Sealife DC1400 Limited Edition Pink User manual

Great Pictures Made Easy
with SeaLife DC1400 UW Camera
Capture the Magic
As a scuba diver, you have encountered coral reefs teaming with strange
creatures and vibrant colors that appear as if they were from another planet.
You know what it’s like to float effortlessly without gravity. You have learned
to use your eyes to see and experience the underwater world, one of the
greatest miracles on earth.
You capture these treasured moments with your underwater camera to relive
the adventure and share your experiences with friends and family. Of course,
there is no better way to tell your story than with pictures and videos
As the manufacturers of SeaLife, we believe that an easy to use underwater
camera will help millions of divers and non-divers to experience and see a
part of our world which is essential to our survival. And we hope that you will
enrich and enlighten your life by capturing valuable impressions in the
underwater world with your SeaLife Camera.
Over the last 20+ years of developing underwater cameras and lighting systems, we have received
countless pictures - some great ones that we post on the SeaLife website Photo/Video Gallery, and some
not-so-great pictures along with your request for help and advice.
While underwater photography certainly has its challenges, we found that most “bad” pictures are the result
of not following a few simple and basic principles. When you understand and apply these basic principles,
your results will greatly improve.
Photo by Karl Lauderback Photo by Nadia Aly
Photo by Annie Crawley

Contents
I. Know your basic camera settings
II. Underwater basics
a. Light and color underwater
b. Effects of water refraction
c. Backscatter or “Marine Snow”
III. Restoring lost colors
a. Use the SeaLife Digital Flash and/or Photo-Video light accessories
b. Use SeaLife underwater color correction modes
IV. Taking underwater pictures without an External Flash or Photo-Video light
a. Set the camera’s scene mode to Dive Mode [or Snorkel mode]
b. Using the built-in flash
c. Fine tuning the White Balance setting
V. Taking underwater pictures with an external flash
a. Setting the camera’s scene mode to Ext Flash
b. Exposure Control: Adjusting the camera for darker or brighter pictures.
c. Exposure control –Adjusting the external flash brightness:
d. Using a diffuser for better Close-up pictures
e. Edge Lighting:
f. Color and White Balance when using an external flash accessory
VI. Taking underwater pictures with a photo-video light
VII. Focusing tips for taking sharp pictures
VIII. Basic tips on taking great pictures
a. Control you buoyancy
b. Crystal clear water
c. Shoot up, not down
d. Pictures of your buddy
e. Framing for your subject
f. Silhouettes against the bright water surface
IX. Underwater video
X. Take your photography to the next level

I. Know your basic camera settings
This guide will teach you the basic principles of underwater photography and how to take great
underwater pictures with your SeaLife camera. Before you start, you should read through the
camera’s instruction manual and become familiar with the basic camera settings and button
controls.
Download the Instruction Manuals here

II. Underwater basics
There are a few important differences between underwater and land photography that you should
know.
a. Light and Color –Water is about 800 times denser than air. As you descend deeper into the
water, the light conditions become darker. The water absorbs red, orange and yellow color,
which makes everything look blue.
The above diagram demonstrates the effect water has on light and color as depth increases.
That is why many underwater pictures turn out blue. There are a couple of ways to restore lost
colors, which are explained later in this guide.
Coral, sponges and most other
underwater sea creatures are bursting
with colors. Brilliant reds, vivid orange
and bright yellows highlight the
underwater world. These intense colors
help to camouflage the sea creatures.
Since red and yellow colors are
absorbed by the water, the sea
creatures appear colorless unless you
bring a light with you and uncover the
hidden treasure of colors.

b. Effects of water refraction –Water has a magnifying effect. Objects underwater appear 33%
larger and closer than they actually are. It tricks you into underestimating your shooting distance.
One important rule for achieving colorful and sharp underwater pictures is to keep your shooting
distance within 6ft/2m.
This Angelfish appears 2ft/60cm away but is
actually 3ft/1m away This fish appears inside of 6ft/2m, but is actually 8ft/2.4m away
The SeaLife Fisheye Wide Angle Lens
compensates the underwater magnifying effect
and allows you to get closer to the subject and
still fit everything in the picture.
Photo by Dan Johnson
c. Backscatter –No matter how clear it may look underwater, there are always plankton and tiny
particles suspended in the water. You may not see the particles with your eyes, until you light
them up with a flash or photo-video-dive light. The small white dots that appear in your
underwater pictures are called “backscatter”The closer the flash or light is positioned to the
camera lens, the more backscatter you will see.

