Wasp R500 Pro User manual

Experience the thrill & exhilaration of being behind
the wheel of your own Rally Kart, blasting up the
gruelling track & broad sliding through the twisting
corners pushing you to the limit!
High ground clearance coupled with a low centre of
gravity, makes for exciting off road performance.
Low ground pressure knobbly tyres, reduces damage to the
countryside while putting down the power.
Race proven hydraulic disc braking, for instant stopping
power.
Low noise Honda 4 stroke engines providing the
‘punch’ using as little as 1 litre per hour of unleaded
REDWOOD ENGINEERING (UK) LTD
Wasp R500 Pro-Rally Kart
Owners Manual
Assembly
&
Maintenance Manual
Phone: [phone]
Fax: [phone]
REDWOOD
ENGINEERIN G ( UK) LTD
High Performance Action!
Assembly
&
Maintenance

Condions of Purchase
Wasp R500 Pro-Rally Kart
Assembly & Instruction Manual.
Maintenance Manual.
IMPORTANT NOTICE:
Read through this manual completely
before carrying out any work on the
R500 Pro-Rally kart.
If you are in any doubt about the assembly
instructions for a kit of parts, please contact the company, as
incorrect assembly can result in expensive damage. The company
regrets that it is unable to rectify or replace parts, under these
circumstances without the purchaser bearing the full cost.
The company recommends that the completed kart and its
components are checked by a qualified engineer before use.
Once your kart has been assembled it is recommended that both the
driver and the kart supervisor read through the safety precautions
listed in the manual BEFORE operating the kart.
Redwood Engineering (UK) Ltd
It is a condition of purchase that the following manual has been read & fully understood.
The R500 Pro-Rally Kart is not designed for highway use. Protective clothing & approved safety helmet & eye protection must be worn at all
times. The Kart must never be operated without supervision or in conditions that may cause danger or damage to people or property. Both the
driver & supervisor must have read the owners manual & safety precautions before operating the Kart. It is a condition of purchase, that Redwood
Engineering (UK) Ltd. will not accept any liability for accidents or injuries arising from building, maintaining, racing, driving or use of any of their
karts or kart equipment. All karts & kart components are used at the drivers own risk. Because of the unpredictable nature of off road karting, as
with many other motor sports, all components are highly stressed & could fail without warning. Therefore with the exception to the engine
(Limited & dependant on make) no part of the kart or its parts are guaranteed, whatever the usage. As a result of continual improvement,
Redwood Engineering (UK) Ltd. reserves the right to change prices, product specifications, designs & standard equipment without prior
notice & without incurring obligation.

Wasp R500 Pro-Rally Kart.
 Driver briefing.
 Code of good practice
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
 The driver must be fully instructed & familiarized with the kart & the
terrain, & supervised at all mes by a responsible adult or suitably
trained instructor.
 The terrain must be carefully chosen so as not to cause any possible risk to the
driver or others.
 The wheels of the kart must not leave contact with the ground or the kart be put
in the situaon where there is any possibility of the kart rolling over.
 The top speed of the kart must be governed to the terrain, age & ability of the
driver. This is recommended to be less than 30mph.
 DO NOT OPERATE THE KART WITH LONG HAIR, LOOSE
CLOTHING, SCARVES ETC.
 The driver must t the kart properly, within the protecon of the frame & must be
able to operate the controls fully, without hindrance.
 The driver should be ed properly within the seat harness & the wrist
retainer straps must be used whilst the kart is in operaon.
 It is good pracce whilst operang o road vehicles to have ready access to a suit-
able re exnguisher, rst aid & reliable communicaon
equipment.
 Suitable protecve clothing such as padded overalls, sturdy foot wear, gloves & an
approved helmet with eye protecon must be worn at all mes.
 The kart is not designed to tow or carry passengers.
 Karts must not be run together without factory assembled nerf bars.
Drive with care.
WARNING

Assembly Instructions
Tips & Helpful Notes.
Key to terminology.
E.g : M8 x 55 hex bolt.
M = metric.
8 = 8mm diameter thread / shank.
55 = 55mm the length of the bolt measured from the underside of
the bolt head to the end of the thread.
E.g : M6 washer = Normal flat washer with a 6mm hole in the middle.
Hex bolt = A hexagonal head with a plain shank then thread.
Hex set = A bolt threaded all the way to the head.
Socket cap = Allan key driven bolt.
Cup square = Coach bolt head domed with a square locator
Roof bolt = Shallow domed head with a screwdriver crossed head.
Nylock nut = Standard nut with a plastic insert to hold the nut tight.
Locking nut = Thinner than a standard nut without any plastic insert.
Penny washer = A large diameter washer (aprox. 25mm).
Points to note before assembly:
 Please read carefully the instructions through first before attempting to work on the kart.
 Take each step in the assembly of the kart slowly with precision. Work in a clean, clutter free
environment. Use suitable containers for loose parts such as fixings.
 Do not throw any of the packaging away until your kart has been completely assembled & is
operating correctly.
 For safety reasons, where at all possible, bolts should face downwards. All bolts should be locked
in position with their nylock insert or a thread locking compound such as Locktite should be used.
(Drilling & split pinning may be used if required.)
 Left & right hand of the frame is described as the driver’s left & right as they would be sat in the
kart.
 Each assembly instruction is numbered in step by step order, with the fixings required for each
instruction written in bold for ease of identification & also so that fixings may be readily selected
before assembly begins.
 A standard flat washer is normally placed on a fixing just before the nylock nut, sometimes two
washers can be used together, & on plastic or slotted holes a washer should be used on either side
of the component
 Grease all moving parts on the frame.

