Saxon 607AZ2 User manual

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Saxon 607AZ2
Refractor Telescope
Instruction Manual
www.saxon.com.au

FOR 607AZ
Optical Tube: 60mm/700mm Alt-Azimuth Mount: AZ
INSTRUCTION MANUAL
Dust Cap / Mask
(Remove before Viewing)
Dew Cap / Sun Shade
Objective Lens
Telescope Main Tube
Finderscope
Finderscope Bracket
Finderscope Alignment
Screws
Focus Locking Screw
Eyepiece
Diagonal
Focus Tube
Focus Knob
Altitude Fine-adjustment
Control
Azimuth Lock Knob
Accessory Tray
Tripod Leg
Height Adjustment
Clamp
Yoke Locking Knob
Altitude Lock Knob
Yoke Mount

Assembling Your Telescope
Operating the AZ Mount
Using the Barlow Lens
Focusing
Pointing Your Telescope
Calculating the Magnification (power)
Calculating the Field of View
Calculating the Exit Pupil
Operating Your Telescope
Tripod Set up
Telescope Assembly
Finderscope Assembly
Eyepiece Assembly
Alligning the Finderscope
Suggested Reading
Observing the Sky
Sky Conditions
Selecting an Observing Site
Choosing the Best Time to Observe
Chooling the Telescope
Using Your Eyes
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
Read the entire instructions carefully before
beginning. Your telesope should be assembled
during daylight hours. Choose a large, open
area to work to allow room for all parts to be
unpackaged.
Before you begin
Never use your telescope to look directly at the
sun. Permanent eye damage will result. Use
a proper solar filter for viewing the sun. When
observing the sun, place a dust cap over your
finderscope to protect it from exposure. Never
use an eyepiece-type solar filter and never use
your telescope to project sunlight onto another
surface, the internal heat build-up will damage
the telescope optical elements.
Caution!

3
ATTACHING TELESCOPE MAIN
TUBE TO MOUNT (Fig. 4, 5, 6, 7)
1) Unscrew the machine screw on the
altitude control locking knob.
2) Insert the micro-adjustable altitude control
into the hole on the side of the altitude
control locking knob.
3) Slide telescope tube into slots on end
of yoke mount. Secure telescope tube
onto yoke mount using the yoke locking
knobs without overtightening.
4) Remove machine screw from telescope
tube and use this to fasten the micro-
adjustable altitude control.
Fig. 4.
Fig. 5
Fig.1
ATTACHING MOUNT TO TRIPOD LEGS (Fig. 2)
3) Fasten the top of each tripod leg to the bottom of the yoke mount
using the machine screws with the washers and wingnuts. Align each
leg so that the hinge for the accessory tray faces inwards. Be careful
not to over-tighten the wingnuts and damage tripod legs.
ATTACHING THE ACCESSORY TRAY (Fig. 3)
1) Attach accessory tray to hinges on tripod legs using
the small machine screws and wing nuts.
Flange fits under accessory tray when attached.
ASSEMBLING TRIPOD LEGS (Fig.1)
1) Gently push middle section of each tripod leg at the top so that the
pointed foot protrudes below the tripod clamp.
2) Insert tripod lock screws into the thread holes on the side of the tripod and
clamp without over-tightening.
Fig. 2
Fig. 3
TRIPOD SET UP
TELESCOPE ASSEMBLY
Fig. 7
Fig. 6

4
Fig. 9
Fig. 8
FINDERSCOPE ASSEMBLY
INSERTING EYEPIECE (Fig. 10)
1) Unscrew the thumbscrews on the end of the focus
tube to remove the plastic endcap.
2) Insert diagonal and re-tighten thumbscrews
to hold diagonal in place.
3) Loosen the thumbscrews on the diagonal.
4) Insert the desired eyepiece into diagonal
and secure by re-tightening
thumbscrews.
Fig. 10
Fig. 11
Fig. 12
EYEPIECE ASSEMBLY
FINDERSCOPE ALLIGNMENT
ATTACHING THE FINDERSCOPE (Fig. 8, 9)
1) Locate finderscope optical assembly.
2) Remove the two knurled thumbscrews
near the end of the telescope main tube.
3) Position the finderscope bracket over
the screws in the telescope main body.
4) Secure the finderscope bracket with the
two knurled thumbscrews.
These fixed magnification scopes mounted on the optical tube are very
useful accessories. When they are correctly aligned with the telescope,
objects can be quickly located and brought to the centre of the field.
Alignment is best done outdoors in day light when it's easier to locate
objects. If it is necessary to refocus your finderscope, sight on an object
that is at least 500 yards (metres) away. Twist the end of the finderscope
until focus is reached (Fig.11).
1) Choose a distant object that is at least 500 yards away
and point the main telescope at the object. Adjust the
telescope so that the object is in the centre of the view
in your eyepiece.
2) Check the finderscope to see if the object centred in the
main telescope view is centred on the crosshairs.
3) Use the three alignment screws to centre the finderscope
crosshairs on the object (Fig.12).

