Chandler DARNER User manual

OPERATING
INSTRUCTIONS
for the
CHANDLER DARNER
All Models
ckax:dler Mi-..-.
Ayer,
CO.
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KNOW YOUR DARNER!
Read these instructions carefully and
thoroughly before operating machine.
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CHANDLE
A - Top Thread Tension K - Motor
B - Take-up Lever L - Bobbin Winder
C - Top Thread Guide
M - Bobbin Winder Tension
D - Face Plate
N - Thumb Screw for
Thread Hook
Tilting Head
E - Needle Bar
O - Hand Wheel
Thread Guide
P - Spool Pin (Rear)
F - Presser Foot Lifter
Adjustment
R - Take-up Spring
G - Needle Clamp Screw
S - Latch Sleeve
H - Presser Foot
T - Presser Foot
1 - Spool Pin (Front)
Thumb Screw
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To Thread the Machine
Fig. 2
Pass the thread from the thread-stand hook through the spool
pin I, through upper thread guide C and down behind lower thread
guide I. Next lead the thread to the right of and between the two
tension washers A, drawing the thread to the left and then up into
the take-up spring and again behind thread guide I. Now lead the
thread through the hole in the take-up lever B, and down the face
of the machine through guides D and E. Finally, draw the thread
through the eye of the needle from LEFT to RIGHT.
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To Remove the Bobbin
Turn the hand wheel toward you imtil the needle
bar is in its uppermost position. Then lift up on latch A
(Fig. 4) located under the nickeled sleeve S on the mend
ing arm. This allows the bobbin case holder to fall back
on its hinge releasing the bobbin case.
Lift up hinging clamp F (Fig. 3) with the fingernail
and shake out the bobbin.
To Wind the Bobbin
To wind the bobbin, place it on the spindle of the
bobbin winder L(Fig. 1). Now lead the thread from the
guide pin I down the front of the machine, to the left
of and between the tension discs M, and up to the bob
bin. Wind the thread around the bobbin a few times by
hand, and then raise the bobbin-winder unit against the
hand wheel belt. The tension spring will hold it in this
position.
Then release the hand wheel for winding the bobbin,
by placing your left hand on the hand wheel and with
your right loosening the hand wheel knob, a quar
ter turn toward you or until it is free. This will allow the
hand wheel to turn without running the rest of the ma
chine. After the bobbin has been wound, the knob must
be retightened.
If the machine is already threaded, the operator may
save rethreading the machine by winding the bobbin by
the following alternate method:
1. Release thread tension by raising the hand
lifter W(Fig. 8).
2. Then, remove the thread from the needle and draw
the thread from the last thread guide E(Fig. 2) to
the tension discs M and up to the bobbin on the
winder arm.
Always lower the bobbin winder unit to save un
necessary wear against the belt.
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Fig. 3
To Thread the Bobbin Case
Hold the bobbin in the right hand between the thumb
and forefinger with the thread drawing off at the bottom
toward the right. With the left hand hold the bobbin case
with the hinge "F" opened.
Now insert the bobbin on the center stem E, draw the
thread through slot D and under the tension spring C.
Care should be taken to see that the thread is under
the spring.
From the spring, lead the thread to the projection on
the bobbin case and draw it through the hole B. The
bobbin case is now threaded and ready to be placed in
the machine.
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To Replace the Bobbin Case
And Complete Threading
Fig. 4
After the bobbin case is threaded, take it in your left hand and
place it onto the bobbin case holder. The projection of the bobbin
case should lie in the cut-out of the holder.
Retaining your hold on the thread will keep the bobbin case
lying in the proper position while closing the bobbin case holder.
To close, merely snap up the bobbin case holder so that the
retaining latch will lock it in place.
Before closing latch, make sure no accumulated thread is in
the hook, and be sure the needle is in its uppermost position. If the
needle is down, the latch will not close and any attempts to force it
will break the needle.
Hold top thread and turn machine by hand one full revolution,
drawing bobbin thread up through needle hole in sleeve. Lay both
threads under presser foot to the rear.
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To Begin Mending
With the machine properly threaded, you are now ready to
begin mending. A few pieces of scrap material should be used to
become accustomed to the feel of the machine.
Lift up the presser foot by means of the hand lifter "W" (Fig. 8)
and insert the material to be darned beneath the presser foot.
Then release the hand lifter to lower the presser foot in operating
position. A slight pressure to the knee or foot rheostat will start
the machine.
Fig. 5
The correct method of holding the material is shown above.
The fingers should be held as close to the presser foot as the hole
to be mended will allow. This method of holding prevents
the material from wrinkling and allows better control of the cloth.
Now oscillate the material, first forward and back and to finish,
from side to side.