STEP FOURSTEP THREE
STEP TWOSTEP ONE
Assembly Instructions
Assembling rolling chassis (Steps 1 to 29)
Stand frame on end (on a kind, level
surface, such as an old carpet) & secure..
Press 4 x 3/4’’ king pin bush into front axle tubes top &
bottom, removing any flashing or paint from tubes.
Grease & mount front stub
axles left & right (steering
arms on top facing
forwards).
3/4” x 5” H.T hex bolt, 3/4”
washer, stub axle,
3/4” washer ,
3/4” nylock nut.
If required a 3/4” washer
may be inserted between the bush & the inner face of the stub
axle. Tighten until solid then back off the nylock to provide
movement.
Assemble the 2 x threaded track rods 4 x
M10 lock nuts & 4 x track rod ends.
Mount rods & rod ends to the
top side of the steering column
actuating arm with the M10 x 55 hex bolt
through the top of the arm in the
following order:
M10 x 55 hex bolt, L.H. rod end, 2 x M10
x 20 heavy washer, R.H track rod, 2 x M10 x 20 heavy wash-
er, steering actuating arm, M10 nylock nut.
Mount the opposite ends of the track rods to the underside of
the stub axle arms using M10 x 40 hex bolt, stub arm, 2 x M10
x 20 heavy washers, rod end & M10 nylock.
Grease & fit steering column with the
solid nylon steering bush.
1 x 3/4” washer & split pin.
Mount the attached steering
column bush in between the two
rear facing brackets on the front
axle beam, with the column
actuating arm facing up.
M8 x 55 soc cap & M8 washer
& M8 nylock nut.
Working at the opposite end of the
steering column, fit the white split
bush over the column shaft & fix to
frame upright.
M8 x 55 soc cap, 2 x M8 washers
& nylock.
To pinch the top of the bush together use,
M8 x 40 hex bolt, 2 x M8 washers & M8 nylock.
Do not over tighten or you may split the bush.
Mount steering wheel.
3 x M6 x 30 soc cap, 4 x M6 washers,
2 x M6 x 25 penny washers,
3 x nylocks.
The two black wrist retainer
straps should be fitted to the top
of the steering wheel using the top
two M6 x 30 fixings & 2 penny
washers.
(The straps are polyester & will
require a mounting hole making
near to either end of the webbing,
any fraying may be sealed with a
little heat.)
STEP FIVE STEP SIX

STEP EIGHTSTEP SEVEN
Assembly Instructions
Assembling rolling chassis (Steps 1 to 26)
Grease & mount front hubs.
Heavy washer, castle nut & lock with a
split pin.
Press on dust cap. Mount 16”
front wheels. (Valves facing
out). 8x conical wheel nuts.
Adjust tracking to toe out. Measuring from rim to rim 8 to
10mm wider at the front.
Grease & mount both pedals in the
forward position. 2 x M12 nylock .
(Be sure that the full movement is
free on both pedals, remove any
paint).
Fit the return spring from the pedal
loop, to the loop on the chassis rear
of the pedal.
Move the frame to its normal driving position with the rear of
kart supported off the ground.
Mount the brake disc on to the
machined register on the disc carrier.
(Clamping hub / spider ).
6 x M6 x 30 soc cap, 6 x M6 washers,
6 x M6 nylocks. (Nuts on the carrier side).
Leave fixings finger tight.
Mount the large sprocket on to its
machines register on the sprocket
carrier. 6 x M5 x 20 slotted, countersunk
head, 6 x M5 washers & 6 x M5 nylocks.
Keep the screw heads on the carrier side,
nuts & washers on the sprocket side.
N.B. The sprocket must sit true on the machined register
(Location shoulder). Leave fixings finger tight.
STEP NINE (a)
Assemble rear axle as follows:
1. Slide down lst wheel hub, studs first.
2. 1st axle bearing with plates on (loosen grub screw),
protruding grub screw boss first.
3. Sprocket assembly (sprocket side first).
4. Disc assembly, (carrier side first).
5. 2nd Axle bearing (bearing face first, opposite to the
previous bearing).
6. 2nd wheel hub (studs opposite to 1st wheel hub).
STEP NINE (b)
Rear Axle.
Remove flashes & burrs from rear axle using a light file
or emery paper. To lubricate & act as a rust inhibitor,
grease the axle with water repellent grease.
(Warning! the key ways can be sharp)
STEP TEN
(HUB MOUNTED WHEELS)
Mount axle to frame, with the sprocket on the L.H.S of the engine
support rails, & the disc on the R.H.S.
(adjacent to the brake calliper mounting bracket).
The bearing plates should be mounted on the outside of the frame.
4x M8 x 25 cup square, 4x M8 washers, 4x M8 nylocks.
Cut the length of 6mm axle key into four equal lengths
(4x 1l/2 ” lengths).
STEP TEN (a)

