TufFlight Tiger User manual

Page1
5376AmalfiDrive, Clay, NY 13041 www.tufflight.com
Items Included in kit:
Foam Parts:
EPPfuseblocksinshucks(Front,Rear, Middle)
wingcoresinshucks(right/left)
Wood / Plastic Parts:
3/16" balsa sheet
(2) pine blocks
5miltailskinlaminatingplastic(flexible)
10milwingskinlaminatingplastic(stiff)
10milLEwraplaminatingplastic(flexible)
(1)5mil thrust tube sheet
(1) 1/8" lasercut parts sheet(intake / nose parts)
(2)moldednosehalves(right/left)
(1) 1/16" x 1-1/2'' x 9" clear plastic
(1) 0.015" intake wrapplasticsheet
(1) 0.040” intake"V"clearplasticmaterial
(1)Dixiecuptailcone
Hardware:
(1) 6-32 blind nut
(3) 6-32 nylon screws (2 extra)
(2) 1/8” x 5-1/2"elevaxle wire
(1) 1/8” IDx 4" brasselev axle tube
(2)elevcontrolhorntiller
(2) 3mmx5mmelevtillerscrew
(2)Sullivanmetal clevis
(1)8"Sullivan yellowinnernyrod
(2) push rods threaded 1 end
(8)magnets
(3) #64 rubber bands
This Instruction Manual
Rev1.0
Hello,andthanksfor buying theTiger--anexcitingsportelectricductedfan(EDF)poweredplaneofferinggreat
performanceanduncommon durabilityfortheadvancedR/Cflyer.
Caution: The Tiger is a very fast plane capable of 90 mph+ speeds, and requires care in setup and operation.
Please obey safety rules for your motor and battery and flying site. It is assumed the builder and flyer have
experience in high energy EDF power systems and flight and are familiar with high power lithium polymer battery
installations before attempting to assemble and operate this plane.
Please read and understand the instructions before starting to build. We recommend joining the AMA and
following the AMA safety code. Call 1 (800) I- FLY-AMA for more details.
We assume no responsibility for how you use your plane. That said, let's get started!
Wingspan: 30"
WingArea: 243sqin
Length: 44"
Flying Weight: ~3lb depending on power system
The Toughest R/C Planes Ever!
igig
igig
igerer
erer
er
Fan: 70mm OD
Radio: 3+channels,elevonmix (deltawing)capability,
optionalrudder
Servos: (2) Hitec HS 85 MG or equivalent
(1)thinservo if rudder desired (HS 125 MG)

Page2
Items needed to complete:
Equipment:
70mmfan/motor
~3300 mAH 4S to 6S LiPo battery
ESC / BEC
RX
(2)mini/microservos(HS 85 MGideal)
(metalgearservosHIGHLYrecommend to
avoidstrippedgears)
(1)optionalrudderservo (HS 125 MG ideal)
Battery/ESCconnectorsasdesired
Adhesives:
thinandmediumCA
CAaccelerator(kicker)
GooporShoeGoo (any variety)
Gorillaor“Sumo”glue(white/clearvariety)
GorillaorElmer’s“Nano”glue(ambervariety)
3M77Sprayadhesive
15or30minuteepoxy
maskingtape
scotchtape
BalsaRite(ornitratedope)
Covering/Paint:
Ultracote
(1/4rollandtrimasdesiredforfuselage)
primer/filler/paintasdesiredsuitableforplastic
nose,wingand tailsurfaces
lightweightspacklefiller(Dap,RedDevil)
microballoonsfiller
HelpfulTools:
40gritsandpaperon block
(availableatautofinishingstores
and Sears)
40,80, 100, 200 grit sandingtools
smallrattailfile
finefelttippen
scissors
curved“lexancutting”scissors (forcarbodies)
12”ruler/straightedge
4footlong ruler/straightedge
anglefinder
hobbyknife
utilityknife
scrapof sheet rock as a “cuttingboard”
plasticwrap(Glad,Saran, etc.)
heatgun
coveringiron
solderingiron
solder
soldering“jig”(ie, extrapairofhands)
3mmhexwrench
straight/phillipsscrewdrivers
standardpliers
longnosepliersorforceps
tweezers
Zbendpliers
wirecutters
hammer
vise
weights/supportblocks
Drillwith#25(0.15”),5/32”,9/64”,3/16” bits
DremelToolw/drumsander,cutoffwheel
DremelToolrouterattachment
atomizerwaterbottle
petroleumjelly
rubbingalcohol
laquerthinner
scotchbritepad
acidbrushes
popsiclesticks
chopsticks/bamboo skewers
1/2”and1/4”dowels
vacuumwithlongsoftbristleattachment
flatbuildingtable, atleast4ftlong

