Top Flite P-40 Warhawk User manual

READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE STARTING CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.
Entire Contents © 2010 Hobbico®, Inc. TOPA0705 Mnl 1.3
WARRANTY
Top Flite®Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and
workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use
or modification. In no case shall Top Flite’s liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit.
Further, Top Flite reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.
In that Top Flite has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be
assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled
product. By the act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is
advised to return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.
To make a warranty claim send the
defective part or item to Hobby
Services at this address:
Include a letter stating your name, return shipping address, as much contact information as possible (daytime
telephone number, fax number, e-mail address), a detailed description of the problem and a photocopy of the
purchase receipt. Upon receipt of the package the problem will be evaluated as quickly as possible.
Hobby Services
3002 N. Apollo Dr. Suite 1
Champaign IL 61822 USA
SPECIFICATIONS
Wingspan :86 in [2185mm]
Wing Area: 1262 sq in [81.4 dm2]
Weight: 23– 24 lb
[10430– 10880 g]
Wing
Loading:
42– 44 oz/sq ft
[128–134 g/dm2]
Length: 72 in
[1830mm]
Radio: 5-7 channel minimum
Engine: 2.6–3.3 cu in
[43–55cc] two-stroke
gasoline engine
[e-mail]
Top Flite Models Champaign, IL
Ph: [phone], Ext. 5
Fax: [phone]

2
INTRODUCTION
Top Flite is very proud to bring you the P-40 Warhawk
ARF. The Curtiss P-40 Warhawk became one of the
most important fighters of World War II, and was flown
in every combat theatre. This legendary fighter is best
known for the Flying Tiger markings of the American
Fighter Group (AVG). This is a great flying model that
you will enjoy and will turn heads at the flying field. We
have made a realistic airplane that has no bad flight
characteristics.We believe you will be thrilled with the
final product.
For the latest technical updates or manual corrections
to the Giant Scale P-40 ARF visit the Top Flite web site
at www.top-flite.com. Open the “Airplanes” link, then
select the Giant Scale P-40 ARF. If there is new technical
information or changes to this model a “tech notice” box
will appear in the upper left corner of the page.
ACADEMY OF MODEL AERONAUTICS
If you are not already a member of the AMA, please
join! The AMA is the governing body of model aviation
and membership provides liability insurance coverage,
protects modelers’ rights and interests and is required
to fly at most R/C sites.
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302-9252
Ph. [phone] Or via the Internet at:
Fax [phone] http://www.modelaircraft.org
IMPORTANT!!! Two of the most important things you
can do to preserve the radio controlled aircraft hobby
are to avoid flying near full-scale aircraft and avoid
flying near or over groups of people.
IMAA
The Top Flite Giant Scale P-40 ARF is an excellent
sport-scale model and is eligible to fly in IMAA events.
The IMAA (International Miniature Aircraft Association)
is an organization that promotes non-competitive flying
of giant-scale models. If you plan to attend an IMAA
INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Academy Of Model Aeronautics. . . . . . . . . . . . 2
IMAA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Scale Competition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
DECISIONSYOU MUST MAKE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Radio Equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Engine Recommendations. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
OPTIONAL ROBART RETRACTABLE
LANDING GEAR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Required Hardware & Accessories . . . . . . . . . 4
Optional Supplies & Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
COMMON ABBREVIATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
KIT INSPECTION. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
KIT CONTENTS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS. . . . . . . . . . 6
PREPARATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
ASSEMBLETHEWING. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
INSTALLTHE FIXED WIRE LANDING GEAR . . . 9
INSTALLTHE RETRACTABLE
LANDING GEAR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
MOUNTTHEWING NACELLES . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
JOINTHEWING HALVES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
ASSEMBLETHE FUSELAGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Install The Stabilizer. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Install The Tail Gear Assembly. . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Mount The Fixed Tail Gear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Mount The Retractable Tail Gear . . . . . . . . . . 18
Install The Elevator & Rudder Servos . . . . . . 20
INSTALLTHE ENGINE, MUFFLER, RADIO
AND REMAINING SERVOS . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
INSTALLTHE COWL. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
INSTALLTHE COCKPIT, PILOT
AND CANOPY. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
APPLYTHE DECALS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
GETTHE MODEL READYTO FLY . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Check The Control Directions . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Set The Control Throws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Check the Retract Operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
Balance The Model (C.G.) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
Balance The Model Laterally . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
PREFLIGHT. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Identify Your Model. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Charge The Batteries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Balance Propellers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Ground Check And Range Check . . . . . . . . . 36
ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS . . . . . . . . . . . 36
AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpts). . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
General . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
Radio Control . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
CHECK LIST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
FLYING. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
Fuel Mixture Adjustments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
Takeoff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
Flight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
Landing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
TABLE OF CONTENTS

