WindRider 17 User manual

OWNER’S MANUAL
3761 Old Glenola Road ■Trinity, NC 27370 ■1-800-311-7245 ■www.windrider.com

WindRider 17 Trimaran
Thank you for choosing a WindRider 17 Trimaran and becoming part of the WindRider family.
This owner’s manual will help you learn more about your WindRider craft and will help you get
started in its safe operation. We encourage you to become thoroughly familiar with your WindRider 17
Trimaran before you go sailing. Located at the end of this manual, you will find a glossary of terms
that you may find helpful to reference while reading through the instructions and guidelines.
Please be sure to complete your warranty registration card and return it within 90 days of
purchase to activate your warranty. Returning this card will also allow us to keep you informed of
updates and sailing activities with other WindRider owners.
Your local dealer will be glad to provide additional information about your new boat, and you will
also find a wealth of information from other WindRider owners in the discussion forum at
www.windrider.com.
Enjoy your boat and welcome aboard!
An Introduction to Thermal Plastics
Your WindRider 17 Trimaran’s (WR17) hulls are molded of polyethylene, a thermal plastic. This
material allows us to build hulls that are lightweight, strong, resilient, durable, and low cost.
The process used to build these hulls is called “rotational molding.” Polyethylene powder is
placed in a heated mold. The polyethylene liquefies, and the mold is rocked and rotated to distribute
the plastic. Once this cycle is complete, the mold is separated and the hull removed.
Because polyethylene is a thermal plastic and is altered by heat and pressure, it is important that
you take a few simple precautions to ensure that your boat’s hulls maintain their appearance and
proper shape. Occasionally, dents (or “wows”) can occur in the hulls of your WR17. To correct this,
place the affected hull in direct sunlight for a day and then allow it to cool. The plastic’s memory
should return the hull to its original shape.
If this does not correct the problem, hold a hair dryer a few inches from the hull (preferably on the
inside) and warm the affected area. Be careful not to melt the hull. Once the area is warm, place a
weight inside the hull, on top of the dented area, and allow it to cool.
Any trailer used to transport your WR17 should support the craft by the trailer tabs (or main
crossbeams), like the WR 17 trailer available from your dealer. With the boat suspended from these
tabs, it is best if the bottom of the keel also makes light contact with the trailer to share the weight.
This keeps most of the pressure off the polyethylene hulls while transporting. If your WR17 is stored
off its trailer on land for long periods of time, the boat it best supported as done on the trailer, rather
than resting only on the plastic main hull. This can be done with a pair of rails that mimic those on the
trailer.
Clean the polyethylene hulls periodically. The surface of a polyethylene boat contains tiny pores
that can trap dirt and road tar. Use Simple Green™ and a pressure washer to remove this grime.
Apply a UV Protectant like 303™ periodically to your boat and its interior to protect it from harmful UV
rays.

Caring for your WindRider 17 Trimaran
The WR17 is designed to be a durable, long lasting boat, but it will require maintenance to assure
performance and longevity.
Rinse
• Thoroughly rinse the entire WindRider 17 Trimaran after each sailing trip to prevent
accumulation of salt, mud and sand in working parts and to maintain the boat’s
appearance.
• Pay special attention to all metal parts that will corrode if they remain salty.
• Rinse moving parts to assure their action remains smooth.
Sail Care
• Store sails dry and free of salt and dirt.
• Roll sails to prevent creasing the Dacron. If rolled with the battens in the sails, care
should be taken to assure that each batten remains parallel to the roll.
• To ease raising the mainsail, the luff rope may be lubricated with a dry sail lubricant such
as McLube Sailkote.
Sealants
• Inspection ports are installed with sealant at the factory. Should these fittings ever need
to be replaced or simply resealed, use an adhesive called “Marine GOOP” available at
most home maintenance stores.
• The mast is a sealed section, meaning the halyards do not penetrate the mast to allow
water inflow in the unlikely event of a capsize. Sailors who choose to “push the limits”
may prefer to further seal the mast like many aggressive small boat sailors do. This can
be done by rubbing silicone caulk over and around all rivets, screws and fittings on the
mast annually, to assure their seals remain sound. This will provide an extended period
of time to right the boat in the unlikely event of a capsize.