Page3
Step5:Continuetracingoutallelevatorand
verticalfinparts
Step4:Tracearoundthetemplates onto the
laminatingfilm(shinyside).
Step3: Cut out the elevatorandverticalfin
templatestotheouterlineas shown.
Step2:Remove thecenterfoldtemplatesfrom
themanual.
Step10:Continue for allbalsatailparts
Step9:Tracearoundtemplatesonto balsa
sheetasshown
Step8:Trimthefinandelevatortemplates
toinneroutlinefor balsaparts.
Step 7:Wipe / cleanoffpenmarks
Step6:Cutoutlaminatepiecesasshown.Step 1: Gatherpartsand tools
Make tail parts using paper templates
You’ll need : centerfold template pages, pen,
scissors, hobby knife, razor saw,
balsa sheet, medium CA, kicker,
plastic wrap, 5 mil laminating film
(second longest piece)
Use the layout
diagrams on the
templates to
insure they all fit
Be sure to note
“right” and “left”
halves (laminate
has one adhesive
side)
alcohol helps to
remove pen marks
Use the layout
diagrams on the
templates to
insure they all fit

Page4
Step15:Mark theverticalfinroughly1/3
fromtheLEontipandroot
Step 14:Press parts together and apply
kicker
Step13:ApplyCAtomatingfinpiecesas
shown
Step 12:Sand edges as needed wherethey join
togetherforanice fit.
Step 20:Gather parts andtools.
Step19:Sideviewshowingairfoilshape
Step 18: Sand the LE round and TE to a
“knife”point
Step17:Scribeacenterlinearoundtheentire
perimeterofthefin.
Step 16:Connectthese marks (repeat for
bothsides)
Step11: Cut balsa pieces along linesas
shown
Apply laminating film to vertical fin
You’ll need : covering iron, iron thermometer,
balsa vertical fin, ruler, small scissors,
vertical fin laminations(2)
These marks are
for sanding guides
later on
Note extreme
taper with thickest
point at 1/3
chordline
The fragile thin TE
will be protected
by plastic
laminations which
extend beyond TE
and adhere to
themselves

Page5
Step 25:Iron the LE aroundthefront as
showntotheotherside.
Step 24:Trimthe LE so as to give 3/8”
overlap
Step 23:Smoothoutfilmtoedges (do not
wrapfilmaroundanyedgesyet)
Step22:Iron thelaminatingfilmtothefinas
shownstartingfrom centeroutward.
Step 28:Repeat steps for other sideofthefin
lamination.
Step 30:To get a nice sharp edge, apply a
rulertotheTEimmediatelyafteriron
Step29:NowirontheTElaminations
togethersothegluesides meet well
Step27:RevisitLE,andtipedgestoironthem
downtightasneeded.
Step26:Trimthetipandrootedgesonly
flushwiththe balsawithscissorsorknife.
Step21: Preheat your iron to 250 deg F.
Give yourself at
least 3/8” extra at
the LE and center
the piece
otherwise.
Film will shrink
only slightly but
take care not to
warp the part as
you proceed
Leave the TE
alone for now
Do NOT trim the
TE edge yet!
This cools the
edge while
holding it straight
against a flat
surface

