DeAGNOSTINI MODEL SPACE Red Bull Racing RB7 User manual

Red Bull Racing RB7: Step by Step
™
1
Stages 85-88
Pack 22
RB7
RADIO CONTROLLED • BUILD IT YOURSELF • NITRO ENGINE
™

Red Bull Racing RB7: Step by Step
™
2
™
RB7
Editorial and design by Continuo Creative, 39-41 North Road, London N7 9DP
All rights reserved © 2014 De Agostini UK Ltd, Battersea Studios 2, 82 Silverthorne Road, London SW8 3HE
RED BULL RACING RB7 complies with CE regulations.
NOT SUITABLE FOR CHILDREN UNDER THE AGE OF 14. THIS PRODUCT IS NOT A TOY AND IS
NOT DESIGNED OR INTENDED FOR USE IN PLAY. ITEMS MAY VARY FROM THOSE SHOWN.
Photo credits: All photographs copyright
© DeAgostini
Visit our website www.model-space.com
Intro
The Kyosho KR-200 receiver
Setting up the servos
Bodywork adhesives
Stage 85
Nose and front wing
Stage 86
The throttle and brake rods
Stage 87
Upgrading the front shocks
Stage 88
The display body
Page 431
Page 433
Page 437
Page 439
Page 446
Page 452
Page 454
Contents

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THE KYOSHO
KR200 RECEIVER
YOUR RB7’S RECEIVER CONVERTS THE CONTROL SIGNALS FROM THE TRANSMITTER
INTO INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE SERVOS. HERE’S AN OVERVIEW OF THE KR200
RECEIVER SUPPLIED TO SUBSCRIBERS WITH THE KYOSHO SYNCRO REMOTE
CONTROL TRANSMITTER.
The Kyosho KR-200 is a digital receiver. Like the Kyosho
Syncro RC transmitter, with which it is supplied, it operates
on the 2.4GHz band. It is very compact, its dimensions
being 36 x 26 x 14mm (length x width x height), so it can be
tted into the RC box of your RB7 model without diculty.
The KR-200 housing is made of semi-transparent plastic
and – like the other components of your RB7 – it is resistant
to high temperatures. This is important, because it is
mounted close to the engine. Viewed from above, the
receiver is divided into two areas. The right-hand part,
one-third of the length, is slightly raised and contains a
large socket that is used to connect the power supply and
servo cables. A maximum of four servos can be connected.
There are four small notches on the left side of the socket,
and corresponding projections on each of the plugs on the
main switch and servo cables. These are the reverse polarity
protection, ensuring that the plugs can only be inserted the
right way round. An antenna 150mm long protrudes from
Thanks to its compact design, the KR-200 ts easily into the
RC box of your Red Bull Racing RB7 model. Two superimposed
circuit boards screwed together contain the entire electronics
of the receiver.

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CH2 is for
the throttle and brake
servo cable
CH1 is for the steering
servo cable
B/C is for the receiver’s
power supply
‘Bind set’ button. Pressing
this button saves the hopping
sequence of the remote control
transmitter in the receiver.
‘Fail Safe set’ button. Use this
to program a control command
that will be executed if the
receiver loses the signal
from the transmitter.
‘F-G’ switch. ‘F’ limits the
bandwidth of the signals and
allows the system to be used
in France. Elsewhere, the switch
should be set to ‘G’.
LED indicator
the upper end of the socket panel. The left-hand side of
the receiver carries a silver sticker. This is labelled with the
brand name, the type of device and the names of the two
buttons and one switch that are located there. It also shows
the connections for the servo channels and the power.
BIND SET AND FG SWITCH
The top button on the receiver is labelled ‘Bind set’. This
saves the data with which the transmitter and receiver
‘bind’ or synchronise with each other (see the introductory
article on radio control frequencies in Pack 21 for more
information on this). The frequency hopping sequence is
sent from the transmitter to the receiver and stored there
(further details of this will be given in Pack 23).
To bind the two devices, rst turn on the transmitter and
then the receiver. Now check that the LED on the top left of
the receiver is lit or ashing. If it’s lit, the receiver knows the
hopping sequence already and you will be able to control
the servos of the model. If the LED ashes, however, the
receiver is unassigned and the servos will not respond. In
that case, press the‘Bind set’ button with a ballpoint pen or
other pointed item until the LED remains lit. This completes
the binding process. If you have connected everything
correctly (see Stage 83), the servos can now be controlled
with the transmitter.
The‘F-G’ switch is used to limit the bandwidth of the
transmitted signals. It is only important when the equipment
is used in France, because there the permitted frequency
band is narrower than elsewhere. Outside France, the switch
should be set to‘G’, as should the F-G switch on the
transmitter itself.
THE FAIL SAFE FUNCTION
By using the ‘Fail Safe set’ button, you can preset what
happens if the receiver loses contact with the transmitter.
The receiver performs this function automatically, but it is
not preset at the factory and must be programmed rst.
Turn on the transmitter, then the receiver. Press the‘Fail
Safe set’ button until the LED ashes quickly. Then use the
remote control function that you want to come into play if
the receiver crashes or fails, and at the same time press the
button. Once the LED is continuous, the fail safe mode has
been set. We recommend that you program the fail safe to
apply maximum braking to stop your car if its receiver loses
contact. To do this, push the trigger all the way forward
while the LED is ashing and press ‘Fail Safe set’.
The right-hand side of the KR-200 receiver carries the connections for the
power supply and four servos.
On the left-hand side of the KR-200 are two buttons and a switch, with
which the receiver can be programmed.

