Chef's Choice 2100 Operating instructions

InstructIons
15 Degree Sharpening Module
for use on Chef’sChoice®Model 2100 Commercial Sharpener
Read these instructions before use.
It is essential that you follow these
instructions to achieve optimum results.
© 2011 EdgeCraft Corp.
Module shown inserted in Model 2100 Sharpener.
(Sharpener not included).

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INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE OF 15° SHARPENING MODULE
EdgeCraft offers the 15° detachable sharpening module designed specially to place a factory
quality edge on Japanese, Asian style knives and all other 15° knives. It can be used inter-
changeably on the Model 2100 Sharpener with the standard 20° module designed for the
European/American style blades and all other 20° knives. The 15° module is identical in size
to the 20° module and it can be removed or installed on the guide rails of the Model 2100 as
described in the Model 2100 manual.
The 15° Japanese/Asian module can be used for either straight edge or serrated edges,
how-ever the 20° European/American module is recommended for sharpening serrated blades
because serrated blades are predominantly manufactured with 20° edge angles to provide
greater support for the individual serrations.
While Asian style knives have historically been sharpened at about 15 degrees at the factory and
European/American style knives have been made with 20 degree edges, very recently leading
German factories have introduced European style knives edged at 15°.
Remove the standard 20° European/American module from the 2100 sharpener and install the
15° Japanese/Asian module as described in the Model 2100 Instruction Manual pages 11-12.
UNDERSTANDING THE DIFFERENCE – EUROPEAN/AMERICAN
AND JAPANESE/ASIAN STYLE KNIVES
In general you will find that Euro/American blades shown in Figure 1 are sturdier than the more
delicate and thinner contemporary Asian blades as illustrated below. The variation among
commercially available knives of any type is great and in fact some Euro/American blades are
very thin and certain Asian knives have a thicker cross-section designed for heavier work. Before
you begin to sharpen a knife, it is important always to identify the type of edge needed — 15 or
20 degrees, and utilize the correct sharpening module and procedure.
1. EUROPEAN/AMERICAN STYLE BLADES — 20 DEGREE EDGES
While most of the Euro/American style knives (shown
on the right), Figure 1 have a thick cross-section
designed for heavier work, the range of blade thick-
ness in these familiar blades is great and certain
of these knives, such as the conventional paring,
fillet and utility blades, have a relatively thin cross-
section well suited to their intended application.
European/American style straight edge blades are
double beveled (sharpened on both sides of the blade)
and usually are edged at 20°. Some recently
introduced European styled knives however are
edged at 15 degrees. Check the knife carefully
before sharpening.
Figure 1. European/American blade.

