CircuPool Universal UL-25 Operating instructions

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Saltwater Chlorination System - Installation and Operation Guide
Models: UL25 UL40 UL55
Universal
Universal Series Salt Systems
Advanced Swimming Pool Sanitation

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TABLE OF CONTENTS
SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS 3
INTRODUCTION 4
GETTING STARTED 4
SYSTEM OVERVIEW 5
WATER CHEMISTRY & SALT LEVELS 6
Preparing the Pool Water 6
Ideal Salt Level & Pool Size 6
Adding Salt 7
Ideal Water Chemistry Levels 8
OPERATION 9
How it Works 9
Initial Start Up 9
General Operation 9
Using the Control Module 10
LED Indicator Lights 10
LCD Display 11
MAINTENANCE 12
Expected Maintenance 12
Cleaning the Electrolytic Cell 12
General Maintenance 13
INSTALLATION 14
Overview 14
Installing the Electrolytic Cell and Flow Switch 15
Installing the Control Module 16
Wiring 16
VOLTAGE CONVERSION 18
INSTALLATION CHECKLIST 19
HELPFUL HINTS 20
TROUBLESHOOTING 21
WARRANTY 23

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SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS. Read and follow all instructions. Ensure all owners / operators of this
equipment have access to these instructions. Save all instructions. When installing and using this electrical
equipment, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the following.
•WARNING: Follow all aspects of local and National Electrical Code(s) when installing the CircuPool UNIVERSAL
Series. Disconnect all electrical power during installation & service.
•WARNING: To reduce the risk of injury, do not permit children to operate this device. Service should only be
attempted by a qualified professional.
WARNING: Heavy pool (and/or spa) usage and higher temperatures may require higher chlorine output to
maintain proper free available chlorine residuals. The actual amount of chlorination required by your pool can
change, and varies according to factors not limited to bather load, rain, temperature, dirt, debris, and chemical
balance.
WARNING: Safe operation of the electrolytic Cell requires a minimum water flow rate of 20 gpm. Never operate
the unit when the flow of water is restricted. Always turn unit off when operating any plumbing control valves
such as for backwashing, water exhaust, or during operation of spa or water features. If operation restricts water
flow to the Cell, a build-up of flammable gases will result in hazardous conditions.
WARNING: We strongly recommend against the use of isolation valves. If full pump pressure is applied to an
isolated component, it may be prone to rupture. Turn off all pumps before changing valve positions. Prevent
water pressure spikes at Electrolytic Cell.
•Before installation, ensure that materials and equipment used in and around the pool are compatible with the
use of chlorinated water and salt. Avoid high chlorine and high salt levels (above the recommended range); it is
possible that certain materials and pool (and/or spa) equipment may be susceptible to damage.
•Ensure that the chlorinator operates only when the circulation pump is operating. When installed with a pool
equipment timer or control system, wire the Control Module (wall unit) to the load side of the timer clock or
control relay.
•If additional chlorine is required (due to heavy bather loads, for example), use Sodium Hypochlorite to maintain
an appropriate chlorine residual in the water.
•DO NOT add acid or other concentrated chemicals directly to the skimmer. This may damage the Cell.
•Check the expiration date of any test kits as test results may be inaccurate if used after that date.
•When replacing the Cell, only use replacement Cells having a label that clearly states that it is the replacement
for this UNIVERSAL Series model.
•Proper pool chemistry must be maintained at all times. For outdoor pools, chlorine residuals can be protected
from destruction by sunlight by addition of stabilizer (cyanuric acid).
•The use of dry acid may damage the salt Cell and is not recommended. When using liquid acid, always add acid
to water, never water to acid.
•For proper sanitation, spas must be completely drained periodically. The number of days between COMPLETE
SPA DRAINAGE is equal to the volume of the spa water in gallons, divided by 10 times the maximum number of
daily spa users. Refill spa with water and repeat initial startup instructions on pages 6-8 of this manual.
•Ensure that the UNIVERSAL Series installation does not constitute a cross connection with the local potable
water supply. Consult local plumbing codes.
•Note: Some local codes may require external grounding source. Check your local ordinances.
•To reduce the risk of electric shock, the ground wire (green wire) on the power cord must be connected to the
grounding means provided in the electric supply service panel.
•One bonding lug for US models is provided on the external surface. To reduce the risk of electric shock, connect
the local common bonding grid in the area of the swimming pool, spa, or hot tub to these terminals with an
insulated or bare copper conductor not smaller than 8 AWG US.

