Corsair marine F-24 User manual

SAILING MANUAL

For All Corsair Models

November, 1997

Including F-24, F-28 and F-31

Sailing Manual For All

Corsair Models

Thismanualhasbeencompiledtohelpyoutooperateyourcraftwith

safety and enjoyment. It contains details of the craft, the equipment

supplied or fitted, its systems, and information on its operation and

maintenance. Please read it carefully and familiarize yourself with

the craft before using it.

Ifthisisyourfirstcraft,oryouarechangingtoatypeofcraftyouare

not familiar with, for your own comfort or safety, please ensure that

you obtain handling and operating experience before assuming

command of the craft. Your dealer or national sailing federation or

yacht club will be pleased to advise you of local sailing schools or

competent instructors.

PLEASE KEEP THIS MANUAL IN A SECURE

PLACE, AND PASS ON TO THE NEW

OWNER WHEN YOU SELL THE CRAFT

Model_____________________

Hull Number__________________________________

Built By: Corsair Marine, Inc.

150 Reed Court, Chula Vista, CA 91911, U.S.A.

Owner 1. ___________________________ Owner 2. ___________________________ Owner 3. __________________________

__________________________________ __________________________________ _________________________________

___________________________________ __________________________________ _________________________________

Contents

General............................................... 3

Preparation..........................................3

Loading ..............................................3

Safety Compartment........................... 4

Outboard Motor.................................. 4

Trailering ............................................5

Rigging................................................6

Launching........................................... 9

Mast Raising On The Water................11

Rudder.................................................11

Daggerboard........................................11

Mast Setup..................................................11

Sailing..........................................................12

The Basics.........................................12

Reefing..............................................13

Rotating Mast Control.......................15

Windward Performance.....................15

Reaching............................................16

Screacher...........................................16

Spinnaker...........................................17

Spinnaker Jibing................................17

Spinnaker Sailing Downwind............18

Safe Sailing Recommendations.........19

Sailing Hints......................................21

Anchoring............................................23

Beaching..............................................23

Retrieving To Trailer ..........................23

De-rigging ..........................................24

Lifting Out.......................................... 26

Marina Docking..................................26

Safety...................................................26

Unsinkability.....................................27

Offshore Sailing ...............................27

Capsize..............................................27

Righting.............................................28

Personal Responsibility ....................30

Safety In General ..............................31

Technical Notes...................................31

Winch line......................................... 31

Spring Retaining Clips......................31

Launching......................................... 31

Beam Bolts........................................31

Hoisting Mainsail..............................31

Bearing Away.................................... 31

Heavy Helm...................................... 31

Rudder/Daggerboard hum.................31

Rudder Ventilation............................ 31

Shroud Tensioners.............................32

Compression Pads.............................32

Wingnets............................................32

Bimini Top Storage............................32

Float/Beam Vents.............................. 32

Rust....................................................33

Cleaning Floats..................................33

Clean Boat Hint.................................33

Collision............................................33

Hurricane Survival............................ 33

SPECIFICATIONS ............................ 34

F-24 Mk II Sail Plan........................... 35

F-28 & F-28R Sail Plan...................... 36

F-31 Sail Plan......................................37

F-31R Sail Plan...................................38

F-24 Interior........................................ 39

F-24 Deck Layout............................... 39

F-28 Interior........................................ 40

F-28 Deck Layout............................... 40

F-31Aft Cockpit Interior.................... 41

F-31Aft Cockpit Deck Layout............41

Typical Trailer Setup ..........................42

Warranty & Limitation of Liability.....43

Maintenance & Safety Checklist ........44

Multihullsshouldbetreatedlike aircraftwhenitcomesto

loading. Corsair trimarans are light, responsive craft, and

due to their narrow waterline do not have an unlimited load

carrying ability. Overloading can affect performance and

handling,whileexcessiveoverloading canalso affectsafety

margins,theratiooffloatbuoyancyrelativetothetotalweight

falling.Ahigherratioisfasterandsafer.Alwaysbeconscious

of weight and take care not to carry unnecessary items.

Theload-carryingcapacityofthedifferentCorsairmodels

is listed in the back of this manual. Some overloading is

acceptable for general sailing in sheltered waters, the only

adverse affect being a loss in performance. However, an

overloaded boat offshore in large waves can become dan-

gerous due to greater loads generated in the structure, and

thesluggishnesswhichcanpreventtheboatfromrisingtogo

over, or with the waves, as it should.

Whenstoringsupplies,trytokeepallheavyitemslocated

as low down as possible and in the forward end of the

cabin. Avoid storing any heavy items inside aft of the main

entryhatch,astoomuchweightaftcancausetransomdrag,

affecting performance. Farrier designs have a very buoyant

bow, which actually lifts at speed, and additional weight

GENERAL

This manual contains important information about the safe

operation and maintenance of your Corsair built trimaran. Read

it carefully, become familiar with the procedures described, and

follow the recommendations to help make your sailing enjoyable

and trouble-free.

Corsair trimarans are designed and built as high perfor-

mance cruising yachts, which when used as intended, with

their enormous stability and unsinkability, are among the

safest and fastest yachts afloat.

Asyou becomefamiliarwith yourboat,youmay discover

alternative methods of operation that have advantages. We

wouldappreciateifyouwouldsharethesewithussothatwe

can share them with other owners.

PREPARATION

Before going sailing, you will need to provide the proper

safety equipment as required by local regulations. This will

usually include life jackets for all crew members, safety

harnesses for children, anchor, compass, bilge pump, fog

horn, FirstAid kit, fireextinguishers, flashlightand batteries,

life buoy, flares, a chart of the area to be sailed, food, water,

and adequate fuel.

Corsair trimarans taking part in the 1997 U.S. National Titles, Pensacola, Florida. Farrier designs have now been sailing

extensively world wide for over 20 years, and the experience from all these years is the basis for this manual.

should always be kept forward rather than aft.

Shouldyourmodel havefloatstorage,avoid heavy loads

in the floats. These should only be used for light bulky items

such as sails, fenders etc. Heavy weight in the ends of any

boat, be it the bow, stern, or floats, can adversely affect the

general motion.

