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Factory SCX-60CF User manual

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SCX – 60CF
K 026 CONVERSION KIT
INSTRUCTION MANUAL
Version 1.0
SCX – 60CF CONVERSION KIT
TABLE OF CONTENTS
SC10 Disassembly……………………………………………………….... 6
Bag A – Transmission Assembly………………..……………………….. 12
Bag B – Nose Piece………………………………………………………... 22
Bag C – Front End ………………………………………………………… 24
Bag D – Transmission Installation…….…………………………………... 27
Bag E – Rear Suspension Installation……………………………………. 31
Bag F – Top Deck…………………………………………………………… 36
Bag G – Rear Shocks, Bumper, Body Mount………..………………… 38
Electronics Installation………………………………………………………. 42
Race Prep…………………………………………………………………….. 44
Tuning Section………………………………………………………………...47
SCX – 60CF ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
FIRST THINGS FIRST
A) ASSUMPTIONS These instructions assume several things:
1. You have at least some experience building R/C cars. These
instructions are not written for a first-timer.
2. You have the usual assortment of R/C tools.
3. You have a Team Associated SC 10 rolling chassis, any model.
If you do not meet all the assumptions above, please contact us
immediately. Contact information is on Page 5.
WE WANT YOU TO HAVE A PLEASANT EXPERIENCE
BUILDING THIS KIT, AND HOPE YOU HAVE MANY
PLEASURABLE DAYS DRIVING YOUR NEW SCX – 60CF.
Please contact us with the slightest problem. We want to help.
Talking with the Family is so much more fun than work.
B) We suggest you have a clean, well-lit work area with enough space to
simultaneously do three things: Work on the truck; Store sub-
assemblies for later use; Store parts no longer needed.
C) Before threading screws into any plastic part, tap holes with a 4-40 tap.
D) Many drivers use thread locking fluid when mounting aluminum parts
to the CF chassis. Others do not, and make a ritual of checking these
screws. Take your pick.
E) You will want to re-build many components, for example shocks, or to
disassemble some assemblies for inspection and cleaning. We
include no instructions for this – refer to your SC10 manual.
F) All references to right and left are from the viewpoint of the driver
sitting in the car facing forward.
G) Throughout this manual the names of many parts are followed by a
number in parenthesis. This is the X Factory or AE part number.
H) To photograph this manual, we assembled the truck several times. In
some photos, parts you have already assembled are “missing.” We
have done this deliberately so you may clearly see this particular step.
Follow the steps in order and you’ll get to the end quickly.
THANK YOU SPEEDY DAD
Chris “Speedy Dad” Krieg designed the SCX – 60CF, made & assembled the first
prototype (#0), engineered changes, made and assembled the second prototype
(#1), and gave us the C.A.D.
Chris, we hope you like how your baby has turned out!
CARE AND FEEDING OF CARBON FIBER
Throughout your Kit we have deliberately cut the bolt holes in the CF parts on the
small side for a good tight fit. Thread them up through and then give an extra
twist or two so they will be snug but free.
Carbon fiber is a laminate, much like plywood, and is produced similar to laying
up fiberglass. While the material is extremely strong and light, without proper
attention it can begin to delaminate, leaving a “frayed” appearance around the
edges. All carbon fiber parts used in your SCX – 60CF have been CNC machine
cut from flat sheets, so the edges are unfinished.
In a well ventilated area we suggest you run some fine-grit emery cloth or sand
paper around the edge of all your new carbon fiber pieces. Wear a dust mask
while you sand. Then, blow off the dust and run a small bead of C.A. glue, the
same stuff you use to glue tires, around the edge. Spread the glue out with a
hobby knife so it covers the entire edge of the part, but don’t let any drip on the
shiny front or back of the part. A little dab’ll do ya. This will seal the edges.
Every few weekends take a look at the carbon fiber parts and, if any fraying
appears, sand and glue to keep it to a minimum. Your CF parts will last many
years.
Some drivers who race on abrasive surfaces use a protective film under their
chassis to keep that carbon fiber looking great.
SOME IMPORTANT INFORMATION
We are not perfect. If you experience the slightest difficulty assembling your
SCX – 60CF, either because a part does not fit properly or because you have
difficulty with the instructions, please contact us immediately. Even if you figure
out what needs to be done, or make a modification that allows the part to fit, we
want to make changes that help the next person.
You are much more than a customer at X Factory. You have become a member
of a world-wide Family of R/C racing enthusiasts who love working on their cars,
trying new things, and helping others at the track. We communicate with our
Family constantly, and the Family gives us ideas every day for new products and
improvements on existing products. We welcome and encourage this input.
