Triton Ladoga 1 advanced User manual

1
Assembling Instruction - Triton Ladoga 1 advanced
Allround touring and sea kayak
QR Code assembly video:

2
Assembling Instruction - Triton Ladoga 1 advanced
Dear Customer,
At first: please do not be alarmed by the extent of these instructions!
The assembling instructions are very detailed and almost every step is illustrated. You will
notice that it will help you at one point or another. After a few times and with a little practice
you won’t need the manual anymore.
You have purchased a Ladoga 1 advanced - a powerful kayak with extremely high stability
and stiffness, which was awarded among others by “Kanu-Magazin” with the "Price Tip", but
was also honorably mentioned by “Kajak-Magazin”. The Ladoga 1 advanced has been one
of the best-selling folding single kayaks in Europe in recent years.
The body stiffness results from the high structural performance of the frame; on the other
hand the hull is designed to fit the frame perfectly. This is why the first few setups are power
intensive, since frame and skin have to adapt to another (the hull expands a bit while/after
assembling the first couple of times). The assembling gets then easier each time.
Please take your time for the first assembling to learn about the special features. It is
strongly recommended following the single steps in the instructions carefully!
Otherwise, it will be unnecessarily difficult. After some practice you will build it up without
much hassle in about 25 minutes. Always keep in mind that no one is born a master, and the
individual assembling has to be learned for each folding boat.
If you have any questions, your dealer will be happy to assist you. Otherwise you can also
contact us directly - as an importer (call: 0049/731/4007675, mail: [email protected]).
As a "reward" of the assembling you get a fast and stiff touring kayak, which is characterized
by excellent handling and a strong hull!
Please also consider the instructions of “Care and Accessories”at the end of this manual.
Especially if you are planning extensive tours in salt water, which requires special care!
We hope you enjoy your new kayak!
Brief overview of assembling:
1. Assembling bow: Attach 4x stringer elements without lock,
Attach 4x stringer elements with lock and install cross rib #1 and #2
2. Assembling stern: Attach 4x stringer elements without lock,
Attach 4x stringer elements with lock and install cross rib #5
3. Insert bow and stern into the hull and tension the keel
(Therefore take the stringer elements out the skin!)
4. Insert the coaming (do not close it, yet!)
5. Close the stringer
6. Close the coaming
7. Install and mount cross rib #4 and suspension seat, then install cross rib #3
8. Install half cross rib in front of the seat and mount the rudder system
9. Inflate sponsons
This short description should provide a general overview of the basic structure of
assembling. For the first few times please consider the following detailed assembly
instructions and read them carefully before you get going:

3
1) Overview parts:
Please first get all parts out the pack and spread them out. It is best to sort the parts
according to the content list.
#1 8x Stringer element with lock:
#2 9x Stringer element without lock
#3 2x Ridge bar (identical)
#4 4x Keel rod
#5 Bow segment
#6 Stern segment
#7 4x Coaming rod
(wider diameter than stringer element,
of which 2x have D-rings)
2x short coaming rod
(comes connected!)
#8 2x Sliding sleeve, large
#9 4x Sleeves, small
#10Seat and back
#11Rudder system
#12Repair kit
#13Cover for loading hatch
#145x Cross rib (numbering see left)
#151x Half cross rib
#16Hull with deck
#17Backpack and waist belt (no pic)
The waist belt is a wide, padded strap
that you can slip into the backpack, if
you carry the boat for a longer time on
your back.
14)
#4
10 a)
#2
2
#1
#3
#5
#6
#7
#8
#9
#10
#11
#12
#13
#14
#16
1)
2)
3)
4)
5)
#15

4
2) Assembling Bow
1x Bow segment
5x Stringer element without lock
4x Stringer element with lock
1x Keel rod #1 (see picture below)
1x Keel rod #2 (see picture below)
1x Keel rod #3 (see picture below)
1x Ridge bar
1x Cross rib #1
1x Cross rib #2 with steel hooks on top
enlarged half-pipe
Explanation and differentiation of the keel
rods for the bow:
•Keel rod #1 has "only" one clip just
before the tapered end of the rod.
•Keel rod #2 additionally has a riveted
pickup for the sail (circled on the left)
•Keel rod #3, has a riveted half-tube
(circled), which is later required to
connect with the stern element
First clip a stringer element without lock on
each of the five elements at the bow
segment. The stringer elements will lock in
place by the snap buttons on the bow
segment.
Then clip a stringer element with lock on the
four side stringer elements (not to the middle
one).
Then clip the keel rods to the keel element
of the bow segment in the right order
(#1, #2, #3 –see explanation above).
Then take cross rib #1.
The cross ribs are inserted all in the same
way:
First place the cross
rib diagonally…
#1
# 2
# 3