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Universal Series Owner's Manual
Congratulations on your recent purchase of a CircuPool UNIVERSALSeries Electronic Chlorine Generator. CircuPool’s
high performance systems offer escape from the routine of manual pool chlorination and sanitization. The
UNIVERSAL Series uses a very low level of salt in the pool water to continuously create free chlorine, killing bacteria
and algae in the water and thereby helping to maintain a sparkling clean pool. Please take a moment to read through
the entire manual before installing your new unit. Your generator must be installed and operated as specified.
READ ENTIRE MANUAL FIRST - To ensure consistent & reliable operation, the pool and equipment must be used and
maintained as specified. Most issues are easily avoidable with correct maintenance.
Before installation or operation, please take the time to read this entire manual, compare package contents with the
parts list, and gather tools required. Improper installation may void the warranty and create unnecessary hazards.
This manual contains step-by-step instructions to help ensure that your installation meets the recommended
standards. Spending the time to understand your system and its functions will assure successful, trouble-free
operation.
As with any electrical device, it is very important that the installation and service of this equipment be performed by
a qualified person with the skills and experience required to do it safely and correctly. Improper installation or
service can result in severe electrical shock to the installer or user of the equipment or pool. Please choose your
installer with great care! Be sure to familiarize yourself with the pool chemistry requirements and maintenance
procedures.
Please visit www.circupool.com/help for more information, tips, and troubleshooting assistance.
GETTING STARTED
INTRODUCTION

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UNIVERSAL-SERIES SYSTEM OVERVIEW
The UNIVERSAL-Series system utilizes three main components for operation:
Control Module:
This component supplies power to the Cell and allows you to customize the system's
operation in order to meet your pool's unique needs.
Electrolytic Cell:
This component creates chlorine as the water inside passes through and returns to the
pool. The Electrolytic Cell ("Cell") contains a bipolar set of titanium plates that use a low
level of DC electrical power to generate chlorine from salt in the water.
Flow Switch:
This component ensures that there is adequate water flow for the Cell to activate.
Additional Items Required (Not Included)
Control Module
Electrolytic Cell
Flow Switch
PVC Cement, PVC Primer, Hacksaw or Pipe Cutters, Screwdrivers, Permanent Marker

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WATER CHEMISTRY & SALT LEVELS
Preparing the Pool Water
It is important that the pool's water chemistry is balanced before the UNIVERSAL-Series is powered on and
used. In order for the system to be able to work, there must be a minimum level of salt in the pool water,
see “Salt Levels” below. In order to achieve normal pool operation, water chemistry needs to be balanced
according to the national standards listed under "Ideal Chemistry Levels" on page 6.
DO NOT add chemicals or salt directly to the skimmer. This may damage the Cell. If the system has
already been installed, it should not be turned on before adding salt. Additionally, leave the salt chlorinator
off any time there is a chance of recently added chemicals going through the salt Cell in a concentrated
form.
For New Pools / Remodels: wait 30 days or longer if specified by your builder for plaster to cure before
adding salt.
For Biguanide (Non-Chlorine) Pools: ensure any Biguanide-based chemicals have been removed prior to
startup.
Ideal Salt Levels & Pool Size
The ideal salt level for operation is about 3500 ppm (parts per million), and it is suggested to keep the
salinity between 3000-4000 ppm . To achieve this level of salinity, use the chart on page 7, which will help
you add approximately 30 lbs of salt for every 1000 gallons of water (or 3.6 Kilograms of salt for every 1000
Liters). If you are unsure of the number of gallons in your pool, double-check with the following equations.
Calculating Gallons (Dimensions in Feet)
Rectangular Pool
Pool Width xPool Length xAverage Depth x7.5 = Pool Gallons
Round Pool
Pool Diameter xPool Diameter xAverage Depth x5.9 = Pool Gallons
Oval Pool
Pool Width xPool Length xAverage Depth x6.7 = Pool Gallons
Example –15’ x 30’ Rectangular Pool with 3’ shallow end and 6’ deep end.
15’ wide x30’ long x4.5’ Average Depth x7.5 = 15187 Gallons

