Zeppelin Design Labs ALTURA MKII Plus User manual

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ALTURA MKII+
THEREMIN MIDI CONTROLLER
Assembly Manual
© 2022 ZEPPELIN DESIGN LABS. NO PART OF THIS DOCUMENT MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION FROM THE AUTHOR. ZEPPELIN DESIGN LABS TAKES
NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY DAMAGE OR HARM THAT MAY COME TO ANYONE OR ANYTHING THROUGH THEIR PRODUCTS. THE ALTURA SOFTWARE IS COVERED BY
THE CREATIVE COMMONS SHARE-ALIKE/ATTRIBUTION/NON-COMMERCIAL LICENSE, WHICH MEANS YOU ARE FREE TO ADD OR BUILD UPON THE CIRCUIT IDEA AND THE
SOFTWARE IN ANY WAY YOUR CREATIVITY ALLOWS, BUT ANY DERIVATIVES MUST BE SHARED USING THE SAME LICENSE.
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INTRODUCTION ...................................................................................................... 3
WHAT’S IN THE BOX................................................................................................ 6
WHAT YOU WILL NEED ............................................................................................ 9
POPULATING THE PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD............................................................... 9
THE CHASSIS......................................................................................................... 20
PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER ..................................................................................... 25

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INTRODUCTION
The Altura MkII+Theremin MIDI Controller by Zeppelin Design Labs
was inspired by the early electronic instrument invented by Russian
physicist Léon Theremin. Léon’s device uses a pair of antennas that
can sense the capacitance of a person’s hands. The right antenna
affects a voltage controlled oscillator (VCO) circuit. As the player
moves his hand closer to this antenna, the device emits a sine wave
tone that rises in pitch. The left antenna affects a voltage controlled
amplifier (VCA) circuit. As the player moves his left hand farther
away from this antenna, the tone becomes louder. The device is
very sensitive and can make wonderful, spooky music – but it is
very tricky to play. The performer has to play by ear: there are no
frets or keys in mid-air!
The Altura MkII+ Theremin MIDI Controller makes many
improvements on the original Theremin. First, the Altura does not
itself make sound; instead, it simply controls synthesizers and computer programs that employ the MIDI
protocol (Musical Instrument Digital Interface). Thus any sound that your synthesizer can make the
Altura MkII+ can control. Further, you can determine the key and scale (mode) in which to play. You
can even build an eight-step arpeggio and save your work in a bank of presets.
HISTORY
In 1920, as Léon Theremin (1896 - 1993) was developing radio equipment for the Soviet government,
he heard strange sounds coming from some of his circuitry. He noticed that the frequency (or pitch)
of this sound changed with how close his hand was to the circuit. He developed this device into a
musical instrument which he initially called the Thereminvox. In 1927 he left the USSR to tour Europe in
promotion of his invention, performing to large audiences and receiving mixed reactions. His tour took
him to New York where he stayed for the next 10 years; in which time he opened a laboratory and
studio, patented the Theremin, licensed its manufacture to RCA, performed with a theremin ensemble
at Carnegie Hall, and invented an electronic cello. In 1930 he conducted the first-ever concert of an
electronic orchestra. In 1938 Léon Theremin suddenly disappeared – it was said that he had been
kidnapped by Soviet agents; and later he was presumed dead.
Through the late 30’s, Theremin’s protégé Clara Rockmore rose to prominence as the world’s pre-
eminent thereminist. She preformed with world-class orchestras in large concert halls. These
performances established the theremin as a legitimate performance instrument and started to open the
public consciousness to electronic instruments and electronic music in general.
In the late 50’s, Rockmore visited Moscow and by chance made contact with her old friend Léon
Theremin. After 20 years of mysterious silence, she received word to meet Léon on a subway platform,
where they spoke for a few minutes.
It seems Theremin’s disappearance may have had more to do with the IRS than the KGB. What is
certain is that upon Theremin’s return to Russia, he was arrested and sent to the labor camps. He
landed in a secret Soviet laboratory where he developed spy gear for the KGB. He was released in
1947 but “volunteered” to continue with the KGB until 1966.
Alexandra Stepanoff playing the
theremin on NBC Radio, 1930