STEP TWELVE
STEP FIFTEEN
STEP FOURTEEN
STEP ELEVEN
Assembly Instructions
Assembling rolling chassis (Steps 1 to 15)
STEP THIRTEEN
Tap the key into the wheel hubs, centralize axle, & tighten
the hub clamping soc cap.
(N.B. The key should not be too tight that it is unable to be
tapped into position & also should not be too loose that it is
a sloppy fit. If the key is too tight it may be lightly dressed
with a file, if it is too loose it can be centre punched from the
top & if necessary dressed back with a file to produce a tap
fit.).
On either end of the axle place the external contracting
30mm circlips in the grooves provided.
When you are happy that the axle is centralized, small
indents aprox 2mm to 3mm should be drilled in the axle
through the bearing grub screw holes & the grub screws
refitted
N.B. Take care not to damage the threads when drilling or lose
the grub screws. (Remove any swarf). These, once fitted, will
prevent the axle moving sideways under heavy side loads. If a
small recess is not made & the screws are fitted, the surface of
the axle will be damaged making it difficult to remove the
bearings.
Mount the rear wheels to the hubs with the tapered end of the
nuts against the wheel & the valves facing outwards.
Insert the 6mm key into the
sprocket carrier, adjusting the
fit as before. It is good practice
to clamp to the axle firmly
first then tighten , the six
sprocket fixings.
The whole assembly may now be un-clamped, the alignment
adjusted , the key checked & then re-clamped.
Insert the 6mm key into the brake
carrier, adjusting the fit as before,
& clamp the disc centrally. It is
good practice to clamp the carrier
to the axle firmly first, then tight-
en the six disc fixings.
The whole disc assembly may now be un-clamped, the
alignment adjusted, the key checked & then re-clamped.
Mount the brake calliper over the disc,
2x M8 x 20 soc cap & 2x M8 washers.
Run hydraulic tube around the recoil
side of the engine, secure the tube away
from the engine with tie wraps.
Mount the master cylinder to the
inboard side of the bracket behind the
seat. The hydraulic tube underneath
facing the rear, actuating arm pointing
up to the rear. 2x M8 x 20 soc caps.
2 x M8 washers.
Fit the brake rod with 1 x M6 lock nut either end followed by
clevis, pins & clips. Secure assembly to the pedal & brake
cylinder arm.
Please refer now to the following mechanical brake fitting
instructions.

Fit the brake rod with
1x M6 lock nut either
end followed by clevis,
pins and clips.
Secure this assembly to
the pedal and brake
cylinder arm.
WARNING During the first hours of operation, the brake
will not operate at its fullest potential as the pads bed in.
STEP THREE
STEP TWOSTEP ONE.
Brake Assembly Instructions
Steps 1 to 4
This class 1 hydraulic operated brake unit is designed to give both reliable & consistent performance.
These instructions are to ensure that it is maintained at its most efficient & safe operation for its normal
life. Both the caliper and master cylinder pistons are fitted with twin seals which will give you the security
that a single brake system must provide.
Fitting Instructions Read carefully before attempting to fit the brake making sure you have all the
components to hand.
For maintenance of your brake please refer to the maintenance manual.
The disc must be fitted to the axle & the disc carrier pinch
screw not tightened. This is so that the disc assembly can
be easily moved into its approximate position.
The calliper assembly is
placed over the disc &
positioned so that the
8mm fixing holes in the
calliper align with the
kart fixing holes on the
brake mounting bracket.
Ensure there are sufficient spacers fitted between the
calliper casting & the kart bracket. (This ensures free
movement of the brake operating arm on that side & that
the M6 screw & locknut do not foul the kart bracket)
Spacers are not normally required on Wasp ‘F’ series karts.
Fit the M8 x 20 soc cap screws & 2x washers & lightly tighten,
ensuring the disc is roughly centred between the pads. At this
stage determine if the pads are parallel & square to the disc. (A
small degree of non-alignment is permissible, aprox 1mm over
the pad length, any further out of parallel must be corrected by
the use of shims under the calliper mounting face.)
The gap between the pad faces & disc is,
to a degree, a matter of personal
preference, but it must not exceed 2mm.
Adjustment of this gap is achieved by
loosening the two M10 nylock nuts &
screwing the aluminium adjuster pillars in
or out to achieve the desired gap.
Following this adjustment, re-tighten the M10 nuts & finally
tighten the calliper to the kart bracket.
(Locktite on the calliper bracket to calliper M8 x 20 fixing
screws is recommended).
STEP FOUR
Check the disc alignment , centre if
required, & tighten the disc carrier
pinch screw.
Mount the master cylinder to
the inboard side of the bracket
behind the seat. The hydraulic
tube underneath facing thr
rear, actuating arm pointing up
to the rear. 2x M8 x 20 soc
caps. 2x M8 washers.
Run the hydraulic tube around the recoil side of the engine,
secure the tube away from the engine with tie wraps.
Always ensure the hydraulic pipe is run on the top of the
frame tubes and secured using cable ties.