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Adding Salt
IMPORTANT: Before adding salt at any time, ALWAYS perform an independent water test to measure pre-existing salt levels.
After measuring for any existing salt content in the pool, add salt according to the chart above. The chart allows you
to cross-reference your existing salt level and your pool size to estimate the number of pounds of salt required to
achieve 3500 ppm. Without the right amount of salt, the result will be reduced efficiency and a low level of chlorine
production. In addition, operation at low salt levels will reduce the longevity of the Cell.
When adding the salt to the pool, it is best to empty the required salt into the shallow end of the pool and run the
filter and pump simultaneously in order to circulate the water and dissolve the salt (the UNIVERSAL-Series is to
remain off during this time period). Do not throw the salt bag into the water as chemicals and inks on the bag can
interfere with water balance. Salt may take 24 - 48 hours to dissolve in summer, and longer in winter. Finer granules
of salt will dissolve faster than compressed pellets.
The salt in your pool is constantly recycled and does not normally need to be replenished frequently. The loss of salt
throughout the swimming season should be small, and is due primarily to the addition of extra water to replace
water lost from splashing, backwashing, and draining. Salt is not lost due to evaporation.
Use only evaporated, granulated, non-iodized salt (Sodium Chloride). The more pure the salt (at least 99%), the
better the life and performance of the Electrolytic Cell. Water Softener salt (also known as Water Conditioning
pellets) is an economical way to buy large quantities of salt. However, only salt that is at least 99% pure NaCl can be
used. Pellets are compressed forms of evaporated salt that may take longer to dissolve. Avoid using salt with anti-
caking agents (Sodium Ferrocyanide, also known as YPS or Yellow Prussiate of Soda) that could cause discoloration of
fittings and surface finishes in pool. Do not use Calcium Chloride as a source of salt. Do not use Rock Salt; insoluble
impurities mixed with the rock salt can shorten the life of the unit.
TIP: When adding large quantities of salt, independently test existing salt level and add in portions, retesting at each stage.
If the salt level (PPM) in your pool is currently…
0
500
1000
1500
2000
2500
3000
3500
4000
4,000
117
100
83
67
50
33
17
0
OK
6,000
175
150
125
100
75
50
25
0
OK
8,000
234
200
167
133
100
67
33
0
OK
10,000
292
250
209
167
125
83
42
0
OK
12,000
350
300
250
200
150
100
50
0
OK
14,000
409
350
292
234
175
117
58
0
OK
16,000
467
400
334
267
200
133
67
0
OK
18,000
525
450
375
300
225
150
75
0
OK
20,000
584
500
417
334
250
167
83
0
OK
22,000
642
550
459
367
275
183
92
0
OK
24,000
701
600
500
400
300
200
100
0
OK
26,000
759
651
542
434
325
217
108
0
OK
28,000
817
701
584
467
350
234
117
0
OK
30,000
876
751
626
500
375
250
125
0
OK
32,000
934
801
667
534
400
267
133
0
OK
34,000
992
851
709
567
425
284
142
0
OK
36,000
1051
801
751
600
450
300
150
0
OK
38,000
1109
951
792
634
475
317
158
0
OK
40,000
1168
1001
834
667
500
334
167
0
OK
42,000
1226
1051
876
701
525
350
175
0
OK
44,000
1284
1101
917
734
550
367
183
0
OK
46,000
1343
1151
959
767
575
384
192
0
OK
48,000
1401
1201
1001
801
600
400
200
0
OK
50,000
1460
1251
1043
834
626
417
209
0
OK
If your pool holds this many gallons…

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Ideal Water Chemistry Levels
It is important to maintain these chemistry levels in order to ensure that the pool can be enjoyed safely, to minimize
the amount of effort required to sanitize the water, and to prevent corrosion or scaling. The only unique
requirement for a pool with a chlorine generator is the low level of salt (salinity) to be maintained in the water. It
may be helpful to provide this manual to any pool professional that you may have performing chemical testing or
service, as requirements may vary from brand to brand.
Swimming Pools Spas
Free Available Chlorine 1.0 - 3.0 ppm 3.0 - 5.0 ppm
Salinity 3000 - 4000 ppm 3000-4000 ppm
pH 7.2 - 7.8 7.2 - 7.8
Total Alkalinity 80 - 120 ppm 80 - 120 ppm
Calcium Hardness 200 - 400 ppm 150 - 450 ppm
Stabilizer (Cyanuric Acid) 30 - 50 ppm 30 - 50 ppm
Saturation Index (LSI) -0.2 to +0.2 (0 Best) -0.2 to +0.2
Phosphates & Nitrates None (0 Best) None
Metals None None
TDS <1200 <1200
CHEMISTRY TIPS:
Chlorine Stabilizer (Cyanuric Acid)
Stabilizer is needed to maintain proper levels of chlorine; the sun’s UV radiation can destroy unstabilized chlorine in as quickly as 2
hours.Stabilizershouldnot typically bemaintainedabove 50ppm,as excessiveamounts canalsoreducechlorineeffectiveness.
Nitrates and Phosphates
These chemicals are very common and can cause extremely high chlorine demands and can easily deplete your free
chlorine levels to zero. Your local pool professional can test for Nitrates and Phosphates, levels should be at zero.
Saturation Index (LSI)
A calculated number used to predict the calcium carbonate stability of water. If the index is higher than +0.2, it can
cause quick and excessive calcium scaling on the salt Cell. If the index is lower than -0.2, it can cause the water to be
corrosive and damaging to metals and minerals in the water, such as the titanium inside the Cell.
Metals
Metals can cause the loss of chlorine. Also, metals can stain your pool and tint your water. Have your local
professional test and recommend methods of removal. Be sure to use a phosphate-free metal remover.
Chloramines / Combined Chlorine
Chloramines should not be present in pool water. When organic materials are not fully oxidized by Free Chlorine,
Chloramines are formed. This ties up the Free Chlorine in your pool, and does not allow the chlorine in your pool to
disinfect. Chloramines also cloud pool water and burn the eyes. Super Chlorinate (shock) to remove Chloramines at the
initial startup of the pool.
pH Levels
pH produced by the Electrolytic Cell is close to neutral pH. However, other factors usually cause the pH of the pool
water to rise. Therefore the pH in a saltwater pool tends to stabilize at approximately 7.8. This is within national
standards. pH levels above 7.8 drastically reduce the effectiveness of the chlorine, and can also contribute to
excessive mineral scaling. If high, have a pool professional test to see if other factors such as high Calcium Hardness
or Total Alkalinity are the cause, and then balance accordingly.
Total Dissolved Solids (TDS)
Adding salt to pool water will raise the TDS level. While this does not adversely affect the pool water chemistry or
clarity, the pool professional testing for TDS must be made aware that salt has been added. The individual performing
the TDS test will then subtract the salinity level to arrive at the correct TDS level.

