Delta 46-700 User manual

DATED 8-1-91 PART NO. 434-08-651-0001
©Delta International Machinery Corp. 1991
I

TABLE OF CONTENTS
SAFETY RULES.3
ADDITIONAL SAFETY RULES FOR WOOD LATHES... ..4
UNPACKING AND CLEANING.....5
ASSEMBLING AND SETTING UP LATHE.5
CONNECTING LATHE TO POWER SOURCE
Power Connections. 8
Grounding Instructions ..........8
FASTENING LATHE TO SUPPORTING SURFACE.. ..9
OPERATING CONTROLS AND ADJUSTMENTS
Starting And Stopping Lathe..... 9
Locking Switch in The “OFF” Position ... 9
Spindle Speeds. 1 0
Repositioning Headstock For Outboard turning.10
Tool Rest........11
Tailstock. 1 1
Headstock Spur Center....... 12
Tailstock Cup Center........ 12
OPERATION
Lathe Tools. 1 3
How To Turn Spindles ....13
Centering The Work..........14
Mounting The Work.... 14
Tool Rest Position.. 15
Roughing A Cylinder.........15
Position of Hands. 1 6
Smoothing A Cylinder. 1 6
Using The Parting Tool.........16
Squaring An End... 1 7
Cutting A Shoulder. 1 7
Cutting Small Beads.. 18
Vee Grooves......... 18
Long Cuts...........19
Cove Cuts........ 19
Square Sections .. 2 0
Faceplate Turning. 2 1
Mounting Work To Faceplate....... 21
Inboard Faceplate Turning. 21
Outboard Faceplate Turning........22
Hollow Tailstock... 2 3
MAINTENANCE
Replacing Variable Speed Drive Belt ....24
AUTHORIZED SERVICE STATIONS. 2 6
PARTS, SERVICE OR WARRANTY ASSISTANCE .... .28
WARRANTY ..........28
2

SAFETY RULES
As with all machinery there are certain hazards involved with operation and use of the machine. Using the machine
with respect and caution will considerably lessen the possibility of personal injury. However, if normal safety precautions
are overlooked or ignored, personal injury to the operator may result.
This machine was designed for certain applications only. Delta Machinery strongly recommends that this machine NOT
be modified and/or used for any application other than for which it was designed. If you have any questions relative
to its application DO NOT use the machine until you have written Delta Machinery and we have advised you.
DELTA INTERNATIONAL MACHINERY CORP.
MANAGER OF TECHNICAL SERVICES
246 ALPHA DRIVE
PITTSBURGH, PENNSYLVANIA 15238
{IN CANADA: 644 IMPERIAL ROAD, GUELPH, ONTARIO N1H 6M7)
WARNING: FAILURE TO FOLLOW THESE RULES
MAY RESULT IN SERIOUS PERSONAL INJURY
1. FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY, READ INSTRUCTION
MANUAL BEFORE OPERATING THE TOOL. Learn the
tool’s application and limitations as well as the specific
hazards peculiar to it.
2. KEEP GUARDS IN PLACE and in working order.
3. ALWAYS WEAR EYE PROTECTION.
4. GROUND ALL TOOLS. If tool is equipped with three-
prong plug, it should be plugged into a three-hole elec¬
trical receptacle. If an adapter is used to accommodate
a two-prong receptacle, the adapter lug must be attach¬
ed to a known ground. Never remove the third prong.
5. REMOVE ADJUSTING KEYS AND WRENCHES.
Form habit of checking to see that keys and adjusting
wrenches are removed from tool before turning it “on.”
6. KEEP WORK AREA CLEAN. Cluttered areas and
benches invite accidents.
7. DON’T USE IN DANGEROUS ENVIRONMENT. Don’t
use power tools in damp or wet locations, or expose them
to rain, Keep work area well-lighted.
8. KEEP CHILDREN AND VISITORS AWAY. All children
and visitors should be kept a safe distance from work area.
9. MAKE WORKSHOP CHILDPROOF - with padlocks,
master switches, or by removing starter keys.
10. DON’T FORCE TOOL. It will do the job better and
be safer at the rate for which it was designed.
11. USE RIGHT TOOL. Don’t force tool or attachment
to do a job for which it was not designed.
12. WEAR PROPER APPAREL. No loose clothing,
gloves, neckties, rings, bracelets, or other jewelry to get
caught in moving parts. Nonslip foot wear is recommend¬
ed. Wear protective hair covering to contain long hair.
13. ALWAYS USE SAFETY GLASSES. Wear safety
glasses (must comply with ANSI Z87.1). Everyday eye¬
glasses only have impact resistant lenses; they are not
safety glasses. Also use face or dust mask if cutting opera¬
tion is dusty.
14. SECURE WORK. Use clamps or a vise to hold work
when practical. It’s safer than using your hand and frees
both hands to operate tool.
15. DON’T OVERREACH. Keep proper footing and
balance at all times,
16. MAINTAIN TOOLS IN TOP CONDITION. Keep tools
sharp and clean for best and safest performance. Follow
instructions for lubricating and changing accessories.
17. DISCONNECT TOOLS before servicing and when
changing accessories such as blades, bits, cutters,
etc.
18. USE RECOMMENDED ACCESSORIES. The use of
improper accessories may cause hazards.
19. AVOID ACCIDENTAL STARTING. Make sure switch
is in “OFF” position before plugging in power cord.
20. NEVER STAND ON TOOL. Serious injury could
occur if the tool is tipped or if the cutting tool is accident¬
ally contacted.
21. CHECK DAMAGED PARTS. Before further use of the
tool, a guard or other part that is damaged should be
carefully checked to ensure that it will operate properly
and perform its intended function - check for alignment
of moving parts, binding of moving parts, breakage of
parts, mounting, and any other conditions that may affect
its operation. A guard or other part that is damaged should
be properly repaired or replaced.
22. DIRECTION OF FEED. Feed work into a blade or
cutter against the direction of rotation of the blade or cutter
only.
23. NEVER LEAVE TOOL RUNNING UNATTENDED.
TURN POWER OFF. Don’t leave tool until it comes to a
complete stop.
24. DRUGS, ALCOHOL, MEDICATION. Do not operate
tool while under the influence of drug, alcohol or any
medication.
25. MAKE SURE TOOL IS DISCONNECTED FROM
POWER SUPPLY while motor is being mounted, con¬
nected or reconnected.
26. WARNING: The dust generated by certain woods and
wood products can be injurious to your health, Always
operate machinery in well ventilated areas and provide
for proper dust removal. Use wood dust collection systems
whenever possible.
3

