Bradford White ERE240 User manual

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238-55036-00A REV 11/22
SERVICE
MANUAL
Troubleshooting Guide
and Instructions for Service
(To be performed ONLY by
qualified service providers)
A Spanish language version of these instructions is available by
contacting the manufacturer listed on the rating plate.
La versión en Español de estas instrucciones está disponible
contactando a la fábrica cuyo nombre aparece en la placa de
Models Covered
by This Manual:
Residential:
ERE240(S,L)
ERE250(S,L,T)
ERE255T
ERE340(S,T)
ERE350S
Residential Electric Water Heaters with
ICON E™Electronic Control

Introduction……………………………………………………………………
Tools……………………………………………………………………………
General Information…………………………………………………………..
Troubleshooting……………………………………………………………...
Line Voltage and High Limit ECO Testing…………………………………
Heating Element Testing……………........................................................
High Limit (ECO) Removal and Replacement ……………….……………
Power Switch Module (PSM) Testing ....……………………………………
Upper Temperature Sensor Testing ....…………………………………..…
Heating Element Removal and Replacement ……………………………..
DipTube and Anode Inspection and Replacement ……………………….
Generic Parts List …………………………………………………………….
Wiring Diagram...............……………........................................................
Page
2
2
3
6
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
This service manual is designed to aid service and maintenance professionals on the function, proper
diagnosis and repair of Bradford White residential electric water heaters.
The text and illustrations in this manual provide step by step instructions to facilitate proper operation and
troubleshooting procedures. Contact the Bradford White Technical Support Group immediately if
diagnosis cannot be made using the methods described in this service manual.
- Multi Meter
- 1-½ Deep Well Socket
- ¼" Nut Driver
- Phillips Head Screw Driver
- Thermometer
- Drain Hose
Various Hand Tools: Pipe Wrench, Channel Locks, Pliers (common & needle nose), Wire cutters, Wire
Strippers, Flash Light.
Residential Electric
Water Heaters
2
2

2
Commonly Used Formulas
Amps =
Amps =
Watts
Volts
Watts
Volts x 1.732
(for single phase units) Example: 4500W/240V =18.75A
(for balanced 3phase units) Example: 4500W/(240V x1.732) =10.82A
Watts =Amps xVolts Example: 18.75A x240V =4500W
Volts2
Ohms = Watts Example: (240V) / 4500W =12.8 Ohms
BLACK
Ungrounded
WHITE
Grounded
(Neutral)
GREEN
Grounding
BLACK
Ungrounded
RED
Ungrounded
GREEN
Grounding
INFORMATION
Common Service Wire Configurations
240
120
120
WARNING
THE WATER HEATER MUST BE WELL GROUNDED. USE THE GREEN GROUND SCREW PROVIDED AT
THE ELECTRICAL CONNECTION POINT FOR CONNECTING A GROUND WIRE.
3
3

System Description
The operation of the ICON E™Electronic Control system is unlike that of the traditional snap disc
thermostats in several ways. Troubleshooting the operation of the control differs from the older models.
Power-Up
When the control is initially powered, it will go through several stages. Upon any power-up cycle the LED will flash
rapidly in an Amber-Green pattern as the control undergoes an initial 5 second sequence to initialize and ensure
everything in the control is working correctly. If the water heater is new and has never run a heating cycle, or if the
heater was drained to replace a burned out heating element, the control will run StartGuard™prior to heating the
water. The control will enter StartGuard™only if the Setpoint Knob is moved after power is applied and set
to a temperature that calls for the heating elements to turn on. StartGuard™will test to ensure the tank is
full of water and the elements are functioning correctly.The test is indicated by an Amber-Green flash pattern
and should take less than 5 minutes. After the initial power-up cycles finish, the control moves into normal operation
indicated by a single green flash on the LED.To heat up the tank the water heater begins by first turning on the
upper element.
Normal Operation
The pattern of element operation for the ICON E™system is similar to that of a traditional Bi-metal disk water
heater. It prioritizes heating the upper portion of the tank to allow for faster recovery of the water heater when
depleted. This means that upon startup the water heater begins by heating up the upper portion of the tank and
then moves to recover the bottom to setpoint temperature. When the water heater is already hot and experiences a
draw it will begin by turning on the lower element and if the tank continues to be depleted past a certain point it will
switch to the upper element until it satisfies the upper portion of the tanks demand. At this point the heater will
recover the lower portion of the tank to setpoint temperature.
INFORMATION
4
4

CTA 2045 (For Applicable Models)
Some controls are equipped with a CTA 2045 port which enables the ICON E™system to communicate with a
Universal Communication Module (UCM). Your local electrical utility provider may offer a Demand Response
Management (DRM) program that allows your provider to offload power into your water heater or to temporarily
delay the recovery of the water heater in order to help regulate demands on the power grid. This system, if used, will
interact with your water heater in one of two ways. First is the Load-Up command, which will make sure that your
water heater fully recoversto setpoint.Second, it can issue a Load Shed command. A Load Shed command may
cause the water in the tank to cool off more than it normally would before recovering, potentially resulting in less
available hot water. You will be able to tell if the water heater is operating in a Load Shed command by looking at
the status LED. If you see a flash pattern of 6 amber flashes followed by a 4 second off period, the control is
operating under a Load Shed command. If this performance is undesirable and you would like to temporarily
disable it, move the Setpoint knob to some other temperature and then return it to the desired setpoint.. This
will allow the water heater to operate normally for 72 hours.
DRM programs offered by electric utility providers typically require that the water heater have a setpoint
temperature of 140 °F or higher. Water temperatures of 140 °F and above will scald in five seconds or less,
causing severe burns or even death. It is highly recommended that an ASSE approved thermostatic mixing valve
be installed when operating a water heater at these higher temperatures.
Note: When a mixing valve is installed, the temperature of the hot water delivered to the home is determined
by the mixing valve. If the hot water temperature is inadequately low, check the mixing valve first. There is a
setpoint adjustment mechanism on all mixing valves that adjusts the blend of hot water (from the water heater)
and cold water (from cold water pipes) that results in the hot water temperature delivered to the hot water
distribution pipes. If hot water at the tap is too cool, check and adjust the mixing valve to a hotter setpoint. If
water from the water heater is hot and the delivered hot water at the tap is cold, the mixing valve is likely the
cause.
Installation of CTA Module:
1) Turn off power to water heater
2) Remove CTA connector cover by removing the screws that attach the cover.
3) Plug UCM device into the CTA Port and attach to the water heater via screws provided with the UCM
4) Apply power to the water heater
INFORMATION
Caution
THE CTA CONNECTOR HAS LIVE LINE VOLTAGE POWERED PINS. POWER OFF WATER HEATER
BEFORE INSTALLING CTA UNIVERSAL COMMUNICATION MODULE (UCM).
5
5

High Limit (ECO)/Upper Temperature Sensor
The surface mounted High Limit (Electrical Cut-Out) and Upper Temperature Sensor assembly is
mounted in the upper handhole of the water heater by a bracket which holds it against the side of
the tank.
The Upper Temperature Sensor and the High Limit (ECO) both respond to tank surface temperatures.
For the Upper Temperature sensor this means letting the controller know when to either call for heat
or when to indicate that the tank it satisfied. In the case of the High Limit (ECO) it cuts power to the
heating elements if the temperature exceeds a predetermined temperature (High Limit). It is important
that the entire back surface of the High Limit and temperature sensor are in full contact with or flush to
the surface of the tank. An improperly mounted High Limit (ECO) or Upper Temperature Sensor will
lead to improper water heater operation.
Power Switch Module
The surface mounted Power Switch Module is an assembly that consists of the lower temperature
sensor, and solid-state switches that control power to the heating elements. The Power Switch Module
receives signals from the Control Module to turn On/Off power to the upper and lower heating elements.
Temperature readings from the Power Switch Module are used by the Control Module to determine when
to turn On/Off the Heating Elements. The Power Switch Module is mounted in the lower handhole via a
spring clip and retaining lever. Good thermal contact from the Power Switch Module to the tank wall is
critical to the proper operation of the water heater. It is important that the tank wall is free of debris and
that an adequate layer of thermal paste is applied between the tank wall and the Power Switch Module.
Control Module
The Control Module, located in the plastic upper handhole cover, is the main circuit board in the ICON
E™Electronic Control system. The Control Module does the thinking for the control system, reads the
temperature sensors, and controls the elements. It also reads the user setpoint temperature and
displays user notifications using an LED. It’s important to make sure that the connectors are properly
connected to the Control Module to ensure proper operation.
Direct Immersion “Screw-in” Type Heating Element
INFORMATION
6
6

LED Status
Control Status
Probable Cause*
OFF (LED not flashing)
No power is present to control
1) Power is not connected to water
heater.
2) Control power connector is
disconnected.
Alternating Green and Amber Flashes
Control is in StartGuard™
Mode. This mode runs prior to
the first heating cycle or after
replacing a failed heating
element.
Power was recently applied following
detection of a failed heating element OR
the water heater is powered and is
turning on heating elements for the first
time by a new controller.
If this LED status persists for significantly
longer than 5 minutes, there may be air
in the tank or the control may be
damaged.
Solid Green
Thermostat satisfied: No faults
Water heater is operating normally.
1 Flash Green then off for 4seconds
Element is on, heating water
Water heater is operating normally.
2 Flashes Amber then off for 4
seconds
Heating element fault detected
Element malfunction
3 Flashes Amber then off for 4
seconds
Power Switch Module Fault
Detected
1) Power Switch Module is not tightly
coupled to tank wall.
2) Power Switch Module is not
functioning correctly.
4 Flashes Amber then off for 4
seconds
Temperature Sensor Fault
Detected
1)
Upper Temperature
Sensor is disconnected.
2) Power Switch Module disconnected.
3) High Temperature limit
has switched open.
5 Flashes Amber then off for 4
seconds
Controller Fault Detected Controller not functioning properly.
6 Flashes Amber then off for 4
seconds
Demand Response Event Active
The CTA device connected to the water
heater is controlling the setpoint. If you
find that the tank is too cold, move the
Setpoint Knob and the control will resume
normal operation.
7 Flashes Red then off for 4 seconds
High Temperature Detected
Upper or lower temperature sensor has
detected an excessive temperature.
*for additional diagnostic steps see the corresponding steps in “Flash Code Utilization for Basic Troubleshooting”.
General Troubleshooting Table
7
7

Flash Code Utilization for Basic Troubleshooting
OFF (LED Not Flashing):
1) Turn “OFF” power to the water heater.
2) Make sure that power is applied to the water heater, if that fails, continue with the next step
3) Remove Control Module retaining screw and inspect the connectors on the back of the Control Module,
making sure that they are properly connected.
4) Inspect the wires leading to the High Limit making sure they are all properly fastened as per the wiring
diagram on the back of the Control Module.
5) Reinstall the Control Module and reapply power to the water heater.
6) If problems persist, Replace the Control Module by following the instructions on page 17.
Alternating Amber-Green Flashes:
1) Make sure tank is fully purged of air.
2) Turn “OFF” power to the water heater.
3) Remove the lower handhole cover.
4) Inspect the Power Switch Module to ensure tight coupling to the tank wall.
5) Replace the handhole cover.
6) Re-apply power to the water heater.
7) If the problem persists, the Control Module needs to be replaced. Follow the procedure outlined on page 17.
Solid Green:
If the control is reading solid green and there is still no hot water, move the Setpoint Knob around and turn it
back to the desired setpoint. This should enable the water heater to enter StartGuard™which will be indicated by
alternate Amber-Green flashes. Or if StartGuard™has already ran, you should see a single Green Flash indicating
that the water heater is currently heating.
2 Flash Amber code:
1) Turn “OFF” power to the water heater.
2) Check elements with multimeter as shown on
page 12
3) Drain water from the tank.
4) Take out elements and inspect them for damage.
Replace if necessary.
5) Install and re-wire elements
6) Replace insulation and hand-hole covers.
7) Refill tank and check for leaks.
8) Re-apply power to the water heater.
TROUBLESHOOTING
WARNING
High voltage exposure. Use caution when
making voltage checks to avoid personal
injury.
8
8

3 Flash Amber code:
1) Turn “OFF” power to the water heater.
2) Remove Control Module retaining screw and inspect the 5 pin connector on the back
ensuring a good connection and that no pins are damaged on the Control Module.
3) Remove the lower handhole cover and check the 3 pin connector on the Power Switch
Module, ensuring that the connector is properly attached and there are no damaged pins
on the Power Switch Module.
4) If connectors were not properly attached, reattach, and skip to step 6.
5) If connectors were properly attached, disconnect the three wires at the lug terminals on the power
switch module.
6) With a multimeter set to the ohms (Ω) setting, check the resistance between terminals 1 and 2 on
the Power Switch Module, as well as terminals 1 and 3. The resistance should be around 50-
80MΩ for each. If the values are lower than that or if there is a large discrepancy between the
two measurements, follow the procedure to replace the Power Switch Module as shown on (page
17)
7) Replace the handhole cover and insulation and button up the water heater.
8) Re-apply power to the water heater.
4 Flash Amber code:
1) Turn “OFF” power to the water heater.
2) Remove Control Module retaining screw and check to see that the 5-pin connector is properly seated.
3) If the connector is properly seated, disconnect the control module from the 2 pin and 5 pin
connectors.
4) Remove the insulation from the handhole.
5) Inspect the connector for the upper temperature sensor and make sure there are no broken or
disconnected wires. If there is damage or a displaced connector, replace the connector.
6) With a multimeter set to the ohms (Ω) setting, measure the resistance between the two terminals
of the temperature sensor. Depending on the temperature of the tank wall, a reading should be
somewhere between 1.2kΩ if the tank is quite hot to around 33kΩ if the tank is quite cold. If
sensor is out of this range, follow the instructions to replace the temperature sensor. If the
sensor is in range, and everything is connected, replace the upper temperature sensor and the
Power Switch Module.
5 Flash Amber code:
1) Move the Setpoint Knob back and forth several times.
2) Cycle power to the water heater
3) If problem persists, replace the control module.
TROUBLESHOOTING
9
9

6 Flash Amber code:
1) If the 6 flash amber code is present, it is okay to leave it as is if the performance of the water
heater is to your satisfaction. If the performance is inadequate, move the Setpoint Knob and
then move it back to its initial position and the water heater will resume its normal operation.
7 Flash Red code:
1) Turn “OFF” power to the water heater.
2) Ensure the tank is filled with cold water.
3) Open the upper handhole cover and check to see if the high limit switch is tripped by following the instructions
in the High Limit (ECO) Testing section on page 13.
4) Inspect connections to the Upper Temperature sensor by following the instructions in the Upper Temperature
Sensor Testing section on page 17
5) Open the Lower handhole cover and follow the instructions on Power Switch Module (PSM)
Testing on page 16.
6) Repeat step 4, this time checking between terminals 1 and 3.
(NOTE) Even if the Power Switch Module is determined to be non-functioning, check the
elements for functionality. This should be done as a potential cause of abad Power Switch
Module is a faulty element.
7) If everything appears to be functioning normally, apply power to the water heater and turn
the control to a setpoint that will allow the control to enter StartGuard™.
TROUBLESHOOTING
10
10

Most common cause for improper electric water heater operation can be linked to heating element
failure.
When troubleshooting an electric water heater with the incidence of “No Hot Water” or “Insufficient Amount of
Hot Water,” It’s always a good idea to check the heating elements first by following the procedure on page 12.
Common Heating Element Failures:
1. Dry Firing. Heating elements must be fully submerged in water before operating at full power. If a heating
element is left partially submerged or completely unsubmerged and allowed is run at full power, the
heating element will be subject to excessive temperatures that will damage or destroy the heating
elements. ICON E™Electronic Control has smart control features to protect heating elements on initial
installation, when a heating element is replaced, or if the tank is periodically drained for service.
2. Grounded Element. An element with ashort circuit to ground will in most cases cause the circuit breaker in
the service panel to open or shut off. In some cases, there may not be enough current draw for the circuit
breaker to open. This will allow the heating element to be in continuous operation resulting in over heated
water, limited only by the ECO or Energy Cut Out. Repeated actuation of the ECO is usually the result of a
grounded element.
3. Sediment build-up. Slow hot water recovery can usually be traced back to sediment or lime build up around
heating element. Sediment build up can also over time cause a dry fired element.
Figure 1 below shows a common “Screw-In” type heating element identifying certain features commonly referred
to throughout this manual.
Figure 1
Typical Direct Immersion “Screw-In” Type Heating Element
TROUBLESHOOTING
11
11

Quick Step to Hot Water
1. TURN OFF power to water heater and check all wire
connections to ensure they are tight and corrosion free.
2. Turn power “ON” and determine that service voltage is
present, and the high limit (ECO) has not actuated.
3. Check for inoperative heating element.
4. Check for proper High Limit (ECO) operation. NOTE: High Limit (ECO) testing procedures assume items 2 and 3
above are in working order.
SYMPTOM PROBABLE CAUSE CORRECTIVE ACTION
No Hot Water
Not Enough Hot
Water
Slow Hot Water
Recovery
Over Heated
Water or
Continuous
Operation
1) No power to heater.
2) Loose wire connections.
3) Inoperative heating elements.
4) Inoperative Power Switch Module
5) Open High Limit (ECO)
1) Temperature set too low.
2) Inoperative lower heating element.
3) Loose wire connection
4) Sediment or lime buildup on element(s).
5) High demand period.
6) Undersized water heater.
7) Very cold inlet water to heater.
8) Plumbing connections reversed.
9) Damaged dip tube.
1) Sediment or lime buildup on element(s).
2) Loose wire connections.
3) Derated heating element installed
4) Inoperative element(s)
5) Poorly coupled Power Switch Module.
1) Temperature set too high.
2) Upper temperature sensor not in contact
with tank.
3) Grounded heating element(s).
4) Inoperative Power Switch Module.
5) Inoperative High Limit (ECO).
6) Undersized water heater.
1) Check all fuses or circuit breakers in
service panel.
2) Check all wire connections.
3) Check heating element(s). Replace as
needed.
4) Check Power Switch Module operation.
Replace as needed.
5) Check High Limit (ECO). Reset or replace
if needed.
1) Increase temperature setting
2) Check heating element(s). Replace as
needed.
3) Check all wire connections.
4) Reduce demand.
5) Replace with larger water heater.
6) Temper water to heater.
7) Correct plumbing connections
8) Check dip tube. Replace as needed.
1) Check heating element(s). Replace as
needed.
2) Check all wire connections.
3) Check Power Switch Module operation.
Replace as needed.
1) Reduce temperature setting.
2Check upper temperature sensor, ensure
good contact with tank.
3) Check heating element(s). Replace as
needed.
4) Check Power Switch Module operation.
Replace as needed.
5) Replace with larger water heater.
Noisy (singing or
hissing) Elements
1) Lime formation on elements. 1) Remove and clean heating elements.
Replace as needed.
TROUBLESHOOTING
WARNING
High voltage exposure. Use caution when
making voltage checks to avoid personal
injury.
12
12

