Top Flite Piper Arrow II User manual

WARRANTY: Top Flite Models guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Top Flite’s liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Top Flite reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice. In thatTop Flite has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user- assembled product. By the act of using the user-
assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase. To make a warranty claim send the defective part or item to Hobby Services at the address below.
Hobby Services
3002 N. Apollo Dr. Suite 1
Champaign IL 61822
USA
Include a letter stating your name, return shipping address, as much contact information as possible (daytime telephone number, fax number, e-mail address), a detailed description of the problem and a photocopy of the purchase receipt. Upon receipt of the package the problem will be evaluated as quickly as possible.
Top Flite Models • Champaign, Illinois •Telephone [phone] ext. 5 • Fax [phone] • [email protected]
READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION BOOK FIRST. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.
ARO6PO4 V1.0
Entire Contents © Copyright 2004
Wingspan: 81 in [2060mm]
Wing Area: 1089 sq in [70.2 dm2]
Weight: 12–14 lb [5440–6350 g] Wing Loading: 25–30 oz/sq ft [76–92 g/dm2] Fuselage Length: 61.5 in [1560mm] Radio: 6-channel, 1 high-torque servo, 5-7
standard servos, 1 micro servo (optional)
Engine: .61–.91 cu in [10.0–15.0cc] two-stroke,
.91 cu in [15.0cc] four-stroke
Top Flite Gold Edition Piper Arrow II Assembly Instructions
USA
MADE IN
™

TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION....................................................2 SAFETY PRECAUTIONS......................................3 DECISIONSYOU MUST MAKE............................4
Radio Equipment................................................4 Engine Recommendations.................................4 Landing Gear Options........................................4 Cockpit & Pilots..................................................5 Trim Scheme/Finishing Supplies........................5
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED.........................5
Hardware and Accessories................................5 Adhesives and Building Supplies.......................5 Optional Supplies and Tools...............................6
IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES ..........................6 COMMON ABBREVIATIONS................................7 DIE-CUT PATTERNS ........................................8&9 PREPARE TO BUILD...........................................10
Build the Tail Surfaces......................................10 Build the Vertical Stabilizer (Fin)......................10 Finish the Fin & Rudder...................................13 Build the Horizontal Stabilizer (Stab)...............14
BUILD THE WING................................................18
Make the Wing Skins .......................................18 Build the Center Panel.....................................18 Build the Outer Panels.....................................21 Fit the Fixed Landing Gear ..............................23 Fit the Retractable Landing Gear.....................23 Finish Fitting the Landing Gear........................24 Sheet the Bottom of the Wing..........................25 Mount the Hatches and Landing Gear.............26 Build the Ailerons.............................................28 Build the Flaps.................................................29 Hinge the Flaps................................................31 Mount the Flap and Aileron Servos .................32 Join the Wing ...................................................33
BUILD THE FUSELAGE......................................34
Frame the Bottom of the Fuselage ..................34 Sheet the Bottom of the Fuselage...................37 Mount the Fixed Nose Gear.............................39 Fit the Retractable Nose Gear.........................39 Mount the Engine.............................................40 Connect the Nose Steering and Throttle .........40 Cover the Horizontal Stabilizer.........................41 Mount the Horizontal Stabilizer........................43
Mount the Vertical Stabilizer (Fin)....................45 Sheet the Aft End of the Fuselage...................47 Build the Dorsal Fin..........................................48 Finish the Top of the Fuselage.........................48 Mount the Cabin Top........................................49 Fit the Tail Cone...............................................51
FINAL CONSTRUCTION.....................................53
Mount the Cowl................................................53 Mount the Wing................................................56 Build the Belly Pan...........................................57
FINISH THE MODEL ...........................................58
Covering...........................................................58 Painting ............................................................61 Final Assembly and Systems Hookup.............62 Mount the Pilots...............................................66
Glue on the External Stringers ............................67 Apply the Decals..................................................67 Add Panel Lines...................................................67 GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY .....................67
Center the Controls & Check the Directions....67 Set the Control Throws ....................................68 Balance the Model (C.G.) ................................69 Balance the Model Laterally.............................69
PREFLIGHT.........................................................69
Identify Your Model...........................................69 Charge the Batteries........................................69 Balance Propellers...........................................70 Ground Check..................................................70 Range Check ...................................................70
ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS.....................70 AMA SAFETY CODE..........................................71 IMAA SAFETY CODE.........................................71 CHECK LIST........................................................72 FLYING ................................................................72
Takeoff..............................................................73 Flight ................................................................73 Landing ............................................................73
Fuselage/Wing Plan.........................center section
INTRODUCTION
Congratulations and thank you for purchasing the Top Flite®
Gold Edition
Piper Arrow II. One of the unique
features of this Top Flite
Gold
kit is the scale
corrugations on the vertical and horizontal stab and on all of the control surfaces. The corrugations are optional, but add much to the scale effect of this model. While this kit can be assembled by intermediate builders, note that the corrugations take additional time, skill and patience.Read through the manual to see how the corrugations are made and how they are covered before making a decision. Should you decide not to build your Arrow with corrugated control surfaces simply replace the die-cut, corrugated skins with regular sheeting (not included). Another option is to build the plane with fixed or retractable landing gear. This kit was designed to fit Robart retracts, so should you decide to install another brand any modifications required would be up to you. Flaps are another option. The manual is primarily “geared” toward building the Arrow with flaps, but instructions are also provided for building the model without flaps. Lastly, the cabin top is vacuum-formed from a clear, PETG plastic sheet.The window outlines are molded in.Finishing the cabin top requires masking, sanding and painting around the windows. Since the cabin top is molded from PETG, it may be painted withTop Flite LustreKote®.
The level of scale detail you wish to achieve is up to you. Simply by following the instructions you’ll end up with a model that very much represents a Piper Arrow II. But you could also “go all-out” by adding even more scale details to make a model that would be a contender in any level of scale competition. For the latest technical updates or manual corrections to the Piper Arrow visit the Top Flite web site at www.top-flite.com.Open the “Airplanes” link, then
select the Piper Arrow. If there is new technical information or changes to this model a“tech notice”box will appear in the upper left corner of the page.
