TufFlight Bouncer User manual

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The Toughest R/C Planes Ever!
5376 Amalfi Drive, Clay, NY 13041 www.tufflight.com
Items Included in kit:
Foam Parts:
(1) right/left EPP wing cores in shucks
(2) EPP tail feathers sheets in shucks with wings
(1) EPP front fuselage piece
(1) EPP rear fuselage piece
Misc:
(1) 0.030” control horn plastic sheet
(1) clear mylar hinge sheet
(1) 1/32” G10 sheet
(1) 3/16” white plastic motor mount sheet
(2) 3/32” x 1/2” fiberglass LG struts
(2) 1/16” x 72” fiberglass rod
(1) 1/8” x 24" fiberglass rod
(1) popsicle stick
(1) 0.193” x 0.023” x 18” carbon
Hardware:
(4) Dubro mini EZ connectors
(2) main wheels
(1) tailwheel
(2) 6-32 x 3/8” nylon bolts
(2) 6-32 x 1-1/4” steel bolts
(6) 6-32 nuts
(1) 0.039” x 18” wire
(1) 1/16” x 7” wire
(3) zip ties
(12) O-rings #017
(1) Velcro strap
This Instruction Manual
Rev 1.6
Hello, and thanks for buying the Bouncer! Whether you’ve just entered the exciting world of radio control and 3D
flying, or you’re a seasoned veteran, the Bouncer is the perfect combination of agility, durability, versatility and value for the
school or front yard 3D flyer.
Caution: The Bouncer can be a very agile performer, and requires care in setup and operation. Please obey
manufacturer’s safety rules for your motor, propeller and battery. Lithium polymer (lipo) batteries are ideal for
this plane. Charge lipo batteries ONLY with a lithium capable charger according to battery instructions.
The CG location is 5-1/2” from the wing leading edge at the root.
(6-1/2” for expert)
While you may be tempted to fly close to yourself, please practice in a safe manner.
Please read and understand the instructions before starting to build. We recommend joining the AMA and
following the AMA safety code. Call 1 (800) I- FLY-AMA for more details.
We assume no responsibility for how you use your plane. That said, let's get started!
Excellent 3D capability
-plus-
Outstanding Durability
Wingspan: 40"
Length: 44"
Flying Weight: 24 oz
Motor: Himax HC3510-1100
brushless outrunner or
250 W equivalent
Radio: 4 channels
Servos: 4 (HS 65 or equivalent)
Wing Area: 429 sq in
Bouncer

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Items needed to complete:
Equipment:
Himax HC3510-1100 brushless outrunner
or 250 W equivalent
4 channel radio receiver
30 - 35A electronic speed control (ESC)
1200 mAH - 2200 mAH 3S Lipo battery
4 servos: Hitec 65 or equivalent
Parts:
props :
APC 11 x 3.8 Slo Flyer -or-
APC 11 x 5.5 E
(2) 12” servo wire extensions
connectors for ESC and battery
solder (if needed for connectors)
shrink tube (if needed for solder joints)
Adhesives:
Gorilla Glue (clear, dries white), small bottle
--and/or--
Quick Grip adhesive
(available at Walmart and Michaels crafts)
thin CA(regular, NOT foam safe)
CA accelerator (kicker)
masking tape
3M77 Spray adhesive
Helpful Tools:
40 grit sandpaper on block
(found at auto finishing stores and Sears)
hobby knife / utility knife
new single edge razor blade
scrap of sheet rock as a “cutting board”
soldering iron
Phillips head screwdriver
straight screwdrivers
long nose pliers
wire cutters
Drill with 7/64”, 9/64”, 1/8”, 1/16” bits
Dremel Tool w/ drum sander and cutoff wheel
razor saw
felt tip pen
ruler/straight edge
metal file
scissors
clamps
plastic wrap
flat building table, at least 3 ft long
lightweight decorations: airbrush (recommended)
Flight Trim:
The recommended center of gravity (CG) point is
5-1/2” from the LE at the wing root with the battery in-
stalled. Adjust by positioning the battery by moving the
G10 plate and velcro strap on the fuselage for the new
battery position.
A good test for an aerobatic CG position is to fly the
plane upright and trim the elevator for level flight. Then
fly inverted and see if any down elevator control is needed
to maintain level flight. If the plane also flys level in-
verted with very little down elevator, the CG is good
for 3D. The farther back your CG moves, the more
“twitchy” your elevator will get. For 3D It helps to have
40 to 50 degrees deflection on all surfaces and a rear-
ward CG. 30 to 50% expo may also be helpful on all
surfaces (Especially elevator). Adjust to your taste.
You may wish to check and adjust lateral balance.
It should be very close to neutral if built as shown.
For hints on flying 3D maneuvers, consult our web
site: http://www.tufflight.com/3d_faq.html
Notes on Crashing and Repairs:
You should be able to fix foam damage with Quick
Grip for fast field repairs. Apply Quick Grip to one sur-
face, join parts temporarily, pull apart to let dry for about
30 seconds (you should see “spider webs”) and then put
them back together. In a few minutes the joint will be
flight ready. Large damaged areas will benefit from Go-
rilla glue as it foams to fill voids.
Have Fun!
Remember, weight is the enemy, so keep repairs
light! If there's one thing we've learned, it's amazing how
much cosmetic damage can be "ignored" when a friend
shows up to fly.
We want you to have fun exploring the limits, but
please do so safely.
We welcome any feedback you may have on this or
other TufFlight products.
Please feel free to contact us:
take care and enjoy!
Mark & Joe