After the mend is completed, lift up the presser foot, turn the
hand wheel toward you until the needle clears the material.
Draw the material out and break off the threads.
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Procedure In Mending A Hole
When mending a hole, it is always best to run a row
of stitching around the hole to tie down the loose threads.
This is especially true in the case of materials which hove
a tendency to run, as in socks.
Next sew across the hole forward and back until the
hole has been covered with straight rows of stitching all
in the same direction.
Now go over the hole again in the opposite direction
moving the cloth from side to side to form stitching at
right angles to that previously done. The illustration
shows the steps in darning a hole.
f'y I
^ y 'jr Jil
1 • - ' » £ yj
Fig. 6
Be sure to catch the thread in the material on BOTH
sides of the hole. Never go half way across the hole and
return to the same side. Be sure you catch the thread on
the other side before crossing back again over the hole.
The material must be kept in motion at all times, as to
stop the cloth will pile the stitching in one spot and cause
the thread to break.
The operator may find other methods of darning more
suitable, depending on what one finds most convenient,
but always bear in mind that fast movement of the cloth
with the machine running at slow speeds makes large
stitches, while slow movement of the cloth with the
machine running at high speed makes fine stitches. The
operator must become accustomed to moving the cloth in
relation to the speed to make neat, even stitches that
result in perfect mending.
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Some holes may be too large for darning with thread
alone. In this case mend by patching, darning around the
patch after trimming stray threads or folding back the
edges to the underside. Then trim off the corners of the
patch on the underside of the material.
Use of the Flat Work Plate
When there is a great deal of flat work to be mended,
you will find the Chandler Flat Work Plate of real value.
(Page 19). To install this plate simply lift up the presser
foot. Be sure the needle is at its highest point and slide
the plate on to the sleeve of this machine. The sleeve
will fit in the cut-out in the plate. Then tighten the clamp-
screw at the bottom of the yoke, and the plate is set for
sewing. This plate will be found to be a great help where
a larger surface is needed than provided by the sleeve
of the machine. Some operators use the plate in mending
with patches, as the extra surface allows free and con
venient handling of the patch under the article to be
mended.
To Regulate the Tensions
The small thumb nut in front of the tension discs A
(Fig. I 6c 2) is for regulating the top thread tension. To
tighten the top thread tension, turn this nut clockwise
and to loosen the tension turn counter clockwise.
The tension on the bobbin thread is regulated by
the small spring tension screw A (Fig. 3) located in the
center of the bobbin case thread tension spring C (Fig. 3),
Take the small screw driver furnished with the ac
cessories and turn this screw to the left to loosen the bob
bin thread tension and to the right to increase the tension.
The correct tension on the bobbin thread is deter
mined by hanging the bobbin case by the thread. If the
tension is too loose, the bobbin case will slide down the
thread. The correct tension is one which will allow the
bobbin to be shaken down the thread. If the bobbin can
not be shaken down the thread, the tension is too tight.
The usual procedure is to set the bobbin tension
first and then the top thread tension is adjusted until the
stitch on the under side of the material is perfect and no
loops are formed as decribed in the following paragraphs.
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Tensions
Perfect stitching depends to a great extent on the
proper adjustment of the thread tensions. The machine,
as it comes to you, has the tensions properly adjusted,
but you will need to readjustthem frequently, depending
on type of material sewed and thickness of thread used.
If the stitching is correctly done and the tensions are
properly adjusted, the threads should meet in the center
of the material, as shown by A (Fig.7).
B
3000L
Fig. 7
If the top thread is too tight or the bobbin tension is
too loose, the bottom thread will be pulled to the top of
the material as illustrated in C(Fig.7).
When the top thread is too loose or the bobbin
thread is too tight, the bobbin thread will lie along the
under side of the material as shown in B(Fig.7), or it will
form loops. When the top thread is too loose, causing
these loops to appear, the darning will appear to be
bunchy and will not give the appearance of a neat job.
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Presser Foot Adjustiiieiit
The knob F (Fig. 8) is an adjustment built into the machine to
enable it to work on the heaviest as well as the lightest materials
by making only the simplest oi adjustments. The machine, as it
comes to you, is adjusted ior light and medium work. When such
heavy work as nets, coats, blankets, over-alls, and aprons is
encountered, raise the presser loot by means of the hand lifter W
and take hold of the adjusting knob F (Fig. 8), Pull this knob out
and turn a half turn toward you; the adjustment knob will then slip
into its new position.
On returning to light work, this adjustment must be returned
to its original position.
V LF
Fig. 8
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Motor Belt Adjustment
In order to get the maximum speed and power from
the motor, it is essential that the motor belt is correctly
adjusted. If the belt is too tight, it will cause unnecessary
wear of the bearings, belt, and motor shaft and also
slow down the machine. If the belt is too loose, the belt
will slip and fail to bring the machine up to speed.