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In 1991 Léon, now 95 years old, returned to New York where he gave concerts, received awards,
and was reunited with Clara Rockmore. It is not clear that he remembered her. He died in Moscow in
1993, aged 97.
As for his namesake invention, the theremin was just too difficult to play to ever achieve wide-spread
popularity. The performer needed to have a very good sense of relative pitch, if not perfect pitch. Also,
the instrument took a lot of skill to play in a controlled manner. So besides Rockmore, there haven’t
been many other popular thereminists. But the theremin has never completely gone away. In fact, it
has consistently been at the center of a sub-culture passionate about electronic instruments and music,
where people are not afraid to blur the line between technology and art. One of our personal heroes,
Bob Moog, got his start back in the 1960’s designing and selling theremin kits, before he revolutionized
popular and electronic music with his modular synthesizers. At Zeppelin Design Labs, with our love of
electronic instruments and DIY kits, we hope the Altura MkII+ will continue Léon Theremin’s legacy of
inspiring both artists and electronics nerds.
HOW IT WORKS
Our MIDI version of Léon’s device uses sonar range finders instead of antennas, and rather than
producing sound directly, the Altura MkII+ emits discreet packets of digital data that are interpreted
by a separate synthesizer or other sound-making device. The Altura’s right-hand sensor transmits
Note-On/Off messages to play specific notes, thus controlling pitch. The left sensor transmits Channel
Volume data, thus controlling volume. But this is just the start! The left sensor can be set to transmit
many MIDI functions, like pitch bend, modulation, note velocity, and portamento time. The Portamento
function causes one note to glide smoothly to the next, emulating that spooky Theremin sound; but with

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this function, the device is always gliding to a specific note within a key and scale you designate. As
a result, the Altura always plays in tune! .
The Altura MkII+ was designed as a companion to the Macchiato Mini Synth by Zeppelin Design Labs.
There are a few special features that will only work well when paired with the Macchiato. Otherwise,
the Altura conforms with General MIDI 1.0 specifications and should
easily control any device bearing this mark. Many MIDI devices do
not conform to the General MIDI specification. These devices will not
necessarily respond to the Altura MkII+ as described herein. In these
cases, you may need to fiddle a bit with your synthesizer to get it to
behave. Alternatively, you can route your Altura controller through a
software application that will enable you to redirect its data as needed.
The Altura MkII+ comes as an easy do-it-yourself kit (soldering required), or assembled and ready-to-
use. We hope you enjoy building and using your Altura in creative ways!
Connect with your music…build your own gear!

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WHAT’S IN THE BOX
Table 1: Altura MKII+ Theremin MIDI Controller Bill Of Materials (BOM) is a complete parts list of
everything that should be present in your kit, followed by photos of each part. Print the BOM and
carefully go through the kit, identifying every part. Before removing
anything from the silver static-protective bag, please read about the
proper handling of IC’s in the paragraph “Integrated Circuits (IC’s)”
on page 35. Note that some of the components may be difficult
to tell apart. Compare them carefully with the photos. Besides
verifying that nothing is missing, this will acquaint you with the
parts and their names. If ANYTHING is missing, first double-
check; we double-checked before sealing the box at our lab! If
it’s still missing, EMAIL US right away at info@zeppelindesignlabs.
com. If we goofed and shorted your kit, we will get replacement parts
in the mail to you as soon as possible. If you lose or damage anything, we will be glad to sell you
replacements. The unusual or custom components can be ordered directly from us (contact info@
zeppelindesignlabs.com). For more common parts, like resistors, capacitors, or screws, you may prefer
to go to a local electronics or hardware store.
TIP: Empty
the parts of the kit into a
bowl, NOT onto the cluttered
workbench, or onto the living
room carpet! This will protect
you from losing tiny parts.
Figure 2: What’s In The Box

