Factory SCX-60CF User manual

SCX – 60CF
K 026 CONVERSION KIT
INSTRUCTION MANUAL
Version 1.0
SCX – 60CF CONVERSION KIT

TABLE OF CONTENTS
SC10 Disassembly……………………………………………………….... 6
Bag A – Transmission Assembly………………..……………………….. 12
Bag B – Nose Piece………………………………………………………... 22
Bag C – Front End ………………………………………………………… 24
Bag D – Transmission Installation…….…………………………………... 27
Bag E – Rear Suspension Installation……………………………………. 31
Bag F – Top Deck…………………………………………………………… 36
Bag G – Rear Shocks, Bumper, Body Mount………..………………… 38
Electronics Installation………………………………………………………. 42
Race Prep…………………………………………………………………….. 44
Tuning Section………………………………………………………………...47

SCX – 60CF ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
FIRST THINGS FIRST
A) ASSUMPTIONS These instructions assume several things:
1. You have at least some experience building R/C cars. These
instructions are not written for a first-timer.
2. You have the usual assortment of R/C tools.
3. You have a Team Associated SC 10 rolling chassis, any model.
If you do not meet all the assumptions above, please contact us
immediately. Contact information is on Page 5.
WE WANT YOU TO HAVE A PLEASANT EXPERIENCE
BUILDING THIS KIT, AND HOPE YOU HAVE MANY
PLEASURABLE DAYS DRIVING YOUR NEW SCX – 60CF.
Please contact us with the slightest problem. We want to help.
Talking with the Family is so much more fun than work.
B) We suggest you have a clean, well-lit work area with enough space to
simultaneously do three things: Work on the truck; Store sub-
assemblies for later use; Store parts no longer needed.
C) Before threading screws into any plastic part, tap holes with a 4-40 tap.
D) Many drivers use thread locking fluid when mounting aluminum parts
to the CF chassis. Others do not, and make a ritual of checking these
screws. Take your pick.
E) You will want to re-build many components, for example shocks, or to
disassemble some assemblies for inspection and cleaning. We
include no instructions for this – refer to your SC10 manual.
F) All references to right and left are from the viewpoint of the driver
sitting in the car facing forward.
G) Throughout this manual the names of many parts are followed by a
number in parenthesis. This is the X Factory or AE part number.
H) To photograph this manual, we assembled the truck several times. In
some photos, parts you have already assembled are “missing.” We
have done this deliberately so you may clearly see this particular step.
Follow the steps in order and you’ll get to the end quickly.

THANK YOU SPEEDY DAD
Chris “Speedy Dad” Krieg designed the SCX – 60CF, made & assembled the first
prototype (#0), engineered changes, made and assembled the second prototype
(#1), and gave us the C.A.D.
Chris, we hope you like how your baby has turned out!
CARE AND FEEDING OF CARBON FIBER
Throughout your Kit we have deliberately cut the bolt holes in the CF parts on the
small side for a good tight fit. Thread them up through and then give an extra
twist or two so they will be snug but free.
Carbon fiber is a laminate, much like plywood, and is produced similar to laying
up fiberglass. While the material is extremely strong and light, without proper
attention it can begin to delaminate, leaving a “frayed” appearance around the
edges. All carbon fiber parts used in your SCX – 60CF have been CNC machine
cut from flat sheets, so the edges are unfinished.
In a well ventilated area we suggest you run some fine-grit emery cloth or sand
paper around the edge of all your new carbon fiber pieces. Wear a dust mask
while you sand. Then, blow off the dust and run a small bead of C.A. glue, the
same stuff you use to glue tires, around the edge. Spread the glue out with a
hobby knife so it covers the entire edge of the part, but don’t let any drip on the
shiny front or back of the part. A little dab’ll do ya. This will seal the edges.
Every few weekends take a look at the carbon fiber parts and, if any fraying
appears, sand and glue to keep it to a minimum. Your CF parts will last many
years.
Some drivers who race on abrasive surfaces use a protective film under their
chassis to keep that carbon fiber looking great.