The tension of the belt may be adjusted by means
of the motor lock screw. Loosen this screw and bring
the motor to the position desired and retighten. It is a
good policy to also tighten the motor hinge pin screw,
as this will give additional resistance to the motor being
pulled out of adjustment.
Needles
The needles furnished with the machine are of the
size *16 and as a rule will be found to meet all the usual
requirements. Size #14 is obtainable for very fine
mending, and sizes #18 and # 20 for very heavy work,
such as nets, coarse cloth and coveralls.
Size
Class of Work
Size of Thread
20
Heavy work, overalls, coats, nets,
trousers, etc.
40 and heavier
16 and 18 All
general work
80 to 40
14 Fine work, shirts, linens, etc.
60 to 80
11
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To Set the Needle
Turn the hand wheel toward you until the needle
bar is in its uppermost position. Then insert the needle
into the hole in the needle bar with the FLAT SIDE of the
shank toward the needle clamp screw. Make sure that
the needle is pushed up into the hole as far as it will go.
Now clamp the needle in this position by means of the
needle clamp screw.
Thread
A good grade of thread should be used with the
machine. If the thread is rough or uneven, or, if it passes
with difficulty through the eye of the needle, the suc
cessful use of the machine is interfered with.
Left twist thread should always be used, and the
thread for both the needle and the bobbin should be of
the same size. A 60 (GO) thread can be used for general
purposes. It should be soft, mercerized and not contain
any hard qualities. A 40 (0) thread is heavier and can be
used for mending coats, aprons, nets and other heavier
materials. A 40 (0) thread should not be used for socks,
linens, etc., as this work requires the finer thread. See
paragraph under "needles."
Oiling and Lubrication
To insure the life of the machine, all parts which
are in movable contact with each other should be oiled
at least once a day. A fine, light oil should be used which
12
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you can obtain from the factory or any authorized agent.
All oil holes are plcdnly marked with the exception of
the motor bearings at each end of the motor. These bear
ings should have a few drops of oil occasionally all de
pending on the amount of use that the machine has. Do
not over-oil the motor.
A drop of oil should be applied every day to the
raceway of the hook. This prevents undue friction and
also helps prevent upper thread breakage.
Once or twice a month we recommend the applica
tion of a light grease or gear lubricant to the two sets of
gears in the machine. The top gears may be reached by
moving the nickeled plate at the top rear of the machine
to the side; the bottom gears by removing the base thumb
screw N (Fig.l) and tilting the machine back.
Do not use a cheap oil, and also keep away from
heavy motor oils, as this gums the machine and causes
it to run slow and overstrain the motor. Always use a high
grade sewing machine oil.
To Oean the Hook and Bobbin Unit
At regular intervals it is necessary to clean out the
thread and lint which will accumulate in the hook and
bobbin unit inside the nickeled sleeve on the mending
arm. We recommend that this be done at the end of each
working week.
Remove the retaining screw on the sleeve S (Fig.l)
and slide off the sleeve from the end of the arm. Clean
the unit of all thread and lint. When replacing the sleeve
be sure that the needle lines up with the hole in
the sleeve before tightening the retaining screw.
To Qean Base Plate
Excess oil will run from inside the machine to the
base. To prevent this excess oil from flooding onto the
table and soiling goods to be mended, it is a good policy
to wipe out the base weekly. To do this, remove the thumb
screw N (Fig.l) and tilt machine back.
13
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Thread Breakage
Occasionally some thread breakage might occur. In
this case check the following for the trouble:
1. Top thread tension too tight.
2. Remove bobbin and check to see that it has proper
tension and correct threading,
3. Wrong thread. Either wrong twist or too heavy for
needle being used.
4. Follow top thread back from needle to see if it has
been double twisted around any of the thread guides.
5. Be sure no cord, box nor other obstruction is lean
ing against or is contacting thread cone causing
undue and uneven thread release from the cone.
6. Check needle to see if it is properly placed in needle
bar. Flat part of needle must be to the right, on the
same side as the needle clamp screw.
7. Run finger nail along needle point and check for any
small burr or bent point. If burr is felt, remove and
replace with new needle.
8. Do not continue to sew in one spot; do not let the
machine run any length of time on the same spot of
material.
9. In darning across a hole, be sure to catch the thread
on either side. Do not darn half way across and re
turn to the same side. The loose loop of the thread
will be carried down to the hook by the needle and
snap your thread.
10. Too violent motion of the cloth or sudden jerks of
the material will snap the thread in the eye of the
needle.
