UnionSpecial 39500 Series Instruction sheet

F INEST QUALITY
ST YL E
39500 GR
CATALOG
No.
103 GR
®
INDUSTRIAL
SEWING
LEWIS • COLUMBIA
MACHINES
CLASS 39500
HI-STYLED
HIGH SPEED OVERSEAMERS
WITH DIFFERENTIAL FEED
FOR FOUNDATION GARMENTS
CHICAGO
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Catalog No. 103 GR
(Supplement to Catalog No. 103 FA)
INSTRUCTIONS
FOR
ADJUSTING AND OPERATING
LIST OF PARTS
CLASS 39500
Style
39500 GR
First Edition
Copyright 1967
By
Union Special Machine Co.
Rights Reserved in All Countries
MACHINE COMPANY
INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINES
CHICAGO
Printed in U.S. A.
2
Decemb e r, 196 7
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IDENTIFICATION OF MACHINES
Each Union Special machine is identified by a Style number on a name plate on
the machine. Style numbers are classified as standard and special. Standard Style
numbers have one or more letters suffixed. but never contain the letter "Z".
Example: "Style 39500 GR". Special Style numbers contain th e letter "Z". When
only minor changes are made in a standard machine. a "Z" is suffixed to the stan-
dard Style number. Example: "Style 39500 GRZ".
Styles of machines similar in construction are grouped under a Class number
which differs from the Style number in that it contains no letters. Example: "Class
39500".
APPLICATION OF CATALOG
This catalog is a supplement to Catalog No. 103 FA and should be used in con-
junction therewith. Only those parts used on Style 39500 GR. but not on Style 39500
FP are illustrated and listed at the back of this catalog. On the page opposite the
illustration will be found a listing of the parts with their part numbers. desc ri ption
and the number of pieces required. Numbers in the first column are reference
numbers only. and merely indicate the position of that pa rt in the illustration. Re-
ference numbers should never be used in ordering parts. Alw a ys use the part num-
ber listed in the second column.
This catalog applies specifically to the standard Style of machine as listed
herein. It can also be applied with discretion to some Special Sty l es of machines in
Class 39500. References to directions. such as right. left, front, back, etc., are
given from the operator's position while seated at the machine. Operating direction
of handwheel is away from operator.
STYLE OF MACHINE
Hi-Styled Hi gh Speed Single Curved Blade Needle. Two Looper-Three Thread or
One Looper-One Spreader-Two Thread Machine. Differential Feed. Trimming Me-
chanism with Spring Pressed Lower Knife. Automatic Lubricating System.
39500 GR Medium to heavy duty machine for break open seaming and attaching of
elastic to girdl es and foundation garments with either a two or three thread
stitch . Machine can be u se d with or without the st a ndard trimming knives. For
those who do not wi sh to trim the material. a front fabric guide is i ncluded.
Seam specification 503 or 505-SSa-1. hinged open to make LSa-1; standard
seam width 1/4 inch; stitch range 8-30 per inch; cam adjusted main and differ-
ential feeds. Maximum recommended speed 6500 R. P.M.
OILING
CAUTION! Oil was drained from machine when shipped. so reservoir must be
filled before beginning to op e rate. Oil capacity of Class 39500 is six ounces. A
straight mineral oil of a Saybolt viscosity of 200 to 250 seconds at 100° Fahrenheit
should be used.
Machine is filled with oil at spring cap in top cover. Oil level is checked at
sight gauge on front of machine. Red bulb on oil level indicator should show between
gauge lines when machine is stationary.
Machine is automatically lubricated. No oiling is necessary, other than keepin g
main reservoir filled. Check oil daily before the morn i ng start; add oil as required.
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OILING {Continued)
The oil drain plug screw is located at back of machine near bottom edge of
base. It is a magnetic screw designed to accumulate possible foreign materials
that have entered the crank case. It should be removed and cleaned periodically.
NEEDLES
Each Union Special needle has both type and size number. The type number
denotes the kind of shank, point, length, groove, finish and other details. The size
number, stamped on the needle shank, denotes largest diameter of blade, measured
in thousandths of an inch, midway between shank and eye. Collectively, type and
size number represent the complete symbol which is given on the label of all nee-
dles packaged and sold by Union Special.
Class 39500 machines use a curved blade needle. The standard recommended
needle for Style 39500 GR is Type 154 GHS. Below is the description and sizes
available of the recommended needle.
Type No.
154 GHS
Description and Sizes
Round shank, round point, curved blade, standard length, single
groove, struck groove, ball point, spotted, chromium plated and is
available in sizes 025, 027, 029, 032, 036, 040.
To have needle orders promptly and accurately filled, an empty packa g e, a
sample needle, or the type and size number should be forwarded. Use description
on label. A complete order would read: "1000 Needles, Type 154 GHS, Size 032".
Selection of proper needle size is determined by size of thread used. Thread
should pass freely through needle eye in order to produce a good stitch formation.
Success in the operation of Union Special machines can be secured only by use
of needles packaged under our brand na me, ~ • which is backed by a re-
putation for producing highest quality ne edles in - materials and workmansh ip for
more than three-quarters of a century.
CHANGING NEEDLES
Release pressure on presser foot by turning presser foot release bushin g {AG,
Fig. 1 and 1A) and s wing presser arm {U) out of position. Turn handwheel in opera-
ting di rection until needle is at its lowest point of travel. Using hexagonal socket
wrench No. 21388 AU, furnished with machine, loosen needle clamp nut about 1/4
turn. Again turn handwheel until needle is at high position; withdraw needle.
To replace needle, leave needle holder at high position and, with the flat to the
left, insert needle in holder until it rests against stop pin. Keeping needle in this
position, turn handwheel until holder is again at its low point of travel; then tighten
nut. Return presser arm (U) to position; re-lock presser foot release bushin g {AG).
THREAD STAND {503 STITCH)
After thread comes from cone on cone support {A, Fig. 1) it is brought up
through the back hole of thread eyelet {B), then down through the front hole of thread
eyelet. The needle thread is then threaded through the upper hole of tension thread
guide {C) from front to back, and then through the lower hole from back to front.
The lower looper thread is threaded through th e upper hole back to front, through
the middle hole from front to back, and finally through the lower hole from back to
front. Both threads then continue between th e tension discs (J), through tension
post slot {K) in tension post (G) and on through front thread guide {M).
4
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THREAD STAND (505 STITCH)
After thread comes from cone on cone support {A, Fig. lA) it is brought up
through the back hole of thread eyelet (B), then down through the front hole of thread
eyelet. The needle and upper looper threads are then threaded through the upper
hole of tension thread guide (C) from front to back, and then through the lower hole
from back to front. The lower looper thread is threaded through the upper hole back
to front. through the middle hole from front to back, and finally through the lower
hole from back to front. All three threads then continue be tween the tension discs
(J). through tension post slot (K) in tension post (G) and on through front thr e ad
guide {M).
NOTE: Refe r to Fig. 1 for the 503 stitch threading or refer to Fig. 1A for the 505
stitch threading.
THREADING
Only parts involved in threading are shown in threading diagrams Fig. 1 a nd
lA. Parts are placed in their relative positions for clarity.
It will simplify the threading of these machines to follow the recommended se-
quence of threading the lower looper first and the needle second, when using the
503 stitch (Fig. 1). The recommended sequence when using the 505 stitch (Fig. 1A)
would be to thread the lower looper first, the upper looper second and the needle
third.
Before beginning to thread, swing cloth plate open, turn handwheel in ope r a t-
ing direction until needle (X) is at high position, release pressure on presser foot
by turning presser foot release bushing {AG) and swing presser arm {U) out of
position.
Be sure the threads, as they come from the tension thread guide (C), are be-
tween tension discs (J) and in tension post slots (K) in tension post {G). The tension
posts should be positioned so the tension post slot will be at the approximate angle
for the different threads as indicated in Fig. 1 and 1A.
TO THREAD THE LOWER LOOPER
Double end of thread and lead it through th e right eyelet of front thread gu id e
(M, Fig. 1 or 1A). Then lead thread through both eyes of lower looper thread ey e-
let (R, Fig. 1 or 1A) from right to left. NOTE: Thread must pass in front of looper
thread pull-off (AF). Lead thread behind fabric guard (S) and through frame loop er
thread guide (T). Turn handwheel in ope rat i ng direction until heel of lower looper
{V) is all the way to the left, then thread through both eyes from left to right. Left
eye of lower looper can be threaded easily if tweezers are in left hand.
NOTE: In Fig. 1A for the 505 stitch, the low er looper thread eyelet is placed in the
upper position.
TO THREAD THE UPPER LOOPER (505 STITCH ONLY)
Double end of thread and lead it through the left eyelet of front thread gu i de (M,
Fig. 1A). Turn handwheel until point of upper looper (W, Fig. 1A) is all the way to
the left. Lead thread through auxiliary looper thread eyelet (P} from back to front,
then through both eyes of upper looper thread eyelet (N) from left to right.
NOTE: Thread must pass in front of looper thread pull-off (AF).
5
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[!] Tension Post
IIJ spring Shield
raJ Front Thread Guide
~~ Lower Looper Thread Ey
~~ Fabric Guard
ID Presser
Fig. 1
~~ Thread Eyelet
6
Cone Support
0
Top Cover
_.,...,. Needle Thread Eyelet
Upper Looper
Thread Tube Assembly
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li]Tension Nut
--
__ .. . .. ~ ' : ... ' ;"
n Tension Discs ,
(~Tension Post Slo~ - .
II Tension Disc Felt·- ..
[i Tension Thread
rlJ Front Thread Guide
(;~Fabric Guard Bracket
DFrame Looper
Thread Guide
m Presser Arm---
Fig. lA
m Thread Eyelet
7
BCone Support
Presser Foot
j~ ~ r-:.-., ~ ·~~~ Release Bushing
Top Cover
.-.~~ Needle Thread Eyelet
Upper Looper
Thread Tube Assembly
Upper Looper
Lower Looper
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TO THREAD THE UPPER LOOPER (505 STITCH ONLY) (Continued)
After pulling up upper looper thread tube assembly (AA). lead thread under
ne ck of top cover casting and down through thread tube assembly (AA). P ull thread
out bottom of tube; push tube down and then insert thread throu gh th e e ye of upper
looper from front to back.
TO THREAD THE NEEDLE
Turn handwhee l in operating direct i on until needle (X. Fig. 1 or 1A) is at its
hi ghest position. Insert needl e thr e ad from right to left. through both eyes of n eedle
thread eyelet (AD). under ne ck of top cover casting; then down through hol e in top
cover needle thre ad eyelet (AC). Thread needle from front.
THREAD TENSION
The amount of t e nsion on the needle and looper threads is regulated by knurled
tension nuts (D. F i g. 1 or 1A). Tension on threads should be only enough to secure
proper stitch formation.
PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE
Sufficient presser foot pressure to feed work uniformly
should be maintained. Should it be necessary to i ncrease or
decrease amount of pressure on presser foot. loosen lock
nut (A. Fig. 2) and turn adjusting screw (B). Adjusting
screw has a r ig ht hand thread so tightening increases pres-
sure. loosening decreases pressure. When pressure adjust-
ing screw (B) has been properly set, tighten lock nut (A).
With presser foot resting on throat plate. position locking
nut (C) so that its under surfac e is approximately 1/32 inch
to 1/16 inch from the top surface of adjusting screw (B).
Set cap (D) against locking nut (C).
FEED ECCENTRICS
Fig. 2
Feed eccentric s used in Style 39500 GR machin es have been selected to produce
approximately 20 stitches per inch. It wi ll be noted that the part number of main
feed eccentric is No. 39540 B- 20, while that of differential feed eccentric is No.
39540 B-18. Minor numbers of the part symbol indicate approximately the number
of st it ches obta i na b le when using that eccentric. Unless otherwise specified, rna-
chine will be shipp ed with above combination of eccentrics.
Generally sp ea king. differential (right hand) feed eccentric determines number
of stitches produc e d; main (left hand) feed eccentric is selected in relation to deg r ee
and direct i on of stretch of material being sewn. or type of operation.
Following stitch number feed eccentrics are available under No. 39540 B-4,- 5,
-6. -7. -a. -9.-10.-11.-12,-13,-14,-15.-16. -1a.-2o. -22.-24.-26,-28,-30,-32,-34,
-36,-40. Only two eccentrics are supplied with e ach machine. Additional eccentrics
may be ordered separately. To order an eccentric, use No. 39540 B with a minor
number suffix ed to i ndicate number of stitches desired. Example: "39540 B- 20".
ASSEMBLING AND ADJUSTING SEWING PARTS
Before assembling and adjusting sewing parts. remove cloth plate. fabric
guard. chip guard. upper knife assembly, lower knife holder assembly. then follow
this suggested sequ e nce:
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ASSEMBLING AND ADJUSTING SEWING PARTS {Continued)
NOTE: The adjusting instructions that follow will pertain to both the 503 and the
505 stitch, the only difference is an upper spreader is used for the 503 stitch, while
an upper looper is used for the 505 stitch. All of the instructions are applicable fo r
both types of stitches, unless otherwise specified.