5
…then slide the clip onto the “counter clip”
on the keel rod and slowly right it up.
The cross rib is now locked and firmly
connected to the pickup element.
Then clip the four sideward stringer
elements into the C-clips of the cross rib.
The centered stringer element (arrow) simply
place on top of the cross rib. This will use as
an extension to the ridge bar
Take cross rib #2 and one of the two
identical ridge bars.
Hook the cross rib to the ridge bar.
Join the cross rib diagonally with the hooks
pointing forwards to the openings at the
ridge bar.
(see left images)

6
Now, the cross rib #2 is simultaneously (the
wider of two cross ribs with steel hooks at
the upper end) connected to the keel rod.
The ridge bar is inserted into the extension.
The connection of the cross rib #2 and the
insertion of the ridge bar into the extension
element have to be done simultaneously.
(If you have clipped the extension into the
upper clip of cross rib #1, release it again for
the step above!)
Then clip the extension element on the
upper clip of cross rib #1
Ensure, that all snap buttons face inside
the kayak:
The bow element is fully assembled and
should result in the image on the left.
Summarized procedure:
Clip 4 stringer elements without lock,
then 4 Stringer elements with lock into
the side ward pickup elements at the bow
segment.
Clip on keel rods #1, #2 and #3.
Install one stringer element without lock
on the middle pickup element. Then install
cross rib #1.
Attach then the ridge bar to cross rib #2
and then install and push simultaneously
onto the upper stringer element.
snap button

7
3) Assembling stern
You need:
Stern segment
4x Stringer element without lock
4x Stringer element with lock
1x Keel rod #4 with spherical end
1x Cross rib #5 (the smaller of two
cross ribs with steel hooks)
1x Ridge bar
First clip a stringer element without lock on
each of the four side ward elements at the
stern segment, then one Stringer element
with lock.
The remaining keel rod #4 with the
spherical end is placed to the keel of the
stern segment.
The cross rib #5 is inserted similar to the
cross rib #2.
Which means, that the remaining ridge bar
is joined to the cross rib and then, while
pushing it to the pickup element on the
keel rod, it is inserted to the pickup at the
stern segment.
Then clip the stringer elements to the
cross rib #5.
Ensure, that all snap buttons face inside
the kayak!
The stern element is fully assembled and
should result in the image on the left.

8
4) Inserting bow and stern element in the skin, and tensioning of the hull
Spread out the hull.
Open the hatch at the bow and open the
waterproof roll closure.
Then insert the bow element into the hull.
Make sure to place the frame centered.
Now push the frame flatly into the bow.
It is best to kneel inside the boat and
take the frame at the back ends of the
stringer elements.
Try to orientate at the ridge bar and the
reinforcement strip on the deck to insert
the frame centrally. Also, a look through
the hatch can help.

9
Push the frame firmly into the bow as far
as you can.
Make sure, the two pickup elements at the
ridge bar are pointing towards the center
of the kayak (this is where the coaming is
inserted later on).
On the left you see the insertion of the
stern section.
Proceed likewise with the stern.
Push the frame flat into the bow and as far
as you can.
Make sure to take the filling tubes for the
sponsons between the stringer elements.
Now bow and stern are getting connected
and tensioned. In order to do this, remove
the split pin on keel rod.
And then proceed exactly as described.
Please read through the following
section before going to work:
The keel rod of the bow with its
hemispherical end is mounted to the
riveted half-tube of the stern’s keel rod.