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2. CONTEMPORARY ASIAN STYLE KNIVES — 15 DEGREE EDGES
The more popular contemporary Asian blades; the
thin, light weight Santoku and Nakiri for example are
generally double faceted, sharpened at 15 degrees
on both faces of the blade, as shown in Figure 2.
Occasionally Santoku knives are sold with single
facets (Figure 3) but these are not readily available
in the United States.
There are other but somewhat heavier double-
faceted Asian knives, the Deba and Gyutou, popular
in Asia, which are used for chopping hard vegetables,
for tailing and filleting fish and for meats. These are
basically Asian chefs knives designed for heavier
duty work but sharpened at 15 degrees. The Chinese
cleaver is included in this class.
3. TRADITIONAL JAPANESE STYLE KNIVES — 15 DEGREE EDGES
The traditional Japanese knife is single beveled and
has a large factory made bevel A along one face of
the blade above a small edge facet. These are sold as
either right handed or left handed versions as shown
in Figure 3. The large wide factory bevel A is ground,
commonly at about 10 degrees. The most popular
example of this type blade is the sashimi knife also
known as Yanagi and Takohiki, designed as shown to
the right. This lengthy, slicing blade is ideal for prepar-
ing very thin slices of raw tuna or salmon. The back
side of this blade is commonly slightly hollow ground.
A small single cutting edge facet of about 15º is creat-
ed along the front face of the edge of the sashimi blade
as shown in Figures 3 and 4 in order to establish the
geometry of the cutting edge. An even smaller cut-
ting micro-facet (barely visible to the unaided eye) is
customarily created on the back face of the blade to
enhance the sharpness of the finished edge. Figure
4 shows a greatly enlarged cross-section view of a
typical factory edge on the traditional single-bevel
Japanese knife. The large factory bevel A serves
to deflect the food slice away from the blade as it
is cut. When sharpening the traditional Japanese
blades, always follow the instructions carefully. Also
remember these knives will be extremely sharp.
SHARPENING FIRST TIME WITH 15° JAPANESE/ASIAN MODULE
With this 15° module inserted on the Model 2100 and before you turn on the power, you might
want to become familiar with this sharpener. Slip a 15° edge knife smoothly into the slot
between the left angle guide of Stage 1 and the knife guide spring (see Figure 5). Do not twist
the knife. Move the blade down in the slot until you feel it contact the diamond disk. Pull it
toward you, lifting the blade handle slightly as you approach the tip. This will give you a feel for
the spring tension that guides the knife.
Figure 2. Double faceted contemporary Asian blades.
Figure 3. Single beveled traditional Asian blades.
Figure 4. Cross-section of a typical factory traditional
Asian knife edge, magnified 50x (right-handed). Both
the front edge facets and microfacet are restored in the
sharpening stage.

HOW TO SHARPEN CONTEMPORARY ASIAN EDGED BLADES –
USE 15° MODULE
STAGE 1 – SHARPENING (CONTEMPORARY DOUBLE FACET 15° ASIAN BLADES)
Always clean the blade before sharpening. Turn “ON” the sharpener. A red “indicator” on the
switch appears when the switch is turned “ON”. Pull the knife once thru the right slot of Stage
1 by slowly slipping the blade into the right slot as described above, while moving the blade
downward and toward you in that slot until it engages the diamond coated disk. Insert the blade
into the slot as close as possible to its bolster or handle. If the blade is curved, lift the handle
slightly as you sharpen near the tip of the knife keeping the knife section being sharpened
approximately parallel to the table. Sharpen the entire blade length. For an eight (8) inch long
blade each pull should be about 6 seconds. Adjust the pull time proportionately for shorter or
longer blades. Next, repeat with one full length pull in the left slot of Stage 1.
You should always pull the knife blade toward you as you insert it into the slot. Never push the
blade away from you. That combined motion insures uniform sharpening along the length of the
bade. Apply just enough downward pressure to make contact with the abrasive wheels – added
pressure does not improve or speed the sharpening process. The sharpener is designed to
provide automatically the optimum sharpening pressure. Always insert the blade near the
bolster or handle and keep it moving as you pull it at a steady rate until it exits the slot.
Always make an equal number of pulls, alternating pulls in the left and right slot of Stage 1 in
order to keep the knife edge facets symmetrical.
Figure 6. When you create a distinct burr along the
blade edge, it can be detected by sliding finger across
and away from the edge. Caution! See text.
Figure 5. Sharpening Santoku and contempory
15 degree European style knives, first in both slots of
Stage 1.
15° Santoku Style
Contemporary 15° European Style
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Generally in Stage 1, only five (5) pair of pulls – five (5) pulls in left slot and five (5) in right
slot, alternating pulls on left and right slots – will be adequate to sharpen the edge in this
Stage. More pairs of pulls may be needed depending on how dull the edge is. However, before
proceeding to Stage 2, it is very important to confirm that there has been sufficient sharpening
in Stage 1 to create a burr along the entire knife edge.
DETECTING THE BURR
In order to confirm that a burr exists along one side of the knife edge, move your forefinger
carefully across the edge as shown in Figure 6.
If the knife is fully sharpened in Stage 1 a burr will appear on one side of the edge. If the last
pull of the knife was made in the left slot (for example) a burr will be created along the left side
of the edge (as you hold the knife when sharpening). The burr will feel like a rough and bent
extension of the edge. There will be no burr on the opposite side of the edge – the opposite side
of the edge will feel very smooth by comparison. If the last pull was in the right slot, the burr will
be present on the right side of the blade edge.
If no burr exists on the blade edge, make one more pair of pulls in the left and right slots of
Stage 1 and check for a burr. If necessary make additional pairs of pulls in Stage 1 until a burr
is detected on the appropriate side of the edge. Very dull knives will require more pairs of pulls.
Slower pulls will usually help develop the burr. Do not proceed to Stage 2 until you have formed
a burr along one side of the edge.
HONING IN STAGE 2
Make two pairs of pulls in Stage 2, alternating each pull in the left and right slots (Figure 7).Take
about 3 seconds for each pull with a 5 inch (12.5 cm) long blade. Adjust the pull time proportion-
ately for shorter and longer blades. Two pairs of pulls usually is sufficient.
Check for a burr before proceeding to Stage 3. (As necessary make additional pairs of pulls to
develop a burr along the entire length of blade before proceeding to Stage 3.) See section above
on “Detecting the Burr.”
STROPPING/POLISHING THE EDGE IN STAGE 3
Pull the blade through the left slot of Stage 3 (Figure 8) and then through the right slot of Stage 3.
Make 6-8 pairs of pulls, alternating each pull in the left and right slots. You should take about 3-4
seconds for each pull for a 5 inch (12.5 cm) long blade. For the best edge, apply only light pressure
on the knife on each pull, just enough to maintain good contact with the Stage 3 rotating disks.
Figure 7. Honing contemporary knife in both slots of
Stage 2.
Figure 8. Stropping/Polishing contemporary knife in
Stage 3.

