White 221N User manual

e
*

CONTENTS
Page
Glossary
of Sewing
Terms
1A
Glossary of
Sewing
Machine
Features
18
Machine
Identification
2
Accessories
3
Detaching
Extension
Table
4
Connecting
Foot
Control
5
Changing
Presser Foot
6
Changing
Needle
7
Bobbin
Winding
8, 9,
10
Inserting
Bobbin
11
Adju sting
Lower
Tension
12
Upper
Threading
13
Drawing
Up
Lower
Thread
14
Adjusting
Pressure on
Fabric
15
Adjusting
Upper &
Lower
Tensions
16
Fabric, Needle &
Thread
Table
17
Setting
the Stitch
Length
18
Presser Foot
Lifter
19
Cloth Guide
20
Basting
21
Staystitching
21
Zigzag Stitching
22
Edge
Finishing
23
Interfacing
Darts
23
Bartack
23
Shell
Stitch
Edging
23
Satin
Stitch
23
Stretch
Stitching
24
Rick
Rack
Stretch
Stitch
25
Topstitching
26
Seaming
Knits
27
Gathering Over
Cord
27
Lace
Applications
27
Making
Buttonholes
28, 29
Cutting Buttonholes 30
Corded Buttonholes 30
Sewing on Buttons
31
Blind Hem Stitch
32
Zipper
Sewing
33
Mending/Patching 34
Mending a
Rip
34
Darning
35
Lapped
Seam Sewing
36
Applique
Work
37
Embroidery
38
Maintenance/Cleaning
39
Oiling
40
Trouble
Chart
41,42
Changing
Light
Bulb
42

1.
GLOSSARY
OF
SEWING
TERMS
APPLIQUE
Applying
a
material with
a
specific
design
onto
another material
by
using
a
straight
Or
zg
zag
stitch.
BASTING To
sew
with
a
temporary
stitch
that
can be
removed
with
ease.
This
i.
possibl,
by
using
the
longest
straight
stitch, setting
your
top
tension
on
“0”
bnd
sewing a
in, of stitches.
The top
stitch
will
be
loose
and
th,
bottom
ttltch
tight;
this
allows
you to
be
able to
remove the
lower
thread
by
pullIng.
It
may be
necessary
to
cut
the
lower
thread
at different
points
for easier
removal.
BLIND
HEM
A
variation
of
the
zig
zag
stitch
used
to
finish
a
Item
where
you
can control
the
holding stitch.
BUTTONHOLE
A
means
of
strengthening
the
sides
of
a
hole
in cloth
by a
zig
zag
stitch
to
hold
a
button.
COUCHING
To fasten
down
another
material,
like
a
nbbon
lace,
with
a
fine
zig zag
stitch.
DARNING
A
method
of repairIng
a
rip
or
tear
by
stitching
over
the
flew.
EMBROIDERY
To decorate
with
stitching,
using
either a
straight
or
zig zag
stitch.
FACING
The
addItion
of
another
piece
of
material
to
increase
the
body
or edge
of
material.
GATHERING
Forming a
zig zag
stitch
over
cord,
elastic,
or
any
separate
material.
Another term
for
shining.
A
fold,
sewn
down
en
edge
of
cloth.
Using
a
straight
stitch
for
tracery
or
zig zag
stitching
to
form
a
design.
The use
of a
zig zag
sthrji
to
finish
a
seam
or
edge
of
cloth,
or
to
prevent
the
revelling
of
a
loos,
weave
cloth.
A
triple
stretch
pattern
used
to
finish
seams
or
stretch
buttonholes.
Same
as
darning
but
covering
the
hole
with
a
piece
of
cloth.
QUILTING
Joining several cloths
together
to
form
a
bulk
cover
for beds, furniture
or clothing.
RICK
RACK
A
triple
stretch pattern
using
a
basic
zig zag
to
give
a
RiCk
RACK
effect.
SATIN STITCH
A
solid
line
of
zig zag
stitching
formed
by
zig zag
stitch
sewn
very
close
tcgetlter,
SEAM
A
line
formed
when
sewing two
peces
of
material
together.
SHELL
TUCK
The use
of
the zig zag
or
variation
of
the
zig zag
stitch
to give a
shell
effect
to
the edge
of
material.
SlURRING
To
gather
cloth
by
drawing
two
or more
thread*
together.
STRAIGHT
A
forward
Or reverse single
line
of sewing
STITCH
which
tidy
vary
from
6
to
8
stitches
per inch to ‘0’
stitches.
STRETCH
A
combination
of
stitches
formed
by
a
STITCH
forward
and
bedtward
motion
which
atows
the stitches
to
flex and
not
break,
used
on stretch
materials,
double
knits,
tricot.
lingerie,
arc.
TACKING
A
series
of
stitches
to
lock
thread.
TAPERING
A
tn.
of zig zag sewing
varying
from
narrow toe
wide
range.
THREAD SHANK
A
space
composed
of
thread between
the
button
and cloth
to engage
button
to
buttonhole
on
bulky
material.
TOPSTITCHING
A
line
or
series
of
lines
of straight
or
zig
zag sewing
which
enhances
a
bonder
giving
the
stitching
a
raised
affect.
A
term
used
for stretch
patterns,
a
pattern
formed by
a
forward,
sideward and
back
ward
combination of
stitches.
ZIG
ZAG
A
term
which
describes
the side
to
side
motion
of
lire
needle
which
creates
width
to straight sewing.
HEM
MONO.
GRAMMING
OVERCASTING
OVERLOCK
ISTRETCHI
PATCHING
TRIPLE
STRETCH
—1A—

