UnionSpecial 56200 Setup guide

From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC
CATAL OG NO.
129M
Fif th E dition
CL A SSES
56 200
56300
56400
56500
56700
56900
®
Finest Quality
Adjusting instructions and
illustrated parts list
, .. ,
u
Series 500 00 -Advanced,
hig h spe ed , f la t b ed m ac hin es

From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC
56200 H
56200 K
56200 L
56200 R
56200 S
56200 W
56300 E
56300 F
56300 G
56300 H
56300 M
56300 N
CATALOG NO. 129 M
ADJUSTING INSTRUCTIONS AND
ILLUSTRATED PARTS LIST FOR
SERIES 50000
ADVANCED, HIGH SPEED
FLAT BED MACHINES
STYLES
56300 R
56300 U
56300 W
56300 X
56300 AH
56300 AL
56400 D
56400 P
56400 R
56400 S
56400 T
56400 W
Fifth Edition
©1965,
1982
By
Union Special Corporation
Rights Reserved in
All Countries
Printed in
U.S.A.
March, 1982
2
56400 X
56500 A
56500 B
56500 C
56500 J
56500 R
56500 U
56700 J
56900 H
56900 J
56900 P
56900 R

From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC
IDENTIFICATION OF MACHINES
Each UNION SPECIAL machine carries a Style number, which on these Classes of mach-
ines, is stamped into the style plate affixed to the right front of machine.
The serial number is stamped in the casting at the right rear base of machine.
CLASS DESCRIPTION (56200)
Advanced high speed, low or medium throw, flat bed machines. Single needle, one
looper, enclosed automatic lubricating system. Maximum reconmended speed 6500
R.P.M. Maximum work space to right of needle bar 8 1/4 inches (209.6mm).
MACHINE STYLES
56200 H Low throw machine. Typical application - For miscellaneous seaming oper-
ations
on light to medium weight wash and wear materials where chaining
and a short stitch are required. Seam specification 401 SSa-1. Type 101
GS needle.
56200 K Low throw machine. Typical application - For binding aprons and dresses
made with light to medium weight materials. Seam specification 401 BSc-1.
Type 106 GLS needle. Uses cut edge binding 3/4, 7/8, 1, l 1/8, 1 1/4 inch
(19.0, 22.2, 25.4, 28.6,
31.8nm) wide and produces a 7/32, 1/4, 9/32,
11/32, 13/32 inch (5.6,
6.4, 7.1, 8.7, 10.3mm) finish, respectively.
#56200 L Medium throw machine. Typical application - For binding mattress ticks
made with medium to medium heavy weight materials. Seam specification
401 BSa-1. Type 126 GS needle. Uses selvage edge binding 5/8, 3/4, 7/8
inch (15.9, 19.0,
22.2mm) wide and produces a 5/16, 3/8, 7/16 inch (7.9,
9.5, 11.1mm) finish, respectively.
*56200 R Low throw machine. Typical application - For joining shoulders of shirts
in one operation made with light to medium weight materials. Seam specifi-
cation 401 LSe-1. Type 106 GLS needle.
56200 S Low throw machine. Typical application - For miscellaneous operations on
woven materials, knitted drawer bands, knitted shirt fronts made with
light to medium weight materials. Seam specification 401 SSa-1. Type
108 GHS needle.
56200 W Medium throw machine. Typical application - For seaming cotton flannel and
leather palm gloves. Seam specification 401 SSa-1. Type 128 GAS needle.
CLASS DESCRIPTION (56300)
Advanced high speed, medium or high throw, flat bed machines. Single needle, one
looper, enclosed automatic lubricating system. Maximum work space to right of needle
bar 8
1/4 inches (209.6mm).
#Discontinued - Replaced by Style 56300 M.
*Discontinued - In most instances, replacement parts are available.
3

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CLASS DESCRIPTION (56300 Continued)
MACHINE STYLES
56300 E Medium throw machine, equipped with thumbscrew adjustable frame needle
thread
eyelet, automatic chain cutter and pressure release attachment.
Typical application -
For seaming trousers and coats made with medium
to medium heavy weight materials. Seam specification 401 SSa-1. Type
128 GBS needle. Maximum reconmended speed 6500 R.P.M.
56300 F Medium throw machine, equipped with thumbscrew adjustable frame needle
thread
eyelet and a feeding presser foot. Typical application - For
seaming trousers and coats made with medium to medium heavy weight
durable press materials.
Seam specification 401 SSa-1. Type 128 GBS
needle. Maximum recommended speed 6500 R.P.M.
56300 G Medium throw machine, equipped with thumbscrew adjustable frame needle
thread
eyelet. Typical application - For seaming trousers, coats and
similar garments, made of medium to medium heavy weight materials. Seam
specification 401 SSa-1. Type 128 GBS needle. Maximum recommended speed
6500 R.P.M.
56300 H High throw machine. Typical application - For seaming couch covers, with
or without rope welt made with medium heavy to heavy weight materials.
Welt guided to the left of needle. Seam specification 401 SSa-1 or 401
SSk-1 modified. Type 143 GS needle. Maximum recommended speed 6000 R.P.M.
56300 M High throw machine. Typical application - For binding mattress ticks
made with medium heavy to heavy weight materials. Seam specification 401
BSa-1. Type 126 GS needle. Uses selvage edge binding 5/8, 3/4 and 7/8
inch (15.8, 19.0
and 22.2mm) wide, and produces a 5/16, 3/8 and 7/16 inch
(7.9, 9.5
and 11.1mm) finish respectively. Maximum recommended speed 6000
R.P.M.
56300 N Medium throw machine, equipped with thumbscrew adjustable frame needle
thread
eyelet and top-grip feed mechanism. Typical application - For edge
seaming operations on trousers, slacks, dress pants, jackets made of light
to medium weight durable press materials. Maximum seam width isl inch
(25.4mm) necessitated by the top-grip-feed mechanism. Seam specification
401 SSa-1. Type 128 GBS needle. Maximum recommended speed 6500 R.P.M.
56300 R Medium throw machine, equipped with thumbscrew adjustable frame needle
thread
eyelet and feeding presser foot. Typical application - For seaming
side and inseams on trousers, back and side seams on coats, sleeve seams
on jackets, coats made with medium to medium heavy weight materials. Seam
specification 401 SSa-1. Type 128 GBS needle. Maximum recommended speed
6500 R.P.M.
*56300 U Medium throw machine, equipped with thumbscrew adjustable frame needle
thread
eyelet and top-grip-feed mechanism. Typical application - For
edge seaming operations on trousers, slacks, dress pants, jackets and
similar garments made of light to medium weight materials. Maximum seam
width isl inch (25.4mm) necessitated by the top-grip-feed mechanism.
Seam specification 401 SSa-1. Type 128 GBS needle. Maximum recommend-
ed speed 6500 R.P.M.
*Discontinued - In most instances, replacement parts are available.
4

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MACHINE STYLES (Continued)
56300 W Medium throw machine, equipped with zipper guiding presser foot for
crossing zipper attached to pants
fly. Typical application - For attach-
ing waistbands to men's trousers. Seam specification 401 SSa-1. Type 128
GAS needle. Maximum recommended speed 6500 R.P.M.
*56300 X Medium throw machine, equipped with thumbscrew adjustable frame needle
thread
eyelet, top-grip-feed mechanism and presser foot with yielding
section to the
left of needle. Typical application - For edge seaming
operations on trousers, slacks, dress pants, jackets and similar garments
made of light to medium weight materials. Maximum seam width isl inch
(25.4mm) necessitated by the top-grip-feed mechanism. Seam specification
401 SSa-1. Type 128 GBS needle. Maximum recommended speed 6500 R.P.M.
56300 AH Medium throw machine, equipped with thumbscrew adjustable frame needle
thread
eyelet, top-grip-feed mechanism and presser foot with yielding
section to the
left of needle. Typical application - For edge seaming
operations on trousers, slacks, dress pants, jackets ~nd similar garments
made of light to medium weight durable press materials. Maximum seam
width isl inch (25.4mm) necessitated by the top-grip-feed mechanism.
Seam specification 401 SSa-1. Type 128 GBS needle. Maximum recommended
speed 6500 R.P.M.
56300 AL Medium throw machine, equipped with thumbscrew adjustable frame needle
thread eyelet. Typical application -
For miscellaneous operations on
paper garments and plastic products requiring a long stitch. Stitch
range is 4 to 7 per inch. Seam specification 401 SSa-1. Type 128 GAS
needle. Maximum recommended speed 6000 R.P.M.
CLASS DESCRIPTION (56400)
Advanced high speed, low throw, flat bed machines. Two needles, independent row,
left needle in front, two loopers, enclosed automatic lubricating system. Type
106 GHS needle. Prepared for use with knee press for foot lifter. Maximum recom-
mended speed 6500 R.P.M. Maximum work space to right of needle bar 8 1/4 inches
(209.6mm).
MACHINE STYLES
56400 D To be used with Galkin close-coupled puller. Attachments not furnished
with machine. Typical application -
For hemming and simultaneously in-
serting elastic in tops and legs of knitted undergarments made with light
to medium weight materials. Seam specification 401 EFg-2. Standard
gauge Nos. 12, 16.
56400 P Typical
sleeves
erials.
12, 16,
application -
For piecing sleeves, joining shoulders, setting
of ordinary quality shirts made with light to medium weight mat-
Seam specification 401 LSc-2. Standard gauge Nos. 6, 8, 10,
18.
56400 R Typical application - For attaching set-on center plaits and interlining
strip to skirts made with light to medium weight materials. Starts oper-
ating
at neck. Seam specification - 401 LSm-2. Type 106 GHS needle.
Standard
gauge No. 48. Maximum recommended speed 6500 R.P.M.
*Discontinued - In most instances, replacement parts are available.
5

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MACHINE STYLES (Continued)
56400 S Typical application - For folding and attaching inside button facings to
fronts of shirts made with light to medium weight materials. Start opera-
tions
at the neck. Facing strip guided next to feed dog. Seam specifica-
tion 401 LSm-2. Type 106 GHS needle. Standard gauge No. 48. Maximum
recommended speed 6500 R.P.M.
56400 T Typical application - For piecing sleeves, joining shoulders and setting
sleeves of extra fine quality shirts made with light to medium weight
materials.
Seam specification 401 LSc-2. Type 106 GHS needle. Standard
gauge Nos. 8, 10, 12, 16. Maximum recommended speed 6500 R.P.M.
56400 W Typical application - For piecing sleeves of shirts and pajamas, joining
operations
on woven shorts made with light to medium weight materials,
where the majority of the work consists of straight seams. Seam specifi-
cation 401 LSc-2. Type 106 GHS needle. Standard gauge Nos. 8, 10, 12,
16.
Maximum recommended speed 6500 R.P.M.
56400 X Typical application - For quilting collar bands of shirts made with light
to medium weight materials. No. 26 gauge is equipped with a folder so
that this machine can also be used for setting sleeves on extra fine
quality shirts. Seam specification 401 SSa-2 or 401 LSc-2. Type 106 GHS
needle. Standard gauge Nos. 24, 26. Maximum recommended speed 6500 R.P.M.
CLASS DESCRIPTION (56500)
Advanced high speed, high throw, flat bed machines. Two needles, independent row,
two loopers, enclosed automatic lubricating system. Maximum work space to right of
needle bar 8 1/4 inches (209.6rnn).
MACHINE STYLES
56500 A Typical application - For seat seaming operations on trousers and similar
garments
made of medium heavy to heavy weight materials. Seam specifica-
tion 401 SSa-2. Type 130 GS needle. Available for 5 stitches per inch
only. Standard
gauge No. 1 only. Maximum recornnended speed 6000 R.P.M.
(Formerly known as Style 56500 N-5).
56500 B Typical application - For seaming trousers and similar garments made of
medium heavy to heavy weight materials. Seam specification 401 SSa-2.
Type 130 GS needle. Available for 7 stitches per inch only. Standard
gauge No. 1 only. Maximum recommended speed 6000 R.P.M. (Formerly known
as Style 56500 N-7).
56500 C Typical application - For seaming trousers and similar garments made of
medium heavy to heavy weight materials. Seam specification 401 SSa-2.
Type 130 GS needle. Available for 10 stitches per inch only. Standard
gauge No. l only. Maximum recommended speed 6000 R.P.M. (Formerly known
as Style 56500 N-10).
56500 J Typical application - For felling overalls, coats, combination suits and
similar garments made of medium heavy weight materials. Seam specifica-
tion 401 LSc-2. Type 128 GS needle. Standard gauge Nos. 16, 18. Maximum
recommended speed 6000 R.P.M., depending on material or operation.
6

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MACHINE STYLES (Continued)
56500 R Typical application - For attaching risers to dungarees, piecing sleeves
on denim jackets and for attaching overall bibs made of medium heavy to
heavy weight materials. Seam specification 401 LSc-2. Type 128 GS needle.
Standard
gauge No. 18. Maximum recommended speed 6000 R.P.M., depending
on material or operation.
56500 U Typical application - For seaming trousers made of durable press material
or
medium heavy to heavy weight materials. Seam specification 401 SSa-2.
Type 130 GS needle. Available for 7 stitches per inch only. Standard
gauge No. l only. Maximum recommended speed 6000 R.P.M.
CLASS DESCRIPTION (56700)
Advanced high speed, low throw, flat bed machines. Two needles, independent row,
needles abreast, two loopers, enclosed automatic lubricating system. Maximum work
space to right of needle bar 8 1/4 inches (209.6mm).
MACHINE STYLE
56700 J Equipped with
11
Tru-Front
11
folder. Typical application - For one operation
folding
and attaching
11
Set-on
11
center plait and interlining strips to
fronts of
shirts and similar garments made of light to medium weight mat-
erials. Starts operation at neck. Plaits used in garment lengths and ex-
tends 1/4 inch
(6.4mm) beyond the rows of stitching. Seam specification
401 LSm-2. Type 108 GKS needle. Standard gauge Nos. 56, 64. Maximum
recommended speed 6500 R.P.M.
CLASS DESCRIPTION (56900)
Advanced high speed, high throw, flat bed machines. Three needles, independent row,
left needle in front, three loopers, enclosed automatic lubricating system. Maximum
recommended speed 6000 R.P.M. Maximum work space to right of needle bar 8 1/4 inches
(209.6mm).
MACHINE STYLES
56900 H Typical application - For setting sleeves, shoulder seaming on denim
jackets made with medium heavy to heavy weight materials. Seam specificat-
ion 401 LSc-3. Type 128 GAS needle. Standard gauge Nos. 8, 9.
56900 J Typical application - For seaming operations on jackets made of medium
heavy to heavy weight materials. Seam specification 401 LSb-3. Type 147
GKS needle. Standard gauge No. 9.
56900 P Typical application - For attaching risers to the back of jeans made with
medium heavy to heavy weight materials. Seam specification 401 LSc-3.
Type 147 GKS needle. Standard gauge No. 9.
56900 R Typical application - For seat seams, outseam or inseam on jeans made from
heavy weight denim. Seam specification 401 LSc-3. Type 147 GS needle.
Standard
gauge No. 9.
7