ADDITIONAL SAFETY RULES
FOR WOOD LATHES
1. WARNING: DO NOT operate your lathe until it is
completely assembled and installed according to the
instructions.
2. IF YOU ARE NOT thoroughly familiar with the opera¬
tion of wood lathes, obtain advice from your supervisor,
instructor or other qualified person.
3. MAKE SURE wiring codes and recommended elec¬
trical connections are followed and that the machine is
properly grounded.
4. NEVER turn the lathe “ON” before clearing the lathe
bed of all objects (tools, scraps of wood, etc.).
5. EXAMINE set-up carefully before turning on the
power.
6. MAKE SURE tool rest height is adjusted properly.
7. MAKE SURE tool rest is adjusted as close to the
workpiece as possible.
8. ROTATE workpiece by hand to check clearance
before engaging power.
9. NEVER adjust the tool rest while workpiece is turning.
10. REMOVE the tool rest before sanding or polishing.
11. WHEN TURNING between centers MAKE SURE the
tailstock center is snug against the workpiece and locked.
The tailstock center should be lubricated if it is not a ball
bearing center.
12. NEVER drive workpiece into drive center when drive
center is in headstock. Set drive center into workpiece with
a soft mallet prior to installing it into the headstock.
13. NEVER loosen tailstock spindle or tailstock while
workpiece is turning.
14. WHEN faceplate turning, MAKE SURE workpiece
is securely fastened to the faceplate and that appropriate
size faceplate is used to properly support workpiece.
15. WHEN faceplate turning, MAKE SURE the screw
fasteners do not interfere with the turning tool at the
finished dimension of the workpiece.
16. ROUGH CUT workpiece as close as possible to
finished shape before installing on faceplate.
17. TIGHTEN all clamp handles before operating.
18. EXAMINE workpiece for flaws and test glue joints
before placing workpiece in lathe.
19. WHEN roughing off, DO NOT jam tool into work-
piece or take too big a cut.
20. USE lowest speed when starting a new workpiece.
21. ALWAYS operate the lathe at the recommended
speeds. Consult owners manual for suggested speeds.
22. MAKE all adjustments with the power “OFF.”
Change speed only when lathe is running.
23. DISCONNECT lathe from power source when mak¬
ing repairs.
24. DISCONNECT lathe from power source and clean
the machine before leaving it.
25. MAKE SURE the work area is cleaned before leaving
the machine.
26. SHOULD any part of your lathe be missing, dam¬
aged or fail in any way, or any electrical component fail
to perform properly, shut off switch and remove plug from
the power supply outlet. Replace missing, damaged or
failed parts before resuming operation.
27. CAUTION: To reduce the risk of injury, ALWAYS
wear safety glasses and face and head protection when
operating wood lathe.
28. ADDITIONAL INFORMATION regarding the safe
and proper operation of this product is available from the
National Safety Council, 444 N. Michigan Avenue,
Chicago, IL 60611 in the Accident Prevention Manual for
Industrial Operations and also in the Safety Data Sheets
provided by the NSC. Please also refer to the American
National Standards institute ANSI 01.1 Safety Require¬
ments for Woodworking Machines and the U.S. Depart¬
ment of Labor OSHA 1910.213 Regulations.
4