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How it works
Think of the UNIVERSAL-Series as a chlorine generator; set it to create a steady supply of chlorine for the pool, instead
of buying and adding chlorine by hand.
How it works: Using electrolysis, it creates chlorine from the salt molecules (NaCL) in your water in order to sanitize
your pool. A small electric charge is applied across a set of titanium plates inside the Electrolytic Cell. This produces
Sodium Hypochlorite (NaOCl). In water, Sodium Hypochlorite dissociates into sodium (NA+) and hypochlorite (OCl-)
ions. It is the hypochlorite ions that form with the hydrogen (H+) ions (from the water) to form hypochlorous acid
(HOCl), which is the active agent that destroys bacteria and algae, and oxidizes organic matter. This form of chlorine
works quickly in the pipe, leaving only a mild residual in the pool. In addition, the Electrolytic Cell continuously
“shocks” the incoming water- burning off any oils, organic matter, or other particles that need to be oxidized. Best of
all, the process continuously recycles the salt: after cleaning the pool, the original molecules reform and the whole
process begins again. The salt doesn't get used up!
Initial Start Up
Before starting the system for the first time, verify that the pool water is chemically balanced (see page 8) and
that all installation items are completed (see page 19)
Apply power to the pool pump switch (or timer controls). This should activate the UNIVERSAL-Series system, and
within moments the green LED lights for "Power" and "Generating" should be illuminated. During this time, you may
also see the "No-Flow" light flash for up to 60 seconds as your pump begins its operation. During this time, the
system will also check that the Cell is connected, and may display a message on screen if it is not.
Once powered on, you’ll want to set its power level (Chlorine Output). To find the optimum Chlorine Output setting,
start at a setting of 75% and adjust as needed over the initial start up period. Measure your available chlorine in the
pool after two to three days, and adjust the Chlorine Output level accordingly. If the available chlorine is too high,
lower the Output level; if the available chlorine is too low, raise the Output level. It will take a few adjustments to
find the ideal setting for your pool. Once set for the pool’s current needs, it should only take minor adjustments of
the system’s power level and/or pump run times throughout the season.
General Operation
By familiarizing yourself with the operation of the UNIVERSAL-Series, you can achieve the maximum performance for
your pool. There are three main factors that you can control which directly impact the resulting free chlorine level in
the pool:
1) The chosen percentage of Chlorine Output on the Control Module
2) Hours of pump run-time each day
3) Water chemistry balance
- Including the amount of salt in the pool and chemicals that affect chlorine demand, such as chlorine
stabilizer, phosphates, nitrates, and more. See "Ideal Chemistry Levels" on page 8 for more important
information.
After making the initial adjustments to your chosen Chlorine Output level, additional adjustments are typically only
necessary due to changing seasonal temperatures, or changes in pool use and bather load. Like any pool, ensure that your
pump runs long enough for all the pool water to pass through the filter 1.5x to 2x a day (usually at least 8 hours). This is
amount of time is typically more than sufficient for chlorination of the pool, but if the pool has high chlorine demand,
running the pool pump longer allows for more chlorination. Measure your water chemistry and chlorine level on a regular
basis.
As you use the system throughout the season, make sure that you clean the Cell as frequently as needed (see page
12). Once the system detects that the Cell needs to be cleaned, it will display a “Cell Maint.” warning light, and then
will not be able to create more chlorine until all mineral scaling has been removed from the Cell.
OPERATION

