Vectorworks Sail Blade F16 User manual

Page 1
Owner’sManual
Copyright © 2006 - Vectorworks Sail - 805 Marina Road - Titusville, FL 32796 USA - 321-269-8444
Revision Date: 2006-03-17

Page 2
Vectorworks Sail
Statement
Vectorworks Sail
Blade F16
This manual covers the basic assembly of the
above listed models. Before starting assembly,
familiarize your self with the contents of the
containers and the steps in this manual. There
are variations between models and may be some
minor variations based on model year and
options, be sure to follow the appropriate
procedures where applicable.

Page 3
TableofContents
1.0 Contents
2.0 Hull Assembly
3.0 Trampoline Assembly
4.0 Trap Bungee
5.0 Mast Rotation
6.0 Mast Assembly
6.1 Spreaders
6.2 Diamond Wires
6.3 Main Halyard
6.4 Spin Halyard
6.5 Standing Rigging
6.6 Pelican Striker Assembly
7.0 Stepping the Mast
8.0 Rudders
8.1 Surf System
8.2 Rudder Alignment
9.0 Spin Pole
10.0 Jib Sheet System
10.1 Jib Rotation Limiter
10.2 Jib Sheet
11.0 Boom
12.0 Mast Rotation - Mast connection
13.0 Mainsail
13.1 External Downhaul
14.0 Raising the Mainsail
15.0 Lowering the Mainsail
16.0 Mainsheet
17.0 Downhaul
18.0 Outhaul
19.0 Jib
20.0 Spinnaker
20.1 Halyard Run
20.2 Attaching the Spin
21.0 Spin Sheet
22.0 Sailing and Beaching
23.0 Righting After a Capsize
24.0 Trailering and Storage
25.0 Design Category
26.0 Maintenance
27.0 Warranty

Page 4
1.0- Contents
***** Need list of contents and picture of them
***** List of required tools
***** List of required Supplies (silicone…)
Some parts may vary slightly from what is pictured.
The exact contents may differ depending on model and options
Picture of all the parts
with descriptions
Fig 1.A

Page 5
Picture of silicone
placement
Fig 2.B
Picture of mounted cross
bar
Fig 2.C
2.0– Hull Assembly
After unpacking the hulls, verifying the contents and verifying they did not receive any
damage in transport, find a flat soft area to begin the assembly of your boat. Place the
hulls on carpet, foam blocks, or other smooth item where they can be moved without
damaging the surface. First check the width spacing while trying to keep them as close
to the same fore and aft setting as possible. The centerline width of the hulls should be
7’. Check at the bow and stern. Once this is set, measure the diagonals of the hulls to
make sure they are not skewed. This should be within 1/8” of each other. Adjust the
fore and aft position of the hulls as required, and recheck the width measurement to
ensure it has not changed. This may take several iterations. It is very important that
this be done very carefully as severe damage could occur to the beams or hulls if they
are tightened with the hulls out of alignment. (Figure 2.A).
Once the hulls are set, remove the bolts from the cross bars and set on the hulls. Dry
fit the bolts to ensure everything will fit smoothly. The hulls were pre-assembled in the
factory, so if they are aligned properly, the bolts should slide smoothly into the hulls.
After you are confident of the fit, lift the beams and place a bead of silicone around the
bolt holes and another small amount around the perimeter of the beam landings. This
will seal the holes to help prevent minor leaking of the boat. Now install the bolts and
tighten to 18 to 20 ft/lbs with a torque wrench, always making sure the hulls have not
shifted. Note these bolts need to be kept tight. Always check them before sailing the
boat. They will need tightening the first few times the boat is sailed. They should settle
in after a few sails.
Warning: Diagonal measurements need to be within 1/8” of each other or
damage to the beams and/or hulls could occur.
Warnin
g
Picture of Hulls on blocks showing
dimensions
Figure 2.A

