U.S. Brig Niagara User manual

MODEL SHIPWAYS KIT NO. MS2240
U.S. BRIG
Niagara
INSTRUCTION MANUAL
TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS
SCALE: 3/16" = 1' (1:64)
Overall length: 43"
Overall height: 27"
Overall width: 11"

2
The original Niagara was Commodore Oliver Hazard Perry's second flagship during the Battle of Lake Erie on
September 10, 1813. His victory over the British secured the Northwest Territory, opened supply lines, and lifted
the nation's morale.
Six ships in Perry's fleet of nine, including Niagara, were built in Erie, Pennsylvania. To accomplish the task,
shipwrights, block makers, caulkers, boatbuilders, and laborers were recruited from Pittsburgh, Philadelphia,
and elsewhere. Material was brought in from all over the country.
The Navy assigned ship master Daniel Dobbins of Erie to direct construction until experienced builders arrived.
In February 1813, Noah Brown, a New York shipbuilder, was hired to complete the construction. He also
designed two of the four schooners and the brigs, Niagara and Lawrence.
On March 27, 1813, Commodore Perry took command of the American naval forces at Lake Erie. When the
famous battle began six months later, Perry was aboard Lawrence, his flagship. He was soon engaged in a tremen-
dous battle with the main strength of the British line. However, for more than two hours Commander Jessie
Elliott kept Niagara well removed from the action, content to lob shots at his adversary with two 12-pound long
guns. After two-and-three-quarter hours of murderous gunfire, Lawrence was "one confused heap of horrid
ruins." Perry gave up his flagship and was rowed to Niagara where he continued to attack. Two-and-a-half hours
later, Perry returned to the shattered Lawrence, went to his cabin, and penned a quick message to General
Harrison: "We have met the enemy and they are ours — Two Ships, two Brigs, one Schooner and one Sloop."
After the War of 1812, Niagara served as a station ship in Erie until 1820. Then she was scuttled in Misery Bay.
For the centennial of the battle, Erie citizens raised the hulk and rebuilt the ship. Another restoration began in
1931, but the Depression slowed progress. The hull was completed in 1943 and masts installed in 1963. By 1988,
Niagara was again deteriorating. The Pennsylvania Historical and Museum Commission hired Melbourne
Smith, a world-famous naval architect, to redesign the entire ship and direct construction. Niagara was
relaunched on the battle's 175th anniversary. Only a few original timbers remain in the hull, and these are used
in non-structural locations. The reconstruction was completed in 1990.
The new Niagara hull length is 123 feet with a 32 foot beam. Draft at the stern is 10 feet 3 inches, and she dis-
places 297 tons. The tons burthen (old measure) is 492 60/95 tons. In 1813, the ship carried 155 officers and men,
and was armed with eighteen 32-pounder carronades and two long 12-pounders. Today, 40 professionals and
volunteers man Niagara and four replica carronades comprise her ordnance.
Niagara is operated by the Pennsylvania Historical and Museum Commission, with the assistance of the
Flagship Niagara League, a non-profit associate group. The ship sails daily and serves as the Commonwealth's
goodwill ambassador. She is the centerpiece of a new maritime museum in Erie, Pennsylvania.
For more history on Niagara and the War of 1812, refer to the bibliography.
HIST
HISTOR ORY Y
Photo Courtesy of
Melbourne Smith

3
T
TABLE OF ABLE OF CONTENTS CONTENTS
Brief History 2
Introduction and Credits 4
Before You Begin 5
Tools Needed To Start Construction 5
How to Work With Plans And Parts 6,7
Painting and Staining The Model 8,9
Stage 1: Framing the Plank-on-Bulkhead Hull 10
1. Bending Wood 10
2. Center Keel Assembly 10
3. Installing the Keel, Stem, and Sternpost 10
4. Cutting the Rabbet 10
5. Installing the Bulkheads 10,11
6. Installing the Stern Blocks
and Transom Framing 12
7. Installing the Bow Filler Blocks 12
8. Covering the Mast Slots 12
9. Installing the Waterway and Planksheer 12
10. Installing the Knightheads
and Forward Timberheads 13
11. Installing the Main Rail and Chock Rail 13
12. Framing Around the Gunports and Sweep Ports 13
Stage 2: Planking the Plank-on-Bulkhead Hull 14
1. Getting Started 14
2. Planking Battens and Belts 14
3. Planking Butts 15
4. Spiling 15
5. Fastening the Planks 15
6. Outer Hull Planking 16,17
7. Ceiling (Inboard) Planking 18
8. Deck Planking 18
Stage 3: Completing the Basic Hull Stucture 18
Stage 4: Mounting the Hull 19
1. Mounting Board with Two Pedestals 19
2. Launching Ways 19
Stage 5: Adding Hull Details 19
1. Locating Deck Fittings and Structures 19
2. Deck Structures 19
3. Hatches, and Grating 20
4. Boarding Ladders 20
5. Galley Stack 20
6. Capstan 20
7. Fife Rails and Riding Bitts 20
8. Pin Rails 20
9. Bilge Pumps 20
10. Scuppers 20
11. Catheads and Anchors 21
12. Mooring Cleats 21
13. Hawse Pipes 21
14. Eyebolts and Cleats 21
15. Cannons 21
16. Rudder and Tiller 22
17. Boat Davits and Slides 22
18. Ship's Boats 22,23
19. Ship's Name 23
20. Hammock Rails and Stanchions 23
21. Channels 23
22. Sweeps 23
Stage 6: Mast and Spar Construction 24
1. Shaping and Tapering Masts and Spars 24
2. Building and Installing the Masts 24,25
3. Building and Installing the Bowsprit,
Jibboom, Flying Jibboom, Spritsail Yard,
and Dolphin Striker 25,26
4. Building the Yards 26
5. Building the Spanker Gaff and Boom 26
Stage 7: General Rigging and Sailmaking 27,28
1. Rigging Options 28
2. Rigging Plans 28
3. Rigging Line and Block Sizes 28
4. Treating the Lines 28
5. Belaying Pins, Cleats and Their Lines 29
6. Rigging Tools 29
7. Blocks, Hearts, Bullseyes, and Deadeyes 29
8. Sailmaking 29,30
9. Rigging the Model with No Sails or Furled Sails 31
Stage 8: Installing Standing Rigging 31
1. Shrouds 31
2. Backstays 31,32
3. Fore and Aft Stays 32,33
4. Bowsprit Rigging 33
5. Footropes, Fixed Lifts, and Cranelines 34
Stage 9: Installing Sails and Running Rigging 34
1. Fore Staysails (Head Sails) 34,35
2. Main Staysails 35
3. Spanker 35
4. Fore and Main Course Yards 36
5. Fore and Main Topsail Yards 36
6. Fore and Main Topgallant and Royal Yards 37
7. Spritsail Yard 37
8. Miscellaneous Rigging 37
Final Touches 37
Bibliography 38
Scale Conversion Table 38
Rigging Line Diameters 38
Modeler's Log 39,40

