Glycol to more than 1 bar. DON’T fill the unit with a hose expecting no
air locks, the heat pump is prone to air locking at the outdoor unit,
there is no auto air vent here. Don’t pour neat glycol into the unit;
there is no chance of the heating pump moving neat glycol around the
system.
Powering Up
Apply power to indoor control box first then the outdoor unit.
On the outdoor unit PCB the display will show 88 88, It will then start
flashing numbers 00, 01 02 etc. It will now flash a message like 00
00, dE, F0 etc.
If the outdoor unit / remote controller show E201 there is a comms
error. Check the comms cable between the outdoor unit and the
control box F1 and F2. In the middle of the control box PCB you will see two tiny leds one red
and one orange flashing. The red one shows the signal leaving the PCB and the orange
shows the signal coming back from the outdoor unit.