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OPERATING YOUR TELESCOPE
Operating the AZ mount
This telescope has an altitude(up-down)-
azimuth(left-right) mount to control telescope
movements. Loosen the azimuth lock knob
to make left-right direction movements then
tighten to lock. Loosen the altitude lock knob
to make course up-down changes. Altitude
fine adjustments can be made by rotating
the knurled wheel on the altitude fine
adjustment rod after tightening the altitude
lock knob. (Fig.a)
Altitude adjustment
Azimuth adjustment
Altitude fine adjustment
Fig.a
Fig.b
Barlow
Eyepiece
Using the Barlow lens
A Barlow is a negative lens which increases the magnifying power
of an eyepiece, while reducing the field of view. It expands the cone
of the focussed light before it reaches the focal point, so that the
telescope's focal length appears longer to the eyepiece.
The Barlow is usually inserted between the diagonal and the eyepiece
(Fig.b). With some telescopes, it can also be inserted between the
focuser and the diagonal, and in this position it gives even greater
magnification. For example, a Barlow which is 2X when inserted after
the diagonal can become 3X when placed in front of the diagonal.
In addition to increasing magnification, the benefits of using a Barlow lens include improved eye relief,
and reduced spherical aberration in the eyepiece. For this reason, a Barlow plus a lens often outperform
a single lens producing the same magnification. However, its greatest value may be that a Barlow can
potentially double the number of eyepiece in your collection.
Focusing
Fig.c
Slowly turn the focus knobs under the focuser, one way
or the other, until the image in the eyepiece is sharp
(Fig.c). The image usually has to be finely refocused over
time, due to small variations caused by temperature changes,
flexures, etc. This often happens with short focal ratio
telescopes, particularly when they haven't yet reached
outside temperature. Refocusing is almost always
necessary when you change an eyepiece or add or
remove a Barlow lens.

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Pointing your telescope
Pointing an altitude-azimuth (alt-az) mounted telescope is relatively easy. With the mount level, you can swivel
the telescope around on a plane parallel to your horizon and then tilt it up and down from there (Fig.c). You can
think of it as turning your telescope in azimuth until it is facing the horizon below a celestial object and then
tilting it up to the object's altitude. However, the Earth rotates and therefore the stars are constantly moving,
so to track with this mount you need to constantly nudge the optical tube in both azimuth and altitude to keep
the object in the field.
In reference material for your local position, the altitude will be listed as ±degrees (minutes, seconds) above
or below your horizon. Azimuth may be listed by the cardinal compass points such as N, SW, ENE, etc., but
it is usually listed in 360 degree (minutes, seconds) steps clockwise from North (0°), with East, South and
West being 90°, 180° and 270 °, respectively (Fig.d).
Fig.d
Rotate in Azimuth
(90°)
(180°) SE
(270°) W
Zenith
Nadir
Meridian
Line
Tilt in
Altitude
Nadir
(0°/360°)
N