2.
GLOSSARY
OF
SEWING MACHINE
FEATURES
ACCESSORY
For
storage
of
estra
feet,
neadles, bobbins
BOXJTRAY
and
acceseor
lee.
Also
used
55
estensron
of
arm
for
a
larger
work
strrf
ace.
LOWER
TEN.
Balances upper
and
tower
tension
threads.
SION
SPRING
BOBBIN
To
adust
the
tension
of
bobbin
case.
TENSION
SCREW
BOBBIN For
winding
bobbin
with
thread.
WIND#iG
SPINDLE
BOBBIN For
automatically
stopping
bobbin at
full
WINDING
STOP
capacity.
FACE COVER
opan
for
changing
the
bulb
provklea
easy
accela
to
needle,
and presser
bar
asa.cnbly
for
oIling.
FEED
DOG
For
feeding
materiel
through
machine.
FOOT For
activating power
to
the machine,
CONTROL
amount
of
preeaur.
exerted
on
the
foot
pedal
corrtrola
th,
speed:
attached
wirea
plug
into
machine
end
well
socket.
HANDWH
EEL
For
tumnetg
mechanism
by
hand
to
bring
needle and take
up
to
high
poertion. This
wheel
turns
toward operator.
NEEDLES
Used
to
form
a
todr
stitch
on
your
machine.
variations
are many;
example:
sharp,
ball,
leather,
etc.
For
attaching
the
needle
to
in,
lower
end
of
the
needle
bar.
For
fastening
needle
into
needle
clamp.
For
supporting
material
whan sewing.
This
plate
is
merited
for
several
hem
sizes.
A
receptacle
to protect
a
sawing
machine
whar
not
In use,
Controls
the
pressure
exerted
on
various
materials being
sewn.
Can
be
varied
by
control
lever.
When towered onto
material
it
holds
the
mteml&
against
the feed
dog.
For raising
or
towering the
presser
bar
and
presser
foot.
When
raised,
the tension
is
released
and
when
lowered,
the
tension
is
engaged.
PRESSER
FOOT For
tastenirtg presser
foot
end
attachments
THUMB
SCREW to tire
presser
bar.
REVERSE For
changing from
forward
to
reverse
SEWING BUTTON
direction,
button must
be
held
in
for
continued
reverse
sewing.
SOCKET
Located
under
the
face
cover
to
change
the
light
bulb.
SPOOL
PIN On.
for
sewing
and
for winding
bobbin.
IRETRACTABLE)
For
changing the length
of
stitch
in
either
forward and reverse
direction,
For
drawing up the
top
thread
to
form
a tight stitch.
For
cutting excess
thread,
located
on the
back and
into
the
presser
bar.
Holds
thread
taut
for
even
winding.
Guides
thread from
spool
pins
to’
the
tension.
STITCH
LENGTH DIAL
TAKE
UP
LEVER
THREAD
CUTTER
THREAD
GUIDE
FOR
BOBBIN
WINDING
THREAD
GUIDE
FOR
UPPER
THREADING
UPPER THREAD
TENSION
UPPER THREAD
TENSION
DIAL
ZiGZAG
WIDTH
DIAL
Use
for
single
or
two
thread
sewing,
helps
control
thread
lock.
Used
to
change
upper
tension
For
setting
width
of
zigzag
stitching.
Zigzag
width
may
be
varied from
0
width
to 5mm
width.
NEEDLE
CLAMP
NEEDLE
CLAMP
THUMB
SCREW
NEEDLE
PLATE
PORTABLE
COVER
PRESSER
BAR
PRESSER
FOOT
PRESSER
FOOT
UFTER
—
1
B—

