Baby Lock evolve BLE8W Technical manual

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"IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS"
When using overlock machine, basic safety precautions should always be followed,
including the following.
Read all instructions before using this overlock machine.
DANGER- To reduce the risk of electric shock.
1. The overlock machine should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this overlock
machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.
2. Always unplug before replacing light bulb. Replace bulb with same type rated 15 watts/110 volts in
110V/120V area. (15 watts 230 volts in 220V/240V area.)
WARNING- To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons.
1. Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when the sewing machine is used by or
near children.
2. Use this overlock machine only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only attachments
recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.
3. Never operate this overlock machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has
been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the overlock machine to the nearest authorized
dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
4.Neveroperatetheoverlockmachinewithanyairopeningsblocked.Keepventilationopeningsoftheover-
lock machine and foot controller free from the accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth.
5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
6. Do not use outdoors.
7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.
8. To disconnect, turn the main switch to the symbol "O" position which represents off, then remove plug
from outlet.
9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.
10. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the overlock machine needle.
11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong needle plate can cause the needle to break.
12. Do not use bent needles.
13. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle(s) causing it to break.
14. Switch the overlock machine to the symbol "O" position when making any adjustments in the needle area,
such as threading needle, changing needle, threading looper, or changing presser foot, and the like.
15.Always unplug the overlock machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when
making any of the user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual.
16. Keep fingers away from moving parts, especially the area near the blades.
17. Please note that on disposal, this product must be safely recycled in accordance
with relevant National legislation relating to electrical / electronic products. If in
doubt please contact your retailer for guidance.
18. The appliance is not intended for use by young children or infirm persons without
supervision.
19. Young children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with the appliance.
"SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS"
"This overlock machine is intended for household use."
European
Union only
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Welcome to the Baby Lock evolve
Your Baby Lock evolve provides chain stitching, cover stitching, and overlocking. The Baby Lock evolve has an
exclusive "Thread Delivery System" that eliminates confusing tension adjustments. The evolve enables you to
accomplish a perfect stitch with any type of thread on any type of fabric. You no longer need to guess at the
correct tension adjustments.
Your Baby Lock evolve is a high-quality, dependable machine. It gives you the ability to seam, overcast and
trim all in one operation. Fabrics and threads you previously avoided are now a joy to sew because the Baby
Lock evolve handles all varieties with equal ease. With the Baby Lock evolve your creative options are endless
and your time spent serging is more fulfilling and rewarding. With the "Instant Jet-Air Threading", even thread-
ing the evolve is a breeze.
With proper care and maintenance, your Baby Lock evolve promises years of high-quality, dependable per-
formance and sewing pleasure. Keep this instruction manual as a step-by-step guide to become familiar with
your Baby Lock evolve and expand your sewing horizons.
For additional product information and updates, visit our website at www. babylock. com.
Happy Sewing!
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Table of Contents
OVERVIEW...................................................................................................................... 4
How Your Machine Operates.................................................................................. 4
Overview of the evolve ........................................................................................... 5
Accessories ............................................................................................................ 6
Needles .................................................................................................................. 7
Thread .................................................................................................................... 7
Optional Accessories.............................................................................................. 7
Setting Up Your evolve ........................................................................................ 8/9
Cutting Blade Lock Switch.................................................................................... 10
Cutting Blade Cover and Sewing Table................................................................ 10
Upper Looper Positioning Lever........................................................................... 10
Thread Cutter........................................................................................................ 11
Presser Foot Pressure Adjustment....................................................................... 11
Snap-on Presser Foot........................................................................................... 11
Stitch Length / Rolled Hem................................................................................... 12
Stitch Width........................................................................................................... 12
Differential Feed ................................................................................................... 13
Overlock Thread Delivery System........................................................................ 14
Stitch Selector Lever............................................................................................. 14
Wave Selector Lever ............................................................................................ 14
Side Cover............................................................................................................ 14
Chain/Cover Stitch Tension Dials ......................................................................... 15
Needle Tension Dial.............................................................................................. 15
Chain Looper Tension Dial.................................................................................... 15
2-Thread Subsidiary Looper................................................................................. 16
Upper and Lower Looper Thread Fine-Tuning Screw .......................................... 16
Notes .................................................................................................................... 17
THREADING.................................................................................................................. 18
Threading Preparation.......................................................................................... 18
Threading Your evolve.......................................................................................... 19
Locked Position for Threading.............................................................................. 19
Thread Stand and Thread Port Reference Chart.................................................. 19
Lower Looper........................................................................................................ 20
Upper Looper........................................................................................................ 20
Chain Looper........................................................................................................ 21
Chain/Cover Needles ........................................................................................... 22
Left Chain/Cover Needle - C-1 ............................................................... 22
Center Chain/Cover Needle - C-2 .......................................................... 22
Right Chain/Cover Needle - C-3............................................................. 22
Overlock Needles ................................................................................................. 23
Left Overlock Needle - O-1..................................................................... 23
Right Overlock Needle - O-2 .................................................................. 23
How to Use the Needle Threader......................................................................... 24
Front Cover Seam Guide...................................................................................... 24
Start to Sew.......................................................................................................... 25
To Chain-Off of the Fabric..................................................................................... 25
Clearing the Stitch Width Fingers......................................................................... 26
Re-threading Loopers........................................................................................... 26
OVERLOCK STITCHES - Express Stitches................................................................ 27
4-Thread Overedging ........................................................................................... 27
Overlock Seam..................................................................................................... 27
4-Thread Overlock................................................................................................ 28
3-Thread Overlock - Wide .................................................................................... 29
3-Thread Overlock - Narrow................................................................................. 30
3-Thread Overlock - Narrow Hemming................................................................. 31
Rolled Edging ....................................................................................................... 32
3-Thread Rolled Edge .......................................................................................... 32
Seaming Sheers................................................................................................... 33
Lettuce Edge ........................................................................................................ 33
Belt Loops and Button Loops................................................................................ 33
Returning to Standard Serging............................................................................. 33
3-Thread Flatlock - Narrow................................................................................... 34
2-Thread Overlock................................................................................................ 35
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Table of Contents (Cont.)
