Swisher Z-MAX ZT2560 Operating instructions

REPAIR MANUAL
ZT2560
Swisher Mower Co
Warrensburg, MO

TABLE OF CONTENTS
1. If engine won’t crank
2. If engine won’t crank – continued
3. If engine cranks but won’t start
If engine stalls when PTO is engaged
4. If PTO clutch will not engage
Hour meter not operating
5. Wire identification at switches
6. Wire identification at switches – continued
7. Drive control adjustment
8. Drive control adjustment – continued
Drive control overview
9. Electrical components
10. Parking brake and neutral switch operation
11. Deck lifting system
12. Deck belt replacement
13. Repairing or replacing blade driver
14. Replacement Parts – Quick reference

IF ENGINE WON’T CRANK
ALWAYS CHECK FUSE FIRST
TEST #1
Using a remote starter switch or suitable device, make a
connection between the large terminals on the solenoid.
If engine does not crank!!!
•Battery may be weak or dead
•Starter may be bad
•Battery cables may have bad connections
•Do not go to Test #2 until this test gives results
TEST #2
If engine did crank in test #1, disconnect green wire at
spade connector and apply positive voltage from the
battery to the primary wire on the solenoid. Make sure
the one with the eyelet is grounded. If engine doesn’t
crank now, replace the solenoid.Remember, all other
tests are useless unless these two tests make the
engine turn over.
TEST #3
If engine did crank in the first part of test #2, reconnect
green wire to solenoid. Make sure the drive controls are
out in neutral position. Using a jumper wire attached to
the positive terminal of the battery, apply 12 volts to
the red wire on terminal B of the ignition switch. Try to
crank, using the ignition switch. If engine cranks, the
fuse or the fuse holder, or related wiring is defective
somewhere back to the solenoid.
TEST #4
If engine did not crank in test #3, make sure the drive
controls are in neutral position. This time move the
jumper wire attached to the positive terminal of the
battery, to the green wire on S terminal of the ignition
switch. If all components in the circuit are working, the
engine should crank. If it doesn’t, move on to next test.
1

A neutral switch is located on the lower end of both
drive control handles and is activated when the handles
are outward in the neutral position. Check that the
plunger buttons on both switches are depressed at least
3/8”. Meter should go to zero when checking continuity
across switch terminals with plungers depressed.
With PTO switch in
the off position, meter
should go to zero
when checking
continuity across these
two terminals.
If any of the switches in this circuit tested bad, install a new
one and perform Test #4 again. If all switches are good, a
connecting wire must be at fault. Don’t move past Test #4
until it assures a good circuit. When you do get good results,
hook all wires back to original position and try the ignition
switch again. If no results, you will need to replace the
ignition switch.
2

ENGINE CRANKS BUT WON’T START
Checks for electrical problems
•While turning ignition switch to its first position, listen for the fuel solenoid on the
carburetor to click. It must click to supply fuel to the carburetor.
•Try a new spark plug.
•Check for spark at plug when it is removed and the threaded end is grounded.
•Unplug the six-position socket that connects engine wiring to mower wiring harness.
Engine will still crank. If plug doesn’t have a spark now, ignition module is probably
defective.
Checks for mechanical problems
•Make sure the tank gas valve is turned on.
•Remove air filter element to check for signs of gas in the throat of the carburetor.
•If no gas, check to see if choke is working properly.
•If all above checks show positive, carburetor must have an internal problem. Remove and
clean the carburetor.
ENGINE STALLS WHEN PTO IS ENGAGED
The seat safety switch plug not being properly inserted, or a
defective plug can cause this problem. If the plug is not
inserted or is defective, the spark plug is grounded out when
the PTO is engage.
To check, remove plug from the PTO switch. Using an
ohmmeter, place one probe on the terminal connected to the
black wire going to the seat safety switch plug. Place the
other probe on a good chassis ground. The meter should be
on zero with no weight on the seat. Pulling the seat down
should open the circuit.
3