Thanks in advance for your help!
Contact us by: Web Site: www.XFactoryRC.com
FaceBook: www.facebook.com/XFactoryRC
E-Mail: youngchazz@gmail.com
Snail mail: X Factory R/C Racing Products
P.O. Box 2361
Whitehouse, Ohio 43571
Phone: 419-887-1787 (USA)
Some bags are assembled at NorWesco Industries, Tiffin, Ohio.
These instructions are available on our web site, www.xfactoryrc.com . The
photos are in color. In many instances, the color photos on the web are better
than the black and white in this printed manual.
THANK YOU FOR YOUR
CONFIDENCE IN THE SCX – 60CF!
X Factory’s Chief Engineer
Paul Sinclair (large arrow)
With his X – 60 (small arrow)
WELCOME TO THE
X FACTORY FAMILY!
SC 10 DISASSEMBLY
GENERAL
1) Remove the body and wheels. We suggest you store the body clips by re-
installing them in the mounts, and the wheel nuts by putting them back on
the axles. We will not insult you with photos for the first few instructions…
2) Remove the gear cover. You will not need this part or the screws. Take
the pinion off the motor, then unsolder and remove the motor. You will
need the motor and its mounting screws, and will want to save the pinion,
so we suggest you put the pinion away and put the screws back in the
motor for storage.
3) Remove the electronics. This includes the battery, servo, ESC, radio
receiver, and antenna tube. Save these parts for re-use. Do not remove
the servo mounts from the servo, simply remove the two flat head screws
from underneath the chassis. Save the screws by re-installing them into
the servo mounts. Disconnect the servo link from the steering bellcrank;
leave the link connected to the servo horn. Do not disconnect the horn
from the servo. The battery strap may be discarded. We suggest you
clean the servo tape off the electronics.
Your truck should now look like this photo:
FRONT END
4) Remove the nerf bars by unscrewing
the four button head screws from
beneath the chassis. Then use a flat
blade screw driver to pry up from the
bottom. Save the bars & screws for
re-use.
5) From beneath the chassis, remove
the four cap head screws which hold
the nerf bar to the front bumper.
Save the bar and screws for re-use.
If you put the screws a few turns back
into the bars, they’ll be right where
you need them later.
6) From beneath the chassis, remove the
two flat head screws which hold the
front bumper to the bulkhead. Save
the bumper and screws for re-use.
7) Still working beneath the chassis,
remove the two flat head screws
which hold the bulkhead to the
chassis. Save these screws for re-
use.
8) Remove the three flat-head screws and counter-sink washers which hold
the top plate to the chassis. The entire front end and steering assembly
should now come off the SC 10 as a unit. Save the assembly, screws &
washers for re-use.
REAR END
9) Remove the four aluminum cap head
screws that hold the rear body mount.
Keep the body mount, but the aluminum
screws will not be needed.
Note: We suggest you discard all aluminum
screws on the truck and replace them with
steel. Not only is the aluminum weak, but it
tends to break when threaded into carbon.
10) Remove the two flat head screws holding
the rear bumper to the shock tower.
11) Remove the long bolt and
captured nut that hold the two
pieces of the bumper together.
These will not be used.
12) Remove the long bolt (long
arrow) which goes through the
transmission and holds the
bumper brace. Loosen the three
remaining bolts (short arrows)
that go through the transmission
into the motor plate, and twist
out the bumper brace and
bumper assembly. The long bolt
will not be used, but leave the
three trans case bolts threaded
into the motor plate for now.
13) Remove the two button head screws
from the top and two flat head screws
from the bottom to take off the motor
guard. Discard the motor guard, but
hang onto the bolts.
14) Remove the rear shock assemblies. From each side, take out the bottom
bolt, then remove the plastic nut from the top. Save shocks and their bolts
& nuts. Don’t lose the aluminum bushing in the bottom shock eyelet!
15) Remove and save the upper shock mount
shock bolts and bushings.
16) Twist the camber link inner ball cups off their ball studs, then remove the
ball studs. Leave the camber links attached to the hub carriers; save the
ball studs and any washers that were under them.
17) Remove the rear hub carriers with the C.V.D. assemblies still in them and
the camber links attached to the hubs. Do this by removing the tiny 2-56
button head screw (left photo) and pushing the hinge pin out with an Allen
driver. Be very careful not to lose the shims on the hinge pins. Save
these entire assemblies for re-use: The hub carriers, shims, hinge pins,
and especially those pesky little screws.
TRANSMISSION
18) Remove the two cap
head screws that hold
the transmission in the
truck, and remove the
transmission, motor
plate, and slipper
assembly as a unit.