UNPACKING AND CLEANING
Your new Wood Lathe is shipped complete in one carton. Carefully unpack the wood lathe and
all loose items from the carton. Remove the protective coating from the lathe bed and all unpainted
parts. This coating may be removed with a soft cloth moistened with kerosene (do not use acetone,
gasoline, or lacquer thinner for this purpose). After cleaning cover the lathe bed with a good quality
paste wax.
WARNING: FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY, DO NOT CONNECT THE LATHE TO THE POWER
SOURCE UNTIL THE MACHINE IS COMPLETELY ASSEMBLED AND YOU HAVE READ AND
UNDERSTAND THE ENTIRE OWNERS MANUAL.
ASSEMBLING AND SETTING UP LATHE
E F H
Fig. 2
1. Fig. 2, illustrates the lathe and all loose items after they are removed from the carton.
The headstock (A), tool rest (B) and tailstock (C) are mounted to the lathe bed (D). Loose
items shipped with your lathe are the two spindle wrenches (E), headstock positioning wrench
(F), headstock spur center (G), tailstock cup center (H) and variable speed handle, spring
and screw (J).
2. Assemble the handle, spring and screw (J) to the end
of the variable speed control shaft, as shown in Fig. 3.
Fig. 3
5

3. L oosen tailstock locking lever (K) Fig. 4, and remove
tailstock (C) from left end of lathe bed.
4. U sing the headstock positioning wrench (F) Fig. 5,
loosen screw (L) located directly underneath headstock
(A) just enough to allow the headstock (A) to slide along
the lathe bed. NOTE: Do not overly loosen screw (L).
5. S lide headstock (A) Fig. 6, to the left end of lathe bed
(D), as shown, and tighten headstock locking screw that
was loosened in STEP 4.
Fig. 4
6. U sing the two spindle wrenches (E) Fig. 7, remove
faceplate (M) from headstock spindle.
6
Fig. 7

7. L ift up tool rest base locking lever (N) Fig. 8, and
loosen tool rest locking lever (0).
8. R eposition too! rest base (P) and tool rest (Q) on lathe
bed as shown in Fig. 9, and tighten locking levers (N) and
(O).
9. L oosen tailstock locking lever (K) Fig. 10, and slide
tailstock (C) onto right end of lathe bed as shown. NOTE:
Make sure clamp (R) is in position underneath lathe bed.
10. F ig. 11, illustrates tailstock (C) mounted on right end
of lathe bed. Tighten locking lever (K).

