Dewils Framed Cabinetry User manual

The DeWils Guide to Designer Series
Framed Cabinetry Installation
www.dewils.com

DeWils Industries, Inc.- July, 2008
The first step in the cabinetry installation process is to prepare both yourself and the
work areas for the new cabinets. Begin by familiarizing yourself with the kitchen
drawings. Make sure you know where each cabinet will be placed in your new
kitchen and check them against your list to ensure you have each item. If you are
remodeling your kitchen, prepare the work space by removing all existing
appliances, cabinets, sinks, and anything else which may be attached to the walls or
floor. Be sure to turn off the water and electricity before removing the sinks and
appliances. If you are planning on replacing the flooring, electrical or plumbing, or
repairing and painting the walls, this work will be much easier if it is done prior to
the cabinet installation. It is also important to protect the new floor with tarps or
cardboard during installation of the cabinetry.
One of the most important steps in cabinetry installation is to begin with a
level foundation for the cabinets. Since not all floors and walls were
created with smooth, plumb surfaces, it is critical to locate the high spots.
Once found, you may either level the spots to the low areas or shim the
cabinets to make the installation plumb and square. To determine
locations of high spots, place a carpenter’s level on top of a 4’to 6’long
straight edge. Beginning in a corner, move the straight edge and level
around the room on the floor along the wall, marking where the bubble in
the level indicates high areas. Repeat the procedure 21”out from the walls
until you have found the highest spot.
For wall cabinetry, it is also imperative to ensure a smooth base. Utilizing the same
method as you used for finding the high spot on the floor, check for unevenness in
the walls and soffits. The low spots should be shimmed even with the high point to
obtain a smooth, even wall.
If the walls and floors are straight and level to begin with, it will eliminate
misalignment of doors and drawers due to racking (twisting) the cabinets.
This is a critical step!
From the high spot, measure up the wall 34 ½” or 35 ¼” if installing base
height cabinets; 30 ¼” if installing vanity height cabinets. With the chalk line,
strike a level line, called the “Base Level Line”, around the room on the walls
using the highest spot as the starting point. This is the point to which the
tops of the base cabinets should be level. Because DeWils customizes cabinet
heights, it is best to unwrap one of the cabinets and measure from the
bottom of the toe kick to the top of the cabinet to determine how far up
from the high spot you should strike the Base Level line.
Measure 84”, 90”, 96”, or the height of the tallest cabinet according to the
finished height of the cabinetry from the original high spot. Subtract the
height of the wall cabinets and make a mark on the wall. Move up the wall 1”
from this mark and strike a line on the walls parallel to the Base Level line.
This is called the Wall Level line and it is the line along which the bottoms of
the wall cabinets should be level. Please note that the recommended
clearance between the top of the base cabinets and the bottom of the wall
cabinets is a minimum distance of 16”and a maximum of 19”. Please be sure
the distance between your installed wall and base cabinets fall within this
range.

DeWils Industries, Inc.- July, 2008
Next, locate the wall studs using either an electronic or magnetic stud
finder or by measuring in 16”increments starting in a corner or next to a
doorway. Ordinarily, studs are located 16”apart (from the center point to
center point of the stud) in each wall. You can ensure you have located a
stud by pounding a small nail into the wall. If it is solid, you have found a
stud. Mark the studs with a pencil approximately 2”above the Base Level
Line so you can see where they are located when installing the cabinets.
Marking the walls within 2”of the countertop will ensure the marks are
concealed by the countertop backsplash.
The primary goal when installing base cabinetry is to make sure it is level with the Base Level Line. Starting with the cabinet
located in the corner use thin wooden shims (can be purchased at local lumberyard) placed under the cabinets as needed so
that the cabinet top is perfectly level with the Base Level Line. If necessary, place shims between the cabinet and the wall to
ensure a flush fit and that the cabinet is plumb. Check the cabinet with a carpenter’s level to be certain it is level and plumb.
Fasten the cabinet to the using 2 ½” wood screws (recommended) placed through the “nailing strip”on the upper inside
back of the cabinet. Re-check the cabinet with the level to make sure it is still level after screwing it to the wall. Moving
along either wall, place the next cabinet flush to the corner cabinet. Secure the cabinets together using C-clamps, making
sure the cabinet face frames are slush both top and bottom as well as along the front. Drill a pilot hole through eh face
frame of the second cabinet and into the first. Fasten the cabinet together with 2”to 2 ½” wood screws. Shim the second
cabinet until it is plumb and level, then secure it to the wall. Cut shims slush with the toe kick and conceal them with the toe
kick cover. Repeat this procedure following the floor plan provided until the cabinets are completely installed.
When installing a filler onto the rabbeted face frame of the cabinet,
place a ¼” piece of material behind the rabbet so that the filler can
be attached to a flat surface. Following this will provide a smooth,
solid base to which the filler can be attached and will eliminate any
“filler cupping”.
At the end of the cabinet run, a finished end panel is necessary to cover
the unfinished end of the cabinet. To install end panels on site, place the
panel flush to the back edge of the face frame of the cabinet. Scribe the
panel to the wall and make the cut. Each end panel is cut ¼” wider than
the actual depth of the cabinet so that you can scribe (cut) the panel to
match the wall thus eliminating any gaps. Next, cut out the space of the
toe kick, however be sure to allow an extra ¼” to cover the toe kick
cover. Fasten the end panel to the cabinet with carpenter’s glue and
finish nails or contact adhesive.

