DeAGNOSTINI MODEL SPACE Red Bull Racing RB7 Manual

Red Bull Racing RB7: Step by Step
™
1
Stages 93-96
Pack 24
RB7
RADIO CONTROLLED • BUILD IT YOURSELF • NITRO ENGINE
™

Red Bull Racing RB7: Step by Step
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2
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RB7
Editorial and design by Continuo Creative, 39-41 North Road, London N7 9DP
All rights reserved © 2014 De Agostini UK Ltd, Battersea Studios 2, 82 Silverthorne Road, London SW8 3HE
RED BULL RACING RB7 complies with CE regulations.
NOT SUITABLE FOR CHILDREN UNDER THE AGE OF 14. THIS PRODUCT IS NOT A TOY AND IS
NOT DESIGNED OR INTENDED FOR USE IN PLAY. ITEMS MAY VARY FROM THOSE SHOWN.
Photo credits: All photographs copyright
© DeAgostini
Visit our website www.model-space.com
Intro
Driving your RB7 – part two
Painting the running body
Stage 93
The wing mirrors, steering wheel and front wing
Stage 94
Display body details
Stage 95
Preparing the running body
Stage 96
Running body front wing
Page 486
Page 488
Page 493
Page 499
Page 505
Page 509
Contents

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486
DRIVING YOUR RB7 
PART TWO
WHEN YOU HAVE BECOME FAMILIAR WITH THE ACCELERATION, BRAKING AND STEERING
RESPONSES OF YOUR RB7, YOU CAN MOVE ON TO MORE CHALLENGING MANOEUVRES.
IN PARTICULAR, YOU SHOULD PRACTISE YOUR CORNERING TECHNIQUE.
Your rst practice course (see Pack 23) was an oval that
you drove around clockwise, making right-hand turns,
and anticlockwise, making left-hand turns. When you are
suciently condent with that, you can move on to driving
a gure-of-eight course (see diagram on the right), making
alternate right-hand and left-hand turns. The relatively long
diagonals of the gure-of-eight will also give you more
practice in accelerating and braking than you got on the
oval course. However, remember that the engine of your
car will still be running on one of its rst three tankfuls, so it
is still at the running-in stage – don’t give it full throttle yet!
READJUSTING THE STEERING
The gure-of-eight will also give you more practice in
steering the car when it is travelling towards you (see page
473, Pack 23). You will soon be able to focus not just on
going quickly along the straights but also on the bends, so
as to negotiate them as quickly as possible. The rst step
is to readjust the steering angle. By turning the STEERING
DUAL RATE knob on your remote control transmitter
slightly clockwise (see the photograph on page 487), you
will increase the angle through which your model’s front
wheels will turn, and this will allow you to take the corners
closer to the cones.
Going around the cones in a gure-of-eight pattern enables
you to practise both right and left turns.

Red Bull Racing RB7: Step by Step
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But it also makes the steering wheel on the transmitter
more sensitive, so until you get used to that, at high
speeds your car might turn too sharply and slide o when
cornering. It’s best to run a few slowish laps to get used
to the larger steering angle and to develop a feel for how
close and how fast you can drive through the corners
without your model losing traction.
CORNERING TECHNIQUE
You will soon notice that your model can’t go through a
corner very fast if it is turning too close to the cone. It is
quicker if you cut the apex of the corner. Anyone who has
ever watched a motor race will have seen how the drivers
move to the outside of the track when they approach a
corner, cut in across the apex, and then head back towards
the outside of the track when they exit the bend. They do
this so that they have to slow the car down less before
the corner and can follow a faster line with a less extreme
steering angle.
You should use a similar technique when driving your
RB7 model, choosing your driving line so that its apex
comes a little earlier than the apex of the corner itself (see
diagrams on the left). The point at which your car is closest
to the inner edge of the track (indicated by the dotted
lines in the diagrams) is thereby moved forward. Using this
method, when you exit the bend you can start accelerating
sooner and enter the following straight at a higher speed.
By driving on this racing line, you will be making full use
of the width of the track, and this tried and tested method
gains valuable time in a race.
To take a corner at the highest possible speed, choose your driving line so
that its apex (diagram b) comes before that of the corner (diagram a). Then
the point at which you come closest to the inner edge of the track is moved
forwards. In this way, you can accelerate out of the corner earlier and obtain
a speed advantage for your RB7 on the straight that follows.
a) apex of the corner
b) apex of the racing line
Apex
Apex
Apex
Apex
Car is at its
closest to the
inner edge
Car is at its
closest to the
inner edge
Car is at its
closest to the
inner edge
Car is at its
closest to the
inner edge
To enable your RB7 model to take corners more tightly, you increase the
steering angle of the front wheels slightly by turning the remote control
transmitter’s STEERING DUAL RATE knob a little way clockwise.
487

