Stevens Aero Model CAP23240e User manual

CAP232 40e
RELEASE 1.06
Span 55” / Length 50” / Area 550 Sq.” / Weight 45-55oz
© 2004 Stevens AeroModel. 1

***Cautions***
Overpowering this model with a heavier / more powerful system is not recommended.
Stevens AeroModel does not recommend using power systems greater then 400W we
suggest a maximum pitch speed of 50 mph and DO NOT recommend exceeding 60oz.
AUW.
Similar to full-scale and giant scale models this high performance model requires careful
throttle management. When tracking through a down-line it is mandatory to govern the
use of throttle, slowing the models descent, to avoid over stressing the airframe.
Outrunner motors like the AXI or Orbit Brushless generate a great deal of stress for the
airframe. DO NOT run your motor up until you have verified that your blade is accurately
balanced and in perfect track. Disable your ESC’s prop braking function.
The model has been designed to fly from a smooth dirt or paved surface. Wheel pants
grab in long turf – remove the wheel pants and run a large diameter wheel if you must fly
from a turf field.
WARRANTY
Stevens AeroModel guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship
at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or
modification. In no case shall Stevens AeroModel’s liability exceed the original cost of the
purchased kit. Further, Stevens AeroModel reserves the right to change or modify this warranty
without notice.
In that Stevens AeroModel has no control over the final assembly or material used for final
assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by
the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user–assembled product,
the user accepts all resulting liability.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer
is advised to return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.
© 2004 Stevens AeroModel. 2

REQUIRED TO COMPLETE KIT:
Kit Contents:
Rolled Computer Drawn Plan Sheets
Illustrated Instruction Manual
Laser Cut Balsa and Hardwood Parts Sheets (See Parts Inventory Sheet)
1 - Clear Canopy
1 - Cowl Assembly
4 - 1/8” x1/4” x 26” Balsa Stick (Turbulator Stock)
Large Materials Bag
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
2 - 3/16” x 2” hardwood dowel.
1 - 3/16” x 3” hardwood dowel.
1 - .045” x 11.5” Music Wire.
2 - .062” x 11.5” Music Wire.
2 - Pre-Bent landing gear struts.
1 - 3/16” x 6” aluminum tube.
1 - 3/32” x 6” aluminum tube.
Small Materials Bag
12 - #2x1/4” Screws (Wheel Pant Hardware).
2 - 1/8” Star Washers (retains wheels when not using pants)
2 - 8-32 Blind Nut
2 - 8-32 x 1” Nylon Wing Bolt
2 - #8 Nylon Washer
1 - 12” Length of Kevlar Thread.
10 - CA Hinge Material.
Recommended Finishing Items (Available from your Local Hobby Shop or StevensAero.Com:
1 - Pair 2-7/8” LYT Wheels.
1 - ½” Tail Wheel Sullivan.
2 - Pair Dubro EZ Connectors #121
1 - 2” Dubro Spinner (White) #272
2-3 Roll(s) of AeroLITE (Solite) or AeroFILM (Solarfilm) – Iron on Film Covering. ULTRACOTE or similar heavy
gauge coverings are NOT recommended.
1/8” Canopy Trim Tape.
Basic modeling tools and glue – a palm sander will come in handy as well as a small vise.
Suggested Radio Gear:
4-6 Channel Transmitter (4 Ch. using “Y” harness for ailerons)
4 - Micro Servos (Hitec HS-81)
1 - 12” Y-Servo Extension (Req. for 4 Ch. Radio.)
4 - 12” Servo Extension
1 –Micro Receiver
1 - 40A ESC
Supported Power Systems:
Lets not confuse the issue here – if you are new to e-flight and fresh from the world of glow models the recommended
Hacker/LiPoly combo WILL exceed your expectations of flight performance – don’t deviate from this simple successful
formula; go fly and enjoy your e-flight experience.
Hacker A30-10XL / Phoenix 45 ESC / 12x6 APC Thin Electric / 9-10 Cell Nicad/Nimh or 11.1v LiPoly capable of
40A Continuous 45A burst. Thunderpower 2100 3S2P 11.1v / (4200mAh).
Our test model came out @52oz using the Hacker A30-10XL / and 10 RC2400 NICAD cells and had just over 1:1
thrust to weight. Using LiPoly our test model came out at 43-45oz and had a thrust to weight ratio of 1.3:1
If you are an e-flight propeller head and you just can’t help yourself but to mix and match ratios / motors / props you’ll find
the stock motor mount supports a variety of motor/gearbox combos from mainstream manufactures like Aveox / HiMax /
Hacker / and Mega Motors… probably not enough to completely satisfy your craving to tinker but enough to get you going.
The Hacker A30-10XL is our choice motor - visit www.stevensaero.com for information regarding alternate supported
motors.
© 2004 Stevens AeroModel. 3