IF PTO CLUTCH WILL NOT ENGAGE
HOUR METER NOT OPERATING
Hour meter has a positive and a
negative post. Gray wire should go on
the positive. Power is supplied from the
ignition switch.
Green wire from hour meter is
grounded by the oil pressure switch,
therefore only has a ground when the
engine is running.
Apply a negative ground to this terminal
Apply 12 volts to this terminal. Clutch should activate,
if it doesn’t, clutch is defective.
If clutch checks OK, use a voltmeter to measure if
there is 12 volts at the brown wire’s terminal. First
turn ignition switch to the ON position but don’t start
the engine. Now engage the PTO switch. For the first
test put the negative probe on a good ground, not on
the white wire’s terminal in the plug. If no voltage is
measured, move on to next test.
If all checked good in the two previous tests, the
problem may now be a poor ground on the white wire
in the clutch plug. Check by testing for continuity to
ground or check for voltage between the two terminals
With the PTO switch ON there should be continuity
between these two connectors, if not, replace switch. If
switch tested good, check wires and connectors back
to ignition switch and back to clutch plug.
4

WIRE IDENTIFICATION AT SWITCHES
3623 IGNITION SWITCH
STARTER SOLENOID
Heavy red cable
goes to the starter.
Red wire goes to
ignition switch.
Green wire goes to
neutral switches
and on to the
ignition switch.
Green wire with
orange stripe goes
to the ground.
Red wire goes
to engine plug.
Heavy red cable
goes to the
positive post of the
battery.
PTO SWITCH PLUG
One white wire goes to clutch
and other one goes to ground.
Red wire goes to fuse and
on to battery positive at
the solenoid terminal.
Green wire goes to PTO switchOne gray wire goes to the
PTO switch and the other
goes to the hour meter
One black wire goes
to PTO switch and
the other goes to the
engine plug
Black wire goes to the seat
switch.
Green wire goes to the
neutral switches.
Brown wire goes to the
clutch.
Gray wire goes to the
ignition switch.
Green wire goes to the
ignition switch.
Black wire goes to the
ignition switch.
5

WIRING HARNESS TO ENGINE PLUG CONNECTION
Gray wire goes to carburetor fuel solenoid
Green wire goes to oil pressure switch
Black wire goes to engine ignition module
Red wire goes to engine charging system
Green wire goes to hour meter
Red wire goes to terminal on solenoid
with the positive battery cable.
Black wire goes to the ignition switch.
Gray wire goes to hour meter
WIRING HARNESS PLUG TO ENGINE
Gray wire goes to hour meter
Green wire goes to hour meter
Red wire goes to
terminal on solenoid
with the positive
battery cable.
Black wire goes to the
ignition switch.
6

BATTERY CHARGING SYSTEM
To test alternator before it goes to the
regulator, unplug the yellow connector
and measure the AC voltage across the
the two gray wires inside this
connector.There should be at least 20
volts AC.
CARBURETOR FUEL SOLENOID
Red wire goes to the engine plug and
then on to the positive terminal of the
solenoid to keep the battery charged.
Easiest way to check if the charging is
taking place is to measure the DC
voltage of the battery before you start the
engine. Then start the engine. Measure
the voltage at the battery with the engine
running. The voltage should be at least
one volt higher right after the engine is
started. This voltage will drop a little as
the battery gets recharged.
Voltage
Regulator
Black wire goes to engine ground.
Gray wire goes to the engine plug,
then on to the ignition switch where it
receives power to activate the fuel shut
off valve.
Fuel shut off solenoid is a Briggs part
and is available through them only.
7

DRIVE CONTROL ADJUSTMENTS
LEFT SIDE SHOWN
Control plate shown
in neutral position
Hydro linkage
Start your adjustments by putting the
drive control arms in the neutral position.
Remove the linkage from the control
plate at the Eaton hydro by removing the
cotter pin and washer on the under side.
By moving the control plate forward and
backwards by hand you can easily find
the neutral position on the hydro.
With the drive control handles in the
neutral position, this linkage pivot should
be close to straight up and down.
With control plate on hydro still in the
neutral position, try to put hydro linkage
back into the hole on the plate. If it won’t
go in without forcing one way or the
other, adjust threads here to make an
easy hookup.
With the control linkage once again
removed, move the control plate forward
as far as it will go.
Move the control handle forward until
this linkage contacts the adjusting bolt in
front of it.Again try to put the control
linkage in to the control plate. Do not
adjust the control linkage to make this
happen, adjust the bolt in front instead.
This adjusting bolt will now be used to
set both drive wheels to pull equally.
With the control handles fully forward,
observe which side is turning the fastest.
Extend the bolt rear ward to slow the
travel of that side until they are pulling
the same on both sides.
8