To maintain a light boat, and that sparkling edge to

performance, it is highly recommended that you go through

everything on board several times a year, and take off any

itemsthatdonotgetused.Thispreventsthegradualbuildup

of unnecessary weight.

SAFETY COMPARTMENT

Before sailing, it is important that the Safety Compart-

ment be loaded with the appropriate safety gear. This

compartmentis accessiblefrom toporbottomandisusually

located in a cockpit coaming, or under the cockpit seat.

Its purpose is to keep important safety equipment that

should be available to the crew in any emergency situation,

including a capsize. The equipment stored here should

include flares, a handheld VHF radio, EPIRB (offshore),

extraline,sparetools,cuttingimplementsetc. in watertight

bags (this is not a watertight compartment).

No multihull should venture offshore without

safety gear in such a compartment

OUTBOARD MOTOR

The recommended motor size is given in the specifica-

tions at the back of this manual and this is more than

adequate for most circumstances.

Alongshaftmotoristheminimumrequired,andtheextra

long 25" shaft motors are the best. A remote control can

also help make operation very easy with aft cabin models.

With weight being important, try to choose a light outboard.

There are a number of specialist ‘Sail Boat’ motors now

availableandsome of thesearedesignedfor heavy, hardto

push, displacement boats, and their propellers are effec-

tively ’geared down’ to give high thrust at low speeds.

However, Corsair trimarans have a very easily driven hull

and may not need such a propeller. The result can be the

same as always driving your car in low gear. You will have

plentyof thrust, butspeedis low,andeconomy can bepoor.

These motors do have advantages, and if used, you may

need to experiment with different propellers to get the best

and most efficient performance.

Refer to the engine manual for details of operation,

maintenance and winter storage. Always be sure you have

enough fuel for your planned trip.

The motor can be used while the floats are extended or

folded and should always be tilted up when sailing.

The original prototype F-31 aft cabin, with outboard and underslung rudder system. This type of rudder can be

removed altogether for long distance trailering. Aft cockpit models all now use transom hung rudders.

foredeck cleat and then connected to the towing vehicle.

Independent wiring avoids the frequent breakdowns that

occur with wiring through the trailer being attacked by

saltwater. When the trailer is being towed on its own, the

lights can be mounted directly to the trailer.

Beforetrailering,checkthattiresareinflatedcorrectly,the

beamlockingpinsareinplace,therudderisfullyupandtied

to one side, the pop-top or hatch is secured, and the boat is

tied down to the trailer. There should be one tie-down per

side,these being looped around the winches or bracketson

the cockpit coamings, and tied to the tie-down loops on the

trailer. The bow eye should also be tied down to the winch

post, in addition to the winch line. Check that all the trailer

supports always bear equally against the hulls.

When trailering, BE SURE to pivot up or remove the

trailerjockeywheel,andthatthehitchislockedontotheball.

Should the mast extend back past the trailer lights by

more than the legal amount, the appropriate warning flag

should be tied on the back. The mast can be positioned far

enough forward to eliminate any excessive overhang, but

this may not be possible if the towing vehicle is a van.

Whentrailering,alwaysallowextradistanceforstopping.

Particularly watch for low bridges, overhanging trees or

awningsetc.Ifnecessary,theboatcanbepartiallyunfolded

on the trailer in order to pass under a low bridge.

The daggerboard SHOULD ALWAYS BE DOWN when

motoring, to prevent any sideways movement. If not, the

boat will have a hovercraft like motion with wide skidding

turns. With the board down, handling is excellent.

TRAILERING

Thetotaltowingweightcanvaryconsiderably,depending

on model and options, and can be determined exactly by

usingaweighbridge.Checkthatthevehicleisapprovedand

equipped as recommended by its manufacturer for towing

this weight, and the capacity of the towing hitch is suitable.

Whiletowing,watchfor strong crosswinds. A Corsair is a

relatively light boat for towing, but it still has considerable

windage. For easy, stable towing, the trailer should be

balancedtohave5to10%ofthetotalweightonthecoupling

ball. This can be measured by a bathroom scale. If you find

‘fish tailing’ occurs, increase this weight. If necessary, a

simplechange like shifting the gas tank or outboardforward

can make a considerable difference to trailer behavior.

Trailer lights are fitted either on special brackets or as a

separate light bar on the boat’s transom. They are thus

independent from the trailer, and the wiring never gets near

the water, considerably improving reliability. If separate, be

suretofitthecorrectlightsontheappropriatesides.Thewire

should be run along the top of the boat, looped around the

Light bar being fitted on an F-28. Note vertical position of transom hung rudder blade for trailering

CAUTION

Measure and KNOW the overall height on the trailer.

Care should be taken to avoid all low,

overhead

obstacles.

RIGGING

The following is a general rigging procedure and applies

to all models. There is also a separate more specific proce-

dure for each model. For ease of rigging, it is highly recom-

mended that you follow this general procedure, it having

beendevelopedfrom hundreds of launchingsandprovento

be fast, easy and efficient.

CAUTION

Always park into the wind,

or uphill to help the mast

stay in line while being winched up.

Trailer should

remain hooked to towing vehicle.

Two people should be able to completely rig an F-24, F-28

orF-31readyto launchinunder20minutesofarrivingatthe

ramp by using the correct procedure. It is possible in fact, to

be launched, unfolded, and sailing within 15 minutes with

just two. One person should be able to have the boat rigged

and launched in around 30 minutes. However, note that

loading any extra gear or supplies onto the boat is not

counted in these times.

DANGER

Before starting to rig,

check to see that there are no

powerlines for the mast to touch while being raised,

or while being moved to the ramp.

Don’tbedismayedifittakesyouconsiderablylongerthefirst

few times out. It will take a little practice to become familiar

with the procedures, and the more you rig the boat, the

easier and quicker it will become. However, it is very impor-

tant to follow a set procedure each time.

Recommended Set-Up Procedure Is As Follows:

1.Removethetrailertie-downs,andthetrailerlights.The

tie-downs can be tied together and used as the bow line for

launching.Saves stowing them,andthen findingabow line.

2.Undothetrailerwinchhook,andpullsomeslacksothat

the hook will pass over the bow roller. Leave it lying on the

foredeck.

3. Place the mast raising pole on the foredeck ready for

use.Climbontothebowusingthenonskidareasonthefloat

bows as stepping points.