10
That means pulling up stern and bow
("stern over bow"). Hang keel rod #4
under keel rod #3 (with the riveted half-
tube) and gently push the whole thing
down.
IMPORTANT:
Prior to this operation take the stringer
elements out the skin. This will relieve the
keel and will avoid any blockage.
You can pull up bow and stern without any
problem. The skin can flex and the frame
won’t jam.
(You see this very clearly on the two
pictures on the left).
If the stringer elements are not removed
from the skin, an unfortunate pressure on
the keel rods is created, which may
damage them.
After joining the keel rods, slowly press
them both down.
Put the stringer elements back into the
hull (see the left picture).
Slowly press the aligned keel rods down.
Especially the first time a high tension
occurs. This is normal and will decrease
with further assembling.
Then insert the split pin back through the
holes and wrap the rubber around it.
Before the stringer elements now are connected, insert the coaming into the coaming
channel.
Connecting the coaming must necessarily be done after connecting the stringer!

11
For the coaming you need:
4x coaming rod (2 of them with D-ring)
2x short coaming rod
(come connected)
Connect one of the bent rods with D-ring
with one of the short rods.
Insert these with the short part ahead into
the coaming channel. And that into the
part with the largest gap in the rear third
(see the left picture).
Then slide this first half of the coaming
through the channel to the front.
It is much easier to push the coaming rod
“from the inside of the boat”, rather than
“from above”. This creates a “straight line”
and prevents jamming inside the channel.
Thus, the rods are much easier to push
into the channel!
Then connect the coaming rod with the
pickup element in the bow by sliding it
onto it. Just pull the flexible part a bit
toward you, so that there is also a straight
line. Thus the connection of coaming rod
is much easier.
Proceed likewise on the other side.
Then push the remaining two coaming
rods without D-ring into the channel
towards the stern and connect them to the
flexible pickup elements in the stern.
Attention: Do not connect the coaming
in the middle, yet! First the stringer
elements have to be connected in the next
step:

12
Either "press"…
…or "pull" from the other side:
Connecting the Stringer elements
(Read first):
The connecting of the stringer elements is
a process that you have to learn.
Especially the precise alignment of the
"locks" to another is crucial to prevent
jamming. This connection technology adds
a lot to the overall stiffness of the boat.
For one, you "press" the excess length,
the two stringer element with lock of bow
and stern have, "into the boat length" and
on the other hand, this connection is
stable, both on pressure and on tension.
A huge advantage on the water!
Note: You can connect the stringer
elements both by pushing them into the
boat, or by pulling them into the boat from
the opposite side.
Give it a try, what suits you better.
Work your way from the bottom up. Start
with the lower stringer elements.
First take one of the four small sleeves
and slide it onto one of the stringer
element (see top picture).
Then take the stringer element (as in the
second picture) and align the locks
exactly to another.
The mouths have to "look at each other".
This is crucial, otherwise it will be
unnecessarily difficult.
Push both stringer elements towards the
boat's center. This requires some strength
(especially for the first few times). The
process can also be done - as mentioned
earlier - from the other side, by pulling the
stringer elements to yourself.

13
Then connect the two locks. You must
align the locks exactly to another, in
order to prevent jamming.
Do the whole process - especially the first
few times - as slowly as possible and
without hassle.
Let the stringer then slowly come back and
make sure that the two elements form a
straight line.
This is very important, too. Once there is
no straight line, the stringer elements will
jam.
If they form a straight line, you still can
adjust some little imprecision, by pressing
with your thumb.
Then slide the sleeve over the connection.
Repeat the process with the remaining 3
stringer elements, from bottom to top.
Especially at the beginning you have to
practice a bit until you find the right way.
But then it is surprisingly easy. The
gratitude is an extremely stiff and strong
connection that contributes a lot to the
performance of your folding kayak.
Connecting the coaming
Take one of the two bigger sleeves and
put it onto the coaming rod.
The connection of the coaming rods is
done similarly to the connection of the
stringer.

14
Align both locks exactly on another. Then
press the rods slightly downward or
upward - depending on how the
connection works better.
Snap the locks and return rods. Then slide
the sleeve over it.
Important:
Again, it is crucial to form a straight line
and then slide the sleeve over the locks.
You can also pull the two rods towards
you, if you want to do it from the other
side.
NOTE:
Some customers proceed in reverse order,
connecting stringer and coaming.
That is, they connect bow and stern,
THEN connect the stringer elements first
and insert the coaming afterwards and
connect it.
Try that variation, if you want and proceed
how it suits you best!
5) Installation of cockpit cross ribs and installation of the hanging seat
Take cross rib # 4 to the hand and join it
diagonally as usual.
Support a little by pulling the cross rib
towards the pickup element on the keel
rod with the other hand. Grab under the
keel and press the cross rib downwards.
(see picture)
Then take out your hand again, while
righting up the cross rib.