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488
PAINTING THE
RUNNING BODY
YOUR RC CAR WILL ONLY LOOK LIKE SEBASTIAN VETTEL’S RB7 WHEN YOU PAINT
THE TRANSPARENT LEXAN RUNNING BODY TO MATCH THE ORIGINAL. HERE’S HOW
TO GIVE YOUR MODEL THIS DISTINCTIVE APPEARANCE.
After trimming the Lexan blank and making the holes for
the antenna, cylinder head and body supports (see Stage
95), you must remove all dust and grease from it before you
paint it. This step is extremely important, because paint
applied to greasy parts will not adhere reliably and can
easily peel o. Also, any dust trapped by the paint will
spoil the nish.
For the following steps, you will need a craft knife,
masking lm, masking tape (18mm wide), a black marker
pen with water-soluble ink, and three spraycans of Lexan-
compatible paint in the colours blue (Tamiya PS-59), yellow
(Tamiya PS-19) and white (Tamiya PS-1). For the masking
tape, you should get the thinnest you can nd, because
it has to be exible enough to follow the contours of the
body exactly. It will also be used to mask o the body from
the inside.
CLEANING THE BODY
Lexan bodies are painted from the inside. This has the
advantage that, from the outside, the colours will
Only when the Lexan (polycarbonate) body is completely painted will
your model look like the real Red Bull Racing RB7.

Red Bull Racing RB7: Step by Step
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always retain their perfect, high-gloss nish and are not
easily scratched.
Before you start painting, you must remove all particles
of dust and dirt from both the inside and the outside of the
body. Clean the body by rinsing it thoroughly with warm
(not hot) water, then apply a few drops of a degreasing
detergent to a cleaning cloth and use it to remove any
residual dirt and grease, especially from the inside. Finally,
rinse the body thoroughly with clean water and wipe it dry
with a clean lint-free cloth.
In the area behind the cockpit, draw the outline of the upper
air intake with a marker pen, as shown.
To mark o the nose, place the Lexan blank on the display body and draw
along the rear edge of the yellow area.
The dotted red lines show all the areas on the outside of the body that you
should cover with masking lm.
Cut several pieces of masking lm and stick them to the outside
so that they cover all the openings in the bodywork (see the
photograph below left).
Clean the Lexan body with detergent and warm water, then dry it
thoroughly with a lint-free cloth.
489

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After the third blue paint layer has dried, apply a coat of
white paint. This acts as a reective layer and gives the
blue paint an added lustre.
TAPING AND TRIMMING
After cleaning, the next stage in preparing the body for
painting is to mask o the areas where the dierent colours
will be applied. First, place the body the right way up on
your work surface, then cut several pieces of masking foil
and stick them onto the outsides of all the openings in it.
Then take a ne-tipped, water-soluble black marker pen
and, from the outside, draw the outlines of those areas that
will later be painted yellow (see the photographs above
and on page 489).
Next, turn the body over and, from the inside, cover all
the marked-o areas completely with masking tape. Note:
always make sure that the masking tape is pressed smooth
and at against the body at all points. There must be no
wrinkles, and in particular, no gaps between the pieces
of tape – the paint spray is extremely ne and can easily
penetrate such gaps. The result would be traces of blue
colour that will bleed into the yellow areas.
Now use a craft knife to cut through the masking tape
along the external outlines that you marked earlier. When
the last cut has been made, peel away all the surplus tape
from outside the marked areas (see photographs top right).
With a sharp blade, cut though the masking tape along the marked lines.
Work slowly and carefully, because these cut lines will later correspond to
the edges of the dierent painted colours. Then gently remove the excess
masking tape, leaving only the masked areas within the marked lines.
Now cover the marked areas by applying masking tape to the inside of the
body. There must be no gaps.
Apply the blue paint in three thin
layers, the last of which should make
the coating completely opaque. Allow
each coat to dry for at least 15 minutes
before applying the next one. The inset
photograph shows the nal result.
490

