3D Hobby Shop Extra SHP 47" User manual

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3 D H O B B Y S H O P . C O M
Assembly Manual - Extra SHP 47”
Thank you for purchasing this 3DHobbyShop ARF RC aircraft. If you have any issues, questions,
concerns or problems during assembly, please contact our tech department at:
[email protected] or 1-830-990-6978 10am-5pm Central M-F
We highly recommend www.RCGroups.com as a good source for RC tips, tricks, and information.
SAFETY in Assembly
During assembly of this aircraft, you will be asked to use sharp knives and hobby adhesives. Please
follow all safety procedures recommended by the manufacturers of the products you use, and always
follow these important guidelines:
ALWAYS protect your eyes when working with adhesives, knives, or tools, especially power tools. Safety
glasses are the best way to protect your eyes.
ALWAYS protect your body, especially your hands and fingers when using adhesives, knives, or tools,
especially power tools. Do not cut toward exposed skin with hobby knives. Do not place hobby knives on
tables or benches where they can roll off or be knocked off.
ALWAYS have a first-aid kit handy when working with adhesives, knives, or tools, especially power tools.
ALWAYS keep hobby equipment and supplies out of the reach of children.
IMPORTANT NOTE – We strive to provide the absolute best-quality ARF aircraft on the planet. However,
the ultimate success or failure of this aircraft is dependent upon proper assembly by you
SAFETY in Flying
SAFETY NOTICE: This is NOT a toy! It is a very high-performance RC airplane capable of high speeds
and extreme maneuvers. It should only be operated by a competent pilot in a safe area with proper
supervision.
ONLY fly your aircraft in a safe, open area, away from spectators and vehicles–and where it is legal to fly.
NEVER fly over an unsafe area, such as a road or street.
NEVER fly near overhead power or utility lines. If your airplane ever becomes stuck in a line or a tree DO
NOT attempt to retrieve it yourself. Contact the authorities for assistance in retrieving your aircraft.
Power lines are DANGEROUS and falls from ladders and trees CAN KILL!
Never fly too close to yourself or spectators. Spinning propellers are DANGEROUS!
Never run your motor inside a house or building with the propeller attached – Remove the prop for safety.
Always fly within your control.
Always follow manufacturer’s instructions for your radio system.

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Always obtain proper insurance before flying – contact the AMA at www.modelaircraft.org
REQUIRED ITEMS
CA Glue – Thin and Medium
CA accelerator and debonder
Hobby Knife
Set Metric Allen Wrenches
Phillips screwdriver
Scissors
Small Pliers
Wire Cutters
Rubbing alcohol
Paper towel
Optional – Heat Gun
Blue Loctite thread locking compound
Assembly Instructions – Read completely before starting assembly!
NOTE: 3DHobbyShop has online build videos for this aircraft hosted at
www.vimeo.com and linked on the 3DHobbyShop website. If you have problems
locating the build videos, contact 3DHobbyShop for assistance or consult
www.RCGroups.com for the latest information on build videos and other news
about the 47” Extra SHP.
Unpack your airplane and examine the components. Check for damage of any kind. If you have
damage, please contact 3DHobbyShop to discuss.
WRINKLES
Your airplane was packed in plastic at the factory without any wrinkles in the covering. You may notice
some wrinkles now; more likely, you will notice a few in a day or two or the first time you take the plane
out to the flying field. These wrinkles are the result of wood shrinkage and/or expansion. Wrinkles may
be removed with the gentle application of heat to the covering material on your airplane. The best tool to
use is a heat gun. Apply the heat gently: the covering material will shrink as you apply the heat, and this
will remove the wrinkles. BE CAREFUL! Too much heat applied too quickly can damage the covering,
either by causing it to pull away from the wood at seams and corners or even by melting it. The covering
will shrink at low temperature with patient application of heat. Wrinkles in the covering DO NOT affect
flight performance.
Remove the canopy before attempting to use heat on your covering! The canopy is made of thermo-
activated plastic and WILL deform with the application of heat. Do not apply heat to the canopy.
PAINT
If you need to clean your airplane, we recommend using a damp towel. The paint used on the canopy
and cowl is not safe for all cleaners.

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Attach landing gear to fuselage using two 3mm allen-head screws (the two shortest screws in your kit).
Use blue Loctite on these screws.
Attach landing gear cover plate. For permanent installation, use medium CA glue. To be able to easily
access landing gear screws, use clear tape to attach plate.

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Place wheel on aluminum wheel axle and install aluminum wheel collar, using a 1.5mm allen wrench to
tighten the set screw.
Place wheel and axle assembly inside wheel pant. Attach wheel/pant assembly to carbon landing gear
as shown using locking nut. NOTE: The locking nut will be difficult to tighten since it is a locking design.
Use a pliers to hold the wheel collar and a nut driver or wrench to turn the nut.

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Remove one square of covering from the fuselage bottom behind the wing as shown, for a cooling vent.
Remove covering over wing spar hole, wing bolt hole, aileron wire hole, and anti-rotation pin hole as
shown in side of fuselage on both sides.

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Remove the covering over the horizontal stabilizer opening and servo opening on both sides of the
fuselage as shown.
Trim rear section of stabilizer opening to ensure good clearance for elevator joiner.

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Insert horizontal stabilizer (note the color scheme on top). Use a ruler to square the stabilizer side to side
as shown.
Insert carbon wing tube into fuselage. Measure from tube to horizontal stabilizer on both sides of
fuselage. Equalize measurements to square the stabilizer.

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Drip thin CA glue into the stabilizer-fuselage joint. Do not remove any covering from the horizontal
stabilizer.
Apply medium CA into the slot in fuselage and install vertical stabilizer.
Drop a few drops of thin CA onto the elevator joiner rod at the factory joint of elevator and rod. Allow to
soak in for a few minutes, then wipe off excess.

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Install elevator half with joiner rod onto horizontal stabilizer, sliding hinges into slots in stabilizer DO NOT
GLUE HINGES YET. Apply a generous amount of medium CA into joiner slot on second elevator.
Install second elevator onto elevator joiner rod and slide hinges into stabilizer. DO NOT GLUE HINGES
YET. Allow joiner rod to cure.
Adjust elevators left-to-right to align with stabilizer. You may notice some twist of the elevator assembly.
This will not affect flight performance. If you wish to remove any twist for cosmetic reasons, have a
helper twist the assembly slightly the opposite way, and shrink out the resulting covering wrinkles with a
heat gun. This will remove any twist.
Make sure the elevator can flex 45 degrees up and 45 degrees down without binding. Correct any
binding by leaving a slightly larger gap between the stabilizer and elevator. This is called “hinge gap” and
typically the 47” SHP needs about 1/16th inch of gap.

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Apply two large drops of thin CA glue to each elevator hinge. Allow to soak in and cure. Do not use any
accelerator on this glue, allow the glue to fully soak in.
Remove covering over slot in bottom of rudder as shown.

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Use small drill bit, small screwdriver, or end of tailwheel wire to make a hole in the rudder at the
appropriate spot and insert tailwheel wire into rudder. Check location against manual photo, and if the
wire is in the correct location, remove and put a generous amount of medium CA glue into slot. Install
wire and allow to cure.
Install rudder onto fuselage, sliding hinges into slots in rear of fuselage and vertical stabilizer. Check
alignment of bottom of rudder and fuselage as shown. Drip two large drops of thin CA glue onto each
hinge. Allow to cure.

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Install tailwheel bracket with two small wood screws. Check for free swinging of rudder. Adjust bracket
as necessary to allow rudder to swing freely. Install tailwheel and tighten tailwheel collar with 1.5mm
allen wrench.
Locate the 4 control horns in your kit. The two on the right are for the elevator and rudder. The longer
horns on the left are for the ailerons.
Remove the covering over the slot in the rudder on the RIGHT side as shown, apply a generous amount
of medium CA into the slot and onto the bottom of the control horn. Insert horn into slot fully as shown
and allow to cure.

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Pushrod connectors – The pushrod connectors attach to the servo arm with a nut, as shown. When you
install these pushrod connectors, do not tighten the nut all the way, the connector must be free to rotate.
Place a drop of medium CA on the end of the nut and apply CA accelerator to lock it to the threads. You
must lock the nuts on your servo connectors, otherwise the nuts will vibrate loose and your plane will
crash.
On the HS-65 servo stock arm, you must open the diameter of the hole in the servo arm for the pushrod
connector, use a drill bit or you can rotate the point of a hobby knife in the hole to open it.
Make sure your connectors rotate freely after installation.
Attach servo extension onto rudder servo, use tape or a commercial servo plug lock to be sure that the
extensions does not become unplugged in flight. Using servo mounting screws which come in the servo
package, install the rudder servo as shown.
Use the longest pushrod in your kit for the rudder. Install as shown

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Install elevator horn, servo, arm, and pushrod on the LEFT side of the aircraft using the same procedure
as the rudder components. The elevator pushrod is the 2nd longest in your kit. The elevator pushrod will
require a slight bend near the servo for alignment.
Assemble your brushless motor for mounting *in front of* the firewall (many brushless motors have more
than one mounting option). Mount the motor to the firewall as shown using the 4 longer 3mm allen-head
screws in your kit. If you are using the recommended motor, you will need to use the 4 white nylon motor
spacers included in your kit. Use blue Loctite on these screws.
Attach your speed controller to the side of the motor box with plastic Zip-ties or Velcro.
The motor and the speed control are connected together with 3 wires. If you need to reverse the direction
of rotation of your brushless motor, disconnect and switch any two of these wires.
NOTE: NEVER RUN YOUR MOTOR WITH A PROP INSTALLED INDOORS OR ON YOUR
WORKBENCH. DO NOT INSTALL YOUR PROP UNTIL YOU ARE PREPARED FOR AN OUTDOOR
TEST.