3
event, obtain a copy of the IMAA Safety Code by
contacting the IMAA at the address or telephone
number below, or by logging onto their web site at:
www.fly-imaa.org/imaa/sanction.html.
IMAA
205 S. Hilldale Road
Salina, KS 67401
[phone]
SCALE COMPETITION
Though the Top Flite P-40 is an ARF and may not have
the same level of detail as an “all-out” scratch-built
competition model, it is a scale model nonetheless
and is therefore eligible to compete in the Fun Scale
class in AMA competition (we receive many favorable
reports of Top Flite ARFs in scale competition!). In Fun
Scale, the “builder of the model” rule does not apply.To
receive the five points for scale documentation, the only
proof required that a full size aircraft of this type in this
paint/markings scheme did exist is a single sheet such
as a kit box cover from a plastic model, a photo, or a
profile painting, etc. If the photo is in black and white
other written documentation of color must be provided.
Contact the AMA for a rule book with full details.
If you would like photos of the full-size P-40 for scale
documentation, or if you would like to study the
photos to add more scale details, photo packs are
available from:
Bob’s Aircraft Documentation
3114 Yukon Ave Ph: [phone]
Costa Mesa, CA 92626 Fax: [phone]
e-mail: www.bobsairdoc.com
PROTECTYOUR MODEL,
YOURSELF & OTHERS… FOLLOW
THESE IMPORTANT SAFETY
PRECAUTIONS
1.Your P-40 should not be considered a toy, but rather a
sophisticated, working model that functions very much
like a full-size airplane. Because of its performance
capabilities, the P-40, if not assembled and operated
correctly, could possibly cause injury to yourself or
spectators and damage to property.
2. You must assemble the model according to the
instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as
doing so may result in an unsafe or unflyable model.
In a few cases the instructions may differ slightly from
the photos. In those instances the written instructions
should be considered as correct.
3.You must take time to build straight,true and strong.
4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in
good condition, a correctly sized engine, and other
components as specified in this instruction manual.
All components must be correctly installed so that the
model operates correctly on the ground and in the air.
You must check the operation of the model and all
components before every flight.
5. If you are not an experienced pilot or have not flown
this type of model before, we recommend that you get
the assistance of an experienced pilot in your R/C club
for your first flights. If you’re not a member of a club, your
local hobby shop has information about clubs in your
area whose membership includes experienced pilots.
6. While this kit has been flight tested to exceed normal
use, if the plane will be used for extremely high stress
flying, such as racing, or if an engine larger than one
in the recommended range is used, the modeler is
responsible for taking steps to reinforce the high stress
points and/or substituting hardware more suitable for
the increased stress.
7. WARNING:The cowl, belly pan and other misc parts
included in this kit are made of fiberglass, the fibers
of which may cause eye, skin and respiratory tract
irritation. Never blow into a part to remove fiberglass
dust, as the dust will blow back into your eyes. Always
wear safety goggles, a particle mask and rubber gloves
when grinding, drilling and sanding fiberglass parts.
Vacuum the parts and the work area thoroughly after
working with fiberglass parts.
We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a top
quality, thoroughly tested kit and instructions, but
ultimately the quality and flyability of your finished
model depends on how you build it; therefore, we
cannot in any way guarantee the performance of
your completed model, and no representations are
expressed or implied as to the performance or safety
of your completed model.
Remember: Take your time and follow the
instructions to end up with a well-built model
that is straight and true.
DECISIONSYOU MUST MAKE
This is a partial list of items required to finish the
P-40 that may require planning or decision making
before starting to build. Order numbers are provided
in parentheses.
RADIO EQUIPMENT
The P-40 can be flown with a minimum of a five
channel radio if you are using the fixed landing gear
and “Y” harnesses on the servos. If you install the
retractable landing gear you will need a minimum of a
six channel radio with a “Y” harness on the servos. For
our installation we used a twelve channel radio. One
channel each was used for the throttle, choke, right
elevator, left elevator, rudder, right aileron, left aileron,
right flap, left flap and retracts.
Recommended servos: All control surfaces require
the use of a high quality servo of at least 85 oz.-in. of
torque. A servo of 40 oz.-in. of torque can be used for
the throttle, choke and air control valve.
❍Control surfaces – Futaba®9402 (FUTM0102)
❍Throttle, choke and air valve Futaba 3003
(FUTM0031)
❍2 - 24" [310mm] Pro™Series Heavy Duty Servo
Extensions (HCAM2721) for the ailerons.
❍5 - 12" [305mm] Pro Series Heavy Duty Servo
Extensions (HCAM2711); two for the flaps, two
for the elevator halves and one for the rudder.