Machine
identification
1.
Spool
pin
2.
Bobbin
winder
3.
Bobbin winder
stop
4. Stop motion
knob
5.
Hand
wheel
6.
Stitch lengtl
knob
7. Reverse
stitch
button
8.
Connector
9.
Stitch pattern knob
10. Base
plate
11.
Thread
guide
12.
Thread
take-up
13.
Thread
guide
14.
Top
tension
15. Bed
cover
16.
Extension
plate
guide
17.
Handle
18.
Faceplate
19.
Set screw
for face
plate
20. Presser
foot lifter
21.
Needle
plate
22.
Feed
dogs
23.
Needle
clamp
24
Needle
25.
Presser
foot
holder
screw
26.
Presser foot
27.
Extension
plate
28.
Top plate.
28
1
71
—
12
‘ .3
4
73
1
6
14
7
9
15/6
10
18
20
yq
23
24
27
25
-26
22
27
—2—

ACCESSORIES
Zigzag
foot
(on
machine)
uttonoie
foot
Button
sewing
foot
Zipper
foot
Bobbins
(3
pcs.)
Ordinary
needles
14
Oiler
Screw
drivers
Accessories
are
stored
in
built-in
compartment
at
front
of
exten
sion
table
—3—

BEFORE
SEWING
\cLJ
Machine
is
stored
in
flat-bed
style
which
makes
your
work
ea&er
in
ordinary sewing.
Detaching
Extension
Table
Pick
up and
slide
it
off
and
the
machine
is
used
as
a
free-arm
model.
Free-arm
is
convenient
to
sew
or
embroider;
trousers,
sleeves,
cuffs
of
T-shirts,
blouses, etc.
Do
vice-versa
of
above
steps
to
attach
extension
table.
To open
lid
of
accessory box,
lift
it
open,
as
illustrated.
—4--

Connecting
Foot Controller
and
Power Cord
Connect
foot controller and
power cord
CD
Before plugging
in your machine,
be
sure that voltage
is same as
that of
your machine. (written
on
a
plate
at back
of machine)
*
Specifications
vary from
country
to
country.
Always unplug
machine
when
not
in use.
The
more you
press foot
controller,
the
faster
the
machine
runs.
WARNING:
THE FOOT CONTROLLER,
FOR WHICH
ATTACHED
ON
THE
SEWING
MACHINE
MODEL 221N,
IS
DESIGNATED
FOR SEWING MACHINE
MODEL 221N ONLY.
FOR YOUR SAFETY,
DO
NOT APPLY
THIS FOOT CONTROLLER TO ANY
SEWING MACHINE
AND/OR
APPLIANCE OTHER THAN
MODEL
221N.
POLARIZED
PLUGS
CAUTION
This
product is equipped with a
polarized
alternating
current
line plug
(a
plug having one
blade wider than the other).
This plug
will
fit into
the power outlet only
one way. This is
a
safety feature.
If
you are
unable to
insert the plug fully into the outlet,
try reversing
the
plug.
If
the
plug
should
still fall
to fit,
contact
an electrIcian
to replace the
obsolete outlet. Do not
defeat
the safety purpose
of the
polarized
plug.

Changing Foot
9
Raise
presser
foot
‘ifter
D.
Set
needle
in
the highest
position
by
turning
handwheel
towards
you
.
Remove
foot
by
loosening
screw
with
screwdriver.
Replace
new
foot
and
tighten
screw.
—6—

Changing
Needle
Set
needle
in
the
highest
position
by
turning
handwheel
towards
you.
Loosen
needle
clamp
screw
and
take out
needle.
With
fiat face
away
from
you,
insert
a
new
needle
into
groove
of
needle
bar.
Push
needle
until
it
reaches
stopper
®
and tighten
needle
clamp
screw
firmly.
Always
use a
straight
needle
with
a
sharp
point.
Using
defective
or
worn
needles
not
only causes
stitch
skipping,
breakage
of
needles
or
snapping
of
thread;
it
also
can
damage
hook and needle
plate.
straight
shaft
__
l,rrIrrrf 7 21r?Jf
1
LJ
Proper
needle
sharp
point
I
If
f
11
III
I
IJ
—7—

