BARCLONE Antares User manual
Skill Level 3
Antares
Designed By C. P. McGraw
Revision Date: Dec 1 , 2005
Main Parts List
Main Nose Cone....................BNC-50Y
Main Body Tube......................BT-50
Pod Nose Cone.................(4) BNC-5AX
Pod Tail Cone..................(4) BNC-5E
Pod Body Tube..................(4) BT-5BJ
Rea tor Shroud.....................BT-55J
Motor Tube.........................BT-20J
Centering Rings...............(2) CR-2050
Thrust Ring........................CR-520
Engine Hook..........................EH-2
Main Fin Sto k...........1/8” Balsa Sheet
Cooling Vanes...........1/16” Balsa Sheet
Laun h Lug.......................(2) LL-2
Para hute....................18” Diameter
Sho k Chord.........................SC-24
Sho k Chord Mount..................SCK-24
S rew Eye............................SE-1
Snap Links........................(2) #12
Image created with RockSim v8
Length 23.75”
Diameter 0.976”
Fin Span 8.075”
Weight 2.13 oz
Main Fins
(Make each from 1/8” balsa sheet)
Reactor ooling Vanes
(Make 8 from 1/16” balsa sheet)
Fin Templates
Reactor Cooling Vanes
Alignment Tool Parts List
RCV Alignment Guide End Pie es.........(2) 0.05” Fiberboard
RCV AG Conne ting Tube...............................BT-5BJ
Reactor Cooling Vane Alignment Guide
(Make 2 from 0.05” fiberboard)
(Make 1 from 0.05” fiberboard)
Fin Tip Pod Alignment Tool Main Fin Marking Guide
(Make 2 from 0.05” fiberboard)
(Make 1 from 0.05” fiberboard)
Alignment Guides
Main Fin
Alignment Tool Parts List
Guide Supports.................................(2) 0.05” Fiberboard
Sliding Tube Holders...........................(3) 0.05” Fiberboard
Clamping Tubes.........................................(6) BT-3, 9”
Main Fin Front Support Piece
(Make 2 from 0.05” fiberboard)
Main Fin Rear Support Piece
-- Sliding Tube Holder --
(Make 3 from 0.05” fiberboard)
Alignment Guides
Painting Guide
Read this instruction guide carefully
several times before starting the actual
construction of the model. You need to
familiarize yourself with the overall flow of
the process, since there will be many starting
and stopping points for various
subassemblies. There are many
opportunities for overlapping the
construction of one subassembly while
another is drying, even if the instruction
guide doesn't explicitly show this. Reading
these instructions ahead of time will allow
you to understand what needs to be done and
when, and it allows you to schedule your
building time more productively.
Step 1 Test-fit the pieces together and
ma e minor adjustments as required for the
pieces to fit friction-tight, but not so tight
that the pieces are damaged, not so loose
that the pieces fall apart.
Step 2 The two large end pieces should be
spaced about 2” apart, with the tubes
holding them together. One of the end
pieces should be about 1/16” from the edge
of the tubes, and the other end piece about
2” inward from there. Insert a 1/8” balsa
spacer between the tubes at each end piece
to eep them properly aligned. Slide all
three of the movable small end pieces onto
the tubes at the far end and space them
about 1” apart.
Step 3 Insert a scrap piece of BT-50
tubing through the large holes of the two
end pieces. Inspect the alignment and ma e
adjustments to ensure that the BT-3 tubes
are parallel to each other and to the scrap
BT-50, but perpendicular to all of the end
pieces.
Step 4 Apply glue to the joints between
the BT-3 tubes and the large end pieces. Do
not glue the BT-50 tube in place. Do not
glue the smaller end pieces in place. Set this
aside for about 20 minutes to dry.
Step 5 Test-fit the pieces together and
ma e minor adjustments as required for the
pieces to fit friction-tight, but not so tight
that the pieces are damaged, not so loose
that the pieces fall apart.
Step 6 Slide the two end pieces onto the
3” BT-5CJ tube, and position them 1/4”
from each end. Ma e an adjustment to align
the slots with each other. Place scrap pieces
of 1/16” balsa strips into the slots and
carefully rotate one of the end pieces until
the strips are parallel to the tube.
Step 7 Apply thinned glue to the joints of
the end pieces with the tube. Do not glue
any of the strips in place. Allow about 20
minutes for the glue to dry.
Step 8 Draw a line down the full length of
all four of the 2” long BT-5BJ fin pod tubes.
Mar each tube 0.125” from each end. Draw
a line completely around the tubes at these
locations.
Figure 1
Step 9 Using a large modeler's “T” pin,
punch a series of holes about 1/32” on either
side of the long axis line, in a zig-zag
pattern, between the circumferential lines at
either end of the tube. Refer to Fig. 1 to
understand the idea.
General Assembly Sequence
Main Fin Alignment Tool
Fin Tip Pod Construction
Reactor Vane Alignment Tool
Step 10 Glue one BNC-5AX in one end
of each pod tube, and one BNC-5E cone
into the opposite end. Set aside to dry.
Step 11 Sand the pod with 220-grit paper
to remove fuzziness from the balsa pieces,
and to remove the shine from the tube
surface,
Step 12 Cut four strips of mas ing tape
1/8” wide and 1.75” long. Place one strip
over the long attachment line between the
two circumferential lines on each pod. This
will protect the line of holes punched in step
9.
Step 13 Apply thinned lightweight filler
compound to the entire pod and allow to
dry. BARCLONE recommends Elmer's
Fill-N-Finish for this. Sand with 220-grit
paper, tac -rag the pod, and inspect for
scratches, voids, and gouges. Repeat this
step until you are satisfied with the surface
finish.
Step 14 Mar the motor tube at 0.75”,
2.25”, and 2.5” from one end. Draw lines
completely around the tube at these
locations. Draw a single line lengthwise the
full length of the tube.
Step 15 At the intersection of the 2.5”
line and the lengthwise line, cut a slot in the
tube about 1/8” wide.
Figure 2
Step 16 Modify the two CR-2050 rings
by cutting or sanding flat notches in the
inside diameter, as shown in Fig. 2 above. A
sanding twig is an excellent tool for this job.
Figure 3
Step 17 Modify one of the two CR-2050
rings with two “V” notches, as shown in
Fig. 3 above.
Step 18 Insert the tip of the engine hoo
into the slot in the tube, then slide the CR-
2050 “B” ring with the “V” notches down
from the top until it touches the line at 2.25”
from the bottom edge, aligning the flat
notch over the hoo . Keep the hoo aligned
parallel to the tube.
Step 19 Slide the CR-2050 “A” ring up
from the bottom of the tube, with the flat
notch over the hoo , until it touches the line
at 0.75” from the bottom edge. Apply glue
to the base of each ring, front and rear,
where it contacts the tube. Allow at least 20
minutes to dry.
Step 20 Apply a layer of glue with a soft-
bristle brush around the inside of the top end
of the tube. Push the CR-520 ring into this
end and push with an expended engine
casing until it bottoms out against the tip of
the engine hoo . Allow to dry.
Figure
Step 21 Tie a not about 5” from one end
of the SCK-24 Kevlar thread. As shown in
Fig. 4 above, run the short end of the Kevlar
thread through one of the “V” notches from
the front, loop it around the body tube, then
run it out through the other “V” notch. Tie a
slip not around the long end of the not,
Engine Mount Construction
then pull the slip not down tight with the
first not. Even out the two legs of the
thread, then apply a layer of glue around the
bac side of the forward “B” ring to secure
the Kevlar thread in place. Apply a drop of
thinned glue to the two nots, then set aside
to dry.
Step 22 Using the Reactor Vane
Alignment Tool you completed in step 7,
mar the inside diameter of the BT-55J tube
for the edges of the eight cooling vanes.
Draw lines down the full length of the inside
of the tube at each location. Cut eight strips
of mas ing tape, 1/16” wide and 3” long.
Apply these strips of tape directly between
each 1/16”-wide pair of lines. This will
protect the inside of the shroud from filler
and primer while completing the next few
steps.
Step 23 Fill the inner and outer spiral
seams on the BT-55J shroud with thinned
lightweight filler compound. Apply filler to
the sides, leading, and trailing edges of the
eight cooling vanes. Do not apply filler to
the top or root edges of the vanes. Allow a
full day to dry. Sand all of the pieces
smooth with 220-grit paper, but do not
damage or lift the mas ing tape from the
shroud. A 1/2” dowel wrapped with the
sanding sheet may be helpful in sanding the
inside of the shroud. Tac -rag the dust.
Step 24 Cut eight strips of mas ing tape,
1/16” wide and 2.75” long. Apply these to
the top edges of the vanes. Cut eight more
strips, 1/16” wide and 4.75” long, and apply
these to the root edges of the vanes. Prime
the inside surface of the shroud and the
sides of the vanes with one coat of white or
gray primer, and allow a day to dry. You
may sand the primer at this stage, but it is
not really necessary as it will not easily be
seen.
Step 25 Remove all of the tape strips
from the shroud pieces and discard these.
Insert into the slots of the Reactor Vane
Alignment Tool all eight of the primed balsa
vanes, with the wide root edges pointing
inward, and the short edges pointing
outward. Position the loaded tool inside the
shroud so that each of the vanes is aligned
over one of the uncovered strips. Apply a
small drop of thinned white glue to both
sides of each vane at the center where it
contacts the shroud. This is only meant to
tac the vane in place. Do not get glue on
the tool, nor add any additional glue to the
joint at this time. Allow the glue about 20
minutes before removing the tool. Now,
using a een pointed artists brush, or a fine-
tipped pipette, apply thinned white glue to
all of these joints, ma ing sure the full
length of the joint has been glued. Allow
another 20 minutes to dry before handling.
Step 26 Cut eight more strips of mas ing
tape, 1/16” wide and 5” long. Apply these
strips of tape directly on top of the root edge
of each vane. This will protect these edges
from paint.
Step 27 Spray the inside and outside
surfaces of the shroud, and the fins, with
gloss or flat blac , and allow a day to dry.
Now, remove the strips of tape from the
bottom edges of the vanes.
Figure 5
Step 28 Cut four pieces each of the main
fin upper and lower sections using the
patterns on page 2. Square and true up the
Main Fin Assembly
Reactor Shroud Construction
edges of all eight pieces. Glue the fin halves
together as shown in Fig. 5 above. Use pins,
clamps, or weights to hold the pieces in
alignment while the glue dries.
Step 29 Round over only the leading and
trailing edges of the main fins with 320-grit
paper. Do not reshape the fin. Apply a thin
layer of glue to the root edges of all four
main fins, and set aside to dry.
Step 30 Apply thinned filler compound
to the edges and flat surfaces of the fins, and
allow a day to dry. Sand with 220-grit
paper, tac -rag the dust, and inspect the fins
for gouges, voids, or other visible
blemishes. Repeat this step until you are
satisfied with the surface finish.
Step 31 Sand the 18” BT-50 tube with
220-grit paper to remove the glassine
“shine” from the surface.
Step 32 Draw a continuous line down the
length of the main body tube. Mar the tube
at locations 1”, 2.25”, 4”, 7.75”, 9.5”,
10.75” and 12.5” from the bottom edge.
Draw lines completely around the tube at
these locations.
Step 33 Draw lines parallel to the long
line, 1/16” to either side, between the lines
at 1” and 2.25”, and between the lines at
9.5” and 10.75”. These areas represent the
locations for the two launch lugs. Cut strips
of mas ing tape to fit these two areas, and
apply them to the tube to protect these areas
from filler and primer.
Step 34 Slide the Main Fin Mar ing
Guide onto the body tube from the rear, and
align the “LL” mar with the long line
drawn in step 28. Mar the body tube for the
four fin alignment lines, then remove the
guide. Extend these lines from the rear edge
of the tube up to the line drawn at 4” from
the edge.
Step 35 Cut four strips of mas ing tape
1/8” wide and 4” long. Carefully apply these
to the body tube directly over the fin
alignment lines.
Step 36 Slide the Reactor Vane Mar ing
Guide down from the front of the body tube
until it is touching the line at 12.5”. Align
the “LL” mar with the long line drawn in
step 28. Mar the body tube at each of the
eight locations, then remove the guide.
Extend these eight lines from the line at
12.5” bac to the line at 7.75”.
Step 37 Cut eight strips of mas ing tape
1/16” wide and 4.75” long. Carefully apply
these to the body tube directly over the eight
reactor vane alignment lines.
Step 38 Apply thinned filler compound
to the spiral seam on the body tube, and
allow a day to dry. Sand with 220-grit
paper, tac -rag the dust, and inspect the tube
for gouges, voids, or other visible
blemishes. Repeat this step until you are
satisfied with the surface finish.
Figure 6
Step 39 Using the threads of the screw
eye, cut a hole through the center of the
BNC-50Y shoulder. As shown in Fig. 6
above, reverse the screw eye bac out, then
force full-strength glue into the hole. Coat
the threads with glue, then re-thread the
screw eye into the hole. Do not wipe away
the excess glue. Let this dry in an inverted
position (screw eye up) while the glue dries.
Step 40 Apply thinned filler compound
to the surface of the nose cone. Do not get
any filler on the shoulder area. Allow this to
dry a full day, then sand with 220-grit paper.
Main Body Tube Preparation
Main Body Tube Assembly
Tac -rag the dust and inspect for scratches,
gouges, or voids. Repeat this sequence as
needed to achieve a smooth, unblemished
surface.
Figure 7
Step 41 Tie a slip not with about a 1”
loop at the free end of the Kevlar thread.
Run the elastic shoc chord through this
loop, and tie a slip not in the elastic as
shown in Fig. 7 above, trapping the Kevlar
loop. Pull both nots tightly against each
other, then apply a drop of thinned glue to
the two nots to secure them. Allow to dry.
Step 42 Remove the four pieces of tape
protecting the fin attachment areas from the
body tube, and discard.
Step 43 Referring bac to Fig. 1, in the
same manner as you did for the fin tip pod
tubes, use a large “T” pin to punch a series
of holes along the fin alignment lines
between the rear edge of the tube and the
line drawn at 4”, about 3/32” apart. This
will actually help strengthen the attachment
of the fin later. Apply a thin layer of glue to
the four main fin alignment lines, forcing
some glue into the pin holes. Allow these to
dry about 20 minutes. This forms the
foundation layers for what is nown as a
“double-glue joint”.
Step 44 Remove the two pieces of tape
protecting the launch lug attachment areas
from the body tube, and discard. Apply a
thin layer of glue to these areas and allow to
dry. Apply a thin layer of glue to the two
launch lugs as well, and allow to dry.
Step 45 Remove the eight pieces of tape
protecting the reactor vane attachment areas
from the body tube, and discard. Apply a
thin layer of glue to these areas and allow to
dry. Cut eight more pieces of mas ing tape,
1/16” wide and 4.75” long, and reapply over
these areas to protect the glue layer for a
later step.
Figure 8
Step 46 Pull the Kevlar thread down
through the center of the motor mount from
the top. As shown in Fig. 8 above, apply a
generous bead of glue around the inside of
the main body tube, about 2” up from the
rear edge. Spread this around with a brush.
With one continuous motion, not stopping
during the process, insert the motor mount
into the main body tube and push forward
through the glue until the rear edge of the
motor tube is even with the rear edge of the
body tube. Do not stop the push during this
step as it will allow the glue to “freeze” the
mount in the wrong place. Set the body tube
in an upright position for about an hour
while the glue dries.
Figure 9
Step 47 If you are using a pre-assembled
parachute, s ip to the next step. Assemble
the parachute as shown in its included
instructions, but modify the shroud
attachment method as shown in Fig. 9
above.
Step 48 Gather the shroud lines together
and attach them to the swivel end of one of
the snap lin s. Attach the swivel end of the
remaining snap lin to the free end of the
elastic shoc chord. Apply a drop of thinned
glue to these nots to secure them, and
allow to dry. Do not attach the parachute to
the nose cone, or store it in the body tube at
this time.
Step 49 Pull the elastic shoc chord and
the excess length of the Kevlar thread bac
through the motor tube and out the front end
of the main body tube.
Step 50 Attach the snap lin of the shoc
chord to the screw eye in the base of the
nose cone. Push the shoc chord bac into
the body tube, and insert the nose cone into
the tube.
Step 51 Remove the small end pieces
from the rear of the fin alignment tool.
Remove the scrap piece of BT-50 from the
front end pieces. Slide the alignment tool
down from the top of the main body tube,
such that the six BT-3 tubes are pointed
toward the rear of the model. Rotate the tool
so that the gap between the tubes is aligned
directly over the fin attachment areas.
Step 52 Apply a second layer of glue to
the one fin attachment area directly below
the tool, and to the root edge of one main
fin. Slide the fin into the gap between the
guide tubes, and press the fin against the
body tube with the trailing edge touching
the rear edge of the body tube, and the
leading edge touching the line at 4”. Slide
the short end pieces onto the six guide tubes
to firmly clamp the fin in place. Ma e any
adjustments to the position of the fin while
the glue is still wet. Use a moist brush to
remove the excess glue from the joint, and
to smooth out the remaining glue into a
fillet. Allow about 20 minutes to dry.
