Associated Electrics RC12LC User manual

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PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE
YOU BEGIN
Wefeelthatourinstructionmanualsarethebestinthe
hobby.Thisisduetothenumberandqualityofphotosplusthe
written information that explains each assembly. While it is
possible to assemble your kit only from the photos, we do not
recommend this. There is important facts or tips in the written
instructions that will help you to assemble your car for its best
performanceandtopreventanydelaysduetoassemblyerrors.
On road cars, while easier to assemble are more sensitive to
improperadjustments.Soifyouwanttomakeyourcarthebest
assembled car possible you will follow both the photos and
written instructions.
STEP 1 Open each parts bag when the instructions
indicate,notbefore.Thisistohelppreventpartsfromonebag
getting mixed up with parts from another bag. This kind of
mistakewillcostyoutimeandfrustrationwhileassemblingyour
car.
STEP 2 Check each parts bag for supplementary
instructions. Associated is always working on new designs
andmaterialstoimproveourproducts.Thismeansthatwewill
occasionally make updates or changes to our kits. These
changes cannot be made immediately to the manuals, so we
use supplementary instructions to note changes. 1) Inspect
eachbaguponopening it for the first time. Lookforanypieces
of paper than have part and drawings showing what is being
changed. 2) When you do find one, locate the section of the
manual and parts list where these changes apply.3)Note the
parts changes on the parts list then attach the supplement to
the appropriate assembly step in the manual. This will help
prevent delays in looking for the incorrect parts. It will also
reduce the chance of losing time taking something apart that
was assembled incorrectly due to use of the wrong parts.
STEP 3Keepyourpartsseparate.Whilebuildingyourcar
it will be necessary to have more than one parts bag open at a
time.Inorderto prevent confusion we recommend using large
paper plates (especially picnic plates with partitions) to keep
partsfromeachbagspreadoutsothatyoucanfindthemeasily.
Markeachplatewiththebagnumberordescriptionbeforeyou
placethepartsinthem.Whenyouhaveusedallthepartsfrom
one bag. You can then re-label the plate so that it can be used
for another bag.
STEP 4 Additional items needed to operate your car:
❑2 channel R/C, surface frequency, radio system (only one
servo is required). Because of limited space a small size
servo is recommended.
❑Battery pack (6-cell) needs to be assembled into a saddle
pack layout.
❑Battery charger, (we recommend the use of a peak
detection charger).
❑Electronic Speed Control (also referred to as an ESC).
❑R/C electric motor (will accept both stock and modified
motors).
❑Pinion Gear (48 pitch); size to be determined by type and
wind of motor you will be using.
FIRST, A WORD
ABOUT THE NEW RC12LC
CONGRATULATIONS!!Youhavepurchasedthepro-
ductionversionofthecarthatMasamiHirosakausedtowinthe
1996/97 IFMAR 1/12 scale On Road World Championships.
This latest generation of the RC12L series car gives you more
improvements and features to enhance your performance.
Associated started in electric R/C with the original RC12E
whichwonnumerousNationalChampionships.Thisprogressed
into the RC12I which won the very first 1982/83 1/12 scale
IFMAR World Championships held in Anaheim, California. It
thenwonthenext1984/85IFMARWorld Championships held
in Denmark. The RC12L, the next generation, dominated the
1986/87 Las Vegas, Nevada World Championships by taking
1st through 5th as well as Top Qualifier honors. This car was
againusedtowinthe1988/89WorldChampionshipsinBaarn,
Holland.For the 1990/91 World Championships, in Singapore,
weredesignedtheRC12L.TheRC12LWasitwasknown,won
the 1990/91 Worlds and backed that win up by winning the
1992/93WorldChampionshipsinGrandRapids,Michigan.We
thenaddedourDynamicStrutfrontsuspension.Thiswasgiven
the name RC12LS. It was also the car to own until we won the
1996/97 Worlds with your new RC12LC. The designation
RC12LCstands for Cliff Lett who designed the car.
The proven features that come with the RC12LC
include our Dynamic Strut front suspension (with our optional
casterchangefeature),Deltashock,Assoc.IIrearaxleassem-
bly,anddishedonepiecewheels.Thenewrearaxleallowsyou
to change the right wheel without having to readjust the diff
each time. To go with these successful features, Cliff Lett and
therest of ourdesignteamhave relocated thedampenerpivot
post for more consistent performance. You also have damp-
ener inserts to limit roll movement for quicker directional
changes. We added a front suspension cross brace and used
anewfrontsuspensionmaterial.Thismakesthefrontsuspen-
sion more rigid and more precise. The batteries were moved
closertothe centerline, and afiberglassroll over antenna was
addedtothenewlightweightantenna/shockmount.Anewrear
chassis brace and symetrical T-bar were designed and a
graphite T-bar brace was added. It also comes with a new
precision lightweight left rear bulkhead for accurate bearing
alignment. The redesigned upper and lower pod plates along
with the left bulkhead make it easier to install, remove and
solderin the motor.Whatyouend up withisacar that iseasier
and faster to get dialed in to the track conditions. The 1996/97
IFMAR Worlds was the first race for the new 12LC. How did it
fare? In the A-main the 12LC finished in the top five positions
and took seven out of ten places. Your new car will show you
why Associated has won all but one of the 1/12 IFMAR World
Championships ever held!!

