Avon Prindle 15 User manual

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INTRODUCTION
This owner's manual
is
provided to ease assembly,
maintenance
and
use of your Prindle
Catamaran
. We
believe these instructions portray the simplest methods.
Do
it
our way the first time
and
learn from
us.
Then, if
you discover a bettermethod, feel free totell us
about
it
using the
reader
commentform enclosed. You may
see
your idea
appear
in
the
next edition. We
are
sure you
will
enjoy your Prindle Catamaran
and
hope
that this
manual
will
make your enjoyment easier
to
come
by.
Make sure
to
join
the
PrindleCassAssociation-it's
fun and it's FREE to any ownerof a Prindle
Catamaran
residing
in
the United States. A
$15.00
annual fee
is
charged for
all
other
areas. You
will
receive
the
Prindle-
letter,
our
Class publication every
other
month. This
newsletter contains feature articles, news
and
results of
regattas, photographs, timely tuning tips, special an-
nouncements
and
contests. As a
member
ofthe Prindle
Class Association you
will
also be entitled to
enter
and
participate
in
all
of our Class sanctioned regattas.
One
design racing begins at the local fleet level
leading to regional qualifying regattas
and
culminates
with the Annual National Championship Regattas held
in
a different region
each
year. Even if you are not a
racer, join the PrindleFleet
in
yourarea.
Our
fleets have
held such fun events as watermelon hunts, hull flying
contests, group cruises, Prindle barge picnics
and
clinics. It's much more fun to
share
the joy of sailing a
Prindle Catamaran. Ifa fleet does not exist
in
YQur
area
-start one!
All
you
need
is
five
enthusiastic owners!
Make sure your dealer
fills
out
and
submits
your
warranty card as this not only validates your warranty,
but
it
will
also automatically registeryouas a
member
of
the Prindle Class Association.
If
you have purchased a
used Prindle
Catamaran
please
send
us your sail
and
hull numbers as well as your complete address. Make
sure to notify us when you move too,
the
Prindleletter
does not get forwarded.
Keep
in
touch. We love to
hear
from
our
owners!
Surfglas, Inc.
1810
E.
Borchard Avenue
Santa Ana, California
92105
CAUTIONU CAUTION!! CAUTION!!
DANGER!I
EXTREME CAUTION MUST BE
OBSERVED WHEN LAUNCHING
AND
SAILING NEAR OVERHEAD WIRES.
A MAST NEAR A WIRE COULD
BE FATAL!
WARN YOUR FELLOW SAILORSI
CAUTION!! CAUTION!! CAUTION!!
CONTENTS
Page
SECTION I: ASSEMBLY 3
Preparation 3
Crossbars 3
Trampoline 4
Rudder system 7
Castings 7
Tiller Crossbar 7
Tiller extension 8
Rudder blades 8
Rudder lock bolt 8
Adjusting helm 8
Rudder Alignment 9
Operation of rudder system 9
Mast and Rigging 10
Masthead 10
Spreaders
11
Diamond wires
11
Mast rotator 12
Masthorn 12
Shrouds
and
trapeze wires 13
Forestay and jib halyard 13
Main halyard
14
Raising the Mast
14
Diamond wires 17
Salls
and
Battens 18
Hoisting the mainsail 19
Boom
21
Outhaul
21
Mast rotator
21
Downhaul
21
Malnsheet and traveler
22
Jib
sheet
Jam
preventor
25
Righting line
25
Tightening
rig
tension
25
SECTION
II
: SAILING
26
Sail Trim
To
weather
26
Reaching
27
Downwind
27
Downhaul systems
27
Trapezing
Lacing the harness
27
Trapeze positioning
28
launching
Onshore
29
Offshore
29
Tacking
30
Jibing
31
Balance 32
Righting 32
Reefing
34
SECTION Ill: AFTER SAILING 35
loosening
rig
35
lowering
salls 35
Trallerlng
37
SECTION
IV:
MAINTENANCE 39
Dolphin Striker 39
Battens 40
Foam/fiberglass battens 40
General
Ma
intenance Tips 40
Hulls 40
Rudders 40
Sails
41
SECTION
V:
TUNING FOR PERFORMANCE
41
Mast Rake
41
Mast Rotation
41
Barberhauler
41
SECTION
Vl
:SUPPLEMENTAL INFORMATION
Major parts of a boat
42
Glossary of Terms
43
Knot Illustrations 44
READER'S COMMENT FORM
47

