Ship Harbor Yacht Charters Mary K User manual

OPERATION MANUAL
Mary K
Welcome Aboard!
We are happy that you have chosen Ship Harbor Yacht Charters and
the vessel Mary K for your vacation. We hope you enjoy your cruising
experience in the lovely islands of the Pacific Northwest.
Mary K was named after the wife of the original boat owners, Ed &
Mary Smith. They were the original owners who purchase the first of
the 49ft Lord Nelson Victory Tugs made. Only eight 49’s were made.
The hull design is based on a Maine lobster boat and was first applied
to a 37 ft boat in 1982.
This manual will help you become more familiar with your boat. If you
have any further questions, about the boat or your itinerary, please do
not hesitate to ask the SHYC staff.
Remember our vessels are non-smoking boats. But please feel free to
smoke out on deck.
Bon Voyage!
The Ship Harbor Yacht Charters Staff

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TABLE OF CONTENTS
Page
Boat Operation 3
Engine Inspection
Start-Up & Shutdown
Getting Underway
Cruising & Docking
Fueling
Fuel management
Anchoring
Boat Electrical 7
A.C. (Shore) Power
Inverter
Generator
D.C. (House) Systems
Batteries
Sanitation System 10
Marine Toilet
Holding Tank(s)
Water Systems 12
Fresh Water Tanks & Pumps
Hot Water
Shower
Galley 13
Propane
Refrigeration/ Ice Maker
Stove/ Oven
Heating Systems 14
Diesel Heater (DC)
Electronics 15
VHF Radio, Depth Sounder, Radar
GPS/Plotter
Entertainment
Stereo / CD Player
CD Radio
TV
Dinghy/ Outboard 16
Safety 17
Cruising Restrictions
M.O. B.
Dead Heads/ Debris
Crabbing/Fishing

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BOAT OPERATION
Operation manuals can be found under the lid of the “navigation station”in the
pilothouse. Lift the lid and then the cover with the finger hole in the bottom to find
the files.
Engine Inspection
Remember your “WOBBS” every morning. (Water (Coolant), Oil, Bilges (Inspect and
Pump-out), Belts, and Sea Strainer. Check the level of COOLANT in the expansion
tanks. Check the level of your engine oil with the dipstick. Your dipstick is located on
the starboard side of the engine. Look at the two etch marks on the dipstick that
indicate the proper level. Note the etch marks are different from the normal lines
engraved on the dipstick. DO NOT OVERFILL! Only fill if oil levels are below the ½
mark. Use SAE 30 for the engine and SAE 15-40 for the genset. Check the general
condition of the hoses and belts. Check the generator as well.
Ensure the valves on each RAW WATER THRU-HULL are OPEN! (Lever in-line with
valve). Observe through the glass of each sea strainer for debris. If necessary,
close the thru-hull, open the strainer lid (wrench in the top tray of toolbox), clean
out debris, and reassemble. REOPEN the Thru-hull! After starting go aft and
confirm that water is periodically gushing out the exhaust.
Start Up
Having finished your inspection, start your engine.Ensure that Gearshift is in neutral
or the engine will not start (neutral lockout). Insert the key into the ignition and
turn it clockwise.
Turn the key clockwise until the engine alarm sounds and pre-heat the engine. After
5-10 seconds turn the key fully to engage the engine. If the engine does not turn
over, move the gearshift slightly while turning the key until the engine engages. If
the engine cranks slowly, check the condition of your batteries at the electrical panel.
If the battery is low, turn the top Battery Parallel Switch to position “both” to connect
the windlass battery. The switch is the top of three switches located in the engine
room on the port side of the engine room access door. After the engine has started,
return Battery Parallel Switch to “1”.
After the engine starts, warm it up at about 1000rpms for about 5 minutes. Faster
idle in neutral can be attained by pilling the level outward from the hub. Observe
your gauge readings. Oil pressure reads around 65 psi and water temp around 175
degrees. Engine temperature should rise very slowly. Also go aft and check to
confirm that water is periodically gushing out the exhaust.
Note: If water temp.is high or oil pressure low, shut down engine and look for
problem. Was there a lack of water exiting with exhaust? Are thru-hulls open and
debris cleared from sea-strainer? If problem keeps occurring, call SHYC Service.

