Schatten Design RG-03 User manual

fig 1
Instructions For The RG-03 Player - Pickup For Spider Bridged Instruments
Before You Start, A Word About Amplification:
RG-03 passive pickups have been designed to operate properly and sound good without the use of a preamp when plugged into any normal electric guitar amp.
As a non-preamped piezo pickup the RG-03 has an impedance of approximately 2 mega ohms which most electric guitar amps will handle. As with any passive
pickup, the sound can be further enhanced and EQ'd with an outboard preamp.
PA systems: If you require the added ability to be able to plug directly into a P.A. or mixer then a preamp designed for pickups will be necessary. The preamps that
are built into PA systems are microphone preamps and generally will not work properly with a passive pickup.
Acoustic Amps: If you are plugging into an acoustic amp a preamp may be required depending upon the design of that acoustic amp. Acoustic amps may or may
not require the use of a preamp with a passive pickup and that will depend upon whether or not there is a special built in preamp section within that amp that
specifically allows for the choice of plugging in either a passive (non-preamped) or active (preamped) pickup. This choice is quite often a second channel or a
pushbutton on the amp's control panel. Many acoustic amps show a selection that may indicate the choice of 'high impedance' and 'low impedance'. Low impedance
in these instances usually indicates that in this range the amp will handle an impedance of 1000 ohms or less - which will allow active pickups with preamps to be
used.
High impedance in these instances may indicate an allowable impedance in the 2 or 3 mega ohm range - which will allow passive pickups to be used. Or it may
indicate a maximum input impedance allowed of 20,000 ohms or less - which will handle magnetic electric guitar
pickups but not passive pickups. You should carefully read the technical specifications of your acoustic amp in order
to see what it will do.
This pickup is designed to work on "Dobro" type guitars with a spider bridge. Tools that you will need are: electric
hand drill, assorted drill bits, assorted screw drivers, wire cutters / strippers, an old guitar string, a bit of masking
tape, and a low wattage soldering iron and a bit of solder.
Starting Installation
1) Slack off the strings, remove them from the tailpiece and tape them away from the cover plate. Remove the cover
plate screws and set the cover plate aside. Remove the tailpiece and resonator cone complete with the spider
bridge and set the rest of the guitar aside.
2) Remove the screw that connects the spider bridge to the resonator cone. There are two replacement screws
provided, one is a 3 mm. metric, the other is a 4-40. Check to see which of the two screws fits your resonator cone
properly. The correct screw should thread in very easily, do not force it. Also, make sure that the head of the
replacement screw fits into the saddle slot properly. If the screw head is too large to fit in the slot, grind off or file
away whatever small amount of the head diameter is necessary to make it fit in the slot properly. Once the screw is properly fitted, use it to snugly attach the spider to
the cone.
3) It is suggested that at this point you reinstall the cone with the spider and saddles into the dobro (leave the cover plate off), reinstall the strings, tune the instrument
and tighten the machine screw that connects the spider to the cone so that the sound and response is set to original levels. When this is done, remove the strings, set
the cone and spider assembly on your workbench and set the rest of the instrument aside.
Installing the Pickup Element
The RG-03 sensor is not meant to come into direct contact with any part of the cone. The putty that is supplied with the pickup acts as both a means of attachment
and as an isolator; there always has to be a bead of putty between the contacting surface of the sensor and the wall of the resonator cone. The sensor is meant to
contact the sidewall of the only.
1) Place the pickup on your workbench with the brass side facing up. From the supply of putty provided, run a single bead around the outside of the diameter of the
brass so that the putty covers only the colored potting material outboard of the brass. This bead should be about 1/4" in diameter. If possible, no putty should be on
the brass surface. See fig 1 Note: On some cones, such as a Quaterman, the cone has a much steeper slope than is normal. In order for the pickup to not come into
direct contact with the cone, the putty must be moved further outboard than normal so that it is partly on the edge of the pickup and partly on the underside. See
illustrations below:

2) Place the small length of rubber tubing over the already installed cone mounting screw. Slide the
tubing down as close to the cone as you can. The tubing has two functions: it acts as a damper and it
isolates the pickup from coming into contact with the mounting screw.
