Veco Frigoboat Paris 35F Service manual

Frigoboat
Marine Refrigeration Systems
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Installation & Instruction Manual
For All Models:
Air Cooled, Pumped-Water Cooled,
Keel Cooled, and Keel-plus-Air Cooled
(Systems using Secop (formally Danfoss) BD 35 or BD 50 compressors)
It is important to read this manual thoroughly before
installing and operating a Frigoboat system.
Veco NA
301.352.6962
[email protected]
Rev 39 – 02/2019

Cautions! - Warnings!
 Frigoboat refrigeration systems are designed to preserve foodstuffs, drinks, and other
consumables intended for human consumption, and at normal refrigerator and freezer
temperatures. Any use other than that specified above invalidates the warranty and releases
Veco NA LLC of any liability for consequent damage, failure, malfunction, injury, illness, or
death.
 Never install items containing electrical or electronic components in an area where there is the
potential for liquids to splash onto them or drip down onto them.
 In the unlikely event that servicing is required, never inject anything but unadulterated pure
refrigerant R134a into any Frigoboat system. The addition of even a small amount of leak
detecting fluid, leak sealer, extra refrigerant oil, “conditioner”, flushing fluid, Thawzone, or other
substances may cause irreversible damage.
 Never operate a Keel Cooled system while the boat is out of the water without having first
rigged some form of temporary water cooling on the Keel Cooler. If a Capri air cooled
condensing unit or an Air Add-On air cooled condenser is installed together with a Keel
Cooler, ensure that the fan is operated only when the boat is out of the water, and then
switched off when the boat is launched.
 Never defrost an evaporator using a hard or sharp object like an ice pick, knife, or screwdriver.
Never defrost using an appliance that generates high heat, like a heat gun or hairdryer. Natural
defrosting is safest, but mild heat may be used if absolutely necessary.
 With a Keel Cooler installation, it is vital that the Keel Cooler be electrically connected to a
point that is at the same potential as the boat’s battery negative, with no switch in the circuit
between the Keel Cooler connection and the battery negative.
Contents
Chapter 1 Frigoboat Systems
Chapter 2 Paris 35F, Capri 35F, Capri 50F - Air cooled
Chapter 3 W35F, W50F - Water cooled with pump
Chapter 4 K35F, K50F - Water cooled with Keel Cooler
Chapter 5 Danfoss or Secop Electronic Controller for Frigoboat systems
Chapter 6 Aluminum H-, F- and B-Type Evaporators (Horizontal, Flat, Bin)
Chapter 7 Mechanical thermostat for H-, B-, and F-evaporators
Chapter 8 Spillover Kit Installation Instructions
Chapter 9 Quick Connect Refrigerant Fittings
Chapter 10 Electrical
Chapter 11 Troubleshooting Guide

Chapter 1
Frigoboat Systems
A Frigoboat refrigeration system consists of the following components:
(1) A compressor/condensing unit that is either:
Air cooled – Paris 35F, Capri 35F, Capri 50F
Pumped-water cooled – W35F, W50F (with pump)
Keel cooled – K35F, K50F (with keel cooler)
Keel plus Air Cooled - Paris 35F, Capri 35F, or Capri 50F with Keel Cooler
(2) An electronic controller connected to and installed on the compressor.
(3) Either a mechanical thermostat dedicated for either refrigerator or freezer or a Coastal MK 3
digital thermostat/thermometer
(5) An aluminum or stainless steel evaporator plate
(6) A water pump (For W35F or W50F only)
(7) A Keel Cooler. Standard with K35F and K50F models, optional with Air Cooled models.
APPLICATION
Frigoboat refrigeration systems are designed to preserve foodstuffs, drinks, and other consumables
intended for human consumption, and at normal refrigerator and freezer temperatures. Any use
other than that specified above invalidates the warranty and releases Veco NA LLC of any liability
for consequent damage, failure, malfunction, injury, illness, or death.
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Chapter 2
Paris 35F, Capri 35F, Capri 50F - Air cooled
These units are designed to be mounted with compressor right way up on a horizontal surface in areas
where they will not be susceptible to physical or water damage, but accessible for service. They
require good ventilation, preferably expelling the heated air to another location by attaching a flexible
duct of not more than 6' in length to the duct ring on the unit. A duct kit is available for Capri 35 and
Capri 50 models. Do not add any filter type material anywhere in the air flow.
If air is required to be drawn into the unit from another area, the fan may be reversed by removing the
housing and re-mounting the fan in the opposite orientation. Reversing the fan leads does not make
the fan run in reverse, and the incorrect polarity will result in the fan not operating.
There should be adequate ventilation to allow cool air to enter the condenser, and precautions
made to prevent the heated expelled air from being drawn back in. The temperature of the air
entering the condenser determines the efficiency of the system. Re-circulating the heated air back into
the condenser in a sealed or poorly ventilated cabinet will result in poor system performance. Poor
system performance will also result from air being drawn in from a heated space, i.e. an engine room.

Chapter 3
W35F, W50F - Water cooled with pump
NOTE: The W35F and W50F compressors are designed to work with sea water only. They are not
designed to use water from other sources, i.e. water tanks, skin tanks, or coolant pumped through
secondary heat exchangers. Serious health risks and/or performance issues can occur if any form of
liquid coolant delivery is used other than sea water being pumped directly into the system and then
expelled back overboard.
This unit must be mounted with compressor right way up on a horizontal surface in an area where it
will not be susceptible to physical or water damage, but accessible for service. Consideration should be
given for access to the water and refrigerant line connections. A mounting kit is supplied with the
compressor that includes rubber mounts and steel inserts. The unit may be screwed or bolted down
using the supplied white, plastic washers, if desired. If a Bulkhead Bracket (PN E52135) is used,
remove the stainless steel mounts from the compressor and use the plastic mounts provided with the
Bulkhead Bracket.
3:1 Raw water pump
The pump supplied by Frigoboat is self-priming and requires a good intake strainer of 120 mesh. Other
pumps of similar performance may be used. After installation, check for leaks and a water flow of at
least 1 gal/min. The pump power must be supplied through a 12v relay whose coil is connected to the
fan terminals. The fan terminals on the module are limited to a current draw of 0.7 amps and will
deliver 12v even if the system is connected to a 24v supply. Full wiring instructions are included with
the compressor.
If more than one W35 or W50 is sharing a single water pump, they must be plumbed in a parallel
configuration so that the pump output is split equally to each unit, and each unit receives water direct
from the pump. The water discharges from each unit can then be combined into one single overboard
discharge. Multiple W35 or W50 units must not be plumbed in a series string; i.e. pump output into
unit 1; output from unit 1 to inlet of unit 2, etc., etc.
The positive (+) lead to the pump can be wired in parallel to the individual 12v relays so that any unit
can operate the water pump independent of the other(s).
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Chapter 4
K35F, K50F - Water cooled with Keel Cooler
The compressor unit must be mounted with compressor right way up on a horizontal surface in an area
where it will not be susceptible to physical or water damage, but accessible for service. Consideration
must be given to the fact that the compressor must be mounted within 5' of the Keel Cooler. This
dimension cannot and must not be extended.
A mounting kit is supplied with the compressor that includes rubber mounts and steel inserts. The unit
may be either screwed or bolted down using the supplied white, plastic washers, if desired. If a
Bulkhead Bracket (PN E52135) is used, remove the stainless steel mounts from the compressor and
use the plastic mounts supplied with the Bulkhead Bracket.
4:1 Keel Cooler
This must be mounted through the hull by drilling a 1 9/16" (40mm) hole (a 1.5" hole may be used,
carefully enlarging it, if necessary). Make a dry run(s) without the rubber O-ring and sealant installed,

making sure that the keel cooler fits up flush with the hull, chamfering the hole if necessary. The
rubber O-ring must then be installed and properly seated in the groove provided. Do not install
the Keel Cooler without the rubber O-ring. Adequate sealant of the correct type must be used, and a
bead applied to the area between the O-ring and the shaft of the Keel Cooler is all that is normally
required. The compressing of the rubber O-ring will serve to force sealant into any voids around the
shaft as the fitting is tightened. Consult your local marine store if you are uncertain of which sealant to
use. With the sintered “Ground Plate” models, a dab of sealant should also be applied to the fore and
aft ends of the Keel Cooler where it meets the hull to secure its orientation. If installing the “Bare
Bones” model, an adequate amount of sealer should be applied under the end fairing cap before the cap
is secured to the hull with screws.
When installing the thread-type Keel Cooler you will need someone to hold the Keel Cooler outside
the boat while you tighten the nut inside. The mounting location should be carefully chosen. Select
a location with a flat exterior surface, as a concave area will damage the sintering on the Keel
Cooler when it is tightened. Also, avoid areas where lifting slings may be applied or where other
damage may occur. On the boat’s interior, the Keel Cooler should be installed in a location that
is normally dry, and not where it is likely to be submerged or be subjected to frequent and/or
heavy dousing.
Consideration should be given to the fact that the Keel Cooler must be below the water-line, and the
compressor unit must be mounted within 5' of the Keel Cooler location. On power boats it may be
possible to mount the Keel Cooler in a vertical orientation on a section of the transom that is below the
waterline when at rest. Keep the two tubes from the Keel Cooler separate from each other, and do not
insulate them.
It is extremely important to orientate the cylindrical Filter/Drier fitted to the Keel Cooler
discharge tube in a vertical manner, with the arrow pointing downwards. Failure to do so will
lead to poor system performance.
Special constraints and working practices apply when installing the keel cooler on a vessel with a
cored, metal, or carbon fiber hull. For these applications we suggest you consult a marine professional
who is conversant in that particular field.
4:2 Grounding and cleaning
Provision is provided for a grounding/bonding wire to be attached. It is very important that the Keel
Cooler is electrically connected to a point that is at the same potential as the boat’s battery
negative, with no switch in the circuit between the Keel Cooler connection and the battery
negative. This connecting wire should be green in color and of 8 AWG or higher.
If the Keel Cooler being installed is the type without zincs, it must be connected to the vessel’s
bonding system and also to a sacrificial zinc anode. This is an important safety precaution and does
not alter the fact that a connection must be made between the Keel Cooler and a point that is at the
same potential as the boat’s battery negative, whether the Keel Cooler has zincs or not. Bonding wire
should be green in color and of 8 AWG or higher.
If the installer is in any doubt as to how to make the grounding/bonding connections, a marine
electrical technician should be consulted.
The connections must be checked with a multi-meter after installation to ensure that Keel Cooler and
the battery negative post are at the same potential.
The sintered “Ground Plate” Keel Cooler should not be painted unless heavy and consistent fouling
proves to be an issue. Clean occasionally with a brush, never with a metal scraper. All models of Keel
Cooler must be inspected periodically for corrosion.

NOTE: Never operate a Keel Cooled system while the boat is out of the water without having first
rigged some form of temporary water cooling on the Keel Cooler. If a Capri air cooled condensing
unit or an Air Add-On air cooled condenser is installed together with a Keel Cooler, ensure that the
fan is operated only when the boat is out of the water, and then switched off when the boat is
launched.
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Chapter 5
Danfoss/Secop Electronic Controller for Frigoboat systems
The Danfoss/Secop Electronic Controller is an integral part of the Danfoss/Secop BD compressor
system. It transforms direct current power from the vessel’s batteries into modified alternating current
to run the compressor. Never attempt to run the compressor directly from the batteries or other
power source.
5:1 Voltage
A supply voltage of either nominal 12 or 24 volts dc is required. The controller will run from either
voltage without any special settings or adjustments, switching automatically to 24v mode if the voltage
is above 17v.
5:2 Multi-speed compressor
Depending on the system, automatic or manual compressor speed selection is used to run the
compressor at speeds between 2000 RPM and 3500 RPM. NOTE: With no form of compressor speed
control installed, the compressor will run at the slowest speed and with the lowest capacity. The Paris
35F has no speed control, running at 2000 RPM. All others must have either a manually adjustable
compressor speed controller like a Speed Board, or alternatively, an automatic smart speed control
such as the MerlinII Smart Speed Controller. If your compressor unit comes with a Speed Board
installed and you are installing a MerlinII, the Speed Board must be removed from the Danfoss/Secop
controller.
5:3 Fault Codes
Protection is provided for the following:
(1) Low voltage. To prevent the batteries from being totally discharged, the compressor will be
stopped if the voltage at the terminals on the controller falls below 10.4volts (22.8v on a 24v
system). It will not re-start until the voltage rises above 11.7 volts (24.2 on a 24v system).
(2) High voltage. If the voltage exceeds 17v, the controller stops the compressor and switches
into 24v mode, but will not attempt to start the compressor until the voltage reaches 24.2v.
(3) Compressor non-start. If the compressor does not start, the controller will cease the starting
process and attempt a re-start approximately every 45-90 seconds.
(4) Compressor speed too low. If the compressor speed falls below 1900 RPM the controller will
stop the compressor.
(5) Fan (and pump) protection. If the current draw across the fan terminals exceeds 0.7 amps at
12v dc, the compressor will be stopped and a re-start attempted every 45-90 seconds.
(6) Module overheat. If the heat sink on the controller exceeds 100 deg C (212 deg F), the
compressor will be stopped and will be re-started when normal operating temperatures are
resumed.

5:4 LED Alarm Indicator - Diagnostic Diode
A 12v LED may be installed across the "+" and "D" (or “D/I”) terminals of the controller to indicate a
failure condition. On the Coastal MK3 one is installed on the front panel and labeled “Fault”. On the
MerlinII a red LED is installed on the face of the PCB and labeled “Alarm”. Under a fault condition, the
compressor will be stopped and an attempted restart will be made approximately every 45 -90 seconds.
Under this condition the LED will blink between 1 and five times every 5 seconds, as follows:
1 Blink: Supply voltage low, below 10.4v on a 12v system, 22.8v on a 24v system
2 Blinks: Excessive load on fan terminals, above 0.7 amps
3 Blinks: Compressor non-start (Common occurrence, and normal when compressor
stopped and started again too quickly)
4 Blinks: Compressor speed below 1900 RPM
5 Blinks: Controller electronics temp too high. Re-sets on cool-down
Note 1
After power is applied to the controller there may be a delay of up to 30 seconds before the compressor
starts.
Note 2
If initial power is applied that is above the low-voltage threshold but below the cut-in voltage value
(see 5:3 (1), digital displays will be lit, but the compressor will not start and there will be no
fault indication on the LED. System will start when voltage is increased above the cut-in value.
Note 3
The electronic controller, although designed for harsh and marine applications, can be damaged by
either direct or incidental contact with water and by water flowing down wires attached to the
terminals. When attaching wires to the terminals on the controller, make sure that all wires approach
from below the terminal, and endeavor to mount the compressor and controller combination in a
location that is clear of existing and potential water leaks.
Note 4
The electronic controller is secured to the compressor by a single screw and a push-on three-pin plug.
The hole in the controller housing is larger than the screw head, and it is permissible to lever the casing
over the screw for easier removal if access is limited.

Chapter 6
Aluminum H-, F- and B-Type Evaporators
(Horizontal, Flat, Bin Type)
6:1 Location
All types of evaporator need to be located as high as possible in the icebox to maintain the correct
temperatures, with consideration being given to access to the interior freezing section in the H and B-
type. Special attention must be given to the fact that air flow must be allowed to circulate to and
from the rear of the evaporator plate. This necessitates leaving a gap of approximately 1” between
the top of the evaporator and the roof of the box, and similar spacing at the lower edge. In conjunction
with this, it is important that the ¾” spacers provided be used to offset the evaporator on all points
from the icebox wall. Additional spacers may be fashioned from wood, hose, or similar material, if
required.
The H- and B-types may be mounted in any position. The F-type must be mounted with the indicator
arrows pointing upwards, on a vertical wall, and with the refrigerant channels running in a horizontal
orientation.
Do not alter the orientation of the tubing and/or tubing components secured to the end of the
evaporator plate. Do not remove any securing zip ties, or attempt to straighten the tubing.
6:2 Bending Instructions for flat plates:
The F-type flat evaporators may be carefully bent on a minimum 1.5" radius to follow the shape of the
icebox. This is best done by holding a section of suitably padded PVC pipe (with an outside diameter
of 3.0" or greater) firmly down on the plate, and then carefully bending the section upwards with the
palm of your hand. The stainless steel plates need more force to bend and may require the assistance of
a second person. This must be done slowly and with great care to avoid excessive kinking of the
channels in the evaporator. Never attempt to bend a plate downwards over a pipe, as damage may
result. The area to be bent should be warmed with a hair dryer or heat gun to approximately 200F
before bending, in order to prevent the paint from cracking. There are sections of the evaporator that
must not be bent, and these are indicated on the Bending Sheet included with the evaporator. If the
Bending Sheet has been misplaced, a replacement can be obtained from Coastal Climate Control.
All F-type evaporators can be mounted with either side facing inwards, including the 380F
which has one smooth side and one with channels. F-type plates with a stainless steel cover must be
mounted with the stainless side facing inwards.
6:3 Installation
All evaporators have approximately 9' of copper tubing attached, with dust-plugs in the end
fittings that must remain installed until the very last moment when the connections are ready
to be made. A 1.5" hole needs be drilled in the wall of the icebox, as high as possible, and
through successive bulkheads, as required. Carefully unroll the tubing, feeding it through the
holes to the area where the compressor/condenser is located. Any bends that need to be
fashioned in the tubing must be made carefully with as large a radius as possible to avoid kinking.
Excess tubing should be carefully coiled up outside of the box and fastened out of the way in a
horizontal orientation. One tube is made intentionally longer than the other to enable as small a
hole as possible to be made in the box wall, bulkheads, etc. and this allows the couplings to be fed
through one after the other. When the tubing run is complete, carefully fashion the longer tube so
that the two halves of the coupling can be easily connected. Some evaporators have fragile
sections of aluminum tubing close to the body of the evaporator that must be handled very
carefully. Warnings to that effect are attached to the evaporators in question.

The section of foam insulation that is free to slide on the tubing should be positioned starting at the
point where the tubing exits the icebox and leads back to the compressor. It is neither necessary
nor desirable to add more insulation to the tubing, as any sweating or ice formation seen on the
exposed section of tubing indicates an overcharged condition which will require remedial action.
Once the evaporator is installed, the exit hole in the box must be sealed with expanding foam,
refrigeration putty, or other suitable material that will inhibit air flow. Make sure that any drains are
plugged and that there are no other holes or gaps through which cold air can escape, and through
which warm, moist air can enter.
If the tubing is too short to reach the compressor/condensing unit, pre-charged extensions are available
in 3 ft, 6 ft, and 10 ft lengths.
6:4 Mechanical thermostat sensing tube attachment
Check to see how you need to attach the Mechanical Thermostat sensing tube before mounting the
evaporator. The last 3" or so of the Mechanical Thermostat’s sensing tube must be bent into a "U"
shape and then secured under the black plastic plate on the evaporator so that it lays in the special
grooves of the plastic plate. Finish by tightening the clamping screw.
If using the Coastal MK3 digital thermostat, the sensor mounts on the icebox wall, not on the
evaporator. Full instructions are included with the Coastal MK3 thermostat.
6:5 Mounting evaporators
See also 6:1 Location
H- and B-type evaporator plates can be mounted in any position.
To mount the H-type horizontally, drill four mounting holes in the roof of the icebox. Start two screws
in the rear holes. Slide the mounting slots of the evaporator over the screws, then insert and tighten the
two front screws. Finish by tightening the two rear screws.
The B-type can be mounted by using the row of holes along the top rear face of the evaporator. There
are Lid Kits available for the 340B and 250B evaporators to facilitate horizontal mounting.
The F-type has numerous mounting holes along the top and bottom edges, but only some need be used.
Do not attempt to cut, trim, or drill holes in any evaporator for any purpose. Holes may be drilled
in the base that has been added to B-type evaporators, as this is a separate piece of aluminum.
Always use the ¾” mounting spacers supplied to protect the tubing and to provide adequate air
circulation. Additional spacers may be fashioned from hose or similar material, if required.

Chapter 7
Mechanical Thermostat for H, B, and F Evaporators
(See separate instruction sheet for Coastal MK3)
7:1 Refrigerator & Freezer thermostats
There are two different thermostats for different applications. The refrigerator version is mounted in a
white housing and is designed to be used where the evaporator is mounted in an icebox that is intended
to be kept at refrigerator temperatures. If the evaporator is of the H- or B-type and is correctly sized, a
refrigerator mechanical thermostat is used and this ensures that the interior portion of these evaporators
will be kept at freezer temperatures.
The freezer version is mounted in a blue housing and must be used where the evaporator is mounted in
a space that is intended to be all at freezer temperatures.
If an existing icebox is divided with an insulated barrier, a spillover system can be employed whereby
the evaporator is mounted in the freezer compartment, and a thermostatically controlled fan, mounted
on the refrigerator side of the barrier, draws air from the freezer to keep the refrigerator section at the
desired temperature. A gap or holes at the top of the barrier allow air to return to the freezer.
7:2 Mounting
The mechanical thermostat can be mounted either inside the icebox, or in an alternative location that is
within the scope of the sensing tube. If the thermostat is mounted inside the box make sure that liquids
or condensation cannot flow down the shaft and into the mechanism by positioning the housing so that
the shaft exits either on the bottom or the side. The Frigoboat logo will be the right way up if the
thermostat is mounted correctly. Markings can be made on the perimeter of the knob to assist in
determining the setting. Do not mount on the ceiling of the box. The sensing tube controls the
thermostat by the pressure of the gas it contains and must not be kinked, broken, or cut. Any excess
tubing may be carefully coiled up and secured out of the way to avoid damage.
When securing the sensing tube, make sure contact is made only with the evaporator at the point where
it is attached under the plastic mounting plate and that it does not touch any part of the aluminum or
copper tubing. If necessary, the tube can be protected with small-bore plastic tubing, either by sliding
it on prior to attaching to the evaporator or by slitting it along its length and feeding it over the sensing
tube. Run the cable together with the copper lines to the compressor /condensing unit. Care must be
taken to ensure that the sensing tube does not come into contact with any electrical component either
inside or outside the icebox. There is an insulating cover over the most exposed wire terminal and
connector inside the plastic thermostat housing. An inspection must be made before mounting, to
ensure that the entire terminal and connector is covered and that no metal parts are exposed. Confirm,
before mounting the thermostat, that the capillary tube is not in contact with any wire terminal,
connector, or bare wire. If the sensing tube needs to be bent within the confines of the plastic
thermostat housing, it must be done with great care, heeding the warnings above.
7:3 Operation
The thermostat knob is marked from 0 to 7 with 7 being the coldest setting. From this position the
knob can be rotated counter-clockwise to setting 1, which is the warmest. On initial system start-up, it
is recommended that you set the thermostat to number 4, letting the system run through a few cycles
while monitoring box temperature before any adjustments are made. Once the right setting is found for
your application there should be no need for the thermostat to be adjusted again. If it is not possible to
see the numbers on the dial, it is recommended to reproduce them on the perimeter.
Setting the knob to the 0 position will turn the system off. It is recommended that the system not be
turned off and on from the thermostat. To turn the system off and on, use a panel-mounted breaker or
install a switch in line with the power supply.

Chapter 8
Spillover Kit Installation Instructions
8:1 Mounting
The Frigoboat Spillover Kit (with integral mechanical thermostat) should be installed on the barrier
dividing the freezer and refrigerator sections, on the refrigerator side, and no lower than at mid-height.
Screws may be used after drilling holes in the plastic flange.
A 2.25” diameter hole needs to be cut through the barrier to allow air to flow to the fan; a piece of
PVC pipe can be used to line the hole if desired. This will also make a neat finish while sealing the
hole from the ingress of moisture. The hole may be directly behind the evaporator in the freezer
section, and this will not be detrimental to performance. If a stand-alone Spillover Fan is used (this
requires a Coastal MKII thermostat), the Spillover Fan may be surface-mounted or installed within the
thickness of the barrier.
A return air path must be established at the top of the barrier to allow air back into the freezer. This can
either be in the form of a gap at the top of the barrier (1” should be sufficient) or 3 or more holes of the
same size as the one behind the spillover fan. All other holes, gaps, etc, in the barrier must be
completely sealed, including drains.
8:2 Electrical Connections
The Spillover Kit (with integral mechanical thermostat) must be powered by an independent 12v
supply. This may be from a breaker on the electrical panel or via an in-line 2-amp fuse from the same
supply that is feeding the refrigeration system. Do not power the Spillover Kit from the fan terminals
on the controller. If using the stand-alone Spillover Fan (this requires a Coastal MK II digital
thermostat), refer to wiring diagrams included with these products.
8:3 Operation
The temperature dial of the Spillover Kit must be set to the desired temperature in the refrigerator
compartment. This may take some trial and error before the ideal temperature is achieved. A period of
at least one day is suggested between changes in settings. The temperature dial is in degrees Celsius
and the setting is read against an indent in the plastic housing at the six o-clock position, above the
Frigoboat sticker. A setting of +5 is suggested initially and then adjusted accordingly as desired.

Chapter 9
Quick Connect Refrigerant Fittings
Each component of a Frigoboat system is fitted with one male and one female proprietary Quick
Connect fitting that connects to a corresponding fitting on other components of the system. The Keel
Cooler systems are comprised of three components, and special attention is required to avoid incorrect
connections. The refrigerant tubes are color coded with red, yellow, and blue tape, and matching the
colored tags will ensure correct connections. (The red plastic tubing on the Keel Cooler is to be
considered as a red marker). If a Keel Cooler is to be connected to an air cooled condensing system in
place of a K35 or K50, match the two blue tagged couplings first, then connect the red tagged tube on
the Capri to the yellow tagged tube on the Keel Cooler. Finally, connect the red plastic covered tube
from the Keel Cooler to the red tagged tube on the evaporator. All other air and water-cooled systems
have only two components, each with a male plus a female fitting, and therefore they cannot be
connected incorrectly.
The individual items are pre-charged with the correct amount of refrigerant at the factory. When the
Quick Connect fittings are joined together, they allow the refrigerant to flow through the system
without leaking out into the atmosphere. If needed, they can be uncoupled without loss of refrigerant
in order to re-run refrigerant lines, upgrade components or enable a faulty component to be removed
and replaced. When they are uncoupled, immediately install dust plugs, (removed when originally
installed and kept in a safe place) into the exposed female/male fittings.
Note: Never run compressor unless all components of system are correctly connected together.
9:1 Connecting the Quick Connect fittings
Leave the dust plugs installed until the very last moment when you are ready to connect the system
together. Once the dust caps have been removed, it is imperative that the exposed components and
surfaces be kept free of dust, dirt, construction debris, etc. After you have removed the plugs, keep
them in a safe place in case you need to remove or replace a component later.
Push the male and female fittings together and then carefully rotate the collar on the female fitting
until it starts to thread onto the male thread, making sure that the fitting is not cross-threaded, the male
end does not rotate, and the O-ring remains seated in its groove. Do not use any thread sealant or tape.
Continue rotating the collar of the female end, either by hand or with a 15/16" or adjustable wrench,
while preventing the male end from rotating by restraining it with a 13/16" or adjustable wrench. It is
most important not to let the male end rotate at all during this whole process.
Tighten the collar until it completely covers the threads on the male fitting and then make it “snug”
with wrenches. Excessive tightening is not required, as the O-ring makes the seal and making up the
threads simply opens the internal valves and allows refrigerant to flow. If resistance is felt before the
threads are covered, back off the collar and ensure that the shaft in the female coupling has not been
mis-aligned. If it has, straighten it and re-make the coupling.
If there is a continuous hiss after the connection has been completed, quickly disconnect the fitting and
check that the O-ring has not been damaged or unseated. If it has, carefully re-seat it or replace it with
one of the spares provided that are taped to the compressor, and then re-make the fitting.
NOTE: The spare O-rings provided as a convenience for use if any get damaged during system
installation. They are NOT provided for use as routine replacements, and the original O-rings
should never require replacement if the systems are installed and operated as designed.

Chapter 10
Electrical
General
(a) The use of electrical grease and other anti-corrosion products is strongly discouraged.
(b) Do not attempt to make wiring connections or alterations with power supplied to system.
(c) Always disconnect the power supply by removing the fuse or turning off the breaker before
working on electrical components and/or connections.
10:1 Power supply
The power supply to the electronic controller must be given particular attention to prevent nuisance
problems and compressor non-operation, shutdown, or failure. All electrical connections should be
either soldered or made with good quality crimpers and crimp connectors of the correct size and type.
All switches, breakers, and connections must be in good condition and be designed and constructed for
marine use. It is suggested that during the initial start-up the supply voltage be monitored at the
terminals on the controller before, during, and after the compressor starts, to ensure that the voltage
stays steady and does not fall appreciably. This test should be conducted with as many other DC loads
turned on as is practical.
10:2 Wire size
Never use less than 10-gauge wire. If the sum of positive and negative cable lengths exceeds 30 feet,
consult ABYC tables for appropriate wire size for 3% volt drop.
10:3 Overload protection
Use either a breaker or fast-blow fuse with 15-amp rating for a 12v supply, or 7.5 amp for 24v.
10:4 Connections, Power
Connect the power supply to the controller on the top two terminals using slip-on connectors and wire
size no greater than 10 AWG, observing the correct polarity. If wire of greater than 10 AWG is used
for the power supply, this must terminate remote from the controller and down-size to no greater than
10 AWG for the final connection to the controller. Reversing the polarity at the terminals will prevent
the compressor from running, but should not cause immediate harm to the controller if the correct fuse
or breaker is installed.
10:5 Connections, Mechanical Thermostat
Connect the two slip-on connectors from the thermostat to the “C” and “T” terminals on the Danfoss
(Secop) controller, or the MerlinII mini Smart Speed Controller if installed. Color and polarity are not
important.
On some models, a Speed Board is mounted on the lower terminals of the controller, and the “C” and
“T” terminals are replicated on this board. The speed must be set to a speed specified for the system
and size of evaporator, as outlined below, and the voltage switch set accordingly to ensure the correct
low voltage threshold setting.
NOTE: The Speed Board cannot be used if a MerlinII is installed. If your compressor unit was supplied
with a Speed Board already installed, this must be removed if you are using a MerlinII.
See separate instructions for systems using the Coastal MK3 digital thermostat.

 Paris
These systems have no manual speed selection capability. The thermostat wires must be connected
directly to terminals C and T on the controller.
 W35F and W50F
The thermostat wires must be connected with one wire to the “T” terminal on the Speed Board (or 
MerlinIIif installed), and the other to the vacant terminal of the high temperature cut-out mounted on the
condensing coil. There is a factory installed white wire connecting the “C” terminal to the other
terminal on the high temperature cut-out.
Evaporator type Compressor speed, refer Compressor speed, freezer
80F 2000 -------------
130H / 130F 2500 3000
160H / 160F / 180F-SS 2500 3500
200H / 200B / 200F/ 250B 3000 3500
340B/ 380F-SS 3500 3500
10:6 Connections, Fan
The wires from the fan on air cooled condensing units will be factory installed on the terminals marked
“F” (Black or Blue), and “+” (Red). If the wires are reversed the fan will not run. The K50F and W50F
models have a small oil cooler fan installed. Full instructions are included with the W35F and W50F.
10:7 Connections, Pump
The W35F and W50F model use a 12v pump that must be connected through a relay (PN E251002)
that is activated from the fan terminals on the controller. This relay is supplied with W35F and W50F
compressors.
See separate instructions for wiring multiple W35 or W50 systems to one pump.
It is important to note that the output voltage at the fan terminals will be 12v even if the power supply
to the controller is 24v, so a relay with a 12v coil must always be used.
The W35F and W50F have temperature sensors on the water-cooled heat exchanger that is connected
in series with the thermostat and will stop the system if the cooling water flow is insufficient. Full
wiring instructions are included with the system.

Chapter 11
Troubleshooting Guide
For the interactive online Troubleshooting Guide go to:
http://veco-na.com/images/Frigoboat_BD35_and_BD50_Troubleshooting_Guide.pdf
Note (1) Do not inject anything but unadulterated pure refrigerant R134a into any Frigoboat system.
The addition of even a small amount of leak detecting fluid, leak sealer, extra refrigerant oil,
“conditioner”, flushing fluid, Thawzone, or other substances may cause irreversible damage.
(2) Always disconnect power supply by turning off the breaker or removing the fuse before
working on electrical components or connections.
(3) Never operate a Keel Cooled or pumped-water cooled compressor when the boat is out of the water
without having rigged temporary water cooling or installing an Air Add-On air cooled condenser.
Failure to do so may cause irreversible damage.
(4) Voltage must be checked at the power terminals on the controller, with the supply wires attached.
(5) Always apply a suitable load when testing the output of electronic components such as a Voltage
Divider, as open-terminal conditions will vary greatly from the designed output.
(6) Start-up may occur up to one minute after power is supplied and thermostat is on. This will also occur
after a fault condition has been cleared.
(7) Run all applicable tests before assuming controller or compressor to be faulty. Controller can be
removed by unscrewing the retaining screw or by levering the plastic case over the screw head.
11:1 Compressor not running, no start attempt
Probable cause Action
1 Supply voltage too low Check voltage with a multi-meter at the terminals on the
controller. This must be 11.7v or more for a 12v supply,
(24.2v at 24v) for compressor to start. Inspect power supply,
ground connections and components for integrity. Check wire
sizing. Charge batteries, if necessary.
2 Supply voltage too high If a 12v supply is faulty and delivers over 17v, the
compressor will not run. If it is over 24v, it will assume that
it is a 24v supply and act accordingly.
3 Polarity incorrect Check that the polarity is correct at the controller.
4 Faulty thermostat Remove the thermostat wires and bridge the “C” and “T”
terminals. If the system then runs, make the connection
permanent and control the system manually from the breaker
on your supply panel. Replace thermostat as soon as possible.
5
Thermostat wired incorrectly, or
faulty connections
Refer to the installation instructions to confirm that
connections are as they should be. Ensure that the thermostat
connectors are pushed firmly on to the terminals on the
Controller. Pull wires to confirm integrity.
6
Speed board or MerlinII
incorrectly installed (if fitted)
Check to make sure that the connectors at the rear of the
Speed Board orMerlinII are mated correctly to the C, P, T and
D (or D/I) terminals of the controller.

Probable cause Action
7
Faulty Speed Board or MerlinII (if
fitted)
Remove board and jumper terminals C and T on the
controller. Note: When thermostat wires are connected
directly to C and T on the controller, the compressor will run
only at its slowest speed.
Speed Board must not be installed with Merli
n
II
8 Compressor plug not connected Disconnect the controller by removing the retaining screw.
Then ensure that the 3-pin plug is seated firmly on the pins of
the compressor.
9 Faulty compressor
(Highly unlikely)
Remove the controller as above, unplug from the compressor.
Check that ohm readings are the same across all terminals of
the compressor and there is no continuity to ground. Do not
attempt to connect power directly to compressor.
10 Heat sink overheated Allow components to cool down before attempting re-start.
11 Compressor too cold If compressor is below freezing temperature, allow to warm
up before attempting re-start.
11:2 Compressor attempts to start, or starts then stops soon after
Probable cause Action
1
Faulty or inadequate power
supply (Most likely)
Monitor the supply voltage at the power terminals on the
controller before, during, and after start attempts to ensure
that it does not fall below threshold levels. If it does, check
power supply, ground connections, and components for
integrity. Check for correct wire sizing. Charge batteries, if
necessary.
2
Faulty fan or pump relay or
unauthorized component
installed
Remove connectors from F and + terminals on controller and
attempt re-start. Maximum current draw on these terminals is
limited to 0.7 amps at 12v.
3 Quick Connect fittings not made Check that all refrigerant couplings are properly made.
11:3 System runs, box temperature too high
Probable cause Action
1 Thermostat setting Rotate mechanical thermostat knob clockwise to a higher
number, or adjust set point on Coastal MK3 model.
2 Speed setting Check that the speed setting is the one recommended for the
installed evaporator and for its intended use, i.e. refrigerator
or freezer.
3 Thermostat type If planning to convert an icebox into a freezer, or to a
spillover system, a freezer thermostat (blue housing) must be
used. Bin (B) and Horizontal (H) evaporators must be
controlled by a refrigerator thermostat in normal applications.

4
Evaporator type and size If the evaporator has an even coating of frost, thermostat set
on 7, and system is not cycling, evaporator may be too small.
Either replace evaporator with a larger model, add insulation
to the bottom of the box to reduce volume, or re-locate
evaporator lower in box. The latter may cause the
temperature at top of the box to be above acceptable levels.
5 Excessive frost build-up If an excessive layer of frost is allowed to build up on the
evaporator it will act as an insulator and adversely affect box
temperatures. Defrost system by interrupting power supply at
the breaker panel. Restore power when evaporator is free of
frost. Never use any hard or sharp implement in an attempt to
loosen the frost on the aluminum evaporator. Check that all
drains are blocked and there are no other openings or gaps
that will allow air to enter or leak from the box.
6 Incorrect refrigerant charge If, after the compressor has been running for an appreciable
length of time, the evaporator surface does not have an even
coating of frost or it is only cold and sweating to the touch in
some areas and frosting in others, the system may be low on
refrigerant or overcharged. Call Veco NA for advice or go to
www.veco-na.com "Technical Information".
7 Drain left unplugged If your icebox is equipped with a drain in the bottom of the
box, this must be blocked off to prevent loss of cold air. The
drain should only be used if you revert to melting ice, or after
a major clean-up.
8 Tubing hole left unplugged The hole that was drilled to allow the evaporator’s copper
tubes to pass through the box’s side during installation must
be sealed, as well as all other openings or gaps.
11:4 System runs, box temperature too low
Probable cause Action
1 Thermostat setting Rotate mechanical thermostat knob counter clockwise to a
lower number or adjust-set point on digital thermostat model.
2 Thermostat type Check that you are using a refrigerator thermostat (white
housing) for a refrigerator application and with Bin (B) and
Horizontal (H) type evaporators in normal applications.
3 Faulty thermostat If system is running continuously and box temperatures are
too low with thermostat set on the lowest number, first check
for correct thermostat connections at the controller, then
remove one connection. If compressor stops, turn off breaker,
replace connection, and then control system manually from
the breaker until the thermostat can be replaced.

4
Sensor of Mechanical
Thermostat not in good thermal
contact with evaporator at
designed location.
The free end of the Mechanical Thermostat sensor must be in
good thermal contact with the evaporator at the point where
the black plastic clamp is situated. Not attaching the sensor,
or attaching at somewhere other than the designed location
will result in undesirable box temperatures.
5
Poor spillover system
construction
If you are running the evaporator as a freezer and cooling an
adjoining refrigerator compartment with spillover air, there
must be an adequate thermal barrier between the two. It also
must be completely sealed down the sides and along the
bottom to prevent unwanted air-flow. Temperatures in the
refrigerator side should be controlled either with trial-and-
error convection holes, or a thermostatically controlled fan,
(Spillover Fan/Thermostat Kit, PN E26200). Two apertures
are necessary, one high and one mid-height for adequate air
circulation.
11:5 Excessive frost build-up
Note This is the result of moist air being allowed to enter the box. Problems are compounded when
cold, dense air leaks from the lower area of the box through an open drain or weak door seal
and is replaced by warm, humid air being drawn in elsewhere.
Probable cause Action
1 Drains and holes not plugged Make sure all drains and holes in the floor and walls of the
box are sealed.
2 Circulating fan If a small fan is used to circulate air in the box, make sure
that it is not too powerful, and that cold air is not escaping
from a door/lid seal. This could force cold air out of the
refrigerator box, and the freezer then has to draw air in from
a weak seal to replace it.
3 Poor or damaged door/lid seals Check seals and replace if necessary. A good seal will grip a
$1 bill when inserted between the seal and door/lid when
closed. A front opening door/top opening lid combination
with poor seals is likely to result in excessive frost build-up
on the evaporator and cause extended run times. To
determine leaking seals, apply masking tape to suspect areas
after defrosting, and then check after several days for frost
build-up.

Limited Warranty Policy
Veco NA, LLC (Company) warrants that if any part of a new system that includes the accompanying
product proves to be defective to the original user in material or workmanship within the limits of the
schedule below, the company will, at the company's option, either replace or repair that part without
charge.
Compressor (excluding Controller): ….. 5 years from date of purchase or purchase of a new vessel
Electronic components: ………………. 2 years from date of purchase or purchase of a new vessel
Mechanical components: ……………… 1 year from date of purchase or purchase of a new vessel
Note - Items sold individually, i.e. not as part of a complete system, carry a one year warranty only.
- Items replaced or repaired under warranty are covered only for the remainder of the term of
the original warranty.
This warranty does not cover:
 Any field labor or other costs for inspection, testing, removal, transportation, or installation of any
component unless pre-authorized by the Company and issuance of an RMA number.
 Damage, failure, or malfunction due to, or arising from, improper, faulty, or unapproved
installation, servicing, and/or application, and from failing to strictly follow the guidelines
included with the equipment and in the Installation & Instruction Manual.
 Any component of a system that is not comprised solely of Frigoboat supplied refrigeration parts,
or parts supplied or expressly approved by Coastal Climate Control, Inc.
 Damage, failure, or malfunction resulting from accident, misuse, abuse, neglect, mishandling,
alteration, modification, Acts of God, or service by personnel other than those pre-authorized by
the Company.
 Damage, failure, or malfunction resulting from inadequate or faulty power supply to the system, or
improper, faulty, or unsafe vessel wiring.
 Damage, failure, or malfunction due to foreign substances being injected into the system,
including, but not limited to; additional refrigerant oil, “conditioner”, flushing fluid, Thawzone,
leak stopper and/or leak detecting liquid, etc.
No responsibility is assumed for injury, illness or death due to medical supplies and/or drugs being
subjected to incorrect temperatures while stored in an application cooled by a Frigoboat refrigeration
system.
No responsibility is assumed for any special, incidental, or consequential damages.
Note Some states do not allow the exclusion or limitation of incidental or consequential damages so
the above exclusion or limitation may not apply.
In the event of a component or system failure or malfunction, please contact the dealer you purchased
the system from. If further help is required, please call Veco NA, LLC at 301 352 6962. If requested, return
faulty part, freight pre-paid, together with proof of purchase. No returns will be accepted without prior
authorization and the issuance of an RMA number by Veco NA. Damage due to shipping is not covered in this
warranty and so it is suggested that the shipment be insured by the sender. If the part(s) is found to be defective
due to faulty materials or workmanship, it will be repaired or replaced free of charge and shipped freight pre-
paid to an address within the contiguous USA.
If warranty service is required in areas other than North America and the Caribbean, please visit the
manufacturer’s web site at www.veco.net.