Converting from 3-thread to 2-thread overlock..................................................... 35
2-Thread Flatlock - Wide ...................................................................................... 36
2-Thread Flatlock - Narrow................................................................................... 37
Blanket Stitch - Decorative Stitch.......................................................................... 38
Ladder Stitch - Decorative Stitch .......................................................................... 39
Wave Stitch........................................................................................................... 40
Converting from Normal Serging to Wave............................................................ 40
3-thread Wave Stitch ............................................................................................ 41
3-thread Rolled Wave Stitch................................................................................. 42
3-thread Reversed Wave Stitch............................................................................ 43
CHAIN/COVER STITCH - Express Stitches................................................................ 44
Chain Stitching................................................................................................. 44/45
Chain Stitch - TensionAdjustment......................................................... 45
Cover Stitch - Right Narrow - 3mm................................................................. 46/47
Cover Stitch Tension Adjustment............................................................ 47
Cover Stitch - Left Narrow - 3mm.................................................................... 48/49
Cover Stitch Tension Adjustment............................................................ 49
Cover Stitch - Wide - 6mm............................................................................... 50/51
Cover Stitch Tension Adjustment............................................................ 51
Triple Cover Stitch - 6mm................................................................................ 52/53
Triple Cover Stitch Tension Adjustment .................................................. 53
COMBINATION STITCH - Expressive Stitches........................................................... 54
4-Thread Safety Stitch..................................................................................... 54/55
5-Thread Safety Stitch..................................................................................... 56/57
7-Thread Wave Stitch...................................................................................... 58/59
7-Thread Reversed Wave Stitch...................................................................... 60/61
8-Thread Stitch ................................................................................................ 62/63
Expressive Stiches: Chain/Cover Stitches combined with Overlock Stitches........64
Expressive Combinations................................................................................ 64/65
TECHNIQUES................................................................................................................ 66
Turning Corners - Chain Stitch ............................................................................. 66
Turning Corners - Cover Stitch............................................................................. 66
Turning Outside Corners - Overlock..................................................................... 67
Turning Inside Corners - Overlock........................................................................ 67
Flat Hemming - Cover Stitch................................................................................. 68
Hemming in the Round - Cover Stitch.................................................................. 68
Blind Hemming - Overlock.................................................................................... 69
Sewing Curves - Overlock.................................................................................... 69
Inserting Tapes - Overlock.................................................................................... 70
Inserting Tapes - Cover Stitch............................................................................... 70
Flatlock "Decorative" - Overlock........................................................................... 71
Securing Ends - Overlock................................................................................ 72/73
Securing Chain and Cover Stitching..................................................................... 74
Notes .................................................................................................................... 75
SPECIALTY THREADS................................................................................................. 76
Using Specialty Threads....................................................................................... 76
Light-weight Threads................................................................................... 76
Medium-weight Threads.............................................................................. 76
Heavy-weight Threads................................................................................ 76
Bypassing the Threading Port .............................................................................. 77
Looper Threading Tool.......................................................................................... 78
Thread Cradle for Loopers ................................................................................... 79
Specialty Thread Guide Chart ......................................................................... 80/81
MAINTENANCE............................................................................................................. 82
Troubleshooting............................................................................................... 82/83
Replacing Needles ............................................................................................... 84
Replacing Cutting Blades ..................................................................................... 85
Replacing Light Bulb............................................................................................. 85
Cleaning ............................................................................................................... 86
TECHNICAL DATA ........................................................................................................ 87
Technical data....................................................................................................... 87
STITCH SELECTION CHART....................................................................................... 88
Chart for Stitch Selection Setting for Chain/Cover and Combination Stitches. 88/89
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How Your Machine Operates
Sometimes called an overlock machine or overlocker, the serger is different from any conventional sewing
machine you have used. Awareness of its simple operation will enable you to become more proficient in its
use. Please read all instructions before using your new machine.