Page 6
3.0 – Trampoline Assembly After the cross bars are adequately
tightened, now it is time to string the
trampoline. Find the edge on the tramp with
the larger bolt rope, and slide it into the
groove in the front cross bar with the
zippered pocket facing up. (Figure 3.A)
Now feed the 2 smaller bolt ropes along the
tracks located on the hulls. Note this is a
diagonally cut tramp and you will need to
pull them down the tracks at the same time,
this will either take patience, or an additional
person. Once the tramp bolt ropes are
pulled, slide the 6’ fiberglass rod into the
pocket located on the aft end of the tramp,
and center. (Figure 3.B)
Find the 5/32” x 20’ long line labeled
“Tramp Lacing” and tie one end to either
of the grommets located in the aft
outside corner of the tramp. Pull the line
snug and bring back under the rear cross
bar and wrap over the first of the tramp
lacing buttons located on the aft side of
the cross bar. Bring the line forward and
wrap over the exposed end of the
fiberglass rod, and then back to the first
lacing button again. Pull the line over
the top of the first button and string over
the top of the second. Once over the top
of the second, go back under the cross
bar and wrap around the fiberglass rod at
the first notch, bringing it back to the
second button, over this button then to
the third. (Figure 3.C)
Continue across the entire tramp
finishing the opposite side in a mirror of
the start. Note the tramp will be loose
and will take several tightenings to
become fully taught. Once the back is
laced, remove the 1/8” x 30” lines and tie
the foot straps to the saddles provided
on the rear cross bar.
Fig 3.A
Fig 3.B
Fig 3.C

Page 7
4.0 – Trap Bungee
The forward trap bungee has already
been installed in the forward cross bar.
Remove the bungee from the
packaging and slide the bungee
through the black grommet located on
the hull near the side stay attachment.
Then feed the line through the nearest
tramp grommet, under the tramp and
back up the opposite side. Fix the
ends with the ball stops and hog rings
in identical fashion to the forward set
up. (Figure 4.A)
5.0 – Mast Rotation
Find the 5/32” line labeled “Mast
Rotation”. Feed this line through the
cleat located on the hull just aft of the
front cross bar, and then under the
tramp. Bring the line back up through
the tramp at the grommet located in the center of the tramp just aft of the storage
pocket. Run this line through the turning block provided and back through the center
grommet, under the tramp and back up through the cleat on the opposite hull. Note:
the turning block will be attached to the line run through the mast rotation arm on the
mast after the mast is stepped to control rotation.
6.0 – Mast Assembly
6.1 - Spreaders: Attach the
spreader arms to the fittings
located approximately ½ way up
the mast. Use the barrel nut to
adjust the rake of the spreaders
such that they are equally
positioned and a straight edge
placed between them will
provide a gap of at least 1 ½”
measured between it and the
mast. Adjust the extensions
and rake of the spreaders so
that they measure
approximately 27 ½” tip to tip,
and 1 ½” of rake. Note: these
measurements are made from
the location of the wire, and not
the end of the retention clips on
the spreaders. Make sure both are set at the same angle, as failure to do so may put
a permanent twist in the mast.
Fig 4.A
Fig 6.A

Page 8
6.2 - Diamond wires: To install the
diamond wires, first place a bead of
silicone in the holes located on the
mast sides above the spreaders.
When wet, place the ball-T end of the
diamond wires in the hole, and bring
the threaded end down to the mast
base. Place the threaded end of the
diamond wire through the holes on the
side of the mast base, putting one of
the jam nuts on each side of the base
plate (2 per wire) It is very important
the adjusting end is completely
lubricated with anti-seize, oil or other
suitable lubricant, as stainless will cold
weld itself if the nuts are tightened
under load. Once the threads have
been started, pull the diamond wire onto the spreader bars, as if you were stringing a
crossbow. The wires can then be tightened to the proper setting. A good starting point
will be at least 1 ¼ - 1 ½” of pre-bend as measured with a string line from the mast
base to the sail hook. Note it is best to tighten the wires when they are not under load
to prevent seizing. This may take several iterations to get the proper tension and
ensure that the mast is straight. Once set, tighten the jam nut located on the top of the
mast base, to ensure the wire do not loosen while sailing. These setting are a starting
point, and you will need to adjust them to fit your own sail, weight and sailing
conditions. Always ensure diamond wires have adequate tension. If you notice
you diamond wires loose at any time during sailing, stop and tighten them. Sailing with
loose diamond wires can lead to mast failure or collapse.
6.3 - Main Halyard: Attach the main halyard
line to the main sail hook as shown. Run the
opposite end of the line up the exterior of the
mast and through the pulley located on the top
of the mast and then back down the inside of
the sail track. The end will then exit through
the turning pulley located just above the mast
base.
Fig 6.B
Warning: Always tape spilt rings to prevent them from coming loose during sailing.
Sailing with loose diamond wires can lead to mast failure or collapse.
Warning
Fig 6.C

