Stevens Aero Model Waterboard mini pondflyer Manual

A PondFlyer™ For Smaller Watering Holes
Length: 14 inches | Beam: 5.5 square inches | Weight: 6-8 ounces
R1.16 (revised 11.06.2014)
Build Instructions
© 2013 Stevens AeroModel all rights reserved. Page 1 of 25
mini
pondyer
TM
stevensaero.com

Product Support
WARRANTY
Stevens AeroModel guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the
date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification.
In no case shall Stevens AeroModel’s liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further,
Stevens AeroModel reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.
LIABILITY RELEASE
In that Stevens AeroModel has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly,
no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from use by the user. By the act of
using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is
advised to return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.
THIS PRODUCT IS NOT INTENDED FOR CHILDREN 12 YEARS OF AGE OR YOUNGER.
WARNING: This product may contain chemicals known to the state of California to cause cancer
and/or birth defects or other reproductive harm.
PRODUCT SUPPORT
This product has been engineered to function properly and perform as advertised, with the suggested
power system and supporting electronics as outlined within this product manual. Product support
cannot be provided, nor can Stevens AeroModel assist in determining the suitability or use of
electronics, hardware, or power systems not explicitly recommended by Stevens AeroModel.
For product assembly support, replacement parts, hardware, and electronics to complete this model,
please contact Stevens AeroModel at www.stevensaero.com.
Stevens AeroModel
26405 Judge Orr Rd., Colorado Springs, CO 80808 USA
719-387-4187 www.stevensaero.com
Build Instructions
© 2013 Stevens AeroModel all rights reserved. Page 2 of 25

Kit Inventory
☐Laser Cut Wood (9 Sheets - See “Sheet Wood Inventory” on following pages)
☐Illustrated Instruction Manual (No plan set is required nor included for completion of this model)
☐Large Hardware Bag
1 - Nylon Radio Hatch Twist Latch (Laser Cut)
1 - “F12” 3/16 in. basswood nose stock (Laser Cut)
1 - Radio Hatch Foam Rubber Gasket (Laser Cut)
1 - Pylon Access Foam Rubber Gasket (Laser Cut)
1 - 1/32 in. dia. x 6 in. length music wire
☐Small Hardware Bag
1 - 1/8 in. dia. x 1 in. length aluminum tube [*]
1 - 3/32 in. dia. x 2-3/4 in. length music wire [*]
1 - 2 in. length of 1/16 in. dia. Heat Shrink Tubing [*]
1 - 4-40 x 3/8 in. Machine Screw [3007]
1 - 4-40 Hex Nut [3005]
1 - Nylon 4-40 x 3/8 in. Machine Screw [3020]
1 - Nylon Water Rudder
1 - 1 in. length of silicone fuel tubing [4005]
2 - Rubber rudder retaining bushings [4015]
3 - Mini Rubber Band [4007]
3 - #4 Steel Washers [3006]
3 - #4 Nylon Washers [3018]
3 - #2 x 7/16 in. Flanged, Socket Head Sheet Metal Screws [3015]
4 - #2 x 1/4 in. Sheet Metal Screw [3011]
7 - #2 x 1/2 in. Socket Head Sheet Metal Screws [3014]
Water Rudder
As of our R1.16 kit update the Water rudder option is now included standard with this kit.
Replacemnt water rudder option parts given below are available for purchase separately through
StevensAero.com. When purchased as replacement parts, water rudder kit includes 1/32 in. ply air
rudder parts V1, V2, V3, C1, and C2 as described later in this manual.
☐Laser Cut Parts V1, V2, V3, C1, and C2 as described in this manual.
☐Water Rudder [SAP-WBMINI/WRUD]
1 - Nylon 4-40 x 3/8 in. Machine Screw [3020]
1 - Nylon Water Rudder
1 - 1 in. length of silicone fuel tubing [4005]
3 - Mini Rubber Band [4007]
Nylon Hatch Lock
As of our R1.16 kit update the Nylon Hatch Lock option is now included standard with this kit.
This new hatch lock replaces the wooden hatch lock provided in previous releases of this kit and does not
require sealing to allow this component to stand up to the elements.
☐Nylon Hatch Lock [SAP-WBMINI/HLK-N]
1 - Nylon Radio Hatch Twist Latch (Laser Cut)
Build Instructions
© 2013 Stevens AeroModel all rights reserved. Page 3 of 25

