TufFlight 4D User manual

Page 1
The Toughest R/C Planes Ever!
5376 Amalfi Drive, Clay, NY 13041 www.tufflight.com
Items Included in kit:
Wing:
Pre sliced foam cores
(2) 3" x 24" pre cut corplast ailerons
(4) Robart Hinge points
Braces:
(2) 1/2" x 1" x 5-7/8" engine mount beams
(1) 3/16”" x 2" x 9" engine plate
(4) 1/16" x 3/4" x 5" support plates
(1) 1/16" x 1-1/2" x 5" fuse key plate
(1) 0.040" x 1-5/16" x 48" brace material
(1) 0.040" x 1-5/16" x 24" brace doubler
(1) 0.060" x 1-3/8" x 8" soft plastic sheet
This Instruction Manual
Template Plot Sheet
3/16” formed landing gear
Fuselage, Tail Feathers and Fins:
(1) machined plastic fuselage (the bat)
(1) pre-drilled 7/8” wood axle dowel
(1) 3/16” x 10.5” carbon tube axle
(1) 3/16” x 18.5” carbon tube axle
(2) 7/32” x 2-1/2” brass axle sleeve
(2) 12" x 24" corplast sheets
(8) wooden skewers
(2) 3” blue skewer guide tubes
Hardware:
(4) 1/4-20 x 1.5" nylon bolts
(10) 1/4-20 nuts
(2) large washers
(4) 14” zip ties
(6) 3/16” wheel collars
(1) 7” x 1/16” tail skid wire
12” thin copper wire
Rev 2.7
Amazing 3D capability
-plus-
Outstanding Durability
Hello, and thanks for buying the 4D! Whether you’ve just entered the exciting world of 3D flying, or a seasoned
veteran, the 4D is the perfect combination of agility, durability, versatility and value.
Caution: The 4D is not intended as an R/C trainer airplane. This plane is a very agile aerobatic performer that is
capable of quick rolls, hovering flight and many tricks appealing to the “3D” flyer.
The CG location is 5” from the leading edge. Move rearward as desired for easier 3D
Note: If you want to fly slow AND fast, be sure to install tail counterbalances shown at end of manual.
While you may be tempted to fly close to yourself, please practice in a safe manner.
Always obey safety rules and do not exceed your abilities.
Please read and understand the instructions before starting to build. We recommend joining the AMA and follow-
ing the AMA safety code. Call 1 (800) I- FLY-AMA for more details.
We assume no responsibility for how you use your plane. That said, let's get started!
Wingspan: 48"
Length: 38"
Weight: 4.25 - 4.75 lbs
Engine: .40 - .53 two stroke,
.63-.82 four stroke
Radio: 4 channels
Servos: 5
Wing Area: 720 sq in
Side Area: nominal 200 sq in

