BYOC Chancellor Overdrive User manual

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Build Your Own Clone
Chancellor Overdrive
Kit Instructions
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Warranty:
BYOC, INC guarantees that your kit will be complete and that all parts and
components will arrive as described, functioning and free of defect. Soldering,
clipping, cutting, stripping, or using any of the components in any way voids this
guarantee. BYOC, INC guarantees that the instructions for your kit will be free of
any majors errors that would cause you to permanently damage any components
in your kit, but does not guarantee that the instructions will be free of typos or
minor errors. BYOC, INC does not warranty the completed pedal as a whole
functioning unit, nor do we warranty any of the individual parts once they have
been used. If you have a component that is used, but feel it was defective prior to
you using it, we reserve the right to determine whether or not the component was
faulty upon arrival. Please direct all warranty issues to:
[email protected] This would include any missing parts issues.
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Return:
BYOC, LLC accepts returns and exchanges on all products for any reason, as long as they
are unused. We do not accept partial kit returns. Returns and exchanges are for the full
purchase price less the cost of shipping and/or any promotional pricing. Return shipping
is the customer’s responsibility. This responsibility not only includes the cost of

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shipping, but accountability of deliver as well. Please contact
[email protected] to receive a return authorization before mailing.
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Tech Support:
BYOC, LLC makes no promises or guarantees that you will successfully complete your
kit in a satisfactory manor. Nor does BYOC, LLC promise or guarantee that you will
receive any technical support. Purchasing a product from BYOC, LLC does not entitle
you to any amount of technical support. BYOC, LLC does not promise or guarantee that
any technical support you may receive will be able to resolve any or all issues you may
be experiencing.
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That being said, we will do our best to help you as much as we can. Our philosophy at
BYOC is that we will help you only as much as you are willing to help yourself. We
have a wonderful and friendly DIY discussion forum with an entire section devoted to the
technical support and modifications of BYOC kits.
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www.buildyourownclone.com/board
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When posting a tech support thread on the BYOC forum, please post it in the correct
lounge, and please title your thread appropriately. If everyone titles their threads
“HELP!” then it makes it impossible for the people who are helping you to keep track of
your progress. A very brief description of your specific problem will do. It will also
make it easier to see if someone else is having or has had the same problem as you. The
question you are about to ask may already be answered. Here is a list of things that you
should include in the body of your tech support thread:
1. A detailed explanation of what the problem is. (more than, “It doesn’t work, help”)
2. Pic of the topside of your PCB.
3. Pic of the underside of your PCB.
4. Pic that clearly shows your footswitch/jack wiring and the wires going to the PCB
5. A pic that clearly shows your wiring going from the PCB to the pots and any other
switches(only if your kit has non-PC mounted pots and switches)
6. Is bypass working?
7. Does the LED come on?
8. If you answered yes to 6 and 7, what does the pedal do when it is in the "on" position?
9. Battery or adapter (if battery, is it good? If adapter, what type?)
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Also, please only post photos that are in focus.
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Copyrights:
All material in this document is copyrighted 2020 by BYOC, Inc.

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CHANCELLOR OVERDRIVE KIT
INSTRUCTION INDEX
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Parts Checklist………………………………………page 5-6
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Populating the Circuit Board………………………page 7-14
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Main PCB Assembly………………………………..page 15-19
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Wiring………………………………………………..page 20-27
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Installing the IC's and Finishing Up………………page 28
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Operation Overview………………………………..page 29
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Schematic……………………………………………page 30

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Chancellor Final Stock Build

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BYOC Chancellor Overdrive Kit
Parts
Checklist
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Resistors:
1 - 100ohm (brown/black/black/black/brown)
2 - 680ohm (blue/gray/black/black/brown)
1 - 1k (brown/black/black/brown/brown)
1 - 1k5 (brown/green/black/brown/brown)
1 - 2k2 (red/red/black/brown/brown) (one extra for modification)
3 - 4k7 (yellow/purple/black/brown/brown)
1 - 22k (red/red/black/red/brown)
2 - 47k (yellow/purple/black/red/brown)
1 - 680k (blue/gray/black/orange/brown)
1 - 1M (brown/black/black/yellow/brown)
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Capacitors:
1 - 100pf ceramic disc (small round orange)
1 - 220pf ceramic disc (small round orange)
1 - 470pf ceramic disc (small round orange)
1 - 4n7 or .0047µfilm
2 - 10n or .01µfilm (103)(one extra for modification)
1 - 22n or .022µfilm (223)
3 - 100n or 0.1µfilm (104)
2 - 220n or 0.22µfilm (224)
1 - 10µf aluminum electrolytic
1 - 100µf aluminum electrolytic
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Diodes:
2 - red LEDs
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IC's:
1 - TL072 (or similar dual opamp)
1 - 8 pin socket