Suggested Items To Complete This Model
Many of the following items will be available at your local hobby shop. For your convenience Stevens
AeroModel stocks all of the power system components and most of the required and optional building
supplies. If you have difficulties sourcing any of the requisite items locally, please visit our web site to
purchase those items necessary to complete your model.
Required Electronics (Available at StevensAero.com)
☐Aircraft Style 3 Channel radio and receiver. We suggest the Spektrum DX5e and AR400 receiver.
☐Hitec HS-35HD or HS-55 servo.
☐SA Sport BL250 2200KV (A2212-6) Brushless Outrunner Motor [SUPA1510-15]*
☐10A brushless ESC (Waterproofed)
☐GWS 4.5x3 or 5x3-3 blade propeller [GW/EP-5030*3]
☐2mm Propeller Adapter (set screw type) [EFLM1927]
☐7.4V 550mAh LiPo capable of 10A continuous discharge [HP-LG325-550-2S]
*Not intended for 11.1V battery packs.
Wood Sealant Suggestions
It is suggested to sand and seal this model using DEFT fast drying lacquer based finish. This products
dries exceptionally fast producing times of 5-15 minuets between applications and 30 minute handling.
☐At least one 12.25 oz. DEFT brand clear lacquer spray wood finish (satin or semi-gloss)*
☐One quart or less of DEFT brand clear brushing lacquer wood finish (to use as a sanding sealer)
☐Talc or baby powder to mix with DEFT to create a sanding sealer.
☐Compatible lacquer based color spray we recommend Design Master Color Tool
Build Instructions
© 2013 Stevens AeroModel all rights reserved. Page 4 of 25
Required Building Supplies and Tools
☐1/2 oz. Medium CA Glue [PAAPT04]
☐1 oz. Thick CA Glue [PAAPT20]
☐CA glue accelerator [PAAPT15]
☐Balsa filler [HCAR3401]
☐30 min epoxy [PAAPT39]
☐Adhesive backed hook and loop tape for
battery mounting [DUB348]
☐Hobby Knife with ample supply of #11 blades
☐Sanding block with 120/240 grit [SB120240]
☐400-600 Grit Sand Paper
☐Heat Gun
☐Masking Tape (Low tack blue painters tape)
☐5/64 Hex Wrench
☐#0 Phillips Head Screw Driver
☐Small Needle Nose Pliers
☐3/4 in. x 12 in. length sticky back velcro
☐Small 6-12 in. Ruler and Straight Edge.
Optional Building Supplies and Tools
☐1/2 oz. Thin CA Glue [PAAPT09]
☐CA glue de-bonder [PAAPT16]
☐CA glue tips (fine) [PAAPT21]
☐5 min epoxy and/or Polyurethane Glue
☐2 hour epoxy finish resin (instead of 30 min)
☐Epoxy mixing cups, sticks, and brush
☐Thread locking compound
☐Long sanding bar
☐Rubbing alcohol and paper towels for epoxy
cleanup.
☐3/32 in. dia. shrink tubing [DUB436]

Sheet Wood Inventory (1 of 1)
Build Instructions
© 2013 Stevens AeroModel all rights reserved. Page 5 of 25

Builders Notes
Build Instructions
© 2013 Stevens AeroModel all rights reserved. Page 6 of 25