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STEP 5 Tools. This kit contains the shock turnbuckle
wrenchandthethreeAllenwrenchesyouwillneedtoassemble
your car. In addition you will need to supply the following tools
and supplies:
❑#2 Phillips screwdriver (#SP-76).
❑Needlenose pliers.
❑Hobby knife, such as an X-acto knife with a #11 pointed
blade.
❑File (double cut, smooth is your best choice)
❑Electrical tape, Associated #6312 clear chassis protective
sheet or similar adhesive insulating material.
❑#242 Blue Loctite or #271 Red Loctite
❑Fiberglass reinforced strapping tape.
❑Drill motor with a #43 (2.3mm) and a #34 (2.8mm) drill bits.
Ifyoucannotfindthesenumbereddrillbitsyoucanusea3/32”
drillbittoreplacethe#43bitanda1/8”drillbittoreplacethe#34
bit.
❑Soldering iron (40 to 50 watts, with a small amount of rosin
(not acid) core 60/40 solder. We have found from experience
that a pencil type soldering iron works better than the more
commonsolderingguns.Whilethegunsgeneratealotofheat,
they have a hard time keeping the heat at the tip.
Your kit can be assembled easier and faster with the
following Associated tools or their equivalents:
❑Allen drivers (straight Allen wrenches with hex shaped
aluminum handles) such as the following Associated items:
#6957 .050”
#6958 1/16”
#6959 3/32”
#6591 2.5mm
❑3/16” nut driver will make installing the aluminum ball ends
and small pattern 4-40 nuts easier and faster (#SP-86)
❑11/32” nut driver for adjusting the nylon diff nut on the rear
axle.
WARNING! We DO NOT recommend the use of a power
screwdrivertoinstallscrewsintothenylonorcompositeparts.
Therotationspeedistohighcausingthescrewstoheatup.This
can cause the screws to break or the screw hole to strip out.
FINAL NOTES: (1) Experienced builders or racers: please
build the car according to the instructions first!! The
RC12LC setup came from our design team. What they have
given you will be remarkably fast right out of the box for most
track conditions. Start with the standard setup. This will give
you a solid performance base to use for comparison for any
changes you will then want to make. If you do not do this you
will have no way of knowing if your changes will actually
improvethecarsperformance.(2)Atthebeginningofeachstep
you will find a box ( ❑ ). When you have finished that step put
a check mark in the box. When you stop for any reason during
assembly it will be easier to find where you need to continue
from. (3) Occasionally an actual size drawing will accom-
panythephototohelpyouidentifycertainparts.Youcanplace
thepartontopofthedrawingtobesureyouhavepickedupthe
correct part. Also you will most likely end up with a few extra
fasteners or parts, so do not worry. WARNING! Only the
drawings at the bottom of the photos are true to scale.
None of the photos are actual size. Even though you may
seedimensionsmarkedonthephotos,the photosarestill
not to scale or actual size.
(4) The following types of special instructions, in ob-
lique will be used throughout the manual:
Racer’s Tip: This is a trick used by some of the
Team Drivers to improve their car’s handling, performance
or maintenance.
Note: Alternate ways to assemble the kit, including
tips for smoothing out difficult assemblies.
WARNING! This alerts you to be careful in order to
prevent damaging the parts, and warns you against using
wrong parts or doing an incorrect assembly that could
damage or reduce the parts performance.
SAVE THIS MANUAL! This manual is more than an
instruction manual. It is also a handy supplement to the Asso-
ciated 1/12 scale catalog. You can use the manual photos to
help identify part numbers and descriptions when ordering
parts. In addition, the manual can be used during a technical
assistance call to our factory if you are having assembly
problems or have any questions.Contact Customer Service
at 714-850-9342.
Please remember, it’s not a race to see how fast you
canputyourcar together, rather, it’s how well youputyourcar
together that will determine how well you race. Please Take
Your Time!
Now clear off your work bench, line up some paper
plates and let’s start!
FRONT SUSPENSION ASSEM-
BLY
❑Figs. 1 & 2 Wenowwanttotakeoutthe#4504.084”
RC12LC Graphite chassis. Look at both sides of the chassis.
Thebottomwillbethesidewiththecountersunkholes.Before
we can assemble the car we need to prepare the chassis by
filingthebatteryslots.Useyourfiletobevelthebatteryslotson
the top of the chassis (so that the edges are at an angle). This
isdonetopreventthebatterycellsfromrestingonasharpedge
which could cut through the battery sleeve (shrink wrap) and
could cause the battery to short out on the chassis.
Ifyou are going toonly run four cellraces you will only
needto file theedgesonthetwoback slotsoneachsideofthe
chassis. If you are going to run six cell as well you will need to
file three slots on each side of the chassis. The final step in
preparing the battery slots will be to file the edges where the
strappingtape,holdingthebatteries,touchesthechassis.Just
round the edges so they cannot cut the tape. Now dip a piece
of #280 or #320 grit wet or dry sandpaper into some water to
smooth all edges of the chassis.
WARNING! Graphite dust can be extremely harm-
ful to your health. For proper safety make sure you are
workinginawellventilatedlocation. Use all proper safety
precautions.Whenyouhavefinished,washoffthechassis
withrunningwateranddryitwithpapertowels.Nowwash
your hands off with soap and cold water to remove the
graphitedust.(Hotwaterwillenlargetheporesofyourskin
and would allow the dust to get into your skin). Carefully

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dispose of the graphite filings or dust.
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
❑Fig. 3 Becausegraphiteconductselectricitysomewhat
likemetal,wehavetotakesomeprecautions.Whatwewantto
doisinsulatethebatteryslotssothebatterycellscannotshort
against the chassis. While the shrink wrap on each cell is an
insulator, we still want to take extra precautions. We need to
wrap the battery slot segments with electrical tape where the
batteries will touch. WARNING!: It is also important to make
surethatnoneofthesolderconnectionscantouchthechassis
anywhere on the car.
Racer’s Tip:Team drivers will use a small piece of our #6312
clear chassis protective coating in place of the electrical tape.
Cuta pieceslightlylargerthanthebatteryareaoneach sideof
the chassis. Apply the adhesive coating over the battery area,
cut out the slots, and then firmly smooth out any trapped air
bubbles.
Fig. 3
❑Fig. 4 Before we start the assembly we need to locate
thetoolsthatcomeinyourkit.InsidetheMasterkitbagyouwill
find the #6950 tool bag. In this bag you will find three Allen
wrenches. The information about each Allen wrench is indi-
catedinthephoto. Nowopenupbag#1.Insideyouwillfindthe
#8416goldcoloredshock/turnbucklewrench.Wewillbeusing
thesesuppliedtoolsmanytimesduringtheassemblyofthekit.
Fig. 4
❑Fig. 5 Go back to bag #1 and remove the #8407 front
upper arm mount parts tree. There are two separate sets of
mountsonthetree.Noticethatonesideofeachmounthastwo
“dome shapes” with holes drilled through the middle. Now
locate the right side mount as shown in the photo. For road
racingremovethe10°mounts.Ifyouaregoingtotryovalracing
you will want to start with the 0° mounts.
Fig. 5
❑Figs. 6, 7 & 8 Frombag#1remove the #8419front
lower suspension arms. These are normally connected by a
molding runner. Also remove four #8409 4-40 x ½” aluminum
shoulder FHMScrews. Go back to the #6950 tool bag we
opened in fig. 4 and remove the 1/16” Allen wrench.
Startwiththerighthandsidesuspensionassembly.To
makesureyouhavethecorrectsuspensionarm,placethearm
infrontofyouwiththeballsocketfacingtotheright.Ontheright
armthebackarmmountingholewillhaveaslantedtopsurface.
Look at the back of the lower arm. You will see two
recessed domes that will match up with the two domes on the