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NEEDLES
Each needle has both a type and size number. The type number denotes the kind
of shank, point, length, groove,
finish and other details. The size number, stamped
on the needle shank, denotes largest diameter of blade, measured midway between shank
and eye. Collectively, type and size number represent the complete symbol, which is
given on the label of all needles packaged and sold by UNION SPECIAL.
To have needle orders promptly and accurately filled, an empty package, a sample
needle, or the type and size number should be forwarded. Use description on label.
A complete order would read:
11
1000 needles, Type 106 GHS, Size 090/036
11
•
The type numbers of the needles recommended for each style of machine covered
by this catalog are given in the machine style or class description. Other needles
are available, but the ones indicated are those recorrnnended to produce the most
satisfactory results. The type numbers of the recommended needles together with
their descriptions, and the sizes available are listed below:
Type No.
101 GS
106 GHS
108 GHS
108 GKS
126 GS
128 GS
128 GAS
128 GBS
130 GS
Description and Sizes
Round shank, round point, extra short, double groove, struck groove,
chromium plated -sizes 022, 025, 027, 080/032, 049, 054.
Round shank, round point, extra short, double groove, struck groove,
ball eye, ball
point, chromium plated - sizes 070/027, 075/029,
090/036.
Round shank, round point, extra short, double groove, struck groove,
ball eye, ball point, spotted,
chromium plated - sizes 070/027,
075/029, 080/032, 090/036, 100/040 110/044, 125/049.
Round shank, round point, extra short, double groove, struck groove,
oversize ball eye, spotted,
chromium plated -sizes 080/032, 090/036,
100/040.
Round shank, round point, short, double groove, struck groove, ball
eye,
chromium plated -sizes 080/032, 100/040, 054.
Round shank, round point, short, double groove, struck groove, ball
eye, spotted, undersize
eye and groove 27% of size of needle, chrom-
ium plated -sizes 090/036, 100/040, 110/044, 125/049, 140/054.
Round shank, round point, short, double groove, struck groove, ball
eye, spotted,
chromium plated - sizes 080/032, 090/036, 100/040,
110/044, 125/049, 140/054, 150/060, 170/067.
Round shank, round point, short, double groove, struck groove, ball
eye, spotted, ball point,
chromium plated - sizes 080/032, 090/036,
100/040, 110/044, 125/049, 140/054, 150/060.
Round shank, round point, short, double groove, struck groove, ball
eye, spotted, government,
chromium plated -sizes 080/032, 090/036,
100/040, 110/044, 125/049, 140/054, 150/060.
8

From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC
NEEDLES (Continued)
Description
and Sizes
Type No.
143 GS
Round shank, round point, No. 2 bag, double groove, struck groove,
spotted,
chromium plated -sizes 140/054, 150/060, 170/067, 230/090.
147 GKS
Round shank, round point, long, double groove, struck groove, over-
size ball eye, spotted, short point, standard
eye and grooves,
chromium plated -sizes 090/036, 100/040, 110/044, 125/049, 140/054.
Selection of proper needle size
is determined by size of the thread used.
Thread should pass freely through needle
eye in order to produce a good stitch
formati ,' on.
LUBRICATION
Use a straight mineral oil with a Saybolt viscosity of 90 to 125 seconds at 100
degrees F. This is equivalent to Union Special Corporation Specification No. 175.
Before operating,
fill machine with oil at
plug screw (A, Fig. 1). While filling machine
with oil, check gauge (B). When proper oil level
is reached, gauge needle will register on black
line marked
11
FULL
11
• Oil must be added when gauge
needle registers on black line marked "LOW'. Al-
though
the machine can be operated safely when
gauge needle registers in the "OPERATE" zone, it
is recommended to always check oil level before
operating, to be sure machine is filled with oil
to the "FULL" mark. CAUTION: DO NOT over fill
machine.
To drain oil, remove plug screw (C), or low-
er crank chamber cover on back of machine. Oil
must be changed every 2000 operating hours to
minimize wear.
On new machines, or a machine out of service
for an extended period of time; lubricate machine
as follows:
Remove head cover, clean.out lint, then di-
rectly oil needle bar link and needle bar. Re-
place head cover and fill machine with oil to
proper
level. Run machine at low RPM to ensure
proper
lubrication of components preventing any
damage which may occur from lack of oil distri-
bution.
9
Fig. 1

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CAUTION: FIii oll reservoir
before starting.
Machine has been drained
before shipping.
FIii main reservoir
here.
Fig. 2
THREADING AND OILING DIAGRAM
FOR ALL STYLES EXCEPT 56300 E,F,G,N,R,U,X,AH and AL
full mark on gauge.
Oil has been drained from machine before shipping and the reservoir must be
filled before starting to operate. Maintain oil level in "OPERATE" zone; add oil when
needle of gauge registers on the black line marked "LOW". Machine is automatically
lubricated
and no oiling other than keeping the main reservoir filled is necessary.
Refer to instructions
under
11
LUBRICATION
11
and "CHANGING STITCH LENGTH" for additional
information.
Thread machine as illustrated above for all Styles except 56300 E,F,G,N,R,U,X,
AH and AL.
10