WindRider 17 Trimaran Assembly – Getting Started
Your WindRider 17 Trimaran is very easy to assemble and disassemble, particularly when sitting
on the WindRider 17 Trimaran trailer. With a little practice, assembly takes only 15 minutes for one
person to accomplish. As you read through the following instructions, refer to the glossary at the end
of this manual to help you understand some of the terms and concepts.
Be sure to have the following uninstalled components on hand before starting:
1. Main hull
• sails(s)
• boom
• mast step assembly
• mainsheet
• mainsheet cleat
• cheek block
• shrouds and shroud bridles
• forestay, or jib with forestay sewn in
2. Starboard outrigger
3. Port outrigger
4. Mast
5. Front beam
6. Rear Beam w/ jib sheet cleat base on either side
Boo
m
Shrouds Shroud Bridle Beams
Lines Small Parts Hatches
Lar
g
e Parts

WindRider 17 Trimaran Assembly
(NOTE: The first several steps are generally completed by the dealer before delivery. Skip
forward as necessary.)
WARNING!
Make sure there are no electrical power lines overhead or between you and the
launch site before raising the mast.
Mount rear beam loosely to main hull (“rear” identified by 2” square jib brackets welded to top of
inner beam) using ¼ -20 truss head screws provided with fender washers and nuts. DO NOT tighten
nuts yet and do not remove aka lock pins from beam assembly.
Mount mainsheet cleat and cheek block loosely to starboard rear
beam plate as seen in photo at right. Do not tighten yet. (For boats with
jib, mount small aluminum clam cleat for furling line in similar location on
the port side using holes and fasters provided.)
Mount front beam assembly, again leaving nuts hand tight.
Mount mast step assembly over center portion of front beam. Front
bolts will pass through foredeck support tube and 4” rear screw will use a
red cover above deck and fender washer below deck. Tighten as much as
needed to keep flat top of mast step casting horizontal.
Mount starboard outrigger
1. Remove hex head bolts from outrigger, noting location of chain plates (forward outboard
hole on rear beam, aft outboard hole on front beam). Leave flathead screws in place to
hold backing plates.
2. Use blocks or horses to support the hull while you line it up with beam ends.
3. Test fit bolts on both beams, with chain plates in place on proper bolts.
4. Loosen bolts from rear beam and lower outrigger enough to make a ring of clear silicone
caulk around each bolt hole in the outrigger, before loosely reattaching with bolts.
Repeat on front beam.
Mount port outrigger by repeating process used on starboard side.
Tighten all 16 beam end outrigger bolts on starboard and port side, keeping front chain plates
angled approximately 20 degrees inboard of straight aft and back chain plates angled 20 degrees
inboard of straight ahead.
Tighten midbeam bolts inserted earlier, which fasten mid beam and harken gear to the main
hull. Tighten snugly, but there is no need to pull plastic hull out to make complete contact with
mounting plate.
Remove aka lock pins and slide outriggers out. It is best if outriggers are slid completely out at
this point to assure there is no construction debris within the tube and to lubricate the tubes with a dry
lube such as McLube Sailkote™. This will assure smooth sliding. Put beams back together and pin
with aka locks in extended position.

Install rudder by first sliding 3/8” long bushing and then 10.75” long
bearing tube over shaft. Slide shaft in from under boat. Now slip 1/8” thick
bushing washer over shaft and rudder head onto shaft. Rudder head
should have the front angling downward.
Routing the mainsheet
Clip the single block with becket (shown on the boom in this photo) to
the back of the rear cockpit rim, with the block hanging aft. Uncoil the
mainsheet (3/8" white line with black flecks, 33' long) and stand on the
starboard side of the rear cockpit to begin routing the sheet.
Pass the end of the sheet down past the cam cleat found on the beam
gusset and into the cheek block.
From this cheek block run the line aft and through the single
block on the starboard side of the rear deck.
Now run the line through the large sheave in the single block with
becket clipped to the cockpit rim and down into the front of the single
block mounted on the port side of the rear deck.
Finally, tie the end of the line to the becket using a bowline. A figure
eight "stopper" now should be tied in the end of the line that exits the cam
cleat. Once the sail is raised and the mainsheet is clipped to the boom,
the sheet will appear as shown at right.
Attach shroud bridles (2 short wires attached to 1.25” stainless ring) to chain plates using
shackle on rear chain plate, and the clip through the forward chain plate. (Clips should be removed
from forward chain plates to loosen the rigging while stepping the mast.) Always slide the plastic
tubing down over the shackle or clip and chain plate to assure they do not topple over on the lee side
of the boat. If the clip is not contained within the plastic tube, it may be side-loaded and bend.
Mount shrouds to mast using large 5/16” hounds shackle provided. Run shrouds to shroud
bridles and attach top hole of stay adjuster.

Mounting your jib (with forestay sewn in). Remove your jib from the
sail bag. With one person at either end of the luff wire, pull the wire tight
and roll the jib tightly around wire. Once it is rolled, secure it with a small
line or webbing strap. Fasten the top of the jib to the hounds shackle
using the long screw pin shackle and furling swivel as shown at right.
Mount the furling drum with stay adjuster to the chainplate on the bow
using a long threaded pin shackle as shown at right.
Mount forestay (or jib). Order when working from hounds shackle
down is:
• Without jib: long ¼” shackle, forestay, stay adjuster, long ¼” shackle, to chain plate.
• With jib: long ¼” shackle, jib furling swivel, jib wire, stay adjuster, furling drum, long ¼”
shackle, to chain plate.
CAUTION!
The mast and rigging on your WindRider 17 Trimaran conduct electricity.
Always look overhead for wires when rigging, transporting, launching and
sailing your WindRider 17 Trimaran.
Step mast by placing casting on ball and securing it with a safety pin, leaving rear of mast
supported by rear mast stand on trailer. Route the main halyard over the shroud wires to one of the
trampoline eyes at the front of the boat (this will be used as a temporary forestay). With rear of shroud
bridles shackled to chain plates, but with forward clips on shroud bridle disconnected from chain
plate, push mast up from front cockpit. Tighten main halyard using cleat on mast and once secure go
forward to pin forestay. Once forestay is secure in top hole of stay adjuster, loosen main halyard.
Tighten the rig by clipping hooks on shroud bridles to forward chain plate. You may want to use
a piece of line to hold bridle down while attaching hooks.

A rotation limiter line is provided at the base of the mast, which can
be inserted into the notch in mast step casting. By adjusting the
placement of stopper knots on this line, sailors can adjust the amount of
rotation their mast makes. To get started, place a knot in this line, which
allows the mast to rotate +/-45 degrees.
A jib sheet guide bungee is provided through a pad eye on the front
of the mast. Hook either end of this bungee through the holes on the main
beam gusset plates. The jib sheets will run on the outside of the triangle
formed by this bungee and the deck. The bungee will prevent the sheets
from snagging on the mast fittings during tacks or jibes.
Lowering mast
To lower your mast:
1. First put your WR17 on its trailer in an area that is entirely free of overhead power lines.
Power lines can kill you if they strike your mast or rigging, so look up and around,
TWICE.
2. Once you are in a safe area, run your main halyard around the shroud and fasten to the
forward trampoline eye. It should run directly from the masthead to the forward trampoline
eye. Unclip forward wires on shroud bridle.
3. Tighten the halyard enough that the forestay/jib goes slack, and securely cleat the halyard.
The halyard is now holding the mast up (double-check your cleating) so you can safely pull
the clevis pin at the base of the forestay/jib.
4. With the forestay released, make sure your rear upright that supports the mast is pinned
upright, and climb into the front cockpit where you will stand to lower the mast. Make sure
that the retainer pin is inserted through the mast base with its ring on the forward side of the
mast. This pin is mandatory to keep the mast on the mast base while lowering, and it must
have the ring on the forward side so it can be removed once the mast is down.
5. While standing in the front seat, uncleat the main halyard and carefully ease the halyard while
supporting mast with your other hand. You MUST LOWER THE MAST FULLY ROTATED to
the side so that the casting will not strike the mast base fittings.
6. Now, with both hands on the mast you can begin to lower the mast down to your shoulder
and then turn around and transfer it to the mast support rear trailer post.
7. If you are lowering the mast with the boat off the trailer, you must find a helper to support the
mast as the aft outrigger support would. DO NOT rest the mast on the crossbeams when it is
still secured to the mast step, as the excessive angle may overstress the mast base casting.
8. Once the mast is down and resting on its support, lean forward, hold the mast down with one
hand and unplug the retaining pin from the mast base with your other hand. If the pin is tight,
gently wiggle the mast to rotate it slightly and free the pin up for easy removal.
9. Now with this pin out you can unplug the mast base casting from the mast step ball, and then
slide the mast forward and lift it up into the forward mast cradle.