Remove the short end pieces, then slide the
guide forward just enough to clear the
leading edges of the fin. Rotate the guide,
and repeat this sequence for each of the
remaining three main fins.
Step 53 Remove the strip of tape from
one of the pods. Mix up a small quantity of
20-minute epoxy. Apply a very thin layer of
epoxy to the tip edge of one main fin, and to
the exposed area on the pod. Force some of
the epoxy into the holes. Attach the pod to
the fin tip, with the longer cone pointing
toward the front. Slide one of the pod
alignment guides from the rear over the pod,
with the fin in the slot. Do the same with a
second guide from the front. Wipe away any
excess epoxy that squeezes out from the
joint, but do not get any epoxy on the
guides. Allow at least two hours for the
epoxy to cure before removing the guides.
Repeat this sequence for the remaining three
pods.
Step 54 Inspect the main body, fins, and
pods for glue ridges or other imperfections
that might show through the primer. Sand,
apply filler, let dry, and sand again as
needed to achieve a level of surface finish
you are satisfied with.
Step 55 Apply glue to the two launch lug
attachment areas, and to the two launch
lugs, then attach the lugs to the body tube.
Sight down the two lugs and adjust them as
needed until they are parallel to the tube and
in-line with each other. Wipe away the
excess glue with a moist brush, being
careful not to disturb the position of the
lugs. Allow to dry.
Step 56 When all of the glue joints have
dried completely, apply a second fillet of
glue to all of the non-epoxy joints, and
smooth this into a fillet with your finger.
This will reinforce the joint against flight
stresses. Allow to dry.
Finishing
Main Fins and Fin Tip Pods
Figure 10
Step 57 The illustration in Fig. 10 above
shows the best method for spraying the
model, for primers, paints, or gloss coats. It
is also the best method regardless of the
type of spray used, aerosol or airbrush.
Always spray the model in a top-down
fashion, with the spray starting above the
model and ending below the model, to
reduce the chances for splattering.
BARCLONE suggests using either Rust-O-
Leum White Clean Bare Metal Primer, or
Krylon White H2O Primer, as these both
sand well. Spray at least two complete coats
of primer before sanding the first time,
allowing two days of drying time after each
coat. If using a solvent-based primer, there
should be no odor remaining. Sand the first
coat with 220-grit paper until the all the
surfaces appear sealed. Tac -rag the model
and inspect the surfaces for voids and
scratches. Repeat this sequence, one coat at
a time, until all of these imperfections have
been rendered unnoticeable.
Step 58 The BARCLONE suggested
color scheme is an overall white, with blac
main fins, fin tip pod cones, reactor shroud,
and cooling fins. Refer to the painting guide
on page 5. If you use a bright white primer,
you only need to mas off for the trim color.
With a flat white primer, we recommend the
use of acrylic artists paint thinned with
airbrush medium and water. This paint will
dry flat, and there are no solvent fumes to
deal with. You should allow at least two full
days before mas ing over the white, to
prevent the tape from lifting the white when
it is removed.
Step 59 Remove and discard the eight
pieces of tape protecting the reactor vane
attachment areas on the main body. You
may need to use the tip of a #11 nife to
assist in lifting a corner of the tape.
Step 60 Remove and discard the eight
pieces of mas ing tape protecting the root
edges of the reactor vanes.
Step 61 Slide the reactor shroud down
from the front of the model carefully so as
not to scar the finish. Position and align the
root edges of the cooling vanes directly over
the exposed bare surface areas. Ma e
adjustments in the root edges as needed to
eliminate binding, but be careful not to
remove too much material and cause the
vanes to be loose. When the vanes are
correctly positioned, apply thinned white
glue with a pipette or a een-pointed brush
to both sides of the vane-to-body-tube
joints. Allow to dry. The white glue will dry
clear, and will be nearly invisible.
Step 62 When there are no more solvent
fumes, or when the paint has dried for a full
two or three days, spray the model with a
clear gloss coat. BARCLONE recommends
Future Floor Finish, as this product does
not use harsh solvents which can destroy an
otherwise great paint job. Allow at least two
days for the gloss coat to dry.
Installing Reactor Shroud
Figure 11
Step 63 Fold or roll the parachute in a
manner similar to the illustration in Fig. 11
above. You may find that a light dusting of
talcum powder will help the parachute open
easier, especially in cold weather, or cold
climates. Do not ma e the parachute bundle
too tight.