Fitting the engine & Transmission
Torque-converter.
The following instructions are for fitting a torque-converter.
Points to note
Alignment: it is very important to have sprockets, pulleys & shafts in their correct
alignment. If they are not lined up accurately excessive wear will occur. If they are badly
out of line, the chain or belt will de-rail. The key to alignment is to use a known straight
edge such as a steel ruler or similar. This must run flat across one working face to the oth-
er working face as a chain or belt would.
When aligning sprockets use the large rear axle sprocket as the datum. Hold the straight
edge flat on the sprocket (be sure the sprocket is tightened to its carrier) & correct the
engine & clutch or idle sprocket into parallel. The final lining up is done by sliding the
rear axle sprocket left or right so both the clutch sprocket & the rear axle sprocket both
run in line.
Alignment for a torque converter:
The torque converter has a pulley on the engine
& a pulley on the idle shaft. These pulleys are
asymmetrical & have an almost flat pulley
working face on the side nearest the engine.
This can be lined up in the same way as
sprockets, checking for parallel & that they are
in line. The straight edge will form a small
angle with the pulley. This must be equal on
both sides of the pulley face to be in parallel.
Chain tensioning: In general never run a drum tight chain as this will
prematurely wear out the bearings & chain.
When the engine or idle shaft is finally tightened down re-check the tension & alignment.
The chains should be lubricated with the correct chain spray lubricant. When fitting the
chain with the connector split link clip, fit the closed end of the clip following the
direction of the chain rotation. (This helps to prevent the chain clip being accidentally
snagged off.)
Chain tensioning for a torque converter:
The chain is tensioned by sliding the engine & idle shaft forwards as one unit.
N.B. The torque converter pulley centre distance is set for correct operation & must not be
altered.

Fitting the engine & Transmission
Torque Converter.
Step One
Fit the pre-drilled eng /
transmission plate to the
chassis slide rails.
Mount the engine on top
of the plate using the pre-set holes.
Using 4x M8 x 65 hex ( up from the underside of the frame)
2x 3/8” washers per bolt (against the underside of the rails),
4x M8 washers on the top of the engine foot followed by
4x M8 nylocks. (Tighten the nylocks then back them off
enough to allow the engine to move forward to tension the
chain).
Step Two
Assemble the idle shaft
from the left hand side :
1. Collar (grub screws removed & kept safe).
2. 12 tooth sprocket with 3/16” key cut to size (14mm).
3. Collar.
4. Collar.
5. Driven pulley (With the spring boss facing left & 3/16” x
21/4” long key inserted) & collar.
All the keys must be a good tap fit.
Step Three
Mount the two box section
risers to the plate forward of
the engine (Leave a small gap
for the left hand inspection
side cover to slide between the
frame & the riser).
Using 4x M8 x 140 bolts, 3/8” penny washers (2 together
on the underside of the slide rail)
4x M8 nylocks, loosely bolt the idle shaft
bearings on top, with the bearing grub
screw bosses facing inwards. (Remove
bearing grub screws & keep in a safe
container for later use). As the risers are
mounted to the chassis sliders, the idle
shaft assembly can be introduced into the
bearings.
Step Four
When aligned the idle shaft bearing
bosses need to be secured to the idle
shaft.
This is done by using a drill bit just
smaller than the grub screw hole in the
bearing & drilling through the hole into the shaft by 1-2mm.
(Be sure the shaft is centralized in the bearings, & make sure the
risers are fully tightened before drilling).
The grub screws are then refitted to the bearings (remove any
swarf first) & through into the shaft preventing any sideways
movement.
Step Five
Assemble to the very lightly greased
engine output shaft, the driver flat
pulley half tight up to the shaft
shoulder. (Driver fixed sheave #12).
Then tighten the engine down.
Tighten down the two idle shaft bearings & risers checking
alignment. Move the R.H.S collar up to the flat side of the
driven pulley (Driven fixed face #1) & using a straight edge
align the flat working faces of the
two pulleys up.
(This is important to enable the
belt run in line, otherwise rapid
belt wear & dragging will occur).
Step Six
With the R.H.S shaft collar tight up against the pulley, hold the
collar in position & push away the pulley.
Making sure the collar does not move drill through the grub screw
hole into the shaft 1-2mm.
N.B Do not drill into the key way slot or near it).
Fit the grub screw,
(remove any swarf from the
hole first) & check the pulley
alignment.