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Install your receiver onto the receiver mount in the fuselage as shown using Velcro or a Zip-tie.
The cowl mounts using 4 small wood screws which screw through the cowl into small plywood rectangles
at the front of the fuselage. In order to know where to make the holes in the cowl for the screws, place
tape strips on the fuselage over the plywood as shown.
Install cowl and align, use tape to hold the cowl in position while you work. Use the tape strips to locate
the position for the holes in the cowl. Use a small drill or a hobby knife to make holes in the cowl.

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Remove cowl, place a drop of thin CA glue into each hole in the fuselage, allow to cure, and re-install
cowl with 4 small wood screws as shown.
Align covering stripes on ailerons with stripes on wings. Apply two large drops of thin CA glue to each
aileron hinge. Allow to cure.

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Remove covering over servo opening and aileron control horn slot as shown.
Install aileron control horn as you installed the other horns. Use the installed pull-string to pull the servo
wire through the wing.

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Install the servo using the servo screws which come in the servo package. Install pushrods and servo
arms as shown.
Install SFG’s on each wingtip using the 4 large wood screws as shown.
Attach wings to fuselage with nylon wing screws. NOTE – the carbon wing tube is designed to be
removable, and is not meant to be glued in place.

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Balancing: The recommended starting balance (CG) point of the 47” Extra is 3.5 inches behind the
leading edge of the wing measured at the root of the wing, where the wing meets the fuselage.
This is a conservative CG location, excellent for sport flying or precision flight. For 3D flying, you may
wish to move your CG back. If you do so, move it in small increments, a small change can have a large
effect.
An easy way to verify your CG settings during tuning is to do the “roll inverted” test. Trim your plane for
perfect upright hands-off flight. Then, with sufficient altitude, at ¾ throttle, roll inverted and release the
controls. Your airplane should very gently descend. If instead, it climbs, it is far too tail-heavy. If it dives
sharply, it is too nose heavy.
Scott’s Tip:
Control Throws and Exponential
Setting appropriate control throws is a critical step in matching your model to your
flying style. Personally, I use two different flight “modes”– precision and 3D. Depending upon
your radio, you may be able to combine all three dual rate functions onto a single switch, which
is the technique I use. Regardless, be sure to use a common assignment scheme to prevent
being in the wrong rate at the wrong time. I prefer my switches to be higher for high rates and
lower for low rates, but virtually any combination will work – just be comfortable with your
setup.
Low/Precision Rates (in degrees and inches) and Corresponding Exponential
Aileron 15 degrees .75” 30% Expo
Elevator 13 degrees 1.25” 30% Expo
Rudder 45 degrees 3.5” 75% Expo
High/3D Rates (in degrees and inches) and Corresponding Exponential
Aileron 28 degrees 1.25” 75% Expo
Elevator 45 degrees 3” 85% Expo
Rudder 45 degrees 3.5” 75% Expo
The above throw measurements were taken at the aft edge of the ailerons and elevator,
and from the bottom aft edge of the rudder. Keep in mind that even the low throws mentioned
here are relatively aggressive, so be sure to also program the matching exponential listed to help
soften the model’s feel around center stick.
One of the things you may notice is that my low rates are dramatically lower than you
might expect. I find that I have such great control authority that I need to minimize the elevator
in particular or the snap rolls will be far too deep into the stall for clean recoveries. You should
also note that even the high aileron rates are also relatively sedate compared to the extreme 45
degree throws common to 3D models. I set my 3D rate aileron throw for a comfortable roll rate
during the slowest rolling maneuver I fly – the rolling harrier. I prefer to hold full aileron throw
during the rolling harrier, so excess throw results in excess roller rate, which is detrimental to
not only the maneuver’s appearance, but also the maneuver’s timing.

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After you have completed all of your radio setup, take the model outside and install your propeller. Test
run your power system in a safe manner. Recommended power level for the Extra is 350-440 watts.
NOTE: Small brushless motors typically have aluminum prop adaptors with aluminum screws threads.
These threads are easily stripped or broken. DO NOT apply too much torque when tightening your
prop. A wrench is not necessary, it applies too much torque. We prefer a nut-driver or pliers.
Be sure to check the motor manufacturer’s recommendations for help in selecting a prop. Good props for
the 47” Extra are 12x6 APC E and 13x6.5 APC E.
Recommended Equipment for the 47” Extra:
Motor Omega 103g1030KV
ESC Hacker X-55 SBEC
Spinner 40mm or 1.75” electric
Servo Hitec HS-65MG
Extensions 2 x 12” 3 x 6”
Battery 3S 2200-2650mah 25C lipo
Special note about servo arms:
3DHS manufactures longer servo arms for the Hitec HS-65 servo. Some transmitter setups require
longer servo arms to achieve full 3D throw.