GENERAL ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS:
Thank you, for purchasing this Stevens Aeromodel Cap 232 – 40e. This kit provides the builder and pilot a refreshing
change of pace from heavy “ARF” style plywood box airframe construction and blends stick and tissue design methods of
the past with state of the art CAD technology and precision interlocking laser cut parts; the result is something you will find
truly exceptional to build and fly. Please keep in mind that this kit is intended for a novice-intermediate builder and
intermediate-advanced pilot. If you do not meet these criteria it is recommended to seek help from a more experienced
builder / pilot.
Bill Stevens
[email protected]
Stevens AeroModel “Built to Fly”
4550 Beaumont Rd.
Colorado Springs, CO 80916
Assembly Tips
READ THE INSTRUCTIONS and review the plan sheet prior to starting any work!
Tape plans to work table. Cover with clear painters drop cloth, wax paper, or plastic wrap.
Join all parts with Thin CA unless otherwise specified.
DO NOT REMOVE THE PARTS FROM THE BALSA SHEETS UNTIL REQUIRED! In-fact while the balsa
parts are still retained in the sheets now is a good time to run a few good swipes with a sanding block over both
sides of the sheet to remove any resin/residue from the laser cutting process.
DO NOT FORCE THE FIT – when in doubt double check your parts – Many of the joints will be exceptionally
snug it is recommended that each part be worked into position slowly by rocking the part back and forth. I like
to use a rat-tail file to knock the edge off of the interlocking components to ease assembly. If you feel that you
have a poor connection check first to see that the part is not upside down. Reference each piece against the
plan sheet or photo.
Making solid glue joints: Hold parts together on top of plan sheet using moderate pressure to fit parts - wick thin
CA into joint. Hint- wrap your fingers in masking tape to avoid gluing yourself to the part! (There is no need to
pin parts to work table as all pieces interlock and self - jig.)
© 2004 Stevens AeroModel. 10

Tail Feathers
1. Build the Rudder, Vertical Stabilizer, Elevator, and Horizontal Stabilizer. Parts are grouped according to tail
section component on the 3/16” balsa sheets. Work with each component separately. Assemble over plan
sheet, removing only those parts necessary to complete each individual component. Start each assembly by
building up the outside edges (just like a puzzle) – finish by inserting center truss parts. Though the parts fall
together and self jig, pay particular attention to part orientation and making solid glue joints.
D
BB
EE EE
Horizontal
Stab.
Vertical
Stab.
B
B
E
E
D
D
A
AC
C
Rudder
AA
DD
CC
FF
BB
CC
FF
6"x316" Alum. Tube
Elevator
D
2. Elevator Joining Tube. Verify that the provided 3/16” aluminum tube is of the appropriate length and rough the
surface with fine grit sand paper to remove dirt, oil, and debris from the tube. Wipe tube with rubbing alcohol,
then, Using thin CA, tack the joining tube to each elevator half and allow to dry. Once dry use a small amount
of 5-minute epoxy to create a fillet between the wood and the aluminum tube.
3. Sand all surfaces with fine grit sand paper, rounding leading edge pieces while leaving trailing edge parts
square, in preparation for your preferred hinging method (Centered CA Hinging is Recommended).
Fuselage
Fuselage components are exceptionally brittle until the entire assembly is complete – this is especially true aft of the wing
saddle. Handle parts accordingly and do not force the fit! Do not glue a part until instructed to do so – failure to
follow this simple instruction may result in a break down of the space time continuum or may result in a fuselage
that is not square and true. To date no one has failed to follow this instruction so the consequences outlined above are
but pure speculation.
1. Let’s assemble the major fuselage sub assemblies. Assemble Fuselage sides and formers F9, F10, F11, FB1,
FT1, FB2, and H1. Align parts with rolled plan sheet and wick CA into joints.
F10
F10
F10
F10
F10
F11
F10
F11
F11
F11
F11
F10
F11
F11
F12
F12
F12
F12
F12
F12
FT1
H1
FB2a
FB2d
FB2c
FB2b
FB1
F9
F9a
F9b
SR2
SR2
AA
B
B
© 2004 Stevens AeroModel. 11