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Shut Down
Before shutting down, let engine idle for about 5 minutes letting it cool. Ensure the
gearshift is in the neutral position and the throttle is in idle. Turn off the engine by
turning the key to the left.
Getting Underway
Disconnect the shore power cord (see AC Power next page). Close portholes,
windows, and hatches. Turn on VHF and electronics. Assign crewmembers to their
tasks. Once outside marina, have crew members bring in fenders and put lines away.
1100 RPM will get you a no-wake speed of around 5 knots
Cruising
Engage the gearshift by pushing the throttle/shift lever forward from center to the
first detent. This leaves the engine at idle but in gear. Reverse by moving the lever
back from center. Slowly come up to cruising speed of 1700 rpms. If you run at
1700 rpms, you will cruise at approx. 7 knots, using only 4-5 gallons of diesel/hour.
Your speed may vary depending on weight, load, and weather conditions. Watch
your speed on the GPS as you adjust the throttle.
Note: Avoid high engine speeds as it causes the engine to overheat causing damage
as well as high fuel consumption.
Docking
During docking, give clear instructions to the crew on what you will expect of them
i.e. with lines and fenders. There is a hands free intercom for two in the navigation
station drawer. Be sure to clip this on so you don’t lose it overboard.
While moving slowly towards the dock, generally center the wheel. At slow speeds
the helm is slow to respond. One must anticipate the wind and current. Bow
Thruster may be used as needed. Use short bursts. Continuous use causes
cavitation and loss of effectiveness. Be aware it cannot overcome much more than a
light breeze. In addition, note that the left-handed propeller will pull to the
starboard when in reverse. This can be used to slow the boat and pull the stern into
the dock.
Note that at slow speeds the boat makes left turns more easily. One can turn the
boat to the port almost in its own length by applying hard left rudder in conjunction
with bursts of forward and reverse thrust. But you cannot do that to the starboard.
Fueling Up
At the full mark the gauges are quite accurate. Use them to judge when to stop but
note they do react slowly and may lag behind if you fill quickly. When the gauge is
exactly over the full mark there should be 2” of air space left. They are less accurate
when partially full because the tanks follow the curve of the hull. In rough terms the
¾ mark results in 70% full, the ½ mark is 40% and the ¼ mark is 10%. Never run