4
Depending on your choice of receiver and the number
of channels you will be using you may have to use
“Y” harnesses on the aileron, flaps and elevator.
(FUTM4130)
❍1500 mAh NiCad receiver battery or equivalent
(FUTM1285).
❍2 - Heavy duty switch harness (FUTM4385).
❍2 - Ernst Charge Receptacle (ERNM3001).
❍2 - 1" Servo arms
❍1 - 2" Servo arm
(There are a number of options for servo arms. We
used the Du-Bro Super Strength Arms. (DUBM6670)
This package includes eight servo arms, including the
two needed for this model).
ENGINE RECOMMENDATIONS
The recommended engine size range for the P-40 is
43cc to 55cc [2.6 - 3.3 cu in] two-stroke gasoline engine.
We used the DLE™55 engine for our model. We have
provided instructions and hardware for the Fuji-Imvac
™
43 EI (FJIG134) and the DLE 55 (DLEG0055). Other
engines can also be used but you may need to make
modifications for mounting those engines.
OPTIONAL ROBART
RETRACTABLE LANDING GEAR
Robart makes a very realistic, high quality, scale landing
gear for the P-40. This landing gear rotates just the
same as the full scale airplane providing a very realistic
operation.This is a tremendous addition to the airplane.
If you choose to use them you will need the following.
❍100 Degree retract large scale (ROBQ1665)
❍157VR Large Air Control Kit (ROBQ2305)
❍169 Pressure Tubing 10' Red/Purple
(ROBQ2369)
❍#160LWC LH Offset Pneumatic Tail Wheel
(ROBQ2225)
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED
REQUIRED HARDWARE & ACCESSORIES
This is the list of hardware and accessories required
to finish the P-40. Order numbers are provided in
parentheses.
❍R/C foam rubber (1/4" [6mm] - HCAQ1000, or
1/2" [13mm] - HCAQ1050)
❍3' [900mm] gasoline fuel tubing (GPMQ4135)
❍1 oz. [30g] Thin Pro™CA (GPMR6002)
❍1 oz. [30g] Medium Pro CA+ (GPMR6008)
❍Pro 30-minute epoxy (GPMR6047)
❍Pro 6-minute epoxy (GPMR6045)
❍Silver solder w/flux (STAR2000)
❍Hobbico®Soldering Iron 60 Watt (HCAR0776)
❍#1 Hobby knife (HCAR0105)
❍#11 blades (5-pack, HCAR0211)
❍R/C-56 canopy glue (JOZR5007)
❍Epoxy brushes (6, GPMR8060)
❍Mixing sticks (50, GPMR8055)
❍Mixing cups (GPMR8056)
❍Masking tape (TOPR8018)
❍Threadlocker thread locking cement
(GPMR6060)
❍Denatured alcohol (for epoxy clean up)
❍Panel Line Pen (TOPQ2510)
❍Rotary tool such as Dremel®
❍Rotary tool reinforced cut-off wheel
(GPMR8200)
❍Drill bits: 1/16" [1.6mm], 1/8" [3.2mm], 5/64"
[2mm], 3/32" [2.4mm], 7/64" [2.8mm}, 3/16"
[4.8mm], 5/16" [8mm], 1/4" [6.4mm].
❍Du-Bro Fuel Line Barb 1/8" (DUBQ0670)
OPTIONAL SUPPLIES &TOOLS
Here is a list of optional tools mentioned in the manual
that will help you build the P-40.
❍21st Century®sealing iron (COVR2700)
❍21st Century®iron cover (COVR2702)
❍2 oz. [57g] spray CA activator (GPMR6035)
❍4 oz. [113g] aerosol CA activator (GPMR634)
❍Epoxy brushes (6, GPMR8060)
❍Mixing sticks (50, GPMR8055)
❍Mixing cups (GPMR8056)
❍Denatured alcohol (for epoxy clean up)
❍Panel Line Pen (TOPQ2510)
❍Rotary tool such as Dremel®
❍Rotary tool reinforced cut-off wheel
(GPMR8200)
IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES
●There are three types of screws used in this kit:
Sheet Metal Screws are designated by a number
and a length. For example #6 ×3/4" [19mm].
This is a number six screw
that is 3/4" [19mm] long.
Machine Screws are designated by a number,
threads per inch, and a length. For example
4-40 ×3/4" [19mm].
This is a number four screw
that is 3/4" [19mm] long with
forty threads per inch.
Socket Head Cap Screws (SHCS) are designated
by a number, threads per inch, and a length. For
example 4-40 × 3/4" [19mm].
This is a 4-40 SHCS that is
3/4" [19mm] long with forty
threads per inch
●When you see the term test fit in the instructions,
it means that you should first position the part on
the assembly without using any glue, then slightly
modify or custom fit the part as necessary for the
best fit.
●Whenever the term glue is written you should rely
upon your experience to decide what type of glue
to use. When a specific type of adhesive works
best for that step, the instructions will make a
recommendation.
●Whenever just epoxy is specified you may use
either 30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy or 6-minute
epoxy. When 30-minute epoxy is specified it is
highly recommended that you use only 30-minute
(or 45-minute) epoxy, because you will need the
working time and/or the additional strength.

5
●Photos and sketches are placed before the step
they refer to. Frequently you can study photos in
following steps to get another view of the same parts.
●The Giant Scale P-40 ARF is factory-covered with
Top Flite®MonoKote film. Should repairs ever be
required, MonoKote can be patched with additional
MonoKote purchased separately. MonoKote is
packaged in six-foot rolls, but some hobby shops
also sell it by the foot. If only a small piece of
MonoKote is needed for a minor patch, perhaps a
fellow modeler would give you some. MonoKote is
applied with a model airplane covering iron, but in
an emergency a regular iron could be used. A roll of
MonoKote includes full instructions for application.
Following are the colors used on this model and
order numbers for six foot rolls.
Flat Olive Drab TOPQ0510 Flat Dove Gray TOPQ0511
Flat Tan TOPQ0516 Missile Red TOPQ0201
Flat Black TOPQ0508
●The stabilizer and wing incidences and engine
thrust angles have been factory-built into this model.
However, some technically-minded modelers may
wish to check these measurements anyway. To
view this information visit the web site at www.
top-flite.com and click on “Technical Data.” Due
to manufacturing tolerances which will have little
or no effect on the way your model will fly, please
expect slight deviations between your model and
the published values.
COMMON ABBREVIATIONS
Stab = Horizontal Stabilizer
Fin = Vertical Stabilizer
LE = Leading Edge
TE = Trailing Edge
" = Inches
mm = Millimeters
SHCS = Socket Head Cap Screw
mAh = Milliamp Hours (refers to the
usable capacity of a battery)
To convert inches to millimeters, multiply inches
by 25.4 (25.4mm = 1")
Before starting to build, take an inventory of this kit
to make sure it is complete, and inspect the parts to
make sure they are of acceptable quality. If any parts
are missing or are not of acceptable quality, or if you
need assistance with assembly, contact Product
Support. When reporting defective or missing parts,
use the part names exactly as they are written in the
Kit Contents list.
Top Flite Product Support
3002 N Apollo Drive, Suite 1
Champaign, IL 61822
Ph: [phone], ext. 5
Fax: [phone]
E-mail: airsupport@top-flite.com
KIT INSPECTION
KIT CONTENTS
1. Right Wing w/ Aileron & Flap
2. Left Wing w/ Aileron & Flap
3. Fuselage
4. Cowl
5. Canopy
6. Right Stabilizer & Elevator
7. Left Stabilizer & Elevator
8. Rudder
9. Wheel Covers
10. Wheels
11. Landing Gear Blocks
12. Landing Gear Wire
13. Wheel Nacelles
14. Machine Gun Tubes
15. Landing Gear Mount
16. Spinner
17. Cowl Extension
18. Fuel Tank
19. Leading Edge Dowel
20. Belly Pan
21. Rear Belly Pan
22. Tail Wheel Cover
23. Air Tank Support
24. Servo/Receiver Tray
25. Ignition/Battery Tray
26. Stab Tubes (2)
27. Tail Wheel
28. Tail Wheel Wire
29. Tail Wheel Bracket
30. Wing Joiner
31. Cockpit Components
1
17
2
18
3
4
20
5
21
6
22
7
8
24
25
10
10
27
12
12
28
13
13
29
30
15
15
31
16
9
9
11
11
14
14
19
23
26