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#8407 upper arm mounts. Place the upper arm mount against
thelowerarmsothedomesinterlock.Makesurethatthe slant
is facing down and to the front as shown in the photo. Secure
themounttothearmwithtwo#84094-40aluminumscrews.Go
aheadandassembletheleftarmandmountfollowingthesame
steps. Note: be sure the Allen wrench is fully seated into the
socket of the #8409 aluminum FHMScrew. If the Allen wrench
is not all the way in it can cause the aluminum screw head to
strip out before it is completely installed.
Fig. 6
Fig. 7
Fig. 8
❑Fig. 9 Also in bag #1 you will find a smaller bag
containingthefour#8417plasticpivotballs.Wewillremovetwo
fornow. Look at the pivot ball. You willsee that one side of the
ballhasashoulder.Beforeweinstallthepivotballslookclosely
atthecenterholefrombothsides. Ifyouseeanyburrsremove
them with a sharp X-acto knife.
Toproperlyinstalltheballinthelowerarmwewantthe
shoulder facing up or on top. Place the pivot ball on the work
bench then place the lower front arm over the pivot ball. Now
snapthearmontotheballusingyourthumb.Thiscantakeafair
amount of effort to accomplish, so you can also place a ¼” nut
driver on the arm over the pivot ball and then use your hand to
impact the tool until it snaps into place. Note: always install
the pivot balls from the bottom of the lower front arm. We
donotrecommendtheuseofplierstoinstallthepivotballs
sincetheycancausetheballstodeform.Nowgoaheadand
install the second pivot ball into the left lower front arm.
Fig. 9
❑Fig. 10 In bag #1 you will find four #8439 8-32 x 5/8”
FHMScrews and four #3323 #8 thick aluminum flat washers.
Lineuptheright arm assembly with the two matchingholeson
theright front ofthe chassis. Installtwo #8439 screwsthrough
the bottom of the chassis. Now place one #3323 aluminum
washerovereach screws on top of thechassisas shown. Use
your #2 Phillips screwdriver to secure the arm to the chassis.
Do not completely tighten the screws just yet. Now repeat the
above steps to install the left arm assembly.
Fig. 10
❑Figs. 11 & 12 Still working with bag #1removethe
#4506aluminumfrontsuspensionbraceandtwo#69174-40x
3/8” BHSScrews. Look closely at each of the upper arm
mounts.Youwillfindaholeineachmountjustabovewherethe
mount attaches to the lower arm (see photo). Place the brace
tube between the arm mounts. Line each end up with the hole
inthe mounts. Now secure the brace tubeto the mountsusing
the two #6917 screws. Go ahead and tighten the screws. Go
back to fig. 9 and tighten the four #8439 screws.

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Fig. 11
Fig. 12
❑Fig. 13 Remove two #8411 nylon upper arm eyelets,
two #8415 upper arm turnbuckles, and two #8405 upper
suspension arms. The upper suspension arms are the same
until they have been assembled. We are still working with bag
#1.Nowwewillstartwiththerightside.Threadoneofthe#8411
nylon eyelets onto one end of the #8415 turnbuckle. Now hold
the center section of the turnbuckle with the #8416 wrench.
While holding the wrench, thread on one of the upper suspen-
sion arms until the threads bottom out.
The photo shows the right arm parts laid out and then
correctly assembled. Look at the outer edge of the upper arm
eyelet. On one side the outer edge is rounded and the other is
more sharp or square edged. Make sure the square edge is
facing down. Now assemble the left arm which will be a mirror
imageoftherightarmbutmakesurethesharporsquareedge
of the eyelet is facing down as well.
Fig. 13
❑Figs. 14 & 15 Remove the two remaining #8417
plastic pivot balls. Place one of the balls on the work bench
shoulder side down. Place the square edge side of the upper
armeyeletoverthepivotball.Againuseyourthumbtosnapthe
eyeletontothepivotball.Ifyouarehavingtroubledoingthisyou
canuseyour¼”nutdrivertomaketheassemblyeasier.Wedo
not recommend using pliers for this installation.
Now locate the two #8413 upper arm hinge pins and
the small bag with the four #8413 PTFE caster shims that will
beinbag#1.Wearegoingtoinstalltherightuppersuspension
armtotherightarmmount.Makesureyouhavetherightupper
arm by checking the eyelet to see that the square edge side is
down. Also make sure that the angled side of the arm is to the
front. Slide the #8413 upper arm hinge pin through the upper
armandarmmount.Makesureoneofthe#8413PTFEcaster
shimsisinstalledoneachsideofthearmmount.Goaheadand
install the left upper suspension arm. Note: Changing the
locationofthePTFEcastershimswillgiveyoudifferentcaster
settings. See tuning section at the end of the manual for more
details.
Fig. 14
Fig. 15
❑Figs. 16 & 17 Next we need the #8421 nylon
steering blocks in bag #1. You will see a line molded into the
steeringblockbetweenthetwoholes.Thisisthetopsideofthe
steering block. The photo will show which is the right and left
steering blocks. The steering blocks were designed to fit both
our 1:12 and 1:10 scale cars. For the one 1:12 scale car we
need to cut the steering block at the mold line as shown. After
you have cut the steering blocks you will want to round the
corners where you cut. You can use your file or sandpaper to
accomplish this.