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below the ¼ mark. While there is still useable fuel, rough seas or even big rolling
wakes could cause the intake to take in air.
Mary K has 6 tanks, 3 each side. You will see 3 filler caps each side near the aft end
of the cabin that coincide with the tanks. You can also see the tank vents located on
the aft corner of the cabin. As one might expect the port vent is for the 3 port tanks
and the starboard vent is for the starboard tanks. As you fill you can hear the
gurgling at the vents. Typically, the starboard aft tank (250gal) is left empty. The
port side aft tank (#5) supplies the Hurricane Heater. Normally this is left at the ¼
full mark. The numbering of the tanks is as follows: port side 1 forward(150gal), 3
center(150gal), 5 aft(250gal). Starboard side 2 forward(150gal), 4 center(150gal),
6 aft(250gal). You will note the tank sender switch is laid out similarly as is the fuel
manifold in the engine room. When you switch tanks be sure to switch the tanks
switch in the pilot house.
Open the filler caps located on either side of the aft deck with the deck-fitting key
kept in the drawer on the starboard side in the aft end of the main cabin. MAKE
SURE YOU HAVE DIESEL!Make sure it is going into the right deck fill! DOUBLE-
CHECK! Before pumping, have your oil/fuel sorb ready to soak up any spilled fuel.
You should have a rough idea of how many gallons you will need, but have someone
check the fuel gauge frequently by turning on the “instrument”switch on the DC
panel. Be certain to switch to the correct tank.
Put Diesel nozzle into the deck fitting and pump slowly listening to the sound of the
flow. Pumping too fast may not allow excess air to escape, which will lead to spillage
out the vent, particularly tanks 1 & 2. As the tank fills, the sound will rise in pitch or
gurgle. Pay attention to the vent that it does not spill fuel into the water. Top off
carefully, catching any spillage with your sorb. Fill the forward tanks first, then the
center tanks and last, if they are used the aft tanks. The reason for this is the filler
hose to the forward tanks (1 & 2) is very flat. If you fill the aft tanks first the stern
will settle and flatten the hose even more. If you have all day feel free to reverse
the process.
Check your gauges! Clean up any spatter and wash hands thoroughly.
Fuel management
Tanks 1,2,3,4 are normally used for the engine and genset. At 150gal each and a
consumption of 5gal/hr you can run for 120 hrs and this would give you an 840
nautical mile range if you used every drop. Because you never want to run a diesel
dry, a single tank with a reasonable reserve will yield about 25 hrs at cruise. Tank 5
is dedicated to the heater but can also be used for the engine and genset as can tank
6. Each holds 250gals and would extend the range to 1500 nm. To achieve greater
range, it will be necessary to switch tanks. The fuel manifold is located forward of
the engine on the starboard side. As you look at it, to the left is the supply side and
the right is the return side. Switching tanks is a simple matter of opening the valve
to the new tank on both the supply and return and closing the valve on each for the
old tank. Never use different supply and return tanks unless you intend to transfer
fuel between tanks and are monitoring the tanks closely. Finally change the tank
gauge switch in the pilot house.
Emergency Steering
Should the steering fail there is an emergency tiller located under the settee in the
main cabin. On the aft deck there is an access plate which can be removed with the

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aid of the tool kept in the drawer on the starboard side in the aft end of the main
cabin. This tool is the same as the one used for the sea strainers.

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Anchoring
Your primary working anchor, a #8 Forfjord Safety Anchor weighing 93#, is attached
to 350 of rode. The port anchor is the working anchor. The starboard anchor is a
spare. To use it one would have to switch it to the starboard chain. The deck
switches are the two on the port side. Note the arrow that indicates the chain going
outward (down) or inward (up). There is a single switch on the starboard side which
is inoperative. The deck switches are always active which is why the flip up covers
must be used to protect the switches when not actively raising or lowering the
anchor. In addition, there is a control in the pilothouse which is turned on with the
anchor switch in the electrical panel.
The anchor windlass runs off the engine starter battery. Be sure to always have your
engines running while raising or lowering the anchor.
To lower the anchor, use the emergency handle found under the chart drawers on
the starboard side of the pilot house to release the anchor brake plate and to release
the ratchet pawl. Use the deck switch or the control in the pilothouse to lower the
anchor. Note the white marks on the chain every 50 ft. Also, the control in the
pilothouse will show the amount of rode released. I like to lower the anchor a few
feet from the deck switch and then use the inside controller while a crewmember
monitors things from the deck. To hold the anchor, use the emergency handle to
slightly raise the anchor so the plate can be inserted. Do not use the pawl or
windlass gears to carry the load.
To raise the anchor, press the deck switch. When the anchor finally comes into its
final position you may need to flip the anchor flukes or rotate the anchor with the
boathook. Use the engine as needed to move the boat forward, toward the anchor.
Do not use the windlass to winch the boat toward the anchor. Do not use the
pilothouse control to raise the anchor into its’final position. The operator must
monitor the last few feet to confirm the position of the flukes and the actual distance
left. If the anchor fouls or the windlass stalls or is nearly stalled use engine power to
free the anchor
If the windlass fails, you can raise the anchor by hand, albeit very slowly. There
is an emergency handle under the chart drawers on the starboard side of the pilot
house. It is inserted in the notches under the chain wheel. Move it and reset the
pawl and repeat. It will be a long tedious process.
See page 9 in the White Binder for further anchoring instructions.

