Stevens Aero Model G-480 User manual

© 2004 Stevens AeroModel. Page 1 of 33
G-480
V1.11
Span 45” / Length 44” / Area 400 Sq.” / Weight 22-28oz

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***Warning***
Overpowering this model with a heavier / more powerful system is not recommended.
Similar to full-scale and giant scale models this high performance model requires careful
throttle management. When tracking through a down-line it is mandatory to govern the
use of throttle, slowing the models descent, to avoid over stressing the airframe.

© 2004 Stevens AeroModel. Page 3 of 33
KIT UPDATE See drawing below for illustration of the optional aft servo pocket location. Glue this optional part
in position as illustrated when you assembly your fuselage sides. This option eliminates the pull pull assembly
for the elevator and allows for greater CG adjustment with heavier motor systems.
AA
F8
BB
Requires 12"
Extension
BB
F17
Optional

© 2004 Stevens AeroModel. Page 4 of 33
REQUIRED TO COMPLETE KIT:
Kit Contents:
 Rolled Computer Drawn Plan Sheets
 Illustrated Instruction Manual
 Laser Cut Balsa and Hardwood Parts Sheets (See Parts Inventory Sheet)
 1 - Clear Canopy
 1 - Cowl Assembly
 Large Hardware Bag
• 2 - 1/8” x 4.5” hardwood dowel.
• 2 - 1/8” x 1.25” hardwood dowel.
• 2 - 1/32” x 12” Music Wire.
• 2 - 3/32” x 7-7/8” Music Wire.
• 1 - 1/32” ID x 12” Plastic Tubing
• 1 - 1/8” x 6” aluminum tube.
• 1 - 8” Length of Velcro Tie Wrap.
 Small Hardware Bag
• 8 - #0x3/16” Screws and Wrench (Wheel Pant Hardware).
• 1- 2” Length of Kevlar Thread.
• 1 - 1/16” x 1/4” aluminum tube.
• CA Hinges.
• 2 - Clear Pull/Pull exit re-enforcement rings.
Recommended Finishing Items:
1. Dubro DUB150MW 1.5” Mini lite wheels or 1-7/8” Hobby Lobby LYT Wheels (2-Pack) if using wheel pants.
2. Sullivan 1/2” Micro Tail wheel.
3. Dubro Micro Pull/Pull Assembly DUB846
4. Dubro Mini E/Z Connectors DUB845
5. 1-2 Roll(s) of Solarfilm So-Lite, Nelson Lite, or Ultracote Lite – Iron on Film Covering.
Suggested Radio Gear:
1. 4-5 Channel Transmitter (4ch using “Y” harness for ailerons)
2. 4 - Sub Micro Servos (Hitec HS-55 or equivalent)
3. 1 - 6” Y-Servo Extension
4. 2 - 12” Servo Extension
5. 1 - Micro Receiver
6. 1 - 25A ESC (Castle Phoenix 25 recommended)
Suggested Power Systems:
 Hacker B20-15L 4:1 / 10x5-11x5.5 APC Thin Electric / 9-10 Cell Nimh or Nicad 2/3A planform or 3 cell Lipoly
capable of 16A Continuous 22A Burst.
 Axi 2808/20 / 9x5-10x5 APC Thin Electric / 9-10 Cell NIMH 2/3A or 3 cell Lipoly capable of 16A Continuous
22A Burst.
 Axi 2808/24 / 10x5-11x5.5 APC Thin Electric / 9-10 Cell NIMH 2/3A or 3 cell Lipoly capable of 16A Continuous
22A Burst.
Other Items You Will Need:
1. Thin CA (super glue)
2. Five Minute Epoxy
3. Wax Paper or Plastic Wrap
4. Razor Blade(s)
5. Fine Grit Sand Paper
6. Rat-Tail File
7. Clear Tape
8. Balsa Wood Filler

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GENERAL ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS:
Thank you, for purchasing this Stevens Aeromodel G-480 – Groove. This kit provides the builder and pilot a refreshing
change of pace from heavy “ARF” style plywood box airframe construction and blends stick and tissue design methods of
the past with state of the art CAD technology and precision interlocking laser cut parts; the result is something you will find
truly exceptional to build and fly. Please keep in mind that this kit is intended for a novice-intermediate builder and
intermediate-advanced pilot. If you do not meet these criteria it is recommended to seek help from a more experienced
builder / pilot.
Best Regards,
Bill Stevens
[email protected]
Stevens AeroModel “Laser Engineered Kits”
4550 Beaumont Rd.
Colorado Springs, CO 80916
Assembly Tips
 READ THE INSTRUCTIONS and the plan sheet prior to starting any work!
 Tape plans to work table. Cover with clear painters drop clot, wax paper, or plastic wrap.
 Join all joints with Thin CA unless otherwise specified.
 DO NOT REMOVE THE PARTS FROM THE BALSA SHEETS UNTIL REQUIRED! In-fact while the balsa
parts are still retained in the sheets now is a good time to run a few good swipes with a sanding block over both
sides of the sheet to remove any resin/residue from the laser cutting process.
 DO NOT FORCE THE FIT – when in doubt double check your parts – Many of the joints will be exceptionally
snug it is recommended that each part be worked into position slowly by rocking the part back and forth. I like
to use a rat-tail file to knock the edge off of the interlocking components to ease assembly. If you feel that you
have a poor connection check first to see that the part is not upside down. Reference each piece against the
plan sheet or photo.
 Making solid glue joints: Hold parts together on top of plan sheet using moderate pressure to fit parts - wick thin
CA into joint. (There is no need to pin parts to work table as all pieces interlock and self - jig.)

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Tail Feathers
1. Build the Rudder, Vertical Stabilizer, Elevator, and Horizontal Stabilizer. Parts are grouped according to tail
section component on the 1/8” balsa sheet. Work with each component separately. Assemble over plan sheet,
removing only those parts necessary to complete each individual component. Start each assembly by building
up the outside edges (just like a puzzle) – finish by inserting center truss parts. Though the parts fall together
and self jig, pay particular attention orientation and making solid glue joints.
CC
AA
FF
EE
DD DD
E
E
FF
BB
BB
AA
2. Elevator Joining Tube. Verify that the provided 1/8” aluminum tube is of the appropriate length and rough the
surface with fine grit sand paper to remove dirt, oil, and debris, from the tube. Wipe tube with rubbing alcohol,
then Using thin CA tack the joining tube to each elevator halve and allow to dry. Once dry use a small amount
of 5-minute epoxy to create a fillet between the wood and the metal tube.
3. Sand all surfaces with fine grit sand paper, rounding leading edge pieces while leaving trailing edge parts
square, in preparation for your preferred hinging method (Centered CA Hinging is Recommended).
Fuselage
Fuselage components are exceptionally brittle until the entire assembly is complete – this is especially true aft of the wing
saddle. Handle parts accordingly and do not force the fit! Do not glue a part until instructed to do so – failure to
follow this simple instruction may result in a break down of the space time continuum or may result in a fuselage
that is not square and true. To date no one has failed to follow this instruction so the consequences outlined above are
but pure speculation.
1. Let’s assemble the major fuselage components. Assemble Fuselage sides and formers F6, F7, F14, FT1, FB1,
FB2, FB3, and H1. Align parts with rolled plan sheet and wick CA into joints.
AA
BB
F14
F6C
F6D
F6
F6B
F6C
F14B F7B
F7
F7C
F7B
F6A
F14A F7A
FT1
H1
FB3
FB1
FB2

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2. Lay fuselage sides on a flat surface and gently work former F2 into position joining fuselage sides and fuselage
top deck FT1. Presently, we are only concerned with the joints where the top deck meets the formers and
fuselage sides creating a nice square box for the front of the fuselage. Flip the fuselage over and work the
parts into position against a flat surface. See Illustration below.
3. Assemble cross braces into part FB1. Key the assembled part FB1 into position spanning the fuselage sides
and F2. Tack glue fuselage “box” together forward of former F2.
4. Pull the fuselage sides together at the aft end and secure with a piece of tape. Assemble cross braces into part
FB2. Key the assembled part FB2 and F3 into position spanning the fuselage sides. Gently draw fuselage
sides together fitting the notches in the fuselage top deck FT1 into the tabs on the fuselage sides. Lay the
assembly on your work surface inverted and tack glue parts into position. Now Double check your parts fit and
wick thin CA along inside fuselage joints along components assembled thus far. Work slowly and make strong
joints.