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AMA We urge you to join the AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics) and a local R/C club. The AMA is the governing body of model aviation and membership is required to fly at AMA clubs. Though joining the AMA provides many benefits, one of the primary reasons to join is liability protection. Coverage is not limited to flying at contests or on the club field. It even applies to flying at public demonstrations and air shows. Failure to comply with the Safety Code (excerpts printed in the back of the manual) may endanger insurance coverage. Additionally, training programs and instructors are available at AMA club sites to help you get started the right way.There are over 2,500 AMA chartered clubs across the country. Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free phone number below:
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302-9252
Tele. [phone]
Fax [phone]
Or via the Internet at: http://www.modelaircraft.org
IMPORTANT!!!
Two of the most important things you can do to preserve the radio controlled aircraft hobby are to avoid flying near full-scale aircraft and avoid flying near or over groups of people. IMAA The Top Flite Piper Arrow II is an excellent scale model and is eligible to fly in IMAA events.The IMAA (International Miniature Aircraft Association) is an organization that promotes non-competitive flying of giant-scale models. If you plan to attend an IMAA event, obtain a copy of the IMAA Safety Code by contacting the IMAA at the address or telephone number below, or by logging on to their web site at:
www.fly-imaa.org/imaa/sanction.html
IMAA 205 S. Hilldale Road Salina, KS 67401 [phone] Scale Competition The outline of this Top Flite Gold Edition Piper Arrow II was derived from three-view drawings and photos. The scale is 1:4.6 which was calculated from averaging the scale wingspan and the scale length. Though theTop Flite Piper Arrow II may not have the same level of detail as an “all-out” scratch-built competition model, it is still a relatively detailed scale model and is therefore ideal for competing in R/C Sport Scale (Sportsman and Expert), R/C
Fun Scale
(Division 1 or Division 2), or even the Team Scale classes in AMA competition (we receive many favorable reports of Top Flite models in scale competition!).In Fun Scale, to receive the five points for scale documentation, the only proof required that a full size aircraft of this type did exist in your paint/markings scheme is a single sheet such as a kit box cover from a plastic model, a photo, or a profile painting, etc. If the photo is in black and white other written documentation of color must be provided. Contact the AMA for a rule book with full details. Note: The propeller on the model on the kit box cover is oversize for the engine, but provides a scale appearance. It is a Master Airscrew 13 x 8 three-blade (MASQ1938). The model could actually be flown with a three-blade prop, but it must be the correct size to match your engine. If you would like photos of the full-size Piper Arrow for scale documentation, or if you would like to study the photos to add more scale details, photo packs are available from:
Bob’s Aircraft Documentation
3114 Yukon Ave
Costa Mesa, CA 92626
Telephone: [phone]
Fax: [phone]
e-mail: www.bobsairdoc.com
1. Your Piper Arrow should not be considered a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working model that functions very much like a full-size airplane. Because of its performance capabilities, the Piper Arrow, if not assembled and operated correctly, could possibly cause injury to yourself or spectators and damage to property. 2. You must assemble the model according to the instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so may result in an unsafe or unflyable model. In a few cases the instructions may differ slightly from the photos. In those instances the written instructions should be considered as correct. 3. Youmusttaketime to build straight,true and strong. 4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in first- class condition, and a correctly sized engine and components (fuel tank, wheels, etc.) throughout the building process. 5. You must correctly install all R/C and other components so that the model operates correctly on the ground and in the air. 6. You must check the operation of the model before every flight to insure that all equipment is operating and that the model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to check clevises or other connectors often and replace them if they show any signs of wear or fatigue. 7. If you are not an experienced pilot or have not flown this type of model before, we recommend that you get the assistance of an experienced pilot in your R/C club for your first flights. If you’re not a member of a club, your local hobby shop has
PROTECTYOUR MODEL,
YOURSELF & OTHERS
FOLLOW THESE IMPORTANT
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
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information about clubs in your area whose membership includes experienced pilots. 8. While this kit has been flight tested to exceed normal use, if the plane will be used for extremely high stress flying, such as racing, or if an engine larger than one in the recommended range is used, the modeler is responsible for taking steps to reinforce the high stress points and/or substituting hardware more suitable for the increased stress. Remember: Take your time and follow the instructions to end up with a well-built model that is straight and true. Before starting to build, compare the parts in this kit with the Parts List and die drawings and note any missing parts. Also inspect all parts to make sure they are of acceptable quality. If any parts are missing, broken or defective, or if you have any questions about building or flying this airplane, please contact Top Flite at the address or telephone number below. If requesting replacement parts, please provide the full kit name (Top Flite Gold Edition Piper Arrow) and the part numbers as listed in the Parts List.
Top Flite Product Support
3002 N Apollo Drive Suite 1
Champaign, IL 61822
Telephone: [phone]
Fax: [phone]
E-mail: productsuppor[email protected].
DECISIONSYOU MUST MAKE
This is a partial list of items required to finish the Piper Arrow that may require planning or decision making before starting to build. Order numbers are provided in parentheses. RADIO EQUIPMENT Even though the Piper Arrow is giant-scale, it’s basically a “.60-size” model. Therefore, the Arrow doesn’t require any specialized, heavy-duty radio gear. It may be flown safely with standard servos on all of the flying surfaces except for the full-flying stabilizer. The stabilizer should be controlled by a ball bearing servo with at least 50 oz.-in. of torque. Servo extensions and Y-harnesses will also be required. Following is a list of servos and other gear used to build the Piper Arrow as shown in this manual. If you set up your model differently, other radio gear may be required. Note: All of the part numbers provided for R/C gear are for Futaba.®
❏(1) Stabilizer servo with at least 50 oz.-in. of
torque (Futaba S9001 or similar—FUTM0075)
❏(5) Standard servos (1-nose wheel steering,
1-throttle, 2-ailerons, 1-rudder)
❏(2) Hobbico 24"[610mm] servo extensions (for
ailerons—HCAM2721)
❏(3) Hobbico 12"[305mm] servo extensions (for
stabilizer and rudder servos and coming from receiver to hook up ailerons —HCAM2711)
❏(1) Futaba dual extension cord (for ailerons—
FUTM4130)
A Great Planes Switch & Charge Jack Mounting Set was also used (GPMM1000) The following items will also be required if building optional flaps:
❏(2) Standard servos ❏(1) HobbicoY-harness (HCAM2751) ❏(1) 12"[305mm] servo extension (from receiver
to flap Y-harness—HCAM2711)
If installing retractable landing gear this additional radio equipment will also be required.