4
Instruction Manual
U.S. Brig
Niagara
1813 –1990
Plans and Instructions
by Ben Lankford
Model by William Hitchcock
Model Shipways developed the Niagara kit in 1996. Plans are based on the 1990 reconstruction drawings,
research sketches, and specifications prepared and supplied by the designer, naval architect Melbourne
Smith, International Historical Watercraft Society, Annapolis, Maryland. Many as-built features deviating
from the plans are incorporated. These are based on visits to the brig and photographs. In addition to pro-
viding invaluable design information, Smith reviewed Model Shipways' plans for accuracy.
Modern features, such as engines and a housing over the exhaust system, are not included to maintain
Niagara's 1813 configuration.
© 1998
Model Shipways, A Division of Model Expo, Inc.
Hollywood, FL 33020
Photo Courtesy
of Melbourne Smith

5
Before You Begin
Tools Needed To Start Construction
Niagara is a beautiful, interesting ship and makes a splendid model. Assembling the plank-on-bulkhead hull develops
an understanding of how real ships are built, while laser-cut parts assure an accurate shape. The kit contains more than
150 laser-cut wood parts.
Although britannia, brass, and wood fittings facilitate construction, many require final finishing prior to installation.
This is especially true for the britannia castings and is discussed later.
Take your time building this model. It has a fair amount of detail and small parts. Furthermore, the rigging is fairly compli-
cated. Complete one stage before moving to the next. When things go awry, consider doing them over. A second attempt
usually surpasses the first. Practice does make perfect.
The following items are recommended. Those who have modeled before may have their favorites.
A. Knives and Saws
1. Hobby knife
2. #11 blades
3. Razor saw or jeweler’s saw
B. Files
1. Set of needle files
C. Clamps
1. A few small C-clamps
2. Wooden spring-type clothes pins
(craft shops have small versions)
3. #16 and #33 rubber bands
D. Carving Tools
Small woodcarving set, or individual
gouges and chisels for carving keel
rabbets, bow and stern filler blocks,
ship's boats, and tapering the stem
and rudder.
E. Sharpening Stone
Keeps tools razor sharp.
F. Boring Tools
1. #60 to #80 miniature bits
2. 1/16”, 3/32”, and 1/8” bits
3. Pin vise
G. Miscellaneous
1. Tack hammer
2. Tweezers (a few)
3. Small, fine pointed scissors
4. Miniature pliers
a. round nose
b. flat nose
5. Small bench vise
6. Soldering iron or torch
a. solder
b. flux
7. Sewing thread for seizing
(other rigging in kit)
a. black
b. tan
8. Beeswax block
(for treating rigging lines)
9. 1/2” or 3/4” wide masking tape
10. Wire cutters (for cutting fine wire
and strip metal)
H. Sandpaper
1. Fine and medium grit
garnet or #100 to #200
aluminum oxide
2. #400 wet-or-dry sandpaper
I. Sail cloth
Light weave cotton or linen cloth for
sails. Model Expo sells a suitable
cotton cloth.
J. Finishing
1. Paintbrushes
a. Fine point for details
b. 1/4” to 1/2” flat square for hull
K. Supplies
1. Paints
2. Primer
3. Stains and varnish
4. White (polyvinyl acetate or PVA) or
woodworker’s glue (aliphatic resin)
5. Cyanoacrylates (generic name is
Super Glue)
6. Five-minute epoxy
7. Wood filler
Note: White or woodworker’s glue in yellow
or tan will suffice for most of the model.
Five-minute epoxy provides extra strength
for affixing fittings. Cyanoacrylates, such as
Jet, Flash, or Zap, produce quick adhesion.
For most applications, the medium viscosity,
gap-filling variety is best. The thin type is
recommended for filling a narrow crack and
tacking bulkheads to the keel or planking to
the bulkheads.
BELFRY AT BOW

6
How To Work With Plans And Parts
Before starting the model, carefully
examine the kit and study the plans.
First, determine if all the listed parts are
present. Handling them will produce a
better understanding of the kit's require-
ments. Try to visualize how every piece
will look on the model. Also, determine
ahead of time what must be done first.
The instructions will help, but a thor-
ough knowledge of the plans at the out-
set is essential.
To avoid losing small fittings and hard-
ware, sort them into labeled boxes or
compartments. These should have lids to
keep out dirt.
1. The Plans
Six sheets are provided:
1. Laser-Cut Wood Patterns
2. Plank-on-Bulkhead Hull
Construction
3. Hull Plan and Profiles
4. Hull and Spar Details
5. Rigging Profile
6. Rigging Sections and Details
Sketches throughout the manual illus-
trate various construction techniques.
The Niagara kit is manufactured to a
scale of 3/16" = 1'0" (1:64). Each plan
sheet is drawn to that scale, except areas
enlarged to show detail. Most dimen-
sions can be lifted directly off the plans
by using draftsman dividers or a "tick"
strip (piece of paper such as an adding
machine roll). Lay the paper strip over
the plan, carefully mark the item's
length with a sharp pencil, then transfer
the marks to the wood.
A3/16" architect's or 1:64 metric scale is a
handy tool. Measuring and cutting parts
using the scale gives a better feel for real
sizes. Because these are modelbuilders'
plans, actual measurements were con-
verted to the nearest 1/64". For example,
a 7/64" block is 7" on the real ship.
Measurements on the plans are in inches,
but Sheet 3 contains a conversion table
giving equivalent real ship sizes in deci-
mals and millimeters.
2. Making Allowances
Along the Way
Try to be exact when following the plans,
but use common sense. Adjustments
may be necessary to compensate for
small differences in how your model is
shaping up; perhaps one mast has too
much rake (angle to the deck). Lines
should not drape over fittings or conflict
with other lines when belayed (secured).
If necessary, move a belaying point or
fairlead. Put yourself on the ship, imag-
ine performing the task, and use logic.
3. Understanding Hull Lines
Beginners may not be familiar with hull
lines. Buttock lines are vertical longitudi-
nal planes cut through the hull. Waterlines
are horizontal planes, and sections are
transverse vertical planes. Diagonals are
diagonal planes cut through the hull.
These lines define the hull's shape and
are used by the draftsman to fair it
(create even curves).
A complete set of hull lines is not needed
for this model, because laser-cut bulk-
heads and center keel define the hull.
Sheet 2 shows the bulkheads. They are
similar to a ship's body plan or sections,
and illustrate how the hull curves from
top to bottom.
4. Using Basswood Lumber
Basswood comes in 1/32", 3/64", 1/16",
3/32", 1/8", 5/32", 3/16", 1/4", and 1/2"
thick sheets and strips. Strip widths are
in the same increments, while sheets
may be 1", 2", 3", or 4" wide.
Note: Model Shipways occasionally sub-
stitutes lime (Tilia vulgaris), a European
wood, for basswood (Tilia americana). Both
have a fine, uniform texture and straight
grain. Lime, however, has superior steam-
bending qualities. It is often called bass-
wood in Europe. Based on Niagara's
3/16" = 1'0" scale, 1/64" equals 1" on the
real ship, 1/32" is to 2", and so on.
Generally, basswood strips or sheets can
be used as is. Occasionally, a strip must be
thinner than the supplied size. To main-
tain scale, sand the strip to the required
thickness with a sanding block before
making the part.
Another way to reduce stock is with a
hobby sanding thickness planer (sold
commercially). Those who don't own one
can chuck a sanding drum into their drill
press, clamp a block alongside the drum
to act as a fence, then insert the strip
between the drum and block. This
makeshift tool works quite well.
VIEW AT DOCKSIDE, ERIE, PA.