CAUTION

The float bows can be slippery -

particularly warn

children to take care while climbing up or down.

4. Move aft alongside the mast undoing the mast ties (at

each end) and the rigging ties as you go.

5. Lifttheforward end of the mastandwalkaft,rolling the

mast on the aft mast roller while checking that the rigging

wires do not catch. Stop once the mast foot is over the pivot

brackets.Now’s thetime tofitanymasthead indicatortothe

topofthemast.Liftthemastupuntiltheindicatorcanbefitted

to the masthead from the ground behind the boat. If rigging

single-handed, the mast can usually be balanced in this

position to enable fitting.

WithF-28&F-31Rrotatingmasts,the mast

yokewillnow need to befittedtothe mast foot

using the through pin (yoke can also be fitted

prior to rolling mast back, or be left on the foot

at prior de-rigging). Another alternative is to

attach the yoke to the deck first, then fit the

mast to it.

6. The mast foot is now connected to the

mast step as follows:

F-24 Mk II: Plugged onto pininthedeck step.

F-28: Yoke is attached to the two deck brack-

ets with fast pins

F-31: Plugged onto pin in deck step.

F-31R rotating: Attach yoke to deck brackets

with fast pins

Mast rolled back and being fitted to deck pivot brackets

With the F-31 non-rotating mast, it may be necessary to

pushthemast firmly aft tofitonthe pin. If difficult,checkthat

all stays are clear, the terminals into the mast have not

snaggedsideways,andthemastiscenteredontheaftroller.

7. Fit the mast raising wires . These are led from the eye

around8'upthefrontofthemast(sideofthe mast with non-

rotatingmasts)tothesideanchorsonthecabinroof(aligned

withthemastpivotpoint).Theseraisingwireanchorscanbe

'clip on' or 'lift up loops' or extra chainplates, depending on

model.

Note that the length of these raising wires is adjustable

and they should be slightly loose and monitored on the first

mastraising.Thisistoensuretheycannotbecomeovertight

during the initial raising procedure. They should never be

more than moderately tight, and, once ad-

justedandset,shouldneednofurthermonitor-

ing or adjustment.

An alternative to raising wires is to use the

spinnaker and screacher halyards. These can

also provide an extra backup in difficult condi-

tions, but they do take longer to setup. If used,

theymustbecleatedatthebottomtothemast.

8. Position the mast raising pole on the

mastorintheyokesocket.Attachthewirefrom

thetopof thepole totheeye on thefrontof the

mast, with the pole being approximately per-

pendicular to the mast.

Ifconsiderednecessary,(strongcrosswinds

orsingle-handed)additionallightsidelinescan

be fitted from the pole end to the raising wire

anchors to stabilize pole sideways.

Where the yoke is used (F-28 and F-31R

rotating masts) the length of the wire from the

pole to the mast can also be adjusted, and a

little experimenting will give an almost perfect

Mast raising pole in position on an F-28 with winch line

connected to jib halyard, ready to raise mast. Shrouds must

be attached to floats to prevent mast falling forwards.

moderate tension on the raising wires throughout the com-

plete raising procedure.

9. Take the trailer winch line hook, pull it back over the

pole and connect it to the jib halyard snapshackle (after it

has been unhooked from the mast). Winch line should

extend at least 2' aft of the mast pole fork.

Check to see that the jib halyard is SECURELY TIED

OFF at the cleat on the side of the mast.

CAUTION

With rotating masts,

the shrouds must always be

connected to the floats,

otherwise there is a danger

that mast could topple forward with over-winching.

10. The mast is now winched up, CHECKING AGAIN

FOR POWERLINES.

Check to see that all rigging wires are clear and have not

snagged anywhere, particularly aft chainplates on F-31s.

Raising wires should initially be slightly loose, and tighten

slightly on the way up.

WARNING

During mast raising, it is very important to be alert to

all items of rigging lifting or supporting the mast. If any

resistance to raising is felt at any point, STOP and

check that nothing has fouled. Do not proceed until

any obstruction is clear

Ifthemastraisingpoletendstotwistsidewaysthiscanbe

controlled by light lines to the raising wire anchors as

mentioned earlier.

Mast on its way up and being held from going sideways by raising wires

Check that the socket in the rotating mast foot aligns

correctlywiththepivotballonthedeck,asthemastnearsthe

fully up position.

CAUTION

Winch operator should be careful to ensure that the

trailer winch line lays evenly across the drum

while

mast is being raised.

With an offset bow roller,

there

can be a tendency for the incoming line to pile up on

one side of the drum,

to where it can suddenly slip off.

Monitor the float shrouds with rotating masts on initial

rigging to ensure they do not become too tight or catch on

anything during raising. F-28 and F-31R (rotating masts)

haveeitherspeciallinkplatesoraHighfieldleversystemon

the float decks that allow the shroud enough slack for the

mast to be fully raised when the float is folded, while

preventing any danger of the mast toppling forward. The F-

24's special folding geometry allows this on its own.

These Link Plates are an important safeguard against

accidentlydroppingthemastwhilefoldingorunfolding,sodo

not remove.

The F-31 mast is large and heavy, with high loads, and

extracautionshouldbetakentoensureitisnotabletoswing

too far sideways. Never park in a cross wind or sideways on

a slope, unless extra help is available to steady mast.

11. Once the mast is fully up, connect forestay. At initial

rigging mast rake should be set to around 3 to 4°, which is 1

to2°morethantherakeoftheaftedgeoftheforwardbeams

whenviewedfromtheside.Onceinitialadjustmenthasbeen

done,theforestay turnbuckledoes not need to be undone

during normal rigging or de-rigging, only the clevis pin is

removed or inserted.

Lower and intermediate shrouds on the fixed F-31 mast

remain connected during all rigging and de-rigging

procedures. After the initial adjustment, there is also no

need to undo these or disconnect them from the shroud

chainplates.

12. Once forestay is connected, slacken off the trailer

winch, disconnect the jib halyard, and return it to the mast.

Remove raising pole, mast yoke, rewind the winch and

reconnect hook to the bow eye.

Leave mast raising wires attached to the mast, as

these are still required for support until after the floats are

unfolded and shrouds properly connected to floats.