A serger is kind of a knitting process that loops two, three or four threads together to create a stitch.
Your Baby Lock evolve operates with one or two needles in the overlock position and one or two loopers to
form an overlock stitch. Use one, two or three chain/cover stitch needles and one looper for a chain or cover
stitch. Uniquely independent of each other, you can use any of the overlock or chain/cover stitch selections
separately or in combination.
When fabric is placed in front of the presser foot, it reaches the feed dogs first. The feed dogs move the fab-
ric along as the cutting blades trim the fabric edge, creating a clean edge to be finished. Or disengage your
blade and insert the sewing table to sew a chain stitch in the center of your fabric.
The overlock stitch is supported by one or more parallel "stitch finger(s)" that keep the fabric flat. To form an
overlock stitch, the threads become "locked" "over" the edge of the fabric encasing the raw edge with thread to
prevent fabric raveling. When forming a chain stitch, the chain needle thread catches the chain looper to form
a straight stitch on the top of your fabric and thread chain loops on the underside. Use 2 or 3 cover stitch nee-
dles and the chain looper to form a double or triple row of straight stitching on the top and a weave of thread
on the underside of your fabric.
After setting up your machine for the first time, take a few moments to learn how it sews. Before your machine
is threaded, turn the handwheel toward you and watch the operation of the various parts.
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Overview of the evolve
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1. Upper looper positioning lever 19. Machine lock button
2. Presser foot adjusting screw 20. Looper threading lever
3. Presser foot thread release lever* 21. Chain looper threading port
4. Thread cutter 22. Differential feed adjusting lever
5. Chain/cover stitch needle tension dial 23. Handwheel
6. Needle height viewing area 24. Lower looper threading port
7. Needle clamp screws 25. Power switch
8. Snap-on presser foot 26. Looper threader selector
9. Needle plate 27. Overlock stitch selector
10. Stitch width adjusting dial 28. Accessory compartment & spool stand
11. Side cover 29. Upper looper threading port
12. Cutting blade lock switch 30. Chain/cover stitch looper tension dial
13. Stitch length/rolled hem adjusting dial 31. Carrying handle
14. Cutting blade cover 32. Wave Selector Lever
15. Needle drop drawer 33. Upper & Lower looper thread
16. Subsidiary looper fine-tuning screw
17. Front cover 34. Telescopic thread guide
18. Machine lock button release lever and antenna
* Raising the presser foot releases all threads.
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Accessories
Your Baby Lock evolve serger has a built-in accessory compartment. To open, swing the "lid" on the thread
spoolstand to the right to reveal the tray holding some of the accessories listed below. Others may be found
in the machine packing materials.
Accessory Number included Located in
Instruction manual 1 Packing box
Quick reference threading guide 1 Packing box
Instruction video tape (U.S.A. only) 1 Packing box
Flat table for chain/cover stitching 1 Packing box
Thread guide extension 1 Packing box
Guide fixing screws for table 2 In flat table
Lint brush/needle insert tool 1 Accessory compartment
Package of assorted sized needles 1 Accessory compartment
Organ ELx705CF
Allen screwdriver 1 Accessory compartment
Tweezers 1 Accessory compartment
Upper cutting blade for replacement 1 Accessory compartment
Needle threader 1 Accessory compartment
Overlock needle screws 2 Accessory compartment
Chain/Cover stitch needle screws 2 Accessory compartment
Looper threading tool 1 Accessory packet
Screwdriver 1 Accessory packet
Machine cover 1 Accessory packet
Mounting bolt with washer 1 Accessory packet
Thread nets 8 Accessory packet
Spool caps 8 Accessory packet
Sponge disks 8 Accessory packet
Cone holders 8 On machine
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Your Baby Lock evolve serger is set up to use either Schmetz or Organ ELx705CF needles size 90/14. This
is suitable for most medium and heavyweight fabrics. For lightweight fabrics use size 80/12, ELx705CF nee-
dles. The ELx705CF needle is a semi-ballpoint design and is suitable for knits and wovens.
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Needles
Thread
All types of thread may be used on your Baby Lock, but 100% long-staple polyester thread, crosswound on a
cone,consistentlyprovides thebest stitchperformance. Becausethe threadsmust passthrough severalthread
guides at high speeds, they must be of uniform thickness and high strength with a minimum amount of linting.