7
Sorting the wood in the kit by thickness
saves time. After selecting and cutting
what is needed, return the remaining
stock to the proper thickness pile. Don't
worry about using a piece for one item
that was intended for another. Model
Shipways supplies enough extra wood to
complete the model before running out.
5. Britannia Metal Fittings
Although most parts are wood, the kit
contains a small number of britannia
fittings. Before painting them, remove
any mold joint flash with a #11 hobby
blade, then file smooth or sand with
fine sandpaper. Clean parts in dish-
washing liquid and warm water to
remove traces of mold release agent
and any body oils your fingers have
deposited. Rinse thoroughly and allow
to dry completely before applying primer.
6. Soldering and Working
with Brass
Niagara doesn't require a great deal of
soldering. However, here are a few tips:
Cut brass sheet and strips with a small pair
of tin snips or heavy scissors. Heavier
brass requires a jeweler's saw. After cut-
ting, smooth the edges with needle files
followed by wet-or-dry fine sandpaper
used dry. Cutting slivers from brass sheet
curls and bends it sideways. To straighten,
grip the ends with a pair of small pliers
and pull in opposite directions. Thin brass
sheets can be scored with a utility knife
and metal straightedge, then snapped off.
Use two or three light passes, cutting
against a maple chopping block, birch
board, or glass backing.
Drilling holes in brass with a pin vise is
a slow process. The solution is to mount
a handpiece for flex-shaft machines in a
hobby drill press. Several companies
manufacturer this tool and it is worth
the cost. When working with brass, use
a 1/4" or thicker piece of maple or birch
for backing. (Avoid softwoods, as these
flare the exit hole.) To prevent the bit
from wandering, mark the spot with a
small center punch. Lubricate the bit
with light oil and drill slowly to avoid
breakage. The brass will become hot, so
clamp the pieces to the drill press table
or hold them down with a wooden
stick. Use a speed reducer to keep rpms
under 2,000; otherwise, excessive heat
buildup will break a small bit.
Solder: Until recently, modelers used
pure silver solder to avoid the corrosive
qualities of lead in soft solder. Today,
many solders are lead free. They're com-
posed of tin and antimony, are strong,
and melt at less than 450º F. Some
brands are mixed with 3% or 4% silver,
but still melt easily. Consequently, no
reason exists to use pure silver solder
(melts at 1300º F).
Flux: Purchase pure solder and buy flux
separately for additional control. Paste
fluxes apply more precisely than liq-
uids, which run to all the wrong places.
Soldering: The key to soldering is keeping
the brass clean. Use a solvent, lightly
sand, or both. Once the parts are cleaned,
don't touch them. Your fingers will leave
greasy spots. Soldering is easy if your
work is set up properly. First, immobilize
the parts in a fixture or other holding
device, then add just enough flux to the
joint to do the job. Remember, solder
flows where flux is applied.
Next, cut a small piece of solder and lay
it on the joint before heating.
Experiment with various sizes to learn
how much solder it takes to just fill a
joint. The joint should look like the real
thing, not a glob of fillet. Heat the joint
with a small torch or pencil soldering
iron. This sequence is important. The
larger the parts, the longer it takes to
heat the brass and melt the solder.
Remove excess solder with needle files.
LOOKING FORWARD
CAPSTAN AND SKYLIGHTS

8
Painting And Staining The Model
Beginning with directions on applying
finishes may seem strange, but it isn't.
Much time and effort can be saved and
more professional results obtained if the
finishing process is carried out during
construction. Paint small parts, masts,
and spars before they are installed on
the model. The painting sequence must
be well thought out; otherwise, assem-
bly difficulties can arise. For example,
painting a cabin or hatch coaming is
easier if it isn't glued to the deck. Store
parts in covered containers until they
are ready to be installed. Proper timing
when applying finishes or using mask-
ing tape to define painted edges should
eliminate unsightly glue marks and
splotchy, stained surfaces. Take advan-
tage of these general suggestions:
1. Preliminaries
Sanding and Cleaning: Rub down external
surfaces with 220-grit sandpaper, then
wipe off every speck of dust. Give
untreated surfaces two light coats of
primer. Sand very lightly after the last
application. Don't sand down to bare
wood. After washing your hands, gen-
tly dust the hull with a soft brush and
clean, soft rag or tack rag. Use a hobby
spackling compound, such as Pic-n-Patch
or DAP, to fill any scratches and defects,
then sand and prime again.
Choosing paint: Glossy surfaces are not
desirable on ship models. A flat finish or
one with a slight sheen is best, because it
doesn't reflect daylight or artificial lights.
Consequently, details show up better.
However, the undercoat or primer
should be dead flat. A primer gives the
surface a little tooth and helps top coats
adhere better.
Any of these hobby paints are satisfac-
tory; Floquil lacquers or Polly-S and
Polly Scale acrylics, Tamiya, Testor's
Model Master, and Humbrol. Jo Sonja
artists' paints (used by bird carvers) or
Holbein Acryla Gouache are also accept-
able. Unlike pure acrylics, which have a
little sheen, the gouache in these paints
make them flat.
Hobby paints have a variety of reflectance
levels. For example, Floquil’s model rail-
road and military colors are basically flat.
Its marine paints, designed to match orig-
inal ship colors, vary from gloss to flat
and have a reflectance reducer. When
using a mixed group of reflectance levels,
finish the completed model with a flat,
clear coat. It provides durability and seals
any decals or rub-on lettering.
Floquil's reducer works in an unusual way.
Spraying on a single coat blends colors and
subdues a gloss to almost flat. Because of
resins in the reducer, subsequent appli-
cations raise the reflectance level from
flat to about semi-gloss or satin finish.
Consequently, for nearly dead flat, use one
coat of reducer. For a little more sheen, apply
several coats. If you start with flat paint and
want some gloss, finish with a crystal or
high gloss coat.
Jo Sonja paints are dead flat. To finish,
use either a flat acrylic varnish for dura-
bility or a gloss varnish to increase
reflectance. Other manufacturers have
similar paint mixes and flat or gloss
finish coats. Always read the manufac-
turer's instructions.
Brush painting: Painting with fine, soft
bristle brushes is probably best for the
beginner. Many skilled modelmakers
prefer the brushed-on technique,
because its subtle imperfections impart
a more lifelike appearance to the model.
BOW AREA