❏(1) Micro servo ❏(1) 6"[150mm] servo extension (HCAM2701)
A receiver battery pack with a minimum of 1,000mAh is also required. (Futaba HR4RB, FUTM1380) ENGINE RECOMMENDATIONS The engine size recommendations for the Piper Arrow are straightforward. See the recommendations on the cover of this manual. Keep in mind that this is a scale model of a four-seat, general aviation aircraft, not an aerobatic air show plane. It is intended to fly “on the wing” and will do so easily with a .61 two-stroke or a .91 four-stroke.Do not overpower this aircraft. If using an O.S.®Max SF or SX engine the Top Flite in-cowl
muffler may be used:
❏TOPQ7920 Top Flite header for in-cowl muffler
(For O.S. Max engines)
❏TOPQ7917 Top Flite In-cowl muffler
LANDING GEAR OPTIONS The Piper Arrow requires two 3"[75mm] main wheels and one 2-1/2"[64mm] nose wheel. If building the Arrow with fixed landing gear, any brand of the appropriate-size wheels is suitable. With retracts, Robart wheels are recommended as they are narrow and fit better into the wing. Note that a Robart 2- 1/4"[57mm] nose wheel is recommended as it will fit on the nose strut better than a 2-1/2"[64mm] wheel (the Robart 2-1/4"[57mm] wheel is actually closer to 2-3/8"[60mm], so it is only 1/8"[3mm] smaller than recommended). Following are the part numbers for the recommended wheels:
❏Great Planes 3"[75mm] main wheels
(GPMQ4225)
❏Great Planes 2-1/2"[64mm] nose wheel
(GPMQ4223)
-or-
❏Robart 3"[75mm] main wheels (ROBQ1514) ❏Robart 2-1/4"[57mm] nose wheel (ROBQ1511)
NOTE: We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a top quality kit and great instructions, but ultimately the quality and flyability of your finished model depends on how you build it; therefore, we cannot in any way guarantee the performance of your completed model, and no representations are expressed or implied as to the performance or safety of your completed model.

The following items were also used to assemble the Piper Arrow with retractable landing gear:
❏Robart #530ARW pneumatic retractable
landing gear kit for Piper Arrow (ROBQ1621)
❏Robart #188VR variable rate air control kit
(ROBQ2302, includes air tank, variable rate valve, lines, fittings)
❏(1 pkg.) Robart #190 Air Line Quick
Disconnects (ROBQ2395)
❏Robart hand pump with gauge (or suitable
replacement) (ROBQ2363)
❏Micro servo and 6"[150mm] servo extension
(previously listed under “Radio Equipment”)
❏(2 pkgs.) Great Planes 0-80 (1/16”) threaded
ball link ball (GPMQ3842)
❏Optional: 3/4 oz. [20g] glass cloth to reinforce
wing sheeting inside wheel wells (HCAR5000)
COCKPIT AND PILOTS A scale cockpit kit is also available for this model (TOPQ8414). It includes the floor, sides and back, instrument panel, dashboard and four seats. Even though the cockpit kit can’t be seen in great detail unless you are up close or have the cabin top removed, it adds MUCH to the overall scale effect and really “finishes” the model. Installation instructions are also included with the cockpit kit. Two Williams Brother’s #62600 Sportsman 3"[75mm] (1/4-scale) pilots (WBRQ2626) were used. Since the pilots are not full-body, a platform was made from 3/32"[2.4mm] hard balsa to support them. Acrylic paint found at craft stores and hobby shops was used for painting the pilots.Acrylic paint is favored because it is easy to use and washes with water. TRIM SCHEME/FINISHING SUPPLIES The trim scheme on the model on the kit box cover was inspired by a full-size Piper Arrow. All of the wood surfaces were covered with Top Flite MonoKote®. The cabin top, cowl and tail cone were
painted withTop Flite LustreKote®.Modelers who are
experienced in the application of iron-on coverings will find this trim scheme of medium difficulty. If a simpler or different trim scheme is desired this one
could be used as a reference, or just follow the trim scheme of another full-size subject. Following are the part numbers of the MonoKote, LustreKote and covering tools used. COVERING
❏(2) 6’ [1.8m] rolls White MonoKote (TOPQ0204) ❏(1) 6’ [1.8m] roll Metallic red MonoKote
(TOPQ0405)
❏(1) 6’ [1.8m] roll Metallic gold MonoKote
(TOPQ0404)
PAINT
❏(2) White primer LustreKote (TOPR7801) ❏(1) Jet White LustreKote (TOPR7204) ❏(1) Metallic red LustreKote (TOPR7405) ❏(1) Crystal clear-gloss LustreKote (TOPR7200) ❏1 roll of 1/4"[6.4mm] Metallic gold striping tape was
also used on the cowl and tail cone (GPMQ1530)
COVERING TOOLS
❏Top Flite MonoKote trim seal iron (TOPR2200) ❏21st Century sealing iron (COVR2700) ❏21st Century iron cover (COVR2702)
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED
HARDWARE AND ACCESSORIES In addition to the items listed in the “DecisionsYou Must Make” section, following is the list of hardware and accessories required to finish the Piper Arrow. Order numbers are provided in parentheses.