15
Raise the cross rib slowly.
Please make sure, not to snag the cross
rib on the coaming channel
Then clip the stringers into the cross rib's
clips.
Best is to grab the cross rib from the
opposite side with your thumb above the
clip.
Then press the stringer from the bottom
into the clip.
(see picture)
Thus you get the best leverage and need
less power.
On the left the "ideal move".
You can also try to clip the two top stringer
into the clips while raising the cross rib.
It is not that easy, but it will save you from
pushing up the stringer later on.
Please do not clip in the coaming, yet!
Installation of the hanging seat
After installing the cross rib #4 reopen the
connection of the two stringer closest to
the keel.
Slide the sleeve and disconnect the locks.
This will be easy now, because there isn't
anymore pressure to it.
Then take the seat. The filling tube to
inflate the seat always faces forwards,
towards the bow.
grab with your thumb above
the clip
press from bottom to top
bow
Stern

16
Insert the stringer elements into the seat
and pull the seat backwards. Grab from
behind to the front part of the seat (as on
the picture below).
Pull as far until the seat is located
approximately 10 cm in front of the cross
rib #4.
(you will find out, what position suits you
best quickly).
This process takes a bit more strength,
when the boat is new. The seat extends a
bit, so it gets easier each time.
It might help to slightly press the two
stringer elements inside the boat, in order
to place the seat easier.
Then reconnect the two stringer elements.
Now insert cross rib #3. Proceed in the
same way as with cross rib #4.
Clip all the stringer into the cross rib's
clips.
Please use the "ideal move", as shown
with cross rib #4

17
Then clip the coaming into the big top C-
clips of the cross ribs.
If this is a bit difficult, "push" the coaming
with your palm over the cross rib.
(as shown in the left picture)
Now take the remaining half cross rib.
This is to support the seat and ensures
that the weight of the paddler does not
press on the stringer element.
It is therefore essential to install!
First place he half cross rib diagonally and
then push it into position! Otherwise is not
possible to install.
Clip one end onto the stringer right in
front of the seat. Place the other end
diagonally on the lower stringer and a
bit further to the front.
Then slide the half cross rib into position.
The half cross rib then sits directly in front
of the seat.

18
Now install the back rest.
Lead the upper strap through the D-ring on
the coaming….
…then lead it back through the clip
Set the desired position.
The lower straps are fixed on the cross rib
behind the seat.
Now inflate the sponsons by using the
filling tubes. These are then connected
with the connecting pipe. By connecting
the tubes you will provide a pressure
equalization, which guarantees an ever
symmetrical underwater hull.
It is best to inflate the sponsons with the
mouth. When you notice, that it gets
harder to inflate, it is usually the right
pressure.

19
6) Deck lining / Deck
In the repair kit you will find the deck
lining.
The deck lining can be installed in
different ways.
One suggestion is, to form a loop, lead it
through the middle D-ring and lead the two
ends back through the loop.
(as shown in the left picture)
But you are free to attach the lining as you
want.
The deck is attached by Velcros.
Begin at the top of the cockpit fix it
The left picture shows the front tip of the
deck.

20
Instructions for disassembling:
- For the disassembling proceed in the same way as for assembling but in reverse
order.
- Open the hatches and slip them outward, so that the rods won't get caught up in it.
- Should it be a little hard - especially in the beginning - to pull out the frame from the
hull, just grab through the hatch and remove the first cross rib (in the reverse
direction, as you raised it). Thus you will reduce the tensions a lot. Now it should
be easy to take out the frame.
- Alternatively tap with your flat hand on the front of the lower part against the bow.
Here, the boat should lay flat and the stern should already be taken out of the skin.
Especially the first 2-3 times, it may be that the bow frame sits very tight in the skin.
By tapping the frame should slightly loose itself from the skin and it then gets easier
to pull out. You can also grab through the front hatch and slightly loosen the frame.
Folding the hull
Before folding the skin, spread it out flatly. Then fold it lengthwise, and fold the top and the
stern to the middle.
Then fold it from the stern again about to one length of the pack: