UpRoar J-80 User manual

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J 80
Uproar
Welcome Aboard!
Quick Start Guide/Boat Manual

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J-80 Boat Manual
Seattle Sailing Club
Welcome aboard Uproar, one of our J-80 performance sailboats, is popular for racing and is
complete with a small cabin for short cruises. We are doing everything possible to make sure
this boat is always ready to go. Please treat her with the care she deserves, like she is your
own boat. This manual is designed to make your journey easier and give you the extra
information underway you may be seeking. Help us out by filling out and turning in the user
reports each trip so we can continue providing the safest and best equipment possible.
Thanks and have a great sail! SSC
Uproar is of the favorite boats in our fleet for the following reasons:
Day sailing performance
Racing performance with a well-established fleet
Asymmetrical spinnaker (for qualified charterers)
Uproar’s small cabin has basic sleeping quarters in the v-berth.
Uproar Challenges - Things to Know
Make sure to locate portable running lights.
Electronics are specific to each J-80. Uproar has no built-in lights or instruments.
Make sure to disconnect the fuel line before tilting engine out of water to avoid damaging line
between the transom and the engine.
Always ease the boom vang, main sheet and reefing lines before raising the main sail.
Don’t use the forward hatch as it is prone to breaking if not lowered gently when opening. If you do
open it, Do Not let it slam! Please leave it locked closed.
The companionway hatch slides very easily! Be careful not to lean against and take a tumble down
into the cabin unexpectedly!

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Table of Contents
Boat Specifications p. 4
Inventory list p. 5
Safety Equipment p. 6
Systems
The Engine-Starting/Stopping/Operating p. 7-8
Refueling p. 8
Outboard Diagram p. 9
Electrical Systems p. 10
Sails and Rigging p. 11-23
North Sails J-80 Sail Trim Guide p. 17-19
Main Sail Reefing/ Diagram p. 21-23
Securing Uproar- Post Sail Checklist p. 24-27
J-80 Specifics p. 28-31

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Boat Specifications
LOA: 8.0m or 26.96’/LOD: 26’3”
LWL: 20.0’
Beam: 8’3”
Draft: 4’10”
Mast Height: 37’6”
Fuel Tank capacity: 4 gallons
Anchor: Danforth anchor w Rode: Chain is 15’/ line is 200’ twisted nylon marked in 25’
increments (and coiled in two 100’ coils) stowed in plastic tub below companionway.
Engine: Mercury 4 HP 4 stroke outboard
Accommodations: Sleeps 2 in the V-berth (dbl)
Instrumentation: None
Sails: Main Sail w reef, roller furling genoa/jib, asymmetrical spinnaker.

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Uproar
Inventory List
OPERATIONS EQUIPMENT Location
Danforth anchor w/15’chain and 200’ line Aft of companionway
Boat Hook V-berth to port
2 Winch handles Safety box in v-berth
Roller Furling Headsail (103-107%) w/ attached sheets. Forestay
SAFETY Location
4 Type II PFDs in bag V-berth
1 Type IV Throw cushion “ “
1 LifeSling Stbd. stern pulpit
2 Type BC: 1 - Fire Extinguishers Starboard/port bulkheads
1 Air Horn w/ replacement canister Safety box to starboard v-berth
Flare kit w/ 3 handheld, 1 whistle “ “
Manual Bilge Pump (stbd. cockpit) Handle aft of companionway w/anchor
First Aid kit Aft of companionway with anchor

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Safety Equipment/USCG Required items
Registration- Uproar’s papers are taped permanently to bulkhead.
PFDs- Although each sailor should supply their own PFD to fit their body type
and usage requirements, there are extra personal floatation devices stowed in
the v-berth. Know where and how many are onboard before you leave
the dock. Each member should always wear a life jacket when the boat is
underway. Uproar is equipped with a bag of four Type II PFDs in v-berth.
Type IV’s -There is a USCG throw seat in the v-berth and a LifeSling
secured to the starboard pulpit.
Flares- There is a flare kit with current handheld flares located in the
safety box. Please ensure these are dated properly and look usable.
Fire extinguishers- 2 Type BC: I extinguishers located on the port/starboard bulkhead in the main
salon.
Air Horn- (with 1 replacement air cartridge) located in safety box.
Running lights- There are portable running lights in the safety box.
Check batteries when completing the checklist!
Manual bilge pump in the stbd. cockpit. Handle stored in anchor tub.
First Aid Kit- Located below the companionway with the anchor.
V-berth
Port Bulkhead
(V-berth) Type IV/ PFDs/B-I extinguishers/winch handles/
boat hook/safety boxes w/horn, flares, portable running lights
Anchor w/ 15’ chain and
200’rode /First Aid aft of steps
Registration

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Uproar’s SYSTEMS
The Engine-Starting/Stopping/Operating
Uproar is powered by a 4 HP Mercury 4 stroke outboard engine. This is a great engine and if
cared for during your charter will serve you well. Always make sure the engine is getting coolant,
lubrication, and proper fuel by completing the checklist each day.
Pre-start Checklist:
ALWAYS check the following before starting the engine:
- Engine is lowered into the water.
- Fuel level is more than ½ full
- Fuel tank vent is open
- Connect fuel line
- Ensure fuel petcock selector is in horizontal position (AUX tank) (see diagram)
- Pump bulb
- Kill cord connected
- Engine in neutral (shift through forward, reverse, neutral)
- Choke out
- Throttle in start position keeps cold engine from running too high
(results in damage)
- Make sure water is flowing out after start
Engine and Mount:
The outboard is secured on a motor mount that positions the engine aft of the rudder. To lower the
engine, rock the engine slightly forward and pull up on the stainless steel bail on the starboard side,
then allow the engine to gently tilt down. When in use, the throttle handle will contact the stern pulpit
unless it is raised above the level of the pulpit. At operating speed, the engine will generally remain
straight and the throttle handle can be raised to a vertical so that it does not contact the pulpit. To tilt
up the engine while sailing or at the dock, make sure the gear shift lever is in Forward and pull the
engine up to the horizontal position by grasping the handle on the aft end of the engine cover.
Starting the engine:
After completing the checklist, you are ready to start the outboard. Clear the boom, and crewmates
away from swing room as you will need clearance to get a good long pull on the start cord. With each
pull, try to get the maximum length of cord utilized by a quick snapping action at the last. Wait 3
seconds before next pull. It should start in 3-5 pulls. Once running, push in the choke until the engine
is running smoothly. To achieve full-throttle range the choke typically has to be completely pushed in
once the engine is warmed up.
If the engine doesn’t start:
Go back through checklist to problem solve. Sometimes the fuel line is not fully attached, the kill switch
is not fully connected, or the vent is not open enough. Recheck everything, then retry.

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Flooded engine:
Too soft/short of pulls can result in a flooded engine. If you smell rich fuel and engine hasn’t started
after 6 or more pulls, you have probably flooded. If so disconnect fuel, turn throttle way up and pull
several strokes to clear. Try again. If still flooded, contact the dock staff. You may have to wait 20
minutes before retrying.
Engine Operation:
Cold outboards typically like to run at a moderate pace; Once they are warmed up they should idle and
run smoothly at low RPMs. Never run an engine high before it is warmed up as you can break cold
metal pieces. Running the engine in neutral a couple minutes after start (to warm up) as well as a
couple minutes before you kill the engine (to cool down) optimizes performance and increases engine
longevity. The challenge is keeping a good RPM (without operating at high speed inside the marina),
but slow enough to keep it from cutting out. It is best to utilize neutral whenever possible to rev up
engine and coast. Anytime you are shifting gears make sure to slow throttle speed to low. Shifting too
high can sever the shear pin which protects the transmission.
To achieve a tighter turn radius, angling the engine the same direction as the tiller can be very effective
especially in reverse.
Warning: Make sure engine is well secured with clamps turned tightly to the right. (Righty
tighty

) Never loosen these underway and risk dropping engine into the water. Also, the safety
line should be connected from engine to the boat. Especially with rough seas.
Stopping the engine
To shut down the engine, throttle down, put into neutral then pull off the kill switch. Once the engine
stops, disconnect fuel line. Next, hoist the engine out of the water by first shifting to forward gear and
tilt to completely clear. (Engine will not tilt unless it is shifted into forward.) Close tank vent.
Refueling- Mercury 4 stroke engines only burn unleaded! Not diesel or pre-mix. Disconnect fuel line
from engine then close vent on tank. Carry to fuel dock downwind of boat to avoid filling cabin with
fumes. Fill tank watching closely for overflow. Fuel dock pumps do not have auto shut-off valves.
Once full, reconnect to engine, open valve, then go through start procedures. Only refuel if you had the
boat for an overnight. SSC will refuel day-sail charters.
Safety precautions:
Anytime you smell gas fumes in the cabin, do not start engine until you have completely ventilated the
boat by opening all compartments.
Never leave the fuel tank up high in the cockpit when you are motoring outside of the marina. A falling
fuel tank could cause a fire!

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Electrical Systems
Uproar does not have shore power so has no built-in instrumentation.Instead, the boat is equipped
with portable running lights stowed in the safety boxes.
Always keep a chart handy since there is no depth sounder.
Running Lights: Uproar has portable running lights located in the safety box. Always operate
after dark, when in fog, or anytime there is limited visibility. Make sure batteries are charged before
you leave the dock. Remember, red to port, green to starboard, and white off the stern.

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Sails and Rigging

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Roller Furling Jib/Genoa-
This sail remains hoisted so
the jib halyard should not be
removed from the cleat.
Uproar’s jib halyard is a
red/white line secured on the
cam cleat and coiled on the
port side of the mast.
If you accidentally release the
jib halyard, make sure to re-
tension before furling or
unfurling the sail. It can get
jammed up top if there is
slack in the halyard while
furling.

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To unfurl, first head onto a broad reach to reduce apparent
wind. Uncoil and uncleat furling line which runs from the bow
roller to a cleat adjacent the companionway to port. Prepare to
control the speed of the furl with this line by taking a single
wrap around a winch or cleat as a leverage point. To unfurl,
pull on the working jib sheet. Ease lazy sheet as needed. Ease
furling line slowly to avoid an override in the spool at the bow.
To furl the headsail, again head onto a broad reach to reduce
apparent wind and allow the sail to furl quietly and smoothly.
Ease sheets enough to allow furling line to start the roll. Keep
gentle pressure on both sheets as the furling line is being
hauled in to create an even wrap. Wrap sheets a minimum of
three times around the furl to well secure for winds at the dock.
Secure all lines.
Reefing the roller furling headsail
J-80 headsails are designed as a 103-107% genoa. This allows
the option of furling the sail to any number of sail sizes based
on wind requirements. Some sails have black tape lines at
desired reef points. Most do not so it is best to look at the sail
and furl to a point where the sail is smooth and does not have
creases which can stress the sail fabric. To furl a sail, ease
working jib sheet first, haul in furling line to desired sail size,
then re-tension jib sheet. Fairleads typically will have to be
adjusted to accommodate new size.
Jib Winch/Roller Furling line (black)
Jib Halyard on port side Cam cleat

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Main Sail
Uproar Sail Configuration
The J/80 has a lot of sail area for its size and therefore can become very over pressed in strong winds.
Uproar has a full main with a single slab reefing point and a 103-7% roller furling Genoa. Be prepared to reef
the main early and set up the reef at the dock before you go. The saying "twist is fast" is always true and the
telltales on the main should always be flying free. In strong winds a J/80 is more like a dinghy and needs much
flatter sails. This means that the mainsail must be deep and powerful in its form to power the boat in light winds,
but at the same time able to be completely flattened in strong. In winds between 6 and 12 knots our design is at
its maximum power. In lighter winds the leech has to be open to help flow around the sail. In harder winds the
leech has to be opened again but now because crew weight no longer will hold the boat upright so power must be
drained off. -North Sails Sail Trim Guide

