Wasp R500 Pro User manual

Experience the thrill & exhilaration of being behind
the wheel of your own Rally Kart, blasting up the
gruelling track & broad sliding through the twisting
corners pushing you to the limit!
High ground clearance coupled with a low centre of
gravity, makes for exciting off road performance.
Low ground pressure knobbly tyres, reduces damage to the
countryside while putting down the power.
Race proven hydraulic disc braking, for instant stopping
power.
Low noise Honda 4 stroke engines providing the
‘punch’ using as little as 1 litre per hour of unleaded
REDWOOD ENGINEERING (UK) LTD
Wasp R500 Pro-Rally Kart
Owners Manual
Assembly
&
Maintenance Manual
Phone: [phone]
Fax: [phone]
REDWOOD
ENGINEERIN G ( UK) LTD
High Performance Action!
Assembly
&
Maintenance

Condions of Purchase
Wasp R500 Pro-Rally Kart
Assembly & Instruction Manual.
Maintenance Manual.
IMPORTANT NOTICE:
Read through this manual completely
before carrying out any work on the
R500 Pro-Rally kart.
If you are in any doubt about the assembly
instructions for a kit of parts, please contact the company, as
incorrect assembly can result in expensive damage. The company
regrets that it is unable to rectify or replace parts, under these
circumstances without the purchaser bearing the full cost.
The company recommends that the completed kart and its
components are checked by a qualified engineer before use.
Once your kart has been assembled it is recommended that both the
driver and the kart supervisor read through the safety precautions
listed in the manual BEFORE operating the kart.
Redwood Engineering (UK) Ltd
It is a condition of purchase that the following manual has been read & fully understood.
The R500 Pro-Rally Kart is not designed for highway use. Protective clothing & approved safety helmet & eye protection must be worn at all
times. The Kart must never be operated without supervision or in conditions that may cause danger or damage to people or property. Both the
driver & supervisor must have read the owners manual & safety precautions before operating the Kart. It is a condition of purchase, that Redwood
Engineering (UK) Ltd. will not accept any liability for accidents or injuries arising from building, maintaining, racing, driving or use of any of their
karts or kart equipment. All karts & kart components are used at the drivers own risk. Because of the unpredictable nature of off road karting, as
with many other motor sports, all components are highly stressed & could fail without warning. Therefore with the exception to the engine
(Limited & dependant on make) no part of the kart or its parts are guaranteed, whatever the usage. As a result of continual improvement,
Redwood Engineering (UK) Ltd. reserves the right to change prices, product specifications, designs & standard equipment without prior
notice & without incurring obligation.

Wasp R500 Pro-Rally Kart.
 Driver briefing.
 Code of good practice
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
 The driver must be fully instructed & familiarized with the kart & the
terrain, & supervised at all mes by a responsible adult or suitably
trained instructor.
 The terrain must be carefully chosen so as not to cause any possible risk to the
driver or others.
 The wheels of the kart must not leave contact with the ground or the kart be put
in the situaon where there is any possibility of the kart rolling over.
 The top speed of the kart must be governed to the terrain, age & ability of the
driver. This is recommended to be less than 30mph.
 DO NOT OPERATE THE KART WITH LONG HAIR, LOOSE
CLOTHING, SCARVES ETC.
 The driver must t the kart properly, within the protecon of the frame & must be
able to operate the controls fully, without hindrance.
 The driver should be ed properly within the seat harness & the wrist
retainer straps must be used whilst the kart is in operaon.
 It is good pracce whilst operang o road vehicles to have ready access to a suit-
able re exnguisher, rst aid & reliable communicaon
equipment.
 Suitable protecve clothing such as padded overalls, sturdy foot wear, gloves & an
approved helmet with eye protecon must be worn at all mes.
 The kart is not designed to tow or carry passengers.
 Karts must not be run together without factory assembled nerf bars.
Drive with care.
WARNING

