Stevens Aero Model EDGE 540 User manual

R1.0
Span 50” / Length 45” / Area 440 Sq.” / Weight 26-30oz
© 2005 Stevens AeroModel. Page 1 of 46

WARRANTY
Stevens AeroModel guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship
at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or
modification. In no case shall Stevens AeroModel’s liability exceed the original cost of the
purchased kit. Further, Stevens AeroModel reserves the right to change or modify this warranty
without notice.
In that Stevens AeroModel has no control over the final assembly or material used for final
assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by
the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user–assembled product,
the user accepts all resulting liability.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer
is advised to return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.
Special recognition of:
Scott Stoops for thoroughly abusing the model prior to production and providing timely feedback on flight performance
and model setup.
Craig Killer for your work on the “Killer” Edge 540 logo.
The RC Groups Community for being the greatest sounding board for vendor to customer communications.
© 2005 Stevens AeroModel. Page 2 of 46

REQUIRED TO COMPLETE KIT:
Kit Contents:
1. Rolled Computer Drawn Plan Sheets
2. Illustrated Instruction Manual
3. Laser Cut Balsa and Hardwood Parts Sheets (See Parts Inventory Sheet)
4. 1 - Clear Canopy
5. 1 - Cowl Assembly (two piece)
6. 1 - 19.5” Carbon Wing Spar
1. 2 - 20” Carbon Trailing Edge Flat Stock
8. Large Hardware Bag
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2 - GWS 2” Light Foam Wheels
2 - .045” x 11.5” Wire
1 - 1/32” x 11.5” Wire
2 - Pre-Formed Landing Gear Struts.
2 - 6” Paper Tube.
1 - 1/8” x 2” Hardwood Dowel
9. Small Hardware Bag
4 – 1/8” x 0.474” Aluminum Tube
2 – Neo Magnet 3/16” x 1/16”
2 – Nylon Washer / Shims
1 – Pre-Formed 3/32 diameter Elevator Joiner Wire
8 – Blind Nut 4-40
2 – Blind Nut 6-32
2 – Knurled Head Screw 6-32 x ½”
8 – Machine Screw 4-40 x 3/8”
12 - #0x3/16” Screws
1 - #30 Stranded Kevlar Tape 12”
4 – Du-Bro Micro II Horn
4 – Du-Bro Micro II E/Z Link
6 – Sig Easy Hinge
1 – Tail Wheel ½” #60
Recommended Finishing Items:
1. Dubro Mini E/Z Connectors DUB845*
2. 1-2 Roll(s) of Solarfilm So-Lite, Nelson Lite, or Ultracote Lite – Iron on Film Covering.
Suggested Radio Gear:
1. 4-5 Channel Transmitter (4ch using “Y” harness for ailerons)
2. 4 - Sub Micro Servos (Hitec HS-55 or equivalent)
3. 2 - 6” Servo Extension
4. 2 - 12” Servo Extension
5. 1 - Micro Receiver
Suggested Power Systems:
1. Hacker A30-16M / Phoenix 35 ESC / 11x5.5 APC Thin Electric / 11.1v 3S1P ThunderPower 2100 PL. (300w)
2. Apache A30M-18T / Phoenix 35 ESC / 12x6 APC Thin Electric / 11.1v 3S1P ThunderPower 2100 PL. (300w)
3. Hacker A30-28S / Phoenix 25 ESC / 10x5 APC Thin Electric / 11.1v 321P Apogee 2170 or 2480 (250w)*
4. Apache A30S-30T / Phoenix 25 ESC / 10x5 APC Thin Electric / 11.1v 3S1P Apogee 2170 or 2480 (250w)*
*Requires motor stand offs to achieve proper location of motor output shaft.
Other Items You Will Need:
1. Thin and Medium CA (super glue)
2. Five Minute Epoxy
3. Wax Paper or Plastic Wrap
4. Sharp Hobby Knife
5. Fine Grit Sand Paper
6. Rat-Tail File
7. Masking Tape
8. Balsa Wood Filler
© 2005 Stevens AeroModel. Page 3 of 46

