Top Flite B-25J Mitchell User manual

WARRANTY.....Top Flite Models guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Top Flite’s liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Top Flite reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice. In that Top Flite has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user- assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase. To make a warranty claim send the defective part or item to Hobby Services at the address: Include a letter stating your name, return shipping address, as much contact information as possible (daytime telephone number, fax number, e-mail address), a detailed description of the problem and a photocopy of the purchase receipt. Upon receipt of the package the problem will be evaluated as quickly as possible.
READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE STARTING CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.
Hobby Services
3002 N. Apollo Dr. Suite 1
Champaign IL 61822 USA
Top Flite Models Champaign, IL Telephone [phone], Ext. 5 airsupport@top-flite.com
Entire Contents © Copyright 2007 TOPZ0980 for TOPA0980 V1.0
Wingspan: 88.5 in [2255mm] Wing Area: 1036 sq in [66.8 dm2] Weight: 17- 19 lbs [7710 – 8620g] Wing Loading: 38 – 42 oz/sq ft [115 – 129g/dm2] Length: 71 in [1795mm] Scale: 1/9th (11%) Radio: 8-channel, 13 servos Engine: .70 cu in [11.5cc] four-strokes,
.46 – .50 cu in [7.5 – 8.0cc] two-strokes

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TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION ..................................................... 2 Scale Competition ................................................ 3 Academy of Model Aeronautics............................ 3 IMAA..................................................................... 3 SAFETY PRECAUTIONS ....................................... 3 DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE.............................. 4 Engine Recommendations ................................... 4 Retractable Landing Gear..................................... 4 Radio Equipment .................................................. 4 ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED .......................... 5 Hardware and Accessories................................... 5 Adhesives and Building Supplies..........................5 Optional Supplies and Tools ................................. 5 Covering Tools ...................................................... 5 KIT INSPECTION.................................................... 6 ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS .................... 6 PREPARATION ....................................................... 9 ASSEMBLE THE WING PANELS ........................... 9 Hinge the Flaps and Ailerons ...............................9 Mount the Engines.............................................. 10 Hook Up the Throttle and Install the Fuel Tank...11 Mount the Main Landing Gear ............................ 12 Retract Installation........................................... 12 Fixed Gear Installation..................................... 13 Mount the Fiberglass Nacelle Covers................. 13 Mount the Main Landing Gear Doors (Retracts Only) ................................................ 14 Hook Up the Main Landing Gear Doors .............16 Mount the Cowl................................................... 19 Mount the Replica Engines................................. 22 Hook Up the Flaps and Ailerons......................... 23 ASSEMBLE THE TAIL .......................................... 24 Hinge the Elevators and Rudders....................... 24 Hook Up the Rudders and Elevators ..................25 Mount the Nose Gear .........................................26 Hook Up the Nose Gear Door (Retract Only) .................................................. 29 FINAL ASSEMBLY ............................................... 30 Assemble the Cockpit .........................................30 Hook Up the Air System .....................................31 Complete the Radio Installation.......................... 32 Mount the Inboard Wing Panels..........................33 Mount the Outboard Wing Panels....................... 34
SCALE FEATURES .......................................... 3535 Mount the Nose-Gunner Canopy........................ 37 Install the Nose-Gunner Cabin ...........................38 Mount the Top Turret & Machine Guns................ 38 Finish the Tail-Gunner Cabin .............................. 39 Mount Side Gun Packs & Waist Gun Windows...40 Mount the ADF “Football” Antenna ..................... 41 Mount the Propeller Hubs................................... 41 Apply the Decals................................................. 41 GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY ....................... 41 Balance the Model (C.G.) ................................... 42 Balance the Model Laterally ...............................42 PREFLIGHT .......................................................... 42 Check the Control Directions.............................. 43 Set the Control Throws ....................................... 43 Identify Your Model ............................................. 43 Charge the Batteries........................................... 43 Balance Propellers ............................................. 43 Ground Check..................................................... 43 Range Check...................................................... 44 ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS....................... 44 AMA SAFETY CODE (Excerpts) ......................... 44 CHECK LIST......................................................... 45 FLYING.................................................................. 45 Mount the Wings................................................. 45 Takeoff ................................................................ 46 Flight................................................................... 46 B-25 Engine-Out Flying Procedures................... 46 Single Engine-Out Procedures ........................... 46 Landing............................................................... 47 SERVO EXTENSION CHARTS............................. 48 ENGINE MOUNT TEMPLATES ............................ 51
INTRODUCTION
Thank you for purchasing the Top Flite Gold Edition 1/9th-scale B-25J Mitchell ARF. While no ARF model will provide the level of detail necessary to take “high-static” at premier scale competitions, you’ll still be amazed at the level of detail and the number of scale features included with this model! And we’ve done our best to balance the level of authenticity and detail with the requirements for simplicity that an ARF modeler expects. For example, the main landing gear
doors on the full-size B-25 close both after the gear has retracted and after it has extended (look at photos of a B-25 sitting on the tarmac—notice that the gear doors are closed!). But rather than duplicating the full-size configuration (which would require a larger radio with additional channels, air control valves on every door, additional pushrods, linkages, air lines, sequencers and considerable time, expense and skill), and rather than abandoning functioning doors altogether, we did it the “hard way” back in the shop by taking time to figure out how to incorporate operating, scale-appearing landing gear doors that the average ARF builder could both afford and assemble. The Top Flite B-25 ARF features operating, spring-loaded doors that use mechanical levers to open and close, thus eliminating all the aforementioned paraphernalia that would be required. And while other scale details including the nose- gunner interior, cockpit interior, tail-gunner canopy and machine guns are not exact replicas, these scale features still “get the point across” with their presence and stand-off accuracy. With all this detail also comes the time commitment to put it all together, but in the end we know it will all be worthwhile when you’re executing slow fly-bys straight down the runway with the flaps and gear extended and everybody else at the field standing by watching. The“Gold” B-25 is also a user-friendly model for breaking down for transport and set up. Most modelers will simply remove the outboard wing panels allowing the model to fit easily into a mini van. If it’s still too big, the inboard wing panels and vertical and horizontal stabilizers can also be easily removed with the sturdy building stand supporting the model during the process. For the latest technical updates or manual corrections to this model visit the Top Flite web site at www.top- flite.com. Open the “GOLD EDITION ARFS” link on the left side of the page and click on image of the B-25 that appears. If there is new technical information or changes there will be an “Important! TECH NOTICE” box on the upper left corner of the page. Click on the Tech Notice box to read the info.