PRINDLE CATAMARAN OWNER'S MANUAL
Section
I:
ASSEMBLY
PREPARATION
Tools needed:
vi
large screwdriver
vi pliers
vi
needle-nose pliers
vi
1/2"
offset wrench
vi
combination
1/2"
&
9/16"
box-end wrench
vi
adjustable wrench
vi
masking or duct
tape
vi
silicone sealant
Your Prindle
Catamaran
comes packaged
in
two
hull containers,
one
large hardware box
and
one
mast
box.
Place the two hull containers approximately 5 feet
apartwith stapled seams at the
top
ofthe cartons facing
each other. This
will
insure that both hulls
will
be facing
the same direction. .
Open
the hull containers. Leave
the
hulls standing
on the cardboard supports.
Open
the
hardware box
and
familiarize yourself
with
the
major parts of
your
boat.
The
contents of
the
hardware box should include:
boom
battens
rear
crossbar
front crossbar
sails
trampoline
rudder
box
rigging box
tiller crossbar
tiller extension
Open
the
rigging box.
The
contents
will
be listed
on
the
sheet
enclosed.
CROSSBARS
Remove
rubber
plugs from hulls. Lay both the front
and
rear crossbars
on
the
hulls with
the
outside edges
even with
the
outside edges of hulls.
The
curf(groove)
on the front crossbarshould face aft
and
the
curf
on
the
back crossbar should face forward.
\
To
attach inside bolts on the front crossbar, insert
5/16"
hex
head
bolt with washer into inboard hole
in
-3-

crossbar
and
through the bolt hole
in
the deck. Put
some silicone sealant
on
your forefinger
and
reach
through the hatch to put
the
sealant
on
the boltwhere
it
enters the hull. Attach lock nut
and
flat washer to bolt
inside hull using
1/2"
box-end wrench.
If
you cannot
reach the bolt, tape the nut to the wrench. Thread nut
snugly
to
hull.
Do
not tighten until all bolts are snug.
To attach inside bolts
on
the rear crossbar, insert
one
ofthe
5/16"
flat
head
screws through
the
inboard
hole of the rear crossbar
and
bolt hole in deck pocket.
Put a
flat
washer and lock nut onto the bolt. You may
find that taping the nut washer ontoa wrench
is
easiest.
Tighten loosely using a screwdriver on top of screw.
To attach outside bolts
on
both crossbars, insert
5/16"
hex head bolt with washer through crossbar
and
deck. Insert through 6" stainless steel bar which
fits
under the deck. Hand tighten. Repeat procedure
on
all
outside bolts.
Before tightening down these 8 bolts, make sure
the front crossbar sits
in
the groove without voids
between
it
and the deck. Tighten
all
bolts down being
careful
not
to
overtighten the outside bolts
on
the
rear
crossbar. Leverage provided
by
a 6" long wrench
is
sufficient for proper tightening.
Insert rubber plugs into holes
in
hulls.
TRAMPOLINE
From the port hull, insert forward
and
rear edges of
trampoline
in
curls
on
crossbars.
The
rear edge has two
rows of grommets.
Feed trampoline across boat
by
alternately pulling
each edge.
-4-