Routing your furling line
Pass the purple furling line through the fairlead on the furling drum
and through the hole in the furling drum spool. Tie a figure eight knot to
keep the line in this hole.
The fairlead may need to be twisted to point down the port side of the
deck. From the fairlead on the drum, run the furling line aft along the port
side of the hull, passing it underneath both beams, but above the
trampoline. Cleat the line in the furling cleat and tie the bitter end to the
black hatch pad eyes next to the cockpit rim, or to the hole in the gusset
plate just above the furling cleat.
Routing your jib sheets
With the jib tightly rolled, and the furling line cleated tight, tie one end
of the jib sheet (5/16" white line with blue & red flecks) to the clew of the
jib using a bowline. Run the line aft along the port side to the jib cleat on
the rear beam running it through fairlead first, and then the cam cleat.
Now, continue the sheet straight across the back beam to the jib cleat on the starboard side,
threading it first through the cleat and then the fairlead. Finally continue forward to tie a bowline on
the clew of the jib. This routing is called a continual jib sheet, which minimizes loose line in the
cockpit while sailing.
Mount mainsail on boom
1. Lay mainsail on grass or other clear surface so that the bottom four feet of the sail is
easily accessible.
2. Fasten the tack of the mainsail to the boom, using the long
shackle as shown at right.
3. Fasten the clew of the mainsail close to the boom, using the
Velcro webbing provided on the sail.
4. Tie the yellow outhaul line to the becket of the block on the boom end and route the line
from the becket, through the clew grommet, back through the block and secure it using
the jam cleat on the side of the boom.

Roll the sail
Now that the sail is on the boom, the entire package can be rolled up. Grasp the center of the
boom and start to roll toward the head of the sail. Be careful to assure the battens remain parallel to
the roll. The rolled sail can be placed in the front cockpit for storage, or rested on crossbeams to
prepare to raise the mainsail.
Raising your mainsail
The mainsail is raised using the following steps:
1. Point the boat into the wind.
2. Fasten the main halyard shackle to the head of the rolled
mainsail. Gravity will unroll the sail as you begin to hoist. Use
care to assure halyard runs straight from the masthead to the
sail without wrapping around the mast or shrouds.
3. Pull the tail of the main halyard that exits the bottom of the
mast to raise the sail, while feeding the bolt rope into the
mast.
4. Once the sail reaches the top of the mast, secure the halyard
using the cleat on the side of the mast.
5. Insert the gooseneck slide into the bolt rope slot on the mast
as shown in Step 3.
6. Tie the downhaul line to the pin on the side of the mast base
casting and from there, run it up through the downhaul ring
and back to the jam cleat on the mast.
7. Now the mainsail is secure and you can clip the single block
with becket on the mainsheet, onto the boom eye.