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True Field of View =
Apparent Field of View
Magnification
The size of the view that you see through your telescope is called the true (or actual) field of view and it is
determined by the design of the eyepiece. Every eyepiece has a value, called the apparent field of view,
which is supplied by the manufacturer. Field of view is usually measured in degrees and/or arc-minutes
(there are 60 arc-minutes in a degree). The true field of view produced by your telescope is calculated by
dividing the eyepiece's apparent field of view by the magnification that you previously calculated for the
combination. Using the figures in the previous magnification example, if your 10mm eyepiece has an
apparent field of view of 52 degrees, then the true field of view is 0.65 degrees or 39 arc-minutes.
To put this in perspective, the moon is about 0.5° or 30 arc-minutes in diameter, so this combination would
be fine for viewing the whole moon with a little room to spare. Remember, too much magnification and too
small a field of view can make it very hard to find things. It is usually best to start at a lower magnification
with its wider field and then increase the magnification when you have found what you are looking for. First
find the moon then look at the shadows in the craters!
Calculating the exit pupil
The Exit Pupil is the diameter (in mm) of the narrowest point of the cone of light leaving your telescope.
Knowing this value for a telescope-eyepiece combination tells you whether your eye is receiving all of the
light that your primary lens or mirror is providing. The average person has a fully dilated pupil diameter of
about 7mm. This value varies a bit from person to person, is less until your eyes become fully dark adapted
and decreases as you get older. To determine an exit pupil, you divide the diameter of the primary of your
telescope (in mm) by the magnification.
For example, a 200mm f/5 telescope with a 40mm eyepiece produces a magnification of 25x and an exit
pupil of 8mm. This combination can probably be used by a young person but would not be of much value
to a senior citizen. The same telescope used with a 32mm eyepiece gives a magnification of about 31x and
an exit pupil of 6.4mm which should be fine for most dark adapted eyes. In contrast, a 200mm f/10 telescope
with the 40mm eyepiece gives a magnification of 50x and an exit pupil of 4mm, which is fine for everyone.
Exit Pupil =
Diameter of Primary mirror in mm
Magnification
Calculating the field of view
When you are looking at astronomical objects, you are looking through a column of air that reaches to the
edge of space and that column seldom stays still. Similarly, when viewing over land you are often looking
through heat waves radiating from the ground, house, buildings, etc. Your telescope may be able to give
very high magnification but what you end up magnifying is all the turbulence between the telescope and
the subject. A good rule of thumb is that the usable magnification of a telescope is about 2X per mm of
aperture under good conditions.
The magnification produced by a telescope is determined by the focal length of the eyepiece that is used
with it. To determine a magnification for your telescope, divide its focal length by the focal length of the
eyepieces you are going to use. For example, a 10mm focal length eyepiece will give 80X magnification
with an 800mm focal length telescope.
Calculating the magnification (power)
magnification = = = 80X
Focal length of the telescope
Focal length of the eyepiece
800mm
10mm

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Sky conditions
Selecting an observing site
Sky conditions are usually defined by two atmospheric characteristics, seeing, or the steadiness of the air,
and transparency, light scattering due to the amount of water vapour and particulate material in the air. When
you observe the Moon and the planets, and they appear as though water is running over them, you probably
have bad "seeing" because you are observing through turbulent air. In conditions of good "seeing", the stars
appear steady, without twinkling, when you look at them with unassisted eyes (without a telescope). Ideal
"transparency" is when the sky is inky black and the air is unpolluted.
Travel to the best site that is reasonably accessible. It should be away from city lights, and upwind from any
source of air pollution. Always choose as high an elevation as possible; this will get you above some of the
lights and pollution and will ensure that you aren't in any ground fog. Sometimes low fog banks help to block
light pollution if you get above them. Try to have a dark, unobstructed view of the horizon, especially the
southern horizon if you are in the Northern Hemisphere and vice versa. However, remember that the darkest
sky is usually at the "Zenith", directly above your head. It is the shortest path through the atmosphere. Do
not try to observe any object when the light path passes near any protrusion on the ground. Even extremely
light winds can cause major air turbulence as they flow over the top of a building or wall. If you try to observe
on any structure, or even a sidewalk, movements you make may cause the telescope to vibrate. Pavement
and concrete can also radiate stored heat which will affect observing.
Observing through a window is not recommended because the window glass will distort images considerably.
And an open window can be even worse, because warmer indoor air will escape out the window, causing
turbulence which also affects images. Astronomy is an outdoor activity.
The best conditions will have still air, and obviously, a clear view of the sky. It is not necessary that the sky
be cloud-free. Often broken cloud conditions provide excellent seeing. Do not view immediately after sunset.
After the sun goes down, the Earth is still cooling, causing air turbulence. As the night goes on, not only
will seeing improve, but air pollution and ground lights will often diminish. Some of the best observing time
is often in the early morning hours. Objects are best observed as they cross the meridian, which is an
imaginary line that runs through the Zenith, due North-South. This is the point at which objects reach their
highest points in the sky. Observing at this time reduces bad atmospheric effects. When observing near
the horizon, you look through lots of atmosphere, complete with turbulence, dust particles and increased
light pollution.
Telescopes require at least 10 to 30 minutes to cool down to outside air temperature. However this may
take longer if there is a big diference between the temperature of the telescope and the outside air. This
minimizes heat wave distortion inside telescope tube (tube currents). Allow a longer cooling time for larger
optics. If you are using an equatorial mount, use this time for polar alignment.
Do not expose your eye to anything except red light for 30 minutes prior to observing. This allows your pupils
to expand to their maximum diameter and biochemical light adaptation to occur. It is important to observe
with both eyes open. This avoids fatigue at the eyepiece , allows you to check against reference material,
and is a good habit to develop if you sketch at the eyepiece.. If you find this too distracting, cover the non-
used eye with your hand or an eyepatch. Use averted vision on faint objects: The center of your eye is the
least sensitive to low light levels. When viewing a faint object, don't look directly at it. Instead, look slightly
to the side, and the object will appear brighter.
Choosing the best time to observe
Cooling the telescope
Using your eyes
OBSERVING THE SKY