Tie a figure eight knot
in
the
end
of side lacing line
(1/8"
x 11')
and
begin lacing side of trampoline
beginning at the forward slot. Lace line up through
deck, through forward loop
and
back down through
deck. Proceed aft
and
tie off end. Follow same
procedure for
other
side of trampoline.
Tighten each side
by
using a pair of pliers
or
vice
grips. Start tightening from the front
and
move
to
the
rear. Be sure to get trampoline centered
on
boat
by
lining up the grommet nearest the front crossbar with
the center of the mast step. Trim
and
burn excess line.
Save for use later.
Lace up the back of the trampoline with
1/4"
lacing
lines
lOY.!
feet long. Begin
by
tieing a double overhand
knot
in
one
end of each line and
thread
through rear
grommets, starting up through the rear outside corner
grommet
on
each side.
-5-
Stand
at
the
back of the boat
and
tighten lines
by
bracingyourfoot against
the
rear crossbarfor leverage.
Pull as tight as possible. Tie off lines
under
trampoline.
Do not trim excess line as this leaves somethingto hold
when retightening tramp.
Completed rear lacing
Cut each of the extra scrap lengths of
1/8"
side lace
line into
8"
pieces. You
will
need
two pieces for single
trapeze
and
4 pieces for double trapeze. Fold line
in
half
and
lace through block.

Tie the block onto the side trampoline tab using a
square knot. Use tab just forward of hatch for single
trapeze and tabs just forward and aft of hatch for
double trapeze.
Slip tails of line
under
tab to hide
and
keep knot
from loosening. Blocks should stand straight up.
Lead shock cord through block, down through
grommet
by
hatch,
and
up through grommet
and
block
on
opposite side of tramp. Secure
end
until needed
later.
Attach a
3/16"
shackle ontoeach jib bridle wire. Be
sure pin handle
is
facing up
so
that
it
does not scratch
trampoline.
Tie
3/16"
x 6' line to
one
of the shackles and lead
the other
end
through
one
set of double grommets at
center of tramp.
Using a truckers hitch, tie the line to the
3/16"
shackle
on
opposite jib bridle wire. Pull line as tight as
possible
and
tie off using a row of half hitches.
-6-

Attach jib blocks to thimble at
end
of jib bridle wire
(not shackle) using
3/16"
shackle. Be
sure
the
jaws of
cleat face inboard.
Thread
5/16"
x 33' jib
sheet
line
by
tieing off
one
end
to jib block with a bowline.
Thread
through small jib clew blocks, through cleat
on
jib
block, across tramp
and
through opposite jib block
in
opposite direction. Jib
sheet
should be
one
continuous
line.
Hiking straps
on
trampoline are adjustable for
personal comfort. People with long legs use the
inboard loop. Tie off
onto
a grommet
at
rear of tramp.
-7-
RUDDER SYSTEM
Open
rudder
box,
it
should
contain: left & right
rudder
castings with tiller arms
and
complete workings
installed
and
2
rudder
blades with lock pins attached.
Castings
To
install
rudder
casting
onto
transom,
make
sure
Prindle insignia
is
on
outboard
side.
Remove
cotter key
and
pintel from casting. Line
up
casting with
gudgeons
on
transom
and
reinsert pintel
through
gudgeons
and
casting.
Tiller
crossbar
To
attach tiller crossbar to tiller arms, remove
1/4"
bolt, washer,
and
lock
nut
from
end
of tiller arm. Place
tiller crossbar over tillers with large hole at
end
facing
up
and
end
cap
pop
rivet facing af
t.
Drop
1/4
" bolt
down through crossbar, putting washer between tiller

crossbar
and
tiller arm. Insert
1/4"
bolt through hole
in
tiller arm
and
put lock nut on end. Make sure lines
inside tiller go
on
eitherside of bolt, do not cross them.
Do not put
the
nut
on
the
bolt
at
adjuster end of
crossbar until the rudders have been aligned
(in-
structions later).
Tiller
extension
Remove locknut from
end
oftiller extension. Attach
extension to tiller crossbar
and
reattach locknut. Tiller
extension should be able to touch trampoline easily. If
it
does not, the tiller crossbar has
been
installed
backwards.
Rudder
blades
To instaJi rudder blades into
rudder
castings, untie
ends of downhaul
and
uphaullines
in
castings but DO
NOT UNLACE. Remove
1/4"
bolt with locknut. Place
rudder blade between casting with lock pin forward.
-8-
Reinsert
1/4"
bolt through casting
and
1/4"
hole
in
rudder
blade. Replace locknut
and
tighten until
rudder
will
just
fall
by itself. Do not overtighten
as
this
will
restrict
rudder
movement, too loose
and
rudder
will
be
sloppy
in
casting. Thread downhaul
and
uphaullines
into
rudder
blade
and
tie off ends with a figure eight
knot. Make sure the ends
do
not extend beyond the
edge of blade. Follow
same
procedure
on
both blades.
Rudder
lock
bolt
The
rudder
lock bolt
is
on
the
forward
edge
of each
rudder
blade.
It
is
necessary to adjust this bolt
to
obtain
proper
helm. Making
the
bolt longer produces more
weather helm (heavy steering)
and
shortening
the
bolt
decreases
weather
helm (easier steering).
Adjusting
helm
We
recommend
the following
method
for adjusting
the rudders before the boat
is
sailed.
Place
boat
so
there
is
clearance to lower rudders

and
lock down. Take a short batten
or
yardstick
and
lay
the straight edge flush against the transom. Adjust
the
lock bolt so that the forward bottom
edge
of
the
rudder
is
about1/2" aft of the forward edge ofthe batten. (Pull
rudder back lightly to pull
out
any slop.)
1/2"
aft
is
a
good starting point, further adjustment may be necessary
for personal preference.
Note: As the mast
is
raked aft, the rudders must be
raked forward to balance helm.
Rudder
alignment
Lock both rudders down. Measure 22"
up
the
leading edge of rudders
and
mark this measurement.
Do
the same
on
the trailing edges.
Tum
the rudders so they
are
pointing down the hull
as
if
sailing straight ahead.
Measure from the centerline of the front edge of
one rudder blade(22" up) to the centerline of the front
edge of the
other
blade. Do the
same
with the trailing
edges.
-9-
If the distance between the trailing edges
is
greater
than
that
of
the
front edges; lengthen the tiller adjuster
by unscrewing
it
.
If
the
distance between
the
front edges
is
greater
than
that
of
the
trailing edges;
shorten
the tiller adjuster
by screwing
it
in.
One
complete
tum
is
1/16
of
an inch.
Attach adjuster
end
of tiller crossbar to tiller.
Example: If
the
distance between
the
front edges
is
75"
and
the
distance between the trailing edges
is
75W';
unscrew the tiller adjuster 4
or
5 complete turns
and
measure
again. Keep adjusting until the measurements
are the
same
. You
can
achieve accuracy
up
to1/32" of
an
inch but
1/8"
is
good.
Operation
of
rudder
system
The
Prindle
rudder
system
is
designed to be used
underway
and
functions best
under
that condition.
The
aft force of the water facilitates raising
the
rudder
and
when
the
rudder
is
released the water slows its
fall.
To
raise the
rudder
, grab handle at
end
of tiller
and
pull until desired height of
rudder
is
achieved.

• Lock line
in
jam cleat at
end
of tiller
by
pulling line
up.
To lower rudder, release uphaulline from jam cleat
and pull ball at
end
of downhaul line until lock bolt
engages spring loaded pin
in
rudder casting.
In
operation
if
the
rudder
is
pulled up too far, the
head
of
the
rudder
blade
will
hit
the
washers at the top
of
the
casting. This could chip your
rudder
blade. To
prevent this, tie a knot
in
pull down line
about
3"
from
ball. Adjust position of knot
so
that
the
raised
rudder
stops just short of hitting the washers.
MAST
AND
RIGGING
Masthead
15 & 18: Masthead
is
assembled before shipping.
16:
To
assemble your masthead, take
the
main
halyard wire
and
thread eye
end
through aft side of
masthead casting (side with curf). Align sheaves with
holes
in
masthead
casting and insert clevis pins
(1
")
through. Insert cotter ring through pin.
Attach main halyard line tail to eye of main halyard
wire with bowline. Tie off main halyard line
and
wire to
the base of
the
mast.
-10
-

Spreaders
18
only; The spreader bars
are
installed onto the
mast spreader base with four
3/16"
x
5/8"
clevis pins
and cotter rings.
The
adjustable length
spreader
bars
are attached to
the
front ofthe
spreader
base plate
and
the shorter bars to the ears near
the
aft edge of
the
mast. Cotter rings should be
on
the bottom. Connect
spreader tips with six clevis pins
and
cotter rings.
The adjustable forward bar can be lengthened or
shortened to adjust the
amount
of "sweep back" the
spreaders have.
The
more the spreaders are "swept
back", the smoother the mast bend
will
be, even with
-11-
tight diamond wires. However, the more"swept back"
the spreaders
are
the more they
will
get
in
the way of
the jib while sailing.
There
is
no "right" or "wrong"
in
the
amount
of
"sweep
back" -just personal pre-
ference. Be sure both sides
are
adjusted to the same
length.
To measure
the
amount
of
"sweep
back"
in
the
spreaders, lay a batten
or
yard stick from tip to tip.
Then
measure
the
distance from the curlof
the
mast to
the batten. About
1~"
"sweep back"
is
considered
normal.
Diamond
wires
18
only; Attach diamond wires to the tangs
on
the
sides of the mast.
The
fork fitting
on
the diamond wire
is
attached to
the upper fitting on the mast.

DANGER! SPECIAL ATTENTION: Be sure all spread-
er
fittings
are
securely attached.
The
mast
will
break if
the diamond wires come loose.
The
mast
is
not
covered
under
warranty for breakage
due
to improper
tuning, assembly
or
maintenance.
Mast rotator
The
turnbuckle
on
the diamond wire
is
attached to
the lower fitting
on
the mast.
The
two
separate
turnbuckle studs should be started into
the
turnbuckle
at the
same
time.
Place
the
diamond wire
in
the slot
in
the
spreader
tip with the nylon roller
above
the spreaders. Using
one
of the
9"
pieces of seizing wire, seize
the
diamond
wires
in
place so they cannot come loose. You must
wrap the tips with duct, sail,
or
electrician's
tape
to
protect your
jib
from chafing.
15 & 18:
The
rotator wishbone
is
bolted to mast
using
the
upper
bolts fitted through
the
diamond
tang
fittings (no tangs on 15). This fitting can remain
on
mast permanently.
The
lower bolts
are
used
to
keep
the wishbone from dropping down
onto
boom.
Masthorn
All boats: Take large
5/16"
shackle
and
thread
rigging
onto
masthorn
in
this order:
-12-

Trapeze wire
Shroud
Forestay pigtail (forestay of 15)
Shroud
Trapeze wire
Notes:
The
18
will
have double trapeze wires
on
one
thimble. When rigging forestay pigtail
onto
masthorn,
the short wire should be towards mast
on
16
&
18,
the
15
will
have the forestay wire only, no pigtail.
Shrouds
and
trapeze
wires
Attach twist clip to shroud pin
on
deck with
1/4"
clevis pin. Attach twist clip to
shroud
adjuster using
another
1/4"
clevis pin. To attach shrouds to shroud
adjuster, insert shroud thimble
in
between shroud
adjuster jaws
and
insert clevis pin through adjuster
and
shroud thimble. Use
one
of the upper holes
in
the
adjuster. Insert cotter ring.
Tie a trapeze ring to each of the
3'
lines supplied.
Thread
the
line through the thimble at the
end
of the
trapeze wire.
Thread
one
of the plastic height adjusters
onto
the line, wrapping the line
around
it
at least twice.
The
adjuster allows you to adjust your trapeze height.
Tie the tail of the line to the shock cord with a bowline.
Prindle
15
&
16
single trapeze
Prindle
18
double trapeze
Forestay
and
jib
halyard
15:
The
forestay
is
already attached to the mast-
horn
and
there
is
no jib halyard.
16
&
18:
Attach
the
forestay to the long pigtail
(30") with a
1/4"
shackle.
The
ring must face towards
the
masj.-
-13-