2. If you didn’t complete this step in the sub assembly section, now is a good time to install the servo mounting
block parts SR2a / SR2b and SR2c ply doublers. Install to one of the fuselage sides wicking thin CA into joints.
Be careful not to interfere with the notching for F12.
3. Lay fuselage side on a flat surface and gently work former F2 and SR1 servo tray into position. Repeat for the
opposite side. Tack glue F2 into position by wicking a small drop of CA onto a tab joint on each side. Only
apply enough glue to tack the assembly together, we still want the parts to have the ability to shift. DO NOT
apply glue to SR1 joints.
4. Key former FT1 to fuselage sides and F2. Invert on flat work surface and tack glue FT1 along tab and notch
joints at fuselage sides.
© 2004 Stevens AeroModel. 12

5. Invert fuselage and install FB1 spanning fuselage sides and F2. Tack glue at tab notch joints.
6. Dry fit parts F8A and F8B together as indicated below. Install between fuselage sides and tack glue into
position (see illustrations).
7. Install FB2 to fuselage sides spanning F8. Work fuselage side tabs into notches in FB2 tack glue sides into
position.
© 2004 Stevens AeroModel. 13

8. Tail post installation: With the fuselage up-right, place a weight over the front of the fuselage then move to the
tail and dry fit former F13 to aft end of fuselage. F13 Spans the fuselage sides locking into FB2 (the tab in F13
should not extend below FB2). Square the tail post to the work surface. Once square, wick thin CA into joints
between F13, the fuselage sides, and FB2.
9. Starting with F10 slip formers F10, F11, and F12 in-between fuselage sides. F10-12 interlock with fuselage
sides and tab into slots in FB2. Check to ensure that the fuselage is again square at the tail post and tack glue
F10-12 into position.
10. Key the 1/16” Balsa former FT2 into position spanning the fuselage sides and F12. Tack into position with thin
CA.
© 2004 Stevens AeroModel. 14

11. Stack FT3, then FT4, and finally FT5 atop FT2. Align fit with FT2 and wick thin ca in-between stacked formers.
12. Stack FT6 atop FT5 – FT6 will key into F12. Dry fit assembly then partially insert horizontal stab (to assure
proper spacing) in gap created by FT5 and FT6. Once satisfied with fit tack FT6 to F12, remove the stab, then
finish by wicking thin CA between FT5 and FT6.
13. Install F16 Spanning F10, F11, F12, and FT6.
© 2004 Stevens AeroModel. 15