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Using the Control Module
SWITCH POSITIONS:
•AUTO: Normally, this switch should be left in the “Auto” position. In this position the Universal Series will
produce sanitizer according to the percentage chosen by the "Output Adjustment Dial".
•ON: This position turns on the “Super Chlor” feature, for when a larger amount of sanitizer is temporarily
needed to contend with high bather loads, heavy rainfall, or cloudy water conditions. This boosts output from its
current dial position to 100% output for 24 hours (filter pump must be on during this time) or until the power
has been turned off, whichever comes first. At the end of the Super Chlor period, the system will revert to
operation based on the Output Adjustment Dial - put the switch back into the “Auto” position when next able.
•OFF: The “Off” position prevents the Control Module from energizing the Electrolytic Cell. In this position there
is no chlorine generation. IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE: The OFF position does not remove power from the
Control Module. Always disconnect power at the circuit breaker prior to attempting any service procedure.
OUTPUT ADJUSTMENT DIAL:
The yellow dial is used to control the amount of chlorine the Cell generates. The chlorine output is
adjustable from 5% to its 100%.
LED INDICATOR LIGHTS:
•Power: The Control Module is receiving input power when this light is illuminated.
•Generate: This LED is illuminated during normal operation (when switch is in On or Auto position). When
flashing, the pool water is either too hot or too cold for chlorine generation. This LED is only off when the
Super Chlor switch is in the Off position.
•Super Chlor: This LED is illuminated when the Super Chlor mode is active and the switch is in the On position.
•Remote: The Control Module is controlled by a remote control system. (Check with dealer for availability)
•No Flow: This LED is illuminated solidly when the Flow Switch has detected no flow. This causes the Cell to
stop generating chlorine. A flashing LED indicates that the flow is restored, but there will be a 60 second
delay before generation is reestablished.
•Cell Maint.: A flashing LED is only a reminder that enough time has gone by that you should proactively inspect
the inside of the cell. The flashing light does not impact operation, and is reset by holding the “system status”
button for 10 seconds. A solidly illuminated LED indicates Cell efficiency is greatly reduced and the Cell has
stopped producing chlorine. This will eventually happen with normal operation, and at this point the cell simply
must be cleaned: see instructions on page 12. Be sure to inspect the cell after cleaning; look through the cell to
make sure there are no physical particles or blockages between the titanium plates. If after cleaning the Cell
Maint. light comes back on within 10-15 minutes of operation, verify salinity and Cell Version setting, and then
continue to clean cell again more thoroughly as needed. It is possible for cleaning to be necessary even if debris or
mineral build-up isn't immediately visible to the eye. Additionally, if inadequate water flow through the cell is not
TIP: All LED indicators get reset when system is powered off. After restoring power, the system will run normally for
1-5 minutes while running diagnostics before displaying any warning lights. Be sure to check system after this point,
especially if you were seeing any warning lights prior to turning the system off.

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allowing titanium plates to be completely covered by water, this will also cause the system to experience a high
amount of wear. If illuminated after thorough cleanings, verifying system parameters and complete water
coverage in cell, Cell replacement may be necessary. This light takes priority over any salinity readings or
indicator lights, as salinity readings may temporarily be artificially low during such conditions.
•Check Salt: When this LED is flashing, the salt level is near to its minimum threshold, which is causing the Cell
to operate at low efficiency. When this LED is illuminated steadily, the salt level is too low and Cell has shut
down. The salt level must be raised before operation is restored. See also "Cell Maint." above. See page 7 for
information about adding salt.
•High Salt: When this LED is flashing, the salt level is higher than necessary. When this LED is illuminated
steadily, the salt level is too high and the Cell has shut down. The pool water must be diluted with fresh
water before operation is restored. See also "Cell Maint." above.
LCD DISPLAY:
During normal operation, the screen shows the average salt concentration of the pool water, in ppm (parts per
million). This average reading is constantly being updated by real-time salinity readings.
•TIP: When first installed, this reading may display the last salinity readings taken at the factory. This average
will begin to update with your pool's operation over the first 24 hours.
•TIP: As mineral scaling builds up in the Cell after regular use, the system may temporarily display an
artificially low salinity level. After fully cleaning your Cell, it will begin to detect salinity normally again.
Press the SYSTEM STATUS button sequentially to cycle through the following other information on the LCD Display:
1. Pool Temperature (xx degrees Fahrenheit or Celsius)
2. Cell Voltage (often 21.0 to 27.0 volts when chlorine is being generated, otherwise 16-31V)
3. Cell Current (often 2.50 to 7.80 amps when chlorine is being generated, otherwise 0 amps during normal
rest cycles –see “Duty Cycle” below for more information.)
4. Selected Chlorine Output percentage level ("0p" to "100p" depending on dial position or input from
remote pool automation controller)
5. Real-Time Salinity reading ( xxxx PPM or x.x grams/Liter.)
6. System ID
7. Software revision level
8. Cell Version
NOTE: You may see a negative sign in front of some diagnostic numbers during normal operation. This is
normal and indicates the system is on one of its two Reverse Polarity cycles, no action is required.
On the 9th push of the button the display will revert back to the default Average Salinity display. The default display
will also be restored any time the button is not pushed for 30 seconds. The Pool Temperature and Real-Time Salinity
displays can each have their units of measure switched. To do so, bring the desired display on screen using the
System Status button, then cycle the Super Chlor switch from Auto to On.
Chlorine Generation Duty Cycle
At times you will see the no Cell Current or Real-Time Salinity reading during normal operation –this simply indicates
the system is in the resting portion of its duty cycle. No action is required on your part. This model uses an algorithm
that determines when it is actively generating chlorine. The lower the chosen chlorine output level, the less frequently
these readings will be present, and vice versa. This feature helps maximize the lifespan of your Cell.

12
.
Expected Maintenance
Monitor your pool’s salinity level as frequently as you check your other water chemistry levels.
After the system has run for a time, your Cell will eventually need to be cleaned due to natural mineral scaling. The system
will notify you of this by turning on the “Cell Maint.” light. When illuminated, follow the cleaning instructions below.
IMPORTANT: The frequency of cleaning depends on your water chemistry and the Saturation Index of the water. For
most people, cleaning is only necessary a handful of times per season. More rapid mineral build up is sure sign of a
chronically high Saturation Index; it is possible for imbalanced chemistry to cause scaling to occur quite rapidly. Consult
a pool professional for additional help.
Cleaning the Electrolytic Cell
Once substantial deposits have built up on the titanium plates in the Cell, the “Cell Maint” LED will illuminate, and the
mineral scaling must be removed. The Cell may require cleaning even if debris or build-up is not immediately visible
to the eye. If the “Cell Maint” LED is on, it typically means the Cell must be cleaned.
IMPORTANT: If mineral build-up is severe, more than one cleaning may be necessary to dissolve remaining solids.
Inspect Cell plates closely with a bright light after cleaning. If you can see any remaining scaling, debris, or physical
blockages through Cell, repeat the cleaning process as needed. If “Cell Maint.” comes back on soon after cleaning
(check a few minutes after restoring power): 1) verify salinity is in range; 2) ensure Cell is completely full of water
during operation; 3) verify system’s cell version setting; and then 4) clean Cell again.
Before removing the Cell for cleaning or replacement:
1) Turn off all power to all pool equipment, close supply line valves if applicable.
2) Unplug the Cell cable connecting the Cell to the Control Module.
3) Disconnect the Cell by unscrewing the Threaded Collars around the unions where the Cell attaches to the plumbing.
4) Remove entire Cell from between the unions. DO NOT pull or hold the Cell by its cable.
To clean the Cell of mineral buildup:
1) Attach Cleaning Cap or Cleaning Stand (sold separately, available at www.circupool.com) and orient the Cell
vertically. Place on the ground and stabilize so as to remain upright and prevent spilling.
2) In a separate bucket, mix one part muriatic acid into four parts water. Pour this weak acid solution directly into
Cell. Ensure that the cleaning solution COMPLETELY covers the components the inside of the Cell.
3) Wait for foaming to stop. Allow solution to soak for no more than fifteen minutes.
4) Properly dispose of acid solution, and use a hose to generously flush any remaining debris out of the Cell.
5) Look inside the cell to check that no debris or scaling remains. Repeat steps 2-4 if necessary.
6) Reinstall Cell into PVC return line.
Note: if you don’t currently have a Cleaning Cap or Cleaning Stand, you can completely immerse the cell body in a
five-gallon bucket. For instructions, see guides listed under www.circupool.com/help
CAUTION: When cleaning the Cell always wear adequate protection, such as rubber gloves and eye protection.
Always add acid to water, do not add water to acid. Always work in a well-ventilated area. Splashing or spilling
acid can cause severe personal injury and/or property damage.
WARNING: Do not insert anything or use metal or other hard objects to clean the cell, this will void the warranty.
MAINTENANCE

13
General Maintenance
Winterizing
Very little chlorine is necessary at low temperatures. The UNIVERSAL-Series will not produce chlorine at very cold
temperatures, especially below 50° F. This feature extends the lifespan of the Cell. The system will resume operation
once temperatures rise near 55°F.
Additionally, winter Bypass Cells are available, which allow you to continue to run water through the plumbing
without the Electrolytic Cell in place. (sold separately, available at www.circupool.com)
If you “close” your pool for the winter, you can continue to follow all standard procedures for your local area.
The Electrolytic Cell will be damaged by freezing water just as your pool plumbing would. In areas which experience
severe or extended periods of freezing temperatures, be sure to drain all water from the pump, filter, supply and
return lines before any freezing conditions occur. The Control Module is capable of withstanding any winter weather
and does not need to be removed.
Spring Start-up
When opening the pool after a period of inactivity, do not power on and use the chlorine generator until the pool's
water chemistry has been balanced and brought to ideal levels. Salt must be added if water has been drained over
the winter.
Replacing the Cell
When the titanium blades inside the Electrolytic Cell have reached the end of their lifespan, replacements are readily
available so that the whole system does not have to be replaced. Replacements are easily switched out. To ensure
quality and value, only genuine CircuPool replacement parts may be used.

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IMPORTANT: If you haven’t already done so, it is necessary to balance the pool's water chemistry before the UNIVERSAL-Series is
powered on and used. See pages 6 - 8 for more information.
The following are guidelines for the typical installation using 2” plumbing, which should be performed by a qualified individual. If
1.5” plumbing is present, reducers can be used to adapt the system; be sure to note the changes to any listed measurements or
dimensions that the addition of reducers may cause. Your installation may vary depending on space available and your specific
arrangement of equipment. Double check each measurement before cutting.
Overview
Above are common installation configurations (#1-3). Be sure to avoid any configuration that may potentially allow
water to pass through the Flow Switch, but not the cell (#4). The main components of the UNIVERSAL-Series are the
Control Module, Electrolytic Cell, and Flow Switch.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Ensure that the pool pump and all electrical power are turned off before installation.
TIP: Lay out your equipment and wiring to confirm placement and measurements first before cutting and gluing.
TIP: Be sure to clean & smooth cut pipe. When gluing PVC, parts will slip in place easier once glue is applied. Be
sure to apply firm, constant pressure between both glued parts for up to a minute to prevent potential slippage.

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Installing the Electrolytic Cell and Flow Switch
The Cell and Flow Switch are to be fitted into the return line as the last pieces of equipment the water passes
through before returning to the pool: always after the pump, filter, heater (if applicable), etc. If a heater is present,
all equipment must be a minimum distance away, per heater manufacturer recommendations.
Refer to the overview diagram on page 14 for alternate configurations. For combined pool and spa systems with a
spillover, configurations #2 or #3 allow chlorination for both the pool and spa during spillover but preventing
possible over-chlorination when operating the spa only. Vertical Installation Kits are also available to minimize
plumbing space required and increase ease of installation (sold separately, available at www.circupool.com).
1. Lay out your equipment to ensure there is enough pipe space available; the Cell with unions is 15 ¾” in length,
and the Flow Switch is 4” in length.
2. On the pipe where the Cell will be installed, mark two lines 13 ¾” apart and then cut the pipe (for 2” plumbing).
3. Unscrew and removed Threaded Collars from Cell. Slide these over the pipe on each side of the cut, then glue
each Union to the cut pipe. Ensure O-Rings are in place on Unions.
-TIP: Glue one Union first, then when gluing second Union use Cell body to gauge the final distance need
between each Union; make small adjustments to second union’s slip connection while glue is still wet.
4. Only after the glue has fully cured, place the Cell into the opening between Unions and tighten the Threaded
Collars (by hand only) to ensure that the Cell fits securely in place. DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN.
-When positioning the Cell, you can consider the side of the cell with the cord the "inlet" side. If installed
horizontally, ensure that the wire-side faces upwards.
5. Install the Flow Switch next to the Cell. Ensure that any excess glue does not become contact with movable switch.
-IMPORTANT: When positioning the Flow Switch, there must be at least 6 to 12” (30cm) of straight pipe before
the Flow Switch. If installed after the Electrolytic Cell, the Cell can be counted as straight pipe.
-To ensure proper operation, verify that the arrow on the flow switch (located on the black plastic) points in
the direction of water flow; the water flow must depress the hinged activator inside of the Flow Switch.
-If installed horizontally, ensure that the black plastic wire portion faces upwards. This portion is threaded and can
be turned during service to align arrow with water flow; additional thread seal tape may be added if necessary.
-When plumbing, the Flow Switch’s internal dimensions will add at least 1 ¼" if pipe is fully inserted into its slip
connections.
NOTE: When using a Variable-Speed or Multi-Speed pump on a low speed setting, or for
general circumstances where flow is less-than-adequate, the cell must be inverted in
order to ensure adequate flow & efficient chlorine production.
IMPORTANT: These instructions are for 2” plumbing (typical). Be sure to select the Cell Unions that match the
existing pool plumbing size (1 ½” or 2”), and discard the other unneeded Unions. For installations using 1 ½" Cell
Unions, you will also use the included 2"-to-1 ½" reducer bushings to adapt the Flow Switch. For 1 ½” installations,
be sure to note any new or additional measurements before cutting pipe.
Electrolytic Cell
2” Union
Threaded Collar
Flow Switch

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Installing the Control Module
Mount the Control Module as close to the pump and filtration system as possible. For safety concerns, do not install
the Control Module within 10 feet of the pool edges, and follow all applicable codes. Verify that the Cell and Flow
Switch cables can reach the Control Module from the section of pipe selected for plumbing.
The Module is fully rated for outdoor use; common sense considerations such as minimizing direct exposure to rain,
sunlight, water runoff, and lawn sprinkler systems will enhance longevity. As with most electronics, avoid placing the
controls above a heater or in tightly enclosed or insulated spaces to avoid a build-up of excess heat.
Using screws, secure the Control Module's mounting bracket at a comfortable level on a wall or vertical support, at
least 3 feet above ground level. Hang Controls on bracket.
Wiring
CAUTION: Power must be shut off at the circuit breaker before performing any wiring. Be sure to follow local and
NEC/CEC electrical codes. The system has been designed to easily wire into typical in-ground pool systems. To
provide safe operation, the unit must be properly grounded and bonded.
For operation, the Control Module may be wired in to the pump's power source so that both turn on and off
together, or energized continuously for use with variable speed pumps (Flow switch will control Cell power but lights
will remain on).
Bonding:
A lug used for attaching a bonding ground is located on the bottom of the UNIVERSAL-Series Control Module. The
Control Module must be bonded with an 8 AWG bare copper wire to the pool bonding system.
Electrolytic Cell and Flow Switch Connections:
The Cell and Flow Switch cables have easy plug-in connectors, which attach easily to the Control Module. Refer to
the diagram below for the location of these connections. Carefully align each connector to avoid damage.
POWER CORD
BONDING LUG
FLOW SWITCH
CELL CABLE (Connected on Front)
(Bottom View of Control Module)