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SCALE COMPETITION The scale of this model is 1/9th (or 11%). These figures were derived from comparing the wing span and fuselage length of this model to the wingspan and fuselage length of the full-size. Though the Top Flite B-25J Mitchell is an ARF and may not have the same level of detail as an “all-out” scratch-built competition model, it is a scale model nonetheless and is therefore eligible to compete in the Fun Scale class in AMA competition (we receive many favorable reports of our ARFs in scale competition!). In Fun Scale, the “builder of the model” rule does not apply. To receive the five points for scale documentation, the only proof required that a full size aircraft of this type in this paint/ markings scheme did exist is a single sheet such as a kit box cover from a plastic model, a photo, or a profile painting, etc. If a black-and-white photo is used, other written documentation of color must be provided. Contact the AMA for a rule book with full details. See below for the AMA contact information. If you would like photos of the full-size B-25J for scale documentation, or if you would like to study the photos to add more scale details, photo packs are available from:
Bob’s Aircraft Documentation
3114 Yukon Ave
Costa Mesa, CA 92626
Telephone: [phone]
Fax: [phone]
e-mail: www.bobsairdoc.com
ACADEMY OF MODEL AERONAUTICS If you are not already a member of the AMA, please join! The AMA is the governing body of model aviation and membership provides liability insurance coverage, protects modelers’ rights and interests and is required to fly at most R/C sites.
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302-9252
Tele. [phone]
Fax [phone]
Or via the Internet at: http://www.modelaircraft.org
IMPORTANT!!! Two of the most important things you can do to preserve the radio controlled aircraft hobby are to avoid flying near full-scale aircraft and avoid flying near or over groups of people. IMAA TheTopFlite B-25ARFqualifies asa“giant-scale”model and is therefore eligible to fly in IMAA (International Miniature Aircraft Association) events. The IMAA is an organization that promotes non-competitive flying of giant-scale model aircraft. If you plan on attending an IMAA event refer to the IMAA Safety Code at www. fly-imaa.org under the “Sanctions” heading in their site index. IMAA contact information is also available in Model Aviation, the monthly newsletter magazine from the AMA. The IMAA can also be contacted at the address or telephone number below:
IMAA
205 S. Hilldale Road
Salina, KS 67401
[phone]
PROTECT YOUR MODEL, YOURSELF AND OTHERS. FOLLOW THESE IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTIONS 1. Your Top Flite B-25J Mitchell ARF should not be considered a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working model that functions very much like a full-size airplane. Because of its performance capabilities, the B-25 ARF, if not assembled and operated correctly, could possibly cause injury to yourself or spectators and damage to property. 2. You must assemble the model according to the instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so may result in an unsafe or unflyable model. In a few cases the instructions may differ slightly from the photos. In those instances the written instructions should be considered as correct. 3. You must take time to build straight, true and strong. 4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in good condition and correctly sized engine and components as specified in this instruction manual. All components must be correctly installed so that the model operates correctly on the ground and in the air.You must check the operation of the model and all components before every flight. 5. If you are not an experienced pilot or have not flown this type of model before, we recommend that you get the assistance of an experienced pilot in your R/C club for your first flights. If you’re not a member of a club, your local hobby shop has information about clubs in your area whose membership includes experienced pilots. 6. While this kit has been flight tested to exceed normal use, if the plane will be used for extremely high stress flying, or if engines larger than ones in the recommended range are used, the modeler is responsible for taking steps to reinforce the high stress points and/or substituting hardware more suitable for the increased stress.

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9. WARNING: Some of the parts in this kit are made of fiberglass, the fibers of which may cause eye, skin and respiratory tract irritation. Never blow into one of these parts to remove fiberglass dust, as the dust will blow back into your eyes. Always wear safety goggles, a particle mask and rubber gloves when grinding, drilling and sanding fiberglass parts. Vacuum the parts and the work area thoroughly after working with fiberglass parts.
We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a top quality, thoroughly tested kit and instructions, but ultimately the quality and flyability of your finished model depends on how you build it; therefore, we cannot in any way guarantee the performance of your completed model, and no representations are expressed or implied as to the performance or safety of your completed model.
Remember: Take your time and follow the instructions to end up with a well-built model that is straight and true.
DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE
This is a partial list of items required to finish this model that may require planning or decision making before starting assembly.Order numbers are provided in parentheses. ENGINE RECOMMENDATIONS As specified on the front cover of this instruction manual, the Top Flite B-25J ARF is intended for twin .70 four- strokes or .46-.50 two-strokes. There isn’t much more that can be said other than it is unnecessary (as well as inadvisable) to overpower this model with larger engines. Engines in the specified range will provide more than enough thrust to fly this model in a scale-like manner with plenty of extra power to perform evasive maneuvers if the situation arises. Bottom line is with two-stroke .46’s or four-stroke .70’s you’ll find yourself cruising around at half-throttle most of the time.
RETRACTABLE LANDING GEAR Your B-25J Mitchell ARF may be assembled with the included fixed landing gear or retractable landing gear. If fixed landing gear is used, no additional items will be needed to install the gear. If installing retracts, this model is designed for Robart pneumatic retracts. Following is the complete list of items required to install the Robart retracts: ❏Robart #TFB25 Top Flite B-25J ARF pneumatic
retractable main landing gear (ROBQ1624)
❏Robart #157VRX Large-Scale Deluxe Air Control
Kit—includes pressure vessel, air line tubing, variable-rate air valve, T-fittings (ROBQ2305)
❏#190 Air Line Quick Disconnects (ROBQ2395) ❏Standard size servo to operate air control valve Additionally, a hobby can of compressed air such as Hobbico Duster™(HCAR5500) will be helpful for cycling the retracts during assembly and setup without having to connect the gear to the air control valve, filler and air tank before it is ready. An air pump will also be required for filling the on- board air tank when you get to the field and it’s time to fly. The Robart Hand Pump & Gauge (ROBQ2363) could be used, but will require considerable time (and effort!) to fill the tank. Instead, we recommend an electric hobby air compressor (with a pressure gauge). What we use in our R&D shop is simply a small 12V
bicycle air compressor. The power cord may have to be converted from a cigarette lighter connector to alligator clips or something that can be connected to your 12V battery. Connect Robart’s air filler to the compressor with a length of Robart air line. RADIO EQUIPMENT If flying the B-25 with fixed landing gear seven channels will be required; one channel for the ailerons, one for elevator, one for each engine, one for the rudder, one for the flaps and one channel for the nose steering servo. The engines could be linked with a Y-harness, but it is recommended to link the throttles electronically via mixing in the transmitter. Then, the throttles can be “decoupled” using a switch on the transmitter for starting and tuning the engines individually. It is also recommended to link the rudder servos and nose steering servo electronically through mixing in your transmitter so the nose steering servo can be trimmed separately from the rudders. If installing retractable landing gear eight channels will be required, with an additional standard servo to operate the air control valve. Regarding servos, the ailerons, flaps, nose steering and air control valve may all be operated with standard servos (such as Futaba S3003—FUTM0031). A stronger ball bearing servo with no less than 50 oz. in. of torque (such as the Futaba 9001—FUTM0075) should be used on the elevator. Two mini servos with a torque rating of at least 35 oz.-in. (such as Futaba S3115—FUTM0415) are required on the rudders. Note: Keep in mind that the standard servo recommendations for the flaps and ailerons are the minimums. Higher-torque, ball bearing servos could be used for more flight precision. The following servo extensions andY-harnesses were also used in this model. See the diagrams on pages 48-49 that shows where all the extensions are used.