❏Propeller and spare propellers suitable for
your engine
❏14 oz. [420cc] fuel tank (GPMQ4106) ❏Fuel line (3’ [910mm], GPMQ4131) ❏2-1/2"[65mm] spinner (white-GPMQ4520, black-
GPMQ4521, red-GPMQ4522)
-or-
❏Three-blade aluminum True Turn spinner
(TRUQ2514)
❏Acrylic paint and paint brushes for painting pilot
(found at craft stores)
❏Auto body filler (Bondo or similar) ❏R/C foam padding (1/4"[6mm] HCAQ1000,
1/2"[13mm] HCAQ1050)
❏Sullivan #521 Kevlar pull-pull control cable set
(for nose wheel steering, SULQ3121)
❏If building flaps: (1 pkg. of 6) Robart Super
Hinge Points (ROBQ2509)
ADHESIVES AND BUILDING SUPPLIES In addition to common modeling tools (screw drivers, hobby knives, drill, etc.), this is the “short list” of the most important items required to build the Piper Arrow.
We recommend Great Planes Pro™ CA and
Epoxy glue.
❏2 oz. [60g] Thin Pro CA (GPMR6003) ❏2 oz. [60g] Medium Pro CA+ (GPMR6009) ❏1/2 oz. [15g] Thick Pro CA- (GPMR6013) ❏Pro 30-minute epoxy (GPMR6047) ❏Pro 6-minute epoxy (GPMR6045) ❏Pro Aliphatic resin (2 oz. [60g], GPMR6160) ❏NHP balsa filler (NHPR2211) ❏Plan protector (GPMR6167) or wax paper ❏Drill bits: 1/16"[1.6mm], 5/64"[2mm],
3/32"[2.4mm], 7/64"[2.8mm], 1/8"[3.2mm], 9/64"[3.6mm], 5/32"[4mm], 11/64"[4.4mm], 3/16"[4.8mm], 13/64"[5.2mm], 7/32"[5.6mm], 15/64 [6mm], 1/4"[6.4mm], 17/64"[6.7mm], 9/32"[7.1mm]
❏8-32 tap and drill set (GPMR8103) ❏1/4-20 tap and drill set (GPMR8105) ❏Tap handle (GPMR8120) ❏Small metal file ❏Stick-on segmented lead weights (GPMQ4485) ❏Silver solder w/flux (GPMR8070) ❏#1 Hobby knife (HCAR0105) ❏#11 blades (100-pack, HCAR0311)
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❏Single-edge razor blades (100-pack, HCAR0312) ❏Small T-pins (100, HCAR5100) ❏Medium T-pins (100, HCAR5150) ❏Large T-pins (100, HCAR5200) ❏Sanding tools and sandpaper assortment (
see
Easy-Touch Bar Sander section)
❏16"x 48"[410 x 1220mm] Great Planes Pro
Building Board (GPMR6950)
❏Curved-tip canopy scissors for trimming plastic
parts (HCAR0667)
OPTIONAL SUPPLIES AND TOOLS Here is a list of optional tools mentioned in the manual that will help you build the Piper Arrow.
❏2 oz. [57g] spray CA activator (GPMR6035) ❏4 oz. [113g] aerosol CA activator (GPMR634) ❏CA applicator tips (HCAR3780) ❏CA debonder (GPMR6039) ❏3M 75 repositionable spray adhesive
(MMMR1900)
❏Kyosho®masking film (KYOR1040)
❏Epoxy brushes (6, GPMR8060) ❏Mixing sticks (50, GPMR8055) ❏Mixing cups (GPMR8056) ❏Builder’s Triangle Set (HCAR0480) ❏Metal Template Set (30/60/90 and 45 degree
triangles, HCAR0500)
❏36"metal ruler (HCAR0475) ❏Robart Super Stand II (ROBP1402) ❏24"x 36"[460 x 910mm] Builder’s Cutting Mat
(HCAR0456)
❏16"x 48"[410 x 1220mm] building board
(GPMR6950)
❏Fuel filler valve for glow fuel (GPMQ4160) ❏Hobbico Duster™can of compressed air (HCAR5500)
❏Masking tape (TOPR8018) ❏Milled fiberglass (GPMR6165)
❏Microballoons (TOPR1090) ❏Threadlocker thread locking cement
(GPMR6060)
❏Denatured alcohol (for epoxy clean up) ❏K & S #801 Kevlar thread (for stab alignment) ❏Panel Line Pen (TOPQ2510) ❏Rotary tool such as Dremel ❏Rotary tool reinforced cut-off wheel (GPMR8200) ❏Servo horn drill (HCAR0698) ❏Hobby Heat™Micro Torch II (HCAR0755)
❏Dead Center™Engine Mount Hole Locator
(GPMR8130)
❏AccuThrow™Deflection Gauge (GPMR2405)
❏Precision Hinge Marking Tool (GPMR4005) ❏Slot Machine™hinge slotting tool (110V, GPMR4010)
❏CG Machine™ (GPMR2400) ❏Laser incidence meter (GPMR4020) ❏Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer™
(TOPQ5700)
EASY-TOUCH™BAR SANDER
A flat, durable, easy-to-handle sanding tool is a necessity for building a well-finished model. Great Planes makes a complete range of Easy-Touch Bar Sanders and replaceable Easy-Touch Adhesive- backed Sandpaper.While building the Piper Arrow, two 5-1/2"[140mm] Bar Sanders and two 11"[280mm] Bar Sanders equipped with 80-grit and 150-grit Adhesive-backed Sandpaper were used.
Here’s the complete list of Easy-Touch Bar Sanders
and Adhesive Backed Sandpaper:
5-1/2"[140mm] Bar Sander (GPMR6169) 11"[280mm] Bar Sander (GPMR6170) 22"[560mm] Bar Sander (GPMR6172) 33"[840mm] Bar Sander (GPMR6174) 44"[1120mm] Bar Sander (GPMR6176) 11"[280mm] Contour Multi-Sander (GPMR6190)
12’ [3.66m] roll of Adhesive-backed 80-grit
sandpaper (GPMR6180)
150-grit (GPMR6183) 180-grit (GPMR6184) 220-grit (GPMR6185) Assortment pack of 5-1/2"[140mm] strips
(GPMR6189)
We also useTop Flite 320-grit (TOPR8030, 4 sheets) and 400-grit (TOPR8032, 4 sheets) wet-or-dry sandpaper for finish sanding.
IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES
·Wheneverjust
epoxy
isspecified you mayuse
either
30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy
or
6-minute epoxy.
When 30-minute epoxy is specified it is highly recommended that you use only 30-minute (or 45- minute) epoxy, because you will need the working time and/or the additional strength.
·Photos and sketches are placed before the step
they refer to. Frequently you can study photos in following steps to get another view of the same parts.
·Not all die-cut parts have a name, or their complete
name stamped on them, so refer to the die drawings on pages 8 & 9 for identification. When it’s time to remove the parts from their die sheets, if they are difficult to remove, do not force them out.Instead, use a sharp #11 blade to carefully cut the part from the sheet, then lightly sand the edges to remove any slivers or irregularities. Save some of the larger scraps of wood.
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TYPES OF WOOD
BALSA BASSWOOD PLYWOOD
COMMON ABBREVIATIONS
Fuse = Fuselage
Stab = Horizontal Stabilizer
Fin = Vertical Fin
LE = Leading Edge
TE = Trailing Edge
LG = Landing Gear
" = Inches
mm = millimeters
During construction there will be several occasions where epoxy cleanup will be necessary.Instead of wasting whole paper towels, stack three or four paper towels on top of each other and cut them into small squares. This will conserve paper towels and the little squares are easier to use. For epoxy clean up dampen the squares with denatured alcohol.
Plastic bags filled with lead shot are recommended for building weights. They assume the shape of curved surfaces and apply uniform pressure. Shot can be purchased at sporting goods stores where hunting supplies are sold. #6 shot is recommended.One 25 lb. [11kg] bag costs about twenty dollars.Small, sealable food storage bags can be used to hold the shot.Tape the bags shut for security. Each bag holds about two to three pounds. Twelve to fifteen bags is adequate for this project.
1/64" = .4mm 1/32" = .8mm 1/16" = 1.6mm 3/32" = 2.4mm
1/8" = 3.2mm
5/32" = 4mm 3/16" = 4.8mm
1/4" = 6.4mm 3/8" = 9.5mm 1/2" = 12.7mm 5/8" = 15.9mm 3/4" = 19mm
1" = 25.4mm 2" = 50.8mm 3" = 76.2mm 6" = 152.4mm
12" = 304.8mm 15" = 381mm 18" = 457.2mm 21" = 533.4mm 24" = 609.6mm 30" = 762mm 36" = 914.4mm
METRIC CONVERSION
1" = 25.4mm (conversion factor)
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0" 1" 2" 3" 4" 5" 6"
0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 110 120 130 140 150 160
Inch Scale
Metric Scale

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DIE-CUT DRAWINGS

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DIE-CUT DRAWINGS

PREPARE TO BUILD
1. If you’ve already purchased the retractable landing gear, or as soon as you do, take the air lines out of the package. Unravel the lines and hang them somewhere in your shop.When it’s time to install the lines they’ll be
nice and straight and they’ll be easier to work with. 2. Remove all the parts from the box.Use a ballpoint pen (not a felt-tip pen) to lightly write the name or size on each piece so it can be identified later. Use the
die-cut patterns
on pages 8 & 9 to identify and
mark the die-cut parts before removing them from their die sheets. Many of the parts already have numbers stamped on them, but in some cases the numbers are located beside the part or only on the die drawings in the manual. If a part is difficult to remove from its die sheet, don’t force it out. Instead, cut around the part with a hobby knife and a #11 blade.After removing the parts from their die sheets, lightly sand the edges to remove slivers or die- cutting irregularities. As you proceed, it’s not necessary to save every scrap of wood, but some of the larger pieces of wood should be saved. 3. Separate the parts into groups such as stab, fin, wing, and fuse. Store smaller parts in zipper-top food storage bags.
BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES
BUILDTHE VERTICAL STABILIZER (FIN) ❏1. Unroll the fuselage plan, then re-roll it inside out
so it will lay flat.Cut out the fin plan, then position it over your flat building board and cover it with Great Planes Plan Protector or wax paper so glue will not adhere.
Note: If you plan to build your Arrow with any kind of a
scale lighting system, now is the time to drill or cut any
holes in the ribs necessary to accommodate the wiring.
❏2. Fit the die-cut 3/32"[2.4mm] balsa fin ribs R1
through R6 into the notches of the die-cut 1/8"[3.2mm]
balsa fin trailing edge and the die-cut 1/8"[3.2mm] balsa rudder sub leading edge. Note that all of the
notches are slightly oversize so the parts can fit at an angle.Also note that a portion of the fin trailing edge and rudder sub LE protrude below the assembly, but will be trimmed off later.Make certain the parts are accurately positioned over the plan and hold them to the building board with T-pins.
❏3. Make sure all the jig tabs are fully contacting
the building board, then glue the assembly together.
❏4. Use a bar sander with 80-grit sandpaper to sand a bevel on the leading edge of all the ribs. Do one rib at a time starting with rib R6 at the top. Hold
the rib with your fingers and draw the bar sander down past, resting it against the other ribs to get the correct angle. ❏5. Center the 3/32"x 1/2"x 15"[2.4 x 12.7 x
380mm] balsa fin sub leading edge vertically on the
front of the ribs, then glue it into position.
❏6. Use a razor plane and/or a bar sander to shape
the top (left side) of the sub leading edges and the trailing edge so they are even with the ribs. Note: Make sure none of the T-pins protrude above any of the parts so they won’t catch.
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❏7. Glue the die-cut 3/32”[2.4mm] balsa rudder
rib R1A into position. If necessary, sand R1A to blend with the rest of the structure.
Now it’s time to make the balsa skins for sheeting the
fin and rudder.
❏8. Glue together both sets of die-cut 1/16"[1.6mm]
balsa parts that make up the fin skins. CA could be
used, but aliphatic resin (white glue) is preferred as it allows time for positioning and is easier to sand. Use masking tape and weights to hold the parts together while the glue dries and press down along the glue joint to make sure the seams are flat.
❏9. Cut the two corner pieces and the leading edge
pieces as shown on the plan from a 1/16"x 3"x 30"[1.6 x 75 x 760mm] balsa sheet to complete the skins and glue them into position.