Assembly Instructions
Tips & Helpful Notes.
Key to terminology.
E.g : M8 x 55 hex bolt.
M = metric.
8 = 8mm diameter thread / shank.
55 = 55mm the length of the bolt measured from the underside of
the bolt head to the end of the thread.
E.g : M6 washer = Normal flat washer with a 6mm hole in the middle.
Hex bolt = A hexagonal head with a plain shank then thread.
Hex set = A bolt threaded all the way to the head.
Socket cap = Allan key driven bolt.
Cup square = Coach bolt head domed with a square locator
Roof bolt = Shallow domed head with a screwdriver crossed head.
Nylock nut = Standard nut with a plastic insert to hold the nut tight.
Locking nut = Thinner than a standard nut without any plastic insert.
Penny washer = A large diameter washer (aprox. 25mm).
Points to note before assembly:
 Please read carefully the instructions through first before attempting to work on the kart.
 Take each step in the assembly of the kart slowly with precision. Work in a clean, clutter free
environment. Use suitable containers for loose parts such as fixings.
 Do not throw any of the packaging away until your kart has been completely assembled & is
operating correctly.
 For safety reasons, where at all possible, bolts should face downwards. All bolts should be locked
in position with their nylock insert or a thread locking compound such as Locktite should be used.
(Drilling & split pinning may be used if required.)
 Left & right hand of the frame is described as the driver’s left & right as they would be sat in the
kart.
 Each assembly instruction is numbered in step by step order, with the fixings required for each
instruction written in bold for ease of identification & also so that fixings may be readily selected
before assembly begins.
 A standard flat washer is normally placed on a fixing just before the nylock nut, sometimes two
washers can be used together, & on plastic or slotted holes a washer should be used on either side
of the component
 Grease all moving parts on the frame.

STEP FOURSTEP THREE
STEP TWOSTEP ONE
Assembly Instructions
Assembling rolling chassis (Steps 1 to 29)
Stand frame on end (on a kind, level
surface, such as an old carpet) & secure..
Press 4 x 3/4’’ king pin bush into front axle tubes top &
bottom, removing any flashing or paint from tubes.
Grease & mount front stub
axles left & right (steering
arms on top facing
forwards).
3/4” x 5” H.T hex bolt, 3/4”
washer, stub axle,
3/4” washer ,
3/4” nylock nut.
If required a 3/4” washer
may be inserted between the bush & the inner face of the stub
axle. Tighten until solid then back off the nylock to provide
movement.
Assemble the 2 x threaded track rods 4 x
M10 lock nuts & 4 x track rod ends.
Mount rods & rod ends to the
top side of the steering column
actuating arm with the M10 x 55 hex bolt
through the top of the arm in the
following order:
M10 x 55 hex bolt, L.H. rod end, 2 x M10
x 20 heavy washer, R.H track rod, 2 x M10 x 20 heavy wash-
er, steering actuating arm, M10 nylock nut.
Mount the opposite ends of the track rods to the underside of
the stub axle arms using M10 x 40 hex bolt, stub arm, 2 x M10
x 20 heavy washers, rod end & M10 nylock.
Grease & fit steering column with the
solid nylon steering bush.
1 x 3/4” washer & split pin.
Mount the attached steering
column bush in between the two
rear facing brackets on the front
axle beam, with the column
actuating arm facing up.
M8 x 55 soc cap & M8 washer
& M8 nylock nut.
Working at the opposite end of the
steering column, fit the white split
bush over the column shaft & fix to
frame upright.
M8 x 55 soc cap, 2 x M8 washers
& nylock.
To pinch the top of the bush together use,
M8 x 40 hex bolt, 2 x M8 washers & M8 nylock.
Do not over tighten or you may split the bush.
Mount steering wheel.
3 x M6 x 30 soc cap, 4 x M6 washers,
2 x M6 x 25 penny washers,
3 x nylocks.
The two black wrist retainer
straps should be fitted to the top
of the steering wheel using the top
two M6 x 30 fixings & 2 penny
washers.
(The straps are polyester & will
require a mounting hole making
near to either end of the webbing,
any fraying may be sealed with a
little heat.)
STEP FIVE STEP SIX