6
ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS
Replacement parts for the Top Flite Giant Scale P-40
ARF are available using the order numbers in the
Replacement Parts List that follows.The fastest, most
economical service can be provided by your hobby
dealer or mail-order company.
To locate a hobby dealer, visit the Top Flite web site at
www.top-flite.com. Select “Where to Buy” in the menu
across the top of the page and follow the instructions
provided to locate a U.S., Canadian or International dealer.
Parts may also be ordered directly from Hobby Services
by calling [phone], or via facsimile at (217) 398-
7721, but full retail prices and shipping and handling
charges will apply. Illinois and Nevada residents will also
be charged sales tax. If ordering via fax, include a Visa
®
or MasterCard®number and expiration date for payment.
Mail parts orders Hobby Services
and payments by 3002 N Apollo Drive, Suite 1
personal check to: Champaign IL 61822
Be certain to specify the order number exactly as listed
in the Replacement Parts List. Payment by credit card
or personal check only; no C.O.D.
If additional assistance is required for any reason
contact Product Support
by e-mail at or by telephone at
productsupport@top-flite.com [phone]
Landing Gear Nacelle SetTOPA1802
Order No. Description
REPLACEMENT PARTS LIST
FuselageTOPA1795
WingTOPA1796
Stab and ElevatorsTOPA1797
RudderTOPA1798
CowlTOPA1799
CanopyTOPA1800
Fixed Landing Gear WiresTOPA1801
Tail Wheel BracketTOPA1803
SpinnerTOPA1804
DecalsTOPA1805
Cockpit KitTOPA1806
Belly Pan and Aft FairingTOPA1807
Tail Gear CoverTOPA1808
PREPARATIONS
❏1. If you have not done so already, remove the major
parts of the kit from the box and inspect for damage.
If any parts are damaged or missing, contact Product
Support at the address or telephone number listed in
the “Kit Inspection” section on page 5.
❏2. Use a covering iron with a covering sock on high
heat to tighten the covering if necessary. Do this for
all of the components of the model. Apply pressure
over sheeted areas to thoroughly bond the covering
to the wood.
ASSEMBLETHEWING
Note: Throughout this instruction manual you will be
instructed to use screws to secure different parts. In
all cases, whenever a screw is threaded into wood
sheeting or wood blocks we recommend that you install
the screw and then remove it.Apply a drop of thin CA
glue into the hole to harden the threads.After the glue
has hardened, re-install the screw.Following this step
will insure that you have a solid thread for you screws.
Begin with your right wing panel first so your assembly
matches the photos in the manual.
❏❏1. Install a 24" [610mm] servo extension to your
aileron servo. Secure it with heat shrink tubing, tape
or other method for securing them together.
❏ ❏
2. Install a 12" [305] servo extension to your flap
servo. Secure it with heat shrink tubing, tape or other
method for securing them together.
❏❏3. Remove the tape holding the servo covers
to the bottom of the wing. Locate two 5/16" × 1/2" ×
3/4" [8mm × 13mm × 19mm] hardwood blocks. The
markings on the back of the cover are correct for

7
Futaba servos. Place your particular brand of servo on
the cover making sure they fit between the locations
for the blocks. Adjust the positioning of the blocks for
your brand of servo.
❏❏4. Glue the blocks to the servo cover. Once the
glue has cured, drill a 1/16" [1.6mm] hole through the
cover and into the servo mounting blocks. Secure the
block to the cover with a #2 × 3/8" [#2 × 9.5mm] wood
screw. Do this for both of the servo covers.
❏❏5. Inside the aileron and flap servo compartments
you will find a string. Tie the string to the servo lead.
The other end of the string is taped to the root wing
of the rib. Pull the leads through the wing.
❏❏6. Install the servo arms onto your servos. The
aileron servo will require a 1" [25mm] servo arm to get
the required aileron throw. A standard length arm will
work for the flap. Place your servo onto the mounting
blocks. Drill a 1/16" [1.6mm] hole through the servo
mounting tabs into the mounting blocks. Secure the
servos to the mounting blocks with the screws that
came with your servos.
❏❏7. Install the servo covers to the wing securing
them to the wing with four #2 × 3/8" [9.5mm] screws
and four #2 flat washers.
❏❏8. Located in both the aileron and the flap is
a plywood mounting plate. If you look at the control
surface at a slight angle you will be able to see the
plate through the covering.
❏❏9. The flap and aileron will each require a black
nylon control horn. The flap control horn needs to be
modified. Cut a control horn as shown. A high-speed
motor tool works well for this.

8
❏❏10. Place a black nylon control horn onto the
plywood mounting plate in the aileron in line with the
servo arm. Drill a 3/32" [2.4mm] hole through each
of the holes in the control horn. Drill only through the
plywood plate. Do not drill through the top of the
control surface. Mount the horn with four #4 × 3/8"
screws.
❏❏11. Install the modified control horn to the flap
using the same method used for the aileron.
❏❏12. Each aileron and flap pushrod is made from
a 5-3/4" [146mm] pushrod wire threaded on one end,
a threaded metal clevis, a 4-40 nut, a metal solder
clevis and two silicone clevis keepers.
❏❏13. Screw the 4-40 nut and the threaded metal
clevis onto the pushrod wire. Attach the clevis to the
third hole from the bottom of control horn. Attach the
metal solder clevis into the outer hole of the aileron
servo arm. Center the aileron servo arm and the aileron.
Mark on the pushrod wire where to cut the wire. Remove
all of the pushrod wire components. Solder the metal
solder clevis to the pushrod. If you are not familiar with
soldering, follow the “Hot Tip” that follows. After the
solder cools, apply threadlocker to the threaded wire
and tighten the nut against the clevis.