GENERAL ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS:
Thank you, for purchasing this Stevens AeroModel Edge 540. This kit provides the builder and pilot a refreshing change
of pace from heavy “ARF” style plywood box airframe construction and blends stick and tissue design methods of the past
with state of the art CAD technology and precision interlocking laser cut parts; the result is something you will find truly
exceptional to build and fly. Please keep in mind that this kit is intended for a novice-intermediate builder and
intermediate-advanced pilot. If you do not meet these criteria it is recommended to seek help from a more experienced
builder / pilot.
Best Regards,
Bill Stevens
[email protected]
Stevens AeroModel “Laser Engineered Kits”
4550 Beaumont Rd.
Colorado Springs, CO 80916
Assembly Tips
READ THE INSTRUCTIONS and the plan sheet prior to starting any work!
Tape plans to work table. Cover with clear painters drop clot, wax paper, or plastic wrap.
Join all joints with Thin CA unless otherwise specified.
DO NOT REMOVE THE PARTS FROM THE BALSA SHEETS UNTIL REQUIRED! In-fact while the balsa
parts are still retained in the sheets now is a good time to run a few good swipes with a sanding block over both
sides of the sheet to remove any resin/residue from the laser cutting process.
DO NOT FORCE THE FIT – when in doubt double check your parts – Many of the joints will be exceptionally
snug it is recommended that each part be worked into position slowly by rocking the part back and forth. I like
to use a rat-tail file to knock the edge off of the interlocking components to ease assembly. If you feel that you
have a poor connection check first to see that the part is not upside down. Reference each piece against the
plan sheet or photo.
Making solid glue joints: Hold parts together on top of plan sheet using moderate pressure to fit parts - wick thin
CA into joint. (There is no need to pin parts to work table as all pieces interlock and self - jig.)
Tired of gluing your fingers to your work? – try this: wrap masking tape around your thumb and index fingers
to prevent getting “stuck”.
© 2005 Stevens AeroModel. Page 9 of 46

Tail Feathers
1. Build the Rudder, Vertical Stabilizer, Elevator, and Horizontal Stabilizer. Parts are grouped according to tail
section component on the 1/8” balsa sheet. Work with each component separately. Assemble over plan sheet,
removing only those parts necessary to complete each individual component. Start each assembly by building
up the outside edges (just like a puzzle) – finish by inserting center truss parts. Though the parts fall together
and self jig, pay particular attention to orientation and making solid glue joints.
Wire Joiner 3
32" x 2.75"
Trim to length if required
and slightly adjust shape
so that elevator assembly
lays flat to your building
surface with no binding or
interference to horiz.
stabilizer.
1/32" Ply Doubles Top AND
Bottom of Elevator Assembly
- Align with drill holes for
control horn.
1/8" Aluminium tubing joiner
bushing - nests within elevator
assembly as illustrated.
2. Elevator Joining Wire. Verify that the provided 1/8” aluminum bushings are of the appropriate length and nest
within the elevator assembly as indicated on the plan sheet. Capture the bushing within the elevator using the
1/32” ply elevator doublers as indicated on the plan sheet. Be careful to avoid getting glue inside the bushing.
Allow adequate time to dry then test fit the elevator joining wire. This wire is pre-formed but you will be required
to do some minor adjusting (use heavy pliers) to the wire joiner until your joined elevator assembly lies perfectly
flat on your work surface and there are no interference issues with the horizontal stabilizer.
3. Sand all surfaces with fine grit sand paper, rounding leading edge pieces while leaving trailing edge parts
square, in preparation for your preferred hinging method (Centered CA Hinging is Recommended).
Fuselage
Fuselage components are exceptionally brittle until the entire assembly is complete – this is especially true aft of the wing
saddle. Handle parts accordingly and do not force the fit!
1. Assemble the major fuselage components; fuselage sides and formers F3, F4, F5, FB1, FB2, and FB10. Align
parts with rolled plan sheet and wick CA into joints.
Optional wing retention
using 316" Neo Magnet.
LEAVE OPEN
COOLING AIR
EXIT POINT
© 2005 Stevens AeroModel. Page 10 of 46

2. Assemble fuselage bottom plate. Tab 3/32 balsa part FB2 (assembled from FB2a/b) to FB1 (assembled from
FB1a/b/c) as illustrated below. To avoid warping the assembly set flat on your work table prior to gluing.
3. Add cross braces to the fuselage bottom plate starting forward and working aft. Begin with FB3 and FB4 which
forms the leading edge of the battery access. Next, install FB5, FB6, and FB7 which forms the trailing edge of
the battery access. Finish by installing FB8 and FB9. Reference photos below.
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4. Assemble battery access hatch by aligning FB10 atop FB11. Once satisfied with alignment, wick thin CA glue
between parts. Photo below shows completed hatch.
5. Install magnetic battery cover catch. DON’T SCREW THIS UP – READ ON! Magnets are polarity sensitive.
Locate your two 3/16” x 1/16” rare earth magnets notice that the magnets are stuck together along one side of
each magnet – reversing one magnet will result in the magnets repelling each other. Since we are relying upon
the magnets to act as a catch mechanism for the hatch they must attract each other. Allow the magnets to stick
back together – use a permanent marker to mark the outside surface on either side of the stack. Now, separate
the magnet stack and install one magnet within FB7 making certain that the side you marked with permanent
marker is facing INSIDE the fuselage. The battery hatch cover (completed in the previous step) has two 3/16”
cut-outs to accept magnets. Test fit the cover to the fuselage and mark the side of the cover which corresponds
to the location of FB7. Now, install the second magnet, within the battery cover assembly, with the marked side
DOWN. The photos below reference the magnet install and completed fuselage bottom plate assembly.
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6. Assemble the fuselage firewall. Locate the 1/8” lite ply firewall parts F1 and F1a. Take note of the locating
marks etched on part F1 this marked side will become the back side of the firewall. Locate part F1a atop F1
and wick thin CA glue between parts – wick glue in from both sides until you are satisfied that the part is
properly bonded. Finally, drive the four 4-40 blind nuts into position on the back side of F1 as illustrated below;
secure these blind nuts by wicking thin CA along the outside of the nut – do not allow glue to come in contact
with the internal threaded portion of the blind nuts!
7. Assemble the battery tray BT1 to the slots on the back side of the firewall as indicated below.
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8. Locate the 3/32” balsa former F3 (assembled from F3a/b). Key F3 to the aft edge of the battery tray BT1, then
key the fuselage side to span the assembly as illustrated below. Repeat for the opposite fuselage side.
9. Double the aft servo pockets on the INSIDE of each fuselage side using the 1/32” plywood doublers SR3.
10. Add the wing spar carry through and locating dowel re-enforcements. Locate the 1/8” lite ply part BT2 (Early
kits have this marked as WS1) and key within the fuselage to the top of BT1. Next, locate the 1/32” ply part
BT3 and key within the fuselage to the top of BT2. Reference the plan sheet for specific location.
© 2005 Stevens AeroModel. Page 14 of 46

11. Assemble the spar carry through. Locate the 1/8” lite ply parts WS1a, WS1b, and WS1c. These are assembled
to form a box that spans the wing spar carry through cut-outs in the fuselage sides and interlocks with the
notches in BT1.
12. Install the 3/32” balsa former F2 and 1/8” balsa former F7 as illustrated below.
13. Key the fuselage bottom plate (assembled in steps 1-5) to the bottom of the fuselage assembly as illustrated
below.
© 2005 Stevens AeroModel. Page 15 of 46

14. Again, working atop your flat building surface, install formers F4 (assembled from F4a/b/c/d), F5 (assembled
from F5a/b/c), and F6 as illustrated below.
15. Install 3/32” balsa rear fuselage top former, FT1. Next, install 1/8” balsa former F8 which keys to FT1 and the
formers F3, F4, and F5. Reference the plan sheet and photos for more detail.
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16. Install 3/32” balsa formers F10, these nest on either side of F8 and key to FT1. Make certain F10 is properly
nested to FT1 as these formers create the channel to which your Vertical Stab. will install to. With F10 installed
add the 1/16” balsa F9 stringers as illustrated below.
17. Install the tail gear block. The 1/16” plywood tail gear support is glued to the underside of the fuselage
assembly as illustrated below. Finish the tail block by installing the 1/8” balsa part marked F12 opposite F11
and within the tail of the fuselage as indicated in the photos below.
18. Install the 1/16” balsa formers F13 to span the battery hatch and fuselage sides as illustrated below.
© 2005 Stevens AeroModel. Page 17 of 46