STEP EIGHTSTEP SEVEN
Assembly Instructions
Assembling rolling chassis (Steps 1 to 26)
Grease & mount front hubs.
Heavy washer, castle nut & lock with a
split pin.
Press on dust cap. Mount 16”
front wheels. (Valves facing
out). 8x conical wheel nuts.
Adjust tracking to toe out. Measuring from rim to rim 8 to
10mm wider at the front.
Grease & mount both pedals in the
forward position. 2 x M12 nylock .
(Be sure that the full movement is
free on both pedals, remove any
paint).
Fit the return spring from the pedal
loop, to the loop on the chassis rear
of the pedal.
Move the frame to its normal driving position with the rear of
kart supported off the ground.
Mount the brake disc on to the
machined register on the disc carrier.
(Clamping hub / spider ).
6 x M6 x 30 soc cap, 6 x M6 washers,
6 x M6 nylocks. (Nuts on the carrier side).
Leave fixings finger tight.
Mount the large sprocket on to its
machines register on the sprocket
carrier. 6 x M5 x 20 slotted, countersunk
head, 6 x M5 washers & 6 x M5 nylocks.
Keep the screw heads on the carrier side,
nuts & washers on the sprocket side.
N.B. The sprocket must sit true on the machined register
(Location shoulder). Leave fixings finger tight.
STEP NINE (a)
Assemble rear axle as follows:
1. Slide down lst wheel hub, studs first.
2. 1st axle bearing with plates on (loosen grub screw),
protruding grub screw boss first.
3. Sprocket assembly (sprocket side first).
4. Disc assembly, (carrier side first).
5. 2nd Axle bearing (bearing face first, opposite to the
previous bearing).
6. 2nd wheel hub (studs opposite to 1st wheel hub).
STEP NINE (b)
Rear Axle.
Remove flashes & burrs from rear axle using a light file
or emery paper. To lubricate & act as a rust inhibitor,
grease the axle with water repellent grease.
(Warning! the key ways can be sharp)
STEP TEN
(HUB MOUNTED WHEELS)
Mount axle to frame, with the sprocket on the L.H.S of the engine
support rails, & the disc on the R.H.S.
(adjacent to the brake calliper mounting bracket).
The bearing plates should be mounted on the outside of the frame.
4x M8 x 25 cup square, 4x M8 washers, 4x M8 nylocks.
Cut the length of 6mm axle key into four equal lengths
(4x 1l/2 ” lengths).
STEP TEN (a)

STEP TWELVE
STEP FIFTEEN
STEP FOURTEEN
STEP ELEVEN
Assembly Instructions
Assembling rolling chassis (Steps 1 to 15)
STEP THIRTEEN
Tap the key into the wheel hubs, centralize axle, & tighten
the hub clamping soc cap.
(N.B. The key should not be too tight that it is unable to be
tapped into position & also should not be too loose that it is
a sloppy fit. If the key is too tight it may be lightly dressed
with a file, if it is too loose it can be centre punched from the
top & if necessary dressed back with a file to produce a tap
fit.).
On either end of the axle place the external contracting
30mm circlips in the grooves provided.
When you are happy that the axle is centralized, small
indents aprox 2mm to 3mm should be drilled in the axle
through the bearing grub screw holes & the grub screws
refitted
N.B. Take care not to damage the threads when drilling or lose
the grub screws. (Remove any swarf). These, once fitted, will
prevent the axle moving sideways under heavy side loads. If a
small recess is not made & the screws are fitted, the surface of
the axle will be damaged making it difficult to remove the
bearings.
Mount the rear wheels to the hubs with the tapered end of the
nuts against the wheel & the valves facing outwards.
Insert the 6mm key into the
sprocket carrier, adjusting the
fit as before. It is good practice
to clamp to the axle firmly
first then tighten , the six
sprocket fixings.
The whole assembly may now be un-clamped, the alignment
adjusted , the key checked & then re-clamped.
Insert the 6mm key into the brake
carrier, adjusting the fit as before,
& clamp the disc centrally. It is
good practice to clamp the carrier
to the axle firmly first, then tight-
en the six disc fixings.
The whole disc assembly may now be un-clamped, the
alignment adjusted, the key checked & then re-clamped.
Mount the brake calliper over the disc,
2x M8 x 20 soc cap & 2x M8 washers.
Run hydraulic tube around the recoil
side of the engine, secure the tube away
from the engine with tie wraps.
Mount the master cylinder to the
inboard side of the bracket behind the
seat. The hydraulic tube underneath
facing the rear, actuating arm pointing
up to the rear. 2x M8 x 20 soc caps.
2 x M8 washers.
Fit the brake rod with 1 x M6 lock nut either end followed by
clevis, pins & clips. Secure assembly to the pedal & brake
cylinder arm.
Please refer now to the following mechanical brake fitting
instructions.