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Wiring (Continued)
Wiring to Power Source:
Always double-check the voltage of your power source.Connection to improper voltage can: a) cause severe
damage/harm, or b) cause lights and screen to power on without system function.
The UNIVERSAL-Series is shipped from the factory with a 240 VAC configuration. If 120VAC is needed, move the
internal jumpers as shown on page 18 (the white wire on the power cord becomes the neutral). If unsure, seek
professional advice.
The Control Module comes with an un-terminated Power Cord (AC Input) which is typically connected to an external
timer, which will turn the pump and Control Module on and off together. Have the Control Module wired to the load
side of the timer by a qualified person. See the following diagram for typical wiring.
In some parts of the United States and Canada, the Control Module must be connected to a circuit protected by a
Class A ground fault interrupter (GFI). Check local codes before connecting.
For use with Variable Speed Pumps: When used with variable-speed or other electronically controlled pumps, you
may wish to wire the Control Module directly to your power source. This will allow the pump to determine when the
Cell is energized or dormant by activation of the Flow Switch.
Power Protection Mechanisms:
The Control Module has two power protection mechanisms, an external Fuse Reset button (located on underside of
unit); and an internal, replaceable ATO “blade-type” fuse (located inside the unit). If the Control Module has input
power, but displays no power, press the external Fuse Reset button. If power is not restored, replace the internal
ATO fuse.
At this point, this installation of your equipment is complete. If the water has not yet been prepared, then you are
ready to begin adding salt and balancing your water chemistry, see pages 6-8. Turn the Control Module to the Power
Off mode until enough salt has been dissolved in the water.
Load 1 (Black), Load 2 (White), Ground (Green)

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Always double-check the voltage of your power source.Connection to improper voltage can: a) cause severe
damage/harm, or b) cause lights and screen to power on without system function.
All service should only be attempted by a person with appropriate electrical skills, with all equipment disconnected
from power.
The UNIVERSAL Series is shipped from the factory with a 240 VAC configuration unless specially ordered. If 120VAC is
needed, move the internal jumpers as shown below. If unsure, seek professional advice.
This set of terminal screws can be located inside of the Control Module, and accessed by removing the two screws
from the front panel of the Control Module's display. The factory voltage setting is the 240V configuration, with a
jumper clip inserted between the second and third terminals. The Control Module can be made to accept 110V by
reconfiguring the jumper clips as shown above right, with two jumper clips instead connecting the first & second
terminals, and the third & fourth terminals.
NOTE: Only jumper clips should be moved or reconfigured. No wires should be moved or loosened. Ensure all
connections are tight before returning unit to service.
VOLTAGE CONVERSION

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□ Cell Unions installed and glued into pipe work.
□ Threaded Collars on either side of the Cell are hand tight.
□ Flow Switch is installed and oriented properly.
□ Control Module is affixed to wall and wired correctly.
□ Cell Cable and Flow Switch are connected to Control Module.
□ You have checked and confirmed that Control Module switches ON
and OFF concurrently with filter pump, or is energized continuously
for use with variable speed pump.
□ You have checked all connections and joints for leaks.
□ Sufficient salt has been added and fully dissolved and circulated
throughout pool water.
□ Pool has properly balanced water chemistry.
INSTALLATION CHECKLIST

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For more detailed information and useful tips, visit www.circupool.com/help.
Proper operation of the chlorine generator can be easily verified by checking the lights on the control panel.
However, if the pool remains cloudy, or the chlorine residual tests low, then the chlorine being produced is being
lost due to high chlorine demand or improper water conditions.
To reduce the chlorine demand, check the pH and Stabilizer (Cyanuric Acid) reading. Check for phosphates and
nitrates, which commonly contribute to severe chlorine demand. If tests show correct, then a shock treatment with
an oxidizer agent is advised. Generally, superchlorination is not necessary if the pool is maintained at correct levels.
Recommendations and Helpful Hints:
Recommended List
• Read and keep your manual in a safe place.
• Increase Chlorine Production when temperature goes up.
• Increase Chlorine Production when number of guests goes up.
• Use Stabilizer (Cyanuric Acid) to protect free chlorine in pool.
• Mount Control Module in shade or out of the direct sunlight whenever possible.
• Decrease Chlorine Production when temperature goes down.
• Take pool water sample to a Pool Professional at least once per month.
Not Recommended List
• Do not allow fertilizer anywhere near your pool. Fertilizers are one of many sources that contain Nitrates or
Phosphates which cause severe chlorine demand in pool water.
•Never use dry acid to adjust pH. A build-up of by-products can damage the Cell.
• Do not add any chemicals (including salt) to the skimmers.
• Do not let salinity level drop below 3000 ppm.
Definitions:
Algae
Plant-like organisms which grow in water. Especially active in summer conditions, where chlorine disinfectant level is
too low to destroy them. Algae may be green, brown, pink, or black (Black Spot) in color.
Chlorine Demand
The amount of chlorine that should be added to the water to provide proper bacteria and algae control.
Chlorine Residual
The amount of chlorine left over, after the “demand” has been met.
Combined Chlorine
Weak chlorine which is combined with the contaminants in the water.
Free Chlorine
Active chlorine in the water with the potency to destroy contaminants.
Shock Treatment
The removal by means of oxidation of those materials that have chlorine demand.
Superchlorination
An extra large amount of chlorine added to the water.
HELPFUL HINTS