Step 64 Remove the nose cone from the
body tube. Attach the snap lin s of the
parachute and the shoc chord to the screw
eye.
Figure 12
Step 65 As shown in Fig. 12 above, push
at least 3” of flame-resistant recovery
wadding, either crumpled sheets or loose
cellulose fill, into the body tube and down to
the motor using a 3/4” dowel. Do not pac
this material tightly! The wadding must be
blown out of the model to recover
successfully. You are only trying to create a
gas seal and a particulate bloc to protect
the parachute with this material. Next, push
the shoc chord and the Kevlar thread down
on top of the wadding. Insert the rolled or
folded parachute on top of the shoc chord,
ma ing sure the parachute is at least 2”
below the edge of the tube. Finally, insert
the nose cone.
Step 66 The BARCLONE Antares is not
a high-performance model, therefore you
will not achieve the same altitudes with this
design that you might otherwise reach with
lower-drag model. We have selected a set of
two motors that provide nice, visible flights
and which allow for safe same-field
recovery. We do not recommend any other
motor(s) at this time.
B6-4......285'......16.3 FPS Dv
C6-5......700'......11.3 FPS Dv
Step 67 Review the Model Roc et Safety
Guide at the end of this guide, then go fly!
Developed for BAR LONE Rocketry
by . P. McGraw
Model design copyright © 2005
by . P. McGraw
Instruction text copyright © 2005
All Rights Reserved
Preflight Sequence
Materials: I will use only lightweight, non-metal parts
for the nose cone, body, and fins of my rockets.
Motors: I will use only certified, commercially-made
model rocket motors, and will not tamper with these
motors or use them for any purposes except those
recommended by the manufacturer.
Ignition System: I will launch my rockets with an
electrical launch system and electrical motor ignitors. My
launch system will have a safety interlock in series with the
launch switch, and will use a launch switch that returns to
the “off” position when released.
Misfires: If my rocket does not launch when I press the
button of my electrical launch system, I will remove the
launcher's safety interlock, or disconnect it's battery, and
will wait 60 seconds after the last launch attempt before
allowing anyone to approach the rocket.
Launch Safety: I will use a countdown before launch,
and will ensure that everyone is paying attention and is a
safe distance of at least 15 feet away when I launch rockets
with “D” motors or smaller, and 30 feet when I launch
larger rockets. If I am uncertain about the safety or
stability of an untested rocket, I will check the stability
before flight and will fly it only after warning spectators
and clearing them to a safe distance.
Launcher: I will launch my rockets from a launch rod,
tower, or rail that is pointed to within 30 degrees of the
vertical to ensure that the rocket flies nearly straight up,
and I will use a blast deflector to prevent the motor's
exhaust from hitting the ground. To prevent accidental eye
injury, I will place launchers so that the end of the launch
rod is above eye level or I will cap the end of the rod when
it is not in use.
Size: My model rocket will not weigh more than 1,500
grams (53 oz) at liftoff, and will not contain more than 125
grams (4.4 oz) of propellant or 320 N-sec (71.9 lb-sec) of
total impulse. If my model weighs more than one pound
(453 grams) at liftoff, or has more than four ounces (113
grams) of propellant, I will check and comply with Federal
Aviation Administration (FAA) regulations before flying.
Flight Safety: I will not launch my rockets at targets,
into clouds, or near airplanes, and will not put any
flammable or explosive payload into my rockets.
Launch Site: I will launch my rockets outdoors, in an
open area at least as large as shown below, and in safe
weather conditions with winds speeds no greater than 20
MPH. I will ensure that there is no dry grass close to the
launch pad, and that the launch site does not present risk
of grass fires.
LAUN H SITE DIMENSIONS
Total Impulse
(nSec)
Motor Size Minimum
Field Size
0.00 – 1.25 1/ A – 1/2A 50'
1.26 – 2.50 A 100'
2.51 – 5.00 B 200'
5.01 – 10.00 C 00'
10.01 – 20.00 D 500'
20.01 – 160.00 E, F, G 1000'
160.01 – 320.00 2G 1500'
Recovery System: I will use a recovery system, such
as a streamer or parachute, in my rockets so that they
return safely and undamaged and can be flown again, and
I will use only flame-resistant or fireproof recovery system
wadding in my rockets.
Recovery Safety: I will not attempt to recover my
rocket from power lines, tall trees, or other dangerous
places.
Model Rocket Safety ode
developed by the
National Association of Rocketry
Revised ode November, 2004