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Rigging the Mainsail
To rig the main, first detach halyard from the end of the boom. Uproar is rigged to hold up the boom
with a topping lift (not a spring-loaded boom vang) so be careful not to disconnect wrong line. Attach
halyard shackle to the head of the main sail making sure halyard is free and clear to the top. Next, ease
boom vang, untie sail ties, and uncoil mainsheet for preparation of hoisting. Make sure reefing lines are
eased as well unless you pre-reefed at the dock. On a windy day, pre-rig the reefing line through reefing
cringle to simplify the reefing process on the water. If wind speed is over 18 knots, make sure to reef
before you leave the dock (see section on reefing the main).
The main halyard on Uproar is the grey line that runs down the port side of the mast to the cleat.
When not in use, the halyard is shackled to the end of the boom. Don’t let go of the halyard before
attached unless you feel like taking a climb!
Hoisting the main:
Typically done outside the marina, J-80 mainsails do not require feeding the bolt rope into the mast like
the J24s. It can be helpful to have a crewmember jump the halyard at the mast and a second person take
up the slack in the cockpit aft of the halyard clutch. Sail should go up easily. Do Not use a winch to
raise the sail as the lines do not lead directly into the winch drum and you will end up with an override!
As the sail is raised, look up to make sure sail is going up free of obstacles. Once sail is raised, coil
halyard for safety. Ease topping lift so it doesn’t interfere with sail shape.
Only raise the main halyard if the boat is head to wind so there is no load on the halyard and no winch is
required (although it may be necessary to help the sail slides up so they don’t jam in the sail track above
the gooseneck.) Be careful not to over-hoist the sail (above the black band at the top of the mast)or the
leech of the sail will hang up on the backstay. Secure halyard cleat on port side of the mast and coil
remainder to keep out of the water.
Lowering the main:
With the topping lift tensioned lower the sail and flake as you go. This is a typically a two-person
operation with a person fore and aft. If it is too choppy, bring the sail down best you can and throw some
ties around it to stabilize planning to fold properly when you reach the dock. Once flaked, reconnect the
halyard to the boom, ease vang, and raise boom to a desired horizontal position.
Main Halyard Cleat Flaked Main

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Main sail Adjustments
Boom Vang Outhaul
Topping Lift/Main halyard Cunningham
Backstay adjustment
Main sheet & traveler
Topping Lift (Jam cleat)
Cunningham
Backstay

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Main sail Controls and Sail Trim explained by J-80 Tuning Guide:
Back stay
Trimming of the backstay is the key to boat speed in all winds. In light winds a light pull in the
backstay lets the draft in the mainsail sit at around 50%, in medium winds the forestay is
straightened with the help of a medium pull on the backstay and in hard wind a flat mainsail is
achieved by fully trimming the backstay hard. Make reference marks on one of the backstay
split wires so that trim is repeatable over different wind strengths.
Mainsheet
The most dynamic and important trim function on a J/80. (See below)
Outhaul
With the outhaul eased the lower sections of the mainsail are very full. The outhaul is used to
flatten these lower sections when beating. Like all boats in full power conditions the outhaul
should be eased slightly and with increasing breeze the lower sections should be continuously
flattened.
Cunningham
The cunningham is used in winds over 12 knots to move the draft on the mainsail forward at
the same time flattening out the sail. The foredeck crew adjusts the cunningham with the use
of a 3:1 purchase.
Kicker (Boom vang)
The kicker is used to adjust the mainsails twist on runs.
Jib Sheet
A window in the luff of the mainsail enables the jib trimmer to see the leach of the jib in relation
to the lower spreader.
Halyard tension
Just like the mainsail the jibs depth and draft position is controlled by the jib halyard.
Mainsail Trim
In really light winds, between 0 and 2 knots, the mainsail should be trimmed so that the
leech is as open as possible. The traveler should be trimmed 30 centimeters to windward of
the centerline and the mainsheet should be eased so that the end of the boom sits 20
centimeters to lee of centerline. The outhaul is eased 4-5 centimeters from the black line.
Backstay, Cunningham and kicker are completely loose.
When the wind increases to 6 knots, sheet the mainsail harder so that the boom nears the
centerline of the boat. The top telltale should just start to flick back behind the leech, the mid
telltale should be free flying. The backstay should be tightened slightly so that draft is placed at
around 50%. With 8 knots the mainsheet is tightened even more and the traveler is eased
down to about 20 centimeters to windward of the centerline. The mainsheet can now be
tightened slightly more but not so much as for the top telltale to stand behind the sale for more
than 20 % of the time. The boom should now be on the boats centerline. The outhaul is now 20
millimeters from the black band. The cunningham should still be loose.