19. Install the forward sheeting. Locate the 1/16” balsa sheeting and note the score marks along the bend radius.
Align the sheeting between the forward edge of the fuselage and former F3 with the score marks positioned to
the INSIDE of the fuselage. Stand the sheeting up 90 degrees to the top of the fuselage using masking tape to
hold the sheet wood into position. Wick a few small drops of thin CA glue between the fuselage top and bottom
edge of sheeting. Use just enough glue to hold the part so that you may remove the masking tape. With the
tape removed finish off the glue joint. Once the joint is dry, gently wrap the sheeting to the center of the
fuselage and secure with thin CA glue. Please notice that the sheeting has been left slightly long, thus you
may need to trim or sand the center edge of the sheeting slightly to achieve the proper fit.
Tip: Avoid wetting the sheeting – Wetting the sheeting will cause the wood to shrink. We have scored the
inside of these sheets to assist in installing it dry. However, sometimes the wood resists bending and will crack
if forced to bend. If you find it necessary to wet the sheeting to facilitate the bend then follow these guidelines:
Use only glass cleaner or rubbing alcohol. Wet only the outside of the sheeting. Wrap the sheeting into
position and secure with masking tape to hold the shape until the sheet is dry. Once dry complete the install by
adjusting the fit at the center section and gluing the sheet where it makes contact with the fuselage former.
20. Prior to install the aft sheeting, you will need to sand a slight bevel along the top edge of fuselage formers F10
as illustrated in the first photo below. Now Locate the 1/32” balsa sheeting for the turtle deck and note the
score marks along the bend radius. Align the sheeting between the forward edge fuselage former F3 and the aft
edge of the fuselage. with the score marks positioned to the INSIDE of the fuselage. Stand the sheeting up 90
degrees to the top of the fuselage using masking tape to hold the sheet wood into position. Wick a few small
drops of thin CA glue between the fuselage top and bottom edge of sheeting. Use just enough glue to hold the
part so that you may remove the masking tape. With the tape removed finish off the glue joint. Once the joint is
dry, gently wrap the sheeting to the center of the fuselage and secure with thin CA glue. Please notice that the
sheeting has been left slightly long, thus you may need to trim or sand the center edge of the sheeting slightly to
achieve the proper fit.
© 2005 Stevens AeroModel. Page 18 of 46

21. Finish off the fuselage assembly by filing any joints, seams or other imperfections with a high quality balsa wood
filler. Sand with fine grit paper to a smooth finish. Be sure to sand a slight bevel in the aft end of the fuselage
at F6 extending aft to make for a gentle transition to the Rudder surface and prevent control horn binding.
Motor Mount
1. Locate the 1/8” lite ply sheet that contains the motor mount parts and follow the assembly photos below.
© 2005 Stevens AeroModel. Page 19 of 46

These photos detail the optional parts required for adding stick mounted gearbox support. You must
supply the 10mm square mounting stick.
2. Double the face of the motor mount with the 1/16” plywood mount doubler as illustrated below. The motor
mount has been pre-drilled to fit the radial mounted Apache A30M-30T or Hacker A30-28M motors. Test fit
your motor to the motor mount using 4-40 blind nuts and steel 4-40 screws (included in your hardware pack).
3. The motor mount bolts to the firewall using the supplied nylon 4-40 bolts as illustrated below.
© 2005 Stevens AeroModel. Page 20 of 46

Wing
Basic assembly methodology: This wing uses our D-Loc™ interlocking d-tube construction method. When assembled
on a flat work surface, this wing will jig together and self align to create one of the straightest wings you have ever built.
Each part relies on the successive component to achieve this; we suggest that you rely upon the friction of the part fit or
tack glue your parts only at the tab and notch joint to hold the wing together throughout the building process - hold off on
applying liberal amounts of CA glue until you have completed the assembly – this allows the individual components to
shift and align as each part is added – once all the pieces are in place the assembly will be pulled together straight and
true.
Tip! Since this is a two part wing it will help you to lay your parts out on your work table in a symmetric fashion
and build both the right and left wing at one time this will prevent you from inadvertently building two of the
same wing half.
1. Build the following parts from sub-parts as illustrated below. A template has been provided on the plan sheet
for you to reference:
•Two each W2 from W2a, W2b, W2c
•Two each W5 from W5a, W5b, W5c
2. Locate the 1/16” balsa ribs R2, R3, R4, R5, and the 1/8” balsa rib R6; key these to the 1/16” balsa wing spar as
illustrated below – reference the plan sheet for part locations. For now do not glue these ribs in – let the friction
hold them in position.
Double Vision - Remember to build a right and left wing panel though these instructions show the process for
building a single wing panel you should be building two symmetric panels. It helps to lay your wing out as
illustrated below to be absolutely certain you are building a right and left.
© 2005 Stevens AeroModel. Page 21 of 46