The
jib halyard with the brummel hooks
connected
together
is
lead
up
through the ring, through the short
pigtail thimble
and
back down through
the
ring. Tie
both ends loosely
near
the
base of
the
mast.
Main halyard
15 & 18:
The
main halyard ring (ring with loop
welded on)
is
attached to
the
main halyard
by
tieing the
halyard through
the
welded loop with a small, compact
bowline. Attach the twisted shackle
onto
the ring.
Attach the main halyard ring
and
other
end
of main
halyard
near
the base of the mast to help
keep
it
out
of
the way while raising the mast. •
16: Main halyard has already
been
installed
under
"masthead"
section.
RAISING THE MAST
This
photo
shows the mast
step
and
hinge.
Store
hinge
components
as shown when
not
in use.
Hint:
you
may wish to use the split ring from
the
forestay turnbuckle
on
the
aft pin as
it
is
easier to
install.
Before raising the mast the boat should
be
on
steady, level ground. If the surface
is
not level, point
the bows downhill. Lengthen the forestay turnbuckle
so
that only
3/4"
of
each
threaded
stud
is
into
the
barrel. Remove
the
clevis pin. Note that
the
shackle pin
takes
the
place of the pin supplied with the turnbuckle.
Uncoil
and
straighten
out
shrouds, forestay,
and
trapeze wires allowing them to
hang
over
the tiller
crossbar to the ground. Walk
the
mast back until
the
base
is
just behind
the
mast
step
on
front crossbar.
Secure
the
hinge to
the
mast base using the pin
prOVided. Attach cotter rings to both
ends
of hinge pin
to prevent
it
from falling
out
while raising mast.
Before lifting the mast, make
sure
wires
will
not
catch
on
rudders
or
other
obstructions
and
that
forestay
is
clear
and
not
fouled with the shrouds.
CHECK FOR OVERHEAD WIRES BEFORE RAISING
MAST. A MAST WHICH COMES
IN
CONTACT
WITH ELECTRICAL POWERLINES CAN CAUSE
SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.
-14-

Prindle
15
mast
step
hinge
in
use Prindle
16
mast
step
hinge
in
use
-15-

Stand
on
trampoline
with
one
foot
on
rear crossbar
to
steady yourself.
Prindle
18
mast step hinge in use
-16-

Raise the mast
to
your shoulder
and
walk forward
with
it
while extending arms
over
your
head
until the
mast
is
held
by
the side shrouds.
can leave
the
forestay turnbuckle pre-set. Tighten
turnbuckle until mast
is
raked slightly aft ofstraight up.
See
Performance Tuning section for optimum mast
rake suggestion If
the
shrouds are
in
one
of the top
holes the
rig
will
be a little loose.
After hoisting the mainsail we
will
explain how
to
tighten
the
rig.
Use a wrench
or
pliers to tighten the
nuts against the turnbuckle barrel. This
will
help keep
it
from unturning.
Note: Make sure to tape
the
turnbuckle barrel and nuts
to
prevent
them from loosening.
Diamond
wires
18: Adjusting the tension of the diamond wires
should
be
done
with care. Before the sails are hoisted,
but after the mast has been stepped; adjust both
Attach the forestay
to
the
1/4"
shackle holding
the
diamond wires
to
the
same
tightness.
If
one
is
looser
bow bridle wires together. After this initial rigging you than the
other
your mast
will
bend
more on
one
tack
-17-