© 2004 Stevens AeroModel. Page 12 of 33
5. Install F4a and F4b over wing saddle as indicated below. Secure with CA glue. Span F2, F3, F4a, and F4b
with the 1/16” ply battery tray BT1. Secure BT1 to F2, F3, F4a and F4b with CA glue (make a good strong joint
here use two to three applications of thin CA or one application of thick CA allowing time to cure in-between
applications)
6. Fit Servo rail / fuselage doubler part SR1 inside fuselage to double FT1 servo pocket.
7. Friction Fit former F5A to 1/8” fuselage gussets F5B to create former F5.

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8. Fit F5 to fuselage sides as indicated below.
9. Remove tape-securing tail of fuselage. Assemble FB3 (CA servo tray / cross brace to FB3) and fit to fuselage
bottom spanning F5 and the fuselage sides.
FB3
10. Sand a slight bevel along the edges of part F8 and key to fuselage sides and FB3. Re-secure this area with
tape.
11. Support fuselage assembly upright on a flat surface and tack glue F5, FB3, and F8 into position. Verify that the
fuselage tail-section is square to the building board and run thin CA along all inside surfaces. Work slowly and
make strong joints.

© 2004 Stevens AeroModel. Page 14 of 33
12. Install assembled formers F6 and F7 within fuselage assembly.
13. Key part FT2 to fuselage sides spanning F7 and F8. Fit part FT3 into position aligning with the exposed tab of
F8. Run thin CA along inside surfaces.
14. Key FT4 into position secure with thin CA.
15. Key F14 and F15 turtle deck spine into position. Part F15 spans FT4, F7, F6, and F14. Secure parts with thin
CA.

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16. Key parts F16 on either side of F15. The parts laminate to F15 and key into the provided tabs on FT4.
17. Install pre-cut 1/16” stringer stock spanning F6, F7, and F14 – Stringers are slightly over-length – remove the
excess and sand flush with former F14.
18. Key parts F11 and F13 to fuselage top decking. Note orientation of F13 instrument panel and decide if you
want it hidden or exposed. Key center spine F12 spanning F11 and F13. Fill in remainder of slots with pre-cut
stringer stock. Once satisfied with fit, glue the assembly together by running thin CA along all inside surfaces.
(Note the servo tray included with the beta kit). Stringers are slightly oversized sand excess stringer length
flush with F11 and F13.

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19. Key F1 to fuselage spanning fuselage sides and FB1. The fit here may be particularly tight work the parts
together carefully some light sanding of the tabs or notches may be required. Key parts F9 and F10 to
fuselage top decking. Note: F10 slopes towards the front of the fuselage. Secure parts with thin CA.
20. Locate the motor mount parts on the 1/16” ply parts sheet. Note that there are two motor mount faceplates
included on the 1/16” cut ply sheet: MM1 is designed to accommodate the Hacker B20-15L while MM1a was
designed to accommodate the AXI 2808-20. Assemble the motor mount as indicated below – Tack together
using thin CA glue. Key the completed motor mount assembly to the firewall. Note that the tabs on the motor
mount and notches in the firewall may require light sanding. Only take enough material to facilitate the fit. We
want a good snug fit to the fuselage firewall. Once satisfied with the glue the motor mount in-place and flow
thin CA liberally into all motor mount joints.
21.
VERY IMPORTANT! Special Instructions for the AXI 2808-X Series motors.
 Locate the 1/32” ply doubler MM1b using 5-minute epoxy or wood glue laminate this doubler to the
face of MM1a.
 Spread a thin epoxy fillet along the inside joints of the motor mount MM1a/b to side plate joint.
(THICK CA glue makes for a brittle joint do not use thick CA on the motor mount as a glue fillet.) The
epoxy fillet will ensure that the mount weathers the normal in-flight vibrations and stresses that the out
runner motor will place on the mount.
 NEVER run up an out of balance prop or spinner – at any RPM! NEVER run a prop that is out of
track. NEVER run a prop adapter that is damaged or bent. (Ignoring any of these suggestions may
lead to vibration that may damage the airframe, motor mount, and your electronics)
 Disable your prop brake on the ESC (out runner motors and prop brakes are not a good
combination)