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Bend with light backstay @ 8 knots20 knots
J-80 Tuning Guide (cont.)
With 10 to 12 knots of breeze the mainsail is flattened slightly by bending the mast through
mainsheet and backstay. Mainsheet is tightened so that the top telltale stands behind the sail
for 20% of the time. Harder sheet enables the boat to take more height. The boom should still
be in the middle of the boat but the outhaul should now be all the way out to the black band
and the Cunningham should be adjusted so that most of the wrinkles in the luff, but not all,
should disappear. This is maximum power trim, if your crew is light you will be over powered
soon, if you are heavy you will be able to hold this trim longer. Depending on the weight of the
crew full power situation should be met at around 12-14 knots of wind. To minimize the healing
moment and to increase speed with this wind strength more back stay is needed, and the
traveler should be lowered to the center line.
The mainsheet should be used so that the mains top telltale is not stalled. This will reduce
speed inthese wind strengths. The mainsheet is the most dynamic trim function and should be
trimmed continuously with every puff and lull. The backstay is also a very important trim
function in medium to heavy breezes. Through the fact that in the gusts the back stay flattens
both the mainsail and the jib so that the boat stays flat and fast. But for example in a situation
where extra height is needed (say for instance rounding the leeward mark with a boat to lee)
easing the backstay will close the leach and the boat will sail high without loosing drive.
Through playing the backstay mainsail trim can be prioritized between extra speed or extra
height. With about 16 knots the cunningham can be tightened so hard that all the wrinkles
disappear in the luff of the main. Draft is moved forwards and the leach is opened even more.
In winds over 20 knots the main should be completely flat and the sails lower third should do
all the work. Outhaul, cunningham and kicker should be on all the way. The kicker makes the
mast bend in the lower third making the mainsail even flatter. The traveler should be 15
centimeters below the center line. How much power the mainsail gives is regulated by the
backstay. Don't be afraid to put a little bit of extra on. In gusty winds the playing of the back
stay is not quick enough to keep the boat on it's feet without the traveler being dumped at the
same time. The traveler should be eased so that the boat finds it's balance, especially in big
waves (which are often found at these wind strengths). With the right trim the boat should be
leaping over the waves. If the boat feels heavy or wants to gripe to weather it is a sign that the
mainsail has too much power. When the mainsail is properly trimmed, i.e. flat and with an open
leach the boat should feel well balanced and easy to steer.
Jib Trim
Three functions control the jib; sheet, lead position and halyard tension. The sheet works on
twist and how flat the sail should be sheeted. The jib should have the same angle attack up the
entire height of the luff and the leach should match the mainsails shape. The lead position
dictates the depth of the jib in the lower third and the amount of power the leach produces.
Fast trim - flat water: The lead position should be aft so that the lower part of the jib is flat and
the middle batten is parallel with the center line. Power trim - waves: Lead position moved
forwards to give a deeper bottom third and close the leach slightly. Halyard tension controls
draft position, mainly in the top. Slight amount of halyard tension in light and medium winds
gives the sail it's designed form. In stronger winds it helps with more halyard tension to twist
the jib open, and helps the draft from slipping backwards.

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J-80 Tuning Guide (cont.)
In winds between 0-10 knots the lead position should be adjusted so that the luff of the jib
brakes or backs evenly when the boat luffs up. If it backs in the top first the lead position is to
far aft and vice versa. Halyard\tension should be lightly applied. In really light winds small
wrinkles should be seen running away from the forestay.
In over 10 knots the head of the sail should back slightly before the lower 2/3's of the sail.
This enables the helmsman to steer a much wider and varied angle to the wind. Sheeting
should be adjusted so that the leach telltale above the top batten flies straight aft. This is
good reference for the jib sheet trimmer to look at through the mainsails spreader window.
Just like the mainsail the jib should be flattened and twisted in hard winds. Forestay tension
is increased using the backstay. Halyard tension is tensioned very hard, and the lead position
is moved about two holes back. The upper half of the luff now backs slightly earlier than the
lower half when luffing. In very hard and gusty winds it's probably easier to ease the sheet
slightly to open up the slot between the main and the jib to give a slightly more easily
controlled boat. This also applies in a sloppy sea when twist and drive are an important factor.
J-80 North Sails -Tuning Guide

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