Fit the brake rod with
1x M6 lock nut either
end followed by clevis,
pins and clips.
Secure this assembly to
the pedal and brake
cylinder arm.
WARNING During the first hours of operation, the brake
will not operate at its fullest potential as the pads bed in.
STEP THREE
STEP TWOSTEP ONE.
Brake Assembly Instructions
Steps 1 to 4
This class 1 hydraulic operated brake unit is designed to give both reliable & consistent performance.
These instructions are to ensure that it is maintained at its most efficient & safe operation for its normal
life. Both the caliper and master cylinder pistons are fitted with twin seals which will give you the security
that a single brake system must provide.
Fitting Instructions Read carefully before attempting to fit the brake making sure you have all the
components to hand.
For maintenance of your brake please refer to the maintenance manual.
The disc must be fitted to the axle & the disc carrier pinch
screw not tightened. This is so that the disc assembly can
be easily moved into its approximate position.
The calliper assembly is
placed over the disc &
positioned so that the
8mm fixing holes in the
calliper align with the
kart fixing holes on the
brake mounting bracket.
Ensure there are sufficient spacers fitted between the
calliper casting & the kart bracket. (This ensures free
movement of the brake operating arm on that side & that
the M6 screw & locknut do not foul the kart bracket)
Spacers are not normally required on Wasp ‘F’ series karts.
Fit the M8 x 20 soc cap screws & 2x washers & lightly tighten,
ensuring the disc is roughly centred between the pads. At this
stage determine if the pads are parallel & square to the disc. (A
small degree of non-alignment is permissible, aprox 1mm over
the pad length, any further out of parallel must be corrected by
the use of shims under the calliper mounting face.)
The gap between the pad faces & disc is,
to a degree, a matter of personal
preference, but it must not exceed 2mm.
Adjustment of this gap is achieved by
loosening the two M10 nylock nuts &
screwing the aluminium adjuster pillars in
or out to achieve the desired gap.
Following this adjustment, re-tighten the M10 nuts & finally
tighten the calliper to the kart bracket.
(Locktite on the calliper bracket to calliper M8 x 20 fixing
screws is recommended).
STEP FOUR
Check the disc alignment , centre if
required, & tighten the disc carrier
pinch screw.
Mount the master cylinder to
the inboard side of the bracket
behind the seat. The hydraulic
tube underneath facing thr
rear, actuating arm pointing up
to the rear. 2x M8 x 20 soc
caps. 2x M8 washers.
Run the hydraulic tube around the recoil side of the engine,
secure the tube away from the engine with tie wraps.
Always ensure the hydraulic pipe is run on the top of the
frame tubes and secured using cable ties.

