BYOC Digital Echo & Ping Pong Kit User manual

BYOC Digital Echo & Ping Pong Kit
Instructions
Parts Checklist……………………..............…….....page 2 - 3
Populating the Circuit Board…………...................page 4 - 11
Assembly………………………………....................page 12 - 13
Wiring the jacks, footswitch, and battery snap......page 14
Mounting the PCB....................................................page 15 - 17
Wiring the PCB……………………….....................page 18
Finish up……………………………..............….......page 19
Schematic, Understanding the circuit and
Troubleshooting........................................................page 20 - 31
Please read through the instructions completely before
beginning this project. This is one of our most difficult kits
and it is a little different than other BYOC kits, so even if you
are an experienced builder, take the time to look these
instructions over...particularly the beginning of “populating
the PCB” and “wiring the jacks, footswitch, and batterysnap”.
Copyright 2008 Build Your Own Clone

Parts Checklist for BYOC Digital Echo & Ping Pong Kit
Resistors:
1 - 100ohm (brown/black/black/black/brown)only use this resistor if you want dedicated
18v operation
1 - 470ohm (yellow/purple/black/black/brown)
6 - 1k (brown/black/black/brown/brown)
2 - 4.7k (yellow/purple/black/brown/brown)
17 - 10k (brown/black/black/red/brown)
1 - 12k (brown/red/black/red/brown)
2 - 15k (brown/green/black/red/brown)
2 - 511k (green/brown/brown/orange/brown)
1 - 2.2M (red/red/black/yellow/brown)
Capacitors:
1 - 47pf ceramic disc
1 - 470pf ceramic disc(471)
4 - .0022uf film (222 or 2n2j)
7 - .01uf film (103 or 10nJ)
2 - .022uf film (223 or 22nJ)
4 - .082uf film(823 or 82nJ)
5 - .1uf tantalum
10 - 1uf aluminum electrolytic
3 - 100uf aluminum electrolytic
1 - 220uf aluminum electrolytic
Diodes:
1 - 1N4001
IC's:
1 - TL082, TL072, 4558 or other dual op amp
1 - 78L05 5 volt regulator (looks like a transistor)
2 - PT2399 echo chip
1 - DIP 8 socket
2 - DIP16 socket

Potentiometers: Be sure to snap off the small tab on the side of each pot. If#your#
pots#have#covers,#remove#them#before#continuing.#You#might#have#to#cut#a#slit#
in#the#cover#with#a#blade#and#use#a#small#screwdriver#to#get#leverage.
2 - B100k linear
2 - B50k linear
Hardware:
1 - drilled enclosure w/ 4 screws
1 - byoc pingpong kit circuit board
1 - 3pdt footswitch
4 - knobs
1 - AC adaptor jack
2 - ¼”stereoenclosed jack
1 - battery snap
1 - red LED
hook-up wire

Populating the Circuit Board
Before you begin: Be aware of a few peculiarities with this particular kit. There are
two resistors that stand on end rather than laying flat and one that will need to be omitted
and jumpered if using 9v. These three are highlighted here in yellow. There are three
aluminum electrolytic caps that get mounted on the underside of the PBC highlighted
here in red. And there are two 1k resistors that actually fit under the DIP16 sockets.
Each of these thing will be discussed in this section of the instructions in due order. So
even if you are an experienced builder, follow the instructions in order.
Step 1: Add the three 1uf aluminum electrolytic capacitors to the underside of the PCB.
Aluminum electrolytic caps are polarized which means they have a positive side and a
negative side. The positive side will have a longer lead and should go in the square
solder pad.
If your kit came with the small black aluminum electrolytic caps, just add them to the
underside of the PCB normally. If your kit came with the larger aluminum electrolytic
caps, you will need to bend them down so that they lay flat against the PCB. You will
need to have the cap sticking up out of the PCB just a little when you solder it so that it
will have enough lead to bend over. The larger caps may be several different colors but
more than likely will either be light blue or black.

Step 2: Omitt the 100ohm resistor if you will be using 9v. Only add the 100ohm resistor if you want
dedicated 18v wall adaptor operation. If you do want dedicated 18v operation, add the 100hm resistor. If
you do not want dedicated 18v operation, you must replace the 100ohm resistor with a jumper. You can
use some of the component clippings left over from the last step.
Step 3: Add the resistors. Resistors are not polarized and can be inserted into the PCB in either direction.
The two 1k resistors highlighted in red will share space with the DIP16 sockets. Triple check to make sure
that you are using the correct value resistors here, because once you install the DIP16 sockets, the resistors
will be very difficult to remove. Note - Omitt the .01uf cap highlighted in red completely.

Step 4: Add the diode. The end with the stripe(cathode) goes in the square solder pad.
The end with no stripe(anode) goes in the round solder pad.

Step 5: Add the IC sockets. Be sure to match up the end of the socket with notch to the layout printed on
the PCB with a notch. Your DIP16 sockets may not seat perfectly if you used too much solder on the 1uf
caps that went on the underside of the PCB or didn't clip off enough of the excess lead. If your DIP16
socket does not seat perfectly, clean up your soldering on the 1uf caps. If it still does not seat perfectly, it's
OK. Just as long as as the pins of the socket make it through the solder pads to the other side of the PCB so
that you can solder them.
Step 6: Add the voltage regulator. Be sure to match the flat side of the component with
the flat side of the layout printed on the PCB.

Step 7: Add the .1uf tantalum capacitors. Tantalum capacitors are polarized. The
positive side will have avery small “+” symbol printed on the capacitor and should go in
the square solder pad.
Step 8: Add the remaining seven 1uf aluminum electrolytic caps. Remember that they
are polarized and the positive end goes in the square solder pad.

Step 9: Add the four .0022uf film caps (small green caps) highlighed in yellow and the
one 47pf ceramic disc cap(small round orange cap)
Step 10: Add remaining fourteen film caps (yellow box caps) highlighted in yellow and
the one 470pf ceramic disc cap (highlighted in orange)

Step 11: Add the larger aluminum electrolytic capacitors. Remember that these are
polarized and the positive end with the longer lead goes in the square solder pad.

Step 12: You should have two resistors left - a 1k and a 10k. These need to be mounted
vertically. They are not polarized, so it does not matter which end goes where.

Assembly
1. Install the jacks first. If you are looking down inside the enclosure, the out jack goes
on the right side and the in jack goes on the left. Place the washer on the outside of the
enclosure. Use a 1/2" wrench to tighten. Orient the jacks so that if you are looking at the
solder lug end of the jack, the bevelled “sleeve” end would be pointing at 2 o'clock , and
the sleeve of the out jack would be pointing at 7 o'clock. The out jack only needs to be
mono so the ring is not used. We use two stereo jacks because it's cheaper for us to buy
twice as many of the more expensive part than it is to buy half as many of the cheaper
part :)

2. Install the AC adaptor jack. The bolt goes on the inside. Use a 3/4" or 14mm
wrench to tighten
3. Install the potentiometers so that the solder legs are facing towards the “footswitch
side”. The washers go on the outside. Use a 10mm wrench to tighten but only snug. Do
not over tighten the pots. You should leave the pots somewhat loose until they are
soldered to the PCB so that it will be easier to mount them.
4. Install the 3PDT toggle switch. It does not matter which side you designate as the
"leading edge" of the switch as long as you orient it so that the flat sides of the solder
lugs are aligned in horizontal rows, not vertical columns and the bat of the switch flips
up and down and not side to side.
5. Install the footswitch. The first bolt and metal washer go inside. The plastic washer
and second bolt go on the outside. It does not matter which side you designate as the
"leading edge" of the footswitch as long as you orient it so that the flat sides of the solder
lugs are aligned in horizontal rows, not vertical columns.

Wiring the jacks, footswitch, and
battery snap
Because it's a little difficult to get to the solder lugs of the enclosed style jacks once the
circuit board is mounted, it's a good idea to wire this portion of the build and leave the
ground and +V wires loose before mounting the PCB.