Fitting the engine & Transmission
Torque Converter.
Step Eight
Undo the idle shaft. Place onto the pulley the drive belt, (N.B
The belt is asymmetrical as are the pulleys. Be sure that the
flat side of the belt is to the flat side of the pulley ie the engine
side).
Tighten the bearing risers.
Fit the bronze bush (Driver bush #10)
to the driver engine pulley. The belt
can now sit on the bush over the engine
shaft.
Step Nine
You are now ready to assemble the driver pulley.
Fit the black keyed hub driv-
er (Driver hub #4) to the en-
gine shaft with the drive flats
facing out.
Slide on the ‘v’ half pulley
(Driver movable face #8 com-
plete with shoe driver Ass. #5)
up to the belt.
Step Ten
Finally fit the outer drum (driver
drum #3) onto the drive flats.
Using 1x black heavy gauge
washer #2, (or 2x 3/8” x 11/4”
mudguard washers )
1x 5/16” spring washer &
1x 5/16UNF x 11/2” hex bolt.
Torque down to 20ft. Lbs. Max.
Be sure the washers do not bend out through over tightening.
Warning: The standard Honda engine has an imperial
output shaft & UNF threads (Not metric) in the output
shaft & its four planet holes. The UNF thread form is fin-
er than on metric bolts.
Fit , tension & align the chain with the connecting clip in the
direction of rotation of the chain.
Step Seven
Push the collar to the left of the
pulley up very tight against the
pulley spring boss removing any
possibility of side play.
Drill as in Step Six.
Tighten the grub screw down &
check the pulley & its key are fast
to the shaft, with no movement.
Repeat the procedure with drive
sprocket & collars making sure
the chain will run free from
obstructions, & can be lined up
easily with the rear axle sprock-
et.
1
2
3
4
5
8
10
12
Torque converter
Driver Assembly.

Wasp R500 Pro-Rally Kart
Assembly Steps 17 - 28.
Step Seventeen
Once you have fitted your transmission,
position the rear axle sprocket in line with the drive sprock-
et, check the 6mm key & clamp the carrier.
The rear axle may now be wrapped along its length with
P.V.C. electrical insulation tape or painted with a water
repellent grease. This will help prevent the axle surface
corroding in damp conditions
Step Eighteen
Fit the main transmission guard to the chassis brackets,
making sure that a snug fit is achieved without fouling any
other component
Mark & drill 3x 8mm
holes.
Secure the guard to the chassis using 3x M8 x 20 soc. Cap,
3x 3/8” penny washers & 3x M8 nylocks.
Step Nineteen
Offer up the large inspection panel to the main body of the
guard.
Mark & drill 6x 3mm holes
equally spaced through the
inspection panel & the main
body of the guard. Be sure
the holes are easily
accessable to allow easy
removal & re-fitting.
Mount the inspection panel
using 6x self-tapping
screws &
6x 5mm shake-proof
washers.
Step Twenty
Mount the small inspection
panel (R.H.S. of the engine)
using 4x 3mm equally spaced
holes.
Fit the inspection panel using
4x self tapping screws & 4x
shake proof washers.
Warning: Never run the engine with the
guard or inspection sides removed.
Wasp R500 Pro-Rally Kart.
Having now fitted your transmission you are now ready to complete the final stages of assembling your
kart. Once you have completed your kart it is recommended that you read the ‘Inspection &
Maintenance Guide’ that comes with this assembly manual.
The R500 will need careful attention in its early hours as it runs in. Keep a constant check on all fixings,
adjustments & lubrication. Please note that as well as other components, the brakes will not operate at its
fullest potential as the pads bed into the disc. Do not push the kart in this period but allow it to settle in
slowly.
To maintain good long lasting safe performance all parts should be checked & inspected before every
time the kart is used.