Page 9
6.4 - Spin Halyard: Run the spin halyard through the pulley tied to the bail
approximately 4’ from the top of the mast. Feed the hoist end down the starboard side
of the mast, through the spreader arms. Keep the spin head end outside of the mast
and clear of the standing rigging.
6.5 - Standing rigging: Find the shrouds and forestay wires and attach to the lower
hole in the mast hound with the 5/16” bow shackle as shown. Note the forestay wire
should be placed in between the 2 shroud wires on the shackle.
Fig 6.D
Fig 6.E

Page 10
Find the trapeze wires and attach
them in the upper hole of the mast
hound with the ¼” bow shackle.
Feed the jib halyard wire through
the pulley located on the pigtail
attached to the forestay wire.
Attach the shroud adjuster on the
hulls using a ¼” clevis pin as
shown.
6.6 - Pelican striker assembly: The bridal
wires should attach to the center of the
pelican striker tube as shown with a ¼” bow
shackle. The opposite ends of the bridal
wires then are fastened to each hull bow
tang. Ensure the jib attachment tang on the
striker tube faces aft.
Fig 6.F
Fi
g
6.G Fig 6.H

Page 11
7.0 Stepping the Mast
Before Raising the Mast:
1. Make sure the boat is on level ground. If the surface is not level, place the
bows so they are facing down hill.
2. If the boat is on the trailer, make sure it is still tied down and that the trailer
tongue is secured so that it will not lift during the procedure.
Place the mast lengthwise on the boat with the base pointing forward and the mast
track down. Attach the side stays to the shroud adjuster plates with the pin located
in the top hole.
Walk the mast aft until the mast base is in
line with the front cross bar. Rotate the
mast 180 degrees and pin the mast base
to the mast pivot located under the mast
cone. Use the split rings with the rigging
pin to keep it from coming loose during
the raising procedure. Note, to ensure
alignment with the base and cone you
need to keep the mast held 180 degrees
off until it is lifted into the vertical position.
Make sure the rigging is clear of the hulls, rudders or any other obstructions, and
that the forestay is not wrapped in the shrouds before you begin to lift the mast.
One person should stand on the tramp at the rear beam. The second person
should walk the mast up to the person standing on the tramp. They should then
raise the mast to their shoulders and walk forward extending their arms pushing the
mast into a vertical position with tension on the shrouds. At this point rotate the
mast 180 degrees back to a normal position and continue to hold the mast forward.
While keeping pressure on the mast hand the forestay to the second person and
have then pin it in the pelican striker assembly.
Tighten the rig by putting weight on the trapeze wires and adjusting the pins in the
shroud adjusters to the appropriate shroud chain plate holes. The mast should be
located somewhere from true vertical to slightly angled aft. This is a tuning
adjustment and will vary with sail cut, personal preference weight and sailing
conditions.
Caution: Always check for overhead wires when raising or lowering the
mast. Contact with electrical power lines can cause serious injury or death.
Caution
Fig 7.A
Caution: Ensure there is adequate tension in your rig before continuing.
Raising sails or sailing with a loose rig can cause the mast to separate from
the mast step and the rig to come down.
Caution