SOME IMPORTANT INFORMATION
We are not perfect. If you experience the slightest difficulty assembling your
SCX – 60CF, either because a part does not fit properly or because you have
difficulty with the instructions, please contact us immediately. Even if you figure
out what needs to be done, or make a modification that allows the part to fit, we
want to make changes that help the next person.
You are much more than a customer at X Factory. You have become a member
of a world-wide Family of R/C racing enthusiasts who love working on their cars,
trying new things, and helping others at the track. We communicate with our
Family constantly, and the Family gives us ideas every day for new products and
improvements on existing products. We welcome and encourage this input.
Thanks in advance for your help!
Contact us by: Web Site: www.XFactoryRC.com
FaceBook: www.facebook.com/XFactoryRC
E-Mail: [e-mail]
Snail mail: X Factory R/C Racing Products
P.O. Box 2361
Whitehouse, Ohio 43571
Phone: [phone] (USA)
Some bags are assembled at NorWesco Industries, Tiffin, Ohio.
These instructions are available on our web site, www.xfactoryrc.com . The
photos are in color. In many instances, the color photos on the web are better
than the black and white in this printed manual.
THANK YOU FOR YOUR
CONFIDENCE IN THE SCX – 60CF!
X Factory’s Chief Engineer
Paul Sinclair (large arrow)
With his X – 60 (small arrow)
WELCOME TO THE
X FACTORY FAMILY!

SC 10 DISASSEMBLY
GENERAL
1) Remove the body and wheels. We suggest you store the body clips by re-
installing them in the mounts, and the wheel nuts by putting them back on
the axles. We will not insult you with photos for the first few instructions…
2) Remove the gear cover. You will not need this part or the screws. Take
the pinion off the motor, then unsolder and remove the motor. You will
need the motor and its mounting screws, and will want to save the pinion,
so we suggest you put the pinion away and put the screws back in the
motor for storage.
3) Remove the electronics. This includes the battery, servo, ESC, radio
receiver, and antenna tube. Save these parts for re-use. Do not remove
the servo mounts from the servo, simply remove the two flat head screws
from underneath the chassis. Save the screws by re-installing them into
the servo mounts. Disconnect the servo link from the steering bellcrank;
leave the link connected to the servo horn. Do not disconnect the horn
from the servo. The battery strap may be discarded. We suggest you
clean the servo tape off the electronics.
Your truck should now look like this photo:
FRONT END

4) Remove the nerf bars by unscrewing
the four button head screws from
beneath the chassis. Then use a flat
blade screw driver to pry up from the
bottom. Save the bars & screws for
re-use.
5) From beneath the chassis, remove
the four cap head screws which hold
the nerf bar to the front bumper.
Save the bar and screws for re-use.
If you put the screws a few turns back
into the bars, they’ll be right where
you need them later.
6) From beneath the chassis, remove the
two flat head screws which hold the
front bumper to the bulkhead. Save
the bumper and screws for re-use.
7) Still working beneath the chassis,
remove the two flat head screws
which hold the bulkhead to the
chassis. Save these screws for re-
use.

8) Remove the three flat-head screws and counter-sink washers which hold
the top plate to the chassis. The entire front end and steering assembly
should now come off the SC 10 as a unit. Save the assembly, screws &
washers for re-use.
REAR END
9) Remove the four aluminum cap head
screws that hold the rear body mount.
Keep the body mount, but the aluminum
screws will not be needed.
Note: We suggest you discard all aluminum
screws on the truck and replace them with
steel. Not only is the aluminum weak, but it
tends to break when threaded into carbon.
10) Remove the two flat head screws holding
the rear bumper to the shock tower.

11) Remove the long bolt and
captured nut that hold the two
pieces of the bumper together.
These will not be used.
12) Remove the long bolt (long
arrow) which goes through the
transmission and holds the
bumper brace. Loosen the three
remaining bolts (short arrows)
that go through the transmission
into the motor plate, and twist
out the bumper brace and
bumper assembly. The long bolt
will not be used, but leave the
three trans case bolts threaded
into the motor plate for now.
13) Remove the two button head screws
from the top and two flat head screws
from the bottom to take off the motor
guard. Discard the motor guard, but
hang onto the bolts.
14) Remove the rear shock assemblies. From each side, take out the bottom
bolt, then remove the plastic nut from the top. Save shocks and their bolts
& nuts. Don’t lose the aluminum bushing in the bottom shock eyelet!

15) Remove and save the upper shock mount
shock bolts and bushings.
16) Twist the camber link inner ball cups off their ball studs, then remove the
ball studs. Leave the camber links attached to the hub carriers; save the
ball studs and any washers that were under them.
17) Remove the rear hub carriers with the C.V.D. assemblies still in them and
the camber links attached to the hubs. Do this by removing the tiny 2-56
button head screw (left photo) and pushing the hinge pin out with an Allen
driver. Be very careful not to lose the shims on the hinge pins. Save
these entire assemblies for re-use: The hub carriers, shims, hinge pins,
and especially those pesky little screws.
TRANSMISSION
18) Remove the two cap
head screws that hold
the transmission in the
truck, and remove the
transmission, motor
plate, and slipper
assembly as a unit.

19) Remove the 5-40 nut which secures the
slipper assembly, and pull off the nut,
spring retainer, spring, outer slipper
plate, outer slipper pad, spur gear, inner
slipper pad, and inner slipper plate. Put
away the spur gear, then save all the
other slipper parts for re-use.
20) Remove the three long cap head screws (long arrows) from the
transmission and take off the motor plate. Then remove the last shorter
cap head screw (short arrow), and separate the transmission case halves.
You may discard the motor plate; save the bolts and washers for re-use.
21) Remove the transmission components. The
case will not be needed, but you will need the
top shaft and spacer, two 3/16” X 3/8” bearings,
idler gear with its two 3/16” X 3/8” bearings and
shaft, and the differential assembly. The
outdrive bearings will not be retained.
That’s it for disassembly. Now let’s build a really dialed race truck!

BAG A
TRANSMISSION
We’ve got all the parts in front of us, so let’s build the tranny.
BALL DIFFERENTIAL
The SC10 diff uses metric outdrives and the X Factory 4-Gear transmission uses
the U.S. measurement, so we’ll re-build the whole thing now.
A1) Hold the outdrive with the T-nut (AE6575) in one hand and insert the Allen
driver through the white protector cap (AE6575) and into the head of the
diff thrust bolt (AE6573). Unscrew the bolt. Use the T-nut to push the bolt
through the diff and out. The white cap will come with it; set it aside for re-
use. Make sure the thrust bearing stays on the diff bolt – and don’t lose
any of the six little balls! Take the thrust balls (AE6574) and washers
(AE6573) off the bolt. Clean the balls, washers, and bolt, and set them all
aside with the cap
.
A2) Take the rest of the diff apart. Be
sure to remove the T-nut and spring
(AE6582) from the male outdrive.
One diff bearing (XF 6204) should
stay in the diff gear. The other may
fall out or it may stay in the female
outdrive. Whatever…
A3) Remove the 12 diff balls (XF6500) and bearing
from the gear (AE7664). Clean the balls and
gear and set them aside to air dry. Clean and
re-lube the two diff bearings, using just a drop of
good bearing oil. Set the spring and T-nut aside
with the gear, balls, and bearings. This leaves
the outdrives in front of you. Remove the diff
rings and clean them. Our second diff bearing
wanted to stay in the outdrive, so we removed it
now. The rings will be used in step A4 below. Metric outdrives can be
discarded.

A4) Check your diff rings for wear. If they’re not new, there will be a thin line
on the face of each one where the balls run. Darker line = more wear.
You can use both sides of the rings, so if one side has not been used, flip
them over. Carbide diff balls like X Factory’s #6500 are much harder than
the rings, so one set of balls should last through several sets of rings.
Many X Factory drivers prefer B Fast diff rings for smoother, longer-lasting
diffs. Take the new outdrives (AE7667 & 7668) from Bag A and on each
one put a small drop of diff lube on one part of the edge where the ring will
go (left photo). This grease does not lubricate, it merely holds the ring on
during assembly. Grease attracts dirt (bad) so use as little as possible
here. Wipe off any excess grease (right photo).
A5) Re-install the diff balls and one diff
bearing into the diff gear. Put a small
amount of diff lube on one side of
each of the balls. We used too much
in the photo so you can see the lube.
You need surprisingly little lube, and
excess is just thrown off inside the
transmission case. Many X Factory
Team drivers use B-Fast Pro Lube.
A6) Install the second diff bearing into the female
outdrive.

A7) Install the spring and T-nut into the male outdrive. Be certain the lugs on
the T-nut engage properly in the slots of the outdrive. Set aside until A10.
A8) Check the thrust washers for wear. They wear just as the diff rings do,
and are also reversible. Stand the diff bolt up on end and install one
washer on it with a new side up (left photo). Put some thrust grease all
around the exposed surface of the washer and place the six thrust balls on
the washer (center photo). We use a magnetized screw driver to pick up
and place the balls. Then slide the other washer over the bolt, good side
down (right photo). Don’t use too much grease here – the assembly must
be well lubricated BUT excess grease cannot escape and can cause the
diff to malfunction! So after the inner washer is installed run your finger
around the outside of the bearing assembly to remove any excess grease.
A9) Put the thrust bolt, with thrust bearing, on your Allen driver, and install the
bolt into the female outdrive (center photo). Leave the driver engaged in
the bolt through step A 10. Now put the diff gear, with balls and bearing,
over the bolt so the diff balls contact the diff ring (right photo).

A10) Now slide the male outdrive from step
A7 into the female outdrive assembly
from step A9. Slide the diff bolt
through the male ourdrive and screw
it into the T-nut. Do not tighten very
much yet. See A11 below.
A11) As the bolt begins to tighten, stop every revolution or two, remove the
wrench, and rotate the two outdrives at the same time in opposite
directions while pushing them together (left photo). This helps seat the
balls, rings, and thrust bearing while it distributes the grease. Keep
tightening and rotating until there is a bit of tension on the bolt. Now put
an Allen wrench through the slots of each outdrive, hold the wrenches still,
and rotate the diff gear, Continue tightening the diff bolt, twisting the
outdrives and checking with the wrenches, until the gear will no longer
rotate at all between the outdrives. (right photo). As soon as the gear is
driving the outdrives, stop right there. Be sure the outdrives will still rotate
against each other. This will be a starting point for diff break-in and final
adjustment.
CLEAN & INSPECT
A12) We suggest you clean and inspect the rest
of the SC10 transmission parts at this time.
If you re-lube the bearings, make sure the
outside is clean and dry so they do not
attract dirt. You need the following items
from your SC10: the assembled diff with
both outdrive bearings (XF6903), the idler
gear (AE9360) with its shaft (AE9361) &
two 3/16 X 3/8 bearings (XF6202), and the
top shaft (AE9601) with its spacer (AE9602)
& two 3/16 X 3/8 bearings (XF6200). Replace parts as necessary.

ASSEMBLE THE SCX – 60CF TRANSMISSION
A13) Remove the transmission case
(XF5001) from Bag A and separate the
two halves. Note the small round ejector
pin bosses on the mounting tabs. You
may wish to file these flat for ease of
installation in the truck.
A14) Install a 3/16” X 3/8” rubber sealed bearing
(XF6200) all the way into the top shaft
boss in the left transmission case half
(short arrow) and a 3/8” X 5/8” rubber
sealed bearing in the boss for the
differential. The Team pushes them in
with the shank of an Allen driver or, better
yet, with a socket. See Inst. A16.
A15) Make sure the spacer (AE9602) is on the top shaft (AE9601) and slide the
shaft with spacer through the bearing in the transmission case. If your top
shaft is worn, you will want to try our one-piece steel top shaft (XF5210)
made for us by M.I.P. No more spacer to lose and longer wearing too!

A16) Gather together the idler gear from the SC10 (AE9360) along with its 3/16”
X 3/8” bearings (XF6202) and shaft (XF5201) along with the same parts
from bag A so you have two gears, two shafts, and four bearings. Install a
bearing into each side of both idler gears. Team drivers do it by pushing
on the outer race with a socket.
A17) Slide an idler shaft through the bearings in each idler gear, then place the
shafts in their bosses in the left transmission half. Be certain all gears
mesh properly and the transmission turns smooth and free.
A18) Install the diff in the left
transmission case bearing,
ensuring it meshes properly with
the idler gear. The head of the
diff bolt should be up. Again, the
transmission should be free and
smooth.

A19) Install the remaining 3/16” X 3/8” rubber seal
bearing and 3/8” X 5/8” bearing into their
bosses in the right transmission case half.
(long arrows) There is a small hole in the
case where the top shaft bearing goes so you
can use a hex wrench to push out the bearing.
Some drivers like to run a small bead of
inexpensive grease around the mating surface
of the right transmission case half. (short
arrows) This grease is to seal out dirt, not to
lubricate anything, so be thorough but don’t
over-do it. Other Team drivers have
discovered that the X Factory 4-Gear
transmission case seals so tightly that they do
not use the grease. It’s your choice.
A20) Some Team drivers put a small glob of grease on the diff gear to lubricate
the transmission. That little glob will be spread throughout all the gears as
the trans turns, so one little one is all that’s needed. Other Team drivers
use no grease, saying the trans is freer that way. Pay your money and
take your pick. Carefully put the two halves of the transmission together,
sliding the outdrive through its bearing, the two idler shafts into their
bosses, and the top shaft into its bearing. Make sure everything rotates
very free and smooth. No hitches, no slow-downs. Now is the best time
to fix any problem. Wipe any excess grease from the outside of the case.

A21) Install the 4-40 X 3/8” cap head bolt (XF6001) in
the lower corner of the trans case, just finger
tight for now to hold things together.
A22) The X Factory 4-Gear motor plate (XF1232) has two “extra” holes (left
photo) which are useful to install the optional ES008 heatsink and fan.
Arrows in the right photo point to the three holes that attach the motor
plate to the transmission. Team drivers put a drop of threadlock now in
these three holes. Don’t put the threadlock on the bolts as it will come off
going through the transmission.
A23) Insert the three 4-40 X 1” screws
through the three holes that go into the
motor plate and attach the motor plate
(arrows). The center rear hole will not
be used on the SCX – 60CF due to a
clearance issue. Use a crossing
pattern to tighten all four trans bolts to
equal tightness. Check one last time
that the transmission rotates free and
smooth. This is your last chance!
1
4
3
2

SLIPPER INSTALLATION
A24) Install a slipper plate onto the top shaft, flat side
out. The flats inside the plate will key to the flats
on the shaft.
A25) Put a slipper pad on the 78 tooth spur gear supplied in your Kit – the
larger one from the SC10 will not fit. (left & center photos). The hex of the
pad fits into the molded hex in the gear. Now turn the transmission so the
top shaft with slipper plate is facing down. Hold the plate on with your
thumb and slide the spur gear, pad side up, onto the shaft so the pad &
gear are tight against the plate. Keep pressure on the spur so the pad
stays in its hex until step A27 below. This
is so much easier to do now than when the
transmission is in the truck!
A26) Turn the transmission back over so the top shaft is pointing up, but be
certain the slipper pad remains engaged in the spur and the spur is tight
against the plate. Put the second slipper pad in its place on the spur and
slide the second slipper plate, flat side down, onto the shaft.