13. The topping lift is now disconnected from the mast

lowerendandconnectedtotheendoftheboomtohelptake

theweight.Removethesailbagfromthemainsail/boomand

connect the boom to the mast.

14. Tighten all the battens in the mainsail, if required.

Connectthemainsheettotheboom.Feedthemainsailhead

into the track on the mast and connect the main halyard

Link plate system on the F-28. Pulling the lower left clevis

pin releases the shroud, but it remains secured to the float

by the link to the u-bolt to the right, while allowing just

enough slack for the float to fold (see page 24).

Always leave mast raising wires attached until after the boat

is unfolded. F-28 'fold down' anchoring loops shown here.

15. Run all the halyard lines from the mast

through the turning blocks back to the correct

rope clutches on the aft end of the cabin roof.

16. Connect the mast electric plug if re-

quired.

17.Theheadsailcanbefittednowifwished,

orafterlaunching. Thesheetsarelaid out and

connected to the clew (sheets can be kept in

the anchor well for quick access). The head-

sail can be kept under control by a shockcord

which can be left on the foredeck for this

purpose. Just keep it hooked to the toerail or

pulpit.

18. Untie the rudder, and check that the

daggerboardup-lineiscleated.Theoutboard

motor should also be in the up position.

19. The aft mast support is now removed

and stored. You are now ready to launch.

LAUNCHING

WARNING

Before taking the boat to the ramp,

check to see that

there are no powerlines for the mast to touch.

Back the trailer down the ramp until the trailer is sub-

merged up until just past the inward bend of the side frame

members (about 6 to 8' back from the winch post).

Disconnect the winch hook and push the boat off, while

holdingon to the bow line, or you can get on board(but start

the motor first before pushing off). Be careful of crosswinds

or wind from the stern. The boat, with its shallow draft, will

move quickly sideways in such conditions, and you should

not launch until there is sufficient maneuvering room along-

side.

This ability to go sideways is one drawback of shallow

draft,andyoushouldalwaysmakeallowanceswhenlaunch-

ing/retrieving or under power. First priority at every launch

shouldbe toLOWER THE DAGGERBOARD! Thishelpsto

prevent any sideways movement, and gives excellent ma-

neuverability under power.

The F-31 is a large boat to handle at ramps, but because

of its lightness, it is easy to move around. The trick is not to

fightit,buttoplanaheadwhatyouaregoingtodo,andgently

guide it in the correct direction.

An offshore wind at the ramp is ideal, as the boat will just

lie quietly downwind at the end of the bow line. It is just then

asimplematterofboardingoverthefloatbows,andbacking

off or just walking her over to a boarding dock, if available.

Anonshorewindisthemostdifficult,astheboatwillswing

sideways once launched, and come towards the ramp. In

this situation the boat should be held off the ramp from a

central position on the side. You will find a balance point

where it will lie evenly until you are ready to board.

If a dock is alongside it is a good idea to run a stern line

to the dock, so that the stern can be pulled to the dock after

launching, thus preventing it from swinging around.

A good way of launching in all conditions, if extra help is

available, is for someone on board to start the motor before

launching, and simply back the boat away from the ramp -

remembering,ofcourse,todropthedaggerboardonceclear

of the trailer.

Allmodelsarealwayslaunchedfolded,andunfoldingcan

be done either at the dock, or while motoring away, even in

choppy conditions. Folded stability is very good, but it is

limited, particularly on bigger boats like the F-28 and F-

31. Always take care in strong crosswinds and avoid fast

tightturns, asitispossibletorolltheboat over!Ifnecessary,

immediately unfold at least one side to avoid any risk. The

F-31 also has a secondary wider folded beam of 9' 6" which

improves folded stability, and if you intend motoring very far

while folded, you should use this position.

WARNING

Always take care in strong winds while fully folded

and with mast up. A combination of a fast tight turn

and mast windage and weight could cause a roll over

in such conditions. If in doubt, unfold one or both

sides to eliminate this danger

To unfold, first check that there are no ropes across the

The F-31 - folded stability is very good, but don't push your luck!

Launching the F-28

Unfolding can be done at the dock or while motoring away.

But beware, while folding stability is good, it is limited.

when folding, one person operating either beam is all that is

required. The wingnets will extend and tighten themselves.

There is a knack in unfolding of using both your foot to push

ontheupperfoldingstrutandyourhandstopullthetopofthe

beaminanddown.Afterafewtriesyouwillfinditeasytodo.

The shrouds are now secured correctly to the floats, with

the Link Plate (if fitted) being pinned to the chainplate. The

F-24 Mk II does not require this, as its shrouds can be left

permanently attached to chainplate.

With the F-31 fixed mast, the turnbuckle must be directly

connected to chainplate, and there should be just enough

slack in the wire (but not too much - which can overload

tensioners)toinserttheclevispins.Thetopshroudsarethen

tensionedbytheblockandtackletensionersanchoredatthe

aftbeamsandattachedtotheshacklelocatedabout4'upthe

top shrouds. Pull these on firmly, checking that the mast is

straight. The first time out, both tensioner lines should be

marked when the mast is straight, as a reference for future

use and adjustment.

These tensioner tackles on fixed masts will need consid-

erable tightening when going to windward in high winds, as

they keep the mast straight and forestay tight for good

pointingability.Avoidlettingtheleewardshroudbecometoo

loose.

Rotating mast shrouds only need to be moderately tight,

even slightly loose, as a tight rig can restrict rotation.

Once adjusted at initial launching, all turnbuckles can

remain fixed, and should not require to be adjusted during

launchingorretrieving.Justthespringclipandclevispinare

inserted or removed in the turnbuckle toggle or Link Plate.

Oncethe mast is properly supported by the shrouds, the

mast raising wires can be removed.

The spinnaker pole bowsprit can now be fitted or ex-

tended depending on model.

beam recesses, and the tiller is clear. Remove the beam

locking pins, place your foot on the top of the upper

foldingstrut,graspthetopofthebeamandpulldownwards,

while pushing with your foot.

WARNING

Always check that no one has their foot/hand/fingers

in or near the beam recesses when folding, as the

beams can come down quickly!

The float will unfold, but be careful it doesn’t pick up too

much speed towards the end. Hold the beam down and

tighten the bolts using a speed wrench. These bolts should

be tightened firmly, but NOT OVERTIGHTENED.

