Asko D1976CSTM User manual

Page1
AUTOMATIC HIGH LOOP
The drain hose is fastened to
the back of the machine at
the best height. To eliminate
potential drain problems leave
this hose in place.
IMPORTANT!
Read all of these instructions
before installing the dishwasher.
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS FOR FUTURE REFERENCE
Introduction 2
What You Need 2
Dimensions 3
Preparing the Location 3
Water Supply 4
Drain Connections 5
Electrical Connections 6
Preparing the Dishwasher for Installation 6
Moving the Machine into Place 7
Connecting the Electric Cable 8
Connecting the Water Supply 8
Adjusting the Leveling Legs 8
Fastening the Dishwasher to the Cabinet 9
Replacing the Toe Kick Brackets 9
Installing the Toe Kick 9
Changing the Standard Front Panels 10
Fitting a Semi-integrated Custom Door Panel on
Model D1976CSTM 11
Fitting the D1796FI and D1996FI Custom Door Panel 12
CONTENTS
ASKO DISHWASHER
INSTALLATION
INSTRUCTIONS

Page2
TOOLS
1) Phillips No. 2 screwdriver
2) Flat blade screwdriver
3) Torx screwdriver size T 20
4) Adjustable wrenches (if you use copper fittings)
5) Open-ended wrench (1/2" [12 mm] or 5/8" [16 mm])
6) Tape measure
7) Spirit level
8) Electric drill with 1” drill bit
9) Keyhole saw
MATERIALS
♦Minimum 3/8" OD copper tubing of sufficient length
for your installation
♦Shut-off valve and fittings for water supply line
Tip Guards (optional)
When it is not possible to attach the
dishwasher to the cabinet or the
underside of the cabinet top, you
should install tip guards to prevent the
machine from tipping when you open
the door.
Refer to page 4 for installation
instructions.
TECHNICAL DATA
Water pressure 18-176 psi
Power 120 v, 60 Hz, 15 amp.
Heating element 1400 w
Max loading 1650 w
Read these instructions carefully and completely before
you install the machine. The installation should be
carried out by a qualified person who is familiar with all
local codes and ordinances for electrical and plumbing
connections.
If a dishwasher is being installed in this area for the
first time, most of the cabinet work, plumbing, and
electrical has to be done before you move the machine
into place.
NOTE: Cosmetic damage must be reported to the
ASKOdealer within five days fromthedate ofpurchase.
As soon as you unpack the dishwasher, thoroughly
check it for cosmetic damage.
If you are replacing an old dishwasher, you must check
the plumbing connection and wiring before you move
the new dishwasher into place.
Tip Guards
(P/N 8070851)
INTRODUCTION
WHAT YOU NEED

Page3
UNIT DIMENSIONS
US Metric
Measurements Measurements
Height 32-1/4"–34-1/4" 819–870 mm
Width *24" 610 mm
Depth 23-7/16" 596 mm
Weight 104 lb 48 kg
DIMENSIONS
Model D1976CSTM is 23-5/8” (600 mm) wide. See
page 11 for details.
*
The best place for your dishwasher is in the kitchen
near the sink. This makes it easier to connect the water
and drain supply lines.
A built-in dishwasher must be enclosed on the top,
both sides and the back.
The electrical and water supplies should enter through
the area indicated by the shading on the illustration at
right. They should come through the right side of the
machine, a maximum of 2” (50 mm) from the back wall
and 6-1/4” to 8-1/4” (159 to 210 mm) from the floor,
depending on the underneath cabinet height.
Access holes must be round and smooth, and they
should be 1-1/2” to 2” (38 to 50 mm) in diameter.
EUROPEAN INSTALLATIONS
The kick plate supplied with your dishwasher fits a 24"
(610 mm) opening. When using European standard
installation, a 23-1/2” (597 mm) wide toe kick is available
fromyourASKOdealer. (Part numbers: White=8057528-
0; Black=8057528-29.
For a 6” toe kick installation, you will need an extension
toe kick piece. (Part numbers: White=8070121-0;
Black=8070121-29)
PREPARING THE LOCATION
CABINET OPENING
US Metric
Measurements Measurements
Height 32-1/4"–34-1/4" 819–870 mm
Width* 24-1/8”" 613 mm
Depth 23-7/16" 596 mm
The opening width for Model D1976CSTM is 23-3/4”
(603 mm) wide. See page 11 for details.
*

Page4
WARNING! Plumbingconnections mustcomply with
applicablesanitary, safetyand plumbing codesinyour
area.
The machine can be connected to either a hot or cold
water supply. If a cold water supply is used, the washing
times will be longer but the performance will not be
affected.
The dishwasher comes with a 6-foot PEX water supply
line that has a 3/8" NPT female connection.
After determining where the water supply line will enter
under the sink, drill a 1-1/2" to 2” (38 mm to 50 mm)
access hole and run the line to the approximate inlet
valve location shown in the figure below. The water line
inlet valve is on the right rear of the machine.
For service convenience, a shut-off valve (not supplied)
should be installed in the supply line in an easily
accessible location, such as, beneath the sink.
It is important that the water supply line and the shut-off
valve have a sufficient flow volume. At last 3 gallons (12
liters) per minute must be able to pass through the
line. The water pressure should be 18-176 psi.
CORNER INSTALLATION
2” clearance
If the dishwasher is installed in a corner, there must be
a minimum clearance of 2” (50 mm) from the side wall
so the door can open.
EASYINSTALL CONNECTIONS
Drain hose boot
Readyto becutto desired
drain connection. Only
one clamp required.
PEX tubing with 3/8”
compression fitting
PEX tubinghas a95-year
spec life. Fits American
dishwasher water supply
valves.
WATER SUPPLY
(1) Water supply
(2) Water supply valve
(not supplied)
In order to prevent heat damage to the inlet valve, all
solder connections must be made before the water
line is connected to the dishwasher.
WARNING!
WARNING!
Do not use an extension cord for this appliance.
Electrical cord
110-120 volts, 15/20 amp
cord supplied with unit.
INSTALLING THE TIP GUARDS
(OPTIONAL)
When it is not possible to fasten the dishwasher to the
cabinet, you should install tip guards to prevent the
machine from tipping when the door is opened. The tip
guards can be attached either to the floor or the wall.
The tip guards should be mounted behind the machine,
19” (483 mm) apart (measuring center to center) and
18-1/2” (470 mm) from the front of the machine. (Note:
This measurement could vary, depending on the
thickness of the custom panel, if any.)
Tip Guards
(P/N 8070851)
We recommend that you install tip
guards when it isn’t possible to fasten
the dishwasher to the cabinet.
Rear
Be sure to run the PEX tubing through the hole
to sink compartment before moving the
dishwasher into position.
NOTE:

Page5
ASKO provides a 7/8” (22 mm) corregated drain hose
which is connected to the back of the unit to form a high
loop. If additional drain hose is needed, please
purchase an additional ASKO drain hose and joint it to
the provided hose with a 7/8” (22 mm)copper tube.
NOTE: Do not use any fittings anywhere in the drain
line that are less than 7/8" (22 mm) ID.
The access hole for the drain line should be 1-1/2" (38 mm).
The end of the drain line is 1/2” (12
mm), but it is adjustable to 7/8”, 3/4”,
5/8” (22mm, 19 mm, and 16 mm). If
the drain connection is larger than
1/2” (12 mm), you can easily cut the
drain line to fit the connection.
The illustrations to the right show three ways to connect
the drain supply line.
THE HIGH LOOP
The high loop is necessary for
proper draining. Therefore, all
ASKO dishwashers have the drain
hoses attached to the drain pump
and fastened to the top back of the
unit, as illustrated. This gives the
drain hose an automatic high loop,
which is necessary for proper draining. The drain hose
is fastened at the best high loop height with a plastic
zip tie. To eliminate potential drain problems, simply
leave this hose in place.
IMPORTANT THINGS TO
REMEMBER:
♦Failure to provide the proper drain connection height
(minimum of 20" (508 mm) above the bottom of the
dishwasher base) or a 20" (508 mm) high loop will
result in improper drainage, which will damage the
machine.
♦No part of the drain hose should be higher than 35"
(889 mm) from the bottom of the dishwasher.
♦The hose must not be drawn straight to a floor well
or its equivalent because it might function as a
siphon and empty the machine.
♦Thedrainhose canbeextended to amaximum length
of 10 feet (3048 mm). Joints and jointed tubes, if any,
must have a minimum 7/8" (22 mm) ID.
♦If the drain line is going to be connected to a waste
disposer, be sure to remove the knockout or plug
from the fitting on the disposer before connecting
the drain line.
♦Do not use fittings smaller than 7/8” (22 mm);
otherwise the water may not drain properly.
When the installation is ready, open the supply valve
and let the pressure act for a while. Then check that all
connections are tight and there are no leaks.
THREE WAYS TO INSTALL
DRAIN CONNECTIONS
A.)Typical connection to sink plumbing before
trap (high loop drain)
B.)Connectionto air gap then tothetrap
C.)Connection to waste disposer with air gap
NOTE: Don’t forget to remove the knockout
or plug from the disposer fitting.
DRAIN CONNECTIONS

Page6
WARNING! Before working on wiring for any
electrical appliance, be sure the electrical power
has been turned off at the breaker/fuse box.
WARNING! Disconnect electrical power
supply and place a tag at the disconnect switch
indicating that you are working on the circuit.
WARNING! Electrical and grounding
connections must comply with the applicable
portions of the national electrical code and/or
other local electrical codes.
This unit must be grounded to operate properly. It must
be connected to a grounded metal, permanent wiring
system, or an equipment-grounding conductor must
be run with the circuit conductors and connected to the
equipment-grounding terminal or lead of the appliance.
NOTE: Access holes should be 1-1/2” to 2” (38 mm
to 50 mm) in diameter with no sharp edges.
The dishwasher comes with an electrical
cord for 110-120 volts, 15/20 amp supplied.
This cord should be plugged into the 110-
120 volt outlet under the sink.
If the cord is not long enough, or if a hard-wire
installation is needed, follow instructions on page 7.
GROUNDING INSTRUCTIONS
Damage to the dishwasher could occur if it is not
properly grounded.
WARNING! Make sure the water supply line,
drain line and branch circuit wiring do not touch
any exposed terminals of dishwasher wiring.
At this point the styrofoam, plastic wrap, and the wood
pallet (base) should be removed from the dishwasher.
Now is an excellent time to inspect for any shipping
damage. Should you find any damage, you should
report it to your dealer or builder immediately.
Be sure to remove the toe kick and toe kick insulation
which are wrapped in heavy brown paper and packed
inside or on top of the dishwasher.
REMOVING THE ACCESS PANEL
To removetheaccess panel, firstremovethe twoscrews
on each side of the access panel that hold the fill strips
in place. (NOTE: Do not replace these screws.) Next,
remove the two screws underneath the panel that hold
it against the guard plate.
After you have removed all four screws, slide the access
panel down below the two tabs at the top to remove it.
SLIDES FOR REAR LEGS
The unit comes with two white plastic slides for the rear
legs to protect the kitchen floor from being damaged
when you slide the unit into place. The slides simply
snap onto the bottom of the rear legs.
ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS
PREPARING THE DISHWASHER FOR INSTALLATION
WARNING!
Do not use an extension cord for this appliance.
When you replace the panel, be sure to replace
only the screws that attach it to the guard plate.
NOTE:
THE FILL STRIPS
All standard ASKO dishwashers (Models D1706, D1716,
D1776, D1876, D1976) have color-coded fill strips to
finish off the installation. To prevent damage to the
machine, be sure to remove the shipping screws that
secure the fill strips to the access panel. These
screws are to be thrown away. Do not replace them
into the access panel.
WARNING!
Do not screw the fill
strips back to the
lower access panel;
otherwise, the
machine will have to
be uninstalled if
service is necessary.
Lower Access Panel Fill Strip
NOTE: If the cabinet opening is European measure-
ment (23-1/2 inches [597 mm]), remove the fill
strips to fit the dishwasher into the opening.
Protective slides for rear
legs simply snap onto the
bottom of the legs.