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❏(4) 6" [150mm] extensions (HCAM2701 for Futaba) ❏(2) 12" [300mm] extensions (HCAM2711 for Futaba) ❏(5) 24" [600mm] extensions (HCAM2721 for Futaba) ❏(1) 36" [910mm] extension (HCAM2726 for Futaba) ❏(5) Y-harnesses (HCAM2751 for Futaba)
A minimum 2,000mAh receiver battery could be used, but you will have to closely monitor the battery’s capacity and voltage to avoid draining the battery too far. A battery larger than 2,000mAh would be more suitable and provide more flight time between charges. Following are two suitable battery packs:
❏HydriMax™Ultra 4.8V 4,200 mAh sub C NiMH
receiver battery w/Futaba connector (HCAM6335)
❏HydriMax Ultra 4.8V 2,000 mAh AA NiMH receiver
battery w/Futaba connector (HCAM6321)
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED
HARDWARE AND ACCESSORIES In addition to the items listed in the “Decisions You Must Make” section, following is the list of hardware and accessories required to finish the B-25. Order numbers are provided in parentheses. ❏1/4" R/C Foam Rubber (HCAQ1000) ❏3' [900mm] Standard Silicone Fuel
Tubing (GPMQ4131)
❏Ernst #124 Charge Receptacle ❏Stick-on Segmented Lead Weights (GPMQ4485) ❏Propellers (and spares) suitable for your engines ADHESIVES AND BUILDING SUPPLIES In addition to common hobby tools and household tools, this is the “short list” of the most important items required to build the B-25 ARF. Great Planes Pro™CA and Epoxy glue are recommended.
Foremost, a Great Planes Standard 3/32" BallWrench (GPMR8002) and a Great Planes Standard .050" Ball Wrench (GPMR8000) are virtual necessities for
assembling this model. These are long-handle Allen wrenches that will be invaluable for mounting the cowls and other the scale details.
❏1 oz. [30g] Thin Pro CA (GPMR6002) ❏1 oz. [30g] Medium Pro CA+ (GPMR6008) ❏CA Applicator Tips (HCAR3780) ❏CA Activator 2 oz. [57g] Spray Bottle (GPMR6035),
or 4 oz. [113g] Aerosol (GPMR634)
❏Pro 30-Minute Epoxy (GPMR6047) ❏MilledFiberglass (GPMR6165) -OR-Microballoons
(TOPR1090)
❏Threadlocker Thread Locking Cement (GPMR6060) ❏#1 Hobby Knife (HCAR0105) ❏#11 Blades (5-pack, HCAR0211) ❏#11 Blades (100-pack, HCAR0311) ❏Drill Bits:1/16"[1.6mm], 5/64"[2mm], 3/32"[2.4mm],
7/64" [2.8mm], 1/8" [3.2mm], 5/32" [4mm], #29 Drill and 4-40 Tap (or Great Planes 4-40 Tap and Drill Set (GPMR8101)
❏Tap handle (GPMR8120) ❏Soldering Iron or Hobby Heat™Micro Torch II
(HCAR0755)
❏Silver Solder w/Flux (GPMR8070) ❏Denatured Alcohol for Epoxy Cleanup ❏Plastic-Compatible Oil for Hinge Pins ❏Rotary Tool and Cutting Bits (See Page 20) ❏Rotary Tool Reinforced Cut-Off Wheel (GPMR8200) ❏Fine-point felt-tip pen (Top Flite®Panel Line Pen—
TOPQ2510)
❏Black Paint for Cockpit Interior ❏Medium-Grit (220 – 320-Grit) Sandpaper OPTIONAL SUPPLIES AND TOOLS Here is a list of optional tools that are also mentioned in the manual. ❏Epoxy Brushes (6, GPMR8060) ❏Mixing Sticks (50, GPMR8055) ❏Mixing Cups (GPMR8056) ❏CA Debonder (GPMR6039) ❏Dead Center™Engine Mount Hole Locator
(GPMR8130)
❏Curved-Tip Canopy Scissors for trimming plastic
parts (HCAR0667)
❏Non-Elastic String for stab alignment (such as
K&S #801 Kevlar thread or fishing Kevlar thread)
❏9/32" [7mm] O.D. K+S brass tube for fueling line
(See page 22)
❏Masking tape (TOPR8018) ❏3M 77 Spray Adhesive (MMMR1990) ❏AccuThrow Deflection Gauge (GPMR2405) ❏CG Machine™(GPMR2400) ❏Laser Incidence Meter (GPMR4020) ❏Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer (TOPQ5700) COVERING TOOLS A covering iron will be required for tightening the covering on the model after it is removed from the box. Following are the covering tools recommended: ❏21ST Century®Sealing Iron (COVR2700) ❏21ST Century Iron Cover (COVR2702) ❏21ST Century Trim Seal Iron (COVR2750)
The Top Flite B-25 ARF is factory covered with Top Flite MonoKote film. Should repairs ever be required, following is a list of colors used on this model and order numbers for 6' [1.8m] rolls. (At some hobby shops MonoKote can also be purchased by the foot.) Flat Olive Drab (TOPQ0510) Flat Dove Gray (TOPQ0511) Flat Black (TOPQ0508) White (TOPQ0204)
Note: The stabilizer and wing incidences and engine thrust angles have been factory-built into the B-25. However, some technically-minded modelers may wish to check these measurements anyway. To view this information, visit the web site at www.top-flite.com and click on “Technical Data.” Due to manufacturing tolerances which will have little or no effect on the way the model will fly, there may be slight deviations between your model and the published values.