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A
mateur Astronomy
A
strophotography
Beginner's Guide to Amateur Astronomy:
An Owner's Manual for the Night Sky by David J.
Eicher and, Michael Emmerich (Kalmbach Publishing
Co., Books Division, Waukesha, WI, 1993).
NightWatch: A Practical Guide to Viewing the
Universe by Terence Dickinson, (Firefly Books,
Willowdale, ON, Canada, 3rd edition, 1999).
Star Ware: The Amateur Astronomer's Ultimate
Guide to Choosing, Buying, and Using Telescopes
and Accessories by Philip S. Harrington (John Wiley
& Sons, New York, 1998 ).
The Backyard Astronomer's Guide by Terence
Dickinson and Alan Dyer (Firefly Books Ltd.,
Willowdale, ON, Canada, revised edition, 1994).
The Beginner's Observing Guide: An Introduction
to the Night Sky for the Novice Stargazer by Leo
Enright, (The Royal Astronomical Society of Canada,
Toronto, ON, Canada, 1999).
The Deep Sky: An Introduction by Philip S.
Harrington (Sky Publishing Corporation, Cambridge,
MA, Sky & Telescope Observer's Guides Series, ed. Leif
J. Robinson, 1997).
The Universe from Your Backyard: A Guide to
Deep Sky Objects by David J. Eicher (Kalmbach
Publishing Co., Books Division, Waukesha, WI, 1988).
Turn Left at Orion: A Hundred Night Sky
Objects to See in a Small Telescope--and how
to Find Them by Guy J. Consolmagno and Dan M.
Davis, (Cambridge University Press, New York, 3rd
edition, 2000)
A Manual Of Advanced Celestial Photography by
Brad D. Wallis and Robert W. Provin (Cambridge
University Press; New York; 1984)
Astrophotography An Introduction by H.J.P. Arnold
(Sky Publishing Corp., Cambridge, MA,Sky & Telescope
Observer's Guides Series, ed. Leif J. Robinson, 1995).
O
bservational References
M
agazines
Astrophotography for the Amateur: by Michael
Covington (Cambridge University Press, Cambridge,
UK, 2nd edition,1999).
Splendors of the Universe: A Practical Guide to
Photographing the Night Sky by Terence Dickinson
and Jack Newton (Firefly Books, Willowdale, ON,
Canada, 1997)
Wide-Field Astrophotography by Robert Reeves
(Willmann-Bell, Inc., Richmond, VA, 2000).
A Field Guide to the Stars and Planets by Jay M.
Pasachoff, (Houghton Mifflin Company, 1999).
Atlas of the Moon by Antonín Rükl (Kalmbach
Publishing Co., Books Division, Waukesha, WI, 1993).
Burnham's Celestial Handbook: An Observer's
Guide to the Universe Beyond the Solar System
by Robert Burnham (Dover Publications, New York;
3- volume set, 1978).
Observer's Handbook by The Royal Astronomical
Society of Canada, (University of Toronto Press,
Toronto, ON, Canada, published annually).
Sky Atlas 2000.0 by Wil Tirion and Roger W. Sinnott
(Sky Publishing Corp., Cambridge, MA, 2nd edition,
1998)
Astronomy Magazine (Kalmbach Publishing Co.,
Waukesha, WI)
Sky & Telescope Magazine (Sky Publishing Corp.,
Cambridge, MA)
SkyNews Magazine: The Canadian Magazine
of Astronomy & Stargazing (SkyNews Inc., Yarker,
ON, Canada)
SUGGESTED READING