9
Brushes must be soft and of the highest
quality. Artist grade sable or synthetics
are the best. Use wider brushes for paint-
ing broad surfaces. If too narrow, the
bristles will cause excessive streaking.
When applying paint or stain with a
brush, lay down one thin coat in a sin-
gle stroke, then move to an adjacent
area and coat it with a single stroke.
Never go back over fresh paint. That
will tear up the surface. Wait until it has
dried to a hard finish before applying a
second coat.
Spray Painting: Although slightly expen-
sive, a Paasche, Badger, Testors, Revell-
Monogram, or similar airbrush will pro-
duce a first-rate job and is worth the
investment. Airbrushes are either single
action (trigger controls only airflow) or
double action (trigger controls air and
paint) and easy to use. Spray patterns
can vary from thin to about 1/2" wide
by either adjusting the needle or
installing a different, sealed nozzle. In
some brands, paint travels through the
airbrush body to the needle. These
require disassembling to clean. Other
designs bypass the body and bring
paint directly to the nozzle. These clean
by simply spray solvent through them.
Paints are either water (acrylic) or solvent
based. Solvent- based paints spray best.
This includes Floquil's lacquers (thin
about 25%) and Testor's Model Master
enamels. Polly-S, Polly Scale, and Model
Master's acrylics are difficult to spray and
must definitely be used with the manu-
facturer's special thinner. Thinning water-
based paints with water creates surface
tension problems, resulting in poor cov-
erage and spray atomization. Experiment
when using acrylics. Some modelers have
success and others don't.
When using solvent-based paints, work
outdoors or equip your shop with a
spray booth. These fumes are toxic.
Many brands of aerosol paints produce
good results. However, test them on
scrap wood before spraying the model.
Aerosols put out a lot more paint than an
airbrush, so spray on several extremely
light coats to avoid runs.
Floquil, and other brands, has special
thinners for its various paint lines.
Follow each manufacturer's recommen-
dations. Mixing brands is not a good
idea, because they may not be compati-
ble. Sometimes, however, no other
option exists. If so, apply each brand
separately and allow to thoroughly dry
before adding the next. Always test to
make sure the final flat or gloss finish is
compatible with the paint it will cover.
Masking surfaces: Masking can be a tricky
process. Some brands of masking tape
are worthless, because they allow paint
to seep underneath their edges. For
masking fine stripes or straight and
curved lines, use a graphic arts tape such
as Chart Pak. It comes in widths as fine
as 1/32” and 1/64”. Chart Pak tapes
have superb adhesion and won’t bleed
when firmly applied (burnishing is rec-
ommended). Black plastic electrician’s
tape and Scotch Removable Magic Tape
are also excellent. Scotch’s tape has the
same, low stick adhesive as its famous
Post-It pads. In fact, Post-It Correction
Cover-Up Tape can be used for mask-
ing. Rolls are 58-feet long and come in
1/6”, 1/3”, and 1” widths.
Scribing the waterline: This can be done
in a variety of ways. One method is to
mount the hull so the waterline is paral-
lel to the bench top, then mark the
waterline using a height gauge and
sharp pencil or scriber. With or without
the aid of masking tape, paint the bot-
tom and topside colors precisely to this
line. The scribed line acts somewhat as a
barrier against transgressions by either
color, but a steady hand is needed.
Asecond approach is to guess where
the waterline will lie, but deliberately
overrun it when spraying or brushing
on the bottom color. Once it has dried,
scribe the waterline onto the hull with a
height gauge, then paint down to it.
Those with shaky hands should first
apply masking tape to the waterline.
2. Niagara’sColor Scheme
The color scheme is shown on the plans.
Sheet 3 matches it to equivalent Floquil
marine colors. Some are straight out of
the bottle, others a mix. (Model
Shipways sells a Niagara paint set.) If
another manufacturer's paints are used,
match them to Floquil's color chart.
Without this chart, follow the description
on the plan. The colors may not match
exactly, but should be close enough.
Painting And Staining The Model
QUARTER DAVITS

10
Framing the
Plank-on-Bulkhead Hull
1. Bending Wood
Building a P-O-B hull requires bending
some wood without distorting its
desired position (doing so stresses glue
joints and fasteners). Although the term
steam bent is used to identify the
process, there are three ways to do it.
Steam bending: Hold the piece over a
kettle of boiling water and bend. Hold
the wood in position until it cools. It
should remain in that position, but may
spring back slightly.
Soaking: Submerge the piece in warm
water for several hours. Try adding a lit-
tle household or pure ammonia. This
speeds up the soaking process and
makes the fibers slippery so the wood is
easier to bend. After soaking, hold the
piece in position with a fixture and let it
dry completely.
Soldering iron: Large soldering irons
with a tubular end are ideal. Clamp the
iron upright in a vise. While the iron
heats, soak the strip of wood in tap
water. Some modelers prefer bending
around the tube near the handle (it's not
as hot), while others use the shank.
Move the strip back and forth against
the iron. Its heat turns water into steam
and drives it into the wood. The trick is
to wait until you feel the wood wanting
to yield before starting the bend. Begin
too soon or apply too much pressure
and the strip will break.
Wood dries rapidly, so take care to avoid
scorching. Resoak and reapply it to the
iron until the desired shape is achieved.
Once the piece is formed, it can go direct-
ly on the model. Because the wood's
memory was permanently altered, it will
never spring back to its former shape,
meaning no stress on any timber or fas-
teners. Spend some time acquainting
yourself with this method and you'll
never bother with fixtures again.
Model Expo sells an electric plank bender
(MS7205). It is designed for controlled heat.
2. Center Keel Assembly
The first step in constructing the hull is
to assemble the three laser-cut center
keel pieces. With a sharp pencil, mark
the reference line and bulkhead stations
on both sides of the center keel. Be criti-
cal and measure from several points on
the plans when marking the reference
line. It is a key to proper alignment and
locates Bulkheads Athrough Q.
Lay a sheet of waxed paper or plastic
wrap over a flat building board or table,
and place the center keel pieces on top.
Affix the joints with white or woodwork-
er's glue. Use a steel or aluminum straight-
edge to align the reference line. If neces-
sary, add weights to hold down the parts.
Let the adhesive dry at least overnight,
preferably 24 hours (Figure 1-1).
3. Installing the Keel,
Stem, and Sternpost
Add the keel, stem, and sternpost.
Before installing, taper the stem as
shown on the plans. Align and hold the
pieces with dowels (Figure 1-2).
4. Cutting the Rabbet
The rabbet is the glue line separating the
keel, stem, and sternpost from the cen-
ter keel. The bearding line is the intersec-
tion of the center keel with the inside of
hull planks. Measure the bearding line's
location from the P-O-B plans, then
mark it on both sides of the center keel.
At the stern and bow, cut a 1/16" deep
rabbet with a #11 hobby knife. Cut on
or slightly above the glue joint. Next,
start the rabbet cut at the bearding line.
Use a 1/8" wide chisel and cut toward
the rabbet. The 1/16" thick hull plank-
ing must lie flush against this cut area.
To judge the angle of the rabbet, posi-
tion a scrap piece of plank against the
keel as you cut. The angle changes near
amidships (Figure 1-3).
5. Installing the Bulkheads
The laser-cut bulkheads include tim-
berheads. These extend above the deck
to form bulwark stanchions. Compare
the bulkheads with the patterns on
Sheet 1, determine which is which, and
label them Athrough Q. Test each to
make sure it slides into the correct cen-
ter keel slot. If the fit is too tight, sand
the slot. Bulkheads should fit snugly
with a little tolerance for glue.
STAGE 1 Fig 1-1 Assembling the Center Keel
Fig 1-2 Installing Stem, Keel, and Sternpost
Baseboard (or table)
Add pins or
dowels as required
Center keel
Glue
Glue
Glue joint
let dry 24 hours
Wax paper or plastic wrap
Weight
Straight edge to align
reference line