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SETTING UP
THE SERVOS
THE THROTTLE, BRAKE AND STEERING OF YOUR RB7 RACER ARE OPERATED BY THE
SERVOS VIA THREE CONNECTING RODS. PROPER ADJUSTMENT OF THE SERVOS
AND THE RODS IS ESSENTIAL FOR PRECISE CONTROL OF YOUR MODEL.
As the last links in the chain, the remote control servos
and rods transfer all the commands of the RC driver to the
steering mechanism, the throttle and the brake. At rest, the
steering wheel on the transmitter should be in its central
position, and the steering servo and steering linkage
should assume their neutral, or zero, positions, so that the
model drives straight. At rst, however, this is unlikely to
be the case, and you can’t see whether the round-toothed
pinion of the servo is centred. There is a similar problem
with the throttle and brake servo.
By Stages 20 and 86, you will have set up the horns of the
steering and the throttle and brake servos so that they are
straight, but to establish their actual zero positions, you
have to adjust them when the RC system is in operation.
THE NEUTRAL POSITION
When you have checked that there are fresh cells in both
battery compartments (four in the model and four in the
base of the transmitter), and that the onboard electronics
are correctly connected, switch on the transmitter. The two
LEDs below the words BAT LEVEL should light up.
The throttle and steering trim controls are in their central (neutral) positions
when the small indent on the top of each knob is in line with the small white
arrowhead above the circular scale.
If one of the servo horns of your model moves from its neutral
position when switched on – as this throttle/brake servo horn has –
you will have to correct its position.

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When correctly adjusted, the horn of the throttle/brake servo will be in the
‘neutral’position, that is, parallel with the long axis of your car (indicated
by the dotted red line in the photograph). The position of the servo pinion
must not be changed.
The horn of the steering servo also forms the upper part of the servo saver
unit. In its neutral position, the component must be aligned so that the arm
of the servo horn (red arrow) is at a right angle to the long axis of the car
(dotted red line).
Check that the knobs below them, the two trim controls,
are in their middle positions. If not, adjust them accordingly
(see upper photograph on page 433). Now push the power
switch on your model to the‘ON’ position. (This is the order
of events you should always follow when you run your car
in the future.)
What happens next is likely to be that the servos twitch
and whirr, and move the servo horns a little way from the
neutral positions in which they were aligned (see lower
photo on page 433). If that doesn’t happen, it may be the
case that you were lucky, and the servos were already
zeroed. To set a servo horn back to its neutral position if it
has moved after switching on, rst switch o the
transmitter and the car’s main switch, then remove the
horn’s retaining screw using a size 2 Phillips screwdriver.
Carefully pull the horn, with the linkages attached to it,
upwards and o the servo pinion, but take care not to
change the position of the pinion, otherwise the servo
motor will lose its zero position.
Now check that the horn is in the neutral position. In the
case of the throttle/brake servo this means you must
position the horn so that it is parallel to the long axis of
your car (see photograph above left). In this position, push
it carefully back onto the pinion.
If the horn of the steering servo has lost its neutral
position while zeroing, proceed as follows. Undo the xing
screw and remove the servo saver (consisting of upper and
lower parts and a C-ring) from the pinion. In order not to
change the position of the pinion, hold it in place with a
small athead screwdriver below the base of the servo
saver. Then adjust the servo saver so that the horn points at
a right angle to the long axis of the model (see photograph
above right).
STEERING LINKAGE
The front wheels should be facing exactly in a straight line
after you set the servo horn as above. If they aren’t, you
need to correct this before you x the servo saver back onto
the pinion of the steering servo. You can adjust the length
of the steering rod (and thus the positions of the wheels)
by turning the ball end on the opposite end of the steering
rod from the servo horn. You do not need to remove the
rod from the servo horn. If necessary, refer to the Assembly
Guides in Pack 5 (Stages 18 and 20).

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When you pull the trigger of the transmitter all the way back towards the
handle, the throttle linkage must open the air intake of the carburettor
completely. The brake rod at the other end of the servo horn moves
unimpeded through the eye of the brake lever.
When you push the trigger away from the handle, the brake rod actuates
the brake lever. The carburettor slide, however, should only close as far as
the preset idle opening when the black metal spring on the throttle linkage
is fully compressed.
The adjustment for the idling stop is on the side of the carburettor body.
When you turn it clockwise, the inlet gap increases (see red arrows). To start
with, choose a large idle gap, rather than one that is too narrow (minimum
0.3mm, maximum 1mm).
When both servo horns have been zeroed, you can again
switch on as described above (rst the transmitter, then the
car’s power switch). The horns should now be in their
neutral positions. Minor discrepancies (up to 5°) from the
zero positions described above are not serious, and you can
adjust them by using the throttle and steering trim controls
on the transmitter (see the upper photo on page 433) to
oset them slightly.
THROTTLE/BRAKE CHANGEOVER
Now that the servo horns have been perfectly aligned, it’s
important to ensure that their alternating movements are
transferred optimally via the linkages. Of particular interest
here are the throttle and the brake linkages.
Let’s look at the operation of these two opposing
mechanisms more closely. To do this, rst remove the air
lter so that you have a clear view of the carburettor inlet. If
you haven’t already done so, switch on the RC system and
pull the trigger of the transmitter all the way back to the
handle (full throttle) and then push the trigger away from it
(full braking).
Compare what you see with the two photos above,
looking rst at the carburettor. Even with full braking
applied (see photograph above right), there must be a gap
of at least 0.3mm in the carburettor’s air inlet. If the gap in
your model is narrower, you should adjust the idling stop
screw to increase it (see photograph below). If the gap is
correct, you can move on to the ne adjustment of the
throttle linkage.
min 0.3mm
435

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Now release the transmitter trigger and look at the
carburettor. The slide must not move from this position
during emergency braking. If the carburettor inlet is
constricted when braking (pushing the trigger forward
from the neutral position), the throttle linkage of your
carburettor doesn’t have enough play. You can correct this
by adjusting the collar on the end of the throttle linkage,
using a 1.5mm Allen key. The return spring pulls the throttle
lever towards the idle stop. Now push the collar gently up
to the plastic tubing at the end of the throttle linkage and
x it there. Next, deal with the brake linkage in the same
way. Again, the adjusting collar should only lightly touch
the piece of tubing. Make sure that the brake lever is not
under tension. Now the linkages have been adjusted to the
idling position – that is, when you take your nger o the
trigger on the transmitter, the engine will idle and the car
can roll freely because the brake is not applied (or only
minimally so). Now you can dene the extreme deections
of each of the servos.
MAXIMUM SERVO DEFLECTION
The Kyosho Syncro and similar remote controls allow you to
set the nal positions of the throttle/brake servo separately
for each direction of rotation. Pull the trigger all the way
back towards the handle (full throttle), and set the EPA
(End Point Adjustment) knob B to the maximum deection
of the throttle linkage, so that the carburettor slide opens
the inlet completely. Then push the trigger away from the
handle until it stops (full braking), and set the position of
EPA knob A to the desired maximum braking power. The
positions shown below are a good starting point.
Push each of the adjusting collars along its respective rods so that they just
touch the silicone tubes used as buers. There should be no tension forces
acting on either the throttle or brake.
Because the set screws are xed to the adjustment collars with thread-
locking compound, loosening them will require some force. Apply locking
compound to the screw threads again before re-tightening them.
EPA knob A adjusts the maximum braking deection of the throttle and
brake servo, while EPA knob B sets its maximum throttle deection. The
STEERING DUAL RATE knob sets the deection of the front wheels.
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BODYWORK
ADHESIVES
THE COMPONENTS OF THE DISPLAY BODY OF YOUR RB7 RACER MUST BE FIXED
TOGETHER WITH SUITABLE ADHESIVES. HERE ARE A FEW TIPS ON THE GLUES TO
USE AND HOW TO AVOID CAUSING ANY DAMAGE TO THE DETAILED FINISH OF
YOUR CAR.
The display body of your RB7 is made of high impact
polystyrene (HIPS). The characteristics of this plastic include
good moulding and machining qualities and high impact
resistance, so even the smallest parts – from the radio
antenna to the pitot tube – can be accurately reproduced.
Most of the parts of the HIPS body are glued together.
The manufacturer’s production values have resulted in
highly detailed parts, so it would be a pity if the perfect
appearance of your model was disgured by imperfectly
glued joints. The following will help you to avoid this.
PROPERTIES OF ADHESIVES
A key dierence between dierent types of glue is the way
in which the adhesive connection is established. Many
adhesives form an intermediate layer, to which the pieces
are bonded once it hardens – the pieces are connected to
each other indirectly. Other types of adhesive, however,
connect the surfaces of the pieces directly, by modifying
them chemically so that they are virtually welded together.
With these adhesives, no visible adhesive layer remains and
the adhesive is transparent when it has dried.
Three types of product for gluing the display body of your model.
From left to right: model adhesive in a squeezable bottle with a
dispensing needle, plastic glue in a bottle with a brush and – as
a last resort – a little bottle of superglue. When using adhesives,
always be sure that your workplace has good ventilation, and
avoid inhaling the vapour.

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Conscientious modellers prefer adhesives of the latter
type. Virtually all the adhesives described as ‘plastic
adhesive’ or ‘model adhesive’ work in this way, welding the
pieces together. For your model, only adhesives that are
made specically for use on polystyrene are suitable.
Ordinary superglue will also work on HIPS, but it is less
satisfactory because the crystalline layer that it forms when
it dries will not be transparent, it will be opaque white.
While this is hardly noticeable when it is used for
connecting the body segments together, because the joins
are hidden, if you use it when attaching small parts, such as
the antenna, the edges of the bonding area will be visible.
Also, there is a possibility that superglue may prevent paint
or varnish from adhering properly.
Another disadvantage of superglue is that it attaches the
parts together indirectly rather than welding them
together, so the join is less stable and less impact-resistant
than one made with plastic adhesive. This is only an
advantage if you want to have the option of undoing the
adhesive bond again. As a rule, using plastic adhesive is the
better choice.
PRECISION APPLICATION
When using an adhesive, of whichever type, take care to
apply it only to the areas that you want to bond together.
If you spread it or spill it elsewhere, it will spoil the surface
nish of the component. Make sure that your chosen
adhesive is one that can be used sparingly and precisely.
Applying glue with a brush results in a particularly thin
adhesive lm – wipe the brush carefully on the edge of the
container to prevent drops forming. A exible bottle makes
it easier to squeeze the glue out, glue from a tube is best
applied with a toothpick, and adhesive dispenser syringes
or needles are ideal for precise gluing.
A dispensing needle makes it very easy to apply the adhesive as precisely as
you want it – especially when you need just a dot of it.
Plastic adhesive from a tube is usually quite thick. As a result, it dries
relatively slowly, so it’s easier to adjust the positions of the pieces being
glued. Use a wooden toothpick or thin piece of dowel to apply it to small
areas and individual points.
The brush makes it easy to apply a thin lm of adhesive. It is important not
to let the glue drip when applying it.

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IN THIS SESSION, YOU COMPLETE THE NOSE AND FRONT WING ASSEMBLY BY
ADDING THE FRONT WING STAYS TO THE LOWER NOSE AND MOUNTING IT ONTO
THE WING. THEN YOU ADD THE CAMERA, THE NOSE TIP AND THE UPPER NOSE.
NOSE AND
FRONT WING
1
5
6
2
4
3
Phillips screwdriver (size 0)
Tools & Materials
1Nose tip
2Nose camera
3Front wing stay holders
(left and right)
4Front wing stays (left and right)
52 flat-head screws 1.4 x 8mm
64 flat-head screws 2 x 8mm
Stage 85

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03
Insert and tighten the rst of the
four 2 x 8mm at-head screws
into the rear hole. 04
Next, position the right front
wing stay holder into the curved
recess on the stay. 05
With the stay holder in place,
insert and tighten the second 2 x
8mm at-head screw to secure the parts.
01
For this session, you will need your model assembly and the parts supplied with this
stage. You will also need the upper nose (supplied with Stage 84), the lower nose
(Stage 17) and the front wing (assembled in Stage 03). 02
Place the lower nose on its side
on your work surface, and line
up the right front wing stay as shown
above. The two holes on the stay’s
straight edge should line up with those
on the lower nose, as shown by the two
red arrows.