Wasp R500 Pro-Rally Kart.
Assembly Steps 17 - 28.
Step Twenty-One.
Position the seat into a comfortable
position.
Make sure it is in parallel with the frame side rails & mark
the bolt holes with a scriber.
Remove the seat & drill 4x
6mm holes, then mount using
4x M6 x 30 roofing bolts, 4x
25 penny washers,
4x M6 washers & 4x M6
nylocks.
(Do not over tighten onto the
fibreglass.)
Step Twenty-Two (a)
Fitting the throttle cable. (Honda).
Fit the cable adjuster to the frame, a
lock nut either side of the frame brack-
et. (Just to the rear of the
throttle pedal.)
Loosen friction nut
on engine. Secure
the inner boden
cable in a noose with
the brass nipples
around the engine as
shown. Trim any
surplus cable.
Step Twenty-Two (b)
Fit the primary throttle
return spring to your engine
using the fuel tank
cowling .
N.B. It is very important
to make sure the throttle
return spring is secure &
free from any
obstructions.
Step Twenty-Three
Route the assembled inner & outer cables to
the throttle operating pedal, making sure there
are no sharp bends or kinks. Thread the inner
cable through the long cable adjuster through
the twin screw brass nipple, through the pe-
dal loop & back through the nipple. Adjust up
the play in the cable with the throttle closed.
(Minor adjustment may be made with the cable adjuster) Tighten
the two nipple screws & adjuster lock nuts.
Step Twenty-Five
Using ‘r’ clips supplied,
the dual peddles can be
fitted quickly and easily to
suit the size of the driver.
Always make sure the
clips are fully engaged.
Step Twenty-Four
Fit the throttle stop bolt to the
front of the throttle pedal with the
head of the bolt down to the
chassis.
1x M8 x 40 hex set,
(Forward pedal position)
2x M8 lock nuts, 1x M8 washer.
Press the pedal fully down with
your hand (with the throttle
cable actuating the engine throttle linkage).
Wind the bolt outwards, so that the pedal is pushed back from
its fullest extent. (By 3-4mm).
Tighten the lock nuts & check the pedal operation.
This restricts the pedal movement to just less than the engine
throttle linkage movement, preventing the later from being
damaged.
Warning! If the spring is weakened or comes off
in operation because it has not been secured
properly the throttle may stick open.
Make sure you have read & understood the
Inspection & Maintenance Manual before the kart is put into
operation.

Wasp R500 Pro-Rally Kart.
Assembly Steps 17 - 28.
Step Twenty-Five.
Step Twenty-Six.
Fit the stop switch to the steering wheel with the tag beneath
the steering wheel. Two wires are supplied, one short, one
long. Strip back the wires at either end to provide a good,
electrical contact
1. Crimp or solder the connections as shown in Diagram 1.
(If using the shrouded connectors be sure of a good fit
with the wire to the connector & the connector with the
tag. Crimp as necessary.)
2. The short wire goes from the switch earth to the earth on
the frame. (Remove any paint to allow a good earth at
engine mount & the steering column top bush mount).
3. Route the wire to allow for movement of the steering
wheel.
4. The long wire goes from the switch tag to the existing
stop on the engine.
5. At the engine pull apart the bullet connection (Black
wire at the front of the engine) joining in the long wire
into the bullet & then close the bullet securely &
insulate the connection.
This stop switch can now be used in conjunction with the
existing engine switch. Check the switch operation is
satisfactory & the switch is off when the on/off plate
corresponds. (ie. engine will stop when ‘Off’ , normally in the
downwards position.)
Check switch operation. Insulate all connections & secure the
wires to the frame & steering column.
The top speed of the kart should be
governed to suit the driver’s age & ability,
as well as the terrain. The maximum speed
for experienced drivers is recommended
to be less than 30mph.

Wasp R500 Pro-Rally Kart.
Assembly Steps 17 - 28.
Step Twenty-Seven
Fit the aluminium foot plate
4 x M8 x 20 soc caps,
M8 washers & M8 nylocks.
Fill the engine with
recommended oil & fuel
(See engine manual). Check all
the nuts & bolts are tight & all
the controls operate freely & fully as intended (Stop switches,
brakes steering Etc.).
Fit the foam padding to the cockpit area , (steering
column upright, roll bar, side rails, etc.) to help protect the
driver from any possible contact with the structure of the kart
during its operation. This can be easily cut with a hacksaw to
the correct lengths & secured with tie wraps or tape.
Step Twenty-Eight
Fit seat harness to the rear roll
frame support (steel eye) & the
webbing to the side rails behind
the lugs provided. (Make sure the
harness fits the driver correctly &
it does not interfere with any of the controls or kart
components.)
Warning! All the excess webbing
should be tie wrapped neatly &
securely to itself & under no
circumstances allowed to dangle
loose.
Thread the two bungy lengths
through the top of the bottom netting
skirt and through the bottom edge of
the roll bar net.
Secure each end around on itself,
wrapping around the roll bar upright.
Wasp R500 Pro-Rally Kart.
On completion of your kart it is highly recommended that the driver & kart supervisor read the
Inspection & Maintenance Guide & The Driver & Supervisor Instructions which comes with this
assembly manual.
The kart will need careful attention in its early hours as it runs in. Keep a constant check on all fixings,
adjustments & lubrication.
Please note that the brake will not
operate at its fullest potential as
the pads bed into the disc. Do not
push the kart during this period.
But allow it to settle in slowly.
To maintain good, long lasting,
safe performance all parts should
be checked & inspected every-
day, lubricated with the correct
lubricants & serviced regularly.
It is recommended that the
completed kart is checked over by
a qualified engineer before use.