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Also in bag #1 you will find the #4448 aluminum ball
ends and the #4449 4-40 small aluminum locknuts. Remove
two of each for this step. You will also need to remove the two
#3213 front axles and two #6299 1/8” E-clips. The E-clips are
heldtogetherbywhitetape.Theyaresosmallitiseasiertolook
for the white tape than to look for the E-clips.
Thread one #4448 ball end into each steering block
and then thread the #4449 4-40 small aluminum locknut onto
theendoftheballendthreads.Wewanttheballendontopand
the nut on the bottom of the steering block.
Now take the #6299 E-clips and install one onto one
end of each front axle. We can now push the axle into the
steering block so the E-clip will be on the back side as shown.
Fig. 16
Fig. 17
❑Figs. 18 & 19 Takeoutthetwo#4403kingpins,two
#4114 .018” springs, four #6299 1/8” E-clips, and the eight
#8425steelkingpinshims.Allofthesepartswillalsobeinbag
#1.Firstinstallone#6299E-clipontoeach#4403kingpin.Next
install one of the #4114 springs onto the kingpin and let it rest
ontheE-clip.Wewillstartwiththerightsidearmassemblyand
steeringblock.Pushthekingpinupthroughthepivotballinthe
lowerfrontsuspensionarm.Installthekingpinfromthebottom
ofthepivotarm.Nowinstallthesteeringblockontothekingpin
overthelowersuspensionarm.Checkthattheballendisontop
andtheflatsideofthesteeringblockisonthebottom.Pushthe
steering block down against the lower suspension arm pivot
ball. Finally, align the kingpin with the pivot ball in the upper
suspension arm and push it through.
Place four of the #8425 kingpin shims over the end of
the kingpin on top of the upper arm pivot ball. Now secure the
shims in place with another #6299 1/8” E-clip. Go back and
repeat the process for the left assembly. Note:Check that the
raised shoulder on both the upper and lower pivot balls are
making contact with the steering block.
Fig. 18
Fig. 19
❑Fig. 20Using your thumb, push down onthetopofthe
kingpin so that any free play in the kingpin will be taken up on
the spring side of the kingpin.
Fig. 20

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T-BAR ASSEMBLY
❑Fig. 21 Now we can open bag #2. Start by taking out
the two #4335 plastic pivot sockets. There are two halves to
each socket. Take one upper and lower portion of the pivot
socket. This will become the front pivot socket. Look at the
photo, you will see how much you must trim from each side of
thetwohalves.Weonlyhavetodothisforthefrontpivotsocket.
Fig. 21
❑Figs. 22, 23 & 24 In bag #2 you will find one
#4520.075”fiberglassT-barandone#4522.063”fiberglassT-
bar.The .075" and .063" refer to the thickness of the T-bar. If
youaregoingto be racing on asphalt you willwanttostartwith
the #4522 .063” T-bar. If you are going to race on carpet we
recommendstartingwiththe#4520.075”T-bar.Thereisnotop
or bottom on the T-bar until the pivot sockets have been
installed.
Now remove two #4336 steel pivot balls and eight
#4334 2-56 x 3/16” BHSScrews from the same bag. We will
startwiththefrontpivotsocketassemblywhichwemodifiedin
fig. 21. Look at the lower half of the pivot socket. There is a
raisedportion that will match thehole on the frontof the T-bar.
Placethe socket intotheholeandlineup thetrimmedsidesas
shown. This will leave the tweak screw holes exposed. Now
takeoneofthe#4336steelpivotballsandsnapitintothecenter
ofthelowerpivotsocket.Placetheupperportionoverthesteel
pivot ball. Be sure to line up the trimmed sides on both halves.
Holding the socket parts in place with your fingers, turn the T-
bar and socket parts upside down. Now use your .050” Allen
wrench from your tool bag and four of the #4334 2-56 screws
to secure the socket to the T-bar. This will place the heads of
the screws on the bottom of the T-bar and the socket and ball
parts on top. Note: It is very important to make sure the Allen
wrench is fully seated into the socket portion of the screw or
they will strip out.
Now repeat the above assembly for the second pivot.
For this pivot the ball must pivot freely in the socket while not
being loose. If the ball is not pivoting freely, you can equally
unscrews all four #4434 screws 1/8 to 1/4 turn. However the
bestwaytomaketheballpivotfreelyistoremovethepivotball
andpolish it. You cando this by placingthe ball on along 4-40
screwandsecuringitwitha4-40nut.Youwouldthenmountthe
screwinadrillpress,handdrill,oraDremeltool,thenpolishthe
ballwithcrocusclothor600gritwetordryandpaper.Cleanthe
balloffandreinstallitandcheckthemovement.Keepdoingthis
until the ball pivots freely, but is not loose.
Fig. 22
Fig. 23
Fig. 24
❑Fig. 25 In the same bag you will find two #4436 4-40
x5/16”socketsetscrews.Installthetwosetscrewsintothetwo
holesnext tothefrontpivotsocket asshown.Theholes forthe
set screws are not threaded so take your time when threading
them in. You will again be using your .050” Allen wrench with
these screws.

11
Fig. 25
❑Figs. 26 & 27 Still working with bag #2removethe
#4524graphiteT-barbrace,one#45194-40x9/16”FHSScrew,
one #6915 4-40 x 5/8” FHSScrew, one #4449 4-40 small
aluminum locknut, and the #4515 aluminum dampener center
post. From the bottom of the chassis install the #4519 screw
intothefrontT-barmountingholeandthe#6915screwsintothe
back T-bar mounting hole. Place the T-bar assembly over the
two screws as shown. Now place the #4524 graphite T-bar
braceoverthetwomountingscrews.Threadthe#4449 locknut
ontothefrontmountingscrewtosecurethefrontT-barpivotto
thechassis.Nowtakethe#4515 centerpostandthreaditonto
the #6915 screws coming up through the rear pivot ball. Go
ahead and tighten both pivot balls against the chassis. Note:
Youmaywanttoholdthe#4515aluminumcenterpostwithyour
needlenose pliers while you tighten the #6915 rear mounting
screw.
Fig. 26
Fig. 27
REAR CHASSIS BRACE &
DAMPENER ASSEMBLY
❑Fig. 28 Now find and open bag #3. Start by removing
the two #4442 aluminum chassis brace standoffs and two
#7673 4-40 x 5/16” FHSScrews. You will be using the two
#7673 screws to secure the #4442 standoffs to the back
corners of the chassis.
Fig. 28
❑Figs. 29, 30 & 31 Take out the #4534 graphite
rear chassis brace. Also remove the #4516 plastic dampener
postandone#69174-40x3/8”BHSScrew.Lookatthechassis
brace.Therearetwoholesatthecenterarea.Onealongthebar
portion and the other on a small section protruding from the
center.Securethe plastic dampenerposttotheholein the bar
portion of the brace using the #6917 screw. Use #242 Loctite
to secure the damper post to the screw. This way it cannot
come unthreaded when you remove the top screw in the post
for normal maintenance or adjustments.
Now remove three #6917 4-40 x 5/16” BHSScrews
from bag #3. Place the rear chassis brace on top of the three
aluminum tubes as shown. Line up the three mounting holes
andusethethree#69174-40x5/16”BHSScrewstofastenthe
brace down to the tubes.

12
Fig. 29
Fig. 30
Fig. 31
❑Figs. 32 & 33 Now remove one #4517 dampener
spring, one #4340 plastic dampener washer, and one #8330
black O-ring. Place the #4517 spring over the #4515 plastic
dampener post. Now insert the #8330 O-ring into the center
cavityofthe#4340plasticdampenerwasher.Installtheplastic
dampener washer over the plastic dampener post O-ring side
first.Thiswillleavetheflatsmoothsidefacingup. Racer’sTip:
TeamdriverswillusesomeoftheirdifflubetocoattheBlackO-
rings. This will reduce the friction between the O-ring and the
dampener post improving the car performance. Set the rest of
bag#3 asidefornow.We willcomebacktoitlater. Warning!!:
Makesurethe#6917center screw and the #6915 screw do
not touch when both are tightened up. Contact will allow
the pivot ball to move excessively reducing the perfor-
mance of the T-bar and rear end assembly.
Fig. 32
Fig. 33
REAR END ASSEMBLY
❑Figs. 34 & 35Open bag #4 andremovethe#4532
graphitelowerpodplate,#4536moldedleftsiderearbulkhead,
and three #6292 4-40 x 3/8” FHSScrews. Line the left rear
bulkhead up with the three mounting holes in the lower pod
plate as shown. Use the three #6292 screws to fasten the
bulkhead to the lower pod plate.
Now remove the #4537 right side aluminum motor
mount and two #6292 4-40 x 3/8” FHSScrews. Line the right
side motor bulkhead up with the mounting holes on the lower
pod plate, as shown. Use the two #6292 screws to fasten the
bulkhead to the lower pod plate.
Fig. 34

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Fig. 35
❑Figs. 36 & 37 In the same bag you will find three
#4526 plastic T-bar spacers and three #6292 4-40 x 3/8”
FHSScrews, and three #4449 4-40 small aluminum locknuts.
Forthestandardassemblywewillonlyneedtwoofeach.Install
two#6292screwsin the two outer T-bar mounting holesofthe
lower pod, as shown. Place one of the #4526 plastic T-bar
spacersovereachscrew.Linethescrewsupwiththetwoouter
mounting holes on the back of the T-bar. Now slide the T-bar
over the screws and secure the assembly with the two #4449
4-40smallaluminumlocknuts. Racer’sTip:Youcanstiffenthe
front to rear flex of the T-bar for different conditions. Install the
third #4526 T-bar spacer, #6292 4-40 screw and #4449 4-40
small aluminum locknut into the center hole of the T-bar
mountingholes. Wewilldiscussthisinmoredetailinthetuning
section at the end of the manual.
Fig. 36
Fig. 37
❑Fig. 38 Now remove the #4530 graphite upperdamp-
enerplate, one#4448aluminum ballend,andone#44494-40
smallaluminumlocknut.Layoutthedampenerplateasshown.
Nowinstallthe#4448aluminumballendintothefrontholeand
threadthe#44494-40smallaluminumlocknutontothethreaded
end.Makesuretheballendisupandthecutawaysideistothe
left as shown.
Fig. 38
❑Figs. 39 & 40 Take out two #6919 4-40 x 5/16”
BHSScrews,andone#69174-40x 3/8” BHSScrew. Place the
#4530dampenerplateassemblyontopoftherearpodassem-
bly. The cut away side of the dampener plate will be to the left
or drivers side and the plastic dampener post will be coming
throughthedampener hole as shown. Usethe#6917screwto
securethedampenerplatetotheleftmoldedbulkheadandthe
two #6919 screws to the right side aluminum motor plate as
shown.

14
Fig. 39
Fig. 40
❑Figs. 41, 42 & 43 Now go back and get the
remainder of bag #3 we set aside earlier. Take out one #4340
plasticdampenerwasher, one #8330 black O-ring, one#4517
dampenerspring,one#69204-40x3/16”BHSScrew,andone
#6466 1/32” plastic washer. Push the #8330 O-ring into the
centercavityofthe#4340plasticdampenerwasher.TheTeam
drivers use diff lube on the O-ring to improve the performance
of the dampener system. Now place the plastic dampener
washeroverthedampenerpostsmoothsidedown.Nextinstall
the #4517 dampener spring over the post. Finally insert the
#6920 screw into the #6466 washer and then thread it into the
top of the dampener post.
In the same bag you will find the two #4518 plastic
dampener roll stop inserts. Take them out and look at them so
youwillknowwhattheylooklike.Nowputtheminyourtoolbox.
We will discuss using these later in the tuning section of the
manual. We do not use them for the standard setup.
Fig. 41
Fig. 42
Fig. 43
❑Figs. 44 & 45 Remove the two parts trees that
contains the #4348 zero offset (this one is marked with three
dots), 4349 #1 offset, and #4350 #2 offset rear axle bearing
height adapters. For this kit use the #4350 #2 adapters.
Remove them from the parts tree and insert one adapter into
therightsidealuminummotorbulkhead.Nowinstallthesecond
adapter into the left molded bulkhead. When installed, the
bearing hole offset should be closer to the ground as shown.

15
Fig. 44
Fig. 45
❑Figs. 46 & 47 Go back to the kit master bag and
removethebearingbag.Insidethebearingbagyouwillfindone
#7359 ¼” x 3/8” unflanged ball bearing, four #897 ¼” x
3/8”flangedballbearingsandfour#36561/8”x5/16”unflanged
ballbearings.Taketwo#897bearingsandinsertoneintoeach
#4350 adapter as shown.
Fig. 46
Fig. 47
REAR AXLE ASSEMBLY
❑Fig. 48 Open bag #5 and remove the #4460 75 tooth
48pitchspurgearandthebagcontainingthesix#34321/8”diff
balls.Nowgotothemasterbagandremovethetube of #6636
Associateddifflube.Lookatthecenterofthespurgear.Youwill
see two rings of holes. Use the inner ring of holes and fill each
ofthesixholeswith#6636difflube.Nowpressthe#3432balls
intothesamesixholes.Useyourfingertopushthedifflubethat
pushed out back into the hole.
Fig. 48
❑Fig. 49 Now we can assemble the rear axle. Take out
the#4456Assoc.IIgraphiterearaxle,two#6579Assoc.drive
rings,andthe#4458Assoc.IIrightdiffhubspacer.The#4459
Assoc. II Belleville washer, and the #4185 8-32 nylon locknut
from bag #5. From the bearing bag remove the #7359 ¼” x 3/
8” unflanged ball bearing.

16
Tomaketheassemblyeasier,standtheaxleonendso
thatthethreadedendisfacingup(wehavelaidthepartsdown
tomakethephotoeasiertoshoot). Now take one of the #6579
driverings,putathincoatofdifflubeonitandslipitovertheend
oftheaxle.Centeritonthediffhub.Nextslideonthe#7359ball
bearing. This is followed by the #4460 spur gear and diff balls
we assembled in fig. 48.
Fig. 49
❑Fig. 50 Take the two remaining #897 ¼” x 3/8” flanged
ballbearingsandinstalloneintoeachsideofthe#4458diffhub
spacer.
Fig. 50
❑Figs. 51, 52 & 53 Now install the second #6579
drive ring. This is followed by the #4458 diff hub spacer (with
bearings). Each side of the diff hub spacer is flanged. On one
flangetherearetwothreadedholes.Thiswillbethewheelside.
Slidethediffhubspaceronsotheunthreadedsidegoesonfirst.
Now center this hub onto the #6579 drive ring.
Lookat the #4459Bellevillewasher.Slidethiswasher
over the threaded end of the axle with the raised outer edge
facing out. This will put the load on the inner race of the outer
#897 ball bearing. Finally, thread on the #4185 8-32 nylon
locknutandsnugit down. Fig. 51 shows the #4458withoutthe
#897bearingsfromfig.50installed.Wewilladjustthediffatthe
end of the assembly manual. Go ahead and set aside the four
#3656ball bearingsthatremaininthe bearingbag.Wewill not
need them until later in the manual.
Go back to bag #5 and remove the #8321 aluminum
rear axle spacer (fig. 52). One side of the axle spacer has a
raisedlip.Slidetheaxlespaceroverthegraphiteportionofthe
axlewiththeraisedlipfacingawayfromthediffassembly.Now
taketheaxleassemblyandinstallitintotherearpodassembly
from the right or passenger side. Slide the axle through the
bearingintherightmotorplateandthenoutthroughthebearing
in the left bulkhead.
Fig. 51
Fig. 52
Fig. 53
❑Figs. 54 & 55Removethe#4540leftwheelhuband
the #4436 4-40 x 5/16” socket set screw (bag #5). Thread the
setscrewintotheleftwheelhub.Lookatthewheelhub.Youwill
seethatonesidehasalargerraisedcircularareaandtheother
isasmallercircularareathatisbeveledontheouteredge.Now
slide the wheel hub onto the left side of the rear axle. We want
thesmallercircularside to go on first. Seat thehubagainstthe
bearingandtightenthesetscrew.Donotforcethehubagainst
the bearing; we want to have a couple of thousandths of end
playontheaxle.Theonlyscrewsremaininginbag#5willbethe
four #6932 4-40 x 5/16” SHCScrews that are for mounting the
rear wheels. Set these aside; we will use them later.

17
Fig. 54
Fig. 55
SHOCK ASSEMBLY
❑Figs. 56 & 57 Open bag #6, the shock bag, and
remove the #4511 molded front shock/antenna mount, one
#4448 aluminum ball end, and two #7673 4-40 x 5/16”
FHSScrews.Lookcloselyatthe#4511shock/antennamount.
Oneside is flat.This will bethe bottom ofthe mount. Nowlook
at the top. One side is larger than the other. Thread the #4448
aluminumballendintothesmallside.Nowgotothemasterbag
andremove the#4510fiberglassantenna rod.Theplasticend
cap will already be installed. Push the exposed end of the
antennarodintotheholeinthelargesideoftheshock/antenna
mount. InfrontoftheT-baryouwillseethetwomountingholes
for the shock/antenna mount. Use the two #7673 4-40 screws
from the bottom of the chassis to secure the mount to the
chassis.
Fig. 56
Fig. 57
❑Figs. 58, 59 & 60 Now we can begin assembly
of the Delta shock. Note:Associated does not have individual
replacement parts for the Delta shock, unless you see an
Associated part number indicated in the photos and written
instructions. We will start by removing the #4445 small red O-
ring,theDeltashockpiston/shaftassemblyandthesmallbrass
washer.Slidethe#4445O-ringontothepiston/shaftassembly
followed by the brass washer. Push them down against the
shockpiston.NextremovetheDeltaaluminumshockbody,the
black nylon spring adjusting collar and one #6274 plastic ball
end cup from bag #6. Thread the black nylon spring adjusting
collar onto the shock body. Make sure the hex portion is away
fromthe large end of the shock body.Thread it onjust enough
for all the threads on the adjusting collar to be on the shock
body.Nowthreadthe#6274plasticballendcupontothesmall
threaded nipple of the shock body. Again thread it down to the
end of the threads.
Fromthesamebagremovetheblackplasticshockend
capandtheshockinternalspring.Lookattheplasticshockend
cap. If your cap has any flashing on the side away from the
threads it must be trimmed off flush as shown in fig. 60. Now
insert the internal spring into the end of the plastic end cap.

18
Fig. 58
Fig. 59
Fig. 60
❑Figs. 61, 62 & 63 From the master kit bag
remove the bottle of #5415 20 weight shock oil. Now hold the
shockbody at a slight angle. Slowly add shock oil to the body.
Lettheoilrundowntheinsidewalloftheshockbodytoprevent
air bubbles. Fill the shock body with oil to the BOTTOM of the
threads.Besuretokeeptheshockuprightaftertheoilhasbeen
added. Note:We donotrecommendtheuseof Siliconeshock
oil in the Delta shock. The shock volume is to small to use
Silicone oil.
Pick up the shock piston/shaft assembly and slowly
push it down into the shock body. Be careful not to create any
air bubbles or lose any oil. Now slide the shock internal spring
and black plastic end cap over the end of the shock shaft.
Slowly screw the plastic end cap into the shock body
two turns. Now we must bleed the shock. THIS IS THE MOST
IMPORTANT PART OF THE SHOCK ASSEMBLY. It will take
severalminutes.Pushtheshockshaftinveryslowly.Wewant
theshafttogoallthewayinandtouchthebottomoftheshock.
If there is too much oil in the shock the shaft will not go all the
waydown. If you findthere is too muchoil in the shockyou will
needtobleedsomeout.Todothisunscrewthecap.Nowslowly
pushtheshockshaftallthewaydown.Youcannowthreadthe
plasticendcapbackintwothreads.Rechecktheshockpiston
travel.Ifitisstillnotrightrepeattheprocess.IfeverythingisOK
threadtheplasticendcapallthewaydown. WARNING!Donot
use a wrench! Nowdoafinalrechecktomakesuretheshock
shaftgoesallthewaydown.Ifnotreadjustasindicatedabove.
We want the shaft to go all the way in and feel smooth but the
shaft should also come out all the way by itself. Now move the
shaft in and out. If you feel any small jerky motions, you have
air inside the shock and you will have to add oil. Do not try to
rush this job. When this is accomplished the shock is correctly
assembled.
Fig. 61
Fig. 62
Fig. 63
❑Figs. 64 & 65 Nowwecanremovethe#4446Delta
shockspring,thealuminumshockshaftendcap,one#69514-
40x1/8”socketsetscrew,andone#6274plasticballendcup.
We can start by threading the #6951 set screw into the shock
shaft end cap. Then we need to thread the #6274 plastic ball
endcupallthewayontothenippleofthe aluminumshockshaft
end cap.
Slidethespringontotheshockbodyanddownagainst
the spring adjust collar. While holding the spring collapsed,
slide the aluminum shock shaft end cap onto the shock shaft
and securely tighten the #6951 set screw against the shaft.
Now go ahead and tighten the spring adjust collar all the way
down. Fig. 65 shows the completed shock assembly.

19
Fig. 64
Fig. 65
❑Fig. 66Nowattachtheshocktothealuminumballends
that are located on the shock/antenna mount and the rear
dampenerplate.Makesurethatthespringadjustingnutsideof
the shock is closer to the shock/antenna mount.
Fig. 66
BODY MOUNT ASSEMBLY
❑Fig. 67 Openbag#7.Wewillstartbyinstallingtherear
bodymounts.Removetwo#4513rearmounts,two#69174-40
x 3/8” BHSScrews, two #7320 nylon body washers, and four
#6332 body clips. Now we install the rear mounts on the ends
of the rear chassis brace using the two #6917 4-40 screws.
Place the body mount on top of the chassis brace and thread
the #6917 screw in from the bottom. Go ahead and install the
otherside.Makesuretheholes in the mounts point across the
chassis.Fornowinstallonebodyclipinthebottomholeofeach
rear body mount. Now slide the #7320 body washers over the
rearmountssothattheyrestonthebodyclips.Installasecond
body clip into each mount over the body washer. Right now it
does not matter which hole.
Fig. 67
❑Fig. 68Nowremovetwo#3320frontbodymounts,two
#3324 8-32 x ½” aluminum FHMScrews, and two #3323 #8
thick aluminum flat washers. Install the two #3324 screws
throughthebottomofthechassisasshown.Slidethe#3323#8
thick washer over the screws and thread on the #3320 front
bodymounts.Lineuptheholesinthebodymountssotheypoint
acrossthechassisjustliketherearmounts. Racer’sTip:Itcan
behardtoholdthebodymountswhentheyarebeingtightened
down.Togiveyousomethingtoholdontoyoucaneitherinsert
abodycliporyour.050”Allenwrenchintothehole.Thiswillhelp
to prevent the body mount from turning as you are tightening
down the screws. Go ahead and install the two remaining
#6332 body clips into the front mounts.
Fig. 68
MOTOR ASSEMBLY &
INSTALLATION
❑Fig. 69 Your kit does not come with a motor or pinion
gear,soifyouhavenotpickedoneoutyetnowisthetimetodo
so.WerecommendReedymotorsforboth stock and modified
classracing.ReedyMotorshavewonseventeenWorldCham-
pionshiptitles.Thisismorethanallothermotormanufacturers
combined. The major portion of all of our electric World and

20
Nationaltitleswere also won with Reedymotors.Ifyouarenot
surewhich motor togetcheckwithyourlocal dealeroryouare
welcometocontactAssociatedat714-850-9342andwewilldo
our best to assist you.
Wewillstartbyinstallingthecapacitorsontothemotor.
Some motors come with one or two capacitors installed. We
wanttoendupwithatotalofthree.Thefollowingdrawingsshow
the more common soldering locations for both stock and
modified motors. Please check your speed control manual to
make sure you have the right type and quantity of capacitors.
Most speed controls use .1mfd (micro farad) capacitors rated
at 25 volts. STOCK MOTORS
front rear
MODIFIED MOTORS
front rear
Fig. 69
❑Figs. 70, 71, 72 & 73 Inthemasterkit bagyou
willfindthesmallbagthatcontainsthetwo#65153mmx10mm
gold colored SHCScrews, and two #7337 gold colored steel
washers. Slide one of the #7337 washers onto each screw.
Now turn the chassis up on it’s right side. Pick up your motor
andinsertitthroughthelowerpodplateandplaceitagainstthe
motorplate,shaftendfirst.Nowturnthecarbackover.Lineup
the mounting holes in the motor with the motor adjusting slots
in the motor plate. Use the two #6515 screws to secure the
motor to the motor plate. Leave the screws loose for now.
Locate the pinion you chose to use with your motor choice.
Insert the pinion set screw into the pinion and then slide the
pinionontothemotorshaft.Makesurethesetscrewsideofthe
pinion goes onto the shaft first. Rotate the pinion until the set
screw is lined up over the flat portion of the motor shaft. Now
checkthealignmentofthepiniongearwiththespurgear.Make
sure you have full contact across the face of each gear. Go
aheadandsecurethepiniongearwhenyouhaveachievedthis.
Fig. 70
Fig. 71
Fig. 72

21
Fig. 73
❑Fig. 74 Now we need to set the gear mesh. This is
accomplished by moving the motor forward or back. This
moves the pinion gear closer to or further away from the spur
gear.Whatwewanttoaccomplishistogetthemetalpiniongear
as close to the spur gear as possible, but without binding the
gears.Theeasiestwaytocheckthisistoputyourfingeronthe
nylon spur gear. See if you can rock the spur gear teeth back
andforth(lightly)betweenthepiniongearteethwithoutmaking
the pinion gear move. We want the gears meshed as close as
possiblebutstillhavetheabilitytorockthespurgear.Whenyou
have the spacing correct you can tighten down the two #6515
3mmscrews.Nowrecheckthegearmeshtomakesurenothing
moved when you tightened down the screws. It is important to
keep in mind that a tight gear mesh will result in a high power
loss.Aloosegearmeshcanresultinstrippingoffthespurgear
teeth.Sotakeyourtime. WARNING!Thegoldcoloredmotor
screws are metric. The coloring was done to prevent
mixing up the motor screws with the standard black 4-40
screwsusedintherestofthekit.Accidentallyusingthe4-
40screwsin the motor willstripoutthe mounting holes in
the motor can. This damage to the motor can cannot be
corrected except by replacing the motor.
Fig. 74
STEERING SERVO & TIE-ROD
ASSEMBLY
Most radio systems come with standard medium size
servos. Because of space limitations a medium servo will not
fit. The stock servo mounting holes will accept the following
servos that we have been able to test.
Airtronics Futaba
94143 S-32H/S-32SH
94144 S-132H/S132SH
94145 S-9601
94831
If you have a servo not listed here, make sure it fits
before you try to install it. Other servos may fit, but also may
require drilling new mounting holes in the chassis.
Note: We only supply one servo saver with the kit.
Asarandom choicewehaveincludedtheAirtronicsservo
saver. If you have a Futaba servo or other brand you will
have to purchase the correct servo saver.
❑Figs. 75 & 76 Gobackand takeoutbag#1 thatwe
setaside early in our assembly. From thisbag remove thetwo
#8435 molded steering servo mounting blocks. The drawing
below shows which holes to use with the different size servos.
Now determine which mounting holes are correct for your
servo. Take out your drill motor and #43 drill bit. (Remember if
youcouldnotfinda#43drillbita1/8”bitwillworkifyouarevery
careful).Drillthecorrecttwoholesineachmountforyourservo.
Makesuretheholeisperpendiculartothemountingfaceofthe
servo mounting block.
Next remove the #3760 Airtronics servo saver, two
#4448 aluminum ball ends, and two #4449 4-40 small alumi-
num locknuts (also in bag #1). Please remember if you have a
Futabaoranotherbrandofservoyouwillhavetopurchasethe
correct servo saver. The photo shows the eight holes in the
servosaver.You will need to drilloutthetoptwoholes(one on
each side). We want the balls to be as close to the servo horn

22
pivotpointaspossible.Useyour#34drillbit,oryour3/32”ifyou
cannotfinda#34bit.Afteryou havedrilledouttheholesinstall
thetwo#4448ballendsintotheservosaverandthreadthetwo
#4449 locknuts onto the ends of the threads. WARNING! The
ball ends should just be able to slide through without
threading. The holes are close enough to the edge of the
servosaverthey could crack throughiftheball ends were
threaded in.
Fig. 75
Fig. 76
❑Figs. 77, 78 & 79 Remove the four #4145 4-40
x 5/16” aluminum SHCScrews and four #7337 servo washers
(smallgoldcolored)frombag#1.Usethe#4145screwsandthe
#7337washerstosecurethetwo#8435servomountingblocks
to the servo.
Nowremovethestockservohorn,ifonecameonyour
servo, and install the servo saver. We want the servo saver to
be pointing down. Now check the throw of the servo saver in
both directions. If it does not have the same travel in both
directions, remove the servo saver and rotate it's starting
positiononeormoresplinesandthenreinstallit.Goaheadand
secure the servo saver with the stock servo horn screw (for
metalgearservos)orthescrewthatcamewiththeservosaver.
With the servo output shaft facing you, make sure the output
shaftittoyourrightside.Yourcompletedservoshouldlooklike
fig. 79.
Fig. 77
Fig. 78
Fig. 79
❑Fig. 80 In bag #1 you will find two #6292 4-40 x 3/8”
FHSScrews. We will use these to secure the servo mounts to
thechassis.Theholesformountingtheservotothechassisare
spacedsothatthemostpopularAirtronicsorFutabaservoswill
fit.Youmayhavetoadjust the placement of the #4145 screws
inthemounting locations butthisisallthatshould be required.
Ifyouarerunningadifferentbrandofservoyoumayhavetodrill
new holes if the existing ones do not line up correctly. Use the
two#6292screwstosecuretheservotothechassisasshown.

23
Fig. 80
❑Figs. 81 & 82 Now we need to take out the two
#4404turnbucklesandfour#6274plasticballendcups.Screw
one#6274plasticballendcupontotheendofeachturnbuckle
evenly.Theturnbuckleshavelefthandthreadsononeendand
right hand threads on the other end. This means the ball end
cups will thread on in opposite directions. Adjust the ball end
cupsuntilyoureach anadjustedlengthofabout 23/16”(about
55.5mm or 2.18”). All measurements are done from the
centeroftheballcupholetothecenteroftheoppositeball
cup hole. Because the servos may place the output shaft in
slightlydifferentpositionsyouwillhavetofinetunethefronttoe-
in after everything is installed. Notice the difference in the
direction the ball cups face on opposite ends of the same
turnbuckle.Alsotherightandleftturnbuckles will be facing ins
opposite directions as shown in fig. 81.
Snap the assembled turnbuckles onto the steering
block ball ends and the servo saver ball ends. It will be best to
dothis with your needlenose pliers.Remember there is aright
anda left hand turnbuckle.You can adjust thefront toe-in now
or wait until the final adjustment section at the back of the
manual.
Fig. 81
Fig. 82
❑Fig. 83 Yourcompletedfront suspensionwithsteering
servo should look like this.
Fig. 83
BATTERY ASSEMBLY &
INSTALLATION
YournewRC12LCissetuptorunfourorsixcellsaddle
type battery packs. Some companies offer these in pre-as-
sembled packs but most people will have to assemble their
own. The following steps will show you the correct way to
assemble a six cell saddle type battery pack if you do not
already know how.
❑Figs. 84 & 85 Make sure you use ROSIN core
solder,thepreferredbeingthemorepopular60/40variety.DO
NOT use acid core solder. This can damage your electrical
components and connections. Fig. 84 shows the right or
passengers side of the battery pack. Fig. 85 shows the left or
drivers side view of the same battery pack. The cells are
soldered in series. This means the positive end of the first cell
will be soldered to the negative end of the second cell, and its
positiveendbesolderedtothenegativeendofthethirdcelland
soon.Inbetweenthethirdandfourthcelltheconnectionwillbe
madebyajumperwire.Thiswirehastobelongenoughtoreach
acrossthe gap betweenthe slots inthe chassis andto be able
to clear the T-bar. Normally we use 16 or 14 gage wire for this
connection.