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08
Lower the front left stay holder into
the recess in the stay so that the
holes line up, as indicated by the red arrow. 09
Secure the parts by tightening
the last of the 2 x 8mm at-head
screws into the hole (arrowed). 10
Your lower nose assembly should
now look like this. Make sure that
the screws holding the front wing stays
are fully tightened and that the stays
cannot wobble from side to side.
06
Turn the lower nose and wing stay assembly over and line up the left front wing
stay with the side of the lower nose, as you did for the right stay in Step 02. 07
Tighten the third 2 x 8mm
at-head screw into the rear hole.

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13
Your assembly should now look
like this. Make sure that there are
no gaps at the join between the front
wing stays and the wing.
14
Holding the assembly together, carefully turn it over so the underside of the front
wing is facing upwards. Then insert the rst of the 1.4 x 8mm at-head screws into
the arrowed hole.
11
Place the front wing assembled in Stage 03 at on your work surface, and position
the lower nose assembly directly above its centre so that the two wing stays line up
with the raised sections indicated by the red arrows. 12
Fit the lower nose onto the front
wing assembly. The bottom
end of each wing stay has a small pin
towards the rear edge, which ts into a
corresponding hole in the front wing, as
indicated by the red arrow.

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18
Lay your front wing and lower nose assembly on your work surface, as shown, and
double-check that all the parts are attached correctly and securely, with no gaps. 19
Take the nose camera supplied
with this stage and slot it into
place on the front end of the lower nose,
as shown in the photo.
15
Tighten the screw with a
screwdriver. 16
Check that the pin on the other
stay is still in position, then insert
the other 1.4 x 8mm at-head screw into
the arrowed hole.
17
Tighten with a screwdriver, then
check both screws to make sure
that they are holding securely.

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23
Next, position the upper nose
supplied with Stage 84 onto the
lower nose, so that it sits neatly behind
the nose tip, as shown by the red arrow.
20
Slide the nose camera backwards
(red arrows) until it sits in the
position shown in the photo. 21
Carefully lower the nose tip onto
the nose camera. 22
The nose tip should sit neatly at
the front of the lower nose, with
the curved sides of the nose camera
tting snugly on each side.
24
This stage is done, and the nose and front wing assembly of your RB7 is complete,
and ready to be fastened onto the front of the chassis at a later stage. Store the
assembly away safely until next time.

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IN THIS ASSEMBLY SESSION, YOU WILL FIT THE RODS THAT LINK THE THROTTLE
AND BRAKE TO THEIR SERVO HORN.
THE THROTTLE
AND BRAKE RODS
1
243 Tools & Materials
1Brake rod
2Throttle linkage rod
3Throttle spring
42 ball ends 5.8mm (for Stage 87)
52 stoppers 2mm
6Throttle linkage base
7Ball end
82 set screws 3 x 3mm
9Washer 2mm
10 Flat-head screw 2 x 8 mm
11 Plastic brake collar
12 Silicone tubing 20mm
Clippers
Needle-nose pliers
Phillips screwdrivers (sizes 1 and 2)
Allen key 1.5mm
Craft knife
Ruler
Thread-locking compound
5
6
7
11
12
9
8
10
Stage 86

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04
Slot the straight end of the brake
rod into the indicated hole in
the servo horn. 05
Pull the rod through until the
angled section is resting against
the servo horn. Then use needle-nose
pliers to pull the bend through, so that
the section of the rod that is at a right
angle to the main part is inside the horn.
06
Your assembly should look like
this, with the brake rod hooked
neatly into the servo horn.
01
Before beginning, remove the
helmet air lter by pulling it
gently away from the engine‘s intake
port (red arrow).
02
Next, remove the servo horn by
undoing the screw at its centre. 03
To ensure the servo horn doesn‘t
get caught up during operation,
use cutters to remove its shortest arm.
Make sure that you cut a neat, straight
line to follow the existing edge of the
servo horn.

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10If you nd tightening the ball
end dicult, wrap the base of
the rod in cloth to prevent any damage,
then grip it with needle-nose pliers for a
rmer hold.
11
Your assembly should look like
this, with the threaded tip of the
rod fully concealed within the ball end. 12
The throttle linkage rod will be
attached to the free side of the
servo horn. Place the 2mm washer over
the circled hole.
07
Holding the servo horn and
brake rod assembly as shown,
feed the rod’s free end through the
eye of the brake lever attached to your
model’s rear dierential housing.
08
When your assembly looks like
the one in the photo, line up the
servo horn and re-insert and tighten the
screw removed in Step 02.
09
Next, tighten the ball end onto
the threaded tip of the throttle
linkage rod.