A separate electrical circuit should be used for your tools. This circuit should not be less than
#12 wire and should be protected with a 20 Amp time lag fuse. If an extension cord is used, use
only 3-wire extension cords which have 3-prong grounding type plugs and 3-pole receptacles which
accept the tools plug. For distances up to 100 feet use #12 wire. For distances up to 150 feet
use #10 wire. Have a certified electrician replace or repair damaged or worn cord immediately.
Before connecting the motor to the power line, make sure the switch is in the “OFF” position
and be sure that the electric current is of the same characteristics as stamped on motor nameplate.
All line connections should make good contact. Running on low voltage will injure the motor.
WARNING: THIS TOOL MUST BE GROUNDED WHILE IN USE
TO PROTECT THE OPERATOR FROM ELECTRIC SHOCK.
In the event of a malfunction or breakdown, grounding
provides a path of least resistance for electric current to
reduce the risk of electric shock. This tool is equipped with
an electric cord having an equipment-grounding conductor
and a grounding plug, The plug must be plugged into a
matching outlet that is properly installed and grounded
in accordance with all local codes and ordinances.
Do not modify the plug provided - if it will not fit the outlet,
have the proper outlet installed by a qualified electrician.
Improper connection of the equipment-grounding conduc¬
tor can result in risk of electric shock. The conductor with
insulation having an outer surface that is green with or
without yellow stripes is the equipment-grounding con¬
ductor. If repair or replacement of the electric cord or plug
is necessary, do not connect the equipment grounding
conductor to a live terminal.
Check with a qualified electrician or service personnel if
the grounding instructions are not completely understood,
or if in doubt as to whether the tool is properly grounded.
Use only 3-wire extension cords that have 3-prong ground¬
ing type plugs and 3-hole receptacles that accept the tool’s
plug, as shown in Fig. 12,
Repair or replace damaged or worn cord immediately.
This tool is intended for use on a circuit that has an outlet
and a plug that looks like the one shown in Fig. 12. A
temporary adapter, which looks like the adapter illustrated
in Fig. 13, may be used to connect this plug to a 2-pole
receptacle, as shown in Fig. 13, if a properly grounded
outlet is not available. The temporary adapter should be
used only until a properly grounded outlet can be installed
by a qualified electrician. THIS ADAPTER IS NOT
APPLICABLE IN CANADA. The green-colored rigid ear,
lug, and the like, extending from the adapter must be
connected to a permanent ground, such as a properly
grounded outlet box, as shown in Fig. 13.
CAUTION: IN ALL CASES, MAKE CERTAIN THE RE¬
CEPTACLE IN QUESTION IS PROPERLY GROUNDED.
IF YOU ARE NOT SURE HAVE A CERTIFIED ELEC¬
TRICIAN CHECK THE RECEPTACLE.
8

FASTENING LATHE TO SUPPORTING SURFAC
Fig. 14
This machine must be fastened to a supporting surface. Four holes, two of which are
shown at (A) Fig. 14, are provided in the lathe bed for this purpose. IMPORTANT: If
the lathe is to be mounted to the accessory 46-705 stand, the stand must be fastened
to a supporting surface if it has any tendency to tip over, slide or “walk” during operation.
OPERATING CONTROLS AND ADJUSTMENTS
STARTING AND
STOPPING LATHE
The switch (A) Fig. 15, is located on the end of the motor.
To turn the lathe “ON” move the switch to the up posi¬
tion. To turn the lathe “OFF” move the switch to the down
position.
LOCKING SWITCH IN
THE “OFF” POSITION
IMPORTANT: We suggest that when the lathe is not in
use the switch be locked in the “OFF” position using a
padlock (B) Fig, 16, through the holes in the switch
bracket, as shown.
Fig. 15
9
Fig. 16

SPINDLE SPEEDS
Your 12" Wood Lathe is provided with variable rate
spindle speeds from 500 to 2000 RPM. IMPORTANT:
CHANGE SPEEDS ONLY WHEN LATHE IS RUNNING.
To change speeds, rotate speed control lever (A) Fig. 17.
Turning the lever (A) clockwise increases the speed and
turning it counterclockwise decreases the speed. NOTE:
Lever (A) is spring-loaded and can be repositioned by
pulling out on the lever and repositioning it on the nut
located underneath the lever.
Fig. 17
Refer to Fig. 18, for the recommended spindle speeds when wood-turning on your machine.
RECOMMENDED SPINDLE SPEEDS
DIAMETER
OF WORK
ROUGHING
OFF
GENERAL
CUTTING
FINISHING
Under 2" Dia.
2" to 4" Dia.
4" to 6" Dia.
6" to 8" Dia.
8" to 12" Dia.
900 to 1300 RPM
600 to 1000 RPM
600 to 800 RPM
500 to 600 RPM
500 RPM
1200 to 2000 RPM
1000 to 2000 RPM
1000 to 1800 RPM
800 to 1200 RPM
600 to 800 RPM
1500 to 2000 RPM
1500 to 2000 RPM
1500 to 2000 RPM
1200 to 1800 RPM
900 to 1200 RPM
Fig. 18
REPOSITIONING HEADSTOCK FOR OUTBOARD TURNING
1. To reposition headstock (A) Fig. 19, for outboard
faceplate turning, loosen locking screw located directly
underneath headstock with wrench (B) supplied, just
enough to allow you to slide headstock (A) to the center
of the lathe bed.
2. With headstock (A) Fig. 19, in position at the center
of the lathe bed, loosen the headstock locking screw
again, just enough to allow you to rotate headstock (A)
90 degrees to the right until spindle (C) is facing out. Then
tighten screw underneath headstock (A) with wrench (B).
Fig. 19
10