3) With the putty and brass side towards the cone, install the pickup by centering the pickup over the
mounting screw and sliding the pickup over the rubber tubing and just allowing the putty to come into
contact with the underside of the cone.
4) The rubber tubing is supplied longer than is necessary so that it will fit all installations. We want the
tubing to stick up above the pickup by about 1/8". Take a pen and draw a line on the tubing at a point
1/8" above the top of the pickup. Remove the tubing and cut on that line. Reinstall the tubing on the
mounting screw making sure to get it down as close to the bottom of the mounting screw as before.
Reinstall the pickup. See fig 2
5) Place the small washer, and then the appropriate nut on the cone mounting screw. Tighten the nut
down until the putty starts to compress. Then tighten the nut down another 2 or 3 turns. Over
compression of the putty or allowing the pickup itself to come into contact with the cone surface will
make the pickup trebly and extremely harsh.
Installing the Jack on an RG-03 Player
You have the option of permanently installing the supplied jack as an endpin jack or, if you don’t wish to drill a hole through the
butt or side of the instrument, the jack may be hung from an existing tailpiece screw or strap button.
Endpin Jack
1) Remove the existing strap button. If the strap button screw also functioned to hold the tailpiece in place, then reinstall the screw
without the strap button (as shown in fig 3).
2) Measure the actual depth of your resonator cone (it is generally in the range of 2""). Allowing for the amount that the resonator
cone is recessed into the top (usually about 1/8" to 1/4"), add that to the depth figure for the cone (usual total 2 1/4"). Add extra 1/2"
for clearance and measure down from the top of the instrument about 2 3/4".
3) Drill a pilot hole through the end block approximately 3/16" in diameter in the area you wish to place the end pin jack.
4) Using a fluted burr, chamfer the edges of the hole so that you will not damage the finish of the instrument when you use the
larger sizes of bits required.
5) Drill through the guitar end block using a 3/8" bit and re-chamfer the hole. Repeat drilling with a 31/64" bit to complete the drilling
operations.
6) Strip back one inch of the outer insulation of the pickup lead wire exposing the outer shield (ground) and the inner light colored
wire (positive). Solder the positive and the ground leads to the endpin jack as shown in fig 4.
7) Remove the Outer strap button, and the small nut and washer from the endpin jack or preamp. Reach
inside the instrument and poke the endpin jack part through the drilled hole in the end block. The jack should
protrude approximately 5/16" outside the guitar. Reinstall the flat washer and small nut.
8) Insert a small allen wrench or other small round (like a drill bit) through the 2 holes in the end of the endpin
jack to keep the jack assembly from rotating; tighten the small nut.
Hanging Jack
1) Drill a hole 5/32" (0.070") in diameter on the face of the instrument directly under the tailpiece. The hole
should be placed about 1 ½" from the end of the guitar so that it misses the end block.
2) Take an old guitar string and insert it down through the hole in the top. Tape the end of the pickup lead wire
to the string and pull it back through the hole.
3) Strip back one inch of the outer insulation of the pickup lead wire exposing the outer shield (ground) and the
inner light colored wire (positive). Solder the positive and the ground leads to the endpin jack as shown in fig 4.
4) Place the clip around the jack and install the clip as shown in fig 5.
Finishing Up
1) Prior to reinstalling the resonator assembly, the supplied wire clips should be installed in the well area to
hold down any excess wire.
2) At this point it is suggested that you reinstall the resonator into the instrument (without the cover plate).
Reinstall the highest treble string and lowest bass string and tune to pitch. Plug into your amp. Check that the quality
of the sound is good and that string output is balanced. If everything is fine, take off the strings and remove the
resonator from the instrument. Important: Put a small bit of masking tape or scotch tape or a drop of glue on the
exposed part of the mounting screw so that the nut cannot back off or rattle.
3) Reinstall the resonator assembly and the cover plate.
4) Restring, tune, and check.
Warranty
We warrant to the original purchaser that our pickups are free from defects in materials and workmanship for a period
of 2 (two) years. Should a product fail to perform properly within the specified warranty period you may contact your
dealer or Schatten Design for instructions. No product will be accepted for warranty return by Schatten Design without
a Return Authorization number
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