Removing your mainsail
1. Point the boat into the wind.
2. Unclip the mainsheet block from the boom.
3. Uncleat the downhaul line and remove it from the eye on the gooseneck. This line can
remain tied to the pin in the mast base casting.
4. Remove the gooseneck slide from the bolt rope groove in the mast.
5. Uncleat the main halyard (after confirming it has a stopper knot in the end), and roll the sail
around the boom while it slides down the mast. Use care to assure the battens in the rolled
sail run parallel to the boom.
6. The sail can be stored while rolled around the boom, which will speed your next launch.
Boom and sail can be slid under the foredeck from the front cockpit.
Route reefing line
Tie blue reefing line (found with boom) with a bowline tight around the boom.
From this bowline run the line up thru the reefing clew grommet and back down
and thru the main clew grommet. Now, turn the line and run it forward along the
boom and pass it through the tack grommet at the front lower corner of the main.
From here, run up and through the reefing tack grommet and back down to
the cleat on the boom. The length of this reefing line should be adjusted so that
when the sail is at full hoist and sheeted tightly, the reefing line is just slightly taut
so it does not droop off of the boom.
Reefing your mainsail
In winds over 15 knots you will find it more comfortable and drier to
reduce your sail area by reefing your mainsail. Any time you are able
to bury your lee outrigger, your boat will be faster if you reef the sail.
To reef the sail, head the boat straight into the wind, roll up the jib and
release your mainsheet from its cleat. Carefully move forward into the
front cockpit to work at the base of the mast. Loosen the downhaul
line. Lower to mainsail approximately 32" from full hoist and re-cleat
the halyard. Remove the blue reefing line from the cleat on the boom and begin to pull it tight,
using your other hand to pull the reefing line forward along the boom to pull the clew tight.
Continue to tension this blue line until both the clew and the tack are pulled down close to the
boom and then secure the line to the cleat on the boom. Pull the downhaul line as tight as
possible. Tighten the outhaul line as tight as possible. You are now ready to sail again. If you'd
like, the reefed bundle at the bottom of the sail can be tied to the boon to keep it tidy.

Trampoline
1. Slide trampoline into track on side of hull, with pointed corner forward and seat strap in
center of trampoline on the top side.
2. Shackle pointed corner of trampoline to stainless eye strap at front of track.
3. Use short piece line to stretch back inside corner of trampoline aft to stainless pad eye,
and pull bolt rope very taught. This line will remain secured during use and storage.
4. On each outboard corner, tie a 60” piece of line to the ring
using a bowline. From the ring, lace over the crosstube and
through the inboard fairlead, back through the ring and over
the tube and through the second fairlead, back through the
ring and back to the jam cleat.
5. Soft seats are available from WindRider that clip to the rings provided on the trampolines
and provide extra comfort for your passengers. See your WindRider dealer for this
accessory.
Adjusting your Phase3™ rear seat
To raise the seatback on your rear seat, pull the orange ball found on
the front of the seat (between your thighs) forward and slide the barrel
lock along the line to hold it in position. To lean the seat back fore and aft,
adjust the webbing strap found on the starboard side of the seatback
(under your right elbow when seated. Your thigh support may be moved
up or down by adjusting the webbing straps found on either side of the
thigh support.
Moving your front seat
The front seat is designed to be removable, so it can be used facing either forward or aft, or
removed completely to make more room for gear. To move your seat:
1. Push the front bottom of the seat back, which will flex the plastic enough to release seat
from retainer on the cockpit floor.
2. Carefully lift the front of the seat and disengage the back of seat from its retainer and
notch.
3. To re-install seat, reverse this process.

Trailering your WindRider 17 Trimaran
1. With your mainsail down, float the boat onto the trailer, using care to assure all four trailer
slides are on the trailer rails.
2. Use the winch as needed to pull the boat forward to the mast stand, and secure bow with a
line.
3. Search ramp area for power lines and use caution to avoid them.
4. Pull the boat/trailer into a clear area, with at least 12 feet of open area behind the boat.
5. Lower the mast as described previously.
6. Loosen the trampoline lines.
7. Tie crossbeams down to trailer.
8. Remove aka lock pins from crossbeams.
9. Working from the center of the outrigger (at the inspection port) lift the outrigger slightly and
begin to slide inward. It is important to find the touch for sliding both crossbeams inboard
together.
10. When beam is slid in, make sure aka locks are back in holes provided, which will prevent the
beam from sliding further in or out.
11. Repeat on the other side of boat and finish tying down.
The outer corners of your trampolines can remain laced for local trips to the boat ramp, but on
highway trips they will flap in the wind and may be damaged. To prevent flapping, unlace the outer
two corners of each tramp and roll the tramps inboard, keeping the tramp lines protruding from the
ends of the roll. Once the roll is against the hull, wrap the tramp lines twice around the roll and then
tie the bundle to the beam gusset plate. This will hold the tramp rolled tightly along the hull for
highway trips.

