BYOC Classic Phaser User manual

Build Your Own Clone
Classic Phaser
Kit Instructions
Warranty:
BYOC, Inc. guarantees that your kit will be complete and that all parts and components
will arrive as described, functioning and free of defect. Soldering, clipping, cutting,
stripping, or using any of the components in any way voids this guarantee. BYOC, INC
guarantees that the instructions for your kit will be free of any majors errors that would
cause you to permanently damage any components in your kit, but does not guarantee
that the instructions will be free of typos or minor errors. BYOC, INC does not
warranty the completed pedal as a whole functioning unit, nor do we warranty any of the
individual parts once they have been used. If you have a component that is used, but feel
it was defective prior to you using it, we reserve the right to determine whether or not the
component was faulty upon arrival. Please direct all warranty issues to:
[email protected] This would include any missing parts issues.
Return:
BYOC, Inc. accepts returns and exchanges on all products for any reason, as long as they
are unused. We do not accept partial kit returns. Returns and exchanges are for the full
purchase price less the cost of shipping and/or any promotional pricing. Return shipping
is the customer’s responsibility. This responsibility not only includes the cost of
shipping, but accountability of deliver as well. Please contact
[email protected] to receive a return authorization before mailing.

Tech Support:
BYOC, Inc. makes no promises or guarantees that you will successfully complete your
kit in a satisfactory manor. Nor does BYOC, Inc. promise or guarantee that you will
receive any technical support. Purchasing a product from BYOC, Inc. does not entitle
you to any amount of technical support. BYOC, Inc. does not promise or guarantee that
any technical support you may receive will be able to resolve any or all issues you may
be experiencing.
That being said, we will do our best to help you as much as we can. Our philosophy at
BYOC is that we will help you only as much as you are willing to help yourself. We
have a wonderful and friendly DIY discussion forum with an entire section devoted to the
technical support and modifications of BYOC kits.
www.byocelectronics.com/board
When posting a tech support thread on the BYOC forum, please post it in the correct
lounge, and please title your thread appropriately. If everyone titles their threads
“HELP!” then it makes it impossible for the people who are helping you to keep track of
your progress. A very brief description of your specific problem will do. It will also
make it easier to see if someone else is having or has had the same problem as you. The
question you are about to ask may already be answered. Here is a list of things that you
should include in the body of your tech support thread:
1. A detailed explanation of what the problem is. (more than, “It doesn’t work, help”)
2. Pic of the topside of your PCB.
3. Pic of the underside of your PCB.
4. Pic that clearly shows your footswitch/jack wiring and the wires going to the PCB
5. A pic that clearly shows your wiring going from the PCB to the pots and any other
switches(only if your kit has non-PC mounted pots and switches)
6. Is bypass working?
7. Does the LED come on?
8. If you answered yes to 6 and 7, what does the pedal do when it is in the "on" position?
9. Battery or adapter (if battery, is it good? If adapter, what type?)
Also, please only post photos that are in focus.
Copyrights:
All material in this document is copyrighted 2017 by BYOC, Inc.

Classic Phaser Kit Instruction Index
Parts Checklist……………………….................…....page 6
Populating the Circuit Board…….................…...…..page 8
Main PCB Assembly..................................................page 16
Wiring……………………………….........................page 19
Installing the IC/Finishing up………………….......page 25
Operation Overview...................................................page 26
Schematic....................................................................page 27

This is what your kit should look like when it’s complete. Your kit may come with
different color capacitors, switches etc. Don’t be alarmed by this. They all still do
the exact same thing.

Parts Checklist for Classic Phaser Kit
Resistors:
2 - 4k7 (Yellow/Purple/Black/Brown/Brown)
10 - 10k (Brown/Black/Black/Red/Brown)
5 - 22k (Red/Red/Black/Red/Brown)
1 - 56k (Green/Blue/Black/Red/Brown)
6 - 150k (Brown/Green/Black/Orange/Brown)
2 - 470k (Yellow/Purple/Black/Orange/Brown)
1 - 1M (Brown/Black/Black/Yellow/Brown)
1 - 3.9M (Orange/White/Green/Gold)
Visit www.byocelectronics.com/resistorcodes.pdf for more information on how to
differentiate resistors.
Capacitors:
2 - 10n/.01uF film cap (may say “103” on the body)
6 - 47n/.047uF film cap (may say “473” or “47n” on the body)
1 - 10uf Aluminum Electrolytic
1 - 15uf Aluminum Electrolytic
Visit www.byocelectronics.com/capcodes.pdf for more info on how to differentiate
capacitors.
Diodes:
1 - 5.1v Zener diode
IC's:
6 - DIP 8 socket
6 - Single Opamp (TL071, UA741, etc)
Transistor:
4 - 2N5952 or similar JFETs with GSD pinout
1 - 2N3906 or PNP transistor with EBC pinout