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4
38
37
5
33
34
35
11
32
2
6
3
36
8
31 7
10
9
25
20
29
19
17
21
22
23 15
14
1
18
27
28
24
26
25 9
10
7
31
2
6
3
36
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35
34
33
5
11
13
12
32
16
30

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KIT INSPECTION
Before starting to build, inspect the parts to make sure they are of acceptable quality. If any parts are missing or are not of acceptable quality, or if you need assistance with assembly, contact Product Support. When reporting defective or missing parts, use the part names exactly as they are written in the Kit Contents list on this page.
Top Flite Product Support:
3002 N Apollo Drive Suite 1
Champaign, IL 61822
Telephone: [phone]
Fax: [phone]
E-mail: airsupport@top-flite.com
KIT CONTENTS 1. Fuselage 2. R&L inboard wing panels, inboard flaps, flap
servo hatches
3. R&L outboard wing panels, outboard flaps, ailerons,
flap and aileron servo hatches
4. Horizontal stabilizer, elevators, rudder servo hatches 5. R&L vertical stabilizer, rudders 6. R&L fiberglass nacelle covers 7. Fiberglass engine cowls 8. R&L ply/balsa/hardwood nacelle assembly 9. R&L carburetor intakes 10. Replica engines 11. Main landing gear doors 12. Fiberglass tail-gunner cabin 13. Tail-gunner canopy 14. Nose-gunner canopy bottom 15. Nose-gunner window 16. Cockpit canopy 17. Nose-gunner cabin floor, ammo tray, kneeling
pad, ammo boxes and tops (4)
18. Nose-gunner cabin back 19. Tail-gunner cabin bulkhead, armor plate,
mounting bracket
20. Pilot/co-pilot seat backs 21. Fiberglass ADF “football” antenna w/magnets
22. Top turret tandem machine guns 23. Nose-gunner machine gun 24. Top machine gun turret canopy 25. R&L side gun packs 26. Nose gear door 27. Nose gear wire 28. 2-5/8" [68mm] nose wheel 29. (7) 6-1/8" [155mm] machine gun barrels (1-nose
gun, 2-top turret, 4-external gun packs, (2) 4-7/8" [125mm] waist machine gun barrels, (2) 4-7/8" [125mm] tail-gunner machine gun barrels w/4-40 threaded inserts
30. Cockpit floor (painted flat black) 31. R&L oil cooler air scoops 32. R&L waist gun windows 33. Molded plastic fixed main landing gear blocks 34. R & L main landing gear wires 35. (2) 3-7/8" [98mm] main wheels 36. (2) 420cc Fuel tanks w/hardware 37. 30 x 440mm center main wing tube (1), 10 x
305mm forward and aft main wing tubes (2, one end threaded w/nylon inserts), 22 x 295mm outer panel wing tubes (2), 10 x 150mm outer panel wing tubes (2, one end threaded w/nylon inserts)
38. Elevator joiner wire ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS To order replacement parts for the Top Flite B-25J Mitchell ARF, use the order numbers in the Replacement Parts List that follows. Replacement parts are available only as listed. Not all parts are available separately (an aileron cannot be purchased separately, but is only available with the wing kit). Replacement parts are not available from Product Support, but can be purchased from hobby shops or mail order/Internet order firms. Hardware items (screws, nuts, bolts) are also available from these outlets. If you need assistance locating a dealer to purchase parts, visit www.top-flite.com and click on “Where to Buy.” If this kit is missing parts, contact Product Support.
REPLACEMENT PARTS LIST Order Number Description How to purchase Missing Pieces.................. Contact Product Support Instruction Manual ............ Contact Product Support Full-Size Plans..................................... Not Available Contact your hobby supplier to purchase these items: TOPA1700 Wing Set TOPA1701 Fuselage Set TOPA1702 Tail Set (Fins and Stabilizers) TOPA1703 Left Engine Nacelle Assembly TOPA1704 Right Engine Nacelle Assembly TOPA1706 Cowl TOPA1707 Dummy Engine TOPA1708 Tail-gunner Cabin TOPA1709 Gunner Windows TOPA1710 Wing Tubes TOPA1711 Landing Gear Set TOPA1712 Landing Gear Doors (All) TOPA1713 Cockpit Windscreen TOPA1714 Cockpit Interior TOPA1715 Nose-Gunner Window Assembly TOPA1716 Nose-Gunner Cabin TOPA1717 Machine Gun Set (All) TOPA1718 Fuel Tank TOPA1719 Propeller Hub TOPA1720 Decal Set TOPA1721 Building Stand

NOSE MACHINE GUN
NOSE-GUNNER CANOPY
TOP TURRET
NACELLE COVER
ADF
“FOOTBALL” ANTENNA
NOSE-GUNNER
CANOPY BOTTOM
COCKPIT/COCKPIT CANOPY
OIL COOLER
AIR SCOOP
INBOARD
WING PANEL
OUTBOARD
WING PANEL
TAIL-GUNNER CABIN
TAIL-GUNNER CANOPY
TAIL GUNS
SIDE GUN PACKS
CARBURETOR INTAKE
WAIST GUN WINDOW/WAIST GUN
THESE ARE THE NAMES OF SOME OF THE SCALE PARTS
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PREPARATION
PREPARE THE COVERING ❏Take time now to thoroughly seal the covering
to the airframe. Areas of covering that aren’t bonded to the wood underneath—even if you don’t see any wrinkles now—may loosen and form wrinkles later. The best way to seal down and tighten all the covering is to use a covering iron with a protective covering sock to go over the entire model. Push down on the iron to bond the covering to the wood. If the covering bubbles you may be using too much heat or leaving the iron in one position too long. In some areas, where the sheeting is soft and there is no supporting structure underneath, the sheeting may bend inward making it difficult to remove the wrinkles in those areas. If this happens, use less pressure on the iron or don’t press down at all. Note: This procedure takes time. If you don’t feel like going over the entire model all at once, start with the inboard wing panels first and do the rest of the parts as you need them.
ASSEMBLE THE WING PANELS
HINGE THE FLAPS AND AILERONS
During construction there will be several occasions where epoxy cleanup will be necessary. Instead of wasting whole paper towels, stack three or four paper towels on top of each other and cut them into small squares.This will conserve paper towels and the little squares are easier to use than whole paper towels. For epoxy clean up dampen the squares with denatured alcohol.
❏1. Test fit both inboard flaps to the inboard wing panels with the large pivot point hinges. Make sure the flaps fit well and pivot smoothly.
❏2. Take out the hinges. Add a small drop of plastic- compatible oil or a small dab of petroleum jelly to the pivot point of each hinge. Work the oil into each hinge by pivoting it back and forth a few times. ❏3. Mix approximately 1/4 oz. [5cc] of 30-minute
epoxy. Use a piece of wire to apply epoxy into the hinge holes in both inboard wing panels and inboard flaps.
❏4. Wipe off any excess epoxy from the outside of all the hinge holes (using your paper towel squares). One at a time, apply a thin coating of epoxy to one