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BOAT ELECTRICAL
The electrical system is divided into two distribution systems: 110 volt AC and 12
volt DC. The systems are controlled from the electrical panel located on the port
side of the helm and the battery switches located in the engine room.
When not connected to shore power your batteries provide most of your electrical
power. Therefore, the use of onboard electricity needs to be monitored very
carefully. Turn off electrical devices when they are not being used (lights,
instruments, etc.). note that some AC circuits are not powered by the inverter. A
light by the breaker shows if they have power when you switch them on.
When on shore power all circuits are available. But that doesn’t mean you can run
everything in sight. You will be limited to 30A.
110 Volt AC (Alternating Current)
Shore Power supports all AC equipment and receptacles on board as well as the
battery charger.
To connect to shore power, plug the power cord into the boat, either port or
starboard side, and then into the dock receptacle. Check your power rating voltage
and plug size of the dock receptacle (i.e. 30amp, 50amp etc.) If necessary, add an
adaptor located in the lower drawer, starboard side of the settee in the pilot house.
Secure the cord around the shore power electrical receptacle and off the bow (i.e.
wrap around bowline a few times) turn the dock power breaker on.
On the boat, turn the shore power switches to the proper position (1 is port side, 2 is
starboard side) breaker on at the electrical panel. Turn on appropriate breakers for
battery charger, refrigeration, water heater, and outlets. Watch your voltmeter for
load. If the load exceeds the voltage, it will pop the breaker. If this occurs, wait to
turn on one of your systems (i.e. water heater) until the use of power decreases.
Inverter
The inverter converts 12V-DC power from the house batteries into110V-AC power for
the 110 receptacle plugs (i.e. microwave) when the boat is disconnected from shore
power. The inverter is located in the engine room starboard side. The Inverter is
powered by the house batteries located in the engine room. The amount of DC
power is limited to the capacity of these batteries so use it very sparingly!!! This
means use of the toaster, hair dryer, microwave, coffee maker etc. must be limited!
When those items are to be used, turn on the generator.
A control panel is located in the galley to the right of the sink. Leave the inverter in
the on position. When on shore power the inverter becomes the battery charger.
Generator
To start your generator, first check that the fluids have been checked and the raw
water thru-hull is open. The generator controls are located the bottom of the panel.

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Pre-heat the generator for about 20-30 seconds. Then, while pre-heating, turn the
switch to start. Hold the switch in that position for about 5 seconds until the engine
catches. If the generator is cold you may have to hold the pre-heat switch on for a
short while after the generator starts. Make sure your water and exhaust is exiting
at the stern.
After the generator is running, turn your AC distribution switches to generator. Note
if the phase light is flashing and if so switch the phase by pressing the button. Turn
on your AC systems as you would when hooking up to shore power. If you have
been anchored a while, turn on the battery charger first for 10 minutes. Too much
load such as water heater, stove top etc. may overload the system.
To turn the generator off, first take off the load by turning the AC breakers off. Turn
off the main AC distribution switch. Last, kill the generator by holding switch in the
off position until it dies.
House 12-volt System
Batteries.
Six battery banks support your 12V-DC system: #1 Engine Start, #2 Windlass, #3
House Battery Bank, #4 Boat Crane, #5 Generator Starter and #6 Bow Thruster.
In normal operation all battery switches are in position #1. See the labels for
information. On alternate settings
Two battery switches are located on the port side of the access door on the front
bulkhead in the engine room. Normally you will leave the switches in the #1
position. Note: Changing the position of the battery switches with the engine
running will cause damage! Only change positions with the engine off!
1. The top switch is the starter / windlass switch. Use #1 position per the label.
2. The bottom switch is the house battery / davit switch. Use #1 position per the
label.
One switch is located on the starboard side near the inverter.
A third switch is located aft near the generator battery. 1- connects the generator
battery to the generator. 2- connects the windlass battery to the generator. Both-
connects both batteries to the generator.
A final switch is located on the starboard side in the guest stateroom. It is for the
bow thruster batteries located under the guest berth.
Battery Positions.
Follow the label for switch positions. Typically this means #1 for each
Panel.
Your 12-volt DC panel shows all the systems supported by your batteries (except the
refrigerator/freezer, forward & aft Bilge pumps and the Hurricane heater). Primarily
you will be turning on these breakers for lights, water pressure, electronics, etc.
Bilge pumps will always be left on.