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22. Locate parts H1, H2, H3, H4, and H5. Note: position F5 so the slope tapers to the front of the hatch. Test
assemble battery access hatch as indicated in reference photo. Lay flat on building board and secure with thin
CA.
23. Fill in hatch with stringers. Note the stringers slope towards the front of the hatch. Lay hatch flat on building
surface and install / secure stringers with thin CA then sand the excess length flush with the hatch formers H2
and H4. Test fit hatch to fuselage assembly and sand as required – you want to avoid either a sloppy or
excessively snug fit.
24. Cut two lengths of 1/32” ID plastic tubing 1.75” long and install in lower holes provided along bottom of former
F6 – this tubing should install flush with the former F6 and run directly aft to the slots in the bottom of FB3. Cut
two more lengths of 1/32” ID plastic tubing .5” long and install centered in the two upper holes in former F6.
Refer to the illustration on the full size plan sheet for more details.
AA
BB
0.1250
1.0000
Upper Guide Tube
(Leftor Right only)
F5
F14
F6 F7
Lower Guide Tube
(Left and Right)
ElevatorPull/PullCable
F6
S
erv
o
S
erv
o
FB3
ElevatorPull/PullCable
RudderPull/PullCable
RudderPull/PullCable
Lower Pull/Pull Exit
(Bottomof Fuselage)
(Opt ional) E xternal -Rudde r Servo
Mount L ocatio n - Pull/P ull to rudde r
runs ex ternal t o fuse. Assists with
balace f or certain mo tor/battery
combinations.
FB3
F16
F13
F12
F17
F5
F7
Canopy
FileNotchesin
F14 t o fit angle
of str ingers.
Fuselage Underside
25. Final sand the fuselage – Tips: Sand the Hatch and fuselage components together. Scallop former F6 in-
between turtle deck stringers to eliminate the covering from sagging across this former when covered. Scallop
the hatch former H3 to eliminate the covering from sagging across this former when covered. Sand F1 flush
with former FB1 fill and sand the intersection of FB1 and FB2. Test fit the styrene cowl and sand fuselage nose
to shape accordingly. Be sure to sand a slight bevel in the aft end of the fuselage at F8 extending aft to make
for a gentle transition to the Rudder surface and prevent control horn binding.

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Wing
Basic assembly methodology. When assembled on a flat work surface, this wing will jig together and self align to create
one of the straightest wings you have ever built. A each part relies on the successive component to achieve this; we
suggest that you rely on friction and the interlocking construction to hold the wing together throughout the building process
hold off on the CA glue until you are directed to use it– this allows the individual components to shift and align as each
part is added – once all the pieces are in-place the assembly will be pulled together straight and true.
1. Begin wing construction by locating and joining together, with thin CA, parts S1A and S1B to create the main
spar.
2. Locate and CA together parts S3A, S3B, and S3C to create S3 upper spar cap strip – do the same for S2A,
S2B and S2C to create lower spar cap strip S2.
3. Locate ribs R1 (3/32”) and R2 (1/16”) and CA the cross bracing in place in the notches provided just aft of the
ribs mid section. The cross braces are located within the respective rib lightening hole on the cut wood sheets.
4. At this point it is a very good idea to lightly sand both sides of the wing ribs and spar. It is also a good time to
consider lightly sanding the burn marks from the edges of the ribs – be very gentle as the assembly is quite
delicate at this point.

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5. Next key ribs R1-R6 into main spar. Go easy and do not force the fit – the fit should be snug but due to wood
variances it may be too tight – if this is the case carefully remove the rib and lightly sand the intersecting
surfaces – avoid forcing the fit as it tends to distort the shape of the wing.
6. Locate leading edge jig LE3 and key to ribs R1 and R6. Make sure that LE3 is properly nested into the notches
in R1 and R6 then tack glue LE3 to R1 and R6 leaving the rest of the structure un-glued. Note: To assist wit
the fit of LE1 to the ribs it often helps to lightly bevel the interlocking notches on LE3 using a very fine grit sand
paper.
7. Nest the wing center brace part W1 in-between ribs R1. Flip the wing over on a flat surface (to rest on the riser
jigs built into the ribs) and tack glue W1 into position.