Fitting the engine & Transmission
Torque-converter.
The following instructions are for fitting a torque-converter.
Points to note
Alignment: it is very important to have sprockets, pulleys & shafts in their correct
alignment. If they are not lined up accurately excessive wear will occur. If they are badly
out of line, the chain or belt will de-rail. The key to alignment is to use a known straight
edge such as a steel ruler or similar. This must run flat across one working face to the oth-
er working face as a chain or belt would.
When aligning sprockets use the large rear axle sprocket as the datum. Hold the straight
edge flat on the sprocket (be sure the sprocket is tightened to its carrier) & correct the
engine & clutch or idle sprocket into parallel. The final lining up is done by sliding the
rear axle sprocket left or right so both the clutch sprocket & the rear axle sprocket both
run in line.
Alignment for a torque converter:
The torque converter has a pulley on the engine
& a pulley on the idle shaft. These pulleys are
asymmetrical & have an almost flat pulley
working face on the side nearest the engine.
This can be lined up in the same way as
sprockets, checking for parallel & that they are
in line. The straight edge will form a small
angle with the pulley. This must be equal on
both sides of the pulley face to be in parallel.
Chain tensioning: In general never run a drum tight chain as this will
prematurely wear out the bearings & chain.
When the engine or idle shaft is finally tightened down re-check the tension & alignment.
The chains should be lubricated with the correct chain spray lubricant. When fitting the
chain with the connector split link clip, fit the closed end of the clip following the
direction of the chain rotation. (This helps to prevent the chain clip being accidentally
snagged off.)
Chain tensioning for a torque converter:
The chain is tensioned by sliding the engine & idle shaft forwards as one unit.
N.B. The torque converter pulley centre distance is set for correct operation & must not be
altered.

Fitting the engine & Transmission
Torque Converter.
Step One
Fit the pre-drilled eng /
transmission plate to the
chassis slide rails.
Mount the engine on top
of the plate using the pre-set holes.
Using 4x M8 x 65 hex ( up from the underside of the frame)
2x 3/8” washers per bolt (against the underside of the rails),
4x M8 washers on the top of the engine foot followed by
4x M8 nylocks. (Tighten the nylocks then back them off
enough to allow the engine to move forward to tension the
chain).
Step Two
Assemble the idle shaft
from the left hand side :
1. Collar (grub screws removed & kept safe).
2. 12 tooth sprocket with 3/16” key cut to size (14mm).
3. Collar.
4. Collar.
5. Driven pulley (With the spring boss facing left & 3/16” x
21/4” long key inserted) & collar.
All the keys must be a good tap fit.
Step Three
Mount the two box section
risers to the plate forward of
the engine (Leave a small gap
for the left hand inspection
side cover to slide between the
frame & the riser).
Using 4x M8 x 140 bolts, 3/8” penny washers (2 together
on the underside of the slide rail)
4x M8 nylocks, loosely bolt the idle shaft
bearings on top, with the bearing grub
screw bosses facing inwards. (Remove
bearing grub screws & keep in a safe
container for later use). As the risers are
mounted to the chassis sliders, the idle
shaft assembly can be introduced into the
bearings.
Step Four
When aligned the idle shaft bearing
bosses need to be secured to the idle
shaft.
This is done by using a drill bit just
smaller than the grub screw hole in the
bearing & drilling through the hole into the shaft by 1-2mm.
(Be sure the shaft is centralized in the bearings, & make sure the
risers are fully tightened before drilling).
The grub screws are then refitted to the bearings (remove any
swarf first) & through into the shaft preventing any sideways
movement.
Step Five
Assemble to the very lightly greased
engine output shaft, the driver flat
pulley half tight up to the shaft
shoulder. (Driver fixed sheave #12).
Then tighten the engine down.
Tighten down the two idle shaft bearings & risers checking
alignment. Move the R.H.S collar up to the flat side of the
driven pulley (Driven fixed face #1) & using a straight edge
align the flat working faces of the
two pulleys up.
(This is important to enable the
belt run in line, otherwise rapid
belt wear & dragging will occur).
Step Six
With the R.H.S shaft collar tight up against the pulley, hold the
collar in position & push away the pulley.
Making sure the collar does not move drill through the grub screw
hole into the shaft 1-2mm.
N.B Do not drill into the key way slot or near it).
Fit the grub screw,
(remove any swarf from the
hole first) & check the pulley
alignment.