General Assembly Instructions
Thank you, for purchasing this Stevens AeroModel WaterBoard Mini™. A design that is certain to
entertain both airplane and boat building enthusiasts alike. This PondFlyer™ has been developed and
manufactured using state of the art CAD/CAM systems and features a unique interlocking construction
process that, when compared to traditional methods found in other boat kits, save countless hours of
measuring, cutting, sanding, and fitting. We are certain that you’ll find our kit to offer a truly exceptional
build experience. As this kit is recommended for the novice boat builder and “pilot” We invite absolute
beginners to correspond with us, or to seek the help of another seasoned builder. At any time should one
run across a term or technique thats foreign please don’t hesitate to contact our staff with your questions.
Please read and re-read these instructions along with any other included documentation prior to starting
your build and or contacting our staff for support.
Pre-sanding
Do not skip this step. Prior to removing any parts from the laser cut sheet wood use a sanding block
loaded with 120-240 grit paper and lightly sand the back side of each sheet of wood. This step removes
any residue produced as a result of the laser cutting process and, as we have found that most stock wood
sizes run several thousandths of an inch over sized, slightly reduces the thickness of each sheet.
Leave your pre-sanded parts in the sheet until required in the assembly process.
Protecting your worktable
Use the poly tube that this kit was shipped in as a non-stick barrier between your worktable and the
product assembly. Promptly clean up any epoxy spills with rubbing alcohol and a disposable towel.
Bonding the assembly
As this product tabs, notches, and otherwise interlocks like a 3D puzzle we suggest that when fitting parts
you dry fit (use no glue) the parts together first. It’s advised to work 1-2 steps ahead in the instructions
using this dry-fit technique which allows ample opportunity to inspect the fit and location of assembled
components and realizes a benefit as each successive part contributes to pulling the entire assembly
square. Once you arrive at the end of a major assembly step(s) square your work on top of a flat building
table and revisit the dry fit joints with glue. Using the dry-fit process you’ll be able to recover from a minor
build mistake and will ultimately end up with a more square and true assembly.
Unless otherwise noted in the instructions, always use medium CA glue for bonding parts.
Never force the fit!
Remember this is a precision cut kit our machines cut to within 1 thousandth of an inch in accuracy. Yet
the wood stock supplied by the mill may vary in thickness by up to 20 thousandths. This variance in the
wood stock can cause some tabs/notches to fit very tight. Remember, as dad say’s “it is easier to take
away material than add it back”. With this in mind, should you find a joint or two to fit rather snug
consider lightly sanding a tight fitting tab rather than crushing and forcing your parts together. You’ll break
fewer parts in assembly and will end up with a more square and true assembly.
Build Instructions
© 2013 Stevens AeroModel all rights reserved. Page 7 of 25

Begin Hull Construction
☐Assemble R1 from parts R1a/b. Now,
Starting at the bow of the boat key balsa
formers F1, F2, F3, F4, F5, F6, with ply
former F7 at the stern to, balsa ribs R1.
☐Install the sub rib R2a and sub former R2b
just forward of F1 as illustrated below.
☐Key formers F8 to the right and left of the hull
assembly by aligning each notch in F8 to the
top outside notch of formers F1-F7 as
illustrated below.
☐Assemble ribs R3 from sub assembly parts
R3a, R3b, and R3c. Bond sub assembly
parts with thin or medium CA glue.
☐Key ribs R3 to the right and left of hull
assembly aligning part with the outside edge
of F8 and each notch within R3 to the outside
tabs of formers F1-F7. Square assembly on a
flat surface and bond parts F8 to formers and
outer rib assembly with medium CA glue.
☐Now bring the forward portion of ribs R3 in to
align against the outside edge of F8 and R2b.
Bond R3 to retain shape in this manner.
Build Instructions
© 2013 Stevens AeroModel all rights reserved. Page 8 of 25
F1
F2
F3
F4
F5
F6
F7
R1
R1
F1
R2a
R2b
R3c
R3b
R3a
Create “R3”
F1
F2
F3
F4
F5
F6
F7
F8
F8
R3
F8
F8
R3
right
left
F1
F2
F3
F4
F5F6
F7
right
left
R2b