14. Stack Tail Section shape blocks atop F6 aligning on either side of F16. Do not block 3/16” slot in FT6. Plane,
and rough sand shape blocks round. Just rough it in for now and take care of the rest after the turtle deck has
been sheeted.
15. Assembly of motor mount. Locate the 1/8” Lite Ply Cut parts. The motor mount is composed of parts M1-M7
(1/8” lite ply) and M8 (1/16” ply) (M3 is the 3/16” dowel DO NOT GLUE THIS PART IN PLACE). From these
parts assemble the motor mount and key to the F1 fuselage firewall as indicated below. Begin by placing F1
on your building board with the etching “FRONT” facing you. Next select the appropriate motor mount parts for
your power system. We recommend using the AXI/Himax motor mount assembly. Note that M4, M5, and M8
are matched sets and provide support for multiple motors:
M5/M8 Face Plates
AXI 2820-10 / Hacker / Aveox
AXI 2820-10 / Himax
GD600 / MEC Gearboxes and 540 Can Motors.
Match the above plates to the appropriate M4 Motor Saddle
Hacker / Himax / Aveox
GD600 3.8:1
MEC Gearbox 4.0:1
Dry assemble the motor mount by matching the Right and Left sides to the etched Alpha-Characters on each
mount plate. Dry assemble mount to F1 verify that you have a mount with Right not Left thrust.
Finalize your mount with glue. You may wish to use a slow setting epoxy for the motor mount parts, if using thin
CA make sure to go over each joint at least twice allowing ample dry time in-between applications. Non-rotating
can motors such as the Himax or 540 motor attached to GD600 gearbox are retained using the supplied 3/16” x
2” hardwood dowel (M3). Do not glue the dowel into position – friction alone is enough to retain the dowel. This
dowel must be used as it reduces stresses on both the gearbox and the mounting plate and will extend your
gear longevity.
DO NOT FORGET TO INSTALL PART M8 1/16” PLY DOUBLER – LAMINATE TO THE COMPLETED
ASSEMBLY ATOP M5.
© 2004 Stevens AeroModel. 16

16. Key completed F1 and motor mount to fuselage sides spanning FT1 and FB1. The fit here is very snug. Work
the parts into position slowly and sand / file as required to achieve a positive fit.
17. Key F3 to FT1. Next, span F3 and F1 with F14. Square parts to FT1 and glue.
18. Key F4 and F5 to FT1. Next, span F4 and F5 with F15. Square parts to FT1 and glue.
© 2004 Stevens AeroModel. 17

19. Key F9 to FT1 and lean against F10. The inside edge of F9 should meet the top aft edge of FT1. Check to
ensure that F9 is installed evenly – do this by sighting along the formers from the aft end of the fuselage. Finish
by tacking F9 into position.
20. Lets close out this portion of the fuselage build by wicking thin CA glue along all surface to surface joints
doubling your glue joints at F1 and F2.
21. Build the Hatch. Assemble parts H1, H2, H3, H4, H5, and Center Spine. PLEASE NOTE the center spine has
been etched with an arrow that should face forward to part H2. Complete assembly should appear as illustrated
below. Square to work surface and glue.
22. Apply 1/16” fuselage sheeting as illustrated below. Begin each sheeted component by standing the sheeting up
90 degrees to the fuselage and against the formers (arrows etched on sheeting should be at top/center facing
forward), tack gluing into position, whetting with spray glass cleaner, then wrapping to the center. Check fit,
adjust as required, then wick thin CA between sheet and formers. Sheet the sections between F1/F2, F4/F5,
and the battery access hatch. Take your time and study the illustrations below prior to committing any part with
glue. Once complete sand the structure lightly to blend the hatch/sheet and fuselage/sheet surfaces together.
© 2004 Stevens AeroModel. 18

23. The 1/16” sheeting was your primer for the next step. This step takes some time…note the 1 page
dissertation…. Is it late? Go to bed and start fresh on this tomorrow.
Back again? Ok lets begin. Test fit the parts to get a feel for how they “wrap” across the fuselage… be gentle
with the formers as the entire structure is pretty weak until sheeted.
In the same fashion that you sheeted the forward section of the fuselage you will want to stand up the 1/32”
balsa sheeting along the upper fuselage longeron. Lets try to sheet this section dry (to prevent shrinking) if
absolutely necessary moisten with glass cleaner to assist in forming the balsa to the formers F10-12. Begin to
wrap the parts and align along the top of former F12. The sheeting should fit flush along F12 and flush along
the upper longeron. You will note that it takes some shifting of the part to achieve the fit. You will also observe
that the sheeting has been left long past F10. Tape up those fingers with masking tape to avoid getting stuck to
the parts! I like to use masking tape to hold the sheeting flush and fast to the upper longeron, work in the aft
section of the sheet then tack glue along the joint between the upper longeron and sheet. Slowly begin to work
sheet over the formers (not too hard now) to the center turtle deck spine F16. Tack to F16 and begin working
the opposite side around. The two sheets should meet in the middle or slightly overlap. Take care of the
overlap by sanding it out or shaving it off with a fresh razor.
Run CA along the joints between F12, F11, and finally F10. Allow time to dry.
Moisten the section of the turtle deck sheeting forward of F10. Cup your hands around the sheeting and hold in
position flush with F9. Run thin CA along joint between F9 repeat for the opposite side.
Using a sharp razor slice away the excess sheet forward of F9 leaving some excess to then be sanded flush
with F9 using a sanding block.
Fill any gaps with balsa filler and sand.
24. Install the battery tray. Dry fit 3/16” Balsa formers F6 and F7 along with 1/16” ply battery tray BT1 to fuselage.
Formers F6/7 span the fuselage sides while the BT1 battery tray spans F6/F7/F2/and Keys into slot provided in
F1. Run liberal amounts of thin CA along joints especially ply to balsa joints. I like to double the ply to balsa
joints with a thin fillet of Thick CA or 5 minute epoxy (preferred).
© 2004 Stevens AeroModel. 19