SETTING THE NEEDLE
With throat plate assembled in position, needle
should center in the front end of needle slot. When
needle is at high position, needle point should be set
15/32 inch above the throat plate (A. F i g. 3). To
align needle or set the height above the throat plate,
move needle driving arm (B, Fig. 3) by loosening
clamp screw {C). After needle has been properly
set, tighten clamp screw and remove throat plate.
If needle thread cam pull-off {A, Fig. 4) over- Fig. 3
laps looper thread pull- off {B), separate by moving
looper thread pull- off back. When retightening loo-
per pull-off screw, be sure to take up end play in
needle driving arm.
At this point, in-
sert lower looper {A,
Fig. 5) into bar {B).
With lower looper at
the left end of its
stroke, set looper point
1/8 inch from center
of needle (Fig. 5), using
loor.ergaugeNo. 21225
-1j8. Do nothave low-
er looper deflecting Fig. 5
Fig. 4 needle. Tighten nut
{C). Now assemble differential {front) feed dog.
SETTING THE REAR NEEDLE GUARD
Set rear needle guard {A, Fig. 6) as high as possi-
ble, without interferring with either lower looper or
movement of lower knife holder, but still in position to
deflect needle forward . 002-. 004 inch. Screw {B) is used
to set rear needle guard. Make sure there is no interfer-
ence between rear needle guard and lower looper.
SETTING THE LOWER LOOPER
Now finish lower looper adjustment. As lower looper
moves to the right, its point should be set into the needle
scarf {A, Fig. 7) until the needle springs forward from
rear needle guard surface another. 002-. 004 inch. Tight-
en nut {C, Fig. 5) securely.
SETTING THE FRONT NEEDLE GUARD
Fig. 6
Assemble front needle guard {C, Fig. 6). When lower looper is springing nee-
dle off back guard, set front needle gua:Pd as close as possible to needle without
touching. Screw {D) is used to adjust and set front needle guard. After this setting
make sure there is no interference between needle guards and differential feed dog.
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SETTING THE UPPER LOOPER OR SPREADER
Insert upper spreader (A, Fig.
8) in its holder. Screw (B) holds up-
per spreader in its holder, and per-
mits it to be pushed in or out, or
turned around its shank. Insert
spreader holder into spreader shaft,
if it is not already in place. Screw
(C, Fig. 8) on clamp collar holds
spreader holder in the shaft, and
allows holder to be rotated or adjust-
ed laterally.
Preliminary Setting: When upper
spreader is at the right end of its Fig. 8
Fig. 7 stroke, spreader holder should be
set to position spreader shank approximately vertical (Fig. 8).
Top endof spreader shank should extend 1/16 to 3/32 inch above the spreader hold-
er (Fig. 8).
NOTE: The above settings also apply when s e tting the upper looper used f or the
505 stitch.
As spreader moves from right to le f t, the Vee notch
of the spreader should pass just behind the ey e of the
lower looper, with . 002 to . 004 inch clearanc e be tween
spreader and lower looper (Fig. 9).
Turn the handwheel until spreader i s at the left end
of its travel. At this position, the lower point of the
spreader should extend about 9/64 i nch to the le ft of the
centerline of the needle and should be 15/32 inch above
the top of the throat plate (Fig. 10). If resetting is neces-
sary, do so by moving the spreader holder (A, Fig. 10).
Now check setting between upper
spreader and needl e. If needle rubs
Fig. 9 the back of spread e r, pull spreader
out of its holder s lig htly and rotat e
spre ader holder forward a short di stance. These same adjust-
ments, in opposite movement, will reduce th e clearance betw en
spreader and needle. Re set to lower looper (Fig. 9).
NOTE: The abov e dim e nsional settin gs and adjustments also
apply when setting the upper looper used f or th e 505 st i tch.
SETTING FEED DOGS Fig. 10
Now
assemble ma in (back) feed do g (B, Fig. 11) and chaining feed (C). Set all
feed dogs (A, B, C, F i g. 11) so the top surfaces of the teeth all lie in the same
plane. This can be checked by si ghting across the teeth with a straight edge. Now
assemble throat plate. Feed dogs should now be le veled with throat pl ate surface by
rotating feed tilting adjusting pin (D). Th is pin raises or lowers the back end of both
feed bars at the same time.
The feed dogs should be set level at the time the teeth first appear above throat
plate. Screw (E) locks feed tilting adjusting pin in place. Now set the feed do gs so
that the teeth rise about 3/64 inch abov e the throat plate.
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