10
While the panel has breakers, a secondary fuse panel is located in the forward
stateroom. It is opened with a key on the main key chain. On the back of the door
there is a chart of the breaker location / size.
The fuse panel for the refrigerator & bilge pumps is in the engine room, port side
forward. Your breakers such as “LPG Control” should be turned off after every use.
When disconnected from shore power, the 12–volt systems will drain the battery
especially when at anchor. Monitor your batteries very carefully. The DC voltmeter
on the DC panel can be switched between your battery banks to measure battery
voltage. Typically, the bank should read from about 13.0 to 14.5 volts when being
charged. While at rest, your voltage will drop as indicated in the figures below.
All your batteries are charged while underway by the alternator. The engine and
house batteries are charged by the battery charger while connected to shore power.
Ensure that the charger is on. The generator will also charge the batteries.
Voltage Battery State of Charge
12.65 volts 100% 12.25 volts 50 %
12.47 volts 75 %11.95 volts 25 %
11.70 volts 0 %

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SANITATION SYSTEM
Marine Toilet
All three heads are electric marine heads. They must have the DC breakers turned
on at the panel for each head. In addition, the water pressure breaker must be
turned on. The head in the master stateroom has a special tank monitor which will
indicate when the holding tank is ½ full and when it is full.
It is imperative that every member of the crew be informed on the proper use of
these marine heads. The valves, openings, and pumps are small and will clog easily.
If the head gets clogged, it is your responsibility! Always flush the head for small
children so you can be certain of what is being flushed. Note: Never put in paper
towels, napkins, sanitary products, household T.P., or food into marine heads. Use
only marine T.P. provided by SHYC.
To flush forward and starboard toilets, Press the flush button. You may add water to
the bowl by pressing the upper button on the switch panel. The toilet in the master
stateroom is more advanced and will add water automatically as it is flushed. Press
the button and wait.
A holding tank vent is located midship on the starboard side. When using the head
you may smell fumes from this.
Holding Tanks
Your sanitation holding tanks holds 50 gallons. Be aware of the rate of waste
production (about 1 gallon/flush). If you overfill your tank, you will break a hose,
clog a vent, or burst the tank which is an indescribable catastrophe! And a very
expensive fix for you. Empty the tank at least every other day to avoid any
problems. Monitor the tank level in the master head
The holding tank is located in the engine room just forward of the engine. There is a
tank watch warning light located master stateroom head. But do not rely on this as
they are subject to being inaccurate.
The holding tank is emptied in one of two ways:
#1 At the pump-out station, remove the deck waste cap located on the portside
just aft of the boarding door. Insert the pump-out nozzle into the waste opening.
Double-check that you have the right deck opening! Note there are two water tank
fill caps nearby. Turn on the pump on the dock and open the valve on the handle of
the hose. When pumping is finished, close lever on handle and turn off pump.
Remove from deck fill.
If there is a fresh water hose on the dock, rinse the tank by adding water for 1-2
minutes. Then re-pump to leave the tank rinsed and clean for the benefit of the next
charterer. This also eliminates any head odors.
#2 The tank’s contents can also be discharged at sea by using the macerator
(Sealand pump). To operate the macerator, open thru-hull located in the starboard
head through the opening in the bulkhead aft of the head and to the left of the
washer. Do not confuse it with the smaller thru-hull for the washer which is located
slightly above the waste valve. Turn on the macerator on the lower right bottom of
the panel. Pump until pitch becomes higher indicating an empty tank. This should

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take about 2 minutes. Discharge can be seen on the starboard side of the boat.
Note: Overboard discharge is only allowed in Canadian waters, and even then there
are restrictions in certain areas. It is illegal to discharge overboard within U.S.
waters.
WATER SYSTEM
Fresh Water Tank/ Pump/ Hot Water Heater
Three fresh water tanks hold 350 gallons and two are located in the engine room and
another is located just forward of the engine room. Observe the water level by
means of a gauge in the pilothouse. Tank 1(150gal) is the port tank, tank 2 (50 gal)
is the forward tank, and tank 3 (150gal) is the starboard tank. To fill the tanks,
remove the deck water fill caps located just forward of the boarding gates on both
sides. There are two on the port side and one on the starboard side. Fill the tank
avoiding flushing debris into the tank. Do not fill water and diesel at the same time!
A manifold to switch tanks is located overhead in the forward end of the engine room
on the port side. On this manifold you can select one of two water pumps and one of
three tanks. In the event of a pump failure open and close the appropriate valves
and flip the switch to the new pump. When you are done be sure to switch tanks on
the gauge in the pilothouse. Only open 1 tank at a time! Wastewater from the sinks
and showers drains overboard through various thru-hulls usually located under the
sinks
The water pressure pump and backup are located in the engine room, port side
forward, over the hot water tank. Activate the pump by turning on the “Water
Pressure” breaker at the DC panel. The pumps are variable flow and will continue to
pump for a brief period after use as they raise the pressure to their cutoff point.
However, if after use, the pump continues to run, you are either out of water or have
an air lock which can be corrected by opening a faucet. If you run out of water, shut
off pump and turn off hot water heater on AC panel. You can cause serious damage
to the heating element.
The hot water heater has a 15-gallon capacity. It is heated 3 ways. First is when
the AC breaker is on while connected to shore power or running the generator.
Second it will heat from the engine when the engine is running at temperature. Last,
it is heated from the boat heater. Do not use the water heater if the water level is
low. The water heater is located on the port side of the engine room at the forward
end. Beware the engine heat or the cabin heater can heat the water much higher
than the normal heater element. Turn the hot water on carefully. Help Children.
Shower
Before taking a shower, make sure the water pressure and shower sump pump
breakers are on. The sump pumps breakers are located in the DC panel. The top
switch is for the guest stateroom and the bottom switch is for the master stateroom.
The middle switch is inactive. In addition, the sumps need to be turned on in the
heads. The forward head sump switch is a small button just above the sink. The
master shower switch is located under the overhang in the shower behind the
curtain. Take short “boat” showers by pausing or turning off the water between
soaping and rinsing. Please wipe down the shower stall and floor when finished to
keep shower tidy. Pick up any accumulation of hair in the drains as it clogs the

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hoses. Ensure that the faucets are tightly turned off after each shower to save
water.

14
GALLEY
Propane
The boat is equipped with a low pressure propane system for cooking. The propane
tanks are located in the stack on the upper deck. Open the tank valve. Go to the
DC panel and turn on the breaker labeled “LPG Control”.Then turn on the propane
solenoid switch in the galley. When lighting the first time, allow a few seconds for
the gas to travel from the tank to the stove. You might need to keep the stove top
or the oven in the light position for a few more seconds while the thermo-coupler
warms up. when lighting the oven open the door slightly.
To ensure safety, turn off the propane solenoid switch, the propane at the bottle,
and the DC breaker when finished.
Refrigerator/Freezer
The refrigerator and freezer are 12V DC. The switch is located in the galley to the
right near the LPG switch. When on the red light in the switch will illuminate. The
fuse is in the engine room on the port side just forward of the front of the engine. In
addition, a remote switch is in the engine room near the fuse panel. Always leave it
in the on position. Carefully monitor the use of the refrigerator when the engines
are not charging the 12-volt system as when you are at anchor. Use a cooler when
possible for all your drinks to keep the refrigerator door closed as much as possible.
Use the top lids, when possible, since cold air will escape when the side doors are
opened.
The power switch can be turned off at night to conserve energy while anchored or
moored.
Ice maker OUT OF SERVICE
The ice maker is 110V. it is turned on at AC 2 panel and a small switch at the front
lower right corner of the unit. It needs water pressure to operate properly.
Barbeque
The Barbeque and mounting bracket are stored in the lazarette. Place in mounting
bracket on the starboard side by pulling the pin, inserting the support rod and
inserting the pin. The barbeque screws on to the bracket.
Attach the propane bottle and regulator usually found in
Lazarette. Carefully light the unit. This Barbeque cooks fairly hot and fast so keep a
good eye on your food. Store the barbeque back in the lazarette when it has cooled.
Please wipe it down with a rag or paper towel before storing. Note: Propane bottles
are not stocked by SHYC so you will need to purchase a bottle if one is not found on
board during your check-out. Ensure that outboard gas or any other flammables are
not near barbeque.