Page7
WARNING!
Make sure you put the protective slides on the rear
legsto prevent damaging the floor when you slide the
unit into place (see page 6).
1. Position the machine in front of the cabinet
opening.
2. Make the height adjustment while the dishwasher
is in front of the opening.
3. Pull out the drain hose to ensure there are no sharp
bends.
4. On the bottom rear of the dishwasher there is a
black ziptie around the rubber buffer that holds the
circulation pump in place. Cut the ziptie and remove it.
5. Start to feed water and drain lines and electric cord
(if necessary) into the access hole in the cabinet.
6. Gently slide the unit into the dishwasher opening.
As you do this, feed the drain line into the drain line
and inlet hose into the access hole in the side of
the cabinet. WARNING! Be careful of sharp edges.
If the cord is not long enough, or if a hard-wire
installation is needed, you will need to remove the guard
plate to complete the electrical connection.There are
four 20 torx or flathead screws that hold the guard plate
in place, two on the upper/underneath side and two on
the front.
To remove the guard plate, first remove the toe kick
brackets (see this page). Then remove the two screws
on the upper/underneath side of the guard plate. Next,
remove the two screws from the front side of the guard
plate.
As you slide the unit into place, feed the drain line and
inlet hose into the access hole in the side of the cabinet.
MOVING THE MACHINE INTO PLACE
To remove the toe kick brackets, hold the small metal
spring tab on the outer edge of the base pan toward the
outside of the machine. Continue holding the tab as
you pull straight out on the bracket. (Note: It may be
stubborn because it’s in guide slots on the base pan.)
See page 10 for instructions on how to adjust the toe
kick brackets.
Toe kick bracket
Guard plate
Remove the two
screws on each
side of the guard
plate.
After the screws are removed, grip the bottom of the
guard plate and pull it toward you to remove it. You can
now access the inlet valve, electrical connection, and
drain pump and hose, as illustrated below.
REMOVING THE TOE KICK BRACKETS
REMOVING THE GUARD PLATE

Page8
TESTING FOR LEAKS
1. Turn on the water supply and check for leaks.
2. Turn the power on at breaker/fuse box and test the
dishwasher operation by running a Rinse cycle.
(This should take about four minutes.)
3. Turn off the electrical power and check for leaks
In order to prevent heat damage to the inlet valve, all
solder connections must be made before the water
supply line is connected.
Flush the water supply line prior to connecting it to the
water fill tube.
The unit has a float switch in the base pan to protect
against flooding. If the inlet valve connection is not
seated properly, water may leak into the base pan and
activate the float switch.
It is important that the water supply line and the shut-off
valve have a sufficient flow volume. At last 3 gallons (12
liters) per minute must be able to pass through the
line. The water pressure should be 18-176 psi.
Be sure to run the PEX tubing through the hole
to sink compartment before moving the
dishwasher into position.
NOTE:
Now that all the connections are made and the machine
is in place under the cabinet, you should make the final
height adjustment.
1. You should set the rear foot first. To do this, use a
screwdriver to rotate the
adjusting screw on the
bottom front of the
machine. Turn the screw
clockwise to raise the foot
and anticlockwise to
lower it.
under the dishwasher and sink.
4. Make sure that no kinks have developed in the drain
lines.
If there are no leaks and the dishwasher seems to be
working properly, continue with the installation.
NOTE: When adjusting the unit lower than 33-1/4” (845
mm), the holes on the toe kick will need to be
to be elongated. An accessory toe kick is also
available for this type of installation. Contact
your dealer to order.
2. Using a 1/2” (12 mm)
wrench, adjust the locking
nutsuntilthe machineislevel.
(The machine may have an inclination of 2°
maximum without affecting its performance.)
3. When the feet are properly adjusted, tighten the
locking nuts to the base pan.
CONNECTING THE WATER SUPPLY
ADJUSTING THE LEVELING LEGS
(1) Water supply
(2) Water supply valve
(not supplied)
1. Connect supply cable with
a UL-listed strain relief
bushing (if nonmetallic
cable is to be used).
2. Connectbranch circuit white
lead to white lead on main
terminal block.
WARNING! Before starting this procedure, be sure
the power is turned off at the breaker/fuse box.
CONNECTING THE ELECTRIC CABLE
If the cord is not long enough, or if a hard-wire
installation is needed, follow the steps below to
complete the electrical connection. 4. Connect ground wire to ground on terminal block.
3. Connect branch circuit black lead to brown lead on
main terminal block.
NOTE: When doing a hard-wire installation, you must
remove the supplied power cord.