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Step 5: Mark center at the other end also
Step 4: Mark the aileron piece center at one
end as shown
Step 3: Sand and peel any “spider webs”
away from the foam.
Step 2: Carefully separate the wing parts from
the shucks as shown.
Step 1: Gather parts and tools. Step 6: With a new sharp hobby knife, slice
the ailerons apart on the center marks.
Step 7: Ailerons should be identical
Step 8: Align aileron to wing as shown
Step 9: TrimAileron to match wing angle
with sharp hobby knife as shown
Step 10: Make slicing tool from scrap wood
and razor blade exactly 0.350” thick
Assemble Wings
You’ll need : Foam wing pieces, mylar hinge sheet,
medium and thin CA, kicker,
hobby knife, scissors, razor blade, ruler,
cutting board, scrap wood,
scrap EPP / 40 grit sanding block
A scrap piece of
EPP may also be
used to “sand” off
the spider webs
The beveled
(pointed) edges
face each other

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Step 19: Flex the aileron to set the hinge gap
needed to provide adequate clearance.
Step 14: Slide mylar hinge into aileron as
shown
Step 13: Cut two 3/4” strips of mylar for
hinges
Step 12: Slice the aileron LE and wing TE with
tool as shown
Step 11: Glue razor blade to scrap wood as
shown
Step 18: Slide hinged aileron into wing as
shown.
Work
carefully
and press
all parts to
the bench
when
slicing
Step 17: Trim hinge at angle as shown to aid
insertion during next step
Step 16: Apply kicker to hinge.
Step 15: Apply thin CAto hinge on both sides Step 20: Once hinge gap ready, apply thin
CA and kicker while clamping with ruler
A ruler helps to
keep the hinge/
foam joint together
The hinge
gap should
be as small
as possible
while still
allowing full
deflection as
shown
After this
step, trim
hinge
material
even
with
root/tip
edges
mylar is
0.003”
thick and
comes
rolled in
“the
baggie”
Tape a
credit card
to the
mylar strip
to help
feed it into
the slit

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Step 30: Lay fiberglass rod into groove and
press down so it’s flush with surface.
Step 29: Apply white Gorilla Glue or Quick
Grip into slot as shown.
Step 28: (continuation) Slice from front to
rear as shown.
Step 27: Make a slice roughly 1/8” deep with
sharp knife connecting marks as shown.
Step 25: Mark fuselage front at center of
side “bulge”. Repeat for other side.
Step 21: Gather parts and tools.
Assemble Fuselage
You’ll need : Foam fuselage pieces, ruler,
white gorilla glue or quick grip glue,
scrap EPP / 40 grit sanding block,
sharp knife, 1/16” fiberglass rods, ruler
dremel tool /cutoff wheel
Step 22: Cut the fiberglass rods to produce
two (2) 39” and two (2) 33” pieces
Step 23: Glue front/rear fuse pieces together
and tape the joint while the glue cures.
Step 26: Mark fuselage above elevator slot
as shown. Repeat for other side.
Step 24: Sand and/or trim with a knife the
glue which squirts out of the joint
Work glue into
the entire slot
from nose to tail.
fiberglass rod
shown black in
pictures-- your
color may vary
Sand/
blend the
foam joint
for a
smooth
transition
as needed/
desired
You’ll use the 33”
pieces now. Save
the longer ones for
the wing later