Page 2
Items needed to complete:
Equipment:
.46-.53 two stroke engine
or .63-.82 four stroke
radio receiver
6” aileron extension
(used as battery switch/charging)
battery: 600 mAH
5 servos,
2 aileron, 1 rudder, 1 elevator,
1 metal geared throttle servo if possible
Parts:
1 or 2 rolls Ultracote covering
fuel tubing
poly fill (available at
fabric stores) for radio RX packing
8 oz fuel tank
optional foam rubber under tank (for 4 stroke)
(3) clevises
(7) control horns (Large Dubro “T style”)
(14) 2-56 bolts and nuts for horns and jam nuts
(5) 12” 2-56 single threaded end push rods
(2) 3” 2-56 double threaded end push rods
(1) 2-56 x 1” threaded rod
4 feet pull pull cord and 2 crimp tubes
nyrod push rods and housing tubes
(2) 3” diameter wheels
(4) 3/16” wheel collars
(4) 4-40 x 1” bolts (for engine mount)
(4) 4-40 nylon insert lock-nuts
(substitute 6-32 for .72 4 stroke)
spinner nut
props : 11x4 for a 40 size 2 stroke
14x4, 13x5 or 13x6 for a 4 stroke
Adhesives:
Elmers “Ultimate” polyurethane glue (formerly
called “Pro Bond” (aka “Poly U”)
3M-77 Spray adhesive
Goop brand adhesive
(household, plumber's, auto,
marine varieties all OK)
hinge tape - Frost King 2" weatherseal # T94
is excellent (25’roll avail at Walmart)
silver solder and flux
medium or thin CA
5 minute epoxy
masking tape
Helpful Tools:
40 grit sandpaper on block
(available at auto finishing stores
and Sears)
hobby knife / utility knife
soldering iron
rat tail file
square
X-acto knife with # 26 blade
(2.25 inches long, great for cutting
servo pockets from foam)
Phillips head screwdriver
straight screwdriver
long nose pliers/wire cutters
drill with:
1/4" bit
3/16” bit
3/32” bit
5/32” bit
1/8" bit (for engine 4-40 bolts)
#48 bit (for push rod servo arm holes)
#49 bit (for push rod throttle arm holes)
Dremel Tool w/ drum sander & cut-off wheel
hacksaw, razor saw, coping saw or band saw
covering iron
felt tip pen
pencil
ruler/straight edge
scissors
36” x 3/8” dowel or similar
flat building table, at least 6 ft long
“spray safe” area for applying 3M spray glue
(ie. outside, or a large box indoors)
mineral spirits for spray glue cleanup
(also great for cleaning fuel/oil residue!)
Useful:
2" wide roll thin clear packing tape for field repairs
big spray can of WD-40 for field cleaning
crashed engines
toothbrush and other small stiff brush for field
cleaning crashed engine
cotton swabs for field cleaning engine carb
plentiful supply of props (11 x 4 for 40 size 2 stroke,
14x4 for 4 stroke)
plentiful supply of 1/4-20 nylon bolts/nuts
plentiful supply of wooden skewers

Page 3
Glues Needed:
You will need these glues to assemble your plane. Please do not substitute!
CA (cyanoacrylate) - either medium or thin viscosity. Only a small amount needed.
5 minute epoxy : only a small amount needed. 10 or 30 minute may be used if you’re patient.
Elmers Ultimate Polyurethane Glue - high strength, light weight, expands while curing to penetrate and fill voids.
(we call it “poly U” glue). Until recently it was sold as “Pro-Bond”
Goop : Similar to silicone adhesive/sealant but MUCH stronger. The
only acceptable alternatives are Pacer Zap-a-Dap-a-Goo, PFM
or “Shoe Goo”
3M77 : There is no acceptable substitute. Used in many places for air-
frame assembly and covering adhesion.
Do all spraying in a “spray safe” area, as over-
spray may be hazardous to your health, and will make
an annoying mess if carelessly applied. We find a large
box placed on the floor makes a good "overspray booth"
as the spray settles rapidly, but it should be contained.
Many modelers have never used this glue in their hobby
practices, but we find it perfectly suited for foam wing
construction, and many other modeling tasks.
* 3M77 Spray glue may be applied generously, as it is
lightweight.
* 3M77 overspray may be cleaned with odorless min-
eral spirits.
*We consider a "generous" or "heavy" coat to be "bubbly" and cold to the touch after applied. A good heavy coat takes
about 20 seconds of spray time to apply to an area roughly 2 feet by 3 feet.
Choose Your Fuselage Style:
New with Version 2.0 is the “Scale-like” profile option that resembles full scale aerobatic planes. Materials are
included to build either version. Most of the illustrations show the original fuselage style, but differences for building the
scale version are noted in several steps and on the included plot sheets used for cutting the corplast parts.
“Scale” Profile Original Symmetrical Profile
You can choose among two
styles of elevator to go with
either fuselage style.
If you’re undecided on which
style to choose, the main
difference in flying character
is the original style has
slightly better knife edge
authority.
However, most people like the
looks of the scale profile.

Page 4
Step 5: Lay cores on table with root edges
together. True by sanding if needed.
Step 4: Sand cores lightly to clean away
remaining “spider webs”
Step 3: Peel away “spider webs”
Step 2: Carefully separate foam pieces
Step 1: Gather parts and tools
Prepare the foam and plastic wing pieces
You’ll need : foam core pieces
40 grit sandpaper on block
clear plastic braces, engine plate
3M Spray glue, hobby or utility knife
masking tape, marker, ruler
Step 6: Remove film from clear plastic
braces
Step 7: Mark 48” brace at 36” from one
end.
Step 8: Score the brace at the 36” mark
with a knife
Step 9: Snap the brace by bending at score.
Save the left over 12” piece
Step 10: Mark resulting 36” piece at the
center (18” from either end)
40 grit paper or a
scrap piece of foam
makes a good
scraper to remove
pesky “spider webs”
Sand root edges
if needed

Page 5
Step 15: Snap along scores to give three
4” pieces
Step 14: Score piece along marks
Step 13: Also mark 8” from end
Step 12: Mark left over 12” piece 4” from
one end
Step 11: Mark the 24” brace doubler in the
center
Step 20: Sand both resulting “fuselage
plates” to deburr and make corners round.
Step 19: Snap the pieces along the line.
Discard the small strips.
Step 18: Score pieces with knife along this
line
Step 17: Draw a line 1/4” from one edge
the long way as shown. Repeat for both.
Step 16: Discard the 3rd piece. Only two
4” pieces are used
Pliers help to
get a good
grip when
snapping this
narrow piece

Page 6
Step 25: Gather parts and materials
Step 24: Test fit the engine plate into slot
to be sure it lines up to 2” mark
Step 23: Locate the front LE core pieces
and remove foam tab as shown
Step 22: Locate the engine plate and mark
its center and 2” from both edges
Step 21: lightly scuff the 36” and 24”
braces with sandpaper (both sides of each)
Step 30: Press the braces tightly together
Step 29: Join the 24” brace to the 36”
brace centered with glue sides together
Step 28: Spray 1 side each of the 24”
brace doubler and 36” brace
Step 27: Tape the cores together with
masking tape
Step 26: Spray the root edges of the rear
cores with 3M77
Test fit both
foam LE
pieces
You can use
the plate to
“sand” out
slot if needed
Assemble the foam wing pieces
You’ll need : foam core pieces
clear plastic braces, engine plate
fuse key plate, support plates
3M Spray glue, Goop
masking tape, small clamps
100 grit
paper works
well here
Stretch tape
tightly across the
joint (top and
bottom)
Use the center
marks to align
the smaller
brace on top of
the larger
apply a heavy
coat of 3M77

Page 7
Step 35: Mask the region between the
marks as shown
Step 34: Mark a “no spray” zone 5” wide
as shown
Step 33: Place the brace assembly glue
side to the wing front as shown
Step 32: Spray the wing assembly front
edge as shown
Step 31: Spray the whole brace assembly
with 3M77 on the doubler side only
Step 40: Apply Goop to the rear edge of
the engine plate. (holes are closer to front!)
Step 39: Apply the front cores to the wing.
Tape tightly as shown
Step 38: Spray the rear edges of the front
LE cores as shown down their whole length
Step 37: Remove masking tape from “no
spray zone”
Step 36: Spray the wing assembly front
edge again as shown
Make marks 2-
1/2” each side
of center
Spray whole
front edge
Align pieces evenly
with rear core tips.
Leave the center “no
spray zone” exposed
the front cores are
interchangeable
apply a heavy
coat of 3M77
(24” piece on
top)
Place the 24”
piece against
the foam

Page 8
Step 45: Smooth a fillet of Goop at the
joint both top and bottom as shown
Step 44: Stretch tape tightly to press plate
down. Apply two strips to both ends
Step 43: Press plate firmly to brace
Step 42: Insert engine plate into slots as
shown
Step 41: Apply Goop to top and bottom
surfaces 2” from each end
Step 50: Apply plate to bottom and
smooth another fillet as shown
Step 49: Glue the bottom support plate
likewise
Step 48: Smooth a fillet of Goop along
edges of plate as shown
Step 47: Set the support plate at the angle
shown to brace and top of engine plate
Step 46: Apply Goop to edges of 5”
support plate
Goop where
plate sits in
foam slots (see
next step)
Double check
hole location
(closer to front!)
Don’t tape over
center area
Don’t be stingy
when making
fillets!
We need very
strong joints here!

Page 9
Step 55: Apply Goop to both sides of key
plate
Step 54: Remove key plate and sand it
down to marks so it will be flush
Step 53: Mark fuse key plate where it
protrudes beyond wing surface
Step 52: Slide the fuselage key plate into
the slot as shown
Step 51: Stretch tape as shown. Monitor
the fit of the support plates.
Step 60: Glue the bottom plate similarly as
shown
Step 59: Press the plate to the wing top
surface at rear as shown
Step 58: Apply Goop to one side of the
two “fuselage plates” made in step 20.
Step 57: Wipe away excess Goop
Step 56: Insert key plate
Be sure support plates
remain in correct alignment
(under tape). Tape or clamp
plates as necessary to be
sure fillets are smooth and
will dry to strong joints
Key plate should
protrude slightly
from both top and
bottom surfaces
Mark plate at both
top and bottom
surfaces
Sand and test fit
again as needed
for a flush fit
Center the fuselage
plate at the wing
rear

Page 10
Step 65: Drill 3/16” holes through plates
as shown at tank edge marks
Step 64: Mark centers of 5” support plates.
Center on tank bottom. Mark edge locations
Step 63: Assemble fuel tank. Cut tube to
correct length, apply clunk, ring and stopper.
Step 62: Gather parts and tools
Step 61: Use lightweight clamps to hold
the plates together while Goop cures.
Step 69: Decide which outline style you
like and cut out rudder template
Step 68: Gather tools and materials
Step 67: Sand small bevel into one edge of
engine mount beam as shown. Use 40 grit!
Step 66: Sand corners of plate round
Be careful not to distort the wing!
Prepare misc pieces while Goop cures
You’ll need : 2 remaining 5” support plates
fuel tank & parts: clunk, pickup tube,stopper
engine mount beams
3/16” drill
40 grit sandpaper on block
Be sure to make
left and right
versions!
(Holes are NOT
in beam centers!)
Make two identical
tank support plates
(2 holes per plate)
Make tail feathers and fins
You’ll need : corplast material, straight edge / ruler
utility knives, hobby knife
control horns and screws, marker
3/16” drill, scissors, 3M77, mineral spirits
paper template plot, brass tube
Step 70: Lay template on corplast as
shown and mark axle flute location
Note: We use the terms
“elevator” and “rudder”
but the correct terms are
really horizontal and
vertical “stabilators” as
they move as one piece
Please forgive the
informality
Be sure fuel tube is NOT
too long!
(clunk should NOT
touch rear of tank when
stopper pushed in place)
Don’t forget the silver
retainer ring!

Page 11
Step 75: Center brass tube in rudder gap
and mark end locations
Step 74: Lift up template at arrows and mark
closest flutes under these locations as shown
Step 73: Cut out the rudder using a
straight edge and sharp utility knife
Step 72: Lightly spray back of rudder
template with 3M77 and apply to corplast
Step 80: Cut a “fresh edge” in corplast.
Be careful not to cross any flute walls.
Step 79: Cut out elevator templates.
Step 78: Remove corplast rectangles
section and trim edges neatly.
Step 77: Be sure to cut outside flute walls.
Repeat for both notches
Step 76: Cut relief for brass axle tube as
shown
Step 71: Extend the axle location marks
along the whole piece of corplast
Use only a VERY
LIGHT mist coat!
line up the axle
location of the
template with the line
on the corplast
Draw the knife so
the flutes guide it
against the straight
edge and not away.
Watch your fingers!
This is the location
for the rudder axle
Choose which style
you like for the
elevators. Either
one will work with
either fuselage style
(scale or non-scale)
This step not needed for
Scale Elevator style.
Be careful to make the
line centered on one flute

Page 12
Step 85: Measure and mark 3/4” from
edge on the axle flute as shown
Step 84: Mark location(s) for elevator axle
flute
Step 83: Cut elevator free with knife and
straight edge
Step 82: Lightly spray 3M77 to back of
template and align LE to corplast edge
Step 81: Trim flutes from “fresh edge” as
before. This will be the elevator LE
Step 90: Drill holes with 1/16 bit.
Install rudder control horn facing left side.
Step 89: Cut out rudder control horn tem-
plate. Use to it mark location for horn screws
Step 88: Optional- Cut 3 skewer pieces to
roughly 1”. Goop into position where shown
Step 87: Optional- skewer pieces into upper
flutes where control horn mounts.
Step 86: Repeat 81-85 for other elevator
half.
This step not needed for
Scale Elevator style.
For Scale Elevator
style, be sure flutes are
perpendicular to side
edges, for correct axle
alignment
non scale tail
feathers shown
perform this step to
avoid crushing the
corplast when
installing the control
horns
(wood skewers will be
Gooped into the flutes)

Page 13
Step 95: Remove top and bottom fuse aft
section in one piece as shown.
Step 94: Repeat horn installation steps for
all tail pieces.
Step 93: Deburr bolt ends as desired
Step 92: Clip extra bolt length
Step 91: Be careful NOT to overtighten
screws
Step 100: Remove paper from parts and
clean 3M77 residue with mineral spirits
Step 99: For remaining fuse pieces, align to
corplast and mark flutes as shown
Step 98: Cut out corplast on outline with
sharp utility or hobby knife as shown
Step 97: lift up template while holding other
side and lightly spray 3M77 as shown
Step 96: Align template as shown so arrow
points to the center of a flute and mark
Don’t crush corplast!
Optional:
You can still go back and
glue some wood filler in
flutes if you DO crush it
too much
Install elevator
horns on bottoms
Don’t cut
individual pieces
from template
for the aft fuse --
you’ll lay them
on the corplast
together.
An iron or heat gun will
help soften glue for
easier removal
mark this flute
along it’s whole
length
(lift up paper
after you mark
which flute it is)
this method
allows you to keep
your alignment
with the marked
flute
repeat for other
end of template
align plot so
arrow is centered
on a flute for each
template piece
try to keep flute
direction straight
along whole piece

Page 14
Step 105: Test fit brass axle tube and file
axle hole as needed for a snug fit
Step 104: Drill lightening holes using 1/4”
bit as shown.
Step 103: Push out dowel with another
long dowel.
Step 102: Mark bat and dowel to note
orientation before disassembly
Step 101: Gather parts and tools
Step 110: Cut along this line with sharp
knife all the way through.
Step 109: Draw line as shown at bat front
marking the “key” centerline
Step 108: Install both axle tubes with
epoxy. Work back and forth to coat well.
Step 107: Apply a small amount of 5
minute epoxy to dowel and glue in place
Step 106: Roughen up brass tube
Assemble fuselage
You’ll need : machined “bat” with filler dowel
epoxy, Goop, brass axle tubes, marker
1/4” drill, knife, tape measure(s)
100 grit sandpaper, rat tail file
wing assembly, long dowel, alcohol
Be careful not to ruin
pre-drilled axle holes!
Be sure to re-align
using your mark!
Proceed quickly to
next step
Don’t get epoxy
inside tubes. Clean
with alcohol if
needed
Be sure tubes are
centered
Make several careful
passes to aid cutting
test fit brass
tubes into the
bat holes and
trim the bat for
a snug fit as
needed

Page 15
Step 117: Mark exactly where the key
plate lies under each key tab (all four)
Step 116: Use the marks on the plates and
measure from tips to align bat in place
Step 115: Spread apart the bat and place it
over the key plate as shown.
Step 114: Mark fuse and wing bottoms.
Fuse bottom should have the “bat label”
Step 111: Measure and mark fuse plates
13/16” from wing center as shown
Step 120: Remove the plastic between pre-
drilled holes marking nyrod exit locations
Step 113: After drilling all 4 locations, clear
the foam between the plates with the drill
Step 112: Drill both top and bottom the fuse
plates on the marks in their centers as shown
Step 119: Finished fuselage
Step 118: Cut a 1/16” wide notch on the
mark in the key tab with sharp hobby knife
Up till now, the wing
bottom could be
either side.
Pick the “prettier”
side for the top
Push it as far
forward as you can
the bat “key tabs”
should be centered
on the fuse key plate
edge within the wing
Be sure the bat is straight
in both YAW (ie, aligned
as in above picture, and
PITCH axes for this step)
Move the assembly
carefully when marking
each tab (top and bottom)
Don’t go all the way
through! (drill
separate holes from
each side)
A sharp hobby knife
works well.
Test fit nyrod
housing into slot
the dotted line
shows 1/4” depth
of cut
repeat for all tabs

Page 16
Step 125: Insert the blue push rod hous-
ings as shown.
Step 124: roughen the blue outer nyrod
tube ends with sandpaper
Step 123: Test fit nyrod tube in place.
Trim/file slot as needed.
Step 122: Cut nyrods to indicated lengths
Step 121: Use rat tailed file to get a nice
angled exit for the nyrod housing
Step 130: roughen up skewer tubes with
sandpaper
Step 129: Gather parts and tools
Step 128: Goop front of tubes also (inside
and outside). Don’t get Goop into ends.
Step 127: Spread Goop on tubes where
they exit and work into slot
Step 126: View looking inside the bat
(shown bottom side up)
Note Elevator and
Rudder tube
locations
Elevator - right side
Rudder - left side as
installed on plane
Twist the tubes and
work back and forth
to distribute Goop
into slot and all
around tube
Make nice fillets
around the tubes.
When satisfied, set
aside to dry
Prepare fin and tank locator holes
You’ll need : wing assembly, fuel tank
blue skewer guide tubes
square, marker, sandpaper, rat tail file
fins, skewer, tank support plates
No gluing at this time!
Insert a skewer into the
hole to test nyrod angle
as shown
do not glue at this time!
angle slightly to the
left as shown
(see step 123)

Page 17
Step 135: On wing bottom, center the tank
between holes and use to position tank plates
Step 134: Mark “hole X” location at first full
flute at rear edge of tank cutout as shown
Step 133: Align top fin so first flute at front
edge of the tank cut out meets tube as shown
Step 132: If using the scale fuse, tape the
front piece together temporarily as shown
Step 131: Poke hole through wing behind
brace at wing center and insert blue tube
Step 140: Gather parts, tools and materials
Step 139: Enlarge holes with rat tail file as
needed so they are clean and straight.
Step 138: Poke holes with skewer as
shown for tank plate. Use square as before.
Step 137: Mark locations of holes in plates
on bottom wing surface
Step 136: Mark plate locations on wing
bottom as shown
Use the top fin as a
marking gauge flutes
need to align over tube
guides where skewers will
later be inserted
(scale profile must be
taped together)
After marking “hole X”
location, poke it
through with skewer like
you did the front one
Insert tube into “hole
X” to help locate tank
Tank shown on bottom
of wing to locate
support plates
Install Radio
You’ll need : wing assembly, servos, receiver, poly fill
Poly U glue, Goop, hobby knife, water
servo arms, ail ext, ruler, square, marker
assembled engine/prop/spinner, scale
battery, Dremel tool, screwdriver
tank plates, scrap foam, masking tape
use square
to insure
hole is
perpendicular
to wing as
shown
This will be
used as a
guide to
locate the
holes in the
following
steps
Optional: inset
plates flush with
wing surface by
grinding away
shallow recesses with
dremel tool drum
sander

Page 18
Step 145: Lay receiver between tank
plates and draw around it as shown
Step 144: Lay the rudder/elevator servo
assembly as shown and trace around it
Step 143: Tape rudder and elevator servos
tightly together as shown.
Step 142: remove the mounting tabs from
the throttle, elevator and rudder servos.
Step 141: Gather radio parts and choose
servos for each function
Step 150: Lay an aileron servo as shown
and trace around it.
Step 149: Mark a position on this line 5/8”
from the brace
Step 148: Use a square to extend a line
from the mark toward the brace
Step 147: Repeat for right wing
Step 146: Mark the wing TE 14” from the
left tip.
blue tube removed
from “hole X” for
clarity
Servos centered on
wing directly to the
rear of “hole X”
Give some clearance
for folded servo wires
and “poly fill” shock
absorbing material
This is the line the
pull pull lines will
take
The aileron control
horns will lie 14”
from the wing tips
Note servo arm
bushing is away
from brace and wire
faces toward wing
center
Use the largest
servo arms you have
for all controls
(you can adjust them
later)
this helps locate
servo arm cavity
(see next step)
This way is the
easiest, but if you
don’t want to modify
your servos, skip
steps 142-144 and
perform step 153

Page 19
Step 153: Alternate positions for rudder
and elevator servos
Step 155: Pull out the foam in chunks with
long nose pliers
Step 154: Slice inside the rudder/elevator
servo outline with a hobby knife
Step 152: Mark the battery location shown
Step 151: Repeat for left aileron servo.
Step 160: Cut a narrow slot all the way
through the wing for the servo arm only
Step 159: Repeat for aileron servos
Step 158: Remove foam from receiver
compartment in similar fashion
Step 157: Step omitted
Step 156: Step omitted
Wing bottom showing
traced layouts of all
servos (except throttle,
which will be drawn
on top)
A Dremel tool can
also be used
A drum sander
makes a neat
constant depth here
Cut the foam
perpendicular to the
surface
Slice all the way through
the wing if necessary so
the servo top surface
will be flush with the
wing
battery goes in left
wing bottom
Use these
positions if
you did not
modify the
servos to face
together in
step 141

Page 20
Step 165: Test fit battery. Pay attention to
routing of wires to receiver cavity
Step 164: Remove foam for battery at
chosen location
Step 163: Test fit servo in the pocket.
Step 162: Slice notches to clear the servo
tabs for the aileron servos
Step 161: Carefully rout out the servo
depth with a Dremel tool
Step 170: Screw both aileron servo arms
in place after neutral is verified
Step 169: Hook up radio and zero trims for
aileron. Insure servo arm sits at neutral.
Step 168: Lay tank on wing top for reference
and trace throttle servo location as shown
Step 167: Dry fit rudder/elevator servo
and blue tube as shown
Step 166: Locate location of “hole X” (now
exposed in servo cavity)
Also make a notch
for the wire exit
Center servo arm and
check distance from
both top/bottom
surfaces
You need to connect
battery and turn on the
transmitter for this
Servo tops should be
flush with wing surface
(or as close as possible
if bottoms poke through
top surface)
Hole X lies at corners
of servos
METAL GEAR
ThROTLE SERVO
HIGHLY
RECOMMENDED!
Poke throttle servo wire
through to wing bottom
and route to receiver
compartment
Servo should lie
EXACTLY halfway
into depth of wing.
set up servos now
You’ll install them later