Hull Construction Continued
☐Fit and bond the 1/16” plywood battery tray
BT1 spanning formers F3, F4, and F5. First,
key BT1 to notch in F5 then bow F3 forward
as you work BT1 into position.
☐Now key F9 sub decking to the hull assembly
spanning formers F3, F4, F5, and F6 and on
top of ribs R1. Note: F9 MUST fit FLUSH
with the top surface of hull formers and ribs.
Bond F9 to retain.
☐Now key F10, to right and left side rails F8,
and on top of F7 spanning ribs R1 and R3.
Bond F10 to retain.
☐Invert assembly and install F11 to fit along the
bottom of F7, inside and outside ribs R1, and
R3. Bond F11 to retain part within assembly.
☐Install 3/16” square length of basswood nose
stock, F12 spanning ribs R1, R2a, and R3 as
illustrated below. Bond to retain part within
assembly.
☐WITH THE HULL ASSEMBLY INVERTED
mask rib and formers, as illustrated in
preparation for sealing the radio box.
Build Instructions
© 2013 Stevens AeroModel all rights reserved. Page 9 of 25
BT1
F3
F4
F5
F9
F3
F4 F5
F6
F7
F8
F8
F10
R1
R1
F7 R3
R3
R1
R1
F11
R1
R1
R3
R3
R2a
F12
F3
F4
F5
F6
R1
R1
Bottom View
Bottom View

Hull Construction Continued
☐Seal area illustrated below with a minimum of
3 coats of lacquer spray. Remove mask.
☐With the hull assembly inverted, register the
1/32 in. plywood bottom F13 with the F7
transom and R3 sides. Work from transom to
bow retaining ply bottom with masking tape
as illustrated. Note: F13 should be placed
flush at transom and should overlap
basswood leading edge by at least 1/16 in.
☐Support hull assembly against a flat work
surface rocking up onto the bow to flatten F13
ply bottom against the F16 basswood nose
stock then bond with CA glue.
☐Support bow of boat against your flat work
surface and, working one “bay” at time, bond
all intersections of ribs, formers, and ply
bottom forward of F2 as illustrated.
Build Instructions
© 2013 Stevens AeroModel all rights reserved. Page 10 of 25
F3
F4
F5
F6
R1
R1
F7
F13
R3
R3
F13
F3
F4
F5
F6
R1
R1
F2
Bottom View
Bottom View
Bottom View
Bottom View
Transom
Bow
Bow

Hull Construction Continued
☐Working back from the bow of the boat bond
all intersections of formers, ribs, and hull
bottom aft of former F2.
☐Cut the provided 1” length of aluminum tubing
to 15/16” and install at the transom within the
circular cutouts of F10 and F11 as illustrated
below. Note that tube will protrude ~ 1/16 in.
above the plywood F10 former. Bond with
medium CA to retain part within assembly.
☐Join parts D1a and D1b along the dove-tail
joints to create the “D1” upper decking. Bond
with thin or medium CA glue along the seam.
☐Test fit the D1, upper decking assembly, to
the hull with the dashed etch lines down.
Make any adjustments to the tabs and
notches to ensure you can quickly drop this
part into position atop the hull assembly.
☐Remove the D1 decking and lay on your
worktable etch side up.
You’ll need to work quickly on this step. Thick
CA glue or 5 min. epoxy will ensure proper
working time. Apply glue along the perimeter
of part D1, around the radio access hatch
holes, and along each of the dashed lines
etched on D1.
Key the pre-fit, and now glue covered, D1
balsa top deck (glue/etch side down) to tabs
along side of boat and at ribs and set into
position. Pinch around top decking and F9
sub deck to make certain you have achieved
a proper bond. Especially in the area of the
electronics access hatch, go over all joints
and edges and make certain the deck is
properly seated.
Build Instructions
© 2013 Stevens AeroModel all rights reserved. Page 11 of 25
Bottom View
Transom
1/8” Diameter x 15/16”
Length Aluminum Tubing

Hull Construction Continued
☐Lay in a thin bead of medium CA glue within
the seams of hull where R3 ribs and D1
decking come together.
☐Seal bottom of radio access hatches with
epoxy. Mix 1/2 oz. of epoxy resin and
distribute 1/3 of pot to rear hatch and 2/3 of
pot within the forward access hatch. Rock
boat fore and aft and side to side to “wash”
epoxy around the bottom of the access hatch.
When epoxy has completely covered the
bottom of hatches set the hull aside on a flat
surface and allow epoxy to cure. Note: When
using 30 minute epoxy: a heat gun can be
used to warm epoxy causing it to reduce
viscosity and flow easier.
☐Fill gap between deck and basswood leading
edge with a high quality balsa filler. Use filler
to fill any other gaps at tab and notch
locations and along the seams at ribs R3 and
top decking D1. Allow filler to cure before
sanding.
☐Sand the hull to a smooth finish removing the
excess balsa filler. We suggest a sanding
block loaded with 120 and 240 grit paper.
Reduce the basswood nose stock in width
and sand it to generally flow into the sides of
the hull at ribs R3. Additionally you may wish
to shape the basswood nose and round the
seams between ribs R3 and top decking D1.
It is important, however, that you leave a nice
sharp edge where the transom and R3 ribs
meet the plywood F13 hull bottom.
Build Instructions
© 2013 Stevens AeroModel all rights reserved. Page 12 of 25
Transom
Leave Edge Sharp

Motor Mount
☐Locate part M2 and make a decision about
the servo you will be using. If you will be
using an HS-55 servo over the smaller
HS-35HD, use a sharp #11 blade to cut away
the “slug” which will enlarge the servo pocket
accordingly.
☐Fit and bond ply motor mount parts M1, M2,
M3, and M5 together as illustrated.
☐Fit and bond the balsa part M4 to the motor
mount assembly to the motor mount
assembly as illustrated.
☐Knock the top edge of M4 flat with a sanding
block to allow part M5 to fit flush with the top
surfaces of the motor mount assembly.
☐Fit and bond balsa part M6 to top of motor
mount assembly as illustrated.
☐Use a sanding block to shape the leading
edge of the motor mount assembly round as
described in the photo below.
Build Instructions
© 2013 Stevens AeroModel all rights reserved. Page 13 of 25
M2
M2
M5
M1
M3
M2
M5
M3
M4
M4
M4
M6
M6Round

Electronics Hatch Assembly
☐Prior to assembly of the Electronics Hatch
locate ply parts H1 and H2. Sand both sides
of parts and the edges of H1 round to prevent
the hatch top from later wearing the rubber
gasket material.
☐Assemble Electronics Hatch from ply parts H1
and H2 as illustrated.
Prior to completing the latch installation it will be
necessary to thoroughly seal the completed hatch
cover and wooden latch using the techniques
described on page 16 of this manual.
☐Insert one 4-40 x 3/8 in. Machine Screw
through one #4 Flat Washer and install
through latch as illustrated (Updated R1.16
nylon latch illustrated).
☐Place one #4 Flat Washer on top of hatch
cover, centered over pivot hole for latch
assembly. Now, install latch to top of hatch
cover. (Updated R1.16 nylon latch Illustrated)
☐Retain latch assembly to hatch cover by
installing a third #4 Flat Washer and 4-40 nut
over end of machine screw. Snug nut to
remove any play in assembly but allow latch
to spin with minimal resistance. Secure nut
with thread locking compound or thin CA glue.
Build Instructions
© 2013 Stevens AeroModel all rights reserved. Page 14 of 25
H1
H1 H2
H2
Nylon Latch
4-40 x 3/8 in. Machine Screw
#4 Washer
#4 Washer
H1
#4 Washer
4-40 Nut
Secure with Thread Locker
Bottom View
Bottom View