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Step 35: Thread the 1/16” rods half way
through the slices as shown.
Step 34: Slice all the way through fuselage
at the marks as shown.
Step 33: Mark fuselage 9-15/16” from nose
as shown (both sides)
Step 36: Find spanwise index marks on
wings and slice 1/8” deep along these lines
Step 37: Insert wings between spars guiding
them into the slices to locate the wings.
Step 38: When satisfied with wing position,
tack glue wing front to fuselage where shown.
Step 39: Tack glue rear of wing similarly.
Step 40: Apply white gorilla glue or quick
grip into wing slots with an old credit card
Step 31: Work rod into slot. Rod will stay in
place once glue starts to set.
Repeat for
both sides.
Insure fuselage
is straight
while glue
cures.
Step 32: Gather parts and tools.
Join Wings to Fuselage
You’ll need : Assembled Foam fuselage and wings,
white gorilla glue or quick grip glue,
hobby knife, (2) 1/16” fiberglass rods,
tall blocks/supports, weights, ruler,
plastic wrap, medium CA, kicker
old credit card
(These should lie
3 - 15/16” from LE
at root, 2-7/8” from
LE at tip
Make 4 spanwise
slices-- one on
each wing surface)
Work
quickly
for this
and the
following
steps--
one wing
at a time
This
quickly
locks
wing into
position
for next
steps
measure from
FRONT-- not
motor cutout
use
medium
CA and
kicker

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Step 45: Apply weights while glue cures as
shown.
Step 44: Apply white gorilla glue or quick
grip into center wing/fuse joint as shown.
Step 43: Lay onto blocks upside down as
shown. Blocks should be taller than canopy.
Step 42: Wipe away any glue which squirts out
with acetone and paper towel.
Step 41: Work Spars into slots being careful
to center them along the span (other half too)
Step 48: Remove hex screws as shown
Step 49: Remove collar as shown.
Repeat for
all wing
spars
We use
two
identical
radio
boxes
Take care to
insure fuse is
perpendicular to
wing and things
look symmetrical
Step 47: Gather parts and tools.
Make Motor Mount
You’ll need : Himax HC3510-1100 or
equivalent w/ tools, and prop mount,
loc tite, 1/8”, 1/4”, 1/2” drills, saw,
motor mount white plastic, scissors,
paper motor mount template (“H”),
scrap wood, hammer or vise, knife, 3M77
Step 50: Remove washer and save in safe
place. Separate as shown.
Step 46: Prepare your chosen motor for
mounting
Note: In the following steps, the Himax motor is
shown which requires shaft reversal.
Your motor may not require this procedure.

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Step 53: Motor shaft should look like this.
Step 52: Press motor shaft forward (check
next photo to know when to stop)
Step 51: Insert motor shaft into wood block
as shown
Step 54: Re-assemble motor as shown.
Step 55: Loc tite all screws.
Step 56: Apply washer.
Step 57: Install wheel collar.
Step 58: Cut out “H” motor mount from
paper template as shown.
Step 60: Drill 1/8” holes where shown.
Step 59: Apply template to white plastic
sheet.
Using slow pressure
with a vise is
preferable if
available

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Step 63: Saw to remove “H” insides as
shown.
Step 62: Drill 1/4” holes where indicated at
“H” corners
Step 61: Drill central 1/2” hole where
indicated.
Step 64: Saw to remove “H” insides as shown.
A band or scroll saw may also be used.
Step 65: Round edges with knife or disc
sander as shown
Step 66: Deburr corners of holes
Step 67: Test fit motor to “H” mount and
adjust holes if needed.
Step 70: Cut tail parts from foam sheets
with sharp knife
Step 69: Remove any spider webs from
foam. Apply templates
Step 68: Gather parts and tools.
Make Tail Parts
You’ll need : Foam sheets, new sharp hobby knife,
paper templates, 3M77, carbon strip,
white gorilla glue or quick grip, ruler,
cutting board, mylar hinge material,
clamps, assembled wing/fuselage
A band or scroll
saw may also be
used if available
*Note, cutouts are
NOT identical
Top cutout is
smaller than
bottom -- label Top
/ bottom to avoid
confusion later
Note wires route
on left side of
fuselage
(fuselage dowels
won’t be
installed yet at
this point)

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Step 75: Glue the two elevator and stab
halves together as shown.
Step 74: Slice the rear fuselage for the 3/4”
hinges also
Step 73: Make slices for 3/4” wide mylar
hinges as indicated.
Step 72: Slice the elevator and horizontal stab
where shown for the carbon stiffeners.
Step 71: Cut two elevators from the same
template.
Step 76: Bevel the rudder and elevator to
allow desired deflection
Step 77: Cut two 9” carbon pieces.
Step 78: Glue the carbon stiffeners into the
elevator and horizontal stab as shown.
Step 79: Glue the mylar hinge into the
elevator and horiz stab with thin CA.
Step 80: Center the assembled horizontal
stabilizer/ elevator into the fuselage as shown
You can re-use the
aileron hinge
slicer if you sand it
thinner to center it
to the tail parts
Use a
technique
similar to
how you
hinged the
ailerons.

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