11. Remove the nickel-plated sleeve and check point of
hook to see if needle has struck it to cause a burr on
its point. Use a fine stone to remove any burr on hook
point. Do not use a file. Hook should not be removed
nor loosened unless point is actually broken off,
14
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INSTRUCTIONS
for
TIMING, ADJUSTING, AND CHECKING
THE MECHANICAL SETTINGS.
All mechanical settings should be left
strictly alone, and should not be tampered
with. The following pages are only for those
who must replace essential parts or for those
who have experienced trouble in operating
their machines and wish to double check
on the mechanical settings to see if the
machines are properly adjusted.
Important replaceable Parts illustrated at
the end of these instructions
15
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Top Thread Tension Assembly
DM-67 Assembly
Details of
DM-67 Assembly
-NOTE-
Position of J)M-67 Assembit/ is correct tuben top of
Check Sprinff@ is opposite Center Line of Set Screuit^
as il/ustrated obore... To obtain this position, Loosen Set
Screu! @ and rotate DM-67 Assemb/y the desired amount.
Then tiyhten Set Screm @ securely.
When ossemb/iny details —Before tiyhteniny Set Screut
rotate Stud^) until Spriny (^positions itself ayainst lotuer
shoulder ujith a very sliyht tension. Otherujise Spriny(^
ujill have no tension and us ill 'float' in the s/otted open
ing of the Tension Barrel @ .
16
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Machine Timing
-y NEEDLE TO HOOK
/ "sr£P
'Remoye Sereuis(2)@
take o/y Face P/ate and Latch S/eeve.
Z"^3TEP
Making sure the Need/e is up into Needle
Sar as far as possib/e, turn machine until
timing mark © Fig. 2 onCrank Head© /is- ^
direct/gintineuiith Pin(^as shouin inFig.2.
Ht this time the point of
Hook © Fig. 2 shou/dbeat
j ^^ the lierticai Center Line of.
\f iTi\ W Needle and 'f/e of an
\ aboye the Needle £ye
' L r\ // shouin in enlarged yiem
I Nig. ZH and at the center
j of the scarf in the Needle
gA as shouin beloin in Fig. 2B.
J To make these adjust-
(y ments, proceed as aut--
\ 1 lined be/oui in step .
Fig. 2A
Fig.2
d'l P 4
.lArcM Sceiye
Fig. 2B
ISeAEr ^
lin NecBiE
ii4arAiiiiiici!s
TCliahaucs
•3k 0 _
Yokc PssenOLy
Fig. 3
Loosen dScreuist^Fig^ and turn Hook(^
to L eft or Right on Shaft @ the desired amount.
Noui check for Yes of an mch clearance be —
tuteen scarf in Needle and point of Nook
as shouin in Fig. 2B.
To adjust lateral position of Hook and Yokej
loosenSet Screui@ Fig.3 and more entire
Yoke Assembly in or out on Shaft @ making
certain that hub of Hook shoulders firmly
(^omst the Yoke at point @ Figs.kB and 3•
Tighten3 Screuis © and Set ScreuiQ) Fig.3
securely making certain thai you do not
bind Hook and Shaft bu too much pressure
atO).
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Bobbin Clearance
I^^STCP
The clearance betiueen Sobb/n
Holder!^ and £obbin @ at (^(See
F'iffs. I and JA) should be approximate
ly '/az ofan inch.
To adjust c/earance, Joosen Set Screiu
(^(nearest one toujords operator of
three Set Screius on underside of Yoke
Castiny) F7y.l and turn Eccentric
Screu!@ rightor /eft until the desired
c/earonce is obtained. Then tighten
Set Screui@ securely.
For Chanbler Darner
Class - /46
Si j/cr
The amount of clearance between the inside crown
ed ends of Adjusting Sereuis(^and £obbin^)at(x^
(SeeF/gs.J and JA) shouldbeJust sufficient to alloia
the thread to pass between them. 7b adjust, loosen
Lock liutsand turn Adj. Screw (^untHit tightens
on Bobbin Case - then loosen about W of a turn. - hold
in position with screwdriver and tighten Lock Huts.
-NOTE-
Excessive clearance at (xi^ Tig. JA
will
Cause rattling of BoMin Case(^.
For Chanbler Darner
Ciass-/36-I3S-I40 AND 144-
Fiq.1
Fig. JA
Fig. 2
STEP
Adjust for clearance at
point F'ig IA by means
of Adjusting Screuis(^Fig 2
using same procedure as out
lined in the above B^^STSP.
/ STEP
The clearance between Bobbin
Holderf^and Bobbin @at @(See
F'gs 2 and IA)shauldbe app/vximafe'
Ig '/as of an inch. 7b adjust, loosen
L ock Nut @ Fig. 2 and turn Thread-
ed washer @ in or out until the
desired clearance is obtained. Holding
Threaded Washer @ in position^ tighten
Lock Hut secure/g.
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