Potentiometers: SNAP THE SMALL TABS ON THE TOP OF THE POTS OFF WITH A
PAIR OF NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS
1 - C500k
1 - 250k Trimpot
Hardware:
1 - predrilled enclosure w/ 4 screws
1 - Classic Phaser circuit board
1 - 3pdt footswitch
1 - Knob
1 - AC adapter jack
1 - ¼”stereo jack
1 - ¼” mono jack
1 - battery snap
1 - red LED
4 - rubber bumpers
2 - lock washers (for in and out jacks)
hook-up wire

Populating the Circuit Board
Step 1: Add all the resistors. Resistors are not polarized and can be inserted in either
direction.
Note: Leave out the 22k resistor highlighted in yellow for ‘script logo’ specs, add it
for the later ‘block logo’ specs.

Step 2: Add the diode. Be sure to match the end of the diode with the stripe to
the layout on the PCB. The striped end should go in the square solder pad.

Step 3:Add 4 pin IC sockets. ONLY SOLDER THE SOCKET! NOT
THE ACTUAL IC! This is a socket. The sockets get soldered to the PCB.
The ICs get inserted into the sockets. The actual IC chip itself, never gets
soldered. You will insert the IC into the socket after the entire pedal has
been built.

Step 4: Add the transistors. Orient them so that the flat side matches up with the flat side
on the PCB layout. The transistor highlighted in yellow is the PNP transistor. The
transistors highlighted in red are the JFETs

Step 6: Add the film capacitors. These are non-polarized so it can go in either direction.

Step 7: Add the trimpot. When your build is complete, you will ‘dial in’ the trimpot so
that you get the best sounding phase effect. First, set the trimpot to noon, and slowly turn
it in either direction until you find the range of phase effect. Typically the best setting
would be in the middle of said range.

Step 8: Add the aluminum electrolytic capacitors. These ARE polarized, meaning there
is a positive and negative end. The positive side will have a longer lead and goes in the
square solder pad. The negative side will have a shorter lead and a stripe running along
the body of the cap, and goes in the round solder pad.

Step 9: Add the battery snap. Thread the solder ends of the battery snap
through the strain relief holes from the bottom solder side of the PCB and
out through the top. Insert the solder ends of the battery snap wires into the
topside of their respective solder pads. Solder on the bottom side of the
PCB. Remember the red wire goes in the “+” hole and the black wire goes
in the “-” hole.

Step 10: Add wires to the IN, OUT, RING, and two Ground eyelets. Start by cutting
four 2.5” pieces of wire, and one 1.5” piece. Strip 1/4” off each end and tin the ends.
Tinning means to apply some solder to the stripped ends of the wires. This keeps the
strands from fraying and primes the wire for soldering. Solder a 2.5” piece of wire to
each of the IN, OUT, and Ground eyelets on the PCB. Solder the 1.5” piece to RING
eyelet on the PCB. Load the wires in from the top and solder on the bottom of the PCB.

Main PCB Assembly
Step 1: Mount the AC adapter jack to the enclosure. Your kit may come
with either an external thread or internal thread. Don’t get confused by this.
They still function exactly the same. You just thread the external nut on the
outside and the internal nut on the inside. The picture below is of an internal
nut jack.

Step 2: Flip the PCB over so that the bottom or solder side is up. Insert the
potentiometer and the LED into the bottom side of the PCB. DO NOT
SOLDER ANYTHING YET!!! The LED will have one lead that is longer
than the other. THIS WILL GO INTO THE SQUARE SOLDER HOLE.
C500k
LED

Step 3: Hold the PCB in one hand so that the component side of the PCB is
in the palm of your hand and the bottom side with the pots, toggle switch
and LED is facing up. Now use your other hand to guide the predrilled
enclosure onto the PCB assembly so that the pots and LED all go into their
respective holes. Once the PCB assembly is in place, secure it by screwing
on the washers and nuts for the pots. Only tighten them with your fingers.
You do not want them very tight yet. Make sure you’ve removed the nuts
and washers from the pots and that you’ve also snapped the tabs off the pots
as well.
Step 4: Turn the entire pedal over so that the component side of the PCB is
facing up. Lift the PCB up off the pots about 2mm just to make sure that the
back of the PCB does not short out against the pots. Make sure the PCB is
level and symmetrically seated inside the enclosure.

Step 5: Solder the pots and LED. You will solder these parts on the
component side of the PCB. After you have soldered them in place, be sure
to tighten up their nuts.

Wiring
Step 6: Connect the TIP (negative) terminal of the DC adaptor jack to the
eyelet on the PCB labeled “-“. Connect the SLEEVE of the DC adaptor jack
to the eyelet on the PCB labeled “+” farthest to the right. Connect the battery
disconnect terminal of the DC adaptor jack to the second eyelet on the PCB
labeled “+” located in the middle of the other two eyelets. See diagram on
the next page.