Inspection & Maintenance Guide
To maintain optimum safe performance and long working life of your Wasp “F” Series Kart, it is recommended that the following
simple checks and maintenance are made whenever the Kart is used. Work in a clean safe environment. It is good practice to
produce a check list (or log) to prevent any part or area of the kart being neglected, Some areas will require more frequent
attention than others, This does alter with the many varied conditions, type of usage and duration of usage. Your log and
maintenance should be customised to your situation without neglecting any part. The kart should be inspected daily or if
necessary more frequently by a suitably trained or experienced person. Any maintenance on, or refuelling of the kart must only
be carried out with the engine turned off, with out a driver in the kart.
 FIXINGS: Check and tighten all kart fixings (nuts bolts, clips, pins etc.) with particular attention to steering components
and joints. Brake component fixings , front and rear wheel hub nuts. Security of axle, wheels, hub, axle keys and carriers.
(Use the correct fixings and never re use locnuts)
 BRAKE: Check for effective operation, good overall condition and correctly adjusted. For the replacement of pads,
pistons, etc. The most efficient method is to remove the whole brake calliper from the frame and carry out the work on a
bench in a clean environment . Pad wear is compensated for, by slackening off the two M10 Nyloc nuts and adjusting the
aluminium adjuster pillars and re-locking the M10 nyloc nuts. As this will mean bringing the calliper halves closer
together, the outer cable adjuster on the chassis will have to be used to remove the slack between the inner and outer
cables. After prolonged use the pad return movement may become sluggish, it will then be necessary to remove the pad,
clean the backing plate and the area behind, remove the pistons from their bores, clean both and re-lubricate with High
Melting Point graphite grease. Re-assemble and adjust, as above. When fitting replacement pads, DO NOT USE HARD
PADS, standard pads are fitted originally. When ordering pads specify they are for a mechanical brake unit. Replace the
brake cable if it becomes frayed, ensure it is kept clean and lubricate it with a light oil if a White PTFE liner is not used.
Maintenance and preparation are of paramount importance as off road equipment is subject to the maximum of stress. Any
suspicion of malfunction should be treated as serious especially as this is the only brake you have on the kart. If in doubt
do not operate the kart, seek expert advice.
 CABLES: Check all cables run freely, with excess play taken out either by using the adjusters or by moving the cable
nipples. Check the return springs are working effectively and are free from obstruction. (Lubricate if necessary) Replace
frayed or damaged cables where necessary.
 STEERING: Check for effective and free operation, Investigate any heavy steering (clean and lubricate the moving parts
or if damaged or worn, replace ) Check the security of all the parts in the steering train. Thoroughly inspect all parts in the
train from steering wheel to ground wheel, for bent, worn, fatigued or damaged parts and replace where necessary.
 WHEELS & TYRES: Replace bent or damaged rims, damaged valves, missing hub caps, cut or worn tyres check
security of fixings and tyre pressures are equal. Wheel and axle bearings rotate freely without play. With Optional none
keyed, single bolt fix wheels, check for security of the mounting bolt and evidence of any play and replace loose or worn
fixings, if there is any play in the axle ends the axle must be replaced.) For security the circlip at the end of the axle must
be in place.
 ENGINE: Read the manual supplied with the engine. Increasing the oil and air filter maintenance especially in dusty
environments is recommended. Use only the fuel and oil grades recommended. Do not mix fuels or introduce additives
unless specified by the engine manufacturer.
 FUEL: When the kart is not in use turn off the fuel, and store the kart in a dry well ventilated, secure area. For long term
storage the fuel may be drained, or the engine run with the tap turned off, to prevent stale fuel causing sludge in the
carburettor. If in doubt contact the engine manufacturer. Take the greatest of care when refuelling so as not to spill fuel.
The engine should be turned off and allowed to cool before refuelling. Refuel in a well ventilated area. Take great care to
make sure the fuel cap has been correctly and securely replaced, and not on at an angle. Check the cap and seal are in good
condition. In the event of the kart being placed at an adverse angle for whatever reason if the fuel is not turned off there is
a risk of flooding in the engine, if this occurs do not attempt to immediately start the engine. In essence if there is any
risk of flooding, excess fuel or spilt fuel there is a high risk of fire.
 SEAT: Check for security (Do not over tighten fibreglass) check for damage and cracking especially around the
mountings. Replace if damaged.
 FRAME: Check for overall good condition including stub axles steering parts, brake rod and pedals. Touch up paint
where chipped or scratched check for fatigue especially around welded joints and areas of high stress. Do not use the kart
if you are unsure, seek expert advice.