WARNING

tightened BEFORE sailing

The Beam Bolts must always be in place and

If anything seems hard or difficult when folding, STOP

and see if anything is misaligned, or snagged. It is usually a

wingnet catching. Should you have difficulty in holding the

beams down to tighten the bolts, then the usual cause is

wingnetsthathavebeen lashedtoo tightly.Theseshouldbe

slackened slightly.

It is not necessary to hold both forward and aft beams Beam bolts must always be tightened firmly before sailing

MAST RAISING ON THE WATER

It may be necessary to sometimes launch with the mast

down and raise the mast later. To do this you will need an

additional strong block to attach to the bow roller/stem

fitting. A spinnaker sheet block is ideal. The mast raising

pole/yoke must also be carried on board.

Once in clear water, follow the same mast setup and

raising procedures as listed under RIGGING, but instead of

thetrailerwinchline,usealinefromasheetwinchtothebow

block,andthenbacktothejibhalyard.Themastcanthenbe

winched up. The procedure is reversed for lowering.

RUDDER

The rudder has 2 control lines, one to pull up and one to

pulldown.Thesearecolorcoded,withred(fordanger)topull

up, blue, for deep water, to pull down. The rudder will kick

back, should it hit bottom hard enough, the pull down line

pulling through the cleat.

Athighspeeds,thecleatalonemaynotbeenoughtohold

the rudder down. In this case, a lock/shear pin can be fitted

through the case and blade as a positive lock down.

Theruddermayalsohaveanextrahorncleatonthetiller,

and this should only be used if the hold down cleat is worn,

and the lock/shear pin is not available. Never use the horn

cleat where there is a danger of grounding.

DAGGERBOARD

Liketherudder,thedaggerboardhas2controllines,one

topullup(red)andonetopulldown(blue).Thedaggerboard

willnotkickback,itbeingdesignedtobreakoffshoulditever

hitbottomhardenough.Thisprotectsthedaggerboardcase

fromdamageinmostcases-amuchmoreexpensiverepair.

Obviously,oneshouldstillbecarefularoundshallowwaters,

keepingalert,andtheboatspeeddown.Thedaggerboardis

verystrong andwillonlybreakoffwithanexceptionally hard

grounding. Normally you can expect the boat to come to a

shuddering stop, with no damage, should you hit bottom at

speeds less than 6 knots or so. It’s then just a matter of

retracting the daggerboard and continuing on your way.

CAUTION

Even at low speeds,

a grounding can cause the crew

to be thrown forward,

and care should be taken to

prevent this, or to be prepared for it.

Slow Down In

Shallow Water.

The daggerboard case itself is exceptionally strong, and

isnotlikelytobedamagedinagrounding,thoughthiscannot

be guaranteed. Even with a lost daggerboard, your Corsair

trimaran will still be sailable, and will still go to windward. In

this case you should allow her to heel as far as possible,

submerging the lee float to pick up lateral area.

When maneuvering in confined waters always have the

board down. This promotes quick turns, preventing any

sideways motion. In general, the board should always be

down, except perhaps when running downwind in light

conditions. However, no speed advantage has ever been

proven for this, so it is probably easier to just leave it down.

The board should always be half to fully down when

running or reaching in heavy winds or seas. It greatly

enhances directional control, keeping the tiller very light.

Should you at any time find the helm heavy, then the

cause is either, the daggerboard is up, or, the rudder has

kicked back slightly (always watch for this). Another

possible cause can be the mainsail sheeted in too tight (a

common fault). Even in the strongest winds, or the fastest

20 knot spinnaker run, the helm should always be light

enough for easy one-handed control. If not, you should

check for reasons why.

MAST SETUP

Rig tension and mast setup are very important for good

F-28 transom hung rudder being lifted up - note how tiller

can give extra leverage by pull up line being cleated to it.

Shroud tensioner system as used on the F-27 and F-31

sailing performance and while rotating masts do not require

muchrigtension(toallowfullmastrotation),mostownersdo

nottensionfixedmastrigsenough.Toavoidthis,asimplerig

tension gauge (Loos Type recommended) available at Ma-

rine stores can be purchased, and this includes hints on

tensioning your rig. Rigging wire will stretch a little initially

and all settings should be checked after a few sails.

All masts should be set up with some prebend (center of

mast pushed forward). This will range from as little as 3/4"

with Rotating masts (even less with wing masts), to 3 to 5"

with fixed masts. Mainsail should then be cut to suit this.

There is no correct amount of prebend, other than each

mast should have some, and it can be used to control the

mainsail shape to some degree. This means that if the

mainsail is cut for say 3" prebend, less will make the main

fullerforlightairs.More,willtendtoflattenthemainforwindy

conditions.

Prebend in Rotating masts is harder to adjust in this

regard, but the ability to rotate the mast can give an even

greater control over mainsail fullness.

For good windward performance the forestay MUST BE

TIGHT and this cannot be emphasized too much. Fixed

masts can control this by pulling on the shroud tensioners,

and more mainsheet tension. Rotating masts can only in-

crease mainsheet tension, but the superior mainsail shape

due to the rotating mast, more than makes up for this.

An important rule, vital to the well being of all masts,

particularly fixed masts, is to be sure that your leeward cap

shroud never becomes TOO LOOSE. Some looseness is

notunusual,butifitisverylooseandvisiblyfloppingaround,

you could risk losing your mast.

To tighten the shrouds on a fixed mast while underway,

youcanusethespinnakerwinchesonthetensioners,orelse

snug up the leeward tensioner a set amount to just remove

any slack. Now tack and pull on the other side an equal

amount.Itiseasiertotensiontheleewardshroudratherthan

the windward one. On the F-31 fixed mast the top shroud's

tension in heavy weather should always be 2500lbs or

more.......... Don’t forget to relieve this when not sailing.

SAILING

This manual is not intended to be a Sailing Instruction

Manual, and it is presumed that all owners will have a

basic sailing knowledge and skill. There are however,

many aspects of sailing a Corsair trimaran efficiently, and

the following covers some of these:

THE BASICS

The mainsail is usually hoisted first. Turn directly into the

wind and commence pulling on the halyard. You may find

winchingnecessary to getthemain fullyup,and if fitted,use

thejibhalyardwinch.Iftheboomrollerfurlingsystemisfitted,

the main will automatically unroll from the boom. Winch the

halyard tight until all the wrinkles just disappear from the

mainsail luff, no tighter, and lock the halyard with the rope

clutch. The topping lift can now be eased.