25. Next install the wheel bracket / block. The 1/16” ply bracket is laminated with thin CA to the outside of the
fuselage as illustrated below. Just opposite the ply bracket (inside the fuselage) laminate the 3/16” balsa part
TW1 into position atop FB2 in-between the fuselage sides (not illustrated).
26. Final Sand the fuselage assembly in preparation for covering.
27. See the full-size plan sheet for tail wheel bracket instructions. Assemble the tail gear as illustrated on the plan.
28. This step completes the fuselage assembly and is likely the most important step. Prior to covering the tail
feathers you will want to check the fit of the horizontal stab., vertical stab., and elevator to the fuselage. These
parts should slide through the slot in the aft end of the fuselage with little effort. Often the 3/16” balsa is ever-
so-slightly oversized and the tail feathers will need some attention with a medium grit sand paper to deck them
to fit (remember you will be adding width from the covering). Slide in the tail feathers by rocking them back and
forth in the slot. If a significant amount of resistance is felt: remove and slightly sand. Repeat this process until
the tail feathers fit. Some friction / resistance is desirable – as long as it is slight and you are not stressing the
fuselage trying to force the fit.
© 2004 Stevens AeroModel. 20

Wing
Basic assembly methodology. When assembled on a flat work surface, this wing will jig together and self align to create
one of the straightest wings you have ever built. Each part relies on the successive component to achieve this; we
suggest that you rely on friction and the interlocking construction to hold the wing together throughout the building
process, hold off on the CA glue until you are directed to use it– this allows the individual components to shift and align as
each part is added – once all the pieces are in-place the assembly will be pulled together straight and true.
1. Begin wing construction by locating and joining together the following sub-assemblies with thin CA:
S1 Main Spar (1) From S1A, S1B, S1C (1/16” Balsa)
S2 Spar Cap Upper (1) From S2A, S2B, S2C (3/32” Balsa)
S3 Spar Cap Lower (1) From S3A, S3B, S3C (3/32” Balsa)
L1 Leading Edge Jig (2) From L1A, L1B (1/16” Balsa)
L2 Leading Edge Cap (2) From L2A, L2B (1/8” Balsa)
T1 Trailing Edge Jig (2) From T1A, T1B (1/16” Balsa)
T2 Cap Strip (4) From T2A, T2B (1/16” Balsa)
L2A
L1A
L2B
L1B
S2A S2B S2C
S3A
S1A
S3B
S1B
S1C
S3C
L2B
L1B
L2A
L1A
T1A
T2A
T2A T2A
T2A
T1AT1B
T2B
T2B T2B
T2B
T1A
2. Locate ribs R1 (1/8”) and R2 (3/32”) and CA the cross bracing in place in the notches provided just aft of the
ribs mid section. The cross braces are located within the respective rib lightening hole on the cut wood sheets.
3. At this point it is a very good idea to lightly sand both sides of the wing ribs and spar. It is also a good time to
consider lightly sanding the burn marks from the edges of the ribs – be very gentle as the assembly is quite
delicate at this point.
© 2004 Stevens AeroModel. 21