Page9
After you replace the guard plate (see page 7), you need
to replace the toe kick brackets. While holding the spring
tab on the base pan toward the outside of the machine,
slide the bracket into the slots on the guard plate and
work it between the guide slots on the base pan.
Adjusting the Bracket Depth
You will have to adjust the bracket depth to allow for the
thickness of the toe kick. To do this, first measure the
thickness of the toe kick. Then press the spring tab on
the sides of the base pan toward the outside of the
machine and carefully pull or push the bracket to the
required depth less the thickness of the toe kick.
Adjusting the Toe Kick Height
on D1996FI and D1976CSTM
These models come with two toe kicks. Use the
mounted toe kick for shorter kick areas and both toe
kicks for taller installations.
The toe kick has extended screw slots that allow you to
adjust the height. Position the toe kick so it touches the
floor and tighten the screws.
Once you have the toe kick bracket in place, you can
install the toe kick, as follows:
1. Ifyouhave not doneso,remove the toe kickand felt
insulation from the brown paper packaging.
2. Lay the insulation on the back side of the toe kick to
make sure it fits properly.
3. Peel the adhesive protection strip off the insulation
and press it firmly to the back side of the toe kick,
making sure you don’t cover any slots on the toe
kick.
4. Positioning the notches on the toe kick at the edge
of the access panel, slide the toe kick up behind
the access panel then let it slide to the floor.
5. Screw the toe kick to the toe kick brackets.
Guard plate
INSTALLING THE TOE KICK
REPLACING THE TOE KICK BRACKETS
NOTE:
It’s necessary to fasten the dishwasher to the cabinet
so it won’t tilt when the door is opened or if something
heavy is placed on the door. Use only the stainless
steel screws provided with the machine.
1. Use option A for U.S. or European standard
installations. Use option B only for European
standard installations.
2. Cover the screw heads with the
plastic plugs provided with the
machine.
3. When the machine is properly
attached, check that the feet are
tight against the floor and that the
machine is level.
FASTENING THE DISHWASHER TO THE CABINET
NOTE: When it is not possible to attach the dishwasher
tothecabinet, you shouldinstall tip guards.(See
“Tip Guards” on page 2.)
Option A can be used for U.S. or European
installations. Use option B for European
standard installations only.
NOTE:
Mounting
Screws
Extended screw slots
Makesurethe toe kickbracketis securely inside
the guides on the base pan.

Page10
WARNING!  Before working on any electrical
appliance, be sure the electrical power has been
turned off at the breaker/fuse box.
Refer to the illustration at bottom right for instruction
references.
1. Remove the lower access panel with standard or
20 torx screwdriver.
2. Using needlenose pliers, remove the plastic plugs
around the edges of the access panel and upper
door panel. You may discard the plugs.
3. Using the screws provided with the trim kit, loosely
secure parts A and C to the upper door panel.
4. Slide the upper panel into the trim kit grooves.
5. Tighten the screws holding parts A and C.
6. Secure part B and tighten screws.
7. Loosely screw part E to the lower access panel.
8. Slide the custom panel into trim kit channels and
tighten the screw to part E.
9. Secure part D of the trim kit and tighten the screws.
10. Secure the lower access panel to the dishwasher.
11. Drop the access panel to line up with the lower
holes on the guard plate. (Make sure the exhaust
vent is below the panel. Otherwise, steam from the
vent could eventually damage the panel.)
12. Before you push the dishwasher into the cabinet
opening, test the door to make sure it opens
properly. The door is counter-balanced, so it should
remain in any position. If it doesn’t, you may need
to adjust the door springs (see page 12).
13. Fasten the dishwasher to the cabinet (see page 9).
1/4” Panel Trim Kit
NOTE:
CHANGING THE STANDARD FRONT PANELS
PANEL DIMENSIONS
Models D1706, D1716, D1776, D1876, and D1976
(except the stainless steel models) can accept wood
panels with the use of a 1/4” panel trim kit.
For standard, non-raised panels, use 1/16” (1.6mm) to
1/4” (6 mm) material. For custom raised panels, the
decor trim will accept up to 1/4” (6 mm) flange. The
raised panel can be mounted on a backing sheet cut to
fit as illustrated at right.
Backing sheet or non-raised panel dimensions:
Upper: 23-3/16” w x 21-3/16” h
Lower: 23-3/16” w x 4-3/16” h
Raised portion dimensions:
Upper: 21-3/16” w x 17-7/16” h
Lower: 21-3/16” w x 2-3/16”
INSTALLING THE PANEL
Trim kit part numbers:
White: 8070850-0
Black: 8070850-29
Upper
Panel
21-3/16"
538 mm
23-3/16"
589 mm
1"
25 mm
1"
25 mm
21-3/16"
538 mm
2-1/4"
57 mm
17-7/16"
443 mm
1"
25 mm
Lower Panel
1"
25 mm
21-3/16"
538 mm
23-3/16"
589 mm
1"
25 mm
2-3/16"
56 mm 4-3/16"
106 mm
1"
25 mm
1"
25 mm
Panel Dimensions
The stainless steel panels do not have holes
for custom trim. You have to drill the holes.