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Then make two pair of faster pulls in this Stage, taking about 1 second per pull for a 5 inch blade
to put a final polish on the edge.
Check the edge for sharpness. The edge should now be burr-free and exceedingly sharp.
RE-SHARPENING CONTEMPORARY ASIAN STYLE BLADES – USE 15° MODULE
Re-sharpen the contemporary Asian style 15° blades (which have the double facet edge) follow-
ing the procedures above starting with “Honing in Stage 2” and followed by “Stropping/Polishing
the Edge in Stage 3.” Make certain you create a burr in Stage 2 before moving to Stage 3.
If the knife is extremely dull start to re-sharpen first in Stage 1 and follow the instructions
thru Stage 2 and 3. Test the finished edge for sharpness.
SHARPENING THE TRADITIONAL (SINGLE BEVEL)
JAPANESE BLADE – USE 15° MODULE
Traditional Japanese knives such as the sashimi blade shown here are single sided and have a
large factory bevel (see Bevel A, Figure 3) on the front side of the blade.There are a large number
of manufacturers of knives of this type used widely to prepare sashimi. The factory bevel (Bevel
A) is commonly factory ground at about 10 degrees, but there are exceptions and that angle is not
standardized at the factories.Designs of the traditional Japanese knives and the detailed structure
of the cutting edges likewise vary widely from one manufacturer to the next, however there are
some similarities.The cutting edge consists of a small primary facet on the front face of the blade
along the bottom edge of the large factory bevelA and a much smaller secondary microfacet along
the back face. Commonly the back-side microfacet (Figure 4) can be easily seen only with a hand
magnifier. The back face is ground flat at the factory or more commonly it is slightly hollow
ground to ensure that an effective microfacet can be formed there as part of the cutting edge.
Because of the lack of standardization, the manual approach used to sharpen these knives in
Asia has proven difficult, laborious and time consuming. The 15° module is designed to sharpen
all traditional Asian blades and to create a factory-quality edge.
Before you start to sharpen a traditional blade, examine it carefully in order to confirm that you
have the traditional single bevel blade and to determine whether you have a right or left handed
type as described on page 2 and 3, Figure 3. It is essential that you follow carefully the sharpen-
ing procedure and sequence as described below in order to achieve the optimum edge on your
traditional blade.
Again confirm which side of the blade has the large factory Bevel A. Hold the blade in your hand
(as when you are cutting) and if the large factory bevel is on the right side of the blade, the blade
is right handed. For the right handed blades start sharpening in the left slot of Stage 2 so that
only the large beveled side (right side) of the edge will contact the honing wheel.
Sashimi blade