Page6
Step 35:Scribea line on one sideofthe
rudderconnectingthemarks.
Step34:Usingfintemplate,markthe
locationoftherudderasshown.
Step 33:Gather parts and toolsifrudder
controldesired.
Step32:TrimtheTE leaving about 1/16”
beyondthebalsa.
Step40:Cutawaythelaminationskinstripas
shown.
Step 39:Now scribe another lineabout3/
16”towardtheLE fromthefirstline.
Step38:Whenyou’vecutdeepenough,
flextheruddertosnapitfree.
Step37: Carefully extendcutintobalsabeing
carefulNOTto touchbottomlamination
Step36:Carefully cutthroughthetopskin
alongthelinewithknifeasshown.
Step31: Checkthefinforstraightness-adjust
withheatand slightpressureifnecessary
OPTIONALRudder
You’ll need : pen, sharp hobby knife, ruler,
medium CA, sanding block (100 grit)
Using a finger as a
“depth gauge”
helps avoid
cutting the other
side
It’s ok if the balsa
breaks unevenly--
we’ll fix that later.

Page7
Step45:Measure axle wire 1” from end
Step 44:Gather parts andtools.
Step43:ApplymediumCA to the hinge
areaand wipe clean. Setaside to cure.
Step42:Carefullysandawaythebalsatogive
relieftothe ruddermotion.
Step 50:Bend both wires10 degrees
Step 49:Placewiresinviseas shown at
marks.
Step48: Using elevator template,mark
locationofsecondbendasshown.
Step 47:Bendtoright angle as shown. Repeat
forotherwire.
Step 46:Bend the wire overina vise at the
1”mark.
Step 41: Foldthehinge all the way backon
itselfasshown.
Make elevators (stabilators)
You’ll need : 1/8” wire axles, hammer, vise,
angle finder, sanding block, pen, pencil,
covering iron, iron thermometer,
balsa elevators, ruler, Dremel tool
gorilla glue, water, plastic wrap, weights,
elevator laminations (4)
Be careful NOT to
sand through skin
hinge!
Just sand the
balsa and an
angle
After glue cures,
flex and sand as
needed to free the
hinge.
Do for other wire
also which should
be a mirror image
when finished.

Page8
Step 55:Nowmake a groove intheaxle
markstofitthe axles.
Step54:Leftandrightaxlesmarked
Step53:Align axles to your marks and trace
locationasshown.
Step52:Usingtheelevatortemplates,poke
throughtothewoodpiecestolocateaxles
Step60:Apply amberGorillaglueintothe
grooveasshown.
Step59:Squirtsomewater into the groove
asshown.
Step58:Roughuptheaxleswheretheyfit
intothebalsa.
Step57:Test fit the axles into the grooves and
adjustgrooveasneededfornicefit.
Step56:Close-upshowingaxlegroove
takingshape
Step51: Now prepare balsa elevators as
youdidforthe rudder steps.
DO NOT laminate
them yet!
Just get them
sanded nicely.
A Dremel tool with
router attachment
is perfect for this
task.
A knife and small
file will also work
fine
Do NOT sand the
other end!
(only where the
balsa will be
glued)
Note: Instead of
Gorilla Glue, epoxy
may be used. Skip
this step if using
epoxy.
(Gorilla glue sands
much better)
Any amber colored
polyurethane glue
will work.
Elmers “Nano”
glue is shown here.

Page9
Step65:Nowapplylaminationstotheeleva-
torsasyoudidfor the verticalfin.
Step64:Sandthejointflushasshown.
Step63:Aftergluefullycured,trimglue
whichfoamsupandsqueezes out.
Step62:Repeatforbothelevatorsandweight
downusingplasticwrap as shown.
Step70:Gentlypryaparttheshucksbeing
carefulnottotear thefragileTE.
Step 69:Getoneof the wing shucks and
holditsotheTEfacesyouasshown.
Step 68:Gather parts andtools.
Step67:Finishandrepeatforbothelevator
halves.
Step 66:Trim andwraptheLEinthesame
wayalso
Step61: Applyaxleintothegroove.
Make wing
You’ll need : wing cores and shucks, pen, sanding block,
brand new hobby knife blade, scissors,
covering iron, iron thermometer, water,
ruler, pine block, white gorilla glue,
wing lamination sheets (large / small),
masking tape, small pliers/forceps
We want to protect
the “knife edge”
TE of the wing
core at all costs!

Page10
Step75:Transferthemarkstothe“thinside”
andcutalong thislinewithasharpknife
Step74:Marktherootedgesimilarly
Step 73:Mark the shuck at the tip edge as
shown
Step72:Carefullyliftoutthecoreandsetaside.
Step80:Markthetipssimilarly.
Step 79:Laycores with tips so LEcorners
areperfectlyalignedasshown.
Step78: Mark both cores at theTE at the
shortestone.
Step77:Lay the cores together as shown with
theLEcorners perfectlyaligned.
Step 76:Separate the shuckas shown.Step 71: Gentlyusea ruler to free theTE
fromtheshucksasneeded.
This provides top
and bottom
“beds” to hold the
cores while you
work on them.

Page11
Step85:Vacuumanyremainingfuzzfromthe
shucksandcores.
Step 84:Usinga “scotch brite” pad, care-
fullyremovefuzzfromshucksandcores
Step83:Hereyousee the very thin foam
removed Repeatfor other core.
Step 82:With core in thebottombedand ruler,
carefullyslicealongalineconnectingyourmarks.
Step90: Heat iron to 250 F. If you don’t
havethermometer, testlaminateandfoam
Step89:Youcancuttheremainingedges
withscissorsifyou wish, oruseaknife.
Step88:CuttheLElaminationsusing a
straightedgeandhobbyknife as shown.
Step87:Be sure to make left and rights!
Step 86:Usingthecore as a guide, lay out
laminationpanelsandtraceasshown.
Step 81: Nowis the time toreplaceyour
hobbyknifeblade!
Don’t skip this
step!
You need a brand
new sharp blade
to get a clean cut
in the next strip.
When working on
the core, be
careful not to
gouge an edge,
swipe from center
OUTWARD
The foam will melt
if the iron is too
hot, so test on a
scrap piece to be
sure the laminate
glue softens and
sticks, but the
foam does not melt

Page12
Step95:Trimthecoretipwithscissorsas
shown.
Step94:Usingastraightedgehelpsit cool
straightasshown.
Step93:Carefullyironthelaminate toward
thecore TE as shown.
Step92:Coolingwithastraightedgehelpskeep
theLEdownon the curved portion of the core
Step100: Cut 2 stripsofflexibleLElaminate
wrap 1” at one end tapered to 1/2”
Step 99:TrimtheTE ofboth cores to these
marksasshown.
Step 98:MarkthetipTElocationsalso.
Step 97:Laythe root edges togetherandmark
theTEtoeven them out as before.
Step 96:Trimthecorerootwithscissorsas
shown. Repeatstepsforother surface.
Step91: With core inshuck,alignlaminate
LE1/8shy of the core LE andirondown.
Work iron
similarly to how
you did the tail
parts.
Avoid heating one
area too long to
avoid deformation
Don’t iron all the
way to the edge
yet so it won’t
stick to the shuck.
Leave the TE
untrimmed for now
as you did for the
tail parts.

Page13
Step 105:Test the fit of therootedges for
dihedralangle(flat ontopsurfaceshown)
Step 104:Trim / sand the root edgestogive
aslightdihedralandcleanedge.
Step 103:Iron it down to wrap it to the top
andbottomsurfaces.
Step 102:Centerthe LE strip and ironitto the
wingcoreasshown.
Step110:Test fit the block and removefoam
asneeded.
Step 109:Removefoambetweenmarksto
makea pocket forthe block.
Step108:Holdwingstogetherandtransfer
markstotheotherhalfasshown.
Step 107:Use pine block tomarkwing roots
centeredonthemark as shown.
Step 106:Measure 2-12” fromTE and
markbothwingrootedgecentersasshown
Step101: Affixthe small end to the tip LE
asshown
Dihedral angle is
only flat” on the
top surface. Alter
to your taste as
desired.
Laying wings
upside down on
table with rear TE
propped up about
1/2” gives a “flat”
top surface and
slight dihedral
Block fits halfway
into each wing
core as shown.

Page14
Step115: Continue taping top and bottom
surfacesasshown.
Step114:Tape wing halves together as
shown.
Step 113: Spray watertoactivateglue and
mixintoglue.
Step112:Applywhitegorillaglue towingroots
andpocket as shown.
Step 120:Marka 12” wide piece of laminate
1”at both ends.
Step119: Sandtherootsurfacesslightlyto
gentlyroughenandeventhemout.
Step118:Trimbothsidesflush
Step117:Aftergluehascuredcarefullytrim
awayanyglue whichsquirtedout.
Step116:Place wing upside down on
plasticwrapandweightwhilegluedries.
Step 111: Insert the block andcheck the fit
onelasttimebefore gluing. Trimas needed.
The gorilla glue in
the next step will
expand to fill
small voids up to
1/8” easily, but try
to get a good joint
with small gaps if
possible
The TE center
should NOT touch
the table. It should
be about 1/2” to 3/
4” away from the
table. Use a shim
and weights to hold
this angle.
80 grit paper on a
narrow block
works well here--
Only sand the
center 1” wide
section
This will be to
cover the wing
center seam.

Page15
Step125: Remove the front intakeframe
piecesfromthepartssheet.
Step 124:Gather parts andtools.
Step123:Trim thestripsevenwiththeLE
andTEasshownwithscissors.
Step122:Ironthestripcenteredon the wing
seamasshown(top and bottom).
Step130:Removefoaminslicedareaas
shown. Repeatforotherside.
Step129:Sliceagrooveforthenyrodalong
thisline
Step 128:Open the fuse sectionand
connectthemarkswithruler and pen
Step 127:Markcenterof wing bulkhead area
centerasshown (halfwayinthickness).
Step126:Align one of the pieces to the fuse
andmarkholelocationas shown.
Step121: Cut the strip 1” wide. Make two
strips.
Start the front intake fuselage section
You’ll need : hobby knife, scissors, water, scotch tape,
ruler, white gorilla glue, masking tape,
front intake plastic sheet and template,
front intake frame pieces, weights, clamps,
clamps, nyrod, foam fuse front section,
1/16” clear plastic, saw, popsicle stick
Note one frame is
slightly smaller
than the other
around the intake
rims-- this will be
the “front” piece
repeat for both
sides of “split”
Just make wide
enough to clear
the yellow nyrod
2 diagonal slices
are sufficient

Page16
Step135:Test fit the nyrod intothebulkhead
holeandenlargeasneededforagood fit.
Step134:Aligntheremainder1/16”plastic
tobottomedgeanddrillholeasshown.
Step133:Drilltheholeatthedotlocation
witha#25drillasshown.
Step132:Cutalongthelinetomakethewing
frontbulkhead. Savetheremainder.
Step140:Cuttheintaketemplatefromthe
sheet.
Step 139:Splicethis piece to the edgeof
thetemplatetothemarkswhere indicated.
Step138:Cutthesmallpiecefromthe
centeroftheintaketemplatesheet.
Step137:Marktheremainingnyrodat1-3/4”
fromoneend.
Step 136:Cut the nyrodat 1-3/4” from one
end. Savethesmallpieceforlater.
Step 131: Placethe 1/16” clear plasticto
thefuseandtraceoutlineas shown.
Also mark the
location of the dot
A band saw helps
here.
Be sure to cut
OUTSIDE the line
(leave a little to
sand closely later)
This will be the
wing front plate
Set this aside for
later