Bobbin
Winding
-
Set
needle
position
by
towards
you.
Open latch
take
it out.
in
the
highest
turning
handwheel
of
bobbin
case
and
Close latch
of
bobbin
case
and
bobbin
comes
out
easily.
Open
shuttle cover.
—8—

Push
back to
fold
handle.
Pull
out
spoolpin.
Put a
spool
on
spoolpin.
Draw
thread
from
spoolpin
through
pretension
device,
following
numbers
D
Wind
thread
clockwise
around
bobbin
several
times.
Push
bobbin
on
to
spindle.
Holding
handwheel
with
your left
hand
disengage
haridwheel by
unscrewing
stop
motion
knob.
—9—

Push
bobbin
to
rightand
press
down
foot
controller.
P.achine
stops
autornaticlly
when
winding
is
full.
Push
bobbin
to
left.
Take
off
bobbin
from
spindle
and
cut
thread.
touble
—=
correction
fjt
j4’
Retighten
stop
motion
knob.
If
bobbin
is
wound
unevenly
as
shown, remove
top
cover
and
loosen
set-screw
of
the guide
for
bobbin winding,
by
using
screw
driver
and
adjust
height.
—10—

Inserting
Bobbin
Guide
thread
intO
slot ®
of
bobbin
case.
Pulling
thread
to
left,
bring
it
under
tension
spring
then
tO
delivery
eye
Place
bobbin
in
its
case
with
thread
running
in
direCtiOfl
of
arrow.
—11—

Adjusting
Lower
Tension
To
test
bobbin
tension,
hang
and
shake
bobbin
case as
shown.
At
proper
tension
bobbin
case
will
gradually
drop
a
small
amount.
To
adjust
tension,
turn
adjusting
screw
with
small
screwdriver.
Raise
needle
in
the
highest
position.
Leave
end
of
thread
of
about
10
cm (4”)
from
bobbin
case.
Take
hold
of
latch
and
push
bobbin
case
into
hook.
Release
latch
when bobbin
case
is
fully
inserted
—12—

UPPER
THREADING
1.
Turn
the
hand
wheel
toward
you
to
raise
the
take-up
lever
to
its
highest
position.
2.
Place
a
spool of
thread
on
the
spool pin.
3.
Lead
the
thread
through
the
top
thread
guides.
4.
Down
and
between
the
tension
discs,
from
right
to
left.
5.
Draw
the
thread up through
the
check-spring
and
with
a
slight
tug
into
the
hook.
6.
Up
and
through
the
eye
of
take-
up
level
from
right
to
left.
7.
Lead
thread
down
through the
thread
guide
at
the
bottom
of
the
threading
slot,
then,
through
the
needle
bar
thread
guide
from
the
back.
8.
Thread
the
needle
FROM
FRONT
TO
BACK,
drawing
it
through
about
3
or
4
inches.
Hold
the end
of
the
upper
thread
loosely
and
turn
the
hand
wheel
toward
you until
the
needle
goes
all
the
way
down
and
comes
back
up.
A
thread
loop
will
form
over
the
upper
thread
which
then
can
be
pulled
out
straight.
Place
both
thread ends
under
presser
foot
and
draw
toward
the
back
of
the
machine,
leaving
both
threads
three or four
inches
long.
—13—

Drawing
Up
Lower
Thread
Hold
end
of
upper
thread
with
left
hand.
Turn
handwheel
slowly
towards
you
until
needle
moves
down
and
up
again.
Pull
upper
thread
slowly
and
lower
thread
will
be
brought
up
in
a
loop.
Pull
out both
threads
to
about
1
5
cm
(6’)
and
place
them
together
under
presser
foot
on
left
—14—

ADJUSTING
PRESSURE
ON
FABRIC
•
GENERAL
SEWING
Usually
for
normal
sewing,
except for
sewing
on
very
heavy
arid
bulky
fabrics
arid
very
stretchy
knit
fabrics
of
medium
and very
light
weight,
the
center
pin
(B)
of
the
pressure
control
be
at
its
lower
position.
For
exceotioria)
fabrics,
refer
to
below
table.
To
reduce half
the
pressure,
press
the
outer
ring
(A>
of
the
pressure
control,
then
press
the
center
pin
(B)
down
again
to
halfway
short.
Fabric
Pressure
on
fabric
Ordinary fabric
of
less
elasticity:
Heavy
and
bulky fabrics
Half
Medium
weight
fabrics Full
Light
weight
soft
fabrics
Full
Very
stretchy
fabrics
and
knits:
Heavy
and bulky
ones Full
Medium
weight
ones
Half
Light
weight
and
sheer
ones
Half
—15—