Air Rudder
☐Laminate/glue the rudder mounting tabs C1
and control horn C2 from two layers of
identical shaped, but cross grained 1/32
plywood parts. To laminate, you’ll need to set
the identical C1 and C2 parts atop of each
other (C1+C1 and C2+C2) with a thin layer of
glue in between the parts to be bonded. Prior
to the glue curing you will need to carefully
match the part edges.
☐In the same manner as above, laminate ply
parts V1 and V2. Place V2 flat on your work
table and match to the the front, top, and
back edge of V1. Once again, use a slow
setting CA glue.
Tip: Minimize mis-alignment of the
laminations by inserting one or both of the
rudder mounting tabs or control horns within
the slots at the leading edge of the rudder.
DO NOT BOND the mounting tab to the
rudder at this time.
☐Now laminate V3 on top of V1. Be careful not
to get excess glue within the water rudder
pocket that is formed at the bottom of the V1/
V2/V3 assembly.
Follow the same process as given in the prior
step to use the rudder mounting tabs as
alignment aids.
Build Instructions
© 2013 Stevens AeroModel all rights reserved. Page 15 of 25
V1
DO NOT BOND
V3
V2
V1
V2
V1
DO NOT BOND
V3
V2
V1
V2
C1
C2
C2
C1
C1+C1
C2+C2
front
back
top
leading
edge

Sealing and Finishing with DEFT
☐Seal the grain! The plywood bottom requires
little sealing of the grain, in-fact, just a few
coats of DEFT lacquer spray will smooth it out
nicely. The top and sides of hull, however,
will benefit greatly from a couple of thin coats
of sanding sealer. I suggest you make your
own sealer from a mixture of equal amounts
(by volume) of DEFT brushing lacquer and
talc (baby powder) creating a pancake batter
like mix. Apply an even coat of sanding
sealer exterior surface of hull allowing to dry
(about 30 min) before sanding smooth with
400 grit paper. Apply sealer in same fashion
to vertical fin (rudder), battery hatch, and
motor mount. Repeat process at least once.
☐Now coat hull, hatch cover, motor mount, and
vertical fin with at least two coats of DEFT
clear lacquer spray, allow to dry, then add
your color scheme from a compatible lacquer
based paint. Follow up color spray with at
least 3 coats of DEFT. Notes: Sand lightly
with 600 grit paper between applications of
lacquer. When applying each coat of lacquer
do not forget to seal the interior of the access
hatches. Additionally, don’t forget to seal the
inside of the motor mount.
Final Assembly
☐Apply self-stick gasket material to top of hull
matching pre-drilled holes in gasket to those
in the hull. Tip: It will be easier to position the
gasket if you, initially, only remove a corner of
the backing paper, position the gasket, then
remove the rest of the backing paper as the
gasket is set into final position.
☐Install rubber rudder post bushing with
flanged base 13/16” from end of 2-3/4”. length
of 3/32” diameter wire.
☐Now, install rudder post with bushing seated
against deck top. Retain with CA glue.
Build Instructions
© 2013 Stevens AeroModel all rights reserved. Page 16 of 25
Rubber Bushing
13/16
3/32 x 2-3/4” Wire
Gaskets
Completed Rudder Post

Final Assembly Continued
☐Mount rudder servo using hardware supplied
by servo manufacture. Temporarily connect
servo to radio and center electronically.
☐Set the motor mount in position on top of the
hull assembly then fit the completed C1 and
C2 plywood rudder mount and control horn to
rudder and post as illustrated below with
control horn on same side as the servo.
☐Assemble the Park 250 [SUPA1510-15]
motor with cruciform back plate and set screw
prop adapter [EFLA1927] as illustrated below.
☐Insert the motor leads from the ESC through
the motor mount and connect to the motor.
☐Mount motor to motor mount using four
provided #2 x 1/4 in. screws. Place two #4
nylon washers between the cruciform mount
and the motor mount to shim the right side of
the motor (when viewed from stern of boat).
☐Thread ESC motor supply leads and servo
wire through hole between front and rear
hatch as illustrated.
Build Instructions
© 2013 Stevens AeroModel all rights reserved. Page 17 of 25
C1
C2
Control Horn
Servo
EFLA1927
SUPA1510-15
Left
Right
#4 Nylon Washer (Right Side Only)
SAME SIDE
Tip: Waterproof the motor/esc
electrical connections with a
length of 3/32” shrink tube
installed over each connector.