Page 12
8.0 Rudders
8.1 – Surf System: The rudders will already be installed in the heads with ¼” bolts.
Tie the short piece of 4mm line to the horns of the rudders in a loose loop. Run the
¼” bungee cord from this loop through saddle located on the tiller arm and back to
the loop. Tighten until the rudder will stand in the raised position solely from the
tension in the bungee cord.
Feed the longer piece of 4mm line through the small hole located on the leading
edge of the rudder. Bring it through and out the 1” reinforced opening in the rudder
and tie a figure 8 knot, then pulling the line back into the opening snug. This line
will then feed through the turning block mounted in the rudder head.
Install the rudder assembly on the gudgeon pintles so the angle of the rudder arms
aims inboard. Pin the rudders in place with the retaining clip in each of the lower
gudgeons. Note: the rudders will not stay attached to your boat if they are not
properly pinned prior to use.
The 4mm hold down line should be run from the rudder head inside the upper
gudgeon and through the turning block located on the top of the transom. The line
will feed then through a hole located on the aft cross on the hull centerline, and out
the opposite face through another turning block. Loosely run the line inboard along
the rear cross bar and attach in the
pivot cleat mounted approximately 2/3
of the way inboard.
Attach the tiller tie bar to the pins
mounted on each tiller arm. They will
be secured in place by the metal ring
attached to the bungee and rudder
head.
Install the hiking stink on the rear tiller
cross bar with the hardware attached.
8.2 - Rudder Alignment: To lower
the rudders, pull on the 4mm line now
run on the inboard face of the rear cross
bar. With the rudders in the down
position, measure the distance between
the rudders at the forward and then aft
edges at a point approximately 4-6”
bellow the hull bottom. If this number is
not the same, the toe of the rudders may
be adjusted by detaching the tiller cross
bar from the tiller arm on the side fitted
with a threaded end and turning.
Continue to adjust the rudder toe until
you have an equal distance between the rudder edges both fore and aft.
9.0 Spin Pole
Fig 8.A
Fig 8.B

Page 13
Install the aluminum spin pole. The
aft end will slide over a bracket
mounted to the front edge of the
front cross just below the mast step.
Pin the pole with the 2” rigging pin
provided at the front cross bar, and
then slide the saddle, mounted just
aft of the spin hoop on the spin
pole, into the bottom of the pelican
striker tube assembly. This will
then be pinned in place with the 2
stage halyard shackle. Ensure the
halyard shackle faces aft when
complete and has the 30mm blocks
for the jib sheet attached.
Locate the 3mm lines labeled false
bridal. Tie each to the spin pole at the
pelican striker attachment point. Tie
the ends to the bridal tang at each hull.
Tie tightly as this will support the jib
under sail.
Fig 9.A
Fig 9.B

Page 14
Locate the 4mm lines labeled spin
bridal. Tie each of these to the
outboard end of the spin pole and then
back to the holes located at the top of
the bow. Note: a small section of
plastic tubing and 3mm spectra have
been provided to run as a tie loop
through the bow hole if desired. The
bridal should be tied to provide a small
amount of downward pre-bend in the
spin pole. 2-4” should be sufficient.
Too much bend can permanently
deform the pole, while too little will not
provide enough support while the
spinnaker is being flown.
Failure to rig the spin bridal before sailing or before raising the spinnaker will result
in breaking the spin pole.
Warning: Failure to rig the spin bridal before sailing or before raising the
spinnaker will result in breaking the spin pole.
Warnin
g
Fi
g
9.C
Fig 9.D

Page 15
10.0 - Jib Sheet System
Install the 20mm single block on the jib traveler car, mounted to the front cross bar,
with the 1/8” bow shackle.
10.1 - Jib Rotation Limiter
Tie the 3mm jib traveler line to the
center of the jib car. Feed this
line then through the single pivot
block mounted approximately 1
foot forward on the spin pole.
After exiting this block then return
the line through either of the 2
cam cleats mounted on the
forward cross bar between the jib
track pylons. By pulling on this
line and cleating, the jib travel is
restricted. Releasing this line will
allow the jib car to travel further
outboard.
10.2 - Jib Sheet
Run the 3mm spec tine through
the block now mounted on the jib traveler car. Tie a 1/8” bow shackle to the upper
side, which will be used to connect to the jib clew plate. ON the lower side of this
line, tie the 30mm single block.
Feed the 6mm jib sheet line first through
the pivoting cleat mounted on either of the
jib track pylon posts. Run this then
forward through one of the blocks attached
to the pelican striker assembly. Then turn
aft and through the 30 block attached to
the jib clew line, and then back again to
the other forward block on the pelican striker.
Return the final time back through the
opposite pivot cleat mounted on the other
side of the jib track. The loose ends of the jib
sheet can then be tied or run to make
convenient for your sailing style.
Fig 10.A
Fig 10.B
Fig 10.C

Page 16
11.0 - Boom
Attach the end of the boom
gooseneck assembly to the mast
bracket with the 1 ½” rigging pin.
12.0 - Mast Rotation
Connect the single 20mm block,
which is already attached to the
rotation line coming through the
center of the tramp, to the end of
the mast rotation arm with a bow
shackle or short piece of line
depending on the style of arm fitted
on your boat.
With the approximately 2’
long piece of 4mm line tie
the end of the mast rotator
arm to the eyelet mounted
on the lower boom face.
When complete the rotation
arm should be set
approximately parallel to
the tramp as to adequately
clear the storage pocket.
13.0 – Mainsail
Roll out the mains sail on a clean
flat surface. Insert the battens
into the appropriate pockets.
Make sure they are inserted fully,
and lie flat to allow them to go all
the way into the cap sleeves on
the sail luff. Tie each batten in
place. Fold the batten tie line in
half and loop through the
grommet on 1 side of the sail.
Lead both lines then through the
hole in the batten and then
Fig 11.A
Fig 12.A
Fig 13.A

Page 17
through the grommet on the
other side. Tie an overhand
knot while pushing the batten
firmly into the pocket on the sail
with your thumbs. Tension the
battens firmly enough to remove
the wrinkles in the sail. Check
to see that they are evenly
tensioned and no one batten is
bowed more than the others.
13.1 - External Downhaul:
With the external downhaul
system, with a short piece of line
tie the 2 blocks together with the
line through the grommet on the
tack of the main sail.
14.0 Raising the Sail
Make sure the boat is first facing
directly into the wind. Connect the
main sail ring shackle to the head
of the sail, and start feeding the
sail into the mast groove, and
remove the slack from the main
halyard line. Continue to pull on
the halyard line while making sure
the sail is feeding properly into the
sail track while being raised. If the
luff rope in the sail comes out of
the track at the bottom, stop, lower
the sail slightly and continue as
before. When the sail is fully
raised, the ring will catch on the
halyard hook at the top of the
mast. Pull firmly on the foot of the sail several times to ensure that the ring is fully
attached. Coil up the halyard line and tuck into the storage pocket to keep out of
the way.
15.0 Lowering the Mainsail
Make sure the boat is facing into the wind and that the mast rotation controls are
untied or very loose, and that the downhaul is likewise disconnected. To lower main
sail, uncoil the halyard, and pull firmly to raise the sail above the height of the
halyard hook. Turn the mast 90 degrees, release the tension on the line and pull
down on the foot of the sail. Once the sail moves a small ways, it is OK to let the
mast rotate back straight and continue to gently pull the sail the rest of the way
down.
Fig 13.B
Fig 14.A