Line Voltage Testing
1. Turn “OFF” the power to the water heater.
2. Remove access cover(s) from front of water
heater. This is done by sliding a flathead
screwdriver underneath the latch at the top
of the cover. Remove insulation and plastic
cover from the High Limit (ECO).
3. Set multi-meter to “Volts AC.”
4. Turn power “ON” to water heater.
5. Check voltage across terminals 1& 3 of
the High Limit (ECO) (see Figure 2).
A) Rated voltage IS present, power to the water
heater is okay.
B) Rated voltage NOT present, Check circuit breaker
at service panel.
Figure 2 Figure 3
High Limit (ECO) Testing
1. Check voltage across terminals 1 & 4 of the High Limit (ECO) (see Figure 3).
A) Rated Voltage IS present, ECO is okay.
B) Rated voltage NOT present, proceed to step 2.
2. Turn power “OFF” to water heater and firmly press ECO reset button on the High Limit (ECO). Turn power “ON” and
recheck voltage across terminals 1 & 4 of the High Limit (ECO) (see Figure 3).
A) Rated Voltage IS present, the ECO has previously opened indicating the water in the tank,
at some point did overheat, review the steps in the 7 Flash Red Code section
B) Rated voltage NOT present, water in tank may be over heated.
1. If water is hot, turn “OFF” power to water heater and flow water through tank to cool below set point
of the High Limit (ECO). Recheck voltage per step 1.
2. If water is cool, Replace the High Limit (ECO).
SERVICE PROCEDURE
Line Voltage & High Limit
(ECO) Testing
WARNING
High voltage exposure. Use caution when
making voltage checks to avoid personal injury.
13
13

High Limit Removal
1. Turn power “OFF” to water heater.
2. Remove access cover and insulation.
3. Remove plastic protector from the High Limit (ECO). This can be done by sliding a flathead screwdriver underneath the
latch at the top, then sliding the screwdriver down to remove.
4. Disconnect wires from the High Limit (ECO) terminals. It may be necessary to label wires for proper re-
connection to new High Limit (ECO).
5. Pull the two sides of the bracket back and slide the High Limit (ECO) upwards and out of the mounting bracket.
High Limit Replacement
1. Use a stiff brush to remove any debris or loose scale from tank surface where new the High Limit (ECO) will be installed.
2. Slide the new High Limit (ECO) down into the bracket until it snaps into place. IMPORTANT! the High Limit (ECO)
must sit completely flat or flush to tank surface. An improperly installed High Limit (ECO) will cause improper water
heater operation.
3. Refer to the wire diagram located on the insideof the access cover and reconnect wires to the High Limit
(ECO). Be sure wire connections are snug and corrosion free. Do not over tighten, doing so may damage
the High Limit (ECO).
4.
Re-install plastic protector.
5.
Re-install insulation and access cover.
6.
Restore power to water heater and verify proper heater operation.
Side View Proper Mounting Side View Improper Mounting
SERVICE PROCEDURE
High Limit Removal and
Replacement
WARNING
High voltage exposure. Be sure power is
“OFF” when performing this procedure.
Front View the High
Limit (ECO)
Mounting
14
14

Testing For Open Or Burned Out Element
Step 1. TURN OFF POWER TO WATER HEATER
Step 2. Remove access cover(s) from front of water
heater. This is done by sliding a flathead
screwdriver underneath the latch at the top
of the cover. Remove insulation and plastic
cover from the High Limit (ECO).
Step 3. Disconnect wires from heating element(s).
Step 4. Set multi-meter to “ohms” setting.
Step 5. Touch probes of multi-meter to screw
terminals of heating element(s)
(see Figure 4).
Step 6. Reading should be 12.8 ohms (±6%) for a 240
volt, 4500 watt element:
Ohms =Volts2
Watts
A reading outside the range using the formula
beyond (±6%), indicates a bad element and the
element must be replaced.
Figure 4
Testing For Heating Element Short Circuit To Ground
Step 1. TURN OFF POWER TO WATER HEATER
Step 2. Remove access cover(s) from front of water
heater. Remove insulation and plastic cover
from the High Limit (ECO).
Step 3. Disconnect wires from heating element(s).
Step 4. Set multi-meter to “ohms” setting.
Step 5. Touch probes of the multi-meter to the screw
terminal of heating element and the other on
the element flange (see figure 5). There
should be no reading on the ohm meter. Any
reading indicates a grounded element and the
element must be replaced. Repeat this step for
the other screw terminal.
Figure 5
SERVICE PROCEDURE
Heating Element Testing
WARNING
High voltage exposure. Be sure power is turned
OFF to water heater prior to performing this
procedure.
Figure
4
15
15

Power Switch Module (PSM) Testing
1. Turn all power to the water heater "OFF"
2. Remove lower access cover and insulation from inside the hand hole.
3. Disconnect the wires at the three screw terminals
4. Set the multi-meter to the Ohms (Ω) setting.
5. Check resistance between terminals 1 and 2 (Figure 6), as well as terminals 1 and 3 (Figure 7) on the Power Switch
Module. This should read somewhere between 25MΩ-150MΩ depending on the quality of multimeter used.
a. If the resistances fall within the specified range and are approximately equal between the two measurements
the Power Switch Module is functioning properly.
b. If one or both of the measurements are out of that range, or they are significantly different (i.e one
measurement reads 50MΩ and the other reads 80MΩ) then the power switch should be replaced.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
PSM Testing
WARNING
High voltage exposure. Be sure power is
“OFF” when performing this procedure.
Figure 6
Figure 7
16
16

Upper Temperature Sensor Testing
1. Turn all power to the water heater "OFF".
2. Remove access cover to upper handhole and remove insulation
3. Check the 5 pin connector on the back of the control to ensure it is connected properly by removing the connector,
inspecting the pins on the control board, and carefully reseating the connector.
4. Either remove the shock protector or flip the protective lid up to access the temperature sensor.
5. Inspect the temperature sensor to make sure that it’s firmly affixed to the tank wall and that the connectors attached to the
wire harness are in good condition.
6. Set the multi-meter to Ohms (Ω).
7. Check the resistance between the two leads (Figure 8). Depending on the tank temperature, the sensor should read
between 1.2kΩ and 33kΩ.
a. If the resistance is out of this range, the temperature sensor and upper limit assembly needs to be replaced.
b. If the resistance is within this range and the connectors look good the upper temperature sensor is functioning
properly.
8. Replace shock protector, insulation, and upper handhole access cover.
Figure 8
SERVICE PROCEDURE
Upper Temperature
Sensor Testing
WARNING
High voltage exposure. Be sure power is
“OFF” when performing this procedure.
17
17

Heating Element Removal
1. Turn power “OFF” To water heater.
2. Turn off cold water supply to heater. Connect hose to drain
spigot of water heater and route to an open drain. Open
anearby hot water faucet to vent heater for draining. Open
drain spigot of water heater and allow heater to drain
to apoint below the element(s).
3. Close drain spigot and remove hose.
4. Remove access cover and insulation.
5. Remove plastic protector from the High Limit (ECO). This can be done by sliding a flathead screwdriver underneath the
latch at the top, then sliding the screwdriver down to remove.
6. Disconnect wires from element terminals.
7. Remove element from tank using 1-½ deep well socket or appropriate wrench. Unscrew element counter-clockwise to
remove from tank.
8. Be sure to remove old element gasket from the tank. It is not recommended to be re-used.
Heating Element Replacement
1. Check element terminal block for proper electrical rating. NOTE: Some elements have dual ratings, be sure to check
all surfaces of the element terminal block (see illustration below).
2. Apply new element gasket to the new element. Be sure gasket is seated flat against element flange without rolls or
gaps (see illustration below).
3. Clean any debris from element fitting on tank. Lubricate element threads as needed with thread lubricant.
4. Thread new element clockwise into tank. Tighten element using 1-½ deep well socket or appropriate wrench. Do not
over tighten, over tightening may damage element gasket.
5. Reconnect wires to element, be sure wires are snug and corrosion free. Do not over tighten, doing so may damage
terminal block.
6. Resume water supply to heater, be sure tank is full of water and check for leaks.
7. Re-install plastic High Limit (ECO) protector.
8. Re-install insulation and access cover.
9. To resume operation, BE SURE TANK IS FULL OF WATER and restore power to water heater. Verify proper heater
operation.
PROCEDURE
Heating Element Removal
and Replacement
WARNING
High voltage exposure. Be sure power is
“OFF” when performing this procedure.
WARNING
Heater components and stored water may be
HOT when performing the following steps in
this procedure. Take necessary precaution to
prevent personal injury.
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Power Switch Module Removal and Replacement
Step 1. Turn power “OFF” to water heater.
Step 2. Remove Screw at top of control module cover.
Step 3. Remove insulation that is behind the cover.
Step 4. Remove wires from the Control module. Noting where the wires go.
Step 5. Take new cover and reverse the procedure to replace the control module.
Diptube Inspection and Replacement
Step 1.
Step 2.
Step 3.
Step 4.
Step 5.
Step 6.
Step 7.
Step 8.
Turn power “OFF” to water heater.
Turn off cold water supply to heater. Connect hose to drain spigot of water heater and route to an open drain.
Open anearby hot water faucet to vent heater for draining. Open drain spigot of water heater and allow
heater to drain to apoint below the inlet connection nipple.
Close drain spigot and remove hose.
Disconnect inlet nipple from plumbing system.
With an appropriate wrench, remove inlet nipple/dip tube from the water heater. Use caution not to damage
nipple threads.
Visually inspect inlet nipple/dip tube. Inlet nipple/dip tube should be free of cracks and any blockage.
Hydro-jets located near the bottom of the dip tube should be open and free of any blockage.
Anti-siphon hole located approximately 6" from the bottom of nipple, should be free of any blockage.
Any damage such as cracks, restriction due to deformation or unintentional holes are not field repairable
and the inlet nipple/dip tube must be replaced.
Upon completion of inspection or subsequent replacement, reinstall inlet nipple/dip tube into heater. Ensure pipe dope
is used on the nipple’s threads. Connect nipple to plumbing system, close spigot and remove drain hose, resume
water supply and refill heater with water.
To resume operation, BE SURE TANK IS FULL OF WATER and turn power “ON” to water heater.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
Dip Tube and Anode Inspection
and Replacement
WARNING
Heater components and stored water may be HOT when performing the following steps in
this procedure. Take necessary precaution to prevent personal injury.
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Anode Inspection and Replacement
Step 1.
Step 2.
Step 3.
Step 4.
Step 5.
Step 6.
Step 7.
Step 8.
Turn power “OFF” to water heater.
Turn off cold water supply to heater. Connect hose to drain spigot of water heater and route to an open drain.
Open anearby hot water faucet to vent heater for draining. Open drain spigot of water heater and allow
heater to drain to apoint below the outlet connection nipple.
Close drain spigot and remove hose.
Disconnect outlet nipple from plumbing system.
With an appropriate wrench, remove outlet nipple/anode from the water heater. Use caution not to damage
nipple threads.
Visually inspect outlet nipple/anode. Outlet nipple/anode should show signs of depletion, this is normal.
If depletion is ½ of the original anode diameter (original diameter approximately ¾”), replacement is
recommended. If any of the steel core of the anode is exposed, replacement is recommended.
Upon completion of inspection or subsequent replacement, reinstall outlet nipple/anode into heater. Ensure pipe
dope is used on the nipple’s threads. Connect nipple to plumbing system, close spigot and remove drain hose,
resume water supply and refill heater with water.
To resume operation, BE SURE HEATER IS FULL OF WATER and turn power “ON” to water heater.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
Dip Tube and Anode Inspection
and Replacement
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