11
Using a pencil, mark the reference line on
each bulkhead. It must align with the ref-
erence line mark on the center keel. This
assures an accurate hull, because each
bulkhead is correctly related to the others.
Next, use a tick strip to transfer the
bevels from the plans to the bulkheads.
Mark them in pencil. Cut the bevels
with a #11 hobby blade (Figure 1-4).
Note: Cut bevels on the inboard side of
timberheads. Deck bevels and side
bevels near amidships are diminutive.
Barely perceptible ones are sanded in
after the bulkheads are installed.
Glue the bulkheads in place. Make sure
each bulkhead's reference line matches
the one on the center keel. Use a small
machinist square to set each bulkhead
perpendicular to the center keel, then
tack or tape a temporary strip to the top
of the bulkhead to hold it in place while
the glue dries (Figure 1-5).
Model Expo sells the Fair-A-Frame
Building Slip. It holds the center keel
steady and bulkheads perpendicular to
it. Purchase it separately.
Once the bulkheads are installed, tack or
tape a temporary batten to each side of
the hull just below the deck (Figure 1-6).
This is a critical step. Measure the spac-
ing between each port and starboard
bulkhead and retack the battens until the
hull is aligned. Although the center keel
was assembled flat, it could warp and
produce a banana-shaped hull. When it
looks correct, check it again.
After the hull is aligned, add permanent
struts between each bulkhead close to
the exterior, then remove the battens.
Now examine the bottom of each bulk-
head. It should feather out and lie pre-
cisely on the bearding line. If not, trim
until it does. Also check that the top of
each bulkhead at the centerline is flush
with the top of the center keel. Since
alignment is based on the reference
marks, slight errors can occur. Sand or
add shims until the bulkheads and cen-
ter keel surfaces are flush (Figure 1-7).
Next, sand in the bevels that were not
precut. Check the hull's fairness by lay-
ing a 1/8" square basswood batten
against the bulkhead edges at various
locations (Figure 1-8). Correct bumps
and dips by sanding or adding shims.
This is an important check. Hull planks
must lie flat against the bulkheads. With
Niagara's numerous bulkheads, it's pos-
sible for manufacturing or assembly
errors to occur.
Fig 1-4 Cutting Bulkhead Bevels
Fig 1-5 Gluing Bulkheads to Center Keel
Mark bevel
Amidships
Fit scrap
plank as you
carve
Bearding
line
Rabbet
(also glue line)
1-Cut depth
2-Chisel
out
At ends
Pin or tape
Glue
Ref
Ref
Square
Temporary
wood strip
Align
reference
lines
Cut bevel & sand
Bevel inboard side also
Fig 1-3 Cutting the Rabbet in Center Keel

12
6. Installing the Stern Blocks
and Transom Framing
Refer to Sheet 2. Port and starboard
filler and corner filler blocks butt into
Bulkhead Q and the center keel. They
provide more area on which to glue hull
planking. Some waterlines are included
to aid in carving these blocks to the cor-
rect hull form.
Mount the stern filler block, then install
the laser-cut stern timbers. Add the cor-
ner filler blocks. Glue the two horn tim-
bers to the sides of the center keel. Inner
and outer timbers fit into a slot in
Bulkhead Q. Glue quarter stanchions to
the corner filler block. To form the hole
for the rudder stock, install the laser-cut
filler piece between the horn timbers.
Timbers have stiffeners between them,
while some gunports have filler pieces
for support. A deck beam fits into the slot
in the top of the stern timbers. Figure 1-9
shows the stern framing assembly. See
the plans for pictorial views.
7. Installing the Bow
Filler Blocks
After carving the bow filler blocks to
shape, add them forward of Bulkhead
A. They provide a solid base for tim-
berheads and knightheads, and addi-
tional support for the hull planking.
Planks will still need steam bending at
the bow; but, with the blocks in place,
are not as likely to break as they curve
around the last bulkhead.
8. Covering the Mast Slots
Cut the pieces shown on Sheet 2 from
scrap wood, then glue to both sides of
the two mast slots in the center keel.
Make sure they are securely fastened,
because access to them is impossible
once the deck is laid.
9. Installing the Waterway
and Planksheer
Apply glue to the scarf joints of the
three-piece waterway. When dry, shape it
to fit per the plans. Most shaping occurs
toward the bow. Now install it against
the timberheads.
Add the three-piece, laser-cut planksheer
on top of the waterway. It also requires
some shaping, especially at the bow.
The planksheer has built in gunport
sills, carronade carriage-pin holes, and
timberhead slots. The latter requires
precisely spaced bulkheads. If this is
Fig 1-6 Temporary Battens for Hull Alignment
Fig 1-8 Checking Hull Fairness with a Batten
Fig 1-9 Stern Framing
Fig 1-7 Correcting Bulkheads at Bearding Line
Check keel with
straight edge
Check spacings
Tack temporary
strip both sides
Optional permanent
strut between
bulkheads
Check alignment
visually in all
directions
Bearding Line
Bulkhead
Batten
Needs shim
Needs trim
O.K. O.K. O.K.
Needs trim or shim depending on
fairness with next bulhead
Quarter stanchion
Top stiffeners Stern timber
(laser-cut)
Arch board
Fill piece between
horn timbers
(laser-cut)
Deck beam
Center keel
Bulkhead “Q”
Corner filler
block
Filler
block
Add shim
Trim
Smooth flow
into rabbet

13
not the case, enlarge the slots to accept
the planksheer. Once installed, fill any
gaps with wood filler (Figure 1-10).
10. Installing the Knightheads
and Forward Timberheads
Make the knightheads and bow timber-
heads, then glue them into the filler
blocks' precut notches. Add the laser-cut
stiffener at the top. It requires shaping
to match the hull (Figure 1-11).
11. Installing the Main
Rail and Chock Rail
The laser-cut main rail comes in sections
with scarf joints along the side, but the
stern rail is one piece. Use pins or dow-
els to align and hold them in place
(Figure 1-12). Their locations are critical.
They must evenly overhang the hull
planking and ceiling planking.
A laser-cut chock rail covers the main rail
at the bow. Taper it per the plan, then
drill rigging line holes and cut out the
section for the catheads (Figure 1-13).
12. Framing Around the
Gunports and Sweep Ports
Timberheads taper from 1/8" at the
deck to 3/32" at the rail. Frame around
the gunports and sweep ports with 1/8"
square strips. However, switch to 3/16"
square pieces where the bulwarks begin
to curve at the bow, then sand the out-
board and inboard sides of the hull
flush with the timberheads. Bulwark
planking and ceiling must lie flat
against this framing (Figure 1-14).
To check your work, take a strip of plank-
ing and lay it outboard on the hull,
inboard against the bulwarks, and along
the deck to make sure it will go on
smoothly. You do not want any surprises
when planking begins.
Fig 1-10 Installing the Waterway and Planksheer
Fig 1-11 Installing Knightheads and Timberheads at Bow
Fig 1-12 Installing the Main Rail
Planksheer
( Laser-cut)
From bulkhead “E” forward, the
inboard edge of waterway also
bevels to follow the bulwark slope
Waterway
( Laser-cut)
Pin or dowel
Top stiffener
Knighthead
Rail must overlap
Pin or dowel
Rail (laser-cut)
Stringers to be installed later
Timberhead
Bulkhead
“A”
Cut
notches
Bevel edge & slots to fit flush
against bulkhead timberheads
Fig 1-13 Installing the Chock Rail
T
aper laser-
cut rail Pin or dowel
to main rail
Drill holes for rigging
Cut out in way of cathead
Fig 1-14 Framing Around Gun and Sweep Ports
Sand all framing flush with
bulkhead timberheads
Rail
BHD
BHD
Planksheer
Sweep port
Gunport

14
Planking the
Plank- on- Bulkhead Hull
Before starting, it’s a good idea to know
some shipbuilding terms used in the
planking process.
Plank: Single length of wood used to
plank a hull or deck. A strake is a contin-
uous line of planks from wherever it
begins to where it ends.
Garboard: Planking strake adjacent to
the keel.
Sheer strake: Upper line of planking on
a hull.
Wale: Heavy layer of strakes below the
sheer strake. Niagara has no wale.
Belts: Group of planks along the hull.
Belts are laid out using battens (tempo-
rary strips of flexible wood). Aribband is
also a batten. It holds frames in position
during planking. Ribbands are removed
as planking progresses.
Spiling: Process for marking and cutting
a plank to a given shape.
Edge-bending or springing: To bend a
plank edgewise.
Fair: Refers to smooth, gradual curves
when planking.
Nib or nibbing: Running one plank into a
notch in another to eliminate a feathered
edge. Nibbing generally applies to decks, but
sometimes hull planks are nibbed.
Stealer: Plank inserted into another plank
or between two adjacent planks to reduce
their width. Or, when two planks taper
toward a narrow end, both may have to
be cut off and a wider plank substituted
to leave enough wood for fastening.
Counter: Underside of the overhanging
portion of a ship's stern.
1. Getting Started
Most modelers find planking tedious.
Work slowly and think of each plank as
a project unto itself. Since hull sides are
identical, simultaneously cut one pair of
port and starboard planks to shape. Fit
the plank on one side, then the other.
Don't rush. Speed results in frustration
and a poor job.
Before starting, secure the hull upside
down in a vise or cradle. Something
portable that rotates is ideal. Model
Expo sells a planking vise for this pur-
pose.
2. Planking Battens and Belts
Hulls are easier to plank when divided
into belts. Each is designed to lay the
planks against the bulkheads without
excessive edge bending. They gently
sweep up at the ends like the deck
sheer. Planks within a belt are usually
evenly spaced, tapered, and fitted. Belts
prevent errors from accumulating.
When selecting a belt width and the
number of planks it contains, consider
how the planks taper and lay against
the bulkheads. Taper too much and not
enough stock is left for fastening. Then
a larger plank must be substituted for
two planks to increase the width. Planks
too wide won't lay flat. In some areas,
the distance between planks widens
rather than tapers. If it becomes too
wide, a stealer must be added. While
these alterations are acceptable and
employed on many ships, the best run
of planking limits their number. (Figure
2-1 illustrates some inserts.)
Sheet 2 shows the planking layout. Fore
and aft views plus a profile view pro-
vide a complete picture.
STAGE 2 Fig 2-1 Planking Shown Using Stealer Inserts
Stealer
Single plank
insert
A. Planks getting too wide
B. Planks getting too narrow
STERN VIEW

15
3. Planking Butts
Few trees grow as tall as ships are long.
Consequently, real planks were general-
ly 20 or 30 feet in length. Some builders
think a plank as long as the model is
easier to use. They scribe in fake butts
or omit them. Although this can be
done, working with shorter planks has
its advantages. For example, tapers
mark quicker and only one hand is
needed to hold and fasten the plank.
Should a mistake happen, just a small
piece is affected. So, the following is
based on scale-length planks.
Because this is a plank-on-bulkhead
model, butts must occur on bulkheads
and won't simulate shipwright practice.
Use a 5" to 6" long plank (26 to 32 scale
feet) to cover four bulkhead spaces.
However, to avoid stubby pieces at the
bow and stern, a longer or shorter plank
may be necessary to complete the run.
To emulate shipwright practice, stagger
the butts (Figure 2-2). This also applies to
deck planking. Covering four bulkhead
spaces follows the rule; i.e., three full
plank widths between butts on a single
frame. One plank covering three bulk-
head spaces won't work, because that
leaves only two full planks between butts.
4. Spiling
Edge bending planks on real ships
occurs on a limited basis. Wood is rigid,
so many planks must be cut to shape.
Spiling (Figure 2-3) is simply a matter of
transferring curves to a straight plank,
then sawing them out. In most cases,
basswood strips are flexible enough to
edge bend in place.
Stealers for Niagara are shown on the
planking layout at the stern.
5. Fastening the Planks
A screw-type commercial plank clamp
is available, but is more trouble than it
is worth. It screws into bulkheads, leav-
ing a big hole to contend with when
installing subsequent planks. Model
Expo, however, sells a hull planking
clamp that holds planks in place with
side clamps. Or, use aluminum-head
push pins to position planks, but be
careful not to split the wood. If neces-
sary, drill a pilot hole first. Smear a light
film of white or woodworker's glue
along the edge of the plank with your
finger, then touch each bulkhead with
thin cyano to quickly affix the plank.
Be careful not to glue your fingers to
the model.
Another approach is to apply cyano to
the edge of a plank already in place and
on the bulkheads above it. Spray or
brush the cyano's accelerator on the
plank to be installed, then hold it in
place. The glue sets instantly and no
clamps are necessary. However, be sure
to position the plank correctly the first
time, because there isn't a second chance.
While glue alone will secure a plank,
small brass brads or wooden treenails
provide additional holding power and
duplicate shipwright practice. They are
essential on bright (unpainted) models
and should be added where each frame
is located on the real ship. If using
brads, cut off and discard the heads,
then hammer in.
Treenails are commercially available, but
making them is easy. Buy a package of
long bamboo skewers, strip off short
lengths, and pull through a drawplate to
the desired diameter. Drill holes through
the plank, dip the treenail in white or
yellow glue, and drive in place. Nip the
dowel flush with the planking. You can
also buy a treenail cutter. This expensive
accessory mounts in a handpiece.
Another alternative is to whittle flat
toothpicks (round ones don't work as
well) to a point. Place the entire tooth-
pick in the hole, rap sharply with a 10-
inch bastard file, and break off the
remaining portion. Afile works better
than a hammer, because its serrated sur-
face catches and firmly holds the head
of the toothpick, permitting it to be dri-
ven in tightly. Exterior stubble is
dressed and sanded smooth when
treenailing is completed.
Fig 2-2 Staggering the Planking Butts
Fig 2-3 Spiling the Planks When Edge Bending Cannot be Accomplished
Bulkhead
Real ship: Must have 3 strakes
between butts on same frame
(model meets rule with plank
length selected)
5. Cut out plank
4. Measure width and
mark,draw curve
1. Plank already in place
2. Wood: Lay along bulkheads without edge bending
3. Use compass–run steel point
along plank in place and
mark parallel line on new
plank with pencil end
Real ship: Must be 5' or more
(model meets rule)

16
6. Outer Hull Planking
Belt Layout: Planking widths are fairly
equal from the main rail to about 1/4"
below the gunport sills. From there on
down, planks taper fore and aft.
Consequently, the hull below this point
is divided into Belts A through D.
On Sheet 2, use a tick strip to mark the
belt seams along each bulkhead.
Transfer these points in pencil to the
model. Now temporarily tack four,
1/16" x 3/32" basswood battens along
the port and starboard belt lines.
Battens assure an accurate run of planks
by correcting any errors in drafting, tick
strip marking, or transferring.
Once the eight battens are in place,
check their flow. Look at the model
from the side and from the bow and
stern. Do the battens have a pleasing,
smooth curve? Are they symmetrical? If
necessary, adjust the lower battens refer-
ring to the planking profile on Sheet 2.
When everything is fair, make sure the
belt seams are clearly visible. Remark
those that aren't. Now, either remove
the battens or leave them in place until
they interfere with installing a plank.
Tapering Plank Edges: As planking pro-
ceeds, the edges of a particular plank
may require tapering to butt flush against
its neighbor. Properly machined planks
have square edges. Butting them together
on a hull may produce small gaps. Most
are sealed with glue or wood filler, or
caulked on a real ship. Plank edges are
often deliberately sloped to ensure they
butt against each other, while providing a
sufficient gap for caulking. To create a
perfectly smooth hull without gaps, trim
each plank edge as it is fit. The decision
to taper or rely on filler is yours.
Planking the Counter and Transom: Cover
the counter and transom with 1/32"
planks. Normally, counter/transom
planks and hull planks intersect in a
miter. However, other options are avail-
able (Figure 2-4).
Gunport and Sweep Port Butt Strips: A
1/32" square, vertical strip covers the
hull planking's end grain at the gun-
ports and sweep ports. These are red on
the real ship (Sheet 3) and provide a ref-
erence line for painting the model.
However, those who paint only the
inside of the gunports red may wish to
leave the covering strips yellow like the
rest of the hull planking.
Upper Hull Planking: The first plank
beneath the rail is 3/64" thick. The rest
are 1/32" thick except the two 3/64"
thick strakes below the gunport sill.
Widths are fairly uniform from bow to
stern. Gunports break up most strakes,
so planking butts are not an issue. For
the longer strakes above and below the
ports, use the following procedure:
Laying the Planks in Belt A: Planks
below the upper hull planking are
1/16" thick. Belts are done separately,
so planking can start with any one.
However, it's logical to begin at the top
and work down. Belt A has eight,
1/16" thick strakes. The maximum
plank width, at Bulkhead H, is roughly
3/32" on the model (6" on the real
ship). Planks taper forward and aft to
about 1/16". Use 1/8" or 3/32" wide
strips for the midship area and 3/32"
strips aft.
Lift the plank widths from the hull
planking layout with a tick strip. If any
batten locations were changed, divide
the space on each bulkhead into eight
equal plank widths. To do this, set the
slide on your proportional dividers to
the number of planks in Belt A. Span
the width of Belt A with the long legs.
The distance between the points on the
short legs is the width of each plank in
the belt. Mark these lines on the bulk-
heads in pencil. Belt A is now marked.
The next step is to cut planks to fit
between the marks. Belt A doesn't
require spiling, so make straight
tapered planks. Start at Bulkhead H.
Use a plank to cover:
First, lay a piece of planking stock over
the bulkheads. In pencil, mark their
overall length on the plank, then the
position of each bulkhead. Next, using a
set of dividers or tick strip, lift the plank
widths from the marks on the bulkheads
and transfer to the stock. Draw a line
through the points and cut the plank.
Trace this tapered plank to obtain anoth-
er for the other side of the hull. Repeat
for the remaining planks in this strake.
Fig 2-4 Transom / Side Plank Intersection
Fig 2-5 First Two Strakes in Belt "A"
Side
Transom
Miter Option 1 Option 2
Bulkheads
View Foreshortened
1) Bulkhead H to Bulkhead L
2) Bulkhead L to Bulkhead P
3) Bulkhead P to the stern
4) Bulkhead H to Bulkhead D
5) Bulkhead D to the stem

17
Install the planks. Repeat the process
for the next strake, but stagger the
butts. Install a plank from:
The hull now has two strakes of five
planks each running from bow to stern
(Figure 2-5).
Moving to the next planking strake, stagger
the butts starting at Bulkhead F. Continue
until the other strakes in Belt A are com-
pleted. Steam bend planks where required.
Laying the Planking in Belt B and Belt C:
These belts have eight strakes a little
wider than those in Belt A . If the tempo-
rary batten is still in place, remove it. Lay
the planks for Belt B and Belt C, but
remember to stagger the butts.
Note: Belt C has some stealers, since the
planking is widening.
Laying the Planking in Belt D: This belt
contains the garboard strake (next to the
keel) and has only five strakes.
Note: Near the stern are two stealers. Fit
them per the plans.
Sheet 2 shows a complete planking pro-
file. Follow it to determine plank widths
in Belt D aft. The hull planking layout
doesn't show all the planks aft, so the
profile view is necessary.
Plank Variations within a Belt: Suppose a
belt has seven planks the same width,
but the eighth plank must be wider to
complete the belt. Cause for worry?
Certainly not. No planking job, even on
real ships, is that precise. After all, these
are hand-cut planks and slight variances
will occur. The important thing is to
keep their flow smooth.
Counter - Rabbet Intersection: Hull plank-
ing first encounters the rabbet at the
sternpost, then butts into the counter.
This intersection creates a sharp point,
so cut the hull plank flush with the
counter planking. This was done on the
real ship.
Fig 2-6 Fashion Pieces at Stern
Fig 2-7 Coaming and Deck Plank Supports
Side planks butt into fashion piece,
or as option fit over planking
Fashion piece
Carve to fit
Coaming
Center keel
Scrap supports for coamings &
to support ends of deck plank
BHD
BHD
1) Bulkhead G to Bulkhead C
2) Bulkhead C to the stem
3) Bulkhead G to Bulkhead K
4) Bulkhead K to Bulkhead O
5) Bulkhead O to the stern
REPLICA CARRONADES