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side of each hinge. Then, insert the hinges into the wing. When all the hinges are in, working quickly, coat the other end of the hinges with epoxy. Then, join both flaps. Do your best to wipe away any excess epoxy. Move the flaps up and down several times to align all the hinges. Set the wing panels aside and allow the epoxy to harden. ❏6.Join the outboard flaps and ailerons to the outboard
wing panels the same way using fresh batches of epoxy. Note that the ailerons use small hinges.
❏7. After the epoxy on all the hinges has hardened,
move the flaps and ailerons up and down several times to get them moving smoothly and easily. We’ll install the servos and hook up the flaps and ailerons later.
MOUNT THE ENGINES ❏1. Use medium CA or epoxy to glue two 8 x 30mm
grooved nylon alignment pegs into the holes in each engine nacelle. Be certain the peg indicated protrudes above the base of the nacelle approximately 3/4" [19mm].
❏❏2. After the epoxy from the previous step has hardened, use four 1/4-20 x 2" [50mm] nylon bolts (indicated by the arrows in the photo) to mount the left engine nacelle to the bottom of the left inboard wing panel. ❏❏3. Read the note following this step. Then, cut out the left Engine Mounting Template (since we’re doing the left nacelle first) from the back of the manual for the type of engine you will be using—two-stroke or four-stroke. Use tape or spray adhesive to hold the template to the firewall. Then use a sharpened piece of wire or a large T-pin to mark the center of the holes in the template into the firewall.
Note: The four-stroke template is for the O.S. Max .70 Surpass and the two-stroke template is for an O.S. Max .40 or .50 two-stroke. Since the engine mounts are adjustable, they should fit other engines in the size range, but if you are using engines different than O.S. the positioning of the mounts may have to be rotated slightly to align the muffler with the muffler cutout in the fiberglass nacelle cover. If this is the case, you’ll have to mount your engine to the mount before marking the holes in the firewall. Then, place the nacelle cover over the nacelle on the wing panel and position the mount (with the engine) so the muffler fits in the muffler cutout. ❏❏4. Once the engine mount holes have been marked, drill 5/32" [4mm] holes through the firewall at each mark. Remove the template. Push 4-40 blind nuts into the holes in the back of the firewall—if necessary, trim away any plywood that interferes with the blind nuts.

11
❏❏5. Loosely mount the engine mount to the firewall
with 4-40 x 3/4" [19mm] socket-head cap screws (SHCS) and #4 flat washers. Adjust the mount to fit your engine.Tighten the screws to pull the blind nuts all the way into the back of the firewall. Temporarily clamp the engine to the mount so the front of the drive washer will be 5" [127mm] from firewall. Use a Dead Center™
Engine Mount Hole Locator (GPMR8130) or another method to mark the holes in the mount for the engine mounting screws. NOTE: The 3/4" [19mm] screws holding the mount to the firewall are intentionally short so they do not cut into the front of the fuel tank. Later, when mounting the engine for the final time, you will be instructed to add threadlocker to the threads of the screws so they do not come loose. ❏❏6. Remove the engine from the mount and take
the mount off the firewall. Add a few drops of thin CA to the edges of the blind nuts in the back of the firewall so they won’t come out.
❏❏7. Drill #29 holes at the marks you made in the
engine mount halves for mounting the engine. Tap 4- 40 threads into the holes. Remount the mount to the firewall and mount the engine to the mount with four 4-40 x 3/4" [19mm] SHCS, #4 lock washers and #4 flat washers.
❏8. Mount the other engine to the right nacelle the
sameway.Makesure youuse the rightengine mounting template for marking the holes in the firewall.
HOOK UP THE THROTTLE AND INSTALL THE FUEL TANK Refer to this photo while hooking up the throttle. The throttle servo may be mounted in either of two locations depending on the location of the carburetor arm on your engine. For most two-stroke engines, it will be easiest to mount the throttle servo in the lower location (the location in the bottom of the nacelle next to the landing gear mount). For some four-stroke engines (such as the O.S. Max .70 illustrated in this manual), it will be easiest to mount the throttle in the upper location (as shown in the photo). If using the O.S. Max .70, the carburetor will also have to be reversed to position the carburetor arm on the top. If using the O.S. .70, remove the engine, reverse the carburetor and carb arm, and then remount the engine. However you decide to hook up the throttle, make certain the pushrod will not interfere with the fuel tank when it is in position later (you could temporarily fit the fuel tank while working on the throttle). ❏❏1. Center the throttle servo by temporarily connecting it to the receiver with a battery and turning on the radio with the throttle trim on the transmitter centered. Cut off the unused servo arms so there is one arm remaining.
6" [150 mm]
SERVO EXTENSION
❏❏2. Connect a 6" [150mm] servo extension to the throttle servo. (There are diagrams on pages 48-49 that show all the servo extensions that were used.) Cut a piece of the 3/8" x 3" [10 x 75mm] black heat shrink tubing in half and fit it over the connection between the servo wire and the extension. Carefully shrink the tubing with heat from a heat gun or a lighter. ❏❏3. Place the throttle servo in the mounting location you will be using—if using the upper throttle servo mounting location shown, the nacelle will have to be removed from the wing. Use the mounting holes in the servo as a guide to drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes for the servo mounting screws that came with the servo. Temporarily mount the servo with the screws. Then, remove the screws and servo. Add a few drops of thin CA to each screw hole, allow to harden, and then remount the servo. ❏❏4. Hook up throttle using a 2-56 x 17-1/2" [445mm] pushrod and a nylon clevis on the servo

12
end and a brass screw-lock connector with a nylon retainer and a 4-40 x 1/8" [3mm] socket-head cap screw (SHCS) on the carburetor arm. Cut a slot in the firewall for the throttle pushrod. Bend the pushrod as necessary to connect to the carburetor arm. ❏❏6. For installing the fuel tank, mounting the
fiberglass nacelle cover and mounting the landing gear, it will be easier to have the engine out of the way. Remove the engine mount from the firewall and set the engine aside.
❏❏7. Assemble both fuel tanks—a three-line setup
is recommended—one for the vent/pressure line going to the muffler, one for fuel pickup to the carburetor and a third line for fueling/defueling. This setup will allow fueling and defueling without having to disconnect any lines from the carburetor and without having to turn the model upside-down. To set up the fuel tank this way, cut two of the aluminum tubes to a length of 1-3/8" [35mm] and leave the other, longer tube as-is. Assemble the stopper assembly with the aluminum tubes, bend the longer vent tube upward so it will be at the top of the tank, and then cut the silicone lines to the correct length so the clunks will not contact the rear of the tank. Connect the lines to the tubes in the stopper and fit the stopper into the tank and tighten the screw. Make sure the clunks do not contact the rear of the tank; otherwise, they could get stuck.
❏❏8. Mount the left nacelle to the wing with the nylon bolts. Fit the fuel tank into the nacelle.Then, install and glue two 3/8" x 3-1/16" [10 x 78mm] plywood fuel tank sticks from the laser-cut plywood sheet into the slots to hold the fuel tank in position. Note: Even though fuel lines appear in a few of the following photos, there’s no need to connect them until later after the cowl has been mounted—the manual will instruct you later. ❏9. Return to step 1 and mount the engine, hook up the throttle and install the fuel tank in the right nacelle the same way. MOUNT THE MAIN LANDING GEAR RETRACT INSTALLATION (If not mounting retracts, skip to “Fixed Gear Installation” on the next page.) Same as we’ve been doing so far, start with the left, inboard wing panel. ❏❏1. Determine which color of air line you will be using for the “up” line and which color you will be using for the “down” line—the up line connects to the fitting on the back end of the air cylinder and the down line connects to the fitting on the front of the cylinder that comes out of the side. Cut the up line to a length of 21" [530mm] and cut the down line to a length of 18" [460mm].
❏❏2. Connect the lines to the air cylinder. Rotate the fitting on the down line as shown so it will be easier to fit the gear between the rails. ❏ ❏ 3. Install the retract and guide the air lines through the hole in the bottom of the panel, past the flap servo hatch and out root end of the panel—note that the up line goes through the hole in the back of the nacelle first.

13
❏ ❏ 4. Holding the retract centered in the rails with
the strut retracted so it will be out of the way, drill four 7/64" [2.8mm] holes for the mounting screws. Mount the retract with four #6 x 1/2" [13mm] Phillips screws.
❏ ❏ 5. Use a rotary tool with a fiber-reinforced cutoff
wheel to cut the one of the main landing gear axles that came with the retracts to the correct length. File a flat spot on the axle for the set screw that mounts the axle to the strut. Mount the wheel with a drop of threadlocker on the set screw. Add a drop of oil to both sides of the wheel at the strut and the axle.
❏6. Mount the other retract to the right inboard wing
panel the same way. FIXED GEAR INSTALLATION
❏❏1. Assemble one of the landing gear mounts
by using eight 3 x 12mm flat-head Phillips screws to mount an aluminum mounting bracket to each side of one of the molded plastic main landing gear blocks.
Refer to this photo while mounting the landing gear.
❏❏2. Center the landing gear mount on the mounting rails. Then, drill four 7/64" [2.8mm] holes for the mounting screws. Mount the landing gear mount with four #6 x 1/2" [13mm] Phillips screws. ❏❏3. Mount the left, main landing gear wire into the landing gear mount using two nylon straps and four #4 x 1/2" [13mm] screws. Mount one of the main wheels to the landing gear wire with two 5mm wheel collars and 6-32 set screws with threadlocker on the threads. ❏4. Mount the other landing gear to the right inboard wing panel the same way. Add a drop of oil to both sides of the wheels where they contact the collars.
MOUNT THE FIBERGLASS NACELLE COVERS ❏❏1. If you haven’t done so already, remove the left engine from the engine mount so the nacelle cover will fit over the nacelle. Place the left fiberglass nacelle cover over the nacelle on the wing. Use a pushrod sharpened on the end or a Dead Center™Engine Mount Hole Locator to mark the location of the three mounting screws for the nacelle cover into the bottom of the wing. ❏❏2. Remove the nacelle cover. Drill 3/32" [2.4mm] holes into the wing at the marks. Enlarge the holes in the plywood mounting tabs in the nacelle cover only with a 1/8" [3.2mm] drill. Use a long #1 Phillips screwdriver to temporarily mount the nacelle cover to the wing with four #4 x 5/8" [16mm] Phillips screws, #4 flat washers and #4 lock washers. ❏❏3. Remove the nacelle cover. Add a few drops of thin CA to each of the screw holes for the nacelle cover mounting screws. Allow the CA to harden before mounting the nacelle cover back to the wing.

14
❏❏4. Re-mount the nacelle cover to the wing. If you’ve mounted retracts, read the Hot Tip that follows. Then, cycle the gear a few times to make sure everything works. (If necessary, use a sanding drum to enlarge the half-round notch at the front of the opening in the nacelle cover.)
The landing gear can be easily cycled with a can of compressed air such as a Hobbico Duster. Cut two 1" [25mm] pieces from the tube that comes with the can. Fit the tubes into the ends of both air lines coming from the wing that are connected to the gear. Connect one tube to the Duster to extend the gear and connect the other tube to retract the gear.
❏5. Mount the right nacelle cover the same way.
MOUNT THE MAIN LANDING GEAR DOORS (FOR RETRACTS ONLY) If using fixed landing gear, skip to “Mount the Cowl” on page 19. ❏❏1. Remove the nacelle covers from the wing panels. ❏❏2. Look at the photos on page 15 to see where the door hinges are mounted. Use coarse sandpaper to roughen the inside of the left nacelle cover where the landing gear door hinges will go. ❏❏3. Use a hobby knife to scrape away the black paint from the recesses inside one set of fiberglass main landing gear doors so the glue will adhere for the door hinges. ❏❏4. Place the doors on the left nacelle cover. Use masking tape to tape the doors together, and then tape them to the nacelle cover.
1/8"
[3mm]
BALL LINKS FOR REAR DOOR HINGES
❏❏5. Use a single-edge razor blade to cut 1/8" [3mm] off two nylon ball links—do your best to cut the ends square. Drill the holes for the screw in the ball links the rest of the way through with a 5/64" [2mm] drill bit.
(These are the hinges that are glued onto the gear doors.)
DOOR HINGES
TYPE A TYPE B
❏❏6. Mount one of the ball links you just cut off to a “TYPE A” door hinge and mount the other ball link you just cut off to a “TYPE B” door hinge with a

15
2-56 x 3/8" [9.5mm] screw, #2 lock washer and #2 flat washer. These hinges will go on the aft end of the gear doors.
1/16"
[1.5mm]
BALL LINKS FOR FRONT DOOR HINGES
❏❏7. Cut 1/16" [1.5mm] from two more nylon ball
links. Mount each ball link to another TYPE A and TYPE B door hinge. These door hinges will be for the front of the gear doors.
❏❏8. Prepare two “TYPE A” nacelle hinges and
two “TYPE B” nacelle hinges by mounting an 0-80 ball link ball in the bottom hole of each hinge with an 0-80 nut and a drop of threadlocker on the threads.
❏❏9. Snap the ball link balls of the nacelle hinges onto the ball links on the door hinges as shown.
As best as you can, get the bases of the hinge
s
to lay flat on the door and on the nacelle cover. Make sure the glue press up and fills the holes of the mounts.
NACELLE COVER
GEAR DOOR
❏❏10. Use coarse sandpaper to roughen the bottom
of each hinge base so glue will adhere.Test fit the hinge assemblies to the doors and nacelles—each hinge assembly should be in the location and orientation shown. If necessary, adjust the length of any of the ball links by cutting them shorter so the hinges will rest flat, or nearly flat, on the doors and nacelle.
❏❏11. Use epoxy mixed with milled fiberglass or micro balloons to glue each door hinge to the doors. After the epoxy has hardened glue each nacelle hinge to the nacelle. ❏❏12. After the epoxy on the door hinges has hardened, remove the masking tape and open the doors. ❏13. Hinge the doors to the other nacelle the same way.

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HOOK UP THE MAIN LANDING GEAR DOORS ❏❏1. Glue a 1/8" x 1/2" [3 x 15mm] hardwood
dowel lever stop into one of the lever mounts as shown. The end of the stop should be flush with the other side of the mount. Use this photo for the next 8 steps.
❏❏2. Hold the lever mount on the back of the
nacelle as shown—the outer edge of the mount should be even with the side of the nacelle and the top of the mount should be even with the bottom edge of the nacelle (where indicated by the arrows). Using the small hole in the right side of the lever mount as a guide, drill a 1/16" [1.6mm] hole into the nacelle. Mount the lever mount to the nacelle with a #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] button-head Allen screw.
❏❏3. Use the other hole in the lever mount as a guide to drill a 3/32" [2.4mm] hole into the nacelle for the #4 screw that will hold in the bellcrank. ❏❏4. Remove the lever mount. Temporarily thread a #4 x 5/8" [16mm] Phillips screw into the larger hole you drilled. Remove the screw. Add a few drops of thin CA to both screw holes and allow to harden. ❏❏5. Use medium CA to glue a 5mm I.D. x 12mm O.D. thin, plastic washer to the front surface of the plywood bellcrank lever. (Six washers are included in the kit—two are for the levers on the main landing gear doors, one is for the lever on the nose landing gear and three are left over for spares.) The easiest way to glue on the washer is to pick it up with a hobby knife, apply a thin film of thin CA to it and place it on the lever centered over the hole. Then turn the lever over and press down over a piece of plastic film (from a sandwich bag or leftover MonoKote backing) or wax paper.
❏❏6. Remount the lever mount to the nacelle with the #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] button-head screw. Fit a brass bushing into the plywood bellcrank lever as shown. Mount the bellcrank lever to the lever mount and the nacelle with the #4 x 5/8" [16mm] screw. Tighten the screw as much as possible without causing the lever to bind.
3/8"
[10mm]
3/8"
[10mm]
❏❏7. Bend a hook on each end of the spring where shown and cut off the excess wire. Connect the spring to the bellcrank lever and the lever mount as shown— there should be just enough tension in the spring to pull the lever to the lever stop. Later, if necessary, the spring tension can be adjusted by using another notch in the lever mount. Move the bellcrank up and down to make sure it moves smoothly with a small amount of resistance from the spring. Make any adjustments necessary. ❏❏8. Mount the nacelle cover with the doors attached to the wing panel. Note: If the doors ever require removal for repairs/servicing, do not pop off the ball links. Instead, unscrew the 2-56 screws from the ball links.
If necessary, trim
the lever here.
❏❏9. Test the “action” of the landing gear and the lever mechanism by operating the system with

17
compressed air. Make sure the gear locks at both ends—up and down. It may be necessary to slightly trim the lever to allow the landing gear strut to move freely. If necessary, remove the lever, trim, reinstall and test. ❏❏10. Use coarse sandpaper to roughen the
mounting base of two small nylon control horns (shown in the photo to the right).
3/8"
[10mm]
2-1/2"
[65mm]
INBOARD DOOR PUSHROD
❏❏11.Make an inboard door pushrod first by cutting
part of the threaded end and part of the unthreaded end of a 4" [100mm] pushrod as shown above.
INBOARD DOOR PUSHROD
❏❏12. Use the sketch as a template to bend the
pushrod as shown.
❏❏13.The same as was done on the ball links for the door hinges, cut 1/8" [3mm] from the end of two nylon clevises. Make the outboard door pushrod using the short clevises and complete the inboard pushrod using another regular clevis and the hardware shown. Do not install the nylon retainer on the brass screw- lock pushrod connector until instructed to do so later.
❏❏14. Connect the outboard pushrod to the bellcrank lever. Use medium CA to glue the control horn to the door in alignment with the lever. Retract and extend the gear by hand, adjusting the length of the pushrod so the door will close when the gear is retracted. Retract and extend the gear with air pressure, making sure it works. Make sure the rear hinge on the outboard door isn’t rubbing against the wheel when the door is closed. If it is, you can use a hobby knife to carefully trim down the other side of the wheel around the hole for the axle to shift the wheel over, or remount the rear of the nacelle cover slightly over to the side—either of which will give the hinge and wheel more clearance. ❏❏15. Make one more bend in the inboard pushrod
about 1/2" [13mm] from the end as shown.