9
HOWTO SOLDER
1. Use denatured alcohol or other solvent to
thoroughly clean the pushrod. Roughen the end of
the pushrod with coarse sandpaper where it is to
be soldered.
2. Apply a few drops of soldering flux to the end of
the pushrod, then use a soldering iron or a torch
to heat it. “Tin” the heated area with silver solder
by applying the solder to the end. The heat of the
pushrod should melt the solder – not the flame of
the torch or soldering iron – thus allowing the solder
to flow. The end of the wire should be coated with
solder all the way around.
3. Place the clevis on the end of the pushrod. Add
another drop of flux, then heat and add solder. The
same as before, the heat of the parts being soldered
should melt the solder, thus allowing it to flow. Allow
the joint to cool naturally without disturbing. Avoid
excess blobs, but make certain the joint is thoroughly
soldered. The solder should be shiny, not rough. If
necessary, reheat the joint and allow to cool.
4. Immediately after the solder has solidified, but
while it is still hot, use a cloth to quickly wipe off the
flux before it hardens. Important: After the joint cools,
coat the joint with oil to prevent rust. Note: Do not
use the acid flux that comes with silver solder for
electrical soldering.
This is what a properly soldered clevis looks
like – shiny solder with good flow, no blobs and
flux removed.
❏❏14. Once the solder has cooled slide a silicone
clevis keeper over each clevis. Install the pushrod
wire assembly to the aileron servo arm and aileron
control horn.
❏❏15. Use the same procedure for the flap servo
except you will not center the servo. Instead, make sure
the flap is fully closed to the bottom of the wing.Then,
position the servo arm so that it is rotated toward the
wing trailing edge. Now you can proceed with making
the pushrod wire assembly.
❏16. Repeat steps 1-15 for the left wing.
You now need to make a decision on the type of
landing gear you will be installing. We provide fixed
wire landing gear as part of the kit. The retractable
rotating landing gear that is available from Robart
really is a great addition to the looks and the realism of
this airplane.You can choose to install the fixed landing
gear and upgrade to the Robart landing gear in the
future if you wish to. Both gears are interchangeable
in the mount.
If you will be installing the fixed wire landing gear,
continue with the next step. If you will be installing the
retractable landing gear, skip ahead to the next section.
“INSTALL THE RETRACTABLE LANDING GEAR”.
Did You Know?…Did You Know?…
The P-40 was a relatively clean design, and was
unusual for its time in having a fully retractable tail
wheel. One hundred and ninety-seven P-40s were
built in 1939-40 for the USAAF, and many more were
sold abroad to Britain and France.
INSTALLTHE FIXED WIRE
LANDING GEAR
IMPORTANT! The first step in the installation of the
landing gear is to identify which blocks go into each
wing half. This is the most critical part of the landing
gear installation. If you ever choose to upgrade to the
Robart retractable landing gear, the blocks must be
installed as shown.

10
❏❏1. Locate the four hardwood landing gear
blocks. Place them on you work bench exactly as
shown in the picture. You will notice that the front of
the block is square and the back of the block is angled.
You will also notice that there are a number of router
cuts in the blocks. Examine the picture closely to be
sure the blocks are just as shown in the picture.
❏❏2. Install the blocks for the right wing panel into
the opening as shown. If you have the correct blocks,
the angled end of the block should match the angle
of the opening in the wing.
❏ ❏
3. Install one of the aluminum/fiber landing
gear mounts between the landing gear blocks.
Temporarily secure the landing gear block and the
landing gear mount with six 8-32 × 2-1/2" [64mm]
socket head cap screws.
❏4. Repeat steps 1-3 for the left wing panel.
❏❏5. Double-check both of the landing gear block
installations to be sure they are correct.When you are
satisfied with the installation remove the bolts from the
right wing panel. Mix a 1/2 ounce [4 drams] of 30-minute
epoxy. Use an epoxy brush to apply a film of glue to
the bottom of the landing gear mounting blocks and
to the rails in the wing as well as the sides of the box
the mounts slide into. Be careful not to get glue into
the blind nuts. If you get glue into the threads of the
bolts or blind nuts, it will be very difficult to remove the
mounting bolts. As a precaution, you might consider
applying a small amount of petroleum jelly or lightweight
oil to the threads of the bolts before installing them.
Place the wood blocks in position on the rails. Place
the aluminum/fiber landing gear block between the
mounts. Secure the components to the wing with six
8-32 × 2-1/2" [64mm] socket head cap screws, #8 flat
washers and #8 lock washers.
❏❏6. Drill a 7/64" [2.8mm] hole through each of the
two rear mounting holes of the landing gear. Insert two
#6 × 1/2" screws, #6 lock washers and #6 flat washers.
❏❏7. Insert the landing gear wire into the hole in
the landing gear block. The axle of the wire must be

11
pointing toward the wing tip. If it does not, you have the
wrong wire. Install two aluminum landing gear straps
into the block and screw them to the block with four
#6 × 1/2" [13mm] screws.
❏ ❏
8. Slide a 6mm [15/64"] wheel collar onto the axle
followed by a 5/8" [16mm] long aluminum tube. Slide
the wheel onto the axle. Insert a 3mm × 5mm phillips
head screw into another 6mm wheel collar and then
secure the wheel collar to the end of the axle.
❏❏9. Slide the aluminum tube and the wheel collar
on the inside of the wheel against the wheel. Mark the
location of the wheel collars onto the axle and remove
the wheel, collars and aluminum tube.
❏❏10. At the location of the wheel collars make a
flat spot on the axle. A high-speed motor tool or small
file works well for this.
❏❏11. Locate two of the wheel covers and the wheel.
Screw the wheel cover with the large hole into the
pre-drilled holes in the wheel with four 2mm × 4mm
Philips head screws.
❏❏12. Slide one of the 6mm wheel collars with the
3mm × 5mm phillips head screw threaded into it onto
the axle, followed by the 5/8" [16mm] long aluminum
tube. Slide the wheel onto the axle and another wheel
collar and set screw. Apply threadlocker to the set
screws, then tighten the set screws in the wheel collars
against the flat spot you made in the axle.