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Potentiometers: Be sure to snap off the small tab on the side of each panel mounted
pot. If your pots have covers, remove them before continuing. You might have to cut
a slit in the cover with a blade and use a small screwdriver to get leverage.
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1 - A10k audio (BASS)
1 - A10k audio (MID)
1 - B10k linear (TREBEL)
1 - B100k linear (GAIN)
1 - B100k linear (VOLUME)
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Hardware:
1 - drilled enclosure w/ 4 screws (optional)
1 - BYOC Chancellor overdrive PCB
1 - 3PDT footswitch
3 - knobs (optional)
1 - AC adaptor jack (optional)
1 - LED (optional)
1 - ¼”mono jack
1 - ¼”stereo jack
1 - battery snap
4 - bumpers
hook-up wire

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Populating the Circuit Board
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STEP 1: Add the resistors. Resistors are not polarized, so it does not matter which end
goes in which solder pad. Take your time and be sure not to confuse similarly banded
resistors such as the 100ohm with the 100k or the 680ohm with the 680k. This is a very
common mistake.
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STEP 2: Add the 8 pin IC socket. ONLY SOLDER THE SOCKET! NOT THE
ACTUAL IC! This is a socket. The sockets get soldered to the PCB. The ICs get
inserted into the sockets. The actual IC chip itself, never gets soldered. You will insert
the IC into the socket after the entire pedal has been built.
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STEP 3: Add the 2 red LEDs. These provide the signal clipping. The LEDs will have
one lead that is longer than the other. The longer lead goes in the square solder pad hole.
The shorter lead goes in the round solder pad hole.
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Step 4: Add the film and ceramic disc capacitors. These are not polarized and can be
installed in any orientation, as long as the value is correct. The spots highlighted in
YELLOW are the ceramic disc capacitors. The spot highlighted in BLUE is to be left
empty. That is from a modification that is no longer supported.

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STEP 5: Add the aluminum electrolytic capacitors. These are polarized. The positive
end will have a longer lead and should go in the square solder pad. The negative end will
have a shorter lead with a black or white stripe running down the body of the capacitor.
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By this time, your PCB should look like this

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Step 6: Add the battery snap. Thread the solder ends of the battery snap into the
strain relief holes from the bottom solder side of the PCB and out through the top.
Insert the solder ends of the battery snap wires into the topside of their respective
solder pads. Solder on the bottom side of the PCB. Remember the red wire goes in
the "+" hole and the black wire goes in the"-" hole.
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Step 7: Add wires to the IN, OUT, RING, and two Ground eyelets. Start by cutting four
2.5” pieces of wire and one 1.5” piece of wire. Strip 1/4” off each end and tin the ends.
Tinning means to apply some solder to the stripped ends of the wires. This keeps the
strands from fraying and primes the wire for soldering. Solder a 2.5” piece of wire to
each of the IN, OUT, and Ground eyelets on the PCB. Solder the 1.5” piece of wire to
the RING eyelet on the PCB. Load the wires in from the top and solder on the bottom of
the PCB.

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Main PCB Assembly
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Step 1: Mount the DC adapter jack to the enclosure. NOTE:
You may wish to install the three ¾in. wires used to connect
the adapter to the PCB in Step 6 before mounting.

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Step 2: Flip the PCB over so that the bottom or solder side is up. Insert the
B100k(GAIN), B100k(VOLUME), A10k(BASS), A10k(MID), and B10K(TREB)
potentiometers, and the LED into the bottom side of the PCB. If your pots have
covers, remove them before continuing. You might have to cut a slit in
the cover with a blade and use a small screwdriver to get leverage. DO
NOT SOLDER ANYTHING YET!!! The LED will have one lead that is longer than the
other. The longer lead goes in the hole with the square solder pad.
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Step 3: Hold the PCB in one hand so that the component side of the PCB is in the palm
of your hand and the bottom side with the pots, toggle switch and LED is facing up. Now
use your other hand to guide the predrilled enclosure onto the PCB assembly so that the
pots and LED all go into their respective holes. Once the PCB assembly is in place,
secure it by screwing on the washers and nuts for the pots and toggle switch. Only
tighten them with your fingers. You do not want them very tight yet. Be sure to keep
your hand on the PCB so that it does not fall off the PC mounting posts of the pots and
toggle switch.

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Step 4: Turn the entire pedal over so that the component side of the PCB if facing up.
Lift the PCB up off the pots and toggle switch about 2mm just to make sure that the back
of the PCB does not short out against that pots. Make sure the PCB is level and
symmetrically seated inside the enclosure.
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Step 5: Solder the pots and LEDs. You will solder these parts on the component side of
the PCB. After you have soldered them in place, be sure to tighten up their nuts.

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Step 6: Connect the TIP (negative) terminal of the DC adaptor jack to the eyelet on the
PCB with 3/4 inches of hook up wire. Connect the SLEEVE of the DC adaptor jack to the
eyelet on the far right side of the PCB with 3/4 inches of hook up wire. Connect the
battery disconnect terminal of the DC adaptor jack to the eyelet more towards the center
of the PCB with 3/4 of hookup wire.

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Wiring
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Stereo (input) Jack
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Mono (output) Jack
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Step 1: Install the 1/4” jacks to the enclosure.