BYOC Digital Echo & Ping Pong Kit User manual

BYOC Digital Echo & Ping Pong Kit
Instructions
Parts Checklist……………………..............…….....page 2 - 3
Populating the Circuit Board…………...................page 4 - 11
Assembly………………………………....................page 12 - 13
Wiring the jacks, footswitch, and battery snap......page 14
Mounting the PCB....................................................page 15 - 17
Wiring the PCB……………………….....................page 18
Finish up……………………………..............….......page 19
Schematic, Understanding the circuit and
Troubleshooting........................................................page 20 - 31
Please read through the instructions completely before
beginning this project. This is one of our most difficult kits
and it is a little different than other BYOC kits, so even if you
are an experienced builder, take the time to look these
instructions over...particularly the beginning of “populating
the PCB” and “wiring the jacks, footswitch, and batterysnap”.
Copyright 2008 Build Your Own Clone

Parts Checklist for BYOC Digital Echo & Ping Pong Kit
Resistors:
1 - 100ohm (brown/black/black/black/brown)only use this resistor if you want dedicated
18v operation
1 - 470ohm (yellow/purple/black/black/brown)
6 - 1k (brown/black/black/brown/brown)
2 - 4.7k (yellow/purple/black/brown/brown)
17 - 10k (brown/black/black/red/brown)
1 - 12k (brown/red/black/red/brown)
2 - 15k (brown/green/black/red/brown)
2 - 511k (green/brown/brown/orange/brown)
1 - 2.2M (red/red/black/yellow/brown)
Capacitors:
1 - 47pf ceramic disc
1 - 470pf ceramic disc(471)
4 - .0022uf film (222 or 2n2j)
7 - .01uf film (103 or 10nJ)
2 - .022uf film (223 or 22nJ)
4 - .082uf film(823 or 82nJ)
5 - .1uf tantalum
10 - 1uf aluminum electrolytic
3 - 100uf aluminum electrolytic
1 - 220uf aluminum electrolytic
Diodes:
1 - 1N4001
IC's:
1 - TL082, TL072, 4558 or other dual op amp
1 - 78L05 5 volt regulator (looks like a transistor)
2 - PT2399 echo chip
1 - DIP 8 socket
2 - DIP16 socket

Potentiometers: Be sure to snap off the small tab on the side of each pot. If#your#
pots#have#covers,#remove#them#before#continuing.#You#might#have#to#cut#a#slit#
in#the#cover#with#a#blade#and#use#a#small#screwdriver#to#get#leverage.
2 - B100k linear
2 - B50k linear
Hardware:
1 - drilled enclosure w/ 4 screws
1 - byoc pingpong kit circuit board
1 - 3pdt footswitch
4 - knobs
1 - AC adaptor jack
2 - ¼”stereoenclosed jack
1 - battery snap
1 - red LED
hook-up wire

Populating the Circuit Board
Before you begin: Be aware of a few peculiarities with this particular kit. There are
two resistors that stand on end rather than laying flat and one that will need to be omitted
and jumpered if using 9v. These three are highlighted here in yellow. There are three
aluminum electrolytic caps that get mounted on the underside of the PBC highlighted
here in red. And there are two 1k resistors that actually fit under the DIP16 sockets.
Each of these thing will be discussed in this section of the instructions in due order. So
even if you are an experienced builder, follow the instructions in order.
Step 1: Add the three 1uf aluminum electrolytic capacitors to the underside of the PCB.
Aluminum electrolytic caps are polarized which means they have a positive side and a
negative side. The positive side will have a longer lead and should go in the square
solder pad.
If your kit came with the small black aluminum electrolytic caps, just add them to the
underside of the PCB normally. If your kit came with the larger aluminum electrolytic
caps, you will need to bend them down so that they lay flat against the PCB. You will
need to have the cap sticking up out of the PCB just a little when you solder it so that it
will have enough lead to bend over. The larger caps may be several different colors but
more than likely will either be light blue or black.

Step 2: Omitt the 100ohm resistor if you will be using 9v. Only add the 100ohm resistor if you want
dedicated 18v wall adaptor operation. If you do want dedicated 18v operation, add the 100hm resistor. If
you do not want dedicated 18v operation, you must replace the 100ohm resistor with a jumper. You can
use some of the component clippings left over from the last step.
Step 3: Add the resistors. Resistors are not polarized and can be inserted into the PCB in either direction.
The two 1k resistors highlighted in red will share space with the DIP16 sockets. Triple check to make sure
that you are using the correct value resistors here, because once you install the DIP16 sockets, the resistors
will be very difficult to remove. Note - Omitt the .01uf cap highlighted in red completely.

Step 4: Add the diode. The end with the stripe(cathode) goes in the square solder pad.
The end with no stripe(anode) goes in the round solder pad.

Step 5: Add the IC sockets. Be sure to match up the end of the socket with notch to the layout printed on
the PCB with a notch. Your DIP16 sockets may not seat perfectly if you used too much solder on the 1uf
caps that went on the underside of the PCB or didn't clip off enough of the excess lead. If your DIP16
socket does not seat perfectly, clean up your soldering on the 1uf caps. If it still does not seat perfectly, it's
OK. Just as long as as the pins of the socket make it through the solder pads to the other side of the PCB so
that you can solder them.
Step 6: Add the voltage regulator. Be sure to match the flat side of the component with
the flat side of the layout printed on the PCB.

Step 7: Add the .1uf tantalum capacitors. Tantalum capacitors are polarized. The
positive side will have avery small “+” symbol printed on the capacitor and should go in
the square solder pad.
Step 8: Add the remaining seven 1uf aluminum electrolytic caps. Remember that they
are polarized and the positive end goes in the square solder pad.

Step 9: Add the four .0022uf film caps (small green caps) highlighed in yellow and the
one 47pf ceramic disc cap(small round orange cap)
Step 10: Add remaining fourteen film caps (yellow box caps) highlighted in yellow and
the one 470pf ceramic disc cap (highlighted in orange)

Step 11: Add the larger aluminum electrolytic capacitors. Remember that these are
polarized and the positive end with the longer lead goes in the square solder pad.