Allmodelssailandtackeasilyundermainsailalone.Ifyou

have a lot of tacking to clear a channel then it may be much

easier with just the main. You don’t have to worry about

tacking the jib, you won’t be going too fast, particularly in

crowded waters, and visibility is excellent.

Thecorrecttechniquefor sailing mainsail only is to sheet

it free to avoid choking the boat. The traveller can be locked

on the centerline, and the mainsheet slackened off so the

boom is about 12" out from cen-

ter. Your boat speed should be 5

-6knotsin10to15knotsofwind,

even better with a rotating mast.

If you find boat speed is less,

then the problem is an over-

sheeted main or trying to point

too high.

There is a technique involved

in sailing main only, and once

learned how, it is a very relaxed

form of sailing. The secret is to

keep the main eased out more,

particularly after a tack. Don’t try

to point high until boatspeed has

built up.

The jib halyard can now be

connected and the jib hoisted.

Tightenuntilthewrinklesjustdis-

appearfromthejibluff,usingthe

halyard winch if needed. There's

no need to go any tighter. As the

wind increases you will find the

halyard will need tightening,

An F-28R with furled asymmetric spinnaker

When reaching, the headsail

shape can be improved by using

a barber hauler. This is a line

hookedtotheheadsail clew,and

led to a block attached to an eye

onthefloatdeckandthenbackto

a camcleat on the cockpit coam-

ing. Two barber haulers give a

wide range of sheet adjustment.

One can also be used on the

boom to hold it down while run-

ning or reaching. This is much

moreefficientthanthetraditional

boom vang and a good safety

featuretopreventanunexpected

jibe.

Forthebestperformancewhile

running, weight should be kept

forward. At least one crew mem-

ber should sit on the main hull

bowwhenracingdownwind.This

reduces wetted area and can

make a significant difference.

REEFING

Severaldifferentreefingsystemscanbefitted,andallthe

control methods are well documented. The roller reefing

boomas usedonthe F-28andoptionalfor theF-31is avery

effective reefing system, being fast, easy to operate, and

infinitelyadjustable.It’sothermainadvantageistheabilityto

easily roll up the mainsail for storage.

To reef, first disconnect the boom vang (if fitted) and

Cunninghameye tackle. The topping lift should also nowbe

again, just enough to just get the wrinkles out. Sheet the jib

and you are sailing!

If available, two additional controls may be added to the

mainsail at this stage, these being the boom vang (fixed

masts only) which just snaps on, and the Cunningham eye

tackle. A 4:1 fiddle block with cleat is snap shackled to the

mast step, and the line from the top fiddle block is passed

through the Cunningham eye on the sail and hooked to the

horn cleat on the side of the mast. This gives an 8 : 1

purchase, and should be ad-

justedtojustremovethewrinkles

from the mainsail luff. Neither of

these controls are essential for

everyday sailing, their main pur-

posebeingtogivemoreefficient

control over the mainsail. Both

must be removed when roller

furling.

Corsair trimarans are sailed

like any other yacht, the most

notabledifferencesbeingthere-

sponse, lightness of the helm,

and the low angle of heel. This

ranges from an average of 5 to

10 degrees to a maximum of

about 15 degrees.

Pointing ability is excellent,

but care must be taken not to

oversheetortrytopointtoohigh.

Justafewdegreeslesspointing,

with sheets slackened slightly,

can see boatspeed jump from 6

or 7 knots to 9 or 10 knots.

Boom vang and Cunningham eye controls on an F-27

Jib barber hauler in use on an F-27 - will considerably boost performance

used to lift the back of the boom a couple of inches above

horizontal.Thisstopsthemainfromcreepingforwardtobind

against the mast when furling. This may not be required,

depending on the cut of the mainsail.

Nowtake themainhalyard aroundthewinch andrelease

the rope clutch. Go forward with the halyard held in hand,

unlock the furling handle and begin turning. As the main is

rolled down, let the halyard slowly run out to suit. When the

mainisrolledupsufficiently,lockthefurlinghandle,letoffthe

topping lift, return to the cockpit and retension the halyard.

Reefing is complete.

You should always try to locate the head of the reefed

mainsailclosetoorjustaboveastayingpoint,ratherthan in

the middle of a mast panel. This avoids unwanted bending

loads on any unsupported mast section.

As mentioned previously, if you find a problem with the

mainsail rolling up close to and jamming against the mast,

this is usually caused by not lifting the end of the boom

sufficiently with the topping lift.

Youmayalso find iteasiertoregulate the speedatwhich

thehalyardrunsout,asyouwindtheboom,byusingtheball

of your foot on the line just before it enters the mast.

The boom vang cannot be reconnected, but with the

barber hauler system available, if needed, from the floats,

this is not of any importance.

AJiffyreefingsystemmayalsobefitted,inadditiontothe

roller furling boom, and this can give slightly better sail

control for better sailing efficiency.

Main neatly roller reefed. This F-27 is heading for Hawaii

from San Francisco

AAAAA

AAAA

Wrap excess line around cleat so that line

emerging from camcleat is not too long.

To reef, disconnect line from cleat,

unthread from clew eye, and

rethread through new reefing eye.

More line will be required and this

comes from the excess on cleat

AAAA

Rolled Main

Cunningham/reefing

Eye line

Reefing eye should

also be lashed around

mast

Mast

Boom

linestothedeck,onefromeachsideforabsolutecontrol,but

this can also be just another complication and is not neces-

sary for general sailing.

WINDWARD PERFORMANCE

All Corsair models will point very high if set up and sailed

correctly, but this can also be very dependent on the crew’s

skill. It is possible to point just as high or higher than an

equivalent monohull, but this may not be the fastest way to

windward.Agoodmultihulliscapableofmuchhigherspeeds

to windward than a mono, which also brings the apparent

wind forward, to where pointing will be lower, but the result-

ant speed to windward is much greater.