The Sailor’s Environment
WARNING!
Safety is every sailor’s concern. You must understand the risks associated with sailing.
The user of a WindRider 17 Trimaran and other equipment sold by WindRider is
personally responsible for his or her own safety, and should obtain proper instruction
in seamanship, including boat handling, navigation, rescue, first aid, and CPR. The
user of any WindRider product assumes all risk and responsibility for any damages,
loss and injury, including death, which result from the use of WindRider products.
Whether you sail on small lakes or oceans, you’re influenced by many factors. The ability to
exercise good judgment is an important part of proficient seamanship. The WindRider 17 Trimaran
can be particularly demanding of your skill and judgment, as it is capable of sailing at extremely high
speeds. Above all else, always use common sense.
Weather
Weather is a major contributing factor in many small craft accidents. It can change suddenly, with
little warning. Pay attention to marine weather forecasts. Plan your trip accordingly, heed all small
craft warnings, and don’t underestimate the speed with which conditions can change. We strongly
recommend carrying a hand-held VHF radio.
Visibility
The WindRider 17 Trimaran can travel at very high speeds and accelerate quickly. You must
have clear visibility around you and an unobstructed view of potential hazards when sailing at speed.
Before leaving the dock, consult nautical charts of the area to ensure you won’t encounter
unexpected hazards. Reduce sail as needed to maintain a safe speed. At night, light your WindRider
17 Trimaran as required by law. Carry adequate navigational gear (particularly a compass and GPS)
and a foghorn when conditions require.
Other Craft
You share the water with a variety of other craft. Some are incapable of making sudden changes
in direction; some lack the speed to easily avoid other traffic; and others are piloted by individuals
who are simply careless or not paying attention. In addition, many watercraft pilots do not expect a
sailboat to move at speeds similar to those of many powerboats, and may misjudge your movements.
For your own safety:
• Know the right-of-way rules, and when it’s most prudent to yield right of way.
• Exercise caution.
• Plan ahead. Speed and agility aren’t enough to always carry you out of harm’s way.
Tides
When sailing in a coastal area, consult a tide table prior to your trip. Plan your travel to minimize
the risk of tidal currents carrying your craft into hazardous areas. Light winds and strong tides can
leave you at the mercy of the current.

Hypothermia
Hypothermia is a drop in the body’s core temperature following exposure to cold air and/or water.
Common sailing conditions – prolonged exposure to cool water, spray, and wind – can lead to
hypothermia. Symptoms include violent shivering, blue-gray skin color, irrational behavior, and
muscle spasms.
Hypothermia victims need immediate medical attention. Remove wet clothing and warm the
victim using chemical or other heat sources placed on the head, neck, and torso. Never leave a victim
unattended; his or her inability to think clearly could lead to further injury.
Avoid hypothermia by dressing appropriately. Wear clothing that keeps you dry and warm. When
the air and water temperature combined are less than 100° F, wear a wetsuit, drysuit, or foul weather
gear. Your WindRider dealer can recommend suitable clothing.
Electrical Shock
Electrical shock is a common cause of injuries and fatalities among sailors. Be aware of overhead
power lines. If your mast comes in contact with one of these lines you can receive a severe, and
potentially fatal, shock.

Glossary
Sailing has its own unique vocabulary. Use this glossary to understand some of the terms and
concepts described in this manual.
Akas A Polynesian term for the cross tubes that connect the amas to the vaka.
Aka Lock A pin that secures the aka to the ama foot or main hull socket.
Amas A Polynesian term for the outer hulls of a trimaran.
Batten A semi-rigid slat inserted into a sewn pocket (batten pocket) in the leech of the sail to
help the sail hold a desired shape.
Beam The width of a boat.
Beating Sailing a boat on alternate port and starboard tacks to go upwind.
Boom A rigid member, attached to the mast by a goose-neck, running aft. The foot of the
sail is attached to the boom.
Bow The front of the boat.
Close
Hauled Sailing very near the direction of the wind.
Ease Sheets Let a sail out by releasing the mainsheet.
Fall Off Change direction, so the boat sails at a shallower angle relative to the wind.
Gooseneck The fitting that attaches the forward end of the boom to the mast.
Gybe A change of direction initiated while sailing downwind, which causes the boom to
swing across the boat.
Head Up Change direction, so the boat sails at a more acute angle to the wind.
Heave To Stop the boat’s forward motion, normally by bringing the bow into the wind and letting
the sail luff.
Heel The angle the boat tips from horizontal, due wind pressure on the sail.
Keel A fixed fin, protruding from the bottom of the boat that prevents the boat from being
blown sideways through the water by the wind.
Knot A rate of speed equal to one nautical mile per hour.