18
Fashion Pieces: Some modelers install the
fashion pieces on the port and starboard
quarter stanchions, then butt the hull
planking into them. However, in ship-
wright practice, fashion pieces fitted
over the planks (Figure 2-6) to seal their
end grain.
7. Ceiling (Inboard) Planking
Ceil the transom with a 3/64" thick plank
at the rail and deck, and 1/32" planks
between them. Bulwarks are ceiled with
one 1/16" thick stringer under the rail and
3/64" wide planking down to the deck.
Note: Glue 1/32" square, vertical strips
around the gunports and sweep ports to
cover the end grain of the ceiling
planks. Refer to Step 6.
8. Deck Planking
Coamings: Before planking the deck, decide
how to treat the hatch, skylight, and com-
panionway coamings. The recommended
approach (follows shipwright practice) is to
glue the coamings to their appropriate
bulkheads, then plank around them. Be
sure to glue and pin 1/8" thick scrap wood
underneath each coaming's free sides prior
to installation. This takes the place of deck
beams and provides a permanent landing
for the planks (Figure 2-7).
The alternative approach is to install the
coamings, hatches, and deck structures
on top of the deck, but remember to
reduce their height by 1/16".
Deck Planks: Deck planks are 1/16" thick.
Those forward and aft near the centerline
run parallel to it. Away from the center-
line, planks taper from midship aft and
parallel the waterway. To omit this detail,
install planks parallel to the centerline
without tapering. While not accurate, it
will still look presentable.
Prepare the strip by painting one edge
black or dark brown to simulate caulk-
ing. Be careful! Too much paint will
penetrate too deeply with unsightly
results. Do a test first. If it doesn't work,
edge glue the planks with brown wood-
worker's glue. This adhesive dries dark
enough to replicate caulking.
Procedure: Start deck planking at the cen-
terline and work outboard. Scrape off any
glue that squeezes out before adding the
next plank. Butts can be included or
omitted. On the real ship, they don't
show up as readily as the seams. Butts
can also be scribed after the plank is laid.
If desired, fasten planks with brads or
treenails (see Step 5).
Nibbing Strake: The nibbing strake lies
next to the waterway. Installation is a
little tedious, so either do it correctly or
take a shortcut (Figure 2-8).
Doublers: These timbers reinforce the
deck beneath the capstan. See the plans.Completing the Basic
Hull Structure
Thoroughly examine the hull for
starved glue joints. Fill these with wood
glue or model spackling compound,
then smooth the hull, bulwarks, and
deck with sandpaper.
STAGE 3
Fig 2-8 Nibbing Ideas
Nibbing strake
Plank
Strip over planks
Thin wood or paper strip over planks
Optional
Correct Nibs
No Nibs
Fake Nibs
Photo Courtesy of
Melbourne Smith

19
Mounting the Hull
Mount the hull as soon as basic framing
and planking are completed to prevent
damaging fittings when handling the
model. Proper mounting is important,
because future alignments will require a
true waterline. Two brass pedestals and
a baseboard are supplied. Another
approach to displaying the model is on
a launching ways. Scratch build the
platform or purchase the kit. Model
Expo sells them.
Models should be cased to protect them
from dirt and damage. Furthermore, most
competitions require entries to be cased. A
case is a cheap insurance policy. However,
the kit's baseboard may be too small to
serve as the base for the case. A case's out-
side diameter should be 4" longer than the
model (2" fore and aft), 4" wider (2" port
and starboard) and 2" higher. If the base-
board doesn't measure 47" long by 15"
wide, make a new one to accept a case.
1. Mounting Board
with Two Pedestals
Round the top edges of the baseboard or
cut a simple chamfer. Those with access
to a router can cut mouldings along the
edges. Paint or stain the baseboard.
Alternatives: Prefinished baseboards are
available or make your own from bass-
wood or more exotic woods like cherry,
walnut, bubinga, and rosewood.
Mount the model with the waterline par-
allel to the baseboard. Because Niagara has
a slight drag to her keel, the forward
pedestal must be a little taller than the aft
one. Therefore, shim the forward pedestal;
or, better yet, modify its top. Drill pilot
holes in the keel and baseboard for the
pedestal screws. If something goes awry
and the balance is off, add a brass shim
under one pedestal to correct it.
2. Launching Ways
Models without sails display best on a
launching ways. They are easy to assem-
ble and fasten to a baseboard. With a large
enough baseboard, a builder can create a
diorama based on a shipyard activity.
Drill holes in the keel for the anchoring
rods, then follow the directions to achieve
the proper waterline level.
Note: Stain or paint the baseboard or
launching ways before mounting the hull.
Adding the Hull Details
1. Locating Deck Fittings
and Structures
If hatch and companionway coamings were
not installed when planking the deck, locate
them along with the fife rails, pin rails, boat
davits, galley stack, bowsprit bitts, stern
bitts, capstan, and catheads. To locate items,
measure from a known bench mark such as
the centerline or center of a mast. Lightly
mark their positions in pencil on the deck.
Although installing eyebolts and cleats can
wait, doing it now means they'll be ready
when rigging commences. Once they're
mounted, clean and varnish the deck.
2. Deck Structures
These consist of a companionway and
two skylights (Figure 5-1). Build them
from 1/32" or 1/16" basswood sheets or
as planked structures. Another alterna-
tive is to make them from basswood
blocks (not provided). Use microscope
slides or clear acrylic for window panes,
and paint their undersides light blue.
Cut window bars from brass wire; or,
fake it and paint them on.
STAGE 4
Fig 5-1 Deck Structures
STAGE 5
Optional tabs to secure
sides to coaming
Slide top
Slide
Sill
1/32" or 1/16" thick
Molding for panels
Lift out panels
Top
Use planks or solid
sheet
Deck
Typical Coaming
Companionway
Window Glass & Bars
Real Ship Plank
Corner Joints
Simplified Model
Corner
Glass, or plastic inside
Brass rod or paint
lines on glass
4 Bars in Capt. skylight,
3 bars in others

20
A fancy, interlocking corner joint joined
the sides of deck structures (see plans).
However, this detail can be omitted.
3. Hatches, and Grating
Laser-cut grating material eliminates a
lot of work. Grating strips can be assem-
bled two ways (Figure 5-2). Edge-to-
edge gluing creates thinner, more realis-
tic gratings. They also fit in the hatch
better and ledges need not be so deep.
For variety, display some hatches with
gratings and others covered. Gratings
were used in fair weather to admit air
and light.
4. Boarding Ladders
Make boarding ladders from stripwood.
Use the fixture shown in Figure 5-3 to
align the parts for gluing.
5. Galley Stack
The britannia galley stack has a pad at
its base. Three flat bars elevated the top
of the real stack so smoke could escape.
Model Shipways' casting doesn't have
these openings, so drill holes in the top
to make it more authentic.
6. Capstan
Assemble the capstan from laser-cut parts
and a center dowel (Figure 5-4). Stow the
capstan bars on the stern bulwarks.
7. Fife Rails and Riding Bitts
Make the fife rail bitts and crosspieces from
stripwood. However, the foremast riding
bitts have laser-cut knees (Figure 5-5).
8. Pin Rails
Pin rails are mounted on the bulwarks
and at the bow. Make them from 3/64"
thick stripwood, then drill holes to accept
the brass belaying pins.
9. Bilge Pumps
Bilge pumps are simple boxes. Make
them from stripwood. A few wire parts
are required, but handles are wood
(Figure 5-6).
10. Scuppers
The plans show five scuppers. These
1/32" diameter pipes are so small, they
could be omitted; or, simulated by
drilling holes.
Fig 5-4 Capstan Assembly
Fig 5-2 Assembly of Grating Strips
Fig 5-3 Building Ladders
A. Egg Crate Fashion
Ladder Jig
Snug fit
Stile
Stile holder
Tread holder
(angle slots)
Relocate for
various lengths
Laser-cut parts
6 Whelps
Dowel
Drill belaying pin holes Chamfers
Laser-cut knee
Dowel
Length stop
Tread
B. Edge to Edge
(Preferred)
Fig 5-5 Building a Fife Rail
Fore Fife Rail