3. Interlock the leading edge jig LE1 with the assembly. Note that LE1 is sensitive to orientation and thus has
been designed so that only one side of LE1 will properly interlock with rib R7. If LE1 doesn’t fit to rib R7 then
flip the part around. Once properly seated into each rib – tack glue the leading edge jig to hold it in place.
Tip: Slightly pinch/squish the end tabs of LE1 to facilitate the fit with the notches in R7. Make certain your
leading edge jig is fully seated into the notches at the front of each rib.
4. Locate the 1/16” balsa ribs R3a and install to wing spar in the provided notches as illustrated below – reference
the plan sheet for part locations.
5. Assemble the 1/16” balsa trailing edge jig TE2 with the 1/8” balsa trailing edge TE3. Again this jig only fits one
direction. Only glue this part at rib R7 and tab/notch locations. Once complete, key this assembly to the wing
panel spanning ribs R2-R7 as illustrated below.
© 2005 Stevens AeroModel. Page 22 of 46

6. Add the 1/32” plywood spar carry through re-enforcement rings W4 to the wing panel. These tab into position
using the notches in the spar at rib locations R2, R3, R3a. First, inspect each rib to see it is properly seated to
the notches in the spar. Next, make certain that W4 seats flush against the spar and that the hole in W4
matches that in each rib. Once satisfied with the fit, wick thin CA glue around part W4.
7. Now it is time to add R1 to the assembly. Locate the 1/8” balsa rib R1 and key to assembly spanning the
leading edge LE1 and spar S1 as illustrated below:
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8. R1 is going to see a fair amount of stress – the cross grain sheeting will make it tough as nails. Butt W2
(assembled in step 1 of wing assembly) against the backside of spar S1 and inside of rib R1; align with the
edges of rib R1 then glue into position as illustrated below.
Complete this step by keying the final 1/32” ply doubler W3 to the inside of the wing assembly; W3 keys to the
spar S1 atop the previously assembled W2 doubler. Finally, install the 6-32 wing retention blind nut. The blind
nut installs on the inside surface of the wing panel and must be secured with thin CA glue. DO NOT allow glue
to come in contact with the threads inside the blind nut. Reference photos and plan sheet for more detail.
Tip: It helps to tack glue this part at the spar/rib location then slightly lift the part, lay down your CA glue along
rib R1, then CAREFULLY lay the cross grain doubler back in position being diligent not to stretch or twist the
part as you lay it back down.
9. Glue 1/8” balsa part TE1 between the aft end of ribs R1 and R2 as indicated in the photo below; TE1 should fit
flush with the tabs on the back side of the these ribs.
© 2005 Stevens AeroModel. Page 24 of 46

10. Install the 1/16” D-Loc™ sheeting, part W1, keying to the spar tab and notch locations as indicated in the photo
below. The sheeting is keyed to only fit one direction on the wing panel; reverse the part if the fit seems
incorrect. Additionally, W1 is scored along the inside surface to facilitate bending, mount W1 with the score
marks facing the inside of the wing assembly. Seat the sheeting along the spar by gently rubbing your finger
across the top of each tab/notch joint along the spar then tack glue at each notch point. Please note that we
are only gluing this sheeting to the wing spar – do not wrap W1 down across ribs at this point.
Next, invert the assembly and, while supporting the sheeting from the back side, wick thin CA glue along the
inside wing spar to sheeting joints as indicated in the photo below.
Repeat this process for the opposite side of the wing panel.
11. Working on your flat building surface – let the wing rest upon the built in building jigs (one on both sides of each
rib) and use something like this level with weight stacked on it to evenly distribute weight across the wing panel
holding it flat to your building board. With the wing panel held flat to the building board, gently work down the
W1 sheeting to interlock with each tab/notch location on the wing ribs. Secure the sheeting by tack gluing the
sheeting at the tab and notch points at each rib-sheet joint.
Invert the wing assembly and repeat the above process for the opposite W1 sheeting.
© 2005 Stevens AeroModel. Page 25 of 46