Leeway The distance a boat on a heading is blown sideways through the water.
Leeward The side of the boat away from the wind.
Luff 1) To allow the sail to flap freely into the wind, generating no power. 2) The leading
edge of the sail.
Mainsheet The line, secured to the boom, which is used to trim the sail.
Monohull A boat with one hull.
Multihull A boat with more than one hull.
Pitchpole To bury the bow, causing the boat to go end over end.
Point of Sail The position of the boat relative to the wind.
Port The left side of the boat when looking forward.
Port Track Sailing with the wind striking the sail from the port side.
Reach To move perpendicular to the wind.
Reef Reduce sail area. WindRider uses roller reefing to accomplish this.
Rudder A moveable surface, located at the stern of the boat, used to control the boat’s
direction.
Rudder
Pedals Foot pedals, located in WindRider’s cockpit, used to control the direction of the boat.
Skeg A longitudinal fin attached to the bottom of the boat that prevents the boat from being
blown sideways through the water by the wind.
Starboard The right side of the boat when looking forward.
Starboard
Tack Sailing with the wind striking the sail from the starboard side.
Tack 1) A change of direction, initiated while sailing to windward. 2) The point at which the
leading edge of the sail is secured.
Stern The back of the boat.
Tiller A rod attached to the rudder and used to control the direction of the boat.
Trimaran A boat with three hulls.

True Wind The direction the wind is coming from when the boat is at rest.
Vaka A Polynesian term for the primary, or center hull, of a trimaran.
Wave-Piercing
Hull A hull that drives through chop and waves, allowing the sail to create more consistent
power and permitting a more gentle motion. WindRider uses wave-piercing hulls.
Wind Rose A diagram describing points of sail in terms of their relationship to points on a
compass.
Windward The side of the boat onto which the wind blows.

Registration Requirements
Requirements for watercraft registration and licensing vary among the states and federal
government. We encourage you to contact the appropriate authority in your state and familiarize
yourself with these requirements.
When you register your WindRider, remember the following:
• Since your WindRider™ 17 Trimaran exceeds 16’ in length, it will be subject to
registration in many states.
• In some states, you must register a motorized craft, but not a sailboat. Keep this in mind
if you’re planning to add a motor mount and motor to your WindRider.
• Take your bill of sale and Manufacturer’s Statement of Origin (MSO) with you when you
register your boat. You will need these documents.
More Sailing Resources
The more you know about sailing, the better sailor you will become and the more fun you will
have. These books can help get you started and expand your knowledge of the sport:
The Annapolis Book of Seamanship, by John Rousmaniere
The Complete Book of Knots & Ropework, by Eric C. Fry
The Complete Sailor: Learning the Art of Sailing, by David Seidman
Learn to Sail in a Weekend, by John Driscoll
Royce’s Sailing Illustrated: The Best of All Sailing Worlds, by Patrick M. Royce
Warranty
All products manufactured by WindRider™, a Confluence Watersports Company, are warranted
against defects in materials and workmanship for the lifetime of the product. This warranty applies to
the original owner. This warranty is activated upon receipt by WindRider of the completed warranty
registration card, post-dated within 90 days of purchase. This warranty is void if the boat is used
commercially, structurally altered, or subjected to stress beyond the physical limits of the boat
material. This warranty does not cover abrasion or abnormal use. WindRider reserves the right to
change products and designs without incurring any obligation to incorporate such changes in already
completed products, or those in the hands of dealers and consumers. Boats repaired or replaced
under this warranty may or may not incorporate these changes.
WindRider, a Confluence Watersports Company, is not liable for any injury or mishap sustained
while using this product. The user of the product acknowledges assumed risks and waives any and all
claims against WindRider or Confluence Watersports Company and any of its agents.
Inspected by _________________________________________________________