Page 18
16.0 - Mainsheet
Thread the main sheet line. Either lay them on the ground, or attach them to the
boom as if sailing. Start by feeding the line through the cleat on the lower block and
continue as shown. Once strung, the lower block will attach to the main traveler car
with a ¼” shackle , while the upper block will attach to the loop on the main sail
clew, which will also have the boom threaded through it.
The loose end of the main sheet will serve as the traveler adjustment. Feed the end
back through the cleat on the traveler car and through the sheaves mounted
between the car and the main blocks. This will then be feed through the eyelet and
tie a figure eight knot to secure.
17.0 – Downhaul
External: Rout the 5mm line for
the down haul through the cleat
and up one of the pivot cleats
mounted on the bottom of the
mast. Tie both pieces of 4mm
line to each one of the cascading
blocks, and then feed one of
these block through the 5mm
main line. Continue to feed the
main line back through the cheek
block mounted at the base of the
mast sail track, and back up to
the other block and 4mm line on
the opposite side of the mast.
This will then go back through
the opposite pivot cleat and back
onto the tramp. The 2 loose
ends of the main control line can
be tied together, kept loose, tied
to one of the trap lines or routed
in any of a variety of other
methods that fits your sailing
needs and style.
To connect to the main sail, feed
the 4mm line attached to the
cascading blocks through the
blocks tied to the main sail track.
Make sure that the lines are not crossed and the individual lines go through the sail
block on the side of the mast that the cascading block is on. Pull down on the line
at this point to pre tension the main, and tie to the eyelet mounted near the mast
base. Do this separately on both sides and make sure that the main sail is started
in the lower section of the sail track.
Fig 17.A

Page 19
18.0 Outhaul
Make sure the fabric loop on the
mainsail clew is around the boom. The
upper block of the main sheet system
will attach to the lower side of the loop.
Ensure the outhaul line is uncleated,
and pull the loose line from the
outboard end of the boom firmly. Feed
this line through the eyelet on the
mainsail clew, and then back through
the hole in the end of the boom. Tie an
eight knot in the line, and then adjust
the tension as required in the outhaul
by pulling on the line at the lower face
of the boom.
19.0 Jib
To raise the jib, attach the jib halyard wire to the
head of the jib sail with the shackle. Start the
jib luff zipper over the forestay with the halyard
line included. Raise the sail while closing the
zipper as you go. When the sail is fully raised,
attach the jib sail tack to the pelican striker
assembly with the shackle. Take the end of the
of the halyard and feed through 1 of the cheek
blocks mounted to the base of the striker
assembly, and then back up through the small
becket block located on the opposite side of the
halyard wire. This will then be brought down
through the opposite cheek block, and led back
to either of the cam cleats mounted on the front
cross bar. Gently tension at first and adjust as
required while sailing. Note the forestay. It
should be tight when tension is applied to jib
luff. If it is loose within the jib, the rig will need
to be tightened or you will risk tearing the sail.
On some systems there is only a single cheek block and an additional small section
of line is used to tie off the sail at the bottom of the pelican striker. With this,
remove the longer halyard line for use in derigging, or tie off as appropriate.
Attach the jib clew with the shackle on the end of the control line running through
the jib traveler car. Choose the hole location in the jib clew plate that provides near
equal tension to the sail foot and leech when applying tension to the jib sheets.
20.0 Spinnaker
Fig 18.A
Fig 19.A

Page 20
Mount the spin sheet turning blocks to the front beam, and depending on model,
attach the other blocks to the saddle located on the hulls just forward of the side
stay tang, or shackle directly to the chain plate adjuster
20.1 - Halyard Run: Temporarily tie the free end of the spin halyard line to the top
of the pelican striker assembly. Pull the end running down the starboard face of the
mast and feed it
through the spin
halyard pulley
mounted to the front
of the forward cross
bar. Feed one side
of the back to back
blocks onto the line
at this point and
bring the line into the
spin lock located at
the out side edge of
the forward cross
bar. Run the line to
the rear cross bar
and down through
the tramp going
through the spin
halyard pulley on the
aft cross bar. Bring
the line back under
the boat and going
through the port side
opening between the
dolphin striker and
the forward beam,
feed it into the back
of the spin bag, and
up to the spin hoop.
Temporarily tie this
end of the line to the
spin hoop. Clip off
the ends of the spin
bag to a tie line run
under the tramp and
connected to the foot strap lacing grommets.
20.2 – Attaching the Spin: Untie the free end of the spin halyard and fasten to the
head of the spin.
Fig 20.A