15
HEAT
The Hurricane diesel hydronic heater is located in the engine room on the port side.
It provides heat by heating water which then runs to various heat exchangers. Turn
on the toggle switch in the main salon and set the thermostat at the desired
temperature. If the heater does not start or shuts off, turn the switch off, let it sit
for 10 minutes and restart. Once the heaters is running, it will take some time for
the water to heat. Once up to temperature the fans in the main salon and
staterooms will turn on and off on automatically. The potable hot water will also be
available. The potable water heated with this system can be very hot. Be cautious
when running the hot water taps or shower.
Check the exhaust port on the stern to make certain that no obstruction such as a
fender or line exists. Let the furnace run at least 15 minutes before turning it off.
Each stateroom and the main salon has a thermostat and there is a switch in the
pilot house. The power to the pilot house heat must be turned on at the DC panel
and then at the switch above your right knee as you sit at the helm.
Engine heat can be used to heat the system. A switch near the main heat control
panel turns this feature on.

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ELECTRONICS
The Furuno TZ 15 chart plotter is the main source of information. It has its own GPS
receiver and is connected to the Radio. The independent GPS and the older Radar 2
are connected. They derive their location information from the older GPS reciever.
The VHF radio has an emergency button. But it needs the location from the GPS to
transmit this information. So, you need to turn on the chart plotter and the radio.
The radio will show the position and time. The instruments switch operates the fuel
and water gauges. Be sure to cross reference the tanks valves in the engine room
and gauges. It is not automatic.
A GPS is located in the pilothouse. Turn on by pressing the power button. Turn off
by pressing and holding the power button until it goes off.
The primary radar is available on the navigation set. This is not radar 2. Click the TX
button on the lower left to start or stop the radar display. Give it a few seconds and
it will overlay the chart. To operate the secondary radar press and hold the power
button. To turn off, hold the power button for about 3 seconds. Remember you are
not allowed to travel in fog or at night.
There is a DSC enabled VHF radio located in the pilothouse. Make sure the breaker
is on at the DC Panel. Always monitor Channel 16 while underway. Also verify that it
displays the lat/long. If it does not it will not transmit your position in an
emergency. The radio transmits information to the AIS system. All commercial craft
can identify the Mary K and you can identify them by clicking their identification on
the chart plotter/
There is a depth sounder located in the pilothouse which is independent from the
chart plotter depth indication. There is a difference in the readings because the
chart plotter adjusts for the depth of the keel to the transducer difference. To
activate, ensure that the DC breaker is on. Turn on the depth sounder with the
knob.Note the sounder has an alarm for depth which can be set to several depths.
Also note it can be set for feet or fathoms. The sounder is reliable in waters less
then 200 feet and at the slower speeds of the Mary K. If your reading is blinking, it
might be a false reading due to excessive depths or strong currents! Watch your
depth carefully in cruising unknown waters that might have rocks or obstacles.
The secondary Furuno radar includes a Chart Plotter. Use the menu button to scroll
the options.
The auto pilot is powered up by the switch on the DC panel. Once powered and in
the standby mode, the dodge buttons can be used to move the rudder. You will find
this is the fastest way to move to the rudder. However, you must keep an eye on
the rudder position or you will find that you overcontrol. Once underway press the
run button to hold the present heading. This unit will not track a course nor correct
for drift.