Good-quality cotton or cotton-covered polyester threads sew well, though they produce more lint, creating the
need to clean the machine more frequently. They work well for overedging and seaming, but they may be too
weak or too fuzzy for the rolled edge. Poor grades of thread can result in frequent fraying, breaking and unbal-
anced stitches.
Threads of other fiber contents and weights may be used, depending on their strength and thickness. Testing
will help you determine how easily they can pass through the thread guides, thread slots, needles and loopers.
Important Note: For maximum performance of the Baby Lock evolve, it is recommended to use "100%
polyester-long fiber thread". Recommended brands are Maxi-Lock and Metrosene. This thread also performs
best when used with many decorative threads for sewing specialty decorative techniques.
Optional Accessories
OVERLOCK OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES
Beading Foot B5002-04A-C-E (BLE8-BF)
Blindhem Foot B5002S06A-E (BLE8-BLHF)
Elastic Applicator Foot B5002S09A-E (BLE8-EF)
Lace Applicator Foot B5002S08A-E (BLE8-LF)
Piping Foot/5mm Cording B5002-05A-C-E (BLE8-CF)
Ruffling Foot B5002S07A-E (BLE8-RF)
CHAIN/COVER STITCH OPTIONALACCESSORIES
Belt Loop Folder 3/4" B0421S12A-E (BLE8-S12)
Belt Loop Folder 1-1/2" B0421S11A-E (BLE8-S11)
Double Fold Bias Binder 28mm B0421S03A-E (BLE8-S3)
Double Fold Bias Binder 36mm B0421S02A-E (BLE8-S2)
Fabric Guide B0420S01A-E (BLE8-FG)
Pintuck Foot w/2 Guides B5002-06A-C-E (BLE8-PTF)
Plain Hemmer 1/4" B0421S07A-E (BLE8-S7)
Plain Hemmer 1/2" B0421S06A-E (BLE8-S6)
Single Downturn Feller 1/4" B0421S10A-E (BLE8-S10)
Single Downturn Feller 5/8" B0421S08A-E (BLE8-S8)
Single Downturn Feller 1" B0421S09A-E (BLE8-S9)
Single Fold Bias Binder 28mm B0421S04A-E (BLE8-S4)
Single Fold Bias Binder 40mm B0421S05A-E (BLE8-S5)
OTHER OPTIONALACCESSORIES
Bulb Remover tool B7525-01A (262011)
Top Stich Needle Size 90 (T-90B)
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Setting Up Your evolve
1. Remove machine from box
After removing the packing materials from the box,
gently lift your Baby Lock serger by grasping the han-
dle provided on the top of the machine. Place the
machine on a serger sewing table or any level surface
that provides ample work area to the left. Place the foot
controller in a pedal stay, if desired, and place it under
the sewing table.
2. Plug in the machine
Plug the power cord into the machine first, then into a
wall outlet. The power switch is located toward the
back on the right side of the machine. Always make
sure thepower isoff when themachine isnot inuse (fig.
A). Available foot controller for U.S.A.: Model YC-482
or YC-420W.
3. Polarized plug
This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider
than the other). To reduce the risk of electric shock,
this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only one
way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse
the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electri-
cian to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug
in any way.
4. Foot controller
The sewing speed of the machine is determined by the
amountof pressureappliedtothefootcontroller. When
not in use, do not place anything on the foot controller,
or the machine could start inadvertently and the con-
troller or motor could burn out.
5. Spool pin extension table
To insert the spool pin extension:
Place the pegs into the slots on the back of the main
thread spool stand.
Push the extension thread stand onto the main thread
spool stand until it snaps into place (fig. B).
To remove:
Hold the back of the extension table with both hands.
Raise it up and out to release from the main thread
spool stand (fig. C).
A
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6. Position the telescopic thread guide.
Raise the telescopic thread guide to its highest position. Rotate the shaft to the left and right until each sec-
tion "clicks" into a locked position (fig. D).
7. Thread guide extension
To install: Snap & lower. Place plastic support of thread guide extension on top of main telescopic thread guide.
Support the main guide with one hand and snap the extension guide to the back with your other hand (fig. D).
Lower into position. To remove: Raise & pivot. Raise the plastic support straight up and pivot the back of the
support up to release (fig. E).
8. Opening front cover
Thefrontcover maybeopened simplybyplacing yourfingersbehind thetabat therightside andpullingtoward
you (fig. F).
9. Opening Cutting blade cover
To open the cutting blade cover, place your thumb against the tab, and slide the cover to the right. A slight pull
toward you will allow the cover to swing down, providing access to the loopers, blades, and thread guides
(fig. G).
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Setting Up Your evolve
D
FG
E
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