CONTROLS:
ADJUSTING THREAD TENSIONS
STRAIGHT
STITCH:
GREEN AREA
Always
adjust
the
upper
thread
tension
with the
presser
foot
down,
as the
tension
is
released
when it
is
raised.
To
increase
the tension
on
the
upper thread,
turn
tension
control
to the
right.
To decrease,
turn
to
the left.
Before
adjusting
the
tension
be
sure that
the
machine
is threaded properly.
It
is
seldom
required
to adjust
the
bobbin
thread
tension,
however,
when
necessary
to change
bobbin
thread
tension,
turn
small
screw
on side
of
the bobbin
case
clockwise
to tighten,
counterclock
wise
to loosen.
When
both
tensions
are
properly
balanced,
a
perfect
stitch
will
be
formed
with
both threads
interlock
ing in
fabric
(A).
When
the upper
tension is
too tight,
the
bobbin
thread
is
pulled
up
over
the
upper
thread
which
is lying
flat
on
the fabric
(B).
When
the
upper
tension
is
too
loose,
the
upper
thread
forms
loops
over
the
bobbin
thread
lying
flat
on
the
fabric
(C).
When
the upper
and
bobbin
thread
tensions
are
balanced
but fabric
is
puckered
in sewing
direction
on
sheer
fabrics,
both
tensions
are
too
tight.
Loosen both
tensions
evenly.
It is
recommended
to
adjust
the
tension
balance
under
medium
stitch
length.
In
case
of satin
stitching
for
buttonholes
and
em
broidery
slightly
loosen
the
upper
thread
tension.
ZIG
ZAG
TENSIONS:
tC)
Zig
zag
stitch
requires
less
top tension
so
we recommend
you
turn your
tension
dial
to
red area
for
a
smoother
flat
appearing
pattern.
—16-—

Fabric
,Thread
and
Needle
Table
THREAD
NEEDLE
Cotton
European
U.SSize Point
REMARKS
FABRIC
European
Mercerized
Covered
Cotton Cotton Polyester,
705
15x1
Style
Silk,
Nylon
VERY
SHEER;
lace,
Silk
Loosen
up.
70
6D
65—70
9
Regular
Voile.
Chiffon,
Net Nylon
per
tension
SHEER;
Blouse
Crepe,
50—70
60
Silk
65—7O
9
Lawn.
Organdy.
Taffeta
Nylon
LIGHT-WEIGHT;
Crepe.
30
50
Silk
75—80
1
1
-
Wool.
Brocade.
Velvet
MEDIUM;
Wool.
Silk,
Linen.
Velvatten.
PIque,
30
50
Silk
80—90
11—14
-
Faille.
Terrycloth
HEAVY;
Denim,
Duck.
Heavy
30
C.C.Poly.
100
16
Sailcloth
Duty
EXTRA
HEAVY;
Heavy
CC.Poly.
120
19
30
Upholstery.
Canvas.
Duty
Awning
(KNITS)
Silk
LIGHT-WEIGHT;
Tricot
50—70
80 70
9
Light
Nylon
Ball
Power
net
MEDIUM-WEIGHT;
Silk
Light
Jersey,
Double
Knit,
30 50
Nylon
70—80
9—10
toMedium
Power
Net
C.C.Poly.
Ball
HEAVY-WEIGHT;
Double
Silk
Medium
30
50
Nylon
80—90
11—14
to Heavy
knit,
Power
Nat
C.C
PoIy.
Ball
FAKE-FURS,
VELOURS
30
Heavy
Ball
or
CCPoiy.
90—100
14—16
Duty
Sharp
[LEATHER
VINYLS
FILMS
30
50 C.CPoly.
90
14
Wedge
LIGHT-TO-MEDIUM-
30
50
C.CPoly.
90—100
14—16
Wedge
WEIGHT
HEAVY
LEATHER
Heavy
30
Duty
C.C.PoIy.
100—110
16—f
B
Wedge
[DECORATIVE
TOUCHES]
TOP
STITCHING
Silk
twist
100—110
16—18
Regular
MACHINE EMBROIDERY
Size
50—70
65—80
9—11
Regular
—17--