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Table 1: Altura MKII Theremin MIDI Controller Bill Of Materials
Part # Description Notes Qty
CB-06-10 4 Pin Header Cable From PCB to distance sensors 2
HD-10-04 Rubber Adhesive Feet 4
CP-10-08 Electrolytic Capacitor 16V 220uF C1 1
SW-30-25 Tact Switch S2,S3,S4 3
SW-60-23 Tact Switch Button Cap - Black 3
HD-05-01 9V Battery Snap
DI-30-56 5mm Red LED LED 1
DS-30-37 3 Digit 7-Segment Display Display 1
CH-77-20 Top Chassis
CH-77-21 Bottom Chassis
FA-64-30 Coarse Thread Screw M3x10 For Distance Sensor Holders 4
HD-05-02 9V Battery Box 1
HD-40-10 DC Power Jack P1 1
HD-40-50 MIDI Jack, Female P3 1
HD-60-10 Sensor Bracket 2
SN-20-01 Ultrasonic Distance Sensor 2
HE-20-01 12mm Tall Single Row Header - 14 pins - In one or more pieces 1
HE-20-21 21mm Tall Single Row Header - 12 pins - In one or more pieces 1
FA-60-32 1/4” Machine Screw 2
FA-60-34 1/2” Machine Screw 2
PC-73-01 Altura MKII+ Main PCB 1
PC-76-03 Altura MKII+ Display PCB 1
ST-60-10 LED Standoff - 5mmx17mm Tall 1
ST-60-12 Standoff - 4mm x 12mm Tall 1
PL-10-76 Altura MKII+ Supplemental Vinyl Label 1
PL-20-76 Altura MKII+ Top Panel Label 1
PL-20-78 Altura MKII+ Front Pinstripe Label 1
PL-10-90 Serial Number Sticker 1
PT-10-10 Potentiometer Linear 100K VR1 - VR7 7
IC-80-50 Voltage Regulator 5V 100mA 78L05 U5 1
SW-50-30 Pushbutton Switch DPDT S1 1
SW-60-22 Red Power Switch Cap 1
FA-63-23 Sheet Metal Screw For the Battery Box 2

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CB-06-10 HD-10-04 C1 S2,S3,S4 SW-60-23
BATTERY SNAP LED DISPLAY CH-77-21 CH-77-20
FA-64-30 HD-05-03 P1 P3 HD-60-10
SN-20-01 HE-20-01 HE-20-21 FA-60-34 FA-60-32
PCB DISPLAY PCB ST-60-10 ST-60-12 PCB
PL-10-74 PL-10-75 PL-10-90 VR1-VR7 U5
S1 SW-60-22 FA-63-23

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WHAT YOU WILL NEED
Here’s everything you will need to build The Altura MkII+ Theremin MIDI Controller kit...
TOOLS
1. #2 Philips screw driver
2. Soldering iron (not a soldering gun, or a “cold heat” iron), good quality, 15-50 watt, with a good
medium or small-sized tip, conical or chisel shape. One with a temperature control and a stand
is best.
3. Damp sponge to clean your soldering iron
4. Wire strippers
5. Flush cutters or small diagonal cutters
6. Clamp or vise to hold the printed circuit board while soldering (optional, but handy)
7. Solder sucker and/or solder braid (optional, but very handy if you have to remove or repair any
components!)
8. Ruler or straight edge
9. Hobby knife or X-Acto knife
10. Digital multimeter (not necessary for assembly, but handy for troubleshooting)
SUPPLIES
1. Solder, 60/40 rosin core, the smaller diameter the better (we prefer .032” diameter). Make sure
it’s good quality; we prefer Kester brand, but most brands will work fine.
2. Hot glue (and hot glue gun)
3. Thick/gel superglue (CA glue)
4. Isopropyl alcohol and a rag or cotton swab
POPULATING THE PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD
Your work space should be well-lit, well-ventilated, and disposable; that is, don’t work on the nice dining
room table! Work on a utility surface that you can burn, drill and scratch. A piece of ¼” tempered
masonite, or a sheet of MDF, makes an excellent surface if you don’t have a utility work bench.
CAUTION: Solder fumes are not healthy for you. The fumes consist of vaporized flux, which
can irritate your nose, lungs, and even your skin. You MUST work in a space where the air
drifts away from you as you work, so fumes do not rise straight into your face.