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8. Next, key part TE1 into grove in R2 and nest tabs into R1. Proceed to nest ribs R3-R6 into TE1. Now flip the
wing over on a flat surface (to rest on the riser jigs built into the ribs) and tack glue TE1 at R1 and R6 leaving
the rest of the ribs un-glued.
9. Install the servo pockets, with the wing assembly still very flexible, now is a great time to assemble the servo
pockets and install in the wing. For now lets rely on the friction fit of the servo pocket to the wing spar / rib and
not glue these assemblies together until the spar cap strips are glued in-place. The servo pockets can be tricky
to work into position and it is easy to make two rights or lefts… For this reason inspect the fit of the parts to
each other and test fit the parts individually to the wing.
Assemble the servo pockets as illustrated below. For this step you will need parts W6, W7, and the 1/16” ply
parts W8. Once the servo pockets have been dry fit together, test the fit to the wing spar and rib R3. Work the
assembly into position carefully as the rib and spar are in a delicate state.
10. Locate parts W4 (balsa) and W5 (ply). Using the provided 1/8” hardwood dowels as a centering tool and insert
through the 1/8” holes in the wing center section trailing edge components. Tack glue parts W4 and W5 (well
away from the 1/8” dowels). Remove the centering dowels and wick thin CA between surfaces to laminate the
trailing edge components together.

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11. With the wing right-side-up (jig risers up) key the wing trailing edge center section to ribs R1 and R2. Tack glue
the center trailing edge component to R1 and R2 where these parts intersect.
12. Assemble the landing gear block: Locate parts LG1 – LG6 and friction fit together as indicated in the photo
below.
13. Key the center landing gear block to the wing between ribs R1 and the main spar. Align flush with R1 and the
main spar. Tack glue into position.

© 2004 Stevens AeroModel. Page 22 of 33
14. Key part LE1 to the wing center section and tack glue into position.
15. Nest parts LE2 (two each) in place over LE1 – tack glue into position. Now wick thin CA into all joints between
the landing gear block assembly and the wing center section.
16. Key the assemble spar cap strips S2 and S3 to the main spar. The cap strips are notched to capture and
locate the ribs. Rock the cap strip assembly into position do not be too heavy handed as you work out to the
tips – as you reach the outer rib bays, make sure to adequately support the spar as you work the strip into
position. Next lay the entire wing assembly over your flat building surface inverted. Add some light weights to
hold the wing flat against the building board. Working slowly in between ribs gently press the assembly
against the flat surface and wick CA into the upper (in this case bottom as the wing is inverted) cap strip to spar
joints. Allow the CA to cure then remove the weights from the wing, flip over, and secure the lower spar cap to
the spar – this will require rocking the wing to one side at a time as the bottom of the wing has a bit of taper built
into it. Flip the wing back over – weigh it down – and run thin CA along the spar to rib joints.

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17. Laminate part S1C (spar doubler) to spar midsection between ribs R1.
18. Key LE4 Cap strip to leading edge jig LE3. Note: It may help to slightly bevel the tabs on LE3 before fitting LE4
– also LE4 is designed to fit in one direction – pay close attention to the notching.
19. Stand wing up along its leading edge supported over your flat work surface. Hold LE3 firmly against LE 4 and
wick thin CA along joints between LE3 and LE4 surfaces.

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20. Install trailing edge cap stripping TE2 and tack glue at R1 and R6. Invert and weight the wing down on your flat
building surface – wick thin CA into all trailing edge joints.
21. Slip part W3 center brace in between ribs R1 aligned with the centerline of parts TE1.
22. Again, invert and weight the over your flat building surface. Fit the pre-cut turbulator stock to the wing and
secure with thin CA. If for some reason your wing does not come out straight and true – you may simply leave
the wing inverted on your flat work surface, weighted down, mist liberally with glass cleaner solution, and allow
to completely dry.