 HARNESS & WRIST RETAINERS: Check security to the chassis frame and correct operation any excess webbing
should be prevented from hanging loose when a driver is secured in the seat. If the webbing is cut, frayed or damaged in
any way, do not use replace. Check the safety netting, making sure that it is taunt & there are no gaps. Warning! There
must not be any loose or dangling net, the pedals or controls must not foul the netting.
 STOP SWITCH: Check function ,connections, cable insulation and security.
 PADDING: This is to be used in the cockpit area to help protect the driver from any possible contact with the structure of
the kart. It must be replaced if worn or damaged. Tie wraps or tape may be used to secure the foam.
 TRANSMISSION: It is good practice to remove and insulate the sparking plug cap as well as having the ignition
switched off, when working on the transmission, to prevent accidental starting of the engine. Check overall condition and
security of the drive train and guard. (Never run without the guard fitted) The clutch runs in an extremely harsh
environment with dust, dirt, water, constant stop starting, braking and accelerating. It is a part of the kart that receives a
great deal of punishment. Therefore to maintain its best performance it must be kept clean and dry. Regular light oiling of
the sprocket bush will increase its life, however excessive oil will cause clutch slip and the risk of burning on the clutch
drum. The torque converter when fitted runs in an extremely harsh environment with dust, dirt, water, constant stop
starting, braking and accelerating. It is a part of the kart that receives a great deal of punishment. Therefore to maintain its
best performance it must be kept clean and dry. Check the pulley operation is not gritty, sluggish or loose. With heavy
usage it is recommended to dismantle the pulleys and thoroughly clean all of the working surfaces, paying particular
attention to the telescoping parts, the belt produces a black rubber dust that contributes to these surfaces gumming up .It
has been found that a greaseless electrical solvent works well to remove this build up. Petrol is not suitable) When the
parts are clean and degreased they can be inspected for wear and damage and replaced as necessary. When assembling the
unit all the moving faces (Not the pulley belt faces or the belt) should be lightly lubricated with the recommended
greaseless & dust retardant lubricant .The chain should be cleaned and then re lubricated with a low fling chain spray
grease. (This penetrates the rollers and sets) The chain should be checked for wear and damage in conjunction with the
sprockets (Replace if worn or hooked or bent) The connecting link spring clip should have its nose following the direction
of rotation of the chain. The chain can be tensioned by moving the engine forward in the frame. N.B. It is very important
that the chain is not run drum tight, and that the engine has not twisted left or right. As this will cause abnormal chain
sprocket wear and damage the clutch. Line up the two sprockets with a flat edge across their surfaces. A 12” piece of key
steel that has been checked flat is a handy tool to use.) The rear driven sprocket may be moved if required by loosening its
carrier clamp and re tightening.
 REAR AXLE: Run the axle by hand with the chain removed, using reference points check there is no eccentric
movement (Bent axles, should be replaced) Check the axle runs free without binding. When placed back on the ground
push and pull the frame from side to side. There should be no floating on the axle. Floating will cause chain derailment
and other problems) Check grub screw security bearings for wear, cracked or damaged sprocket and disk carriers. The
axle should be cleaned and a thin film of grease applied to prevent corrosion.
 IN GENERAL: For the kart and associated parts, use only the recommended fixings and as with all the components on
the kart if in doubt seek expert advise. Check all components for damage wear fatigue security and safety, replacing or
repairing as necessary. Do not use the kart if it does not pass inspection. Finally the kart should be given a trial run to
check that everything works safely and effectively. Any other equipment for the drivers safety e.g. Helmets protective
clothing etc. should also be inspected.
 STORAGE: Keep in a secure ,dry, well ventilated area with the fuel and ignition turned off .

DRIVER AND SUPERVISER INSTRUCTION.
The driver must be fully instructed and familiarised with the kart and the
terrain, and supervised at all times by a responsible adult or suitably trained
instructor, It is good practice to have ready access to recommended safety
equipment such as a suitable fire extinguisher, first aid, and reliable
communication equipment.
The terrain must be carefully chosen so as not to cause any possible risk to the
driver or others.
The wheels of the kart must not leave contact with the ground or the kart be put
in the situation where there is any possibility of the kart rolling over. The top
speed of the kart should be appropriately governed to the terrain, age and ability
of the driver, This is recommended to be less than 30MPH.
Suitable protective clothing such as Padded fire retardant overalls, sturdy foot
wear, gloves, and an approved helmet with eye protection. Must be worn at all
times. Do not operate the kart with long hair, loose clothing, scarves etc. The
driver must fit the kart properly, within the frame, and be able to operate all the
controls fully, without hindrance. The driver should be fitted properly with the
seat harness and wrist retainers. Karts should not be run together.
DRIVE WITH CARE