12
❏❏13. Secure the outer wheel cover to the wheel
with four 2mm × 4mm Philips head screws.
❏14. Repeat steps 5-13 for the left wing panel.
If you have installed the fixed wire landing gear, skip
ahead to “MOUNT THE WING NACELLES”
INSTALLTHE RETRACTABLE
LANDING GEAR
IMPORTANT! The first step in the installation of the
landing gear is to identify which blocks go into each
wing half. This is the most critical part of the landing
gear installation. If these blocks are not installed
properly the landing gear will not fit properly into all
of the cut-outs in the blocks. Follow these instructions
exactly to insure the landing gear will fit properly.
❏❏1. Locate the four hardwood landing gear
blocks. Place them on your work bench exactly as
shown in the picture. You will notice that the front of
the block is square and the back of the block is angled.
You will also notice that there are a number of router
cuts in the blocks. Examine the picture closely to be
sure the blocks are just as shown in the picture.
❏❏2. Install the blocks for the right wing panel into
the opening as shown. If you have the correct blocks
the angled end of the block should match the angle
of the opening in the wing.
❏❏3. Install the right side landing gear between
the mounting blocks. The landing gear fits between
the blocks best if you install it with the gear retracted.
Mount the landing gear and the blocks with six 8-32 ×
2-1/2 [64mm] socket head cap screws, #8 flat washers
and #8 lock washers.
❏4. Repeat steps 1-3 for the left wing panel.
❏❏5. Double check both of the landing gear block
installations to be sure they are correct. Make sure
that the landing gear move smoothly in and out of
the wing. When you are satisfied with the installation
remove the bolts and the landing gear from the right
wing panel. Mix a 1/2 ounce [4 drams] of 30-minute
epoxy. Use an epoxy brush to apply a film of glue to
the bottom of the landing gear mounting blocks and to
the rails in the wing as well as the sides of the box the
mounts slide into. Be careful not to get glue into the
blind nuts. If you get glue into the threads of the bolts or
blind nuts it will be very difficult to remove the mounting
bolts. As a precaution you might consider applying a
small amount of petroleum jelly or lightweight oil to the
threads of the bolts before installing them. Place the
blocks in position on the rails. Place the landing gear
between the mounts. Secure the components to the
wing with six 8-32 × 2-1/2" [64mm] socket head caps
screws, #8 flat washers and #8 lock washers.
❏❏6. Repeat step five for the left wing. Set the wings
aside and allow the glue to cure. Move onto the next
step after the glue has completely cured.

13
❏❏7. Remove the landing gear from the right wing
panel.
❏❏8. If you have purchased the Robart air pressure
tubing, cut a piece of the red and blue line to a length
of 18" [457mm]. Cut the remaining line in half, leaving
you with two red and purple lines approximately 20"
[508mm] long.
❏❏9. Install the purple line to the fitting on the front
of the air cylinder and the red line to the rear fitting.
❏❏10. Re-install the landing gear to the blocks with
the six 8-32 × 2-1/2" [64mm] socket head cap screws,
#8 flat washers and #8 lock washers. Pull the air line
through the wing, exiting at the wing root.
❏❏11. Locate a wheel, the 5/8" [16mm] long
aluminum tube and the axle included with the landing
gear. Slide the axle into the wheel and slide the
aluminum tube over the axle.
❏❏12. Slide the wheel and axle into the landing
gear. Make a mark on the axle where it needs to be
cut to make it flush with the landing gear.
❏❏13. Cut off the end of the axle. A high-speed
motor tool and cut off wheel works well for this.
❏❏14. Determine where the set screw makes contact
with the axle. Make a flat spot on the axle with a file
or motor tool.
❏❏15. Locate two of the wheel covers and the wheel.
Screw the wheel cover with the large hole into the
pre-drilled holes in the wheel with four 2mm × 4mm
Philips head screws.
❏❏16. Slide the axle into the wheel from the side
without the wheel cover; then, slide the aluminum tube
over the axle.

14
❏❏17. Insert the axle and wheel into the landing gear.
Apply a drop of threadlocker onto the set screw; then,
tighten the set screw against the flat spot on the axle.
❏❏18. Install the remaining cover to the outside of
the wheel with four 2mm × 4mm Philips head screws.
❏19. Repeat steps 7–18 for the left wing panel.
MOUNTTHEWING NACELLES
❏❏1. Examine the two fiberglass landing gear
nacelles and determine which goes on each wing.
Drill four 5/64" [2mm] holes through the flange on each
side of the nacelle as shown.
❏❏2. Place the right nacelle over the landing gear
on the right wing. Be sure to center the nacelle to the
landing gear. Once you are satisfied with the location.
Drill a 1/16" [1.6 mm] hole through each of the holes
in the flanges, into the wing surface.
❏❏3. Insert and then remove a #2 × 3/8" [9.5mm]
screw into each of the holes in the wing. Around each
of the holes you made pierce four holes with a pin.
Apply a drop of thin CA glue into the holes, allowing
the glue to harden the threads you just made in the
balsa wing skin. Allow the glue to cure.
❏❏4. Mount the nacelle to the wing with eight #2
× 3/8" [9.5mm] screws. In our model development we
found that the procedure of strengthening the wood
with thin CA allowed the nacelles to be held securely
by the screws. If you feel that your engine may have
excessive vibration potentially causing the screws to
back out, or would like to add extra holding strength to
the nacelles you can apply a thin bead of R/C 56 glue
to each flange. If you should ever need to remove the
nacelle you can slide a knife blade under the flange
to free the glue bond.
❏5. Repeat steps 1– 4 for the left wing.

15
JOINTHEWING HALVES
❏1. Glue the 1/4" ×
3/4" [6mm × 19mm]
dowel into the hole
at the rear of the
root rib in the right
wing.
❏2.You will see two holes in the left wing panel.These
holes are to allow the servo leads and the air lines to
exit the wing. Important: Be sure that you feed all of
the servo leadsand all of theair lines throughthese two
holes before gluing the wings together in the next step.
❏3. Locate the hardwood wing joiner and examine
these pictures to understand how to install the joiner
into the wings. Test fit the joiner into the wings.
❏4. When you are satisfied with the fit of the joiner, glue
the joiner into the wing joiner pockets with 30-minute
epoxy. When gluing the wings together be sure that
you use plenty of glue in the joiner pockets, the joiner
and the root ribs of the wing. Use masking tape to hold
the wings together while the glue cures.
❏5. Test fit the two 3/8" × 2" [9.5mm × 51mm] wood
dowels into the two holes in the leading edge of the
wing. Place them into the holes so that 3/4" [19mm] of
the dowel extends out of the wing. Make a mark on the
dowel to indicate this distance. Remove the dowel; then,
apply epoxy into the holes and on the dowel. Slide the
dowel into the hole leaving 3/4" [19mm] extending from
the wing. Clean off any excess epoxy with denatured
alcohol and a paper towel.
❏6. Mount the wing to the fuselage with the two 1/4-
20 × 2" [51mm] nylon wing bolts. Locate the fiberglass
belly pan. Place it on the wing. With a fine-tip felt pen,
mark the location on the wing for the belly pan.
❏7. Following the instructions for cutting MonoKote
in the “Hot Tip” that follows, carefully cut the covering
from the wing, making sure you do not cut the wing skin.
IMPORTANT: Cutting the wing skin will severely
weaken the structure.

16
HOWTO CUT COVERING FROM BALSA
Use a soldering iron to cut the covering from the
stab. The tip of the soldering iron doesn’t have to be
sharp, but a fine tip does work best. Allow the iron to
heat fully. Use a straightedge to guide the soldering
iron at a rate that will just melt the covering and not
burn into the wood. The hotter the soldering iron,
the faster it must travel to melt a fine cut. Peel off
the covering.
❏8. Lightly scuff the flange of the fiberglass belly pan
with 220-grit sandpaper. Wipe off the residue with a
paper towel wetted with denatured alcohol.
❏9. Apply epoxy to the belly pan flange. Then glue
the belly pan in place on the fuselage. Tape the belly
pan in place until the glue cures.
❏10. Locate the rear fiberglass belly pan and place
it in position on the fuselage behind the belly pan you
just glued in place. Mark the location on the fuselage
and cut the covering away using the same technique
used for the main belly pan. Glue the rear belly pan
in place. Tape it in place behind the main belly pan.
You should maintain a gap between the belly pans of
3/32" [2.4mm]. After the glue has cured remove the
wing from the fuselage.
❏11. Locate six 3/8" × 1-3/4" [9.5mm × 44mm] black
tubes. These tubes replicate the machine guns. Test
fit a tube into each of the holes in the leading edge
of the wing. Once you are satisfied with the fit, glue a
tube into each hole. Leave 3/8" of the tube extending
beyond the leading edge of the wing.
❏12. Install the Robart T-fittings and quick connect air
line connectors to the air lines from the landing gear.

17
Did You Know?…Did You Know?…
In the middle of 1941, General Claire Chennault began
recruiting for hisVolunteer Group–better known as the
Flying Tigers–to fight the Japanese from China, for
which 100 P-40s were ordered for purchase through
a loan from the U.S.Government.
ASSEMBLETHE FUSELAGE
INSTALLTHE STABILIZER
❏1. Test fit the two aluminum stabilizer tubes in the
fuselage and slide the stabilizers onto the tubes.The
shorter tube goes in the front hole. If the aluminum
tubes are too tight to slide through the holes, take
a sharp hobby knife and gently scrape the inside of
the holes. During the manufacturing process a small
amount of resin or filler may be left behind in the hole.
❏2. Once you are satisfied with the fit of the stabilizer
halves, remove the stabilizer halves and joiner tubes.
Use medium grit sandpaper to roughen up the
aluminum tubes. Clean the tubes with denatured
alcohol and insert both tubes back into the fuselage
until the end exits on the opposite side by approximately
1" [25.4mm].
❏3. Gather everything required for gluing the stabilizer
halves to the fuselage, including 30-minute epoxy,
mixing sticks, epoxy brush, 12" [305mm] long dowel
or wire, masking tape, denatured alcohol and small
paper towel squares. Mix up 3/4 oz. [22cc] of 30-minute
epoxy. Apply a generous amount of epoxy to the long
side of the aluminum joiner tubes. Pull the tubes
through the fuselage so that they are close to centered.
Pour a small amount of epoxy into both holes of one
of the stabilizer halves. Using a dowel or wire, coat
the inside of the holes. Apply epoxy to the root rib of
the stabilizer and the fuselage. Insert the end of the
aluminum tubes with epoxy on them into the stabilizer
and press the stabilizer against the fuselage. Wipe off
any excess epoxy that may have squeezed out before
it runs down the fuselage. Quickly repeat the process
on the other side. Wipe off any excess epoxy with a
dampened paper towel and denatured alcohol. Use
pieces of masking tape to hold the stabilizer halves
tight against the fuselage until the epoxy cures.
❏4. Without using any glue, install three hinges into
the holes in the trailing edge of the fin. Note that the
pivot point of each hinge must align with the center of
the trailing edge. To achieve this alignment, the hinges
will be fairly deep in the fin. Also note that the hinges
must be perpendicular to the leading edge.
❏5. Again without glue, test fit the rudder to the fin.
Remove the rudder and all the hinges. Add a small drop