❏10. After the glue dries examine both skins to see
which side will be the right and which side will be the left.Arrange the skins so the best sides will be on the outside. Use 180-grit sandpaper to carefully sand both sides of the skins flat. Note: The insides don’t have to be as “flat”as the outsides—use care not to over thin the skins by sanding too much.
❏11. Carefully cut out the corrugations. A single-
edge razor blade works well until you get to the smaller ones near the top of the skin where a #11 blade will have to be used.
❏12. Make a thin sanding tool by using spray
adhesive to bond a piece of medium-grit sandpaper to a strip of leftover 1/16"[1.6mm] plywood. Use the sanding tool to true the edges of the corrugations. Hold the skin down near the edges of the corrugations with a ruler or something similar so you do not damage the skin while sanding.
❏13. Cut the corrugation filler strips from 1/16"x
1/4"x 30"[1.6 x 6.4 x 760mm] balsa sticks and glue them to the inside of the fin skins. The best way to
align the strips is with a straightedge—start at the top and work your way down.Once a filler strip has been positioned, use medium CA to glue it into position. Using thin CA is not recommended because it may not create a strong enough bond to hold the filler strips to the skin when bending it to the ribs.
Note: Should you decide to build your Arrow without the corrugations, replace the die-cut skins supplied with this kit with soft to medium density 1/16"[1.6mm] balsa sheeting (not supplied).
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❏14. Prepare the die-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] balsa rudder
skins by cutting out the corrugations and gluing on the corrugation fillers the same as the fin skins.
❏15. Remove most of the T-pins holding the fin
framework to the building board, but leave a few of them in R1 and R6 to hold the structure down. Make sure none of the pins will be concealed under the skin after it has been glued into position.
Refer to this photo for the following two steps.
❏16. Test fit the left fin skin to the framework and
see how it lines up. The bottom of the skin should align with the dashed line indicating the bottom of the skin on the plan. After you see how the skin fits, glue it into position with medium or thick CA.
❏17. Glue the left rudder skin into position the
same way.
❏18. Take out any remainingT-pins and remove the
fin/rudder assembly from the building board.
❏19. Trim off the jig tabs with a hobby knife, then use
a razor plane followed by a bar sander with 80-grit sandpaper to trim the leading and trailing edges even with the ribs. Using the ribs in the rudder as a guide, bevel the trailing edge of the left skin to accommodate the right skin as shown in the sketch and on the cross section of the fin drawing on the plan.
❏20. Referring to the plan, cut the hinge blocks
from a 1/2"x 1/2"x 24"[12.7 x 12.7 x 610mm] balsa stick. Trim the blocks so that when in position, they will be 1/16"[1.6mm] below the surface of the ribs to accommodate the 1/16"[1.6mm] balsa corrugation filler strips on the right side of the fin and rudder skins. Glue the hinge blocks into position.
Refer to this photo for steps 22 through 26.
❏21. Test fit, then glue the rudder and fin skin into
position on the right side.Align them the same as was done for the skins on the left side of the assembly.
❏22. Sand the leading edge of the skins even with
the sub leading edge. Trim the bottom of the skins and the spars even with rib R1 and R1A.
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❏23. Cut the fin leading edge from the 1/4"x 3/4"x
30"[6.4 x 19 x 760mm] balsa stick, then glue it into position. Save the remainder of the stick for the rudder leading edge. Sand the top of the fin leading edge even with R6 and sand the sides of the leading edge even with both sides of the fin.
❏24. Use a small razor saw to separate the rudder
from the fin.Sand the fin sheeting and rib stubs even with the fin trailing edge and sand the rudder sheeting and the rib stubs even with the rudder sub leading edge.
❏25. Cut the rudder leading edge from remainder
of the 1/4"x 3/4"[6.4 x 19mm] balsa stick used for the fin leading edge, then glue it into position. Sand the top, bottom and sides of the rudder leading edge even with the rudder, but do not sand the “V” on the leading edge until instructed to do so. FINISH THE FIN AND RUDDER
❏1. Taking accurate measurements, stick T-pins into
the middle of the fin trailing edge near both ends.Place a straightedge against the pins and use a fine-point ballpoint pen to mark a centerline all the way down.
❏2. If you have a Great Planes Slot Machine, use it
to cut the hinge slots where shown on the plan on the centerline you marked. If you do not have a Slot Machine, use a #11 hobby blade to cut the hinge slots. Start by making a small slit. Then, working in small increments, go a little deeper moving the blade back and forth. Note that it’s the back of the blade that does the work.
❏3. Use the same procedure to mark the centerline
and cut the hinge slots in the rudder.
❏4. Cut three 3/4"x 1"[19 x 25mm] hinges from the
CA hinge strip. Snip off the corners so they go in easier. Temporarily join the rudder to the fin with the hinges. Use masking tape to securely hold the rudder to the fin so it will not move.
❏5. Cut the fin and rudder tip from a 1/2"x 1"x
24"[13 x 25 x 610mm] balsa stick, then glue them to the top of the fin and rudder. Be certain to leave an approximately 3/32"[2.4mm] gap between the fin and rudder tips.
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❏6. Use a razor plane and/or a hobby knife followed by a bar sander to shape the fin and rudder tip to match the fin and rudder, but do not round the top until the next step. ❏7. Now go ahead and round the tips of the fin and
rudder by sanding.
❏8. Remove the tape and separate the fin from the
rudder. Use a straightedge and a ballpoint pen to mark lines on both sides of the rudder 1/4"[6mm]
back from the leading edge. Using the lines and the centerline as a guide, shape the leading edge of the rudder to a “V” shape to allow for control throw. Also shape the front of the rudder tip as shown.
❏9. Test fit the rudder to the fin with the hinges.
Move the rudder back and forth to make sure it moves freely. Make any adjustments necessary.
❏10. Use a putty knife or the included 1/16"[1.6mm]
die-cut plywood applicator to apply lightweight balsa filler to partially fill the corrugations. Try to be consistent and fill the corrugations about half-way as shown in the sketch.
❏11. After the filler has dried, sand the surface of the skins and down into the corrugations. Set the fin and rudder aside while you build the stab. BUILDTHE HORIZONTAL STABILIZER (STAB) Don’t forget, this is a one-piece, “flying”
stabilizer and has no elevators. Let’s start by
making the top and bottom stab skins…
❏1. Cut a 1-3/8"[35mm] strip from a 1/16"x 3"x
30"[1.6 x 75 x 760mm] balsa sheet to be used as the trailing edge portion of one of the die-cut 1/16"[1.6mm] balsa stab skins. Use the remaining 1-5/8"[41mm] sheet to make the right and left leading edge portions.
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❏2. Repeat the previous step to make the leading and
trailing edge portions of the other stab skin. Glue the sheets you just cut to the front and back of the stab skins.Reminder: Aliphatic resin is recommended over CA because it will allow time to position the sheets and will be easier to sand after it dries.
❏3. While the glue on the stab skins is drying, make
up the ribs for the stab assembly by gluing a die-cut 1/8"[3.2mm] plywood rib doubler “S2C” to both sides of four die-cut 3/32"[2.4mm] balsa stab ribs S2. Glue one die-cut 1/8"[3.2mm] plywood rib doubler “S2B” to one side of another stab rib S2 (make two of these, and be sure to make a right and a left). Lastly, make two sets of root stab ribs by
gluing together two die-cut 1/8"[3.2mm] plywood stab ribs S1.Note: If you forget which of the doublers “B” are, they are the ones with the larger hole for the brass tubing.
…Back to the stab skins…
❏4. After the glue on the stab skins has dried remove
the masking tape and sand both sides flat and even. Cut the Stab Center Cutout Template from the plan and use it to mark the cutout in the stab skins with a ballpoint pen.Cut and remove the section of sheeting, but do not cut directly on the line—leave some additional material to allow for positioning.
❏5. Cut out the corrugations and true the edges
with your sanding tool. Cut the corrugation fillers from more 1/16"x 1/4"x 30"[1.6 x 6 x 760mm] balsa sticks and glue them to the insides of the stab skins the same as you did for the fin and rudder skins.
❏6. Cut the stabilizer control rod to a length of
6"[150mm] from a 4-40 x 12"[300mm] pushrod by cutting off the threaded end. Discard the threaded end (or keep it for your spare parts bin). Cut the dowel spar to a length of 15-3/4"[400mm] from the 5/16"x 16"[8 x 405mm] hardwood dowel.Use a piece of a paper towel or a tissue dampened with denatured alcohol to clean any residual oil from the control rod. Clean the inside and outside of the 11/32"x 6"[8.7 x 150mm] brass tube and the 3/8"x 1- 1/2"[9.5 x 38mm] brass tube as well.
❏7. Drill 3/32"[2.4mm] holes between the ends of
the die-cut slots in the plywood S1 Ribs to make slots that will accommodate the stabilizer control rod.Also drill 3/32"[2.4mm] holes through the punchmarks through the ribs at the punchmarks in the B doublers.
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❏8. Use 320-grit or 400-grit sandpaper to roughen
the outside of the 11/32"x 6"[8.7 x 150mm] brass
tube and the inside and outside of the 3/8"x 1- 1/2"[9.5 x 38mm] brass tube so glue will adhere.
❏9. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the dowel spar
and tubes together—both tubes should be centered on the dowel. From now on this assembly will be referred to as the stab spar. Note: It may be necessary to sand down the dowel to get it to fit into the 11/32" [8.7mm] brass tub.
❏10. Enlarge the holes in the nylon swivel clevis
with a #40 drill.
❏11. Slide the swivel clevis and two 3/32"[2.4mm]
wheel collars onto the 4-40 control rod. (The set screws will be installed and tightened when finalizing the radio setup after the model has been completed.) Slide the bearings over the stab spar. Fit the ribs on the pushrod and the stab spar.Working over the stab plan, fit the assembly to the die-cut 3/32"[2.4mm] balsa sub leading edge and the die-cut 3/32"[2.4mm] balsa sub trailing edge. Join the rest
of the ribs to the assembly.
❏12. Hold the stab assembly to the building board
withT-pins.Glue the ribs to the sub leading edge and to the sub trailing edge.
❏13. Securely glue the stab spar and the stabilizer
control rod to the ribs.
❏14. Use a razor plane followed by a bar sander to
shape the top of the sub leading and trailing edges even with the tops of the ribs to accommodate the sheeting. Make sure none of the T-pins are in the way.
❏15. Sand the trailing edge of the plywood S1 ribs
to accommodate the balsa stab trailing edge.
❏16. Remove any T-pins from the stabilizer
assembly that will be concealed under the stab skin when you glue it into position. Glue one of the stab skins to the top of the stab. Thick or medium CA could be used, but aliphatic resin is recommended because it will allow more working time for positioning the skin. Use T-pins and weights to securely hold the skin down until the glue dries.
❏17. Remove the stab from the building board.The
same as you did with the vertical stabilizer, trim the bottom of the sub trailing edge and the bottom of the sub leading edge even with the ribs to accommodate the bottom sheeting.
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❏18. Glue the 1/8"x 1/4"x 30"[3.2 x 6.4 x 760mm]
balsa stabilizer trailing edge into position. Cut the stab center filler block from the 1/2"x 1"x 24"[12.7 x 25 x 610mm] balsa stick (first used for the fin and rudder tips). Shape the block to fit between the S1 ribs, but don’t worry about rounding the inside edge at this time. Glue the block into position.
❏19. Shape the stabilizer trailing edge, the stab
center filler block and the top sheeting to match the shape of the ribs.
❏20. Prepare to glue on the bottom stab skin. Test
fit the skin and check the alignment. Make any adjustments where necessary for a good fit.The skin will be glued on with medium or thick CA, so you’ll want to get it positioned correctly and work quickly.
❏21. Apply thick or medium CA to the ribs and
spars and to the trailing edge of the top skin where it contacts the bottom skin. Working quickly, position the bottom skin.Carefully press the skin into position without introducing any twist. Apply pressure to the trailing edge over your flat work surface. This will ensure a straight and true trailing edge. Handle both halves of the stab as though they were two separate pieces—work on pressing down both halves of the skin separately.