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STEP 1
START HONING TRADITIONAL JAPANESE KNIVES IN STAGE 2 (RIGHT HANDED BLADES)
(DO NOT USE STAGE 1 — see note)
In this example which assumes your traditional blade is right handed, you must hone only in the
left slot of Stage 2 (see Figure 9). The number of pulls that you need to make depends on the
factory angle of Bevel A (Figure 3 and 4) and how dull your blade may be.
Make five (5) to ten (10) pulls in only the left slot of Stage 2 (3-4 seconds each for 6” blade) and
then check for a burr along the back side of the blade edge. (The burr created in Stage 2 will
be small but easily felt as shown in Figure 6. Make certain the burr is present along the entire
length of the edge. If there is no burr or only a partial burr, continue to make additional pulls all
in the left slot about five (5) at a time and check for a burr after each group of five (5) pulls. In
general 20-30 total pulls in the left slot will be adequate to raise a burr; it is unlikely to take more
than 50 left slot pulls to create the burr. When a burr is confirmed, proceed to Step 2.
STEP 2
STROPPING/POLISHING THE FINAL EDGE ON TRADITIONAL JAPANESE BLADE IN STAGE 3
(RIGHT HANDED BLADE)
a. Make five (5) regular pulls 3-4 seconds each only in the left slot of Stage 3 (Figure 10) and
then proceed to remove any burr as follows:
b. Make one (1) regular pull in right slot of Stage 3 along the back side of the edge.
c. Make several fast pulls (one [1] second each) in the left slot of Stage 3.
d. Make one (1) fast pull in the right slot of Stage 3.
Check the blade carefully for sharpness using a thin sheet of paper. The blade should be razor
sharp. If not razor sharp repeat c and d above and retest the blade for sharpness.
NOTE: If your right handed traditional blade is excessively worn or if the edge is chipped and
irregular you can use the left slot of Stage 1 to recondition the edge. Use the left slot only (for
right handed blades). Make as many pulls as necessary to reestablish a smooth uniform edge
line. Use a black felt pen to mark the right facet and follow progress of sharpening the facet
along the edge until edge line is restored. Then proceed in Stage 2 and 3 as described on page
6 and on this same page above.
RESHARPENING THE TRADITIONAL JAPANESE BLADE (RIGHT HANDED)
In general you will be able to resharpen quickly by following the sequence a thru d of Step 2 in
the preceeding section. Repeat this if necessary to obtain a razor sharp edge. When resharpen-
ing only in Stage 3 fails to develop a sharp edge or if the edge has been substantially dulled you
Figure 9. Honing a right-handed traditional Japanese
knife in left slot of Stage 2. Read instructions.
Figure 10. Stropping/Polishing a traditional right handed
Japanese knife in left slot of Stage 3. Read instructions.

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will need to re-hone the edge in Stage 2. Use only the left slot of Stage 2. Generally you will find
that about five (5) re-honing pulls will be sufficient in Stage 2. In any event develop a burr before
moving back to Stage 3. Finish the edge in Stage 3 following Steps a, b, c, d.
SHARPENING LEFT HANDED TRADITIONAL BLADES
The procedure you must use with left handed blades is similar to that procedure for right handed
blades as detailed above – Except, in all cases the slots you must use are reversed. Where the
sharpening procedure for right handed blades calls for use of just the left slot, you must use only
the right slot when sharpening a left-handed blade. Likewise where the right handed instruc-
tions call for using the right slot, use the left slot when sharpening a left handed blade.
DRESSING OF STROPPING/POLISHING DISKS – STAGE 3
The 15° sharpening module is equipped with a built-in system to manually clean/dress the
stropping/polishing disks in Stage 3. In the event these disks become glazed with grease, food
or sharpening debris, they can be cleaned and reshaped by actuating the manual lever on the
rear of the sharpener. This lever is located as shown in Figure 13 on the lower left corner as
you face the rear of the Sharpener. To actuate the cleaning/dressing tool, make sure the power
is “ON” and simply press the small lever in the recess to the right, hold about 3-4 seconds and
then press to the left and repeat for 3-4 seconds. When the lever is moved in one direction, the
dressing tool cleans and reshapes the active surface of one stropping/polishing disk. By moving
the lever in the opposite direction you clean the other disk.
Use this clean/dress mechanism only if the Stage 3 white disks are seriously darkened and
when Stage 3 no longer appears to be stropping/polishing well. Using this tool removes material
from the surface of the Stage 3 disks and hence, if used excessively, it will unnecessarily
remove too much of the abrasive surface, wearing the disks out prematurely. If that should occur,
factory replacement of the module will become necessary. If you clean your knives regularly
before sharpening you may need to clean or dress the Stage 3 disks less than once a year.
CLEANING THE SHARPENING MODULE
When the Sharpening Module becomes soiled or contaminated it should be removed as
described and cleaned of food and grease by either of the following two methods:
A. Washing by Hand:
1. Spray the wheels in each stage with liquid dishwasher detergent.
2. Then spray or flood under running water long enough to loosen any attached food, etc.
3. Rinse or spray under a strong stream of warm water.
4. Drain on paper towels.
5. CAUTION… if you elect to towel dry, use care not to loosen or damage the plastic
hold-down spring.
6. If after hand washing the diamond wheels are not bright and shiny they may still have
grease on them. In that event you should consider putting the sharpening module
through a dishwasher.

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B. Dishwasher: The Sharpening Module is designed to be washed safely in either
domestic or commercial type dishwashers
1. Spray the wheels in each stage with liquid dishwasher detergent.
2. Put in upper shelf of dishwasher on normal wash cycle.
3. Allow Sharpening Module to dry in the dishwasher, in a position remote from the heaters.
Periodically remove any metal dust that has collected in the two collection cavities that are
located in the base of the sharpener, below the Sharpening Module. With the Sharpening Module
removed, simply invert the motor housing and shake the dust loose. Otherwise remove with a
damp sponge. Because of the proximity to the electrical motor we do not recommend the use
of a water spray or compressed air to remove the loose swarf (metal filings) from the base of
the sharpener
INSERTING SHARPENING MODULE
To reinsert the Sharpening Module into the main motor housing, insert the shaft coupling end of
the Sharpening Module into the guide rails at the right end of the sharpener. Then gently push
the Sharpening Module toward the motor housing until it locks in place. If it resists snapping
into the locked position: (1) Pull the module away from the motor shaft until it fully disengages;
(2) Turn the motor switch ON briefly; (3) Then turn it OFF; (4) While the motor is still coasting to a
stop, push the Sharpening Module into place. It will then automatically snap into position when
the spline coupling becomes properly self-aligned.
SUGGESTIONS
1. There is no maintenance required other than for hygene reasons to remove and clean the
Sharpening Module as described regularly in the sink or dishwasher. It is unnecessary to
clean this module simply because the honing wheels darken – that is normal. The wheels
are self cleaning (through mild ablation) unless they become covered with fat and grease.
The need for cleaning can be minimized by wiping your knives before and after sharpen-
ing as described in this manual. NEVER immerse the motor-drive unit in water. Periodically
shake out the metal dust under the sharpening Module as described under “Cleaning the
Sharpening Module.”
2. Always clean all food, fat and foreign materials from the knife blade surfaces before
sharpening or resharpening. If badly soiled, use detergent and water to clean.
3. Some contemporary Asian knives and Granton type blades are dimpled and some
contemporary and traditional Asian blades are made of layered Damascus steel. All of
these should be sharpened accordingly to these instructions depending solely on whether
the knife style is contemporary (two facets) or a traditional single facet Asian blade.
4. Always pull the blades at the recommended speed and at a constant rate over length of
blade. Never interrupt or stop the motion of the blade when in contact with abrasive disks.
5. Carefully follow the detailed procedures for each type blade for best results and to extend
the useful life of your knives. The sharpening sequence is especially important with the
single sided traditional Asian blades.

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6. The edge of the knife blade, while sharpening, should remain in contact with the abrasive
disks as the knife is withdrawn from the guiding slot. To sharpen the blade near the tip of a
curved blade, lift the handle up slightly as you approach the tip of the blade but just enough
so that the edge as it is being sharpened maintains audible contact with the honing or
stropping disk.
7. To increase your proficiency with the Chef’sChoice®15° sharpening module, learn how
to detect a burr along the edge (as described on page 4 and 5). While you might be able
to sharpen well without using this technique, it is the best and fastest way to determine
when you have sharpened sufficiently in the preliminary steps. This will help you avoid
oversharpening and ensure incredibly sharp edges every time. Cutting a tomato or a piece
of paper is a convenient method of checking for finished blade sharpness.
8. Use only light downward pressure when sharpening – just enough to establish secure
contact with the abrasive disk. Greater pressure does not speed the sharpening.
9. If your knife has a significant choil you may find it helpful to place your index finger within
or just behind the choil (see Figures 11 and 12) as you insert the blade in the sharpener.
Your finger can act as a “stop” and prevent you from inserting the blade so far that the
choil area will catch on the front stop-bar of the sharpener as you withdraw the blade.
A little practice will help you perfect this technique. As you insert the blade let your finger
slide down the front of the sharpener.
Figure 12. Insert your index finger as shown behind the
choil as the knife is inserted into the sharpening slot
(see Suggestion 8.)
Figure 13. Use dressing tool sparingly — see text.
Figure 11. If your blade has a significant choil it may
be helpful to place our finger behind it as shown
when sharpening.
Choil

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10.Used correctly, you will find you can sharpen the entire blade to within 1/8” of the bolster
or the sharpener handle. This is a major advantage of the Chef’sChoice®Model 2100
compared to other sharpening methods—especially important when sharpening chef’s
knives where you need to sharpen the entire blade length in order to maintain the
curvature of the edge line. If your chef’s knives have a heavy, thick bolster near the handle
extending to the edge, a commercial grinder can modify or remove the lower portion of the
bolster so it will not interfere with the sharpening action, allowing you to sharpen the entire
blade length.
11.The stropping/polishing disks in the Stage 3 are designed to last for years of use, however
you can maximize their useful life by periodically modifying your sharpening pattern in Stage
2. The burr developed in Stage 2 will mildly wear the stropping polishing disk it first contacts
in Stage 3. Vary your last pull in Stage 2 by sometimes making the last pull on the left disk
and at other times finish on the right disk of Stage 2.
12. Do not attempt to use this sharpener to sharpen either ceramic knives or any scissors.
SERVICE
In the event post-warranty service is needed, return your sharpener to the EdgeCraft factory
where the cost of repair can be estimated before the repair is undertaken. Outside the USA,
contact your retailer or national distributor.
Please include your return address, daytime telephone number and a brief description of the
problem or damage on a separate sheet inside the box. Retain a shipping receipt as evidence of
shipment and as your protection against loss in shipment.
Send your sharpener (insured and postage prepaid) to:
EdgeCraft Corporation
825 Southwood Road
Avondale, PA 19311 U.S.A.
NORMAL MAINTENANCE
NO lubrication is required for any moving parts, motor, bearings or sharpening surfaces. There
is no need for water on abrasives. The exterior of the sharpener may be cleaned by carefully
wiping with a soft damp cloth. Do not use detergents or abrasives.

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the product. Chef’sChoice®and EdgeCraft®are registered trademarks of the EdgeCraft Corporation.
© EdgeCraft Corporation 2011
D11 I218202
®
EdgeCraft Corporation
825 Southwood Road, Avondale, PA 19311 U.S.A.
Customer Service 610-268-0500