DeWils Industries, Inc.- July, 2008
Now that your cabinets are installed, the doors and
drawer fronts must be adjusted to ensure perfect
cabinetry lines. Beginning with the doors, loosen the
appropriate screw, adjust the door into position and
tighten the screw again. DeWils Designer series cabinets
uses two main types of hinges with the most prominent
one pictured at left. Repeat this until all doors are
adjusted properly.
Next, align the drawer fronts. The following two pages
will guide you through the proper alignment of the two
drawer systems offered by DeWils.
The countertops can be installed after the base cabinets have been installed
properly. Please note it is better to adjust the drawer head alignment before
installing the countertop. Depending on which type of countertop is selected,
there will be different installation instructions. Please consult your countertop
dealer or countertop instruction guide for details.
Regardless of which countertop in being installed, if installing the countertop
over a lazy susan or in areas where there is a void (such as an area in which the
cabinet is pulled away from the wall), adequate support must be provided
along the wall in the form of wood wall cleats. These cleats can be made out of
scrap material and fasted to the walls with wood screws. Attach the
countertop to the cleats for extra strength.
Construct cabinet supports from scrap material. These should be the same
height as the height from the top of the base cabinets to the Wall Level Line.
Beginning in the corner, place the supports under the first cabinet. Use
wooden shims to level and plumb the cabinet as needed. Fasten the cabinet
to the wall using 2 ½” wood screws (recommended) driven into studs. As you
tighten the screws, check the cabinet with a carpenter’s level to be sure the
cabinet is properly shimmed, and is plumb and level. Each cabinet under 24”
wide should receive four screws inside of the cabinet, two at the top and two
at the bottom. Cabinets that are larger than 24”should receive two screws
per stud. Follow directions in Step 5 to finish installing wall cabinets.
It is important to note that when installing a single cabinet or if there is only
one wall stud located behind the cabinet, place at least three screws through
the cabinet into the stud to ensure that the cabinet will have adequate rigidity
and will be attached to the wall with adequate strength.
This is an important safety point!
Once the cabinets are installed, check them again with a carpenter’s level to
be sure they are level and plumb, and that the doors and drawers fit properly.
If there are an tight drawers or doors which do not fit properly due to racking,
loosen the screws holding the cabinet in place and adjust it using shims as
needed so the torque on the cabinet is eliminated.

DeWils Industries, Inc.- July, 2008
Wood Drawer Box Adjustments
Tandem Installation, removal and adjustment information
DeWils reserves the right to make changes to products without notice

DeWils Industries, Inc.- July, 2008
Stainless Steel Drawer Adjustments
Installation, removal and adjustment
Side Adjustment –Grey Plastic Cam –Turn both cams equally
Cam Height Adjustment –Gold Color Screw - Loosen and move Drawer head, retighten
Tilt Adjustment For Larger Drawer Heads
Twist the chrome rods clock wise or counter clock
Note: drawer heads 8” and larger will have one rod per side. Drawer heads 12” and larger will have 2 rods per side
DeWils reserves the right to make changes to products without notice. July, 2008