18
❏❏16. Connect the inboard pushrod to the other end of the plywood lever. Use medium CA to glue the horn to the inboard door. In the top-view photo, note how the horn is slightly ahead of the lever so the pushrods will not interfere when the door closes.
❏❏17.Temporarily disconnect the outboard pushrod from the bellcrank lever. Retract the gear by hand and close the door. With the door closed, lock the pushrod to the screw-lock connector with a 4-40 x 1/8" [3mm] SHCS. ❏❏18. Extend the gear and open the door by hand. Reconnect the outboard pushrod and cycle the gear with compressed air—both with the nacelle upside-down and upright. Make sure both doors open and close and that the retract locks in both the retracted and extend positions. Make any necessary adjustments as described below to get the gear and doors operating correctly. ❏19. Mount and hook up the doors on the right inboard wing panel the same way. Keep the left panel nearby so it can be used as a reference. ❏20. Once you get both doors operating correctly and reliably, snap a nylon retainer onto both screw- lock connectors on the horns on the inboard doors.
Retract and Door Adjustments: If the retracts don’t retract or extend all the way or if the doors don’t fully close, following is a list of possible problems and solutions: ❏A. One or both pushrods may be too long.
Shorten the pushrods in small increments.
❏B. One or both pushrods may be too short not allowing the gear to retract fully. Lengthen the pushrods. ❏C. There may be too much or not enough tension in the spring. Move the spring to a different setting on the lever mount. ❏D. There may be too much friction in the retract unit, not allowing it to operate freely and all the way. Lightly oil moving parts in the retract unit. ❏E. Some of the parts in the door mechanism may be binding. Isolate moving parts and find out if any are too tight (ball links on ball link balls, clevises, screw-lock pushrod connector in inboard door, screw holding in bellcrank lever.) ❏F. The clevis on the inboard pushrod that is connected to the lever may be interfering with the inboard pushrod. Bend the inboard pushrod as necessary to clear the clevis on the other side of the lever. ❏G.There may not be enough air pressure to fully retract the gear—compressed air cans advertised as “dusters” typically put out approximately 90- 100psi, but your can may be too low. 60-80psi should be adequate for fully retracting the gear— less for extending gear. ❏H. You may be extending or retracting the gear
too slowly. A little momentum and a mild “slam” will help the strut and doors extend and retract all the way.

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MOUNT THE COWL ❏❏1. Take a few minutes to study how the cowl
is mounted in the following photos. The cowl is mounted via a cowl ring which is permanently glued in the cowl. The cowl ring is attached to removable cowl mounting tabs with 4-40 x 1/2" SHCS—three of the cowl mounting screws are accessible from behind the cowl and the fourth one on the top of the cowl is accessible through the front. (Otherwise, the carburetor intake would have to be removed just to remove the cowl.) Each cowl mounting tab is attached to the firewall with two 4-40 x 3/8" [9.5mm] Phillips screws and blind nuts. The cowl mounting tabs are removable so that the fiberglass nacelle cover can be removed to access components in the nacelle.
❏❏2.Disconnect the retract door pushrods and remove
the nacelle cover from the left, inboard wing panel.
❏❏3. Drill 5/32" [4mm] holes through the firewall
at the eight precut marks for the cowl mounting tabs. IMPORTANT!: Use care NOT to drill into the fuel tank when drilling through the bottom two holes!
❏❏4. Use a 4-40 x 3/8" [9.5mm] Phillips screw and two #4 washers to pull 4-40 blind nuts into the back of each hole just drilled in the firewall. Use epoxy to glue in the blind nuts as they go in or use a few drops of thin or medium CA to glue in the blind nuts after they are all the way in. ❏❏5. Note that there are two different plywood cowl mounting tabs—long ones (“A”) and short ones (“B”). One of the longer, “A” tabs has a larger hole in the top. Press a 4-40 blind nut into the larger hole of that “A” tab.
❏❏6. Mount the nacelle cover to the wing panel. Use two 4-40 x 3/8" [9.5mm] Phillips screws, #4 lock washers and flat washers to mount each cowl mounting tab to the front of the firewall—the short “B” tabs go on the sides of the firewall and the long “A” tabs go on the top and bottom of the firewall.The “A” tab with the blind nut goes on top of the wing and the blind nut goes toward the back. Note: Do not tighten the screws all the way so the tabs will be allowed to “float.” ❏❏7. Mount three more 4-40 blind nuts into the three large holes in one side of one of the cowl rings and glue them in—note that one of the holes is smaller than the other three—do not mount a blind nut into that small hole.

20
❏❏8. Mount the cowl ring to the cowl mounting tabs with four 4-40 x 1/2" SHCS, #4 lock washers and #4 flat washers. Note that the top screw goes in from the front, but the other three go in through the back. A 3/32" ball end hex wrench (GPMR8002) is virtually a must from here on out. Once the cowl ring has been fastened to all the tabs, go ahead and tighten up the screws holding the tabs to the firewall. ❏❏9. Mount the engine mount and engine without
the muffler. Trim the cowl ring as necessary until you can get the muffler to fit.
❏❏10. Remove the muffler from the engine. Get
ready to start cutting fiberglass and read the Hot Tip below that lists recommended tools, working tips and safety warnings for cutting fiberglass.
Tools For Cutting Fiberglass There are several fiberglass parts on this model. A few of them will require cutting and trimming to end up with the best fit. Follow these warnings and use the suggested tools for working safely with fiberglass. A. Donotbecasualwhenworkingwithfiberglass.
Always wear eye and respiratory protection.
B. Work in a well-ventilated area—working under an
exhaust fan that will draw fiberglass dust away is best. If possible, cutting fiberglass outdoors may also be a good idea.
C. Wear a long-sleeve shirt when cutting fiberglass. D. If using a high-speed rotary tool, hearing
protection is recommended.
E. Following are the best tools for cutting fiberglass: I. A rotary tool. II. A fine-point, felt-tip pen for marking.(Afterward,
ink can be removed with a paper towel and denatured alcohol.)
III. A 3/32" ball driver will be indispensable when
fitting the cowl later.
IV. Curved and flat hobby files. V. Various cutting bits for your rotary tool—the
carbide cutter is best for making initial cuts. Abrasive drum sanders work well for “fine- tuning.”
VI. A small sanding board made from a piece of
plywood with sandpaper glued on.
VII. Small sheets of medium-grit sandpaper to
smooth rough edges.
❏❏11. Retrieve your fiberglass cutting tools and safety equipment. Cut one of the fiberglass engine cowls to fit over the engine—it doesn’t matter which of the two cowls you choose because they are both the same.Cutting the hole is basically a trial-and-error process where you cut-and-fit and cut-and-fit the cowl until it goes over the engine. If using a 4-stroke, the cowl fitting procedure will be easier if the valve cover is temporarily removed. If using a 2-stroke the cowl will be easier to fit if the head is temporarily removed. This will allow the cowl to fit without having to finalize the exact size, shape and location of the cutout until after the cowl has been permanently mounted. Start by trying to fit the cowl over the engine as far as it will go. Use a fine-point felt-tip pen or a lead pencil to mark the inside of the cowl in the approximate location where the engine will stick out.