Mounting the Circuit Board
Step1: Understand that the LED, potentiometers, and toggle switch will be mounted and
soldered directly to the underside of the PCB. If#your#pots#have#covers,#remove#
them#before#continuing.#You#might#have#to#cut#a#slit#in#the#cover#with#a#blade#
and#use#a#small#screwdriver#to#get#leverage. You should do the actual soldering on
the topsid of the PCB. Read through all the steps in this portion before doing anything so
that you can get the “big picture”.
Step 2: Install the LED but do not solder it or clip the leads. You will insert the LED
into its eyelets. Make sure the longer lead goes in the round eyelet and the shorter lead
goes in the square eyelet. Yes this is correct! Longer lead in the round eyelet. Shorter
lead in the square eyelet. Now bend the leads of the LED so that it will not fall out of the
PCB when you flip it over.

Step 3: Now mount the PCB with LED onto the leads of the potentiometers and toggle
switch. This move may take a little finess. It's best to leave them somewhat losely
mounted to the enclosure so that you can easily move them to line up with the eyelets on
the PCB. You may need to bend the leads of the pots into place if they were bent in
shipping.
Step 4: once you have the PCB in place, snug the nuts of the pots and toggle switch with
your fingers.
Step 5: Move the LED into place by guiding it with the leads that are sticking out of the
top side of the PCB.

Step 6: Solder the LED, toggle switch, and pots on the top side of the PCB. Clip the
excess LED leads. Do not clip the leads of the pots.

Wiring the PCB

Finishing Touches
Install the chips. NOTE: The PT2399 chip will likely have a “dot” on one end that is not
a marker that should be used for orienting the chip. Refer to the u-shaped notch when
orienting the chip. The DIP8 dual op amp may have a u-shaped notch, a dot in one
corner, or both for orienting. If the chip has both, always refer to the u-shaped notch
first.
Install the base of the enclosure with the 4 screws that came with your kit. Add the
rubber bumper feet...unless you're a velcro person. Add the 2 knobs. Be sure not to
tighten the set screw inside the knobs too tight or you may strip them. If you've got any
problems that you can't figure out yourself, visit board.buildyourownclone.com for
technical support. Please read the trouble shooting guide first.

Schematic, Understanding the
Circuit, and Trouble shooting
Checking your wiring
1. NO POWER: If you have a completely dead pedal and your LED will not
light up, this is usually a good sign that you are not getting power to the circuit. First you
need to make sure that you are using a fresh battery or good power supply. Even though
this pedal can run on 12v - 18v, let's use 9v for trouble shooting purposes to keep things
simple. Also make sure you have a plug in the IN jack. This acts as your power switch.
Now let's make sure you have a good ground. Set your Digital MultiMeter to test for
continuity. Continuity is the setting where the meter makes a noise when you touch the
two probes together. Now test the “G” locations in the wiring diagram and make sure
that there is continuity between all.
*If you don't get continuity between all 3 locations, you likely have a bad connection
somewhere in the black wire.
Now set your meter to test for 9VDC. Make sure you do not set it to test for AC. And if
you do not have an auto-ranging meter you will need to set it for the proper voltage. You
want to set it to test for the lowest voltage without going under 9V. This will probably be
20V on most meters. With the pedal/footswitch in the engaged position, you should get
approximately 9VDC when you touch the red probe to the POS eyelet and the black
probe to the LED eyelet. You will probably get a little more than 9V with an adaptor and
a little less than 9V with a battery.
If you are not getting a reading here, keep the red probe on the POS eyelet and move the
black probe to one of the “G” locations.
*If you do not get a reading now, you likely have a bad connection somewhere along
the red wire.
If you don't get a 9V reading at the POS and LED eyelets, but you do get a 9V reading at
the POS eyelet and one of the ”G” locations, there is a possibility that you have a faulty
footswitch or a bad connection at lugs 1 and/or 2 of the footswitch. Test for continuity
between lugs one and two of the footswitch. Make sure to press the footswitch on and off
so that you are certain that you are engaging the throw between lugs 1 and 2 one way or
the other.
*If you are getting continuity between lugs 1 and 2, then you likely have a bad
solder joint at lugs 1, 2, and/or the LED solder pad.
*If you are not getting continuity between lugs 1 and 2 regardless of what state the
footswitch is in, then you likely have a faulty foostswitch.