The external flash is positioned very close to the camera lens. Notice all the
backscatter in the top of the image
Here the external flash is positioned away from the camera lens. There is
practically no backscatter.

The above two pictures demonstrate why you should not use the camera’s internal flash unless
you are taking close-up macro (within 12”/30cm) pictures in crystal clear waters. The camera’s
internal flash is not very powerful and positioned too close to the camera’s lens, so it’s only
useful for close-up pictures.
DC1400 shown with Flash Diffuser attached
Underwater photography using an external flash (strobe) or photo-video light results in the brightest,
sharpest most colorful pictures, with minimal or no backscatter because the light source is
positioned away from the camera lens.
Figure 1 Figure 2
Positioning the flash or light next to the lens (Figure 1) illuminates the front of the particles facing the
lens. Positioning strobe away from lens (Figure 2) illuminates the sides of particles not visible to the
lens.
How to avoid backscatter:
Avoid using the camera’s built-in flash unless shooting close-up macro pictures in clear water.
Use an external flash or photo-video light positioned away from the lens, which produces the
brightest, sharpest and most colorful pictures while minimizing backscatter.
Keep your shooting distance to 10% of your visibility. If the visibility is 30ft/10m, limit your
shooting distance to 3ft/1m.
Don’t stir up the sand and debris on the bottom. Control your buoyancy.

III. Restoring lost colors
Blue pictures are the most common complaint among beginning underwater photographers, but it’s
easy to improve. Here are two primary methods to bring back the lost colors absorbed by the water:
Method 1: Use the SeaLife Sea Dragon Digital Flash and/or Photo-Video light accessory (sold
separately)
Taken without flash - image lacks color Taken with flash to reveal the vibrant colors
From left to right: SeaLife DC1400 Sea Dragon Pro Set (SL735); SeaLife Sea Dragon 2500 Photo-Video light; SeaLife
DC1400 Sea Dragon Pro Duo Set (SL736) with flash and 2000 lumen photo-video mounted on Flex-Connect dual tray.
What’s the difference between an external flash and photo-video light?
A flash can only be used for pictures, not video. A photo-video light can be used for pictures and
videos.
An external flash is typically brighter and has longer range than a photo-video light. The Sea Dragon
Digital Flash has an effective range of about 6ft, while the Sea Dragon 2500 Photo-Video light is
about 3 to 4 ft, depending on visibility and ambient lighting conditions.
A photo-video light is easier to use than a flash because the camera “sees” the effect of the light and
automatically adjusts exposure accordingly. What you see is what you get. With a flash, the camera
won’t see the light until the flash fires, which typically requires some fine-tuning of the flash
brightness to optimize image exposure.
A photo-video light can also be used as a focusing light to assist the camera’s auto focus system.

Method 2: Use SeaLife underwater color-correction modes
If you do not have an external flash or photo-video light, you can use the DC1400 camera’s built in
color-correction filter to restore lost colors. Set the camera to Dive Mode for depths greater than
25ft (8m) or Snorkel mode for shallower water. Dive mode will add a little more red and yellow to the
image than Snorkel mode. These color correction modes work well in water depths less than about
60ft, where the ambient light conditions are not so dark. At greater depths, there is a complete
absence of reds and yellows, so color correction modes/filters are not so effective. An external flash
or photo-video light is the most effective way to restore color at any depth or ambient light condition.
Normal underwater picture at 25ft without Dive Mode With Dive Mode color correction - restores lost colors
IV. Taking underwater pictures without an external flash or photo-video light
Now that you have learned how water affects underwater pictures and how to restore lost colors,
let’s learn how to take the best underwater pictures without an external light source. You may skip
this section if you are using a SeaLife external flash or photo-video light.
a. Set the camera’s scene mode to Dive Mode [or Snorkel Mode] –When the camera is in Dive
Mode, the first thing you will notice is that the viewing image on the LCD display appears red in
color. That’s the effect of the underwater color correction filter. Underwater, the viewing image
will look natural. In Dive Mode, the camera automatically turns the FLASH OFF to help avoid
backscatter.
Picture taken at 25ft/8m without Dive Mode Picture taken at 25ft/8m with Dive Mode