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The following day, rst remove the externally applied pieces of masking lm.
Then carefully release the protective lm from the body and pull it o.
PAINTING THE BODY
Spray-painting should only be done outdoors or in a well
ventilated area (note the safety instructions on the can),
but for the paint to stick to the surface of the Lexan as
eectively as possible, the ambient temperature must not
be below 5°C. First, take the can of blue paint and hold
it at least 30cm from the car body, so that the paint will
be evenly distributed on the inside. Then start painting,
sweeping the can slowly back and forth so that the paint
mist covers the inside surfaces evenly without smearing or
forming teardrops. Apply the rst coat of paint sparingly – it
is sucient if it slightly clouds the body.
Let the paint dry for at least 15 minutes (or speed up the
operation by using a hairdryer, setting it to a lukewarm
temperature and medium speed). Then apply another coat
of blue paint, and when it’s dry, follow it with the third and
nal coat. By now, the paint should be completely opaque.
As soon as the third coat has dried, apply a coat of white
paint on top of it.
Let the paint dry overnight, then remove the tape and
spray the yellow areas with several thin coats. When they
are dry, apply a coat of white, then let the paint harden for a
further night.
On the following day, remove the masking lm and then
the protective lm that covers the outside of the body. The
outlines that you marked will be removed with the lm, and
the result will be a awless body.
Remove the masking tape from the inside of the nose (a), then apply several
thin coats of yellow paint (b). Finally, apply a thin coat of white paint (c).
When you have nished, the running body of your Red Bull Racing RB7
should look much as it does in this photograph. Both colours will have a
awless, shiny nish.
a b c
491

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492 492

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493
IN THIS SESSION, YOU WILL FIT THE WING MIRRORS AND STEERING WHEEL TO
YOUR RB7’S DISPLAY BODY, BEFORE ADDING THE FRONT WING.
THE WING MIRRORS,
STEERING WHEEL
AND FRONT WING
12
3
Phillips screwdriver (size 2)
Black spray paint (suitable for HIPS plastic)
Knife
Tweezers
Modelling adhesive
Tool & Materials
1Steering wheel
2Countersunk screw 3 x 18mm
3Side mirror housings (left and
right)
42 self-tapping countersunk
screws 3 x 14mm
53 self-tapping countersunk
screws 3 x 8mm
62 self-tapping countersunk
screws 3 x 10mm
4
5
6
Stage 93

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494
03
Holding one of the smaller logos
with tweezers, submerge the
decal in a dish of water for a minute,
then apply it to the front of the left side
mirror housing, as shown.
04
Next, repeat the process to apply
the rst of the larger decals to
the top of the mirror housing. Make sure
you follow the positioning shown in the
photo exactly.
05
Repeat Steps 03-04 to apply the
remaining two stickers to the
right side mirror housing.
01
For this session, you will need the decal sheet supplied in Stage 92 and the display
body as assembled over the previous stages. You will also need the components for
the lower nose (Stage 29) and the front wing assembly (Stage 88), along with your model,
so keep these to hand.
02
Lay the decal sheet supplied
with Stage 92 on a cutting mat,
and carefully use a knife to cut out the
four remaining RAUCH logos (two small,
two large, numbered 8 and 9). Trim the
decals as close to the edges of the logos
as possible.

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495
08
Optional: for the ultimate nish,
you may choose to add some
colour to the steering wheel’s controls. If
so, follow the photo above for guidance.
09
Lower the steering wheel into
the holes inside the cockpit
indicated by the red arrows. You do not
need to glue the part in place just yet.
10
Your assembly should look like
this. This phase is complete for
the time being, so set your display body
safely to one side.
06
To mount the side mirrors, dab a small amount of modelling adhesive into the two
holes at the front edges of the display body’s cockpit (see red arrow and circle),
then place the mirrors into these, as shown. 07
The next stage is to prepare the
steering wheel. Place it on a
covered surface and spray it evenly with
suitable black paint, making sure you
cover it from all sides. Wait for the paint
to dry before proceeding.

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496
13
Next, remove the three circled screws from the front end of your model. If the rear
screw is dicult to take out, press down carefully on the pushrod mount so that you
can get a hold of the screw’s head. 14
Turn the model over and remove
the two circled screws.
11
The next phase is to mount the front wing onto your RB7’s chassis. To begin,
lower the lower nose brace supplied with Stage 29 onto the rear of the front wing
assembly, as shown by the red arrow. The parts will t neatly when properly aligned. 12
Holding the parts together, turn
the assembly over and insert
one of the 3 x 8mm countersunk screws
into each of the two holes (see arrows).
Tighten these fully with a screwdriver.

Red Bull Racing RB7: Step by Step
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497
17
Tighten both screws fully with
the screwdriver. 18
Now lower the 3 x 18mm countersunk screw into the rear hole (see red arrow), and
tighten it fully.
15
Turn the model to its upright position, then slide the front wing assembly over the
front end of the chassis so that the screw holes at the rear of the wing line up with
those on the chassis (see arrows). 16
When the holes line up exactly, as
shown above, insert the two 3 x
14mm countersunk screws supplied with
this stage into the indicated holes.

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498
22
Fully tighten all three screws. 23 This session is now complete, so store the display body and chassis away
safely until next time.
19
Again, if you nd it dicult to t
the screw into place, press down
on the pushrod mount a little. 21
Insert another 3 x 8mm
countersunk screw into the
indicated hole and tighten it.
20
Turn the model around again,
and insert the two 3 x 10mm
countersunk screws supplied with this
stage into the indicated holes.

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499
IN THIS SESSION, YOU WILL MOUNT SOME DETAIL PIECES ONTO THE DISPLAY
BODY, INCLUDING THE MIRRORS, TOP CAMERA, REAR LIGHT AND DRIVER’S ARMS.
DISPLAY BODY
DETAILS
12
4
3
Tools & Materials
1Pitot tube
22 mirrors
3Antenna
4Sensor
5Head pad
6Rear light
7Top camera
8Driver’s arms
Knife
Paintbrush
Modelling adhesive
Needle-nose pliers
Masking tape
HIPS-compatible primer in white, and spray
paints in the following colours (Tamiya brand
TS range colour codes given in brackets):
Gloss black (Tamiya TS-14)
Semi-gloss black (Tamiya TS-29)
Pearl blue (Tamiya TS-89)
Silver (Tamiya TS-30)
56
7
8
Stage 94

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500
04
Lay the decal sheet supplied
with Stage 92 on your cutting
mat and carefully cut around the red
decals numbered 2-6, marked here by
the dotted green lines.
05
Submerge the decals in warm
water for a minute, then apply
them to the numbered areas outlined
here by the dotted red lines. Double-
check against the photo for Step 06
to make sure you t the decals in their
correct positions.
06
The top camera should now look
like this. Leave it to one side to
dry fully.
01
First, remove the top camera
from the sprue and place the
part on a cutting mat. Then, using a
knife, carefully remove any burrs left on
the edges.
02
Remove any dirt or grease from
the camera using a damp cloth
with a little detergent, then allow to dry.
Once dry, apply a thin coat of a white
primer to ensure an even nish. Once the
primer is dry, spray a thin layer of gloss
black paint onto the part and allow to dry
for at least 15 minutes.
03
The paint must form an opaque
layer, so if you can see the plastic
through it when it is dry, apply another
thin layer so that it looks like the one in
the photo. Make sure that the paint has
fully dried before continuing.
2 6
53
4

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501
10
When the paint has dried, press
the sensor into the rectangular
hole in the right side of the display
body, following the photo to get the
orientation correct. The lower part of the
sensor must sit within the hole. It is not
necessary to glue the part at this stage.
11
Next, separate the head pad from
the sprue, and remove any burrs. 12
Clean and prime the head
pad, then spray it semi-gloss
black, and leave it to dry fully before
continuing with the assembly.
07
Dot the thin projection on the
top of the air induction pod
(indicated by the arrow) with a little
adhesive, then place the top camera
onto this, as shown.
08
Next, remove the sensor from
the sprue, using a knife. De-burr
the part once it is separated. 09
Clean the sensor the same way
as you cleaned the top camera
in Step 02, and when it is fully dry, spray
it with silver paint. Again, it is advised
to prime the part rst, and if necessary,
to apply two coats for a smooth, fully
opaque nish. Allow the part to
dry completely before continuing.

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502
16
Cut the two arms from the sprue. 17 De-burr, clean, prime and paint
the arms as you have done with
the other components, using semi-gloss
black spray paint. Leave them to dry for
at least 15 minutes.
18
Lower the two arms into the front
of the display body’s cockpit
so that they wrap around the steering
wheel. The pins in the undersides of the
arms will t into the indicated holes in
the body to hold the parts in place.
13
Loosen the screw from the
underside of the driver’s helmet,
then remove it from the display
body’s cockpit.
14
Apply some adhesive to the area
marked by the dotted green line,
then press the head pad against it so that
it sits in the recess (arrowed) in the yellow
plastic. Make sure the at side of the head
pad faces the glued surface, with the
curved edge facing outwards.
15
Your assembly should now look
like this.

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503
22
Remove the rear light from the
moulding and carefully de-burr
the part. 23
Dab some glue onto the reverse
of the rear light, and set it into
the square hole at the rear of the chassis. 24Remove the pitot tube from the
sprue and de-burr it.
19
Remove and de-burr the mirrors. 20 Clean and prime the mirrors,
then spray them with silver paint.
This time, you need only paint the front,
smooth sides. Set them aside to dry.
21
Dab some adhesive into the
recesses of the side mirrors, then
use needle-nose pliers to insert the
painted mirrors, with the painted sides
facing outwards. Press the parts into
place and allow to dry.