18
of oil to the pivot point on the hinges. This will prevent
the epoxy from adhering to the pivot point. Make sure
oil does not get on the gluing surface of the hinge.
If it does, clean the oil off with a paper towel square
dampened with denatured alcohol.
❏6. Mix up approximately 1/4 oz. [7.4cc] of 30-minute
epoxy. Use a toothpick to thoroughly apply the epoxy in
the holes in the fin and rudder. Use the toothpick to get
the epoxy out of the opening of the holes in the rudder
and fin so it doesn’t get into the hinge pin. Wipe away
any excess epoxy around the outside of the holes with
a couple of the small paper towel squares dampened
with denatured alcohol.
❏7. Use the toothpick to apply epoxy to the ends
of the rudder hinges that go into the fin. Insert each
hinge into the fin and wipe away any excess epoxy
that squeezes out of the hole.
❏8. Apply epoxy to the other end of the hinges. Join
the rudder to the fin, pushing the hinges only about
3/4 of the way into the rudder. Use a toothpick to wipe
away any epoxy that squeezes out. Then push the
rudder the rest of the way in.
❏
9. Move the rudder left and right to align the hinges.
If needed, use a length of masking tape to hold the
rudder to the fin. Allow the glue to fully cure.
INSTALLTHETAIL GEAR ASSEMBLY
We have provided instructions for the installation of the
fixed tail gear assembly and the Robart retractable tail
gear. The two tail gears are interchangeable; you can
install the fixed gear and upgrade to the retractable
gear later if you wish. Proceed to "Mount the Fixed
Tail Gear" or if you will be installing the retractable tail
gear skip ahead to, “Mount the Retractable Tail Gear”.
MOUNTTHE FIXEDTAIL GEAR
❏1. Slide a 3.5mm wheel collar on the tail gear wire.
Insert the tail gear wire in the tail gear mount. Install
a second wheel collar followed by the steering arm
on the tail gear wire. Apply a drop of threadlocker on
three 3mm × 6mm machine screws. Secure the two
wheel collars and the steering arm to the tail gear wire
with the three 3mm × 6mm machine screws. Adjust
the location of the steering arm so that it is flush with
the top of the tail gear wire and perpendicular to the
tail wheel. Also, remove the two nuts from the top of
the tail gear, apply threadlocker and reinstall the nuts.
❏2. Enlarge the holes in the steering arm with a 5/64"
[2mm] drill bit. Mount a 2-56 ball link ball to each arm
with a 2-56 nut and a drop of threadlocker.
❏3. Skip to step 6 in “Mount the RetractableTail
Gear” and follow the steps for installing the pull-
pull cable.
MOUNTTHE RETRACTABLE TAIL GEAR
❏1. Remove the steering arm from the Robart
#160LWC retractable tail gear assembly (not included).
File a flat spot near the top of the shaft for the set screw

19
in the steering arm to lock onto. Mount the steering
arm to the shaft with a drop of threadlocker and the
set screw.
❏
2. File another flat spot near the bottom of the
shaft for one of the set screws in the strut. Tighten
both set screws with a drop of threadlocker on each.
Be certain the steering arm and the axle in the strut
remain parallel with each other. Make adjustments to
the flat spots if necessary.
❏
3. Enlarge the center hole in both sides of the
steering arm with a 3/32" [2.4mm] drill.
❏4. Cut off the part of the steering arm outside of the
center hole and re-shape the end ot the steering arm.
❏5. Insert a 2-56 ball link ball in the hole. Secure
each ball with a 2-56 nut and a drop of threadlocker
❏6. Use wire cutters to cut the supplied braided cable
into two equal lengths. Slide a small copper tube (called
a swage) over one end of the cables, then guide the
end of the cable back through.
❏7. Wrap the cable back around the swage and back
through the swage.
❏8. Use pliers to pull the cable from the first loop to
reduce the size of the second loop.
❏9. Now pull on the long end of the cable to reduce
the size of the first loop. Slip the loop over one of the
ball link balls on the steering arm. Tighten the loop
until it is small enough to remain secure on the ball,
yet may still be pried off. Squeeze the swage with
pliers. Connect the other cable to the other ball link
ball the same way.
❏10. Retractable tail gear only: Connect 40"
[1016mm] of purple air line to the forward air fitting

20
and 40" [1016mm] of red air line to the aft fitting on
the air cylinder. There is not enough air line left over
from the main gear, so additional line will have to be
purchased separately (Robart #169 Pressure Tubing).
❏11. Place the tail gear (fixed or retractable) in the
fuselage while simultaneously guiding the pull/pull cable
through the white plastic guide tubes. If installing the
retractable tail gear, also guide the air lines through
the fuselage.
❏12. Drill four 3/32" [2.4mm] holes through the rails
for mounting the tail gear. If your drill bit is not long
enough to reach the rail nearest the top of the fuselage,
use medium CA to temporarily glue a 3/32" [2.4mm]
drill bit in a 1/8" [3.2mm] brass tube. After drilling the
holes, the drill bit can be removed from the tube by
heating the tube.
❏
13. Mount the tail gear in the fuselage with four
#6 × 1/2" [12.7mm] sheet metal screws. Enlarge the
center hole through the 1-3/4" [44mm] tailwheel with
a #9 [5mm] drill. Cut the axle included with the Robart
retractable tail gear to the correct length; then, file a
flat spot on it and mount it to the strut.
❏14. Locate the fiberglass tail gear cover. Place it
onto the fuselage making sure you align the color
markings on it to the markings on the fuselage. Drill
three 1/16" [1.6mm] holes into each side of the cover,
drilling through the fuselage. Secure the cover with
six #2 × 3/8" [9.5m] screws. It is recommended that
you harden these screw holes in the balsa fuselage
with thin CA to be assured the threads are strong.
Follow the technique provided on page 6. ("Assemble
the Wing")
Did You Know?…Did You Know?…
The P-40 Warhawk was a deadly fighting machine in
trained hands.The formidablearmament of 6× 12.7mm
(.50 caliber) machine guns (up to 200 rounds per gun)
was complemented by the ability of the aircraft to carry
a bombload for an increasingly expanding workload.
INSTALLTHE ELEVATOR
& RUDDER SERVOS
❏1. Cut two 4-40 × 48" [1220mm] metal pushrods to
a length of 30" [762mm]. Insert the pushrods into the
upper pushrod exit holes on each side of the fuselage
as shown in the photo.
❏2. Thread a 4-40 nut, threaded clevis and a silicone
clevis retainer, 12 turns, onto both elevator pushrods.