Onethingtoavoid is over sheeting the headsail,aswhile

pullingthisonverytightwillguaranteeagoodpointingangle,

the boat speed may be slow. The correct way is to let the

sheet out 1 - 2 “ from being tight on, so that the curve of the

To use, simply roller reef as de-

scribed above, but only roll the main

upuntiltheselectedjiffyreefingpoints

arereached(twosetsusuallyincluded

as standard). Lock the furling handle

as before, and then reattach the Cun-

ninghameyetackleto thereefing tack

eye.

Now unthread theouthaulline and

rethread it through the new reefing

clew eye. All the controls of a jiffy

reefing system are now in place, ex-

cept you don’t have to tie off the sail it

beingalready neatlyrolledaround the

boom! It is advisable to take a line

fromtheCunninghameyeforwardand

aroundthe mast. This avoids the pos-

sibilityoftheboltropepullingoutofthe

mast groove.

ROTATING MAST CONTROL

The correct rotation of a rotating

mast will give a much more efficient

and powerful mainsail. It is thus important that the rig not be

set up too tight as this can prevent full rotation.

There are many opinions on what the correct amount of

rotationshouldbe,butageneralguidelineistokeepthemast

rotated enough to give a smooth, even, transition from the

mast to the mainsail on the leeward side.

Theamountofrotationwilldependonthetypeandshape

of mast, and can range from 35 to 90 degrees from the boat

centerline.Agoodrule of thumb is for the mast to be rotated

around 40 degrees more than the boom.

40°

CLOSE HAULED WITH MAST AT 40°

RELATIVE TO BOOM

Avoidallowing themast torotateorswingbackandforth,

which can happen in light winds combined with waves, or

when sailing off the wind with less sail pressure. This is

usually prevented by having the mainsheet angled forward

from the boom, which forces the boom forward to keep the

mast rotated when pulled tight.

The amount of mast rotation is controlled by a line to the

rotation arm on the mast from either the boom or the deck.

Alinefromtheboomhastheadvantageofbeingself-tacking,

bymaintaining the mast at a constant rotation anglerelative

totheboomonallpointsofsail.However,thecontrollinewill

have to be detached from a roller furling boom and trans-

ferred to an eye on the deck when furling the main.

Acontrollinefromthedeckisalsoself-tacking,butitdoes

notautomaticallyadjustfordifferentanglesofsail.Itwillthus

needtobeletoutwhenbearingoff.Someracersliketofittwo

F-28 Mainsail being roller furled. Note foot being used to control halyard.

F-28R Mast Rotator Arm

thingstoachieve inanyboat,but with alittlecare and tuning

a Corsair is one of the best.

REACHING

When reaching, it is vital that the mainsail be let out far

enough.Acommonmistakeistosheetitintootight,withloss

of boat speed, a heavy helm and an excessive heel angle.

ALWAYS REMEMBER YOU WILL GENERALLY GO

FASTERBYEASINGTHESHEETSOUT.PULLINGTHEM

ON TIGHTER IS MORE LIKELY TO SLOW YOU DOWN

Your mainsail should have leach tell tails fitted as stan-

dard. Watch these, and should they disappear behind the

mainsail to leeward, then you are sheeted in too tight. They

should always be flowing aft.

In light winds the mainsheet system can tend to bind and

be hard to let out. To overcome this there is sometimes a

lever on the side of the camcleat block that disconnects the

ratchet. The mainsheet system will then run out easily.

The headsail should also be barber hauled out to the

floats when reaching. This is used to get the perfect shape

intheheadsail(sothatitdoesn’tbackwindthemain),andwill

boost reaching performance significantly.

SCREACHER

This is an optional roller furling wire or Kevlar luff

headsail leach matches the curve of the mainsail. It should

then not backwind the main, and your pointing angle and

boatspeed should both be excellent.

Once you have achieved good boatspeed, then experi-

ment by tightening sheets very slightly, pointing slightly

higher, while trying to maintain the same boatspeed.

Themainsailtravellershouldbearound6"towindwardin

lighter conditions, then around the centerline in moderate

winds, and as the wind increases, moved outboard slightly

and more mainsheet tension applied. In very strong winds

themainsheetshouldbepulledonastightaspossible.Stand

aboveitandpullit on as hard as you can -mostsailorsdon't

have this tight enough in strong winds. A tight mainsheet

helps keep the forestay straight for good pointing ability.

If the jib is backwinding the main, open the slot, by

movingthe travellera littlemoretocenter. Keepinganopen

slot between jib and main is crucial to good windward

performance,asanybackwindingofthemainwillchokethe

boat.Equallyasimportant,thejibmustberelativelyflatwith

NOHOOKintheleach,andnotoversheeted.Leachbattens

are highly recommended to keep the leach flat.

Ifsetupandsailedcorrectly,aCorsairtrimaranwillmatch

the windward ability of the best monohull racers, 20 to 30%

larger. Pointing high and going fast is one of the hardest

Achieving good windward performance can be very satisfying, but it does depend on a lot of factors being right. Screacher

can be left up permanently as shown on this F-28R

lower. However, the risk of twist when hoisting can then be

higher, and cruisers will usually not experience the sort of

high loads that some hard racers can induce, in the search

for the ultimate performance.

The screacher can be tacked easily when needed by

rolling up and then unrolling on the new side.

SPINNAKER

Thespinnakerisaveryeasysailtouseonatrimaran,due

to the wide beam and level sailing. The spinnaker thus

becomes averypracticalandsafesailforfamilysailing,with

veryfewcontrolproblems.TheF-24,F-28andF-31nowonly

use asymmetric spinnakers, which are the easiest to use,

and the fastest if used correctly.

The asymmetric spinnaker can be launched from the

leeward wingnet, or main hull bow, and the sheets led back

toblocksonthefloatsneartheaftbeamsforgeneralallround

performance. For better pointing ability, particularly when

tackingdownwind,aclosersheeting angle is better, and the

ideal position will vary depending on spinnaker. A block on

amovablestraparoundtheaftbeam gives plenty of options

in this regard.

Thetacklineisledfromablockattheendofthepoleback

alongthemaindecktoacleatonthecabinroofattheaftend.

Toset,connecttackline,sheet,andhalyard.Pullontackline

until tack is at the end of pole, hoist and then sheet in.