17
DINGHY AND OUTBOARD MOTOR
Your 13 ft Boston Whaler tender is equipped with a 50 hp Honda engine burning
regular gasoline w/o oil added. It has a capacity of 900 pounds or 6 of people.
Before you begin check to see if both drain plugs are installed and tight. There are
two –one in the engine scupper and another centered under the scupper in the bilge
between the gas tanks.
To deploy the tender, use the Auto-Crane. It has a capacity of 660# at its maximum
extension. The remote control for the crane is stored in the stack on the upper deck.
The marked controls are self-explanatory. The crane runs off the house battery.
Numerous uses will drain this battery. Be aware that the hoist cable needs to be run
out first when the boom is extended. The dingy is best deployed and retrieved on
the starboard side. Extend the boom to the next to last position. Be aware of the
handrails while operating the crane. The boom can jerk and move rapidly so think
ahead.
Turn on the battery switch –aft end, starboard side. After the dinghy is in the water
and readied to go (PFDs etc), open the vent in the fuel tank and choke the engine
once while starting. Make sure outboard is in neutral. The four cycle engine does
not require oil in the gas. However, the engine oil level needs to be checked. See
the Honda manual in the file cabinet under the navigation table.
Please use extreme care in beaching your dinghy. Make sure the engine gets tilted
up a safe distance from shore so the prop does not hit the bottom or shear the pin.
Do not drag the boat on the beach. Please lift it up with your crew. Make sure it is
secured as the tide comes in fast in these here parts.
When returning to the boat, leave your shore shoes in the cockpit and slip on your
deck shoes or slippers to keep the boat neat and tidy.

18
SAFTEY
Safety should be paramount to your daily cruising. A man overboard drill (person?)
should be discussed and practiced with an unlucky PFD as the victim. (please rinse
and dry afterward before stowing). Remember that your lifejackets are stowed in
the locker on the port side of the quarter berth in the pilot house. A few should
always be readily available. Flares, conventional as well as electronic, and other
safety equipment are located in the locker under the chart drawers or in the drawers
under the settee in the pilothouse. Also consider how you would retrieve someone
from the water since there is no swim step. There is a collapsible boarding ladder in
the port side lazarette and a rope ladder in the rope locker.
Always have a sharp lookout posted for logs, deadheads, or other flotsam and
jetsam. A log hitting your prop can ruin your vacation. As you are traveling, the
debris does seem to gather along current lines. It is sometimes best to go around
these areas and miss the “mine fields”.
Mary K is equipped with two automatic bilges pumps that can be activated remotely
from the switch to the left of the helm chair. The switch should normally be left in
the “Auto” position, but can be switched for a minute or so to “manual” to pump the
bilge. If you continually hear the bilge pump running, check your bilge! You may
have a serious problem! When in the engine room make a habit of looking below the
engine at the aft pump. It is normal to have an inch or so of water. If concerned or
even curious lift the float switch and release. The pump should operate and quit
when the water level is reduced.
The aft bilge pup is located in the engine room and is the lowest of the two. The
forward pump is located under the bed in the master stateroom
An auxiliary hand-operated bilge pump is located just forward of the engine on the
port side and operated by pumping up and down with the attached handle. This is
used in an emergency situation.
The engine spares are located the engine room. They include extra oil filters,
impellers, etc. Extra oil (SAE 30 engine, SAE 15-40 Genset) and coolant is located in
the engine room.
Crabbing is fun but requires the correct license and season. Please be sure not to
crab off the stern as the crab line can easily get tangled in your prop as you swing
with wind or current. You certainly don’t want to be the person who has to dive over
and cut the line out of the propeller. It is best to use the dinghy to set your crab
pot/ring away from the boat. A partially open can of seafood cat food works as well
as any other bait and is less messy. Please clean up any seaweed or crab shells
afterwards to keep the boat neat and tidy.