b. Built-in Flash setting –We recommend keeping the camera’s built-in flash OFF when taking
underwater pictures. Turning the flash ON will increase the backscatter and cancel the Dive
Mode color-correction effect.
c. Fine-tuning the White Balance color-correction Setting –The White balance (WB) setting will
compensate for undesirable color casts, so that white objects appear white in your picture. You
can correct for the underwater “blue” effect by selecting the appropriate WB. The White Balance
setting is located in the camera’s MENU. Here are some common ones you will find in your
SeaLife camera:
oAuto White Balance –The camera will do its best to automatically detect what the correct WB
balance should be, but this will not work underwater. Only use the Auto WB for land pictures
or in very sunny, bright conditions within depths of 10 feet.
o<25ft/8m –Most effective for shallow water at depths less than 25 ft/8m.
o>25ft/8m –Most effective for deeper water at depths greater than 25 ft/8m. Note: In dark
conditions or depths greater than about 60ft/18m, the color correction will not be as effective
and may result in dark or grainy pictures –consider using an external flash or photo-video
light accessory, which works well at any depth.
o“Green Water” or “Blue Water” –Ocean and fresh water will take on a greenish color if it
contains a high concentration of algae. If the water contains little or no algae, it will take on a
blue color tone. Just look at the water from the surface and you should be able to see if the
color tone of the water is blue or green.
oManual white balance –The color tone of water varies depending your depth or local diving
conditions. You can achieve near perfect color correction by manually adjusting the camera’s
white balance. Remember that the color tone will change as you change depth. Your
instruction manual will provide detailed instructions. It’s really not that difficult once you have
done it a few times.

V. Taking underwater pictures with an external flash
Now that you have learned how water affects underwater pictures and how to restore lost colors,
let’s learn how to take some great pictures. This section covers how to take the best pictures with
the external flash. If you are not using the optional external flash, read the previous section IV.
a. Setting the camera’s scene mode to Ext Flash Auto –The Ext Flash Auto Mode is a
SeaLife exclusive exposure program that takes properly exposed pictures when using one or two
external strobes.
NOTE: If combining external flash with a photo-video light, select Ext Flash + Light scene mode
and continue on with the following information.
b. Exposure Control: Adjusting the camera for darker or brighter pictures
In Ext Flash Mode, push the flash button to select between Far Flash ( ), Macro Flash
( ) and Normal Flash (no icon). This will adjust the camera’s exposure program and
produce darker or brighter pictures.

Far Flash - Sets the camera exposure to take brighter pictures. This is ideal for longer
shooting distances beyond 6ft / 2m.
Macro Flash - Sets the camera exposure to take darker pictures and prevents over-
flashing close-up subjects. This is ideal for close-up distances within 3ft / 1m shooting distance.
Normal Flash [No icon] –Sets the camera exposure for normal brightness. This is ideal for
shooting distances from 2ft / 60cm to 6ft / 2m.
Macro Flash Normal Flash Far Flash
c. Exposure control –Adjusting the external flash brightness: You can make more fine-tune
adjustments to the picture brightness (or darkness) by adjusting your flash.
Adjust the brightness control on the back of the strobe
head.
Turning the brightness control dial to a lower setting
will reduce the flash brightness and result in a darker
picture. This is very useful to prevent over-flashing the
picture.
Turning the brightness control dial to a higher setting
will increase the flash brightness and result in a
brighter picture.
100% power 75% flash power 50% flash power

d. Using a diffuser for better close-up pictures
A diffuser snaps onto the flash head to help soften the light, prevent over-exposure of close-up
subjects, and results in richer color balance of pictures. The Digital Pro Flash Diffuser (Item
SL9618) is available as an optional accessory for the Digital Pro Flash (Item SL961), and the
Sea Dragon Flash (Item SL963) includes a diffuser.
e. Edge Lighting: Direct flash head slightly away from the subject –Aim the flash head away
from the center of the target so just the outer edge of the flash reaches the subject. You can also
point the flash at a nearby object and bounce the light towards the subject.
Strobe aimed at center of picture frame Strobe aimed at edges of picture frame
f. Color and White Balance when using an external flash accessory –There is no need to make
any color corrections when the camera is set to Ext Flash Mode. The external flash accessory
produces “white” light which produces colors that match sunlight. The default white balance
when shooting in Ext Flash modes is also called “Ext Flash”, but it’s also okay to use Daylight
white balance depending on your personal preference.