❏22. After the CA has hardened, trim the leading
edge and the tips of the skins even with the sub leading edge and the ribs.
❏23. Round the stab center filler block and trim the
sheeting even with the S1 ribs.
❏24. Cut the stabilizer leading edge from a 1/4"x
1/2"x 30"[6.4 x 25 x 760mm] balsa stick, then glue it into position. Shape the leading edge to match the plan and sand it even with the tip ribs and the S1 ribs.
❏25. Cut the StabilizerTipTemplate from the plan and use it to cut out two stabilizer tips from the 1"x 1-1/2"x 15"[25 x 38 x 380mm] balsa stick.
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❏26. Mark a centerline around the tips, then glue
them into position. Using the centerlines as guides, carve and sand the tips to match the stab, then round to a finished shape.
❏27. The same as was done on the fin and rudder
corrugations, get out your putty knife and wood filler and partially fill all of the corrugations on both sides of the stab. Allow to dry, then sand.
BUILD THE WING
MAKE THE WING SKINS ❏1. Cut the wing center panel plan from the wing
plan.Cover the plan with Plan Protector or wax paper and place it over your flat building board.
❏2. Cut four 1/16"x 3"x 30"[1.6 x 75 x 760mm] balsa
sheets into twelve 3"x 10"[75 x 250mm] balsa sheets. Set one of the 3"x 10"[75 x 250mm] sheets in your scrap pile and cut another one of the 3"x 10"[75 x 250mm] sheets into two 1-1/2"x 10"[38 x 250mm] sheets.
❏3. Glue the sheets together as shown in the
previous photo to make a forward and aft center panel skin. Make two of each.
❏4. Sand the skins flat and even.
BUILDTHE CENTER PANEL
❏1. Glue a die-cut 1/8"[3.2mm] plywood rib
doubler 1A to both sides of a die-cut 3/32"[2.4mm] balsa ribW1.Make another assembly the same way.
❏2. Cut the balsa from between the dowel notches
in both rib assemblies.
❏3. Referring to the plan, glue the four die-cut
1/8"[3.2mm] plywood doublers W1B to the opposing sides of the outer two ribs that will go on both ends of the center panel.
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❏4. Use a #11 blade to cut part way through both
sides of the ribs that go on the outer ends of the center panel between the spar notches.
❏5. Glue together both die-cut 1/8"[3.2mm]
plywood center leading edges (CLE).
❏6. Cut the top and bottom spars for the center
panel to a length of 9-3/8"[240mm] from a 1/4"x 3/8"x 36"[6.4 x 9.5 x 910mm] basswood stick.
❏7. Join the ribs to the center leading edge, the die-
cut 1/8"[3.2mm] plywood center trailing edge, the die-cut 1/8"[3.2mm] plywood center spar web and the top and bottom main spars.
❏8. Position the assembly over the plan and hold it
down with weights and a few T-pins stuck into the jig tabs and into the bottom of the ribs where they contact the plan, just aft of the bottom spar. Use thin and medium CA to glue all the parts together. When gluing the outer ribs, use the die-cut 1/8"[3.2mm] plywood dihedral gauge to make certain they are set at the correct angle.
❏9. Mark the center of the hole to be drilled in one
of the 3/8"x 1"x 2-1/16"[9.5 x 25 x 52mm] basswood wing bolt blocks 5/8"[16mm] from the end and 3/8"[10mm] from the front edge. Drill a #7 hole through the block at the mark. Mark and drill the other wing bolt block the same way. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the wing bolt blocks into position.
❏10. After the epoxy hardens, glue leftover
1/8"[3.2mm] balsa over the blocks to support the sheeting around the holes that will be drilled later.
❏11. Remove the weights and carefully sand the
tops of the center leading edges and the center trailing edge even with the tops of the ribs.
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Refer to this photo for the following two steps.
❏12. Both sides of the center panel will be sheeted
in two sections—with the seam centered over the main spars. With the assembly accurately aligned over the plan, start by sheeting the aft section with one of the skins you prepared earlier. The skin should be trimmed so that the aft edge aligns with the trailing edge depicted on the plan and the front edge aligns with the middle of the top spar. Glue the skin into position—aliphatic resin is preferred as it will allow time for alignment. Thick or medium CA could be used, but you’ll have to work quickly.
❏13. Glue the forward sheet into position.
❏14. After the glue has dried, remove the center
panel plan from the building board. Carefully cut the jig tabs from the bottom of the ribs.Sand all the parts even with the ribs and bevel the underside of the trailing edge of the top sheeting to the same angle as the ribs to accommodate the bottom sheeting.
❏15. Using the holes in the wing bolt blocks as a
guide, drill a #7 hole through the top sheeting.
❏16. Drill 1/16"[1.6mm] pilot holes through both
punchmarks in the center leading edge. Enlarge the holes for the wing dowels with a 1/4"[6.4mm] drill.
❏17. Glue pieces of leftover 3/32"[2.4mm] balsa
inside the wing where shown.Cut or drill 1/2"[13mm] holes for the servo wires and air lines.
❏18. Cut the trailing edge support from a 1/8"x
1/4"x 30"[3.2 x 6.4 x 760mm] balsa stick and glue it into position.Bevel the support to match the shape of the bottom of the wing.
❏19. Select the hardest of the remaining 1/16"x 3"x
30"[1.6 x 75 x 760mm] balsa sheets.From this sheet, cut the shear webs as shown on the plan for the front and back of the spars on both ends of the panel. Glue the webs into position.
❏20. Sheet the bottom of the center panel in two
sections the same way you sheeted the top.
❏21. Trim the sheeting and spars even with the ribs
on both ends of the center panel. Sand the sheeting flat and even.
❏22. Remember when you were instructed to cut
part way through the ribs on the ends of the panel? Now is the time to cut the rest of the way through the ribs along the lines and remove the material between the spars.
Now the center panel is complete and may be set
aside while building the outer panels.
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