SPINNAKER JIBING

The asymmetric spinnaker can be jibed either through

inside in front of the screacher or forestay, or around the

outside. With 'inside' jibing the sheets are run between the

spinnaker tack and the screacher if fitted, forestay if not.

Outside jibing requires the sheets to be run outside the

spinnaker tack.

Insidejibingisprobablythe mostcommon,asoutside

jibing does have the risk of a sheet going under the boat,

combination genoa/reacher, flown from the spinnaker

bow pole. The spinnaker halyard is used on the F-24,

while a separate dedicated halyard is used in both the

F-28 and F-31R. This allows the screacher to be

always left up while furled, ready for instance use.

This multipurpose sail can be a perfect all-around,

first choice, additional sail for cruisers, or an essential

powerhouse for racers. It is still a developing sail in

manyrespects,andoffers some significant and worth-

while advantages.

It can be used very effectively to windward in light

airs, and for reaching in moderate airs. It thus elimi-

natesthe regularhankon genoa,whileprovidingmore

sail area, and it is easier to change headsails. The jib

is just dropped and the screacher unfurled when re-

quired. Sheeting is to a simple strap around the aft

beam, which can be moved in and out for the correct

sheeting angle.

Forthebestwindwardperformance,itisveryimpor-

tanttokeepthelufftight,andmanyracingownershave

even fitted 2 to 1 halyards to keep the clutch loads

Screacher being used to windward - makes a great all-around sail

for cruisers. Easy to use, and easy to put away.

Asymmetric spinnaker on an F-24 Mk II being raced very

hard. Note the extra long tiller extensions each side rigged

up by these Australian skiff sailors, which are held in place

by shockcord to the aft beams. Works very well.

though this is lessened by using a continuous one piece

sheet. The advantage is that the sail does not have to fit

throughthenarrowslotbetweenspinnakerandscreacher.

With inside jibing, the skipper should start turning

slowlywhilethecreweasesthesheettokeepthesailfull.

As the clew nears the slot, or the spinnaker starts to

collapse,thenewsheetshouldbequicklypulledintopull

the spinnaker through the slot and around, while also

releasing the old sheet.

Outside jibing procedure is similar, with the crew

waitinguntiltheclewreachesjustinfrontoftheheadstay,

and then pulling in the new sheet, with the sail going

around the outside.

In all cases it is very important that the skipper turns

slowly, and then heads up to fill the sail before coming to

the right course.

SPINNAKER SAILING DOWNWIND

On first using an asymmetric spinnaker you may be

disappointed with downwind performance with a fixed mast

- unless you take note of what is said here. The asymmetric

cannot match a full symmetric spinnaker straight downwind

becauseofthesmaller,flatterarea,andarestrictedabilityto

project to windward. The major advantage is considerably

easier handling, and a superior reaching performance.

Tackingdownwinddoesnotworkwellwithfixedmasts,as

the mast interferes with mainsail flow, and the main is thus

notveryeffective.Arotatingmastismuchmoreefficientand

such boats can achieve a very large performance increase,

making downwind tacking the fastest way to go.

However, the same effect can be achieved with a fixed

mast by using the jib inside the spinnaker which, besides

increasing area, helps smooth the flow over the mast and

main with spectacular results.

Thebasictechnique/ruleistosaildownwindwhile keeping

theapparentwindatabout90°,trimmingthesailssotheyare

notstallingorluffing.Thejib,forinstance,shouldbesheeted

to the float just aft of the forward beam. The extra speed

generated will pull the apparent wind further forward, allow-

ing you to go deeper and deeper while maintaining a very

highspeed.Justkeeptheapparentwindataround90°.Itcan

be tricky to get the right angles, but if done correctly, the

results can be devastating. So try it! Flying the jib inside the

spinnaker may also help improve performance with a rotat-

ing mast in light winds.

Asymmetric spinnaker on an F-28R. Jib can be flown inside by racers as shown for better performance in light airs

storm.It appears to virtually eliminate the danger ofcapsize

from both extreme wave action and hurricane force winds.

Other variations of the above are possible depending on

the circumstances. Experienced and alert racing crews can

delay reefing to even well beyond the above limits.

A quick way to reduce sail, and achieve a very comfort-

able and safe motion is to simply drop the jib and sail under

main only, reefed if considered necessary. This avoids the

need to tack the jib, and the fully battened main remains

docile and easy to handle.

Sometimes, when running downwind, it is better to drop

the main and run under jib only. Corsair built trimarans can

go to windward and tack while sailing under either jib or

mainsail alone.

2. When winds are strong and gusty, and the boat is being

sailedhard,thenalwayshave thesheet ofthe largestsail

up, be it the mainsail, genoa, or spinnaker, in hand,

ready for quick release. Use only the camcleats provided

andnever use self-tailers ascleatsinhigh winds -theyare

too difficult to release fast.

Alwaysbeready to releasethesheetsif you feeltheboat

is being pressed too hard. Instruct your crew to do likewise.

If concerned, then just reef until you are comfortable.

SAFE SAILING RECOMMENDATIONS

DANGER

Be fully aware that it is possible to

capsize

any multihull

and the following rules should

always be observed for safe sailing:

1. Reduce sail early as follows:

a.Genoa/screachershouldbereplacedbyjibinwindspeeds

greater than 12 knots.

b. Mainshouldbe reefedtofirstset of reefpointswhen wind

reaches 20 knots.

c. Main should be further reefed to second reef points when

wind reaches 25 knots.

d. In winds over 35 knots main should be roller reefed to 4th

batten from the top and jib replaced by storm jib

e.Over50knots,mainshouldbefurledmore,orcompletely,

leaving only the storm jib.

Ifnecessary,allsailcanbetakenoffandaproperlysetup

Storm Parachute Anchor put out. This is now a well proven

method for a multihull to survive even the worst offshore

This is definitely not safe sailing with a novice crew aboard! The F-27 shown is sailing in 30 knots with full sail, and an

experienced crew. Boat speed reached 23 knots. Note how the main hull bow stays high, while the boat planes on the aft

sections - this is an important safety characteristic of all Farrier designs. It is very hard to bury the bow. DO NOT do this sort

of thing with your family on board. To be safe, always reef early.

This manual suits for next models

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