than the other.
Push both wires towards the mast with equal
tension at the
same
time.
The
wires should touch the
mast at least
12"
above the lower
attachment
point but
not more than
20"
above.
If
the diamond wires are too tight, your mast
will
not
bend
and
undo
strain
will
be
put
on
these wires.
WARNING:
If
the
diamond
wires are too loose the
mast could break
under
high pressure loads.
Besure to
tape
the locking nuts
on
turnbuckles after
you have adjusted the wires so
that
they
will
not
unturn.
Sailing note:
The
looser
the
diamond
wires
are
the
more
the
mast
will
bend
and
the flatter
the
sail
will
become (and vice versa).
A way to insure
that
the turnbuckles
on
mast
do
not
loosen
is
to
thread
a small line (batten tie)
through
the
center hole in
each
barrel, tieing a knot
on
the
back
side of the barrel.
SAILS AND BATTENS
Mainsail
battens
The
Prindle mainsail has a batten between
each
panel of cloth.
The
longest
one
is
the
second
one
up
from the
boom
.
The
rest go from long to short as
you
progress up the sail.
The
15
and
16
each
have nine
battens, the
18
has ten.
Remove batten string ties from clew of mainsail.
Fold batten string in half
and
loop
through
batten
grommet
on
leech of sail.
Insert
tapered
end
of
each
batten (foam core)
or
the
end
with
rounded
edges(fiberglass) into batten pockets
making
sure
each
batten
fits
into the pocket
end
pro-
tector
at
forward
edge
of sail. Put plastic
caps
on
aft
end
of fiberglass battens.
-18-

Lead string up through either hole in foam batten
or
through batten
end
cap
and
down through
top
grom-
met
and
tie an
overhand
knot (tightly) while pushing
batten into sail with
thumb
.
Push batten tight
enough
to eliminate all wrinkles
in
batten pocket
if
using fiberglass battens.
Foam
battens
should be tight
enough
to
just "flop" from side
to
side.
Finish tieing string with a
square
knot
and
tuck
loose
ends
into batten pocket.
Finished tie
on
fiberglass batten
-19-
Hoisting
the
mainsail
Face
your
boat
into
the
wind
when
ralsmg
or
lowering
your
sails. Lay
the
mainsail
so
the
batten ends
will
not get
caught
on
the
tiller crossbar.
15
&
18:
Attach
the
twisted shackle
to
the
main
halyard ring.
Note:
The
halyard
should
follow
the
curf of
the
mast
and
not wrap
around
the
hook
at
the
masthead.
Attach
the
twisted shackle
to
the
head
of
the
mainsail
and
place forward
edge
of sail into curl of
mast.
With
one
hand, feed
the
sail into
the
curl
and
pull
on
rope tail
of
halyard (exiting at
base
of mast) with
the
other
.
Make
sure
the
mast
base
sheave,
or
roller, spins
freely while raising
the
sail.
If
it does not,
you
may
need
to
file
the
insi
de
of
the
mast base casting.

When the sail reaches
the
top
of the mast, you must
lock the ring
on
the
halyard line to
the
hookat the
head
of the mast. To
do
this, pull halyard until
the
ring
is
above the hook. Rotate mast (push rotator towards
starboard hull) so
hook
is
inside ring
and
pull down
on
the tack of the sail gently until
the
ring locks
onto
the
hook.
Coil the extra main halyard line
and
store
in
one
of
the pockets
on
the
trapoline.
16:
Attach main halyard shackle into hole
at
head
of mainsail. -
Place forward
edge
of sail into curf of mast. With
one
hand, feed
the
sail into curf
and
pull
on
rope tail of
halyard with
the
other. Pull from directly forward of
mast
and
not
off
to
either side. This helps to prevent
halyard from jumping
out
of mast
head
sheaves.
-20
-
This manual suits for next models
2
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