4. Next dry assemble ribs R1-R6 into main spar relying upon friction to hold the parts through the assembly
process and do not glue until instructed. Go easy and do not force the fit – the fit should be snug but due to
wood variances it may be too tight – if this is the case carefully remove the rib and lightly sand the intersecting
surfaces – avoid forcing the fit as it tends to distort the shape of the wing.
5. Dry assemble a right and left servo tray from the following parts: W3 (1/8” Balsa), W4 (1/8” Balsa), W5 (1/16”
Ply). Carefully observe keying if something doesn’t seem to fit properly check your assembly. Dry assemble
the left and right servo pockets to the main spar S1 and rib R3. The entire assembly is fairly flexible and fragile
so gently work the parts into position.
6. Dry assemble sub-ribs R1a-R5a.
© 2004 Stevens AeroModel. 22

7. Gently work leading edge jig L1 into position between ribs R1 and R6. Make certain that the ends of L1 are
properly seated into ribs R1 and R6. Place a small drop of thin ca on the tab/notch points at L1 and ribs R1 and
R6 only. Do not glue intermediate ribs.
8. Dry assemble Center brace W1 into position atop ribs R1.
9. Dry assemble the upper spar cap S2 and lower spar cap S3 to the main spar S1. Tip! Prior to fitting of spar
caps sand a bit of a chamfer along the spar tabs – this eliminates the harsh edge and aids in fitting. Slowly
work parts into position – forcing the fit will only crush the tabs.
© 2004 Stevens AeroModel. 23

10. Dry assemble T1 trailing edge jig to wing assembly. Invert wing on flat surface and tack glue each tab/notch
joint between T1 and the wing assembly. Do not soak with CA glue – rather just wick enough in to hold things
in-place through the remainder of the assembly.
11. Use a 3/16” drill bit to key/align parts T3A (1/8” Balsa) and T3B (1/32” Ply) – Tack into position, remove the drill
bit guide, then proceed to laminate parts together by wicking thin CA glue between surfaces. With the wing
right-side-up (jig risers up) dry assemble the completed wing trailing edge T3 to the center section ribs R1 and
R2. Tack glue the center trailing edge component to R1 and R2 where these parts intersect.
12. Dry assemble L2 leading edge cap strip. Tip! prior to fitting of spar caps sand a bit of a chamfer along the spar
tabs – this eliminates the harsh edge and aids in fitting. Slowly work parts into position – forcing the fit will only
crush the tabs.
© 2004 Stevens AeroModel. 24

13. Dry assemble T2, trailing edge spar caps, spanning R1-R6 and the trailing edge jig T1. Tack glue into position
only tab and notch joints.
14. Dry assemble the landing gear block from parts LG1 – LG6 and friction fit together as indicated in the photo
below. Key the center landing gear block to the wing between ribs R1 and the main spar. Align flush with R1
and the main spar. Tack glue into position.
15. Key part L3 to the wing center section and tack glue into position. Next glue/laminate part L4 over L3.
© 2004 Stevens AeroModel. 25

16. Dry assemble 1/8” x 1/4” turbulator stock to top and bottom of wing assembly. It is very helpful to do both sides
at once, as you are able to apply more even pressure to the top and bottom of the wing rib. Do not force the fit.
17. Now is the time to finalize the wing. Invert the wing assembly on your flat surface allowing it to rest on the
center spar and the riser jigs. Carefully place sand bags over wing to hold it flat to the work surface. Inspect
the wing to make certain that each joint is properly seated.
Starting with the main spar wick thin CA glue along the entire length of the spar cap – spar structure.
Next wick Thin CA into the turbulator – rib joints.
Now move on to the leading edge and wick thin CA along each surface joint.
Glue the trailing edge surfaces as above.
Next wick thin CA along all of the interface points between the spar and the ribs.
Wick thin CA into the servo pocket – rib joints.
And finally wick CA glue into all joints in the center section paying particular attention to the landing
gear block..
Inspect your work to ensure that all surface to surface joints are properly bonded and that no joint has
been left out.
Remove the sand bags and continue on with assembly.
© 2004 Stevens AeroModel. 26