VI. Taking underwater pictures with a Photo-Video Light
When shooting with one or two Sea Dragon Photo-Video lights (i.e. no external flash), set the
camera’s scene mode to Ext Light .
In this mode, the camera’s flash setting will be turned OFF and the white balance setting will be “Ext
Flash” to match the color temperature of the light. It’s also okay to use Daylight white balance
depending on your personal preference. When shooting beyond the effective range of the photo-
video light, set the white balance to one of the color-correction modes (See section IV.c)
Controlling the image exposure is easier when using photo-video light(s) because the camera
automatically adjusts exposure based on the ambient lighting conditions and amount of illumination
emitted by the light. What you see on the LCD display before taking the picture is how the picture
exposure will turn out. Just make sure to limit your shooting distance to 3ft to 4ft depending on
visibility and ambient lighting. The closer your shooting distance the better the results.
VII. Focusing tips for taking sharp pictures
The second most common cause for “bad” results is out-of-focus or blurred pictures. The camera
will automatically focus from 1”(2.5cm) to infinity, provided that the correct focus setting is selected
and that there is enough light for the camera to “see” the subject. There are four primary focus
settings useful for underwater photography and videos:
Auto: Camera will automatically focus from 6in / 15cm to infinity.
At 5X zoom, the focus range increases to 2ft / 60cm to infinity.
This focus mode is ideal for most underwater applications.
Macro: Camera will automatically focus from 2in / 5cm to 2ft / 60cm.
At 5X zoom, the focus range increases to 2ft / 60cm to infinity.

This focus mode is ideal for close-up applications and necessary when
shooting with SeaLife SL975 Fisheye lens.
Super Macro: Camera will automatically focus from 1in / 2.5cm to infinity and lock the
zoom at 3X. This focus mode is ideal for close-up pictures of tiny sea
critters. It may also be used when shooting with SL975 Fisheye lens.
Infinity: Camera locks focus at infinity, so anything beyond 2ft / 60cm is in focus.
The shutter response (lag) time is the fastest when set to Infinity focus.
Ideal for shooting larger objects that are farther away. For example,
sharks, whales, rays, wrecks, other divers, etc.
Tips on shooting sharp pictures:
1. The camera will focus on the subject located in the center of the picture frame. Align the
focusing square located in the center of the LCD over the subject. Subjects outside this square
may not be in focus.
2. Before taking a picture or recording video, push and hold the shutter button half way to focus the
camera on the subject. The focus frame in the center of the LCD display will disappear for a
second and reappear as green or red. A green focus frame means the camera accurately
determines the focus. A red focus frame means the camera did not accurately determine the
correct focus - make sure focus setting is correct and that there is sufficient lighting.
A green focus frame indicates the auto focus is good. A red frame indicates the camera is not focused on the subject.
3. In order for the camera to quickly and accurately focus, there must be sufficient light to illuminate
the subject. The camera cannot focus on something it does not “see”. In low light conditions,
use the SeaLife Sea Dragon Photo-Video Light accessory to help the camera focus in low light
conditions and produce brighter, more colorful results.
4. About Quick Shot mode: When Quick Shot is set to ON, the camera takes a picture without
using the auto focus. This will speed up the camera’s shutter response time (i.e. shutter lag) to
about 0.3 seconds. The focus locks to the shooting distance of the LAST picture taken before
turning on Quick Shot. Here’s an example of how to use Quick Shot:

a. With Quick Shot turned OFF, set the camera to normal auto focus and take a picture of
something at 3ft/1m shooting distance.
b. Now set the Quick Shot to ON - The camera focus will remain locked a shooting distance of
3ft until Quick Shot is turned off or camera is powered off.
c. Note: When powering off the camera, the Quick Shot focus distance is not saved and will be
set to infinity focus. When Quick Shot is ON, the focus frame on the camera’s LCD display
will not turn red or green.
Quick Shot mode is useful when taking a series of pictures at the same shooting distance and
shutter response time is an important factor. Remember to turn Quick Shot OFF if you want to
resume using the camera’s auto focus.
Quick Shot mode is also very useful when shooting with the SeaLife Fisheye wide angle lens
accessory (SL975) because the lens has an extremely wide depth of field. Set the camera to
macro focus and take a picture of something at 3ft/1m shooting distance, which represent
“infinity” focus distance. Now, turn Quick Shot mode ON. The camera’s auto focus is now locked
to “Infinity” focus range. All subsequent pictures taken at shooting distance of 18”/45cm to
infinity will be in focus. Without the fisheye lens, the focus range would be 2ft to infinity.
When shooting close-up pictures using the macro focus, the depth field is very narrow. For
example, when the camera focuses on a subject 5” / 10cm, other objects positioned behind or in
front of the subject will be out of focus. You can use the optional wide angle lens accessory to
increase your depth of field at close-up shooting distance.
Always take several pictures of subjects, particularly when shooting close-up, to make sure you
get a sharp picture.
For more details, refer to the instruction manual of the camera you’re using or of the flash or light
you have.

VIII. Basic tips on taking great pictures
Now that you know the major effects of water on shooting underwater pictures and how to adjust the
camera controls, let’s learn some basic tips on taking great pictures.
a. Control you buoyancy –Be very calm and patient, and let that curious fish get closer and
closer. Get up-current from a good spot and just drift motionless along with your camera in ready
position. To stay in a camera-ready waiting position, approach your subject facing the current.
Photo by Stephen Frink
b. Crystal clear water –No matter what equipment you use, good underwater pictures require
crystal clear water. Keep your shooting distance to 1/10 of the visibility. For example, if the
visibility is 40ft / 12m, keep your shooting distance inside of 4ft / 1.2m.
Photo by Dan Johnson

c. Avoid backscatter - Don’t stir up the sand and debris on the bottom. Avoid using the camera’s
built-in flash. The built-in flash is very close to the camera lens and illuminates all the particles in
front of the lens. If using an external flash accessory, aim the flash towards the outer edge of the
picture from, not towards, the center of the image.
Photo by Bjorn Harms
d. Shoot up, not down. Get some of the blue water in the picture. Colorful coral in the foreground
will stand out against a mystic blue background. These color contrasts will add depth to your
pictures. Shooting down normally results in poor contrast between the subject and background.
Photo by Kurt Amsler (Aiming up) Photo by Liz Logan (Aiming down)
Tip: Try and capture rising air bubbles to indicate motion.

e. When taking pictures of your buddy, he or she should be no more than 6ft / 2m away for a
good picture. Use the wide-angle lens accessory for group shots, so you can get everyone in the
picture and still keep your shooting distance within 6ft / 2m.
Photo by Dan Johnson
f. A photo without much color, such as a silhouette against the blue water background, can
make a dramatic image..
Photo by Mathias Koch

IX. Underwater video
Taking video with your SeaLife digital camera adds the element of motion and action to your
underwater adventure.
DC1400 Camera with Sea Dragon 2000
Underwater Photo/Video/Dive Light.
Here are some tips to shooting great video:
a. Hold the camera steady. Hold the video camera steady on a particular scene. Avoid panning
left, right, up and down unless you are following a subject. If you must move the camera, do it
very slowly. Moving the camera around can make you feel sea sick when viewing the video on
your computer or TV. Take note of how Hollywood movie productions rarely move the camera.
They normally stop recording, move the camera to another angle and start recording. Later you
can splice the two videos together.
b. Push the shutter button half way down until the green square appears and the camera is
focused. Then push the shutter button the rest of the way down to begin shooting video. Once
the video begins, the focusing remains locked, so maintain your shooting distance to the subject.
c. Take short video clips. 10 to 15 seconds per video clip is plenty. It’s better to shoot a series of
shorter video clips than one long one. You can splice the video clips together on your computer.
d. There is a lot of video editing software available. Before you go out and buy anything, check
your computer for video editing software that you may already own. Windows Movie Maker or
Apple iMovie are two very good video editing tools that are easy to learn.