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CAUTION: Solder residue usually contains lead, which is poisonous if you ingest it. Do not
breathe the fumes, do not eat the supplies, wash your hands after you handle solder, and
sweep and wipe up your work space after EVERY USE.
Most of the components in your Altura MkII+ kit will be soldered to the printed circuit board (PCB);
only the distance sensors and the display board will be attached to the board via headers. All of the
components will be installed from the “component side” of the board, which is the side that has the
part labels printed on it. The other side of the board is called the “solder side,” which, as the name
implies, is the side on which the legs of the components will be soldered. Proper technique for installing
and soldering components to a circuit board is demonstrated through several great resources on
Instructables and Youtube under the search “PCB soldering tutorial.” The general procedure consists
of the following:
1. Install the part on the “component side” of the board, by pushing the legs of the components
through the appropriate holes in the board. For your convenience, the board has silk screen outlines
indicating where the components should be placed, along with text indicating the part number and the
component value.
2. Hold the component in place with your finger and turn the board over.
3. Tack one of the component legs on the solder side of the board with a small bit of solder
4. Once the component is secured, thoroughly solder the rest of the legs.
5. Go back to the original leg that was first tacked down and re-solder it.
Figure 3: Component Values And Locations

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You will notice that we have installed several components on the PCB already. These components
are all surface mounted, which are a little more difficult to solder. The pre-assembly of these surface
mounted components makes your job of building this kit much easier.
Let’s begin!
1. Headers: Your kit includes two kinds of headers: 14 shorter pins (which might come in a few
pieces) and 12 longer pins. We will first work with the shorter pins. These will be installed across
three different locations on the PCB. You will need to break or cut the headers into two pieces of
four pins each, and two pieces of three pins each.
a. Sensor headers: First, we’ll install sensor headers. Carefully break two pieces of 4 pins each
from the row of headers. One of the 4-pin pieces goes in the “Right Sensor” position (2). Be
sure it is flat against the top of the PCB and solder it the same way as the ISP header: tack a
pin down and then solder the rest of the pins (3,4). The other 4-pin piece goes into the “Left
Sensor” position.
12
34

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b. ISP headers: Next, we’ll install the In-System Programmer (ISP) headers. This is a 2x3 header
array that enables the Altura to be “flashed” or programmed with new software.
Break two pieces of three pins each from the remaining row of headers. Place each of them
in the ISP position on the PCB. The short pins go through the board; the long pins point up.
Make sure the bottom of the headers are flat against the circuit board (5). Tack one pin on
each row down with solder while you hold the header in from the top (6). Once each row
has been tacked on, you can solder the other pins in place (7). Remember to properly re-
solder the “tacked on” pins.
56
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2. 220uF Electrolytic Capacitor (C1)
This electrolytic capacitor (aka “cap”) IS POLARIZED: there is a right way and a wrong way to
install it. If you get it wrong, the cap might burst. The white stripe on the case indicates the
negative lead of the cap. Notice that one of the leads is longer than the other. The long lead on

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the capacitor is the positive lead.
STRIPE = NEGATIVE = SHORT LEAD = ROUND PAD
NO STRIPE = POSITIVE = LONG LEAD = SQUARE PAD
Make sure you orient this cap properly! For reference, Figure 3 has a little red plus sign(+) on
the positive pad. Bend out the leads, flip the board over, solder and snip all the leads.
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3. Voltage Regulator 78L05 (U5): This component is shaped like a three-quarter moon and is also
polarized. Make sure the component is positioned in the same direction as the graphic on the
circuit board (13). Thread the three leads through the PCB, and bend the leads out on the other
side of the board. Solder and clip the leads
13 14
15 16

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4. Jacks:
a. Power Jack (P1): Press it snug to the board. Double check that it is sitting flush and square to
the edge of the board (17). Solder the pins on the solder side. (18)
17 18
b. Power Switch (S1): Press the switch snug to the board and solder the leads.
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c. MIDI Jack (P3): Press it snug and flat to the board, and then solder it in.
20 21
22 23

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5. Tact Switches:
a. Use a tiny drop of super glue to attach the little button caps (part number SW-60-23) to each
of the switch actuators (24,25). You don’t need much glue, less than a drop each! Make sure
each cap is pressed down tight to the tip of the actuator; otherwise it won’t fit properly in the
case. Let the glue fully set up before you move on with the next step.
24 25
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b. Install/solder tact switches Install the tact switches at S2, S3, S4 (28,29). It doesn’t matter
which direction they are installed. The pins should snap into place. Solder all the pins on the
solder side (30)
28 29
30

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6. Potentiometers:
a. Install the potentiometers (aka “pots”). Make sure they are all seated securely and flush
against the PCB; otherwise the completed board won’t fit properly into your Altura’s case
(31). Double check that the shafts of the pots are all standing at 90 degrees to the board
(32)
31 32
b. Solder the pots. When soldering do not use too much heat. If you cannot move quickly with
your iron, solder one pin on each pot sequentially. This will allow each pot to cool before
you solder its next pin (33). Make sure all five pins of each pot are soldered.
33 34

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7. Display Board:
a. Seven segment display: Carefully install the seven segment display onto the display board. It
is critical to note which direction the display is orientated compared to the dot on the top
right of the board: the decimal places should be at the bottom of the display and the dot on
the top right of the board (35,36). Do not install the display upside down! Solder and clip
the leads (37,38).
35 36
37 38
b. Display board headers: Break the long (21mm) headers into two sets of 6 pieces. Install
these headers on the display board as in the photos (40). Use the same technique you used
installing the previous, shorter headers…hold one of the pins to the board while tacking the
pin to the board with solder (40). Then solder the rest of the pins. Before you solder them,
make sure that these headers are perpendicular to the surface of the board (not at an angle).
39 40
41 42

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c. Installation on the main board:
i. Place one 12mm standoff on each of the corner pins of the headers. Put one of the small
holes through the header pin first, so that the small hole side of the header is closest to
the display PCB (43,44).
43 44
ii. While holding the display board upside down, so the headers don’t fall off the pins,
slide the headers into the holes on the main board. This is kind of a tricky process, so it
helps to slide in one side (6 pins) of the display board headers at a time. Make sure that
the dot on the display board (on the top right) is closest to the dot on the main board
(46). Once again, do not install the display board upside down!
45 46
8. Power light (LED)
a. Place the LED in the LED standoff (part#ST-60-10). Feed the leads in through the open end of
the standoff, and thread the leads through the two small holes in the other end. The red
plastic body of the LED should be up against the open end of the standoff.
47 48

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b. The LED is installed on the PCB in the spot marked LED. The LED, being a diode, is polarized
and must be installed in the correct orientation. If you get it backwards, the light won’t work.
The long lead goes into the hole with the square pad (49,50). Make sure the standoff is
standing straight up. Bend the leads out on the bottom; flip the board over and solder and
clip the leads.
49 50
51 52
9. Battery snap: Feed the battery snap leads through the two holes in the PCB as shown, in the one
hole and out the other. This hole configuration acts as a strain relief, so when the battery snap is
pulled it won’t stress the wire’s solder joints. The wires get soldered to the “9V” port. The red
wire goes in the square hole and the black wire goes in the round hole.
53 54
55 56

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THE CHASSIS
1. Use rubbing alcohol and a rag to clean and de-grease the top chassis and bottom chassis, both
outside and inside.
57 58
2. Attach the labels:
a. Remove all the punch-outs from the main label (including the rectangle hole for the display).
Place the top label onto the top of the chassis and line up all the holes. Try to make sure all
the holes in the chassis are in the very center of the label holes(59). Use some tape to hold
one side of the label to the top chassis in the proper place. Lift the side of the label that isn’t
being held down by tape and peel away and cut off about half of the backing (60).
Carefully lay and smooth the label back down on the chassis top. Rub it down thoroughly.
Remove the tape and remove the remaining backing. Smooth down the other side of the
label.
59 60
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