Page17
Step145:Mistgluedareawithwater
Step144:Insertnyrodintogroovewith
markevenwithfront offoamasshown
Step143:Applywhitegorilla glue toarea
shown.
Step142:Cut the sheet with scissors. Cleanoff
thelineswhenfree.
Step 150:Mist area with waterand spread
thegluewitha popsiclestick.
Step149: Smear a layerofwhitegorillaglue
totheentireinsideintakeareaasshown.
Step148:Applythewing front bulkhead
andholdinplacewithtape.
Step147:Apply glue and water mist to the
wingfrontbulkheadarea as shown.
Step146:Wrap the fuse areasecurelywith
maskingtapetoclamp thejointshut.
Step 141: Applythetemplate to the sheet
andtrace around the border.
This and following
steps must be done
in quick succession
before the glue in
each step cures
Read ahead to
familiarize yourself

Page18
Step 155:Check and adjust the rear also to
insuretheoverlapisnearthe center.
Step 154:Besure the intake sheetwraps
withaslight overlapasshowninthefront
Step 153:Use the spare foam to press the
intakeinplace.
Step152:Placetheintakesheetwiththeseam
overlapareatowardthenyrodinthecenter
Step160: Grind a notch intothetubehalfway
tothemark as shown.
Step 159:Mark the brass tube to the width
ofthetillerarmasshown
Step 158:Gather parts andtools.
Step 157:Support the bulkheadasshown and
applyweightstocenterfoamarea
Step156:Applytapeandclampstowing
bulkheadtoholditstraightwhilegluecures
Step 151: Wrap theintake sheet as shown
toprepareitforinsertion.
Be careful not to
warp the bulkhead
under uneven
pressure-- just make
sure it doesn’t
separate when the
glue foams up
two blocks make a
good support to
clear the intake
sheet which
protrudes below
Don’t forget the
weights!
Proceed to rear fuselage
You’ll need : rear fuselage section, 3M77, mineral spirits,
pen, ruler, hobby knife, 5/32”drill
white gorilla glue, brass tube, 5mm screws,
elevator tiller arms, 1/16” plastic,
Dremel tool/cutoff wheel, CA, kicker,
assembled elevators, water, popsicle stick
Don’t make the
notch too wide or
deep, it is for the
screw in the next
step

Page19
Step 165:Splitopen the rear fuse toapply
mediumCAandthenclampitshut.
Step164:Finishedbushingandtillerparts.
Maketwobushings.
Step163:Cutthebushingatthe mark.
Step 162:Test fit the screwand adjust hole as
neededforagood fit.
Step 170:Cut out the elevator support
templateandapplytothe1/16”plastic
Step169:Mark the brass tube 2-3/4” and
trimthetubetothislengthwithcutoffwheel.
Step168:Connectyourmarkswitharuler
Step167:Repeatforotherelevatorhalf
Step166:Alignelevatortorearfuselageas
showntomarkaxlelocation on fusebottom
Step 161: Enlargethenotchtobe a round
holetofitthescrew withknife as shown.

Page20
Step175:Cutouttheslotwith a sharp knife
asshown.
Step 174:Use the support hole to mark a
depthonfuselagesideasshown.
Step173:Cleanoffany3M77residuewith
mineralspirits.
Step172:Cuttheelevatorsupportsalong the
templatelines.
Step180:Work the glue into the grooves with
apopsiclestick.
Step179:Applywhitegorillaglue tothe
grooveandslotsasshown.
Step 178:Slice a groove forthesupports
withsharpknife asshown
Step 177:Insert the brasstube, and mark
locationforelevsupportsasshown.
Step 176:Adjusttheslotas needed to fitthe
brasstube.
Step171: Drilltheholeswitha5/32”bit
This will be for a
slot to fit the brass
tube
A Dremel tool and
router attachment
may also be used.
Center the tube in
the fuselage, and
place a support
about 1/8” from
each end
Test fit brass tube/
support assembly
into grooves and
deepen them so
the support sits
flushto fuse
bottom