Final Assembly Continued
☐Use a 5/64” hex driver to secure motor mount
to hull using 7 of the provided #2 x 3/8”
socket head screws. Set screws to just snug
mount to gasket surface then apply only 1/2
turn to each screw to mildly compress gasket.
☐Create the Rudder Control Rod, cut the
provided 1/32” diameter wire into two lengths
1” and 2-3/4”. Now, using small needle nose
pliers, bend a “Z” in one end of each length.
Join the these lengths of wire by overlapping
each within a 1” length of heat shrink. Shrink
the tubing with a heat gun to retain parts.
☐Trim your servo control horn so that when
installed as illustrated it will not drag along the
hull of the boat. Mount the control rod to one
of the outer most holes on both the servo and
the rudder control horns.
With the HS-35HD servo we prefer to use the
long horn, trimmed as illustrated, with the
control rod in the 3rd or 4th hole out from the
servo center.
At the ruder end of the control rod we prefer
the “Z” bend to enter from the bottom as
shown as this nets the best clearance from
the propeller.
Build Instructions
© 2013 Stevens AeroModel all rights reserved. Page 18 of 25
2-3/4”
1”
1” 2-3/4”
1” Length Heat Shrink

Final Assembly Continued
☐Rudder is retained to rudder post with second
rubber bushing as illustrated.
☐Make connections to receiver for rudder servo
(to aileron channel) and throttle. Now, secure
(stuff?) the receiver on the inside of the hull.
☐Install hook and loop tape to (not provided) to
battery tray and along inside edge of
electronics hatch for receiver. Test fit your
battery.
☐Center the hatch cover to hatch gasket then
slide the “hooks” of the cover forward until
cover seats properly compressing the
forward part of the hatch gasket.
☐Locate the three #2 x 7/16 in. “flanged” socket
head screws. These screws will feature a
“welded” washer under the screw head.
☐Retain the hatch cover by installing the #2 x
7/16” screws through latch, hatch, and then
into the hull. Tighten screws until you just
begin to see the gasket compress.
Build Instructions
© 2013 Stevens AeroModel all rights reserved. Page 19 of 25
#2 x 7/16 in. Flanged Socket Head Screws
This step continued on next page...
Rubber Bushing
center “Hooks”

Final Assembly Continued
Note: Installing #2 x 7/16 in. screws too
tight will impair the operation of the latch,
deform the hatch, and ultimately lead to
water leaks.
After all your hard work installing and
adjusting the hatch cover retaining screws It
is suggested to now back them out of the
assembly and treat holes with thin CA glue to
harden the path cut by the screw threads
through the hull. Once the CA glue has
cured, re-install hatch retention screws in the
same manner.
Latch Operation
With the leading edge of the hatch properly
centered and seated forward to allow “hooks”
to engage under the forward lip of the access
hatch, support WaterBoard Mini™ hull over a
flat surface, apply light pressure to rear of
hatch gently compressing hatch gasket, now
twist latch to engage under hatch cover
retention screw heads.
Note, some minor fitting and or tweaking may
be required to achieve smooth and secure
operation of the latch. Once setup the latch
requires little maintenance.
Our updated nylon hatch latch, part
number: SAP-WBMINI/HLK-N, is pictured
in the photo above. This updated part
requires no sealing and will hold up very
well under the harshest of conditions.
Complete!
Congratulations, your WaterBoard Minitm is
complete! Grab the Navy Seals (more on that
later) and report to your local watering hole!
Build Instructions
© 2013 Stevens AeroModel all rights reserved. Page 20 of 25
...continued from previous page.