TOOL REST
The tool rest (A) and tool rest base (B) is shown in Fig. 20.
To position the tool rest on the lathe bed, lift up clamp
handle (C), move the tool rest base to the desired posi¬
tion and lock in place by pushing down on handle (C). To
adjust the tool rest (A) for the correct height, loosen locking
lever (D), move tool rest (A) up or down and tighten locking
lever (D). NOTE: Locking lever (D) can be repositioned
by removing nut (E) and lever (D). Reposition lever (D) on
the nut located underneath the lever (D) and replace nut
(E). Clamping action of clamp handle (C) Fig. 21, can be
adjusted by removing the tool rest base from the lathe bed
and tightening or loosening nut (F).
Fig. 21
TAILSTOCK
The tailstock (A) Fig. 22, can be moved lengthwise along
the lathe bed by loosening locking lever (B), sliding tail-
stock (A) to the desired position on the bed, and tighten¬
ing lever (B).
The tailstock spindle (C) Fig. 22, moves in or out of the
tailstock body by loosening locking lever (D) and turning
handwheel (E). Total movement of the tailstock spindle
(C) is two inches. The tailstock spindle is hollow the com¬
plete length of the tailstock enabling you to bore holes
through turnings as shown later in this manual. NOTE:
Locking lever (B) is spring-loaded and can be repositioned
by pulling out on the handle and repositioning it on the
nut located underneath the lever. Locking lever (D) Fig. 23,
can be repositioned by removing nut (F) and lever (D).
Reposition lever (D) on the nut located underneath
lever (D) and replace nut (F).
Fig. 23
11

HEADSTOCK SPUR CENTER
The spur center (A) Fig. 24, supplied with your lathe, is
equipped with a No. 2 Morse Taper shank and is inserted
into the headstock spindlfe (B) as shown. To remove the
tapered shank spur center (A) from the headstock spindle,
use a dowel rod or a piece of soft metal rod through the
hole (C) Fig. 25, in the opposite end of the spindle.
Available as an accessory for your lathe is the Cat. No.
46-905 Knockout Bar which is ideal for this purpose. It is
equipped with a brass plug on one end and a comfortable
knob on the other. IMPORTANT: NEVER DRIVE THE
WORKPIECE INTO THE SPUR CENTER WHEN IT IS
MOUNTED IN THE HEADSTOCK. Instructions on setting
the spur center into the workpiece are found in the
OPERATION section of this manual.
TAILSTOCK CUP CENTER
The tailstock cup center (A) Fig, 26, supplied with your
lathe, is equipped with a No. 2 Morse Taper shank and
is inserted into the tailstock spindle (B), as shown. To
remove the tapered shank cup center (A) from the tailstock
spindle, simply rotate handwheel (C) to move spindle (B)
back into the tailstock body. This will push the cup center
(A) out of the spindle (B).
I
B
Fig. 26
Fig. 25
12

The following directions will give the inexperienced operator a start on the common lathe operations. Use scrap materia!
for practice to get the feel of the machine before attempting regular work.
The standard set of tools used in wood turning comprises
five different shapes as shown in Fig. 27. Most important
of these is the gouge, a roundnose, hollow chisel which
is used for roughing cuts, cove cutting and other opera¬
tions. Next in importance is the skew chisel, a double¬
ground, flat chisel, with the end ground to an angle
instead of being square across. This tool is used for
smoothing cylinders, for cutting shoulders, beads, vee-
grooves, etc. The spear or diamond-point chisel and the
round-nose chisel are scraping tools which are used
where their shape fits the contour of the work. The parting
tool is a double-ground chisel, and is used for cutting-off
and for making straight incisions or sizing cuts to any
required diameter.
Any turning where the workpiece is placed between the
headstock and tailstock centers, as shown in Fig. 28, is
called spindle turning. This is the principle type of wood
turning, as typified by chair and table legs, lamp stems,
etc. The turning of spindles can be done with either a
scraping or cutting technique, the cutting technique by
virtue of faster wood removal and a cleaner surface being
almost a must for good work. Fig. 29, illustrates a spindle
turning operation being performed.
Fig. 28
Fig. 29

Wood stock for any spindle turning should be approxi¬
mately square, and the ends should be square with the
sides. Two common methods of determining the center
are shown in Fig. 30 and 31. In Fig. 30 a distance a little
more or a little less than one-half the width of the stock
is set off from each of the four sides, The small square
thus set off in the center can then be used in marking the
true center. The diagonal method, Fig. 31, consists of
drawing lines from corner to corner, the intersection
marking the center of the work.
After marking each end, the true center should be defi¬
nitely marked with a punch awl or dividers, as shown in
Fig, 32. If the stock is hardwood, the centers should be
drilled to a depth of about 1/8”, as shown in Fig. 33. The
spur or live center is then placed against one end of the
work and seated by striking with a mallet, as shown in Fig.
34, In hardwood, it is advisable to make a starting seat
for the spur center, this being done by sawing on the
diagonal lines, as shown in Fig. 35, and drilling a small
hole at the intersection. After driving the center, it is best
to hold center and work together and fit immediately to
headstock spindle. If you are not using a ball bearing
center, the end of work at tailstock center should be oiled,
placing the lubricant on the wood either before or after
it is put in the lathe, see Fig, 36. Many turners use bees¬
wax, tallow, or a wax-and-oil mixture as a lubricant, The
ideal method is to use a ball bearing center, which elimi¬
nates lubricating entirely. If the work is to be removed from
the lathe before completion, an index mark should be
made as a guide for recentering, as shown in Fig. 37. A
permanent indexer can be made by grinding off one corner
of one of the spurs.
Fig. 32
Fig. 33
Fig. 36 Fig. 37
MOUNTING THE WORK
Mounting the work is done by moving the tailstock up to
a position about 1 or IV 2 ” from the end of the stock, and
locking it in this position. Advance the tailstock center by
turning the feed handle until the center makes contact with
the work. Continue to advance the center while slowly
rotating the work by hand. After it becomes difficult to turn
the work, slack off on the feed about one-quarter turn and
lock the tailstock spindle.
14

TOOL REST POSITION
The tool rest is now mounted, in place, about 1/8” away
from the work and 1/8” above the work centerline, as
shown in Fig. 38. This position may be varied to suit the
work and the operator. A guide mark to show the most
suitable working position can be placed on the tool rest
shank as an aid to quick and accurate re-setting. Once
some experience has been obtained, the setting of the
tool rest will become almost second-nature.
ROUGHING A CYLINDER
The large gouge is used in the first turning operation of
roughing-off the sharp corners of the work. Run the lathe
at low speed and hold the gouge in the manner shown
in Fig. 39. The cut starts about 2 inches from the tailstock
end, and continues from this point towards and off the
tailstock end. A second bite is then taken about 2 or 3”
to the left of the first cut, advancing again towards the
tailstock to merge with the cut previously made. The pro¬
cedure continues until a point about 2” from the live center
is reached where the gouge is rolled in the opposite direc¬
tion to carry the final cut off the live center end of the work.
The roughing cut should not be carried out with one con¬
tinuous movement as this tends to tear long slivers from
the corners of the work; neither should the cut be started
directly at the end of the stock for the same reason. The
cut can be safely carried from the center of the stock
towards and off either end once the first roughing cut has
been made.
The position of the gouge in relation to the work involves
two or three important angles. First of all, the tool may
be advanced along the work either from right to left or from
left to right. From left to right or from headstock towards
tailstock is preferable, since this throws the chips clear
of the operator. The gouge is rolled over slightly in the
same direction it is advancing, as shown in Fig. 40. The
tool is held well up on the work, with the bevel or grind
tangent to the revolving surface, as shown in Fig. 41.
In this position it will make a clean, shearing cut. When
pushed straight into the work, like Fig. 42, the gouge has
a scraping action, which is normally poor practice in
spindle turning. The roughing cut is continued until the
work approaches 1/8” of the required diameter, stepping
up to second or third speed once a barely cylindrical form
has been obtained.
Fig. 39
15

In all tool handling, the handle hand takes a natural posi¬
tion, being nearer or further from the end of chisel depend¬
ing on the amount of leverage required. The position of
the tool rest hand is more a matter of individual liking
rather than any set or “proper” position. However, a palm-
up grip, as illustrated with the gouge, is generally con¬
sidered the best practice. In this position, the first finger
acts as a guide, as shown in Fig. 43, sliding along the too!
rest as the cut is made. The alternate position is a palm-
down grip, which is shown in Fig. 44. In this position, the
heel of the hand or the little finger serves as a guide. The
palm-down position is solid and positive-excellent for
roughing or heavy cutting. Most beginners start with the
palm-down grip, switching later to the palm-up position
for better manipulation of the chisel.
This operation is done with the large skew chisel. It
demands a little practice, but should be mastered
thoroughly because it is one of the most important cuts
in turning. Fig. 43 and 44 show how the chisel is held,
using either grip as desired. The cutting point is near the
center of chisel and high on the work, as shown in Fig. 45.
The chisel must be supported by the tool rest at all times
- in striving for a certain position in relation to the work,
the beginner often overlooks this all-important point.
Beginners often use the method shown in Fig. 45 to locate
the proper tool position. To do this, you place the skew
well over the work and riding-flat against it.
Pulling back slowly on the tool will eventually put it into
position where it will bite into the wood. Raising the handle
increases the depth of cut; lowering the handle makes the
cut less. As with the gouge, the skew can be advanced
in either direction. The part of the skew which does the
actual cutting is the center portion and toward the heel.
It is worthwhile to stop a test cut in progress and note just
how the skew cuts. You will note that the back portion of
the grind or bevel supports the tool, and the handle hand
controls the depth of cut by rocking the chisel on this pivot
point. For this reason it is important that the skew bevel
be kept perfectly flat, not a double bevel nor rounded.
The parting tool is perhaps the easiest turning chisel to
handle. It is a scraping tool, and is simply pushed into the
work, as shown in Figs. 46, 47 and 48. A somewhat bet¬
ter cutting action is obtained if the handle is held low,
raising gradually as the work diameter decreases, as
shown in Fig. 46. The tool is frequently used with one
hand, the other hand holding calipers in the groove being
cut. When parting tool cuts are deep, a clearance cut
should be made alongside the first cut, as shown in
Fig. 47, to prevent burning the tool point.
Fig. 43
Fig. 44
Fig. 48
16

SQUARING AN END
This operation can be done with parting tool. However,
the parting tool is a rough cutter, so that ultimately the
skew must be used in cleaning the cut. The whole opera¬
tion can be done with the skew, and this technique is
illustrated by the drawings in Figs. 49, 50 and 51. The first
movement is a nicking cut with the toe of the skew, as
shown in Fig. 49. This cut cannot be made very deep
without danger of burning the chisel, so a clearance cut
is made by inclining the skew away from the first cut and
again pushing the tool into the work. This procedure of
side cut and clearance cut is continued as often as
needed. The important point to note is that while the skew
can be pushed into the wood in any direction, the cutting
edge itself must be inclined a little away from this plane,
see Fig. 51. Note that if the full cutting edge of skew bears
against the cut surface, the tool will have a tendency to
run. Now, observe the proper way to make the cut, as
shown at left end of Fig. 51. The chisel is pushed straight
into the work, but the cutting edge is inclined away from
the cut surface - only the extreme toe cuts. This is the most
important principle in skew handling, and you will run into
it repeatedly in making shoulders, beads and vee cuts.
CUTTING A SHOULDER
The parting tool is first used to reduce the wood to within
1/16” of the required shoulder and diameter, as shown
in Fig. 52. The waste stock is then cleaned out with the
gouge, Fig. 53. Actual cutting of the shoulder is done with
the skew, as shown in Fig. 54, and is a duplication of
squaring end. The horizontal cut is also made with the
skew, but in a little different manner from that used in
doing plain cylinder work. If the shoulder is long, the
ordinary skew position can be used for the outer portion
of the cut, but at the angle between the horizontal and
vertical cuts, the heel of the chisel moves into a position
tangent between the skew and the cylinder, as shown in
Fig. 55. In this position, the handle of the chisel is raised
slightly to allow it to cut as the tool moves along the rest.
A very light cut should be taken in order to produce
smooth work. The heel of the skew can be used for making
the entire cut, if desired, but the cut, whether in this posi¬
tion or any other position, should not be picked up directly
at the end of the stock. It is quite evident that any hori¬
zontal cut started directly from the end of the work will
have a tendency to bite into the wood, often ruining the
entire piece. Always run off the end and not into it. Where
a very short shoulder makes this impossible, it is best to
use the skew flat in a scraping position. If the cutting
technique is used, engage only with the heel of skew in
a very light cut.
Fig. 49 Fig. 50
Fig. 51
Fig. 53
Fig. 54
17
Fig. 55

CUTTING SMALL BEADS
Beads can be scraped or cut. The easy method of scrap¬
ing is done with the spear chisel, and works to best
advantage on beads separated by parting tool cuts, as
shown in Fig. 56. Scraping is slower and less productive
of clean work than cutting, but it has the advantage of
perfect safety - you won’t spoil the work with long gash
runs.
Cutting beads quickly and accurately with the small skew
is one of the most difficult lathe operations. Various work¬
ing methods can be used, the usual system being as
shown in Figs. 57, 58 and 59. The first cut is a vertical
incision at the point where the two curved surfaces will
eventually come together. This cut can be made with
either heel or toe of skew, Fig. 60 showing the toe being
used. Now, place the skew at right angles to the work and
well up on the cylinder, as shown in Fig. 57. The chisel
is flat on its side at the start, and is evenly rotated through
the successive stages of the cut, as shown in Figs. 57,
58 and 59. At the same time, the chisel is pulled slightly
backwards to maintain the cutting point. The entire cut
is made with the heel of chisel. The opposite side of the
bead is cut in the same manner, one cut serving to pro¬
duce the full shape in each instance. Beads cut in this
manner are beautifully smooth and polished, and the
technique is well worth mastering.
1 . 1
a
Bn
Fig. 59
VEE GROOVES
Cutting the vee groove demands much the same techni¬
que as the bead, except the skew is hinged straight into
the work without rotation, as shown in Fig. 61. Only one-
haif of the vee is made at a time, and one, two or more
cuts may be needed on each side to obtain the desired
shape. As in all cutting with the skew, the bevel next to
the cut must be used as a fulcrum, without at the same
time allowing the full edge of the chisel to catch and cause
a run. Vee grooves can also be made with the toe of the
skew, in the manner already described for squaring an
end.
Fig. 61
18

LONG CUTS
Long cuts are usually either convex or straight-tapered
surfaces. With a convex surface, the method used in
making the finishing cut is shown in Fig. 62 and 63. The
gouge is turned on the tool rest so that it will be inclined
considerably in the direction in which it is about to move.
The grind is tangent to the work, and the center point of
the cutting edge is the contact point with the wood. As
the cut progresses towards and around the end of the
curve, the handle is gradually raised and swung to the
right, as shown in Fig. 63, in order to maintain the tan-
gency between the grind and the surface being cut, as
shown in Fig. 64.
Figs. 65 and 66 show the cutting of a long taper. The skew
is used, and the operation differs from smoothing a
cylinder only as regards the start of the cut. The starting
cut should be made with the heel, as shown in Fig. 66,
to prevent the tool from digging into the work. As the tool
runs down the work, the chisel can be pulled back to allow
the center point of the cutting edge to cut. However, the
full taper can be made with the heel. There will be a
tendency to cut too deeply at the center of the taper which
should be guarded against. The direction of cutting is
always downhill.
Fig. 64
Fig. 65
COVE CUTS
Second to forming a perfect bead, the cove or concave cut is the most difficult to master. This
cut is made with the gouge, the size of the tool depending upon the size of the cut. The size of
the intended cove is first laid out, and the gouge is pushed directly into the work to remove the
surplus stock, as pictured in Fig. 67. The cove cut can now be made.
19

The gouge is placed on edge on the tool rest in such a
position that the grind of the chisel forms an approximate
right angle with the work, as shown in Figs. 68 and 69.
The chisel contacts the work at the center of the cutting
edge, the tool being held so that the centerline of the
gouge is pointing directly towards the center of the revolv¬
ing stock, as shown in Fig. 70. This starting position is
important; otherwise the gouge will have a tendency to
run along the surface of the work.
From the starting position, the gouge is pushed into the
revolving stock, and the tool is rolled on the rest. A triple
action takes place here: First, the chisel is rolled to follow
the shape of the cut; second, the handle is dropped
slightly so that the portion already cut will force the lip of
the chisel sidewise; third, the chisel is pushed forward so
that at the end of the cut, Fig. 71, it will be well up on the
work and tangent with the cut surface. Only one-half of
the cut is made at one time, then the chisel is reversed
to cut the other half. The occasional turner is advised to
make cove cuts with a scraping technique, using either
the small gouge or round nose chisel.
SQUARE SECTIONS
When the turning has a square section, the stock should
be jointed before turning. Good centering is essential
since any error will show at the shoulder where the round
meets the square. Turning of the shoulder from square
to round can be done in various ways, one method being
pictured in Figs. 72, 73, 74 and 75. If the parting tool is
sharp, the nicking cut with skew, Fig. 72, can be omitted.
The final trimming operation Fig. 75, can be done with
either the skew or spear chisels. This is a scraping opera¬
tion. While the shoulder can be cut with the same techni¬
que used for cutting a bead, the simpler scraping method
pictured does clean work and is easier to do.
Fig. 70
Fig. 74
20
Fig. 75