Chandler 543 User manual

®
an er
INSTRUCTION BOOK & PARIS BOOK
TACKERS & BUTTON SEWERS
CLASSES: 543, 546, 548,
552, 554, 555, 558, 560,
600, 660, 710
cJ..ancller ~
CHAN DL ERM~HINE CO
• oyer, mass.Ol432 u. s.a , tel. (617) 772 - 3393
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

CURRENT PRODUCTION MODELS OF
CHANDLER CLASS 600 & 710 MACHINES
FLAT BUTTON SEWERS ...............Model 710-1 ............................... 16 stitch. side vih .. auto clamp lilt.
Model 710-5 ............................... 12 stitch. side vih., auto clamp lilt.
Model 710-10 .............................24 stitch, side vih ..
Model 710-35 ............................. 16 stitch. hack & forth. auto ch1mp hft.
Model 710-55 .............................
16 stitch, cross (X) stitch. auto clump lift.
Model 710-85 .............................
12 stitch, back & forth, auto clamp lift.
Model 710-120 ...........................24
sti~ch, square pattern. auto clump lift.
HOOK AND EYE .............................Model 710-1HE .......................... l6 stitch. side vib .• auto clamp lil1.
Modei710-5HE .......................... l2 stitch, side vib., auto clamp lift.
WHIPPING .......................................Model 710-12 .............................24 stitch. for whipping suit buttons.
NECKING .........................................Model 710-IN ............................ 16 stitch. side vib.
SHANK BU ffON SEWERS ............Model 710-IS ............................. 16 stitch. side vib .. side loading.
Model
71 0-5S ............................. 12 stitch. side vi b .. side loading.
Model710-50 ............................. 12 stitch. hack & forth, front loading.
Model 710-65 ............................. 16 stitch. h<~ck & forth, front loading. shank master.
TACKERS .........................................Model 600-15 .............................6 stitch. back & forth
Model 600-25 .............................8 stitch, back & forth
Model 600-25S ...........................8 stitch, side
vih_-
Model 600-60 .............................6 stitch, side vih.
Model 600-75 ............................. 12 stitch, combination vib., dmpery.
Model 600-750 .......................... 12 stitch. combination vib.. dmpery extra hea 'Y needle
Model 600-75K ..........................
12 stitch. combination vib., drapery knife thread cutter
Model 600-75KD ....................... (both of above)
Model 600-95 .............................6 stitch,
combination Vlb.
BONE RING ..................................... Model600-BR ............................ 12 stitch, back & forth vib.
Model 600-BR.500 .....................
12 stitch, back & forth vih.
Yt stroke for extra large bone rings.
JOKERS ............................................ Model 600- .................................Special machines for attaching labels and other
removable objects. Normally modified square patterns.
BAR
TACK .......................................Model 710-70BT ........................24 stitch zig-zag pattern.
HIG~ LIFT ....................................... Model 658 or 758 .......................Full ~ inch bigger stroke. Designed for extra large shank buttons.
Bulky tacking problems. etc. Specify above machine desired.
Change prefix from "600"
to "651<".
NOTE: Any of the above machines may be equipped with a
built in knife mechanism. Add suffix "K"
TWIN NEEDLE f ACKER ...............Model 660- .................................8 stitch. back & forth,
Please specify needle gauges from
I~ - 2~ in ~,.
increments. Non adjustable.
STAND ..............................................Model 2Tc-600-l ........................Board only
Stand, complete ......................... Complete "H" legs. I IOV.
Stand .......................................... Complete "K" legs. IIOV.
Stand .......................................... Complete "K" legs. 220V.
CLAMPS ........................................... Flat button
Shank button- .. :-.;; .......................Side loaaang ·
Shank button ............................. Front loading (shank master)
Snap ...........................................Adjustable, round or square
Snap ...........................................Non-adjustable, square.
Hook and eye
Whipping
Necking
Tacking
Tacking ......................................
Compensating
Bone ring ................................... Compensating
Flat button ................................. Front part only
This edltion printed 10.1972
~----~------------~CHANDLER~--------------------
NOTE: FOR BUTTONROBOTS, HOPPERS, AUTOMATIC FEEDING DEVICES CONTACT
CHANDLER SALES & SERVICE CO.,
246 7th AVE .• N.Y., N.Y. 10001 TEL. [phone]
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

MECHANICS INSTRUCTIONS
THREADING DIAGRAM
:.. .....
INSTRUCTIONS FOR THREADING
Facing the Machine as shown in the
illustration, proceed as follows:
1 From Spool
A, pass thread thru Spool Stand Arm B.
2
Then forward thru Rear Guide Pin ·C.
3 Slide thread between Rear Tension Disc D on the left hand side
of Tension Post E, then to the right hand side of Pin F as
above in detailed view.
4
Repeat step number 3 for Front Tension.
5 Pass thread forward t·hru hole in Thread Slack Pull-of£ Lever G,
Front Guide Pin H and Thread Guide I in top of Face Plate.
6 Slide thread into slot J and down to the right of Pin K.
7 Pass down and around Roller in Lower Guide Plate L.
8 Insert thru Needle Bar Take-up M (left to right).
9
Thread under Tension Disc Face Plate N.
10 Catch thread in Needle Bar Thread Guide 0 and pass it thru the
eye of the Needle from front to back. (For all models having
Needle Bar Thread Guide)
~--------------~CHANDLER~--------------~
CHANDLERl
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

-CHANICS IISTRUOIOIIS
TIMING LOOPER TO NEEDLE BAR
The usual procedure
for timing the Looper
and
Needle Bar, is
first to time the Loop-
er and then set the
height of the Needle
to the point of the
Looper.
This is ac-
complished as follows:
1
Insert new Needle
fuJl length
of the
Needle Bar hole and
tighten Screw A
(Fig.1)
2 As a preliminary
setting, make sure the
point
of the Needle is
approximately in line
with the center of the
Looper Shaft when the
Needle Bar is at the
1owest depth of its
stroke.
FIGURE 1
t.Boftom ol
(Neeel/e Sirek
FIGURE 2
Adjustment is made by means of Screw B (Figure 1).
FIGURE 2A
3 Turn the machine by hand, rotating the Looper counterclockwise,
thus raising the Needle 5/32 of an inch from the bottom of its
stroke as shown in Figure 2.
At this time, the point of the Lqoper should be barely visible on
the left side of the Needle as shown in Figure 2. To adjust,
loosen Screws C (Figure 3) and rotate Knurled Looper Holder
desired amount in either direction. Tighten Screws C securely.
4 There should be a space of light barely visible between the point
of the Looper and the Needle as shown in Figure 2A. Adjust for
proper
clearance by loosening Screw D (Figure 3) and moving the
Looper in or out the desired amount.
5 As a final
setting, now that the Looper is properly timed in re-
lation to the lift (or up stroke), the Needle Bar can be. readjusted
(as described in preceeding item 2) so that the point of the looper
when passing the Needle is approximately 1/32 of an inch above
the Needle Eye.
This- final setting may have to be varied slightly depending upon
the weight and softness of the thread or material being used.
The break of the loop (or loop formation) at the Needle Eye may
vary
according to the thread used. This will possibly require
setting the point of the Looper closer or further from the eye of
the Needle but within a range of approximately 1/32 of an inch.
----------------~CHANDLER~----------------
CHANDLER2
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

MECHANICS IISTRUOIOIIS
TIMING THE FINGER
Lateral Setting -(Controlled by Barrel Cam I, Figure 3)
1 When the Finger has reached its most forward lateral position, the
point of the Finger should extend approximately 1/32" beyond the
front edge of the slot in the Throat Plate as shown below in
Figure 3A.
To
adjust, loosen Screw EA (Figure 3) and move Shaft F forward
or backward the desired amount. {In moving Shaft F forward, make
sure that Eccentric Finger G does not bind against shoulder of
Eccentric J, otherwise Finger G will have to be moved back the
same amount Shaft F is moved forward.)
Radial Setting -(Controlled by Eccentric J, Figure 3)
2
When the Needle is at the very bottom of its stroke there should
be approximately 1/16" clearance between the Needle and the back
edge of the Finger as shown in Figure 3B.
Tc. adjust, loosen Clamp Screw GA (Figure 3) and move the Finger
into correct position, and tighten Clamp Screw GA securely.
Turning the machine slowlf in the direction of normal operation,
observe carefully that at the instant the point of the Needle has
cleared the Finger, the Finger must start its counterclockwise
movement. The Finger should move backwards and sideways at the
same time. Dotted line in Figure 3C shows approximate path of
Finger point. Barrel Cam I must be adjusted to pull Finger side-
ways at the same time that Eccentric J moves Finger backward.
To
adjust, loosen 3 Set Screws H (Figure 3) and retard or ad'vance
Finger Eccentric on Shaft the desired amount. Retighten Screws
securely after making adjustment.
FIGURE 3
FIGURE 3A
FIGURE 38
Finger moving forward Finger position from
while Needle descending. time Needle enters
Throat Plate hole
and returns.
Dotted II ne shows path
of Finger point. Finger
starts moving backward
and sideways as soon
as Needle clears back
of Finger.
~--------------~CHANDLER~--------------~
CHANDLERS
\
~
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

MECHANICS INSTRUCTIONS
TH R EA D LO CK TIMING ADJUST MENT
\\'hen the Needle Bar
has ascen d ed to within
1/8 or 5/ 32 inch from
the hi ghest po int of
of the Needle Bar
stroke on comp le tion
of the last stroke of
the sewi ng cycle, the
thr ead shou ld be lo cked
by th e fo rward pr essure
of Plunger A against
PI ate B (Figu re 1A).
The Thr ead shoul d be
l ocked wh e n the m ac h-
ine
stops,
the thread
br ea k when
is 1 ift ed.
other wi se
will not
the Clamp
FIGURE lA FIGURE 1
C au t ion : Excessive pressure of th e P l unge r on li ght or w eak thre ad will
have a t ende n cy to frac tur e the thr ead causi ng excessive t hread br eakage.
To a dju st, loose n L oc k Nu t C (F igu re 2) and turn Adj usting Screw D in
or out the des ir ed amount. Be su re to tigh ten L ock Nut C secure ly.
FIGURE 2
N o te : Machi nes are
usually e quipped with
li ght Lo ck Spring for
use on light thread .
For h eavy th r eads us e
heavier Lo ck Spring
(See Plate 1 ).
On r esuming the first
st r oke of the n ew sew -
ing
cycle, the Thre ad
L ock must r elease the
thr ead some time befo re
the Ne edle Bar reache s
the l owest point of
the s t roke so that the
t hread is not he ld ti gh t
when the Take -up E
(F ig ur e 1) above s tarts
i ts r eturn u pward s t roke .
Br
acket F ( Fi g ure 12)
1s
provided with slots
so t hat the Tr ip Lock
Leve r may be re ta r ded
or adv an ce d for proper
ti
ming .
~------ ---- --------~CHANDLERr--- - ------------ -- --~
CHANDLER 4
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

MECHANIC INSTRUCTIONS
FIGURE 1
0
TIMING OF TOP INTERMITTENT TENSION
On the top of the machin e th ere are two thread t ens ion ad justment s ••• Rear
Te nsion B and Front Tens ion A (See Fi gure 1). Rear Tension B is an
intermittent thr ead lo cking t ens ion which lo cks the thr ead prior to the
e nd of each stitch. Thi s pr eve nts the Loop er from s t ea ling thr ead from
Spoo l instead of pulling up the l oop at the end of each stitc h. The
amo unt of tension for l ock ing the thr ead is factory set reasonably tight
by means of Set Screw E (Figure l) therefore, do not dist urb or atte mpt
to utili ze Rear Tension B for adjust in g the n orma l tension expl ained
b elow. However, the time a t which the thread is locked by Tension B
may be adjusted as follows :
Loosen Se t Sc r ew F (Fi gure l) and turn Adjusting Screw G up or down
until Tension B locks the thr ead wh en the Needle Bar has asce nd ed to
within 5/32 of an inch from the top of the Needle Bar s trok e on li g ht
th re ad but l/ 8 of a n inch or l ess on heavy thread.
To prevent thread breakage or ex tr eme ly li ght thread, the Intermittent Ten-
sion s ho uld r elease the thr ead when the Needle Bar is at l eas t 5/ 32 of
an in ch from th e top of its stroke .
ADJUSTMENT OF NORMAL THREAD TENSION
Tightness of the s tit ch is r eg ulated by Front Ten sio n A. If the Tension
Adjus tme nt is too ti g ht the Looper will s n ap the t hr ead, if t oo l oose the
knots on the under side of the b utt on will be l oose. Adjustm ent is made
as fol lo ws :
Turn handwheel at the end of the Mainshaft until Rea r Te n sion B is in
"UP" position. Lower the Button Clamp so the Thread Lock H on the
Face Plate is open (center plun ge r is rele ased ). Pull the thread at the
Need le to be sure it p ull s thru with slight tension. If ten sion is too
tight or too l oose, turn Tension A up or down until prop er tension is
achieved .
~------ ---------- --~CHANDLER~ -- ----------------~
CHANDLER 5
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

MECHANICS INSTRUOIONS
FIGURE 1
STOP KICK-OFF FINGER MECHANISM
On completion of the Button Sewing Cycle, Latch A shou ld release Block
B (Figure 1) just as Stop Finger C (Figure 2) has cleared Bumper Spring
Holder D. The illu stration shows an earlier model but the same in
st ruction s will apply to all models .
To advance moment of rel ease, loo se n Screw E (Figure 1) and move
Kick-off Finger F to the l eft,
To retard moment of release, move Kick-off Finger F· to the right. Tight-
en Screw E securely.
FIGURE 2
~----------------~CHANDLER~---------------- ~
CHANDLER 6
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

AUTOMATIC CLAMP LIFTER MECHANISM
Automatic Operation
To s et the automatic clamp lift er mechanism
in th e automatic operating po s it ion (or s in gle
pedal contro l) insert stud A in th e forward hole
of
connecting strap B as illu s trat ed in Fig. 1.
With st ud A in this pos ition , the amount of
clamp lift is controlled by l oose ning ch eck nut
C a
nd turning adj ustin g nut D in or out as re-
quired,
Adjustment of the amount of cl amp lift may
n
ecessi tate a compensating adjustment of the
thread s lack kick pin H Fig. 2 in ordet to main-
tain the proper amount of thr ea d take-off.
The automat ic lifter actuatin g br acke t E Fig. 1,
controls the timing of the lo wer in g of the clamp
in rel ation to th e first needle bar scroke, and
the rising of the clamp on the final ne ed le bar
s
troke. For proper timing, loo se n two sc rew s
F Fig. 1 and swing bracket E so th at it s drop-
off
point is approxim ately on the centerli ne of
the roller G as shown in Fig. 1A .
FIGURE 2
MECHANICS INSTRUCTIONS
FIGURE 1 FIGURE lA
Manual Operation
To convert th e m ac hine from automatic to
manual cl a mp lift (or two peda l contro l) re-
mov e nut 1 Fig. 1, lift connecting st rap B and
insert st ud A in hole X. RepLace nut I and
tighten sec urely. Th e automatic function is
no w inoperative, s tnce roller G no longer
contacts bracket E.
Ad ju stment for the amount of clamp lift is now
made by
me ans of the a dju sting s crew in the
li f tin g .bracket 543-213 lo cated in the b ase of
the m ac hin e (See parts plat e 9).
Ei ther of the above adjustments may ne cess itat e
a compen
sat in g ad ju st ment of the thread sl ack
kick pin H Fig. 2 in order to maintain the proper
amo unt of thr ead take -off.
~--------------~C HANDLER~---------- ------~
CHANDLER 7
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

BASIC COMMON PARTS
I 2857-95
1 543-33
8 543 - 32
10 543-31
11 543-28
12 543 - 27
/8
19
20
21
22
23
543-37
24
54
25
26 543-
CHANDLER 8
CHANGES: 08 .1 972
1. was 543 -1 002A
2. was 543-35
3. was 543-35
4. was 543-84
5. was 543-1002A
HEAD and TENSION DETAILS
2 856-144 21
2 857-93 31
~32
.
S EE PLATE 2.
2 857-97 33
(old 543- 43)
2BS6- 93
34
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

I 543 - /006
2 543-69
7 543 - 64
8 543-65
9 543-1010
II
12
13
14
Nudls
No.7 Hsa1
No.5 Ligh
15
16
543-200/
17
18
/9
20
21
22
BASIC COMMON PARTS
NEEDLE BAR DRIVE MECHANISM
* Omitted on
Later Models
543-10
543-68
543-66
3 /
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
~----------------~CHANDLERr-----------------~
CHANGES:08.1972
1. was 543-1003
CHANDLER 9
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

®
BASIC COMMON PARTS
CLAMP LIFT and THREAD SLACK MECHANISM
2 543 08 038
8
9
10
II
12
15
.....:::5;__;4...:::..3.......:-8::....::9...:...:A._,
18-
CHANDLER 10
CHANGES 08.1972
1. was 543-90
2. was 543 -92A
3. was 543-84
' I
24
25
26
27
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

BASIC COMMON PARTS
AUTOMATIC THREAD LOCKING MECHANISM
2 543-/96
13
0
14
15
16
2856-71 @
/1
/8
SEE PLATE 3
5 543-144
6
1
8
/9
20
21
l.
2857-161 22
®
@
/0 543-1021 23
* FOR TWO NEEDLE T AC K ER U SE NO. 5 60 -40 4
CHANDLER
CHANGES: 08.1 972 CHAN
DLER 11
1. was 543-90
2. was 5 43-90
3. was 54 3-169
4. was 543-- 1012
5. was 5 4 3 - 10 1 ~
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

G>
B ASIC CO MMON PARTS
LOOPER and FINGER MECHANISM
2 543 - 1002
6
7
543-137
8
543-2
10
II
17
543-!24A
2856-400 4
18 543-141
CHAND LER 12
CHANGES: 08. 1972
1. was 543 -1 21 & 122
543-4273
In 1968 nee dl e plate was chan ge d to one pi ece
2. was 543- 205
3. was 54 3- 1016
--C-HA_N __ D~L-=E=--R
4. was 54 3- 1018
5.
was 543-15 1
6.
was 543-135
7. was 54 3- 1003
552-320 20 <D
543 - /32 21
2857- 161
24
®
25
26
®
29
20L6-90 JT (J)
552-315 38
552 - 320 J9
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

CD
®
BASIC COMMON PARTS
1 552-336
FoR CLAss 552 AND LATER MoDELS
543-326 22
552-328 2J
7 552-325
8 543-187
9 543-209
543-10028
II 543-330
/J--!:::....:..:::_-.=2 _ ___ ----.,
552 - 337 24
543-1002825
543-
28
JO
J/
No Shouldu (N~w Sly!~) 543-140;-:A - ~ --- ~~ §.j_~'Qg?._~,B
Sho ulder Stud 543-140
~---------- -- ---- ~ ~C~H~AN~D~L~E~R~ -------- --------~
CHANGES: 08 .1972 CHANDLER
13
1. was 552-329
2. was 543-1002A
3. was 543-184
Q)
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

CD
<D
@
BASIC COMMON PARTS
12 ------..
552-313
13 543-1010
16
543-/9A
2BS7-161
17 -------,.
STOPPING MECHANISM
NOTE: BELOW SPRING STOP DISCONTINUED
IN 1948.
SEE FOLLOWING PAGES FOR LATER
MODIFICATIONS.
NEEDLE TACKER
* USE NO. 560-402
T USE N0.560-403
L------------------4CHANDLER~-- ------ --------~
CHANDLER 14
CHANGES: 08.1972
1. was 543-169
2. was 543-20
3. was 543-1018
4. was 543-235 (a!ter 1970, "C" clips used)
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

BASIC COMMON PARTS
STOPPING MECHANISM FoR CLASS 552 MACH.
2 543 08 036
4 52-4000
5 552-1006
INTRODUCED 1952
543-391
7~~-~4~0~0~0--------~~ -
8~~~0~0~6 · ------~~------~ -
*_5::....;5::....:;2:..._-.=....3:....::1 8"-/
II
12 552-1010
FOR TWO NEEDLE TACKER
* USE NO. 560-429
t USE NO. 560- 403
552-33514
552-3002 ' 15
552-309 16
~------------------~CHANDLERr-----------------~
CHANDLER 15
CHA NGES: 08.1972
1. was 543-311, also see assy dwgs
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

BASIC CO-ON PARTS
STOPPING MECHANISM FOR CLASS 600 MACHINE
INTRODUCED 1971
~-----------600-335
~~---------552-3002
~~---------600-309
600-332A
WASHER
FOR THOSE WISHING TO CONVERT THEIR CLASS 552
CUSHIONSPRING HOLDERS, PART NO. 600-323 ADAPTER
MUST BE PURCHASED. (spring no. 552 -332 will be
discontinued. )
CLASS 552 REBOUND FINGER STOP GUIDE (552-309)
WILL BE REPLACED BY A NEW ONE ( 600 - 309) ,
WHICH IS HEAVIER. NEW SCREWS MUST ALSO BE
PURCHASED (600- 335).
SEE PAGE 34 FOR ASSEMBLY NUMBER FOR
COMPLETE UNIT.
~----------------~CHANDLER~--------------~~
CHANDLER16
CHANGES: 08ol972
1. was 552-311. also see assy dwgs
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

BASIC COMMON PARTS
TREADLES and TRIP LEVERS
<D
543-94 2855-177
/6
g)
2 543 - 213
543-2002 17
3 543-2002
543 -1018
18
4 543 -10 /9
543-2002 19
5 543-10/9
543 - 1021
20 ®
6
21
7
543 -200 2 2
8
9
1010 24
25
II
26
/2
27
13
543-226
28
14
29
15
30
~-- -- ------ ---- --~~ CHruA~N~D~L&E~Rr--- -- ---- ------ --~
CHANDLER 17
CHANGES: 08.1972
1. was 543 -9 3
2. was
54 3-7 9
3. was B S-7 7
4. was 543-1019
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

®
OPTIONAL - NOT FOUND ON ALL MACHINES
AUTOMATIC CLAMP LIFTER
GROOVE PIN
4 555-380
5
6
7 555-377
8 543-3001
543-1023
9
II 555-382
555-387 13
. 555-381 14
543-2000 15
543-220A
543-2005
552-367
555-378 /6
555-379 17
543-200018
555-383 19
543-241 2 0
~ -- --------------~CHANDLER~------------------~
C HA